Vorpal Robotics Wiki - User contributions [en]

Max The Megapod Assembly Instructions

2026-02-25T20:56:44Z

Vorpalwiki: /* Notes on Sourcing Parts Yourself */

==IMPORTANT NOTES==
* This is an experimental project.
* It is not for first time robot builders. It contains powerful motors that can cause injury, and uses powerful batteries that require caution. If you are not very familiar with safety precautions for building large robots this project is not for you, build smaller robots instead.
* Never allow this project to sit idle with power on for more than a few minutes. Turn off power if it is not going to be immediately used. Holding the robot in a stress position for long periods of time may cause servo motors to burn out. Remove both batteries in the robot when not using. Never leave powerful batteries in the robot when not in use.
* At public demonstrations, keep children away from the robot when it is operating. When it is not operating, removing the main robot battery is the safest course at public demonstrations because you will not have to worry about leaving the robot unattended and having a spectator turn it on in your absence. This robot is large enough to cause injury and must be monitored closely when interacting with the public.
* Make sure the standing position of the robot is adjusted using the "trim" feature (see gamepad documentation) so that the stance is a bit on the "high" side to minimize stress on the motors when the robot is standing still, which can help prevent overheating. Failure to do so may cause premature failure of the servos. A good test is to see if the robot can maintain the standing position with power shut off. If it can, then the standing position will not be stressing the motors.
* If motors overheat, shut down power immediately and remove the large robot battery. If motors "smoke" remove the entire robot to outdoors to let it vent and do not use again until affected servos are replaced.

==BILL OF MATERIALS (BOM) FOR MAX THE MEGAPOD==
===Notes on Sourcing Parts Yourself===
* These instructions written at the time when we offered kits, but we no longer stock this kit. If you are sourcing your own parts, please be aware of the following additional information:
**You need to build the power distribution connector assembly. For diagrams see [[Max The Megapod Battery/Switch Construction]]. This will take about 2 hours of soldering work.
**Also see important information on that page if you are sourcing your own BEC.
**If you are sourcing your own Bluetooth modules, please be aware that you will need to configure them to auto-pair and to have a UART speed of 38400 BAUD. Every module brand's firmware is a bit different so it's not possible for us to give you universal instructions on how to program them. We assume that if you source your own parts you are familiar with how to configure Bluetooth modules using AT-commands. (You can find tutorials online or videos on youtube, but like we said, different modules may not exactly match instructions you will find so be prepared to fiddle around a bit). Please do not ask our customer support for help on this topic, as the way these modules are programmed continues to change over time and we can't keep up with all the details any longer! There are websites devoted to helping people program bt modules and those would be a better place to turn.
**If you are sourcing your own Arduino Nano modules, you will need to flash the robot and gamepad code on them. You can find the code at the [https://github.com/vorpalrobotics/VorpalHexapod Vorpal Hexapod Repo on Github]. Note: there is no difference in software between the large and small versions of the hexapod.
* Please be very careful about substitutions. You might think you can substitute cheaper parts for the ones specified here. Don't bet on it. Walking robots are extremely difficult to design and we've chosen each part for a good reason. For example, if you try to substitute cheaper servos you are very likely to find that they don't provide enough torque for the robot to stand up, or they wear out within minutes due to being overstressed. If you substitute a different battery voltage, you'll either fry the servos or they won't have enough torque. It took 1000 hours of work to design the smaller hexapod on which this one is based, then another 500 hours to get the big version working well.

=== ROBOT BOM ===
[[File:Choking-Hazard-Image.jpg|right|350px]]
[[File:PinchPoint-Warning.JPG|right|350px]]
* ''Electronics:''
** Passive Piezo Buzzer module and 3 wire cable (see image) [[File:Passive-Piezo-Buzzer-Module.jpg|right|thumb|Passive Piezo Buzzer Module]]
** Arduino Nano, 5V, 16 mHz, ATMEGA328 or similar (marked RM in our kit to indicate it is pre-loaded with megapod robot software)
** Rotary potentiometer, 10K Ohms, 6mm shaft diameter, with 3 wires pre-soldered. Also, matching dial cap and nut. If you are self-sourcing see our instructions: [[Max The Megapod Battery/Switch Construction]]
** 1 x HC05 BlueTooth Module with 4 x F-F jumper wires for making connections (Note: the HC05 has six pins but only four are used in this project. Also, this is in the Gamepad Parts bag if you purchase our kit.)
** 1 x Servo Controller module (Adafruit 16-channel 12-bit I2C PWM/Servo driver or Adafruit clone) with F-F jumper wires for making connections, plus 1 two-pin shunt tying V+ to VCC
** 12 x MG958 servo motors and associated servo horns (you will only use the single-arm horn). NOTE: our kits come with one extra servo as a spare, there are 13 in the kit but only 12 are needed. We recommend 25T size metal horns for the knee servos (the ones that insert into the legs). We provide six metal horns with our kits as of November 2019. The plastic horns will wear out on the knee servos after about 4 to 8 hours of use and their splines will strip.
** 1 x Power distribution wiring harness with DPST on/off switch, Fuse, Tamiya battery connector, 3A 5V BEC, and servo extension connectors. If you are self-sourcing see our wiring instructions: [[Max The Megapod Battery/Switch Construction|Circuit Diagrams]].
* ''3D Printed Parts:''
** 3 Robot Base Parts and bottom plate to hold the parts together.
** 3 Robot Base Covers (used to enclose wiring inside the Base).
** 4 Cap parts which screw together to form the cap of the robot.
** 6 x Legs
** 12 x Servo Stops. These parts hold the servos in their compartments both in the base and the legs.
** 12 x Leg Hinge halves with Leg Hinge Rings. The rings stop layer separation issues under stress.
** 1 x Electronics Caddy to hold nano and servo controller
** 2 x Eye/glasses Decoration
* Screws and Fasteners
** 12 x button head screw, M3 x 12mm long with M3 toothed lock washers (for servo horns)
** 6 x #6-32 x 7/8" socket head screws (to fasten together "bowl" of base and cap parts).
** 3 x #6-32 x 5/8" socket head screws (to fasten top of cap onto cap bowl)
** 12 x #6-32 x 1.5" socket head cap screws for securing servos in their sockets.
** 2 x #6-32 1” socket head screw (for accessory port)
** 2 x #6-32 0.75" socket head screw (for accessory port)
** 2 x #6 wingnut (for accessory port)
** 19 x #6 nut
** 19 x #6 toothed lock washer
** 9 x #6-32 7/8” socket head screws with lock washers (for fastening Base and Cap sections together)
* ''Miscellaneous:''
** 12 x 608 Skate Bearings
** 8 x 18mm diameter ceramic magnet, approximately 5mm thick, north pole marked. 6 are for robot top, 2 for eye/glasses decorations
** 1 x T handle hex driver, 2mm, for button head screws.
** 1 x T handle hex driver, 7/64" for socket head screws.
* Tools not included in the kit:
** Needle nose pliers are useful for holding the nuts while assembling BASE and CAP parts.
** Slip-pliers are useful for forcing skate bearings into their press-fit locations on the Leg Hinges
** Hot glue gun and glue sticks for securing magnets. You can also use cyanoacrylate glue (i.e. "super glue") or any glue that works on both plastic and metal.
** If you have an electric screwdriver this will make assembly of the servo stops much faster. You would need a 7/64" hex key attachment.
=== Batteries (not included in kit)===
Three batteries are needed for this project:
* Max uses a main battery pack consisting of a five-cell NIMH battery pack with a nominal voltage of 6.0 volts, a minimum of 4000 mAh capacity, 18 gauge or thicker wires, and a full size male Tamiya connector.
* Max also uses a secondary 9v battery through a 5V regulator to drive the electronics (Arduino, Bluetooth module, Servo driver, etc).
* A second 9v battery is needed for the gamepad.

We recommend rechargeable 9v batteries, they can be NIMN, LI-ON, or NICAD.

Make sure you have a compatible charger for all rechargeable batteries.

A main battery pack we have used with success is this one: [https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003WTSPHG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Dynamite 6.0v 5100 mAh NIMH Battery] although many others are available on the market. NOTE: we do not recommend going beyond 7500 mAh capacity as the weight of the battery will start to be too large past that point.

The battery specs should confirm that the main pack can output 5 amps continuously and can handle spikes to 10amps on an intermittent basis (5 seconds maximum). Most NIMH batteries at 4000 mAh or more will fulfill this requirement.

Note: we do not recommend substituting LI-ON batteries for the main pack on the Megapod, as they often cannot supply enough amps or will overheat under too high a load. We do not recommend NICAD batteries for environmental reasons. NIMH is really the perfect battery type for this application.

Many hobby and RC suppliers have cable converters to go from Tamiya connectors to other types (cross, XT60, etc.) so it is possible to use NIMH batteries with other kinds of connector if you can locate or construct a suitable adapter cable. If you construct your own battery conversion cable you must be extremely careful to do it properly, as batteries can be dangerous if connected improperly.

If you solder your own battery connectors observe extreme caution as NIMH batteries can discharge dangerously high amps. You are better off buying a battery with the right connector unless you are very familiar with soldering your own battery packs and understand the safety requirements for doing so.

=== GAMEPAD ===
The gamepad for Max The Megapod is identical to the gamepad for Vorpal The Hexapod. See instructions for the gamepad here: [[Vorpal_The_Hexapod_Building_Instructions#Building_the_Gamepadd|Vorpal The Hexapod Gamepad Assembly instructions]]

==Printing the Plastic Parts==

This section assumes you have basic familiarity with 3D printing and 3D printing terminology. If not, you might want to reference online materials such as youtube videos or information from your 3D printer manufacturer before attempting this project.

===OBTAINING THE STL FILES===
We have posted the STL files our public dropbox folder: [http://tinyurl.com/VORPALFILES VORPAL FILES]. Go to the STL folder, then the GAMEPAD and MEGAPOD folders have the files you need. (The same gamepad is shared among all our hexapod projects).

Please post your builds to places like Thingiverse, pictures to FaceBook, Instagram, etc., and videos of your robot to YouTube! This will help us grow and continue having the resources creating cool new projects for our community.

===MINIMUM PRINTER REQUIREMENTS===
*The bed size should be at least 200mm cube (about 8 inches cube). The largest parts are the megapod Base-1, Base-2, and Base-3 parts, so it is the limiting factor on bed size.
*A heated bed is strongly recommended, especially if you are printing in ABS.
*An enclosure is recommended, especially if printing in ABS.
===AMOUNT OF PLASTIC FILAMENT===
* About 2.5 kg of plastic are needed to print the entire robot and gamepad. This does not include accessories like Joust attachments, etc.
* The amount of plastic used does depend on plastic type and exact print settings though, so your mileage may vary.
===RECOMMENDED PLASTICS===
*ABS, PETG, and PLA all work well. However, because there are some very large parts, ABS may cause you some warping issues if you don't have a heated bed, enclosure, and a printer tuned well for large parts. PLA is generally easier and has fewer issues with corners peeling off the print bed.
*We use eSun PLA PRO for this project and for us it works very well. PLA PRO is a little more flexible and stronger than typical PLA. We have no problems with warping even on the largest parts.
*This project requires less flexibility than the smaller Vorpal The Hexapod project, so ABS is less required for this project.
===PRINTING TIPS===
This project has been finely tuned to make it easy to 3D print. No supports are required for any of the parts (there is a support built into the models for the CAP parts). In some cases you may want to use brims or rafts to help parts adhere to the print surface.

There is some significant bridging with some spans up to 30mm (1.2"). It is important to tune your printer and make sure it can handle the bridging before attempting the large parts. A little sagging is ok and a drip or two can be easily removed, but you need decent ability to bridge. There are bridge testing and calibration models posted on sites like Thingiverse that may help you tune your printer before trying the big parts.

====PRINT SETTINGS====
We print using the following settings on a Lulzbot TAZ 6 with 0.5mm nozzle:
* 0.4 layer thickness (or whatever layer thickness is the largest that will work on your printer)
* 2mm walls (i.e. four perimeters for a 0.5mm nozzle)
* 1.6 mm top and bottom (i.e. four layers at 0.4mm layer height)
* 25% infill
* You can print with thinner layers if your printer does not support 0.4mm layers or if you want a more refined look, it will just take longer. If you have a large nozzle (0.8mm or more) you should be able to go with bigger layers and save a lot of print time. Please report your findings to us at support@vorpalrobotics.com so we can advise future Makers of this project.
====BRIMS AND RAFTS====
* Brims or rafts are recommended for the following hexapod parts: Base, Legs, Cap. This ensures proper bed retention to avoid warping. These parts have relatively little contact area with the print bed, or have certain sections with little contact.
*If you have a very well dialed-in printer and have no issues with warping or corners curling up during prints, you can try them without brims. We don't use brims on anything but we've printed thousands of parts and we keep our printers very well tuned all the time with weekly maintenance and adjustments.
*These parts are large so if you don't use brims and things don't work out you might kill half a roll of plastic ... so maybe just use brims, it only adds a few minutes of cleanup time.
* Brims/rafts are not recommended on any of the other parts. The other parts generally have enough bed surface contact that they will print fine without brims. Your mileage may vary however and it is recommended that you keep a close eye on the first few layers of the print to make sure everything is sticking properly.
* We personally prefer brims over rafts (such as available in Cura and Simplify3D) as they are easy to remove and leave a clean look.
====POST PRINT====
Other than removing brims/rafts and the occasional drip, there is not any special post-processing required after printing. Some of the big bridges might seem a little saggy but generally speaking there's enough tolerance that this won't cause an issue. The biggest bridges are mostly hidden inside the robot so they won't affect cosmetics.

====PRO TIPS====
*Do routine maintenance on your printer before printing the big parts: lubricate rods and lead screws, check bed leveling, replace nozzle if worn, do a calibration print, clean your print surface, etc. A few minutes of preparation will help you nail these prints and make a project you can be very proud of!
*Print the large parts (Base, Cap) at the ''start'' of new spools. The last thing you want is to run out of filament 95% of the way through a big part.
*Print the smallest parts (servo stops, hinge rings, gamepad drawer) near the end of a spool.
*If you have a large format printer, it is tempting to kick off all three Base parts at once and let it run overnight. We would recommend against that--the chances of killing an entire spool of filament due to an overnight power hit or other failure is just not worth it. Take your time, do the big parts one by one. One or two during the day, one overnight. It will all get done soon enough. An extra couple of days won't matter in the long run.

== Building the Robot ==

You will need the following tools:
*Included in the kit:
** 2mm hex key. A 5/64 inch hex key will also work. This is in the Megapod Parts bag.
** 7/64 hex key at least 6" long (150mm). It needs to be long enough to reach screws through access holes in the Base and Cap. This is in the Megapod Parts Bag.
*Not included in the kit:
** Optional: A marker that can write on dark plastic and still be seen, such as Sharpie Metallic or Sharpie Oil markers (white and yellow work great on dark colored plastic, black or blue work well on light colored plastic). This can be used to make raised lettering on the robot and gamepad more visible.
** Optional: Needle nose pliers can be helpful for holding nuts in place while tightening screws.
** Optional: Slip-joint pliers can be helpful for forcing the skate bearings into their press-fit locations on the Leg Hinges
** Optional: An electric screwdriver with a 7/64" hex key attachment will greatly speed up the process of locking the servos in place using the servo stop parts. There are 12 long screws to insert. Do yourself a favor, electric screwdrivers are not expensive these days and are very handy.

===IMPORTANT WARNING: POWERFUL SERVOS MAY INJURE YOU===
The motors on Max the Megapod are very powerful compared to the smaller Vorpal the Hexapod project. It is possible for the leg motions to pinch fingers or even possibly break fingers or cause other injuries. When powering on the Megapod you must keep fingers clear of places where the legs/hips can come together. In case of electrical issues the legs may move unexpectedly. Turning the power off will release the motors. Never let small children play with the megapod or grab at it when it's walking or moving.

If the robot is moving in an out of control manner, use a pencil, book, or rod to hit the power switch, which is large and easy to turn off.

You must at all times take standard precautions that are typical with large robotic projects.

If you are building your own electrical system please do not skimp by skipping adding the fuse to the circuit. This project may draw significant amperage and fuse protection is required.

===Step by Step Instructions===
====STEP 1: Insert accessory port screws in the chassis====
This is easier to do before the Base is assembled into a single part.
* Insert 1" #6-32 socket head screws in the bottom two holes of the accessory port with the head of the screw inside the hexapod, then secure using lock washers and nuts outside. Repeat for the top two accessory holes with shorter 3/4" #6-32 socket head screws. Two wingnuts go on the two lower screws, these will be used to secure accessories such as the Jousting Lance.
<gallery mode=packed>
File:Accessory-Port-Diagram-V2.JPG|The accessory port is considered the "front" of the robot.
File:Accessory-Port-Screws.JPG|Longer socket head screws go on the bottom. Do not overtighten the nuts.
File:Wing-Nuts-Installed.JPG|After installing the nuts, put the wingnuts on the bottom screws. They'll be used later to secure accessories.
</gallery>

====STEP 2: Build the BASE====
* STEP 1A: Take the three outer parts of the base (STL files: Base-1, Base-2, Base-3) and arrange them to form the "bowl" of the base. Make sure the servo numbers are in the right order as you move clockwise around the three parts! It's possible to assemble them in the wrong order if you don't check.
* STEP 1B: There are matching screw holes positioned on little rectangular outcroppings on the inside of the top ring, these require screws to bind the three parts together. Use three 7/8 inch socket head screws, toothed lock washers, and nuts to secure them. There is an access hole in the rim of the robot to allow the hex key to turn the screw. You may need to hold the nut in place using needle-nose pliers. Repeat for all three sections.
<gallery mode=packed heights=250>
File:Base-Exploded-View.JPG|Line up the three main pieces of the base, ensuring the servo numbers are in order.
File:Access-Hole-In-Base.jpg|Small access holes are strategically placed around the base so the hex key can turn the screws to secure the three base pieces.
File:Securing-Base-Sections.jpg|Use the access hole in the Base parts to secure screws that bind the three base parts together.
File:Megapod-Foam-Squares.jpg|Peel the backing off the foam squares that came with the kit and attach them to the bottom of the base. Stack them on top of each other.
</gallery>
* STEP 1C: Take the Base Bottom part and place it inside the base. There is a nub in one place that will only allow it to be inserted in one orientation. Use 5/8" screws in the outer ring of holes in the bottom to secure it to the base. The head of the screw should be on the outside of the robot and nuts should secure the screws on the inside. NOTE: There are six outer ring holes, however you only need three of them (one in each base section) to secure the robot. Early versions of the kit only had three 5/8" screws.
* STEP 1D: Take the foam squares that came in your kit and stick them on the bottom of the robot. (Build up several layers, they stick to each other.) These foam pads will reduce the shock and stress on the robot when it goes down to the floor on certain dance moves. Without these pads, the robot leg servos and body structure may undergo too much stress.

====STEP 3: Install the electrical system in the base====
* STEP 3A: Take the potentiometer and remove its dial cap, then unscrew the nut and set these items aside for now (don't lose them). Push the potentiometer shaft from the inside of the chassis into the hole that is surrounded by the markings "STOP", "TST", etc. The wires coming out of the potentiometer should be pointing down. The little metal nub sticking out of the potentiometer should match with a tiny rectangular hole that is near the marking "TST". Put the retaining nut on the potentiometer, hand tighten first and then give it just another half turn or so with pliers if desired. Turn the knob all the way counter-clockwise, then insert the knob so it points to the letter "O" in the word "STOP".
* STEP 3B: Take the large DPST on/off switch (which is attached to the battery holder and power distribution assembly) and thread the switch wires from the inside through the gap at the bottom of the switch hole (see picture). Carefully push the wires one by one through the slot below the switch hole. Once all the wires are through, push the switch into the switch hole. It should be oriented with the "1" to the right. Press carefully into the hole, it should snap firmly in place.
** If the fit is too tight to get the switch in place, lightly sanding or filing the hole to make it a tiny bit larger should work.
<gallery mode=packed heights=200>
File:Switch-Insert-1.jpg|Thread the switch and its wires through the Base, there is an opening under the switch hole.
File:Switch-Insert-2.jpg|Bring the wires up through the small gap below the switch hole. Be careful with the large wires, they require some pressure or some flexing of the plastic to get through.
File:Switch-Insert-3.jpg|All the wires are now coming through the switch hole.
File:Switch-Insert-4.jpg|Press the switch into the hole, it should snap into place. The "1" should be to the right.
</gallery>

====STEP 4: Insert servos in the chassis====
* Next, insert the servo into the chassis as shown in the diagrams below. As you insert the servo into the chassis, slowly press it straight into place until it fully seats. Use a servo stopper and one 1.5 inch #6 socket screw to secure the servos in place. Use the hole nearest to the front of the servo. NOTE: There are two holes in the Servo Stop but we have found that one screw is enough to hold it. The second hole could be used if you find that the plastic you use tears through the hole. We have not seen this but we added the second hole just in case.
<gallery mode=packed heights=250>
File:Servo-in-Base-2.jpg|Insert each servo with the wire coming out away from the robot as shown here. Press in completely.
File:Servo-in-Base-3.jpg|Insert a servo stopper (shown in red) and secure with one 1.5" screw in the hole nearest the front (the servo shaft and horn is in the front). Thread the wire into the body of the robot through the hole as shown.
</gallery>

====STEP 5: Insert the servos in the Legs====
The technique is very similar to inserting the servo into the chassis.
*Insert the servo straight into the leg socket so that the wire is coming out of the servo facing away from the plastic leg and the face of the servo with the shaft and servo horn goes into the open faced side of the leg, as shown in the diagram.
*Secure the servo in place with a servo stopper and one 1.5 inch screw as you did with the hip servos in the base. NOTE: There are two holes in the stopper but we have found that one screw is enough to hold it. The second hole could be used if you find that the plastic you use tears through the hole. We have not seen this but we added the second hole just in case.
*The servos in the legs are called the "knee" servos. Each leg has a higher number on it, this is the knee number, they run from 6 to 11. Again, write this number on the black connector at the end of the servo wire. PRO TIP: For 6 and 9, underline the number so you don't read them upside down!
<gallery mode=packed heights=200>
File:Servo-Insert-Leg-v2.png|Insert Servos in Legs
File:Servo-Leg-Inserted-v2.png|Push until fully seated
File:Servo-Stopper-In-Leg.jpg|Use the servo stopper and two screws to lock the servo in place
</gallery>

*Thread each leg servo wire into the bottom wire guide slot on the chassis. Each leg servo should be matched with a hip servo plus 6. The legs are marked with the hip number near the top and the knee number below that. For example, the leg marked 6 should be threaded through the wire guide on hip servo 0, leg 7 goes with hip 1, leg 8 goes with hip 2, etc. Add 6 to the hip number to get the leg number.

====STEP 6: Plug in the Servos====
Thread the servo wires into the chassis using the routing holes, as you did with the hip servos. The power distribution harness has marked servo extension sockets for each servo. Each hip servo is marked on the BASE showing its number. the knee servo for each hip is numbered six higher than its corresponding hip. For example, hip servo number 3 will be attached to knee servo number 9, because 3+6=9.

When plugging the servos in, make sure you match the light yellow servo wire to the white servo extension wire, and the dark brown servo wire should match with the black servo extension wire.

====STEP 7: Make Robot Electrical Connections====

Now use the diagram below in the electrical section to make the rest of the robot's electrical connections. You'll be using the Robot Arduino Nano (marked "R"), the Servo Driver, Bluetooth Module marked "S", the buzzer, and a bunch of jumper wires. Make sure you use the longer jumper wires for the SDA and SCL connections between the Nano and the Servo Driver.

====STEP 8: Assemble the leg hinges====
[[File:Servo-Bracket-Alignment-v1.png|thumb|350px|right|Align the leg hinges as shown here. The bumps (see arrows) should both be near each other when properly aligned. Hold one in each hand with the ends of the U shape between thumb and forefinger.]]
Each leg hinge is composed of two identical U-shaped parts. Take one in each hand and align the two so that the bump (shown in the diagram at the right) are both near each other. Turn one 90 degrees with respect to the other.
*Gently squeeze each piece between thumb and forefinger, which causes the little jaws in the center to open up slightly. Work the two halves together. Keep squeezing harder until the ends slide into place. NOTE: Make sure you printed version V1r2b or later. Earlier versions made it too difficult to squeeze the parts into place. If you printed an earlier version, you may need to trim some plastic using angle cutters to get the parts together.
*If you used PLA and are finding it hard to bend, briefly soaking the pieces in very hot tap water has been reported to make it easier. Take care not to scald yourself, the water does not have to be boiling, just hot from the tap. You only need to dip the ends that will lock over each other, not the parts you will squeeze. Use caution.
*At this stage, you may notice that the parts are loosely clamped on each other (this depends on plastic used and whether your printer over- or under-extrudes). Don't worry! When you place the leg hinges over a servo, the servo will spread it apart and they will lock together tightly.
*Insert a 608 skate bearing into the socket on one side of the leg hinges. Pliers may be necessary to press them into place. Make sure you clean up any drips inside the recessed area for the skate bearing before attempting to insert the bearings.

====STEP 9: Attach Leg Hinges====
The leg hinges connect the hips to the knees. They only go on one way. If you made sure to align the bumps when assembling the leg hinges, this will result in correct orientation of all legs.
*First place the end that matches the servo horn on about halfway. Make sure the servo horn slides under the little pocket at the end of recessed area that accepts the horn.
*Very slightly bend the U shaped piece while pulling the skate bearing side over the hemispherical bump on the other side of the servo holding area. It's a little easier to do the knees (servos mounted to legs) first, followed by the hips (servos on base).
*NOTE: It will be a tight fit, but it should not be excessively difficult to push the hinge over the hemispherical bearing. If you find you are struggling, that means the hinges are too tight. This may affect walking. This can be due to the kind of plastic you used or how your printer is adjusted. You may need to gently spread the two legs of the U shape by hand before putting the hinge on the robot. Be careful of course not to break the hinge.
*When completed, double check to make sure the servo horn went into the covered pocket at the end of its recessed area. This pocket keeps the horn from slipping out of the hinge during stressful operations.

====STEP 10: Enclose the electronics modules in their caddies====

Now things look pretty messy with all those wires hanging loose, let's clean it up by stowing the Arduino Nano, Bluetooth module and Servo Driver in their caddies. The caddies will keep them safe by making sure they can't short out against each other or touch screws, etc.
* '''STEP 10A: Insert Caddy Bars''' Insert the electronics caddy bars as shown in the diagrams below. Notice carefully how they are inserted. Don't insert them upside down, the little hump should be facing inward toward the caddy. You may need to slightly squeeze the forked section at the end to work it into the hole. Once inside, it may be difficult to remove because it will snap into place, so be sure you're putting it in the right way.
<gallery mode=packed heights=300>
File:Insert-Caddy-Bar-1.jpg|Insertion of the caddy bar into the Nano caddy. Notice the orientation, don't put the bar in upside down. The same technique is used for the Servo Driver Caddy.
</gallery>
* '''STEP 10B: Insert the Arduino Nano into its caddy''' Carefully insert the Nano as shown, making sure you don't pull out any of the wires. You may need to wiggle the caddy bar from side to side a bit so that components can slide past it during insertion. Notice that the end of the Nano that has the USB port must go in last.

<gallery mode=packed heights=250>
File:Insert-Nano-In-Caddy-1.jpg|Insert the Nano in the orientation shown.
File:Insert-Nano-In-Caddy-2.jpg|You may need to wiggle it a bit or press on the bar to work it into place.
File:Insert-Nano-In-Caddy-3.jpg|Note how the USB port is accessible through the top after full insertion.
</gallery>

* '''STEP 10C: Insert the Servo Driver into its caddy''' Carefully insert the Servo Driver as shown, making sure you don't pull out any of the wires. You may need to wiggle the caddy bar from side to side a bit so that components can slide past it during insertion. Notice that the end of the Servo controller with wires sticking out of it must go in last.

<gallery mode=packed heights=200>
File:Insert-ServoDriver-In-Caddy-1.jpg|Insert the Servo Driver in the orientation shown.
File:Insert-ServoDriver-In-Caddy-2.jpg|You may need to wiggle it a bit or press on the bar to work it into place.
File:Insert-ServoDriver-In-Caddy-3.jpg|Note that the end with the wires goes in last.
</gallery>

* '''STEP 10D: Insert the HC05 Bluetooth Module''' The diagrams here do not show the wires to make them easier to visualize. The HC05 Bluetooth module with a name beginning with "S" should be used for the robot. For example, the label will read something like "VORP S2944" (the number will differ). The one marked "M" will be used for the gamepad. Slide the HC05 into the side drawer as shown. When inserting, be careful not to pull out the wires, which will be a little tight. Work the wires into the little space provided so they stay clear of the robot's cap when it gets screwed on later.

<gallery mode=packed heights=250>
File:Insert-HC05-in-Caddy-1.jpg|Insert the HC05 into the side drawer of the Nano Caddy as shown.
File:Insert-HC05-in-Caddy-2.jpg|When fully inserted, the indicator light will still be visible through the small oval.
File:Insert-HC05-in-Caddy-3.jpg|The wires should be tucked into the little cavity near the pins of the HC05.
</gallery>

====STEP 11: Power up!====
Make sure the on/off switch is off, and the knob is turned to STOP. Insert batteries and power on the robot using the on/off switch. You should hear a beep, a pause, then a second beep. The servos should all twitch into position. If the robot does not move at all, immediately turn the switch off and check your connections again. If some of the servos don't move then gently push them with power off to see if you can free them up. If they still won't move, try pushing them with power applied, but turn off the power within 30 seconds if they're locked up. If you can't get the servo to move it will need to be replaced.

[[File:Servo-Horn-Orientation.png|thumb|right|The servo horn should come straight out from the body at a 90 degree angle as shown here. Do not turn the servo shaft by hand until after it has moved under power!]]

====STEP 12: Insert Servo Horns====
The servo horns are all at random angles right now due to the servo pre-check. In this step we'll make them point in the right direction. The knee servos are not at 90 degrees when the knob is all the way counter clockwise, rather they are at a 30 degree standing angle.

We need to get them to 90 degrees so its easy to align the servo horn, and this is done by going into "Adjust Mode". Turn the knob very slightly clockwise until you hear a beep, then stop. After about one second you will see all the knee servos twitch. This is "adjust servo horn mode". All servos (knees and hips) are now at their halfway point, 90 degrees.

Now you need to take each single arm servo horn and carefully insert it on the shaft so that it is sticking straight out as shown in the figure. You will not always be able to make the horn come totally straight out. This is because there are only 22 little groves (splines) in each shaft, meaning you can in general only come within about 8 degrees of being at a perfect 90 degree angle. This amount of error is acceptable for now, just get it as close as you can. Later we'll use Trim Mode to make fine adjustments.

====STEP 13: Test Knee Positions====
Turn the knob fully counter clockwise (to STOP) and the robot will go into "stand still" mode. Place it on a level surface such as a table top. Do all of the legs touch the ground? If one or more legs don't touch the ground, you need to adjust the servo horn on the knee a little bit so it does touch. Gently pull off the servo bracket. Pull the servo horn off, and put it back on just a little bit moved so the leg would move closer to the ground. Put the servo bracket back on, and see how it looks. Do this until all legs are at least slightly touching the ground. Again, you can't necessarily be perfect due to the 8 degree increments the servo horns can be moved. But you should be able to be close enough that all legs at least slightly touch the ground.

====STEP 14: Insert Servo Screws====
Now that the legs are adjusted, you can insert the M3x12 screws (with M3 lock washers) into the servo horns to lock them in place. Note that you will NOT be using the screws that were in the little bag the servos came in, you'll be using the separate pack of screws, which are longer than the ones in the servo bag. Do not overtighten these screws, as you could possibly crack the servo brackets. Just turn the screws until you start to feel resistance, then turn a quarter turn more and stop.

====STEP 14: Test the Servos====
*'''STEP 14A: Using TST Mode'''
**To test whether every servo is working, put the robot on something that will lift its legs off the table top, but won't interfere with the legs (a small box, etc.).
**Start with the knob on STOP, then slowly turn it clockwise. You'll hear one beep (Adjust mode), then a second beep (Test mode). Stop turning and the robot will go into "individual servo test mode". In this mode, every hip servo will move, one by one. When all the hips have moved, every leg will move, one by one. You should see every servo move, in order. If some don't move, check your connections. A common error is to plug a servo connector into the servo controller backwards (i.e. the brown wire is matched with the yellow pin instead of the black pin). If the servos do not move in a sensible order, that probably means you plugged a couple of servos into the wrong sockets in the electrical harness.

*'''STEP 14B: Test Using Demo Mode'''
**Ok, everything looks good, so time for a full test. Turn the knob to STOP, then put the robot on the floor, somewhere that has at least a few feet of room in each direction. (Caution: it's tempting to do this on a table top, but unless you have a huge table this is not advisable, Max will run pretty fast at some points during the demo.)
**Turn the knob to DEMO, and about one second later the robot will go through a series of movements to demonstrate some of the things it can do. The full demo only takes about 30 seconds, then repeats. Here, you are looking for the robot to, for example, be able to get back up off the floor after doing some of its dance moves.
**If the robot struggles to get off the floor, you may have a battery that is not fully charged, or there may be drips or other obstructions stopping some legs from moving fully. See the [[Vorpal Combat_Hexapod Troubleshooting Guide|Trouble Shooting Guide]] for more information about different kinds of issues that can occur. That guide was written for the small robot, but most of the things that can go wrong with Max the Megapod are identical to the things that can go wrong with Vorpal The Hexapod.

====STEP 15: Store electronics and wires in the Base====
Carefully stow the caddies into the base, using any available convenient space. Arrange the servo and other wires so they don't cross any screw holes. The three Base Cover parts can be used to secure everything, however you may not want to put in more than one screw each at this point, until the robot is more fully tested. Be sure the two battery connectors come through the holes provided for them in the Cover parts.
<gallery mode=packed heights=250>
File:All-Electronics-Inserted-In-Base.jpg|Carefully stow the caddies into the base, being careful not to pull out any wires. Press servo wires into place too, make sure they don't overlap any screw holes.
File:Base-Covers-3.jpg|Place the three covers in place. It is not necessary to screw them down at this point, you may want to wait until the robot is more fully tested. We normally just put in one screw on each component at this point--this makes it easy to get back into the electronics if something needs to be checked.
</gallery>

====STEP 16: Assemble the Cap====
*'''STEP 16A: Assemble the Four Cap Parts'''
**First assemble the three large pieces after removing the support coming out of the center. Be aware that there is a correct ordering to them, the two flaps that stick out near the bottom need to be opposite each other so the cap can slot into the Base and lock in place. Use 7/8" screws to secure the three parts together as shown. There are access holes around the rim that allow the hex key to reach the screws. Use nuts and locking washers to secure the screws.
**Secure the top of the cap onto the bottom three pieces using three 5/8" #6 socket screws and their associated nuts and toothed lock washers.
<gallery mode=packed heights=250>
File:Cap-Exploded.JPG|Arrangement of the four Cap parts. Note that this diagram shows the support in place, this should actually be removed prior to assembly.
File:CAP-Assembly-order.JPG|Make sure the two flaps at the rim are opposite each other when ordering the three main parts.
</gallery>
* '''STEP 16B: Put magnets in the Cap''' Insert a magnet in each magnet holder in the cap. The magnets are marked with a dot on the North pole side. It is important that this dot be showing after installation. In other words, insert the magnet with the non-dot side down. The magnet is about 2mm smaller in diameter than the hole, so you will need to use hot glue (or some other kind of glue that works on metal and plastic) to secure it.
* '''STEP 16C: Decorate''' If desired, use a permanent marker to color the Vorpal "V" on top of the Cap. Oil markers work well. On light colors of plastic a black permanent marker will also work.
* '''STEP 16D: Put Cap on the Hexapod'''
**Screw the cap on the robot by lining up the tabs with the matching slots in the rim of the base. Turn the cap clockwise to lock it in place. IMPORTANT: Do not press down on the robot to insert the cap when the robot is under power standing on its legs! You can damage the leg motors by doing this. It is best to turn the robot off, and either support the bottom of the Base with one hand and press the Cap on with the other, or set the Base down on the table top or floor with legs out to the sides so they don't take pressure.
**If the cap is too loose and swivels while the robot moves, this can be fixed by putting a bit of tape on the cap's flaps to make them a little thicker. The tightness of the cap depends a lot on printer settings, over- or under-extrusion, etc.

====STEP 17: Warning Label====
There are two a self-stick choking hazard warning labels in the hexapod parts bag. Peel the backing off one of them and place it on the bottom of the robot, near the center. Retain the second label for the gamepad.

==== Step 18: Trimming the Servos ====
EXTREMELY IMPORTANT: This project works best if the servos are trimmed such that in the standing position the robot is in a fairly "high" position. This will minimize stress on the servos when the robot is in a standing position or performing most walking moves. This will reduce overheating and premature failure of the servos. A good test is: if the robot is in standing position and you turn off the main power, does it fall quickly to the floor, or does it keep standing, or at least slowly drift down to the floor. If it falls quickly, that means the servos will be working hard even when the robot is standing still, and that means they will get hotter and hotter even when the robot does nothing. In any case, even if properly trimmed, don't leave the robot on if you're not actively using it. Turn off main power if you will not use it for a time, or remove the main battery if use is completed for a long period of time.

When you assembled the servo horns onto the servos, you probably were not able to get them all to come out exactly at a 90 degree angle. That's not your fault: the servo horns only have 22 possible positions in which they can be installed, so at best you can come within plus or minus 8 degrees of perfection.

Now that you have the gamepad working, you can make fine adjustments to the servo positions using "Trim Mode". In this special gamepad mode, you can adjust all the servos. These adjustments are saved in the robot's EEPROM, which is memory on the Nano that retains data even when powered off. So, you only need to trim once.

Complete instructions on how to use trim mode are in the wiki page: [[Vorpal The Hexapod Trim Mode Guide]]. That guide was written for the smaller robot, but the instructions are identical for Max the Megapod.

NOTE: although this step is optional, it is recommended because your robot will walk straighter and all the servos will share equally in lifting the robot's weight, which will make them last longer.

====Step 19: Assembling Eye Decorations====
Glue a magnet into the magnet hole on both sets of eyes. The magnet should have the marked side face down, not showing.

You can use hot glue, "superglue" or any other kind of glue that works on plastic and metal.

==Electrical Connections: Robot==

===NOTES ON JUMPER WIRES===

====Wire Lengths====
There are two different lengths of female-female Dupont jumper wires used to make most connections. The longer ones (20cm) are only used for the Hexapod's accessory port connections. The shorter ones are used for all the connections on the Gamepad and all the connections on the Hexapod between the Arduino Nano, Servo controller and Bluetooth module.

====Wire Color Conventions====

Please follow these conventions when selecting wire colors:
* For +5V, Vin, and similar positive voltage connections, use either RED or ORANGE.
* For GND and other negative electrical connections, use BLACK or BROWN.
* For the connectors that sit at the mouth of the accessory port (used for optional sensors) colors are suggested below in the instructions. By following these suggestions you will make your life easier when connecting sensors!
* For all other connections, you can use any color you want, it's arbitrary.

====If Jumper Wires Are Too Loose====
Sometimes you will find a wire whose connector does not grip the pin well enough. It might fall off very easily or just by gravity alone. If that happens, you have a few options:
* There are extra wires in your kit. If you find a wire that's too loose, just use a different wire.
* Using the hex key, you can put the jumper housing on a flat surface then press on the metal showing through the plastic connector, which will tighten up the jumper wire's grip. Don't go too overboard on pressing though or you might make it too hard to insert.
* Alternatively, you could use electrical tape after inserting all the wires on a module (such as the Nano) to effectively attach together all the little plastic female connector housings. In that way, the connectors that do grip will help hold in the ones that are too loose. Some people also like using hot glue for this purpose. (Personally, I don't like using hot glue, as it makes it harder to change connections if you hooked something up incorrectly.)

===NANO PIN CONNECTIONS===
[[File:Megapod-Nano-Connections-v1.JPG|thumb|600px|right|Diagram of Nano connections for the Hexapod. Jumpers marked AP are routed to the Accessory Port for use with add-ons like sensors. Click for larger image.]]
* ''Digital IO Pins:''
** D0, D1 are reserved because they are used for uploading programs to the robot, so nothing will be connected there.
** D2, D3 No connection.
** D4 Buzzer Signal (white wire)
** D5 through D13 No connection. These pins are reserved for future expansion.

* ''Analog Pins:''
** A0 Potentiometer signal (white wire)
** A1 Potentiometer Power (red wire)
** A2 Potentiometer Ground (black wire)
** A3 No connection.
** A4 Servo Controller SDA
** A5 Servo Controller SCL
** A6, A7 No connection.

* ''Power Pins:''
** +5V pin on Nano connects to any of the +5V RED wires coming from the BEC on the power distribution harness.
** GND pin on Nano connects to any of the GND BLACK wires coming from the BEC on the power distribution harness.

===Servo Driver Power Pins===
* Port 0 RED pin on the Servo Driver connects to any of the +5V RED wires coming from the BEC on the power distribution harness.
* Port 0 BLACK GND pin on the Servo Driver connects to any of the GND BLACK wires coming from the BEC on the power distribution harness.

=== Bluetooth Module Power ===
* +5V on HC05 connects to any RED Dupont connector coming off the BEC.
* GND on HC05 connects to any BLACK Dupont connector coming off the BEC.

=== Buzzer Power ===
* Plug the buzzer into the unused port 15 on the servo driver, making sure the red and black wires on the buzzer power match the red and black rows of pins on the servo driver.

=== Servo Driver ===
[[File:Megapod-ServoDriverConnections.jpg|thumb|600px|right|Diagram of Servo Controller pins you will use in this project. Each servo motor has a 3 wire connector that should be plugged into the corresponding servo number extension connector in the power distribution harness. The white wires coming out of the harness in groups of four should be connected to the yellow line or ports, matching the number ranges to port numbers. Note that the black and red rows of pins are not used, power is provided to the servos through the power distribution harness. Click for larger image.]]
* Connect the 12 servos to power distribution harness connectors marked with port numbers corresponding to the servo marking (0 to 11). Make sure the signal wire (yellow) is oriented correctly and matches the yellow plastic header pin.
* Connect the groups of four white wires which are marked with servo port numbers to the Servo Driver yellow pins, matching the Servo Driver pin number to the port numbers written on the 4-pin Dupont connectors coming out of the power distribution harness.
* Connect one of the +5V RED regulated BEC outputs to the RED port 0 pin of the Servo Driver. Connect one of the GND black pins coming out of the BEC to the BLACK port 0 GND pin on the Servo Driver.
* On one short side of the Servo Controller you will find a VCC and V+ pin right next to each other. Use a shunt (small black connector that goes over two pins) to connect those together if one is not already installed. Without this shunt the Servo Driver will not work.
* SDA and SCL go to A4 and A5 on the Nano, respectively.



== Building the Gamepad ==
The gamepad for Max The Megapod is identical to the Gamepad for Vorpal The Hexapod.

Please see instructions on [[Vorpal_The_Hexapod_Building_Instructions#Building_the_Gamepadd|the Vorpal Hexapod Gamepad Assembly instructions]].

{{Megapod Quick Links}}

Max The Megapod Assembly Instructions

2026-02-25T20:42:06Z

Vorpalwiki: /* IMPORTANT NOTES */

==IMPORTANT NOTES==
* This is an experimental project.
* It is not for first time robot builders. It contains powerful motors that can cause injury, and uses powerful batteries that require caution. If you are not very familiar with safety precautions for building large robots this project is not for you, build smaller robots instead.
* Never allow this project to sit idle with power on for more than a few minutes. Turn off power if it is not going to be immediately used. Holding the robot in a stress position for long periods of time may cause servo motors to burn out. Remove both batteries in the robot when not using. Never leave powerful batteries in the robot when not in use.
* At public demonstrations, keep children away from the robot when it is operating. When it is not operating, removing the main robot battery is the safest course at public demonstrations because you will not have to worry about leaving the robot unattended and having a spectator turn it on in your absence. This robot is large enough to cause injury and must be monitored closely when interacting with the public.
* Make sure the standing position of the robot is adjusted using the "trim" feature (see gamepad documentation) so that the stance is a bit on the "high" side to minimize stress on the motors when the robot is standing still, which can help prevent overheating. Failure to do so may cause premature failure of the servos. A good test is to see if the robot can maintain the standing position with power shut off. If it can, then the standing position will not be stressing the motors.
* If motors overheat, shut down power immediately and remove the large robot battery. If motors "smoke" remove the entire robot to outdoors to let it vent and do not use again until affected servos are replaced.

==BILL OF MATERIALS (BOM) FOR MAX THE MEGAPOD==
===Notes on Sourcing Parts Yourself===
* These instructions assume you have purchased a kit from us. If you are sourcing your own parts, please be aware of the following additional information:
**If you are sourcing your own parts, you need to build the power distribution connector assembly. For diagrams see [[Max The Megapod Battery/Switch Construction]]. This will take about 2 hours of soldering work.
**Also see important information on that page if you are sourcing your own BEC.
**If you are sourcing your own Bluetooth modules, please be aware that you will need to configure them to auto-pair and to have a UART speed of 38400 BAUD. Every module brand's firmware is a bit different so it's not possible for us to give you universal instructions on how to program them. We assume that if you source your own parts you are familiar with how to configure Bluetooth modules using AT-commands. (You can find tutorials online or videos on youtube, but like we said, different modules may not exactly match instructions you will find so be prepared to fiddle around a bit). Please do not ask our customer support for help on this topic. We sell pre-configured modules that auto-pair on boot for a very reasonable price.
**If you are sourcing your own Arduino Nano modules, you will need to flash the robot and gamepad code on them. You can find the code at the [https://github.com/vorpalrobotics/VorpalHexapod Vorpal Hexapod Repo on Github]. Note: there is no difference in software between the large and small versions of the hexapod.
* Please be very careful about substitutions. You might think you can substitute cheaper parts for the ones specified here. Don't bet on it. Walking robots are extremely difficult to design and we've chosen each part for a good reason. For example, if you try to substitute cheaper servos you are very likely to find that they don't provide enough torque for the robot to stand up, or they wear out within minutes due to being overstressed. If you substitute a different battery voltage, you'll either fry the servos or they won't have enough torque. It took 1000 hours of work to design the smaller hexapod on which this one is based, then another 500 hours to get the big version working well.
* Full kits of parts as well as individual parts are available on [http://vorpal-robotics-store.myshopify.com The Vorpal Robotics Store]. If you are new to Arduino and robotics we strongly recommend you purchase a kit instead of trying to self-source parts. The kits cut 3 to 4 hours off the build time, bringing it to typically 2 to 2.5 hours. The kits have all soldering done, programs are already loaded on the Nanos, Bluetooth modules are properly configured, and you know you have all the right parts to work together. About half the people who self-source parts end up buying parts that are incorrect or are so cheap that they will quickly fail (and they end up spending more money and far more time than if they had simply bought a kit to start with!)

=== ROBOT BOM ===
[[File:Choking-Hazard-Image.jpg|right|350px]]
[[File:PinchPoint-Warning.JPG|right|350px]]
* ''Electronics:''
** Passive Piezo Buzzer module and 3 wire cable (see image) [[File:Passive-Piezo-Buzzer-Module.jpg|right|thumb|Passive Piezo Buzzer Module]]
** Arduino Nano, 5V, 16 mHz, ATMEGA328 or similar (marked RM in our kit to indicate it is pre-loaded with megapod robot software)
** Rotary potentiometer, 10K Ohms, 6mm shaft diameter, with 3 wires pre-soldered. Also, matching dial cap and nut. If you are self-sourcing see our instructions: [[Max The Megapod Battery/Switch Construction]]
** 1 x HC05 BlueTooth Module with 4 x F-F jumper wires for making connections (Note: the HC05 has six pins but only four are used in this project. Also, this is in the Gamepad Parts bag if you purchase our kit.)
** 1 x Servo Controller module (Adafruit 16-channel 12-bit I2C PWM/Servo driver or Adafruit clone) with F-F jumper wires for making connections, plus 1 two-pin shunt tying V+ to VCC
** 12 x MG958 servo motors and associated servo horns (you will only use the single-arm horn). NOTE: our kits come with one extra servo as a spare, there are 13 in the kit but only 12 are needed. We recommend 25T size metal horns for the knee servos (the ones that insert into the legs). We provide six metal horns with our kits as of November 2019. The plastic horns will wear out on the knee servos after about 4 to 8 hours of use and their splines will strip.
** 1 x Power distribution wiring harness with DPST on/off switch, Fuse, Tamiya battery connector, 3A 5V BEC, and servo extension connectors. If you are self-sourcing see our wiring instructions: [[Max The Megapod Battery/Switch Construction|Circuit Diagrams]].
* ''3D Printed Parts:''
** 3 Robot Base Parts and bottom plate to hold the parts together.
** 3 Robot Base Covers (used to enclose wiring inside the Base).
** 4 Cap parts which screw together to form the cap of the robot.
** 6 x Legs
** 12 x Servo Stops. These parts hold the servos in their compartments both in the base and the legs.
** 12 x Leg Hinge halves with Leg Hinge Rings. The rings stop layer separation issues under stress.
** 1 x Electronics Caddy to hold nano and servo controller
** 2 x Eye/glasses Decoration
* Screws and Fasteners
** 12 x button head screw, M3 x 12mm long with M3 toothed lock washers (for servo horns)
** 6 x #6-32 x 7/8" socket head screws (to fasten together "bowl" of base and cap parts).
** 3 x #6-32 x 5/8" socket head screws (to fasten top of cap onto cap bowl)
** 12 x #6-32 x 1.5" socket head cap screws for securing servos in their sockets.
** 2 x #6-32 1” socket head screw (for accessory port)
** 2 x #6-32 0.75" socket head screw (for accessory port)
** 2 x #6 wingnut (for accessory port)
** 19 x #6 nut
** 19 x #6 toothed lock washer
** 9 x #6-32 7/8” socket head screws with lock washers (for fastening Base and Cap sections together)
* ''Miscellaneous:''
** 12 x 608 Skate Bearings
** 8 x 18mm diameter ceramic magnet, approximately 5mm thick, north pole marked. 6 are for robot top, 2 for eye/glasses decorations
** 1 x T handle hex driver, 2mm, for button head screws.
** 1 x T handle hex driver, 7/64" for socket head screws.
* Tools not included in the kit:
** Needle nose pliers are useful for holding the nuts while assembling BASE and CAP parts.
** Slip-pliers are useful for forcing skate bearings into their press-fit locations on the Leg Hinges
** Hot glue gun and glue sticks for securing magnets. You can also use cyanoacrylate glue (i.e. "super glue") or any glue that works on both plastic and metal.
** If you have an electric screwdriver this will make assembly of the servo stops much faster. You would need a 7/64" hex key attachment.
=== Batteries (not included in kit)===
Three batteries are needed for this project:
* Max uses a main battery pack consisting of a five-cell NIMH battery pack with a nominal voltage of 6.0 volts, a minimum of 4000 mAh capacity, 18 gauge or thicker wires, and a full size male Tamiya connector.
* Max also uses a secondary 9v battery through a 5V regulator to drive the electronics (Arduino, Bluetooth module, Servo driver, etc).
* A second 9v battery is needed for the gamepad.

We recommend rechargeable 9v batteries, they can be NIMN, LI-ON, or NICAD.

Make sure you have a compatible charger for all rechargeable batteries.

A main battery pack we have used with success is this one: [https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003WTSPHG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Dynamite 6.0v 5100 mAh NIMH Battery] although many others are available on the market. NOTE: we do not recommend going beyond 7500 mAh capacity as the weight of the battery will start to be too large past that point.

The battery specs should confirm that the main pack can output 5 amps continuously and can handle spikes to 10amps on an intermittent basis (5 seconds maximum). Most NIMH batteries at 4000 mAh or more will fulfill this requirement.

Note: we do not recommend substituting LI-ON batteries for the main pack on the Megapod, as they often cannot supply enough amps or will overheat under too high a load. We do not recommend NICAD batteries for environmental reasons. NIMH is really the perfect battery type for this application.

Many hobby and RC suppliers have cable converters to go from Tamiya connectors to other types (cross, XT60, etc.) so it is possible to use NIMH batteries with other kinds of connector if you can locate or construct a suitable adapter cable. If you construct your own battery conversion cable you must be extremely careful to do it properly, as batteries can be dangerous if connected improperly.

If you solder your own battery connectors observe extreme caution as NIMH batteries can discharge dangerously high amps. You are better off buying a battery with the right connector unless you are very familiar with soldering your own battery packs and understand the safety requirements for doing so.

=== GAMEPAD ===
The gamepad for Max The Megapod is identical to the gamepad for Vorpal The Hexapod. See instructions for the gamepad here: [[Vorpal_The_Hexapod_Building_Instructions#Building_the_Gamepadd|Vorpal The Hexapod Gamepad Assembly instructions]]

==Printing the Plastic Parts==

This section assumes you have basic familiarity with 3D printing and 3D printing terminology. If not, you might want to reference online materials such as youtube videos or information from your 3D printer manufacturer before attempting this project.

===OBTAINING THE STL FILES===
We have posted the STL files our public dropbox folder: [http://tinyurl.com/VORPALFILES VORPAL FILES]. Go to the STL folder, then the GAMEPAD and MEGAPOD folders have the files you need. (The same gamepad is shared among all our hexapod projects).

Please post your builds to places like Thingiverse, pictures to FaceBook, Instagram, etc., and videos of your robot to YouTube! This will help us grow and continue having the resources creating cool new projects for our community.

===MINIMUM PRINTER REQUIREMENTS===
*The bed size should be at least 200mm cube (about 8 inches cube). The largest parts are the megapod Base-1, Base-2, and Base-3 parts, so it is the limiting factor on bed size.
*A heated bed is strongly recommended, especially if you are printing in ABS.
*An enclosure is recommended, especially if printing in ABS.
===AMOUNT OF PLASTIC FILAMENT===
* About 2.5 kg of plastic are needed to print the entire robot and gamepad. This does not include accessories like Joust attachments, etc.
* The amount of plastic used does depend on plastic type and exact print settings though, so your mileage may vary.
===RECOMMENDED PLASTICS===
*ABS, PETG, and PLA all work well. However, because there are some very large parts, ABS may cause you some warping issues if you don't have a heated bed, enclosure, and a printer tuned well for large parts. PLA is generally easier and has fewer issues with corners peeling off the print bed.
*We use eSun PLA PRO for this project and for us it works very well. PLA PRO is a little more flexible and stronger than typical PLA. We have no problems with warping even on the largest parts.
*This project requires less flexibility than the smaller Vorpal The Hexapod project, so ABS is less required for this project.
===PRINTING TIPS===
This project has been finely tuned to make it easy to 3D print. No supports are required for any of the parts (there is a support built into the models for the CAP parts). In some cases you may want to use brims or rafts to help parts adhere to the print surface.

There is some significant bridging with some spans up to 30mm (1.2"). It is important to tune your printer and make sure it can handle the bridging before attempting the large parts. A little sagging is ok and a drip or two can be easily removed, but you need decent ability to bridge. There are bridge testing and calibration models posted on sites like Thingiverse that may help you tune your printer before trying the big parts.

====PRINT SETTINGS====
We print using the following settings on a Lulzbot TAZ 6 with 0.5mm nozzle:
* 0.4 layer thickness (or whatever layer thickness is the largest that will work on your printer)
* 2mm walls (i.e. four perimeters for a 0.5mm nozzle)
* 1.6 mm top and bottom (i.e. four layers at 0.4mm layer height)
* 25% infill
* You can print with thinner layers if your printer does not support 0.4mm layers or if you want a more refined look, it will just take longer. If you have a large nozzle (0.8mm or more) you should be able to go with bigger layers and save a lot of print time. Please report your findings to us at support@vorpalrobotics.com so we can advise future Makers of this project.
====BRIMS AND RAFTS====
* Brims or rafts are recommended for the following hexapod parts: Base, Legs, Cap. This ensures proper bed retention to avoid warping. These parts have relatively little contact area with the print bed, or have certain sections with little contact.
*If you have a very well dialed-in printer and have no issues with warping or corners curling up during prints, you can try them without brims. We don't use brims on anything but we've printed thousands of parts and we keep our printers very well tuned all the time with weekly maintenance and adjustments.
*These parts are large so if you don't use brims and things don't work out you might kill half a roll of plastic ... so maybe just use brims, it only adds a few minutes of cleanup time.
* Brims/rafts are not recommended on any of the other parts. The other parts generally have enough bed surface contact that they will print fine without brims. Your mileage may vary however and it is recommended that you keep a close eye on the first few layers of the print to make sure everything is sticking properly.
* We personally prefer brims over rafts (such as available in Cura and Simplify3D) as they are easy to remove and leave a clean look.
====POST PRINT====
Other than removing brims/rafts and the occasional drip, there is not any special post-processing required after printing. Some of the big bridges might seem a little saggy but generally speaking there's enough tolerance that this won't cause an issue. The biggest bridges are mostly hidden inside the robot so they won't affect cosmetics.

====PRO TIPS====
*Do routine maintenance on your printer before printing the big parts: lubricate rods and lead screws, check bed leveling, replace nozzle if worn, do a calibration print, clean your print surface, etc. A few minutes of preparation will help you nail these prints and make a project you can be very proud of!
*Print the large parts (Base, Cap) at the ''start'' of new spools. The last thing you want is to run out of filament 95% of the way through a big part.
*Print the smallest parts (servo stops, hinge rings, gamepad drawer) near the end of a spool.
*If you have a large format printer, it is tempting to kick off all three Base parts at once and let it run overnight. We would recommend against that--the chances of killing an entire spool of filament due to an overnight power hit or other failure is just not worth it. Take your time, do the big parts one by one. One or two during the day, one overnight. It will all get done soon enough. An extra couple of days won't matter in the long run.

== Building the Robot ==

You will need the following tools:
*Included in the kit:
** 2mm hex key. A 5/64 inch hex key will also work. This is in the Megapod Parts bag.
** 7/64 hex key at least 6" long (150mm). It needs to be long enough to reach screws through access holes in the Base and Cap. This is in the Megapod Parts Bag.
*Not included in the kit:
** Optional: A marker that can write on dark plastic and still be seen, such as Sharpie Metallic or Sharpie Oil markers (white and yellow work great on dark colored plastic, black or blue work well on light colored plastic). This can be used to make raised lettering on the robot and gamepad more visible.
** Optional: Needle nose pliers can be helpful for holding nuts in place while tightening screws.
** Optional: Slip-joint pliers can be helpful for forcing the skate bearings into their press-fit locations on the Leg Hinges
** Optional: An electric screwdriver with a 7/64" hex key attachment will greatly speed up the process of locking the servos in place using the servo stop parts. There are 12 long screws to insert. Do yourself a favor, electric screwdrivers are not expensive these days and are very handy.

===IMPORTANT WARNING: POWERFUL SERVOS MAY INJURE YOU===
The motors on Max the Megapod are very powerful compared to the smaller Vorpal the Hexapod project. It is possible for the leg motions to pinch fingers or even possibly break fingers or cause other injuries. When powering on the Megapod you must keep fingers clear of places where the legs/hips can come together. In case of electrical issues the legs may move unexpectedly. Turning the power off will release the motors. Never let small children play with the megapod or grab at it when it's walking or moving.

If the robot is moving in an out of control manner, use a pencil, book, or rod to hit the power switch, which is large and easy to turn off.

You must at all times take standard precautions that are typical with large robotic projects.

If you are building your own electrical system please do not skimp by skipping adding the fuse to the circuit. This project may draw significant amperage and fuse protection is required.

===Step by Step Instructions===
====STEP 1: Insert accessory port screws in the chassis====
This is easier to do before the Base is assembled into a single part.
* Insert 1" #6-32 socket head screws in the bottom two holes of the accessory port with the head of the screw inside the hexapod, then secure using lock washers and nuts outside. Repeat for the top two accessory holes with shorter 3/4" #6-32 socket head screws. Two wingnuts go on the two lower screws, these will be used to secure accessories such as the Jousting Lance.
<gallery mode=packed>
File:Accessory-Port-Diagram-V2.JPG|The accessory port is considered the "front" of the robot.
File:Accessory-Port-Screws.JPG|Longer socket head screws go on the bottom. Do not overtighten the nuts.
File:Wing-Nuts-Installed.JPG|After installing the nuts, put the wingnuts on the bottom screws. They'll be used later to secure accessories.
</gallery>

====STEP 2: Build the BASE====
* STEP 1A: Take the three outer parts of the base (STL files: Base-1, Base-2, Base-3) and arrange them to form the "bowl" of the base. Make sure the servo numbers are in the right order as you move clockwise around the three parts! It's possible to assemble them in the wrong order if you don't check.
* STEP 1B: There are matching screw holes positioned on little rectangular outcroppings on the inside of the top ring, these require screws to bind the three parts together. Use three 7/8 inch socket head screws, toothed lock washers, and nuts to secure them. There is an access hole in the rim of the robot to allow the hex key to turn the screw. You may need to hold the nut in place using needle-nose pliers. Repeat for all three sections.
<gallery mode=packed heights=250>
File:Base-Exploded-View.JPG|Line up the three main pieces of the base, ensuring the servo numbers are in order.
File:Access-Hole-In-Base.jpg|Small access holes are strategically placed around the base so the hex key can turn the screws to secure the three base pieces.
File:Securing-Base-Sections.jpg|Use the access hole in the Base parts to secure screws that bind the three base parts together.
File:Megapod-Foam-Squares.jpg|Peel the backing off the foam squares that came with the kit and attach them to the bottom of the base. Stack them on top of each other.
</gallery>
* STEP 1C: Take the Base Bottom part and place it inside the base. There is a nub in one place that will only allow it to be inserted in one orientation. Use 5/8" screws in the outer ring of holes in the bottom to secure it to the base. The head of the screw should be on the outside of the robot and nuts should secure the screws on the inside. NOTE: There are six outer ring holes, however you only need three of them (one in each base section) to secure the robot. Early versions of the kit only had three 5/8" screws.
* STEP 1D: Take the foam squares that came in your kit and stick them on the bottom of the robot. (Build up several layers, they stick to each other.) These foam pads will reduce the shock and stress on the robot when it goes down to the floor on certain dance moves. Without these pads, the robot leg servos and body structure may undergo too much stress.

====STEP 3: Install the electrical system in the base====
* STEP 3A: Take the potentiometer and remove its dial cap, then unscrew the nut and set these items aside for now (don't lose them). Push the potentiometer shaft from the inside of the chassis into the hole that is surrounded by the markings "STOP", "TST", etc. The wires coming out of the potentiometer should be pointing down. The little metal nub sticking out of the potentiometer should match with a tiny rectangular hole that is near the marking "TST". Put the retaining nut on the potentiometer, hand tighten first and then give it just another half turn or so with pliers if desired. Turn the knob all the way counter-clockwise, then insert the knob so it points to the letter "O" in the word "STOP".
* STEP 3B: Take the large DPST on/off switch (which is attached to the battery holder and power distribution assembly) and thread the switch wires from the inside through the gap at the bottom of the switch hole (see picture). Carefully push the wires one by one through the slot below the switch hole. Once all the wires are through, push the switch into the switch hole. It should be oriented with the "1" to the right. Press carefully into the hole, it should snap firmly in place.
** If the fit is too tight to get the switch in place, lightly sanding or filing the hole to make it a tiny bit larger should work.
<gallery mode=packed heights=200>
File:Switch-Insert-1.jpg|Thread the switch and its wires through the Base, there is an opening under the switch hole.
File:Switch-Insert-2.jpg|Bring the wires up through the small gap below the switch hole. Be careful with the large wires, they require some pressure or some flexing of the plastic to get through.
File:Switch-Insert-3.jpg|All the wires are now coming through the switch hole.
File:Switch-Insert-4.jpg|Press the switch into the hole, it should snap into place. The "1" should be to the right.
</gallery>

====STEP 4: Insert servos in the chassis====
* Next, insert the servo into the chassis as shown in the diagrams below. As you insert the servo into the chassis, slowly press it straight into place until it fully seats. Use a servo stopper and one 1.5 inch #6 socket screw to secure the servos in place. Use the hole nearest to the front of the servo. NOTE: There are two holes in the Servo Stop but we have found that one screw is enough to hold it. The second hole could be used if you find that the plastic you use tears through the hole. We have not seen this but we added the second hole just in case.
<gallery mode=packed heights=250>
File:Servo-in-Base-2.jpg|Insert each servo with the wire coming out away from the robot as shown here. Press in completely.
File:Servo-in-Base-3.jpg|Insert a servo stopper (shown in red) and secure with one 1.5" screw in the hole nearest the front (the servo shaft and horn is in the front). Thread the wire into the body of the robot through the hole as shown.
</gallery>

====STEP 5: Insert the servos in the Legs====
The technique is very similar to inserting the servo into the chassis.
*Insert the servo straight into the leg socket so that the wire is coming out of the servo facing away from the plastic leg and the face of the servo with the shaft and servo horn goes into the open faced side of the leg, as shown in the diagram.
*Secure the servo in place with a servo stopper and one 1.5 inch screw as you did with the hip servos in the base. NOTE: There are two holes in the stopper but we have found that one screw is enough to hold it. The second hole could be used if you find that the plastic you use tears through the hole. We have not seen this but we added the second hole just in case.
*The servos in the legs are called the "knee" servos. Each leg has a higher number on it, this is the knee number, they run from 6 to 11. Again, write this number on the black connector at the end of the servo wire. PRO TIP: For 6 and 9, underline the number so you don't read them upside down!
<gallery mode=packed heights=200>
File:Servo-Insert-Leg-v2.png|Insert Servos in Legs
File:Servo-Leg-Inserted-v2.png|Push until fully seated
File:Servo-Stopper-In-Leg.jpg|Use the servo stopper and two screws to lock the servo in place
</gallery>

*Thread each leg servo wire into the bottom wire guide slot on the chassis. Each leg servo should be matched with a hip servo plus 6. The legs are marked with the hip number near the top and the knee number below that. For example, the leg marked 6 should be threaded through the wire guide on hip servo 0, leg 7 goes with hip 1, leg 8 goes with hip 2, etc. Add 6 to the hip number to get the leg number.

====STEP 6: Plug in the Servos====
Thread the servo wires into the chassis using the routing holes, as you did with the hip servos. The power distribution harness has marked servo extension sockets for each servo. Each hip servo is marked on the BASE showing its number. the knee servo for each hip is numbered six higher than its corresponding hip. For example, hip servo number 3 will be attached to knee servo number 9, because 3+6=9.

When plugging the servos in, make sure you match the light yellow servo wire to the white servo extension wire, and the dark brown servo wire should match with the black servo extension wire.

====STEP 7: Make Robot Electrical Connections====

Now use the diagram below in the electrical section to make the rest of the robot's electrical connections. You'll be using the Robot Arduino Nano (marked "R"), the Servo Driver, Bluetooth Module marked "S", the buzzer, and a bunch of jumper wires. Make sure you use the longer jumper wires for the SDA and SCL connections between the Nano and the Servo Driver.

====STEP 8: Assemble the leg hinges====
[[File:Servo-Bracket-Alignment-v1.png|thumb|350px|right|Align the leg hinges as shown here. The bumps (see arrows) should both be near each other when properly aligned. Hold one in each hand with the ends of the U shape between thumb and forefinger.]]
Each leg hinge is composed of two identical U-shaped parts. Take one in each hand and align the two so that the bump (shown in the diagram at the right) are both near each other. Turn one 90 degrees with respect to the other.
*Gently squeeze each piece between thumb and forefinger, which causes the little jaws in the center to open up slightly. Work the two halves together. Keep squeezing harder until the ends slide into place. NOTE: Make sure you printed version V1r2b or later. Earlier versions made it too difficult to squeeze the parts into place. If you printed an earlier version, you may need to trim some plastic using angle cutters to get the parts together.
*If you used PLA and are finding it hard to bend, briefly soaking the pieces in very hot tap water has been reported to make it easier. Take care not to scald yourself, the water does not have to be boiling, just hot from the tap. You only need to dip the ends that will lock over each other, not the parts you will squeeze. Use caution.
*At this stage, you may notice that the parts are loosely clamped on each other (this depends on plastic used and whether your printer over- or under-extrudes). Don't worry! When you place the leg hinges over a servo, the servo will spread it apart and they will lock together tightly.
*Insert a 608 skate bearing into the socket on one side of the leg hinges. Pliers may be necessary to press them into place. Make sure you clean up any drips inside the recessed area for the skate bearing before attempting to insert the bearings.

====STEP 9: Attach Leg Hinges====
The leg hinges connect the hips to the knees. They only go on one way. If you made sure to align the bumps when assembling the leg hinges, this will result in correct orientation of all legs.
*First place the end that matches the servo horn on about halfway. Make sure the servo horn slides under the little pocket at the end of recessed area that accepts the horn.
*Very slightly bend the U shaped piece while pulling the skate bearing side over the hemispherical bump on the other side of the servo holding area. It's a little easier to do the knees (servos mounted to legs) first, followed by the hips (servos on base).
*NOTE: It will be a tight fit, but it should not be excessively difficult to push the hinge over the hemispherical bearing. If you find you are struggling, that means the hinges are too tight. This may affect walking. This can be due to the kind of plastic you used or how your printer is adjusted. You may need to gently spread the two legs of the U shape by hand before putting the hinge on the robot. Be careful of course not to break the hinge.
*When completed, double check to make sure the servo horn went into the covered pocket at the end of its recessed area. This pocket keeps the horn from slipping out of the hinge during stressful operations.

====STEP 10: Enclose the electronics modules in their caddies====

Now things look pretty messy with all those wires hanging loose, let's clean it up by stowing the Arduino Nano, Bluetooth module and Servo Driver in their caddies. The caddies will keep them safe by making sure they can't short out against each other or touch screws, etc.
* '''STEP 10A: Insert Caddy Bars''' Insert the electronics caddy bars as shown in the diagrams below. Notice carefully how they are inserted. Don't insert them upside down, the little hump should be facing inward toward the caddy. You may need to slightly squeeze the forked section at the end to work it into the hole. Once inside, it may be difficult to remove because it will snap into place, so be sure you're putting it in the right way.
<gallery mode=packed heights=300>
File:Insert-Caddy-Bar-1.jpg|Insertion of the caddy bar into the Nano caddy. Notice the orientation, don't put the bar in upside down. The same technique is used for the Servo Driver Caddy.
</gallery>
* '''STEP 10B: Insert the Arduino Nano into its caddy''' Carefully insert the Nano as shown, making sure you don't pull out any of the wires. You may need to wiggle the caddy bar from side to side a bit so that components can slide past it during insertion. Notice that the end of the Nano that has the USB port must go in last.

<gallery mode=packed heights=250>
File:Insert-Nano-In-Caddy-1.jpg|Insert the Nano in the orientation shown.
File:Insert-Nano-In-Caddy-2.jpg|You may need to wiggle it a bit or press on the bar to work it into place.
File:Insert-Nano-In-Caddy-3.jpg|Note how the USB port is accessible through the top after full insertion.
</gallery>

* '''STEP 10C: Insert the Servo Driver into its caddy''' Carefully insert the Servo Driver as shown, making sure you don't pull out any of the wires. You may need to wiggle the caddy bar from side to side a bit so that components can slide past it during insertion. Notice that the end of the Servo controller with wires sticking out of it must go in last.

<gallery mode=packed heights=200>
File:Insert-ServoDriver-In-Caddy-1.jpg|Insert the Servo Driver in the orientation shown.
File:Insert-ServoDriver-In-Caddy-2.jpg|You may need to wiggle it a bit or press on the bar to work it into place.
File:Insert-ServoDriver-In-Caddy-3.jpg|Note that the end with the wires goes in last.
</gallery>

* '''STEP 10D: Insert the HC05 Bluetooth Module''' The diagrams here do not show the wires to make them easier to visualize. The HC05 Bluetooth module with a name beginning with "S" should be used for the robot. For example, the label will read something like "VORP S2944" (the number will differ). The one marked "M" will be used for the gamepad. Slide the HC05 into the side drawer as shown. When inserting, be careful not to pull out the wires, which will be a little tight. Work the wires into the little space provided so they stay clear of the robot's cap when it gets screwed on later.

<gallery mode=packed heights=250>
File:Insert-HC05-in-Caddy-1.jpg|Insert the HC05 into the side drawer of the Nano Caddy as shown.
File:Insert-HC05-in-Caddy-2.jpg|When fully inserted, the indicator light will still be visible through the small oval.
File:Insert-HC05-in-Caddy-3.jpg|The wires should be tucked into the little cavity near the pins of the HC05.
</gallery>

====STEP 11: Power up!====
Make sure the on/off switch is off, and the knob is turned to STOP. Insert batteries and power on the robot using the on/off switch. You should hear a beep, a pause, then a second beep. The servos should all twitch into position. If the robot does not move at all, immediately turn the switch off and check your connections again. If some of the servos don't move then gently push them with power off to see if you can free them up. If they still won't move, try pushing them with power applied, but turn off the power within 30 seconds if they're locked up. If you can't get the servo to move it will need to be replaced.

[[File:Servo-Horn-Orientation.png|thumb|right|The servo horn should come straight out from the body at a 90 degree angle as shown here. Do not turn the servo shaft by hand until after it has moved under power!]]

====STEP 12: Insert Servo Horns====
The servo horns are all at random angles right now due to the servo pre-check. In this step we'll make them point in the right direction. The knee servos are not at 90 degrees when the knob is all the way counter clockwise, rather they are at a 30 degree standing angle.

We need to get them to 90 degrees so its easy to align the servo horn, and this is done by going into "Adjust Mode". Turn the knob very slightly clockwise until you hear a beep, then stop. After about one second you will see all the knee servos twitch. This is "adjust servo horn mode". All servos (knees and hips) are now at their halfway point, 90 degrees.

Now you need to take each single arm servo horn and carefully insert it on the shaft so that it is sticking straight out as shown in the figure. You will not always be able to make the horn come totally straight out. This is because there are only 22 little groves (splines) in each shaft, meaning you can in general only come within about 8 degrees of being at a perfect 90 degree angle. This amount of error is acceptable for now, just get it as close as you can. Later we'll use Trim Mode to make fine adjustments.

====STEP 13: Test Knee Positions====
Turn the knob fully counter clockwise (to STOP) and the robot will go into "stand still" mode. Place it on a level surface such as a table top. Do all of the legs touch the ground? If one or more legs don't touch the ground, you need to adjust the servo horn on the knee a little bit so it does touch. Gently pull off the servo bracket. Pull the servo horn off, and put it back on just a little bit moved so the leg would move closer to the ground. Put the servo bracket back on, and see how it looks. Do this until all legs are at least slightly touching the ground. Again, you can't necessarily be perfect due to the 8 degree increments the servo horns can be moved. But you should be able to be close enough that all legs at least slightly touch the ground.

====STEP 14: Insert Servo Screws====
Now that the legs are adjusted, you can insert the M3x12 screws (with M3 lock washers) into the servo horns to lock them in place. Note that you will NOT be using the screws that were in the little bag the servos came in, you'll be using the separate pack of screws, which are longer than the ones in the servo bag. Do not overtighten these screws, as you could possibly crack the servo brackets. Just turn the screws until you start to feel resistance, then turn a quarter turn more and stop.

====STEP 14: Test the Servos====
*'''STEP 14A: Using TST Mode'''
**To test whether every servo is working, put the robot on something that will lift its legs off the table top, but won't interfere with the legs (a small box, etc.).
**Start with the knob on STOP, then slowly turn it clockwise. You'll hear one beep (Adjust mode), then a second beep (Test mode). Stop turning and the robot will go into "individual servo test mode". In this mode, every hip servo will move, one by one. When all the hips have moved, every leg will move, one by one. You should see every servo move, in order. If some don't move, check your connections. A common error is to plug a servo connector into the servo controller backwards (i.e. the brown wire is matched with the yellow pin instead of the black pin). If the servos do not move in a sensible order, that probably means you plugged a couple of servos into the wrong sockets in the electrical harness.

*'''STEP 14B: Test Using Demo Mode'''
**Ok, everything looks good, so time for a full test. Turn the knob to STOP, then put the robot on the floor, somewhere that has at least a few feet of room in each direction. (Caution: it's tempting to do this on a table top, but unless you have a huge table this is not advisable, Max will run pretty fast at some points during the demo.)
**Turn the knob to DEMO, and about one second later the robot will go through a series of movements to demonstrate some of the things it can do. The full demo only takes about 30 seconds, then repeats. Here, you are looking for the robot to, for example, be able to get back up off the floor after doing some of its dance moves.
**If the robot struggles to get off the floor, you may have a battery that is not fully charged, or there may be drips or other obstructions stopping some legs from moving fully. See the [[Vorpal Combat_Hexapod Troubleshooting Guide|Trouble Shooting Guide]] for more information about different kinds of issues that can occur. That guide was written for the small robot, but most of the things that can go wrong with Max the Megapod are identical to the things that can go wrong with Vorpal The Hexapod.

====STEP 15: Store electronics and wires in the Base====
Carefully stow the caddies into the base, using any available convenient space. Arrange the servo and other wires so they don't cross any screw holes. The three Base Cover parts can be used to secure everything, however you may not want to put in more than one screw each at this point, until the robot is more fully tested. Be sure the two battery connectors come through the holes provided for them in the Cover parts.
<gallery mode=packed heights=250>
File:All-Electronics-Inserted-In-Base.jpg|Carefully stow the caddies into the base, being careful not to pull out any wires. Press servo wires into place too, make sure they don't overlap any screw holes.
File:Base-Covers-3.jpg|Place the three covers in place. It is not necessary to screw them down at this point, you may want to wait until the robot is more fully tested. We normally just put in one screw on each component at this point--this makes it easy to get back into the electronics if something needs to be checked.
</gallery>

====STEP 16: Assemble the Cap====
*'''STEP 16A: Assemble the Four Cap Parts'''
**First assemble the three large pieces after removing the support coming out of the center. Be aware that there is a correct ordering to them, the two flaps that stick out near the bottom need to be opposite each other so the cap can slot into the Base and lock in place. Use 7/8" screws to secure the three parts together as shown. There are access holes around the rim that allow the hex key to reach the screws. Use nuts and locking washers to secure the screws.
**Secure the top of the cap onto the bottom three pieces using three 5/8" #6 socket screws and their associated nuts and toothed lock washers.
<gallery mode=packed heights=250>
File:Cap-Exploded.JPG|Arrangement of the four Cap parts. Note that this diagram shows the support in place, this should actually be removed prior to assembly.
File:CAP-Assembly-order.JPG|Make sure the two flaps at the rim are opposite each other when ordering the three main parts.
</gallery>
* '''STEP 16B: Put magnets in the Cap''' Insert a magnet in each magnet holder in the cap. The magnets are marked with a dot on the North pole side. It is important that this dot be showing after installation. In other words, insert the magnet with the non-dot side down. The magnet is about 2mm smaller in diameter than the hole, so you will need to use hot glue (or some other kind of glue that works on metal and plastic) to secure it.
* '''STEP 16C: Decorate''' If desired, use a permanent marker to color the Vorpal "V" on top of the Cap. Oil markers work well. On light colors of plastic a black permanent marker will also work.
* '''STEP 16D: Put Cap on the Hexapod'''
**Screw the cap on the robot by lining up the tabs with the matching slots in the rim of the base. Turn the cap clockwise to lock it in place. IMPORTANT: Do not press down on the robot to insert the cap when the robot is under power standing on its legs! You can damage the leg motors by doing this. It is best to turn the robot off, and either support the bottom of the Base with one hand and press the Cap on with the other, or set the Base down on the table top or floor with legs out to the sides so they don't take pressure.
**If the cap is too loose and swivels while the robot moves, this can be fixed by putting a bit of tape on the cap's flaps to make them a little thicker. The tightness of the cap depends a lot on printer settings, over- or under-extrusion, etc.

====STEP 17: Warning Label====
There are two a self-stick choking hazard warning labels in the hexapod parts bag. Peel the backing off one of them and place it on the bottom of the robot, near the center. Retain the second label for the gamepad.

==== Step 18: Trimming the Servos ====
EXTREMELY IMPORTANT: This project works best if the servos are trimmed such that in the standing position the robot is in a fairly "high" position. This will minimize stress on the servos when the robot is in a standing position or performing most walking moves. This will reduce overheating and premature failure of the servos. A good test is: if the robot is in standing position and you turn off the main power, does it fall quickly to the floor, or does it keep standing, or at least slowly drift down to the floor. If it falls quickly, that means the servos will be working hard even when the robot is standing still, and that means they will get hotter and hotter even when the robot does nothing. In any case, even if properly trimmed, don't leave the robot on if you're not actively using it. Turn off main power if you will not use it for a time, or remove the main battery if use is completed for a long period of time.

When you assembled the servo horns onto the servos, you probably were not able to get them all to come out exactly at a 90 degree angle. That's not your fault: the servo horns only have 22 possible positions in which they can be installed, so at best you can come within plus or minus 8 degrees of perfection.

Now that you have the gamepad working, you can make fine adjustments to the servo positions using "Trim Mode". In this special gamepad mode, you can adjust all the servos. These adjustments are saved in the robot's EEPROM, which is memory on the Nano that retains data even when powered off. So, you only need to trim once.

Complete instructions on how to use trim mode are in the wiki page: [[Vorpal The Hexapod Trim Mode Guide]]. That guide was written for the smaller robot, but the instructions are identical for Max the Megapod.

NOTE: although this step is optional, it is recommended because your robot will walk straighter and all the servos will share equally in lifting the robot's weight, which will make them last longer.

====Step 19: Assembling Eye Decorations====
Glue a magnet into the magnet hole on both sets of eyes. The magnet should have the marked side face down, not showing.

You can use hot glue, "superglue" or any other kind of glue that works on plastic and metal.

==Electrical Connections: Robot==

===NOTES ON JUMPER WIRES===

====Wire Lengths====
There are two different lengths of female-female Dupont jumper wires used to make most connections. The longer ones (20cm) are only used for the Hexapod's accessory port connections. The shorter ones are used for all the connections on the Gamepad and all the connections on the Hexapod between the Arduino Nano, Servo controller and Bluetooth module.

====Wire Color Conventions====

Please follow these conventions when selecting wire colors:
* For +5V, Vin, and similar positive voltage connections, use either RED or ORANGE.
* For GND and other negative electrical connections, use BLACK or BROWN.
* For the connectors that sit at the mouth of the accessory port (used for optional sensors) colors are suggested below in the instructions. By following these suggestions you will make your life easier when connecting sensors!
* For all other connections, you can use any color you want, it's arbitrary.

====If Jumper Wires Are Too Loose====
Sometimes you will find a wire whose connector does not grip the pin well enough. It might fall off very easily or just by gravity alone. If that happens, you have a few options:
* There are extra wires in your kit. If you find a wire that's too loose, just use a different wire.
* Using the hex key, you can put the jumper housing on a flat surface then press on the metal showing through the plastic connector, which will tighten up the jumper wire's grip. Don't go too overboard on pressing though or you might make it too hard to insert.
* Alternatively, you could use electrical tape after inserting all the wires on a module (such as the Nano) to effectively attach together all the little plastic female connector housings. In that way, the connectors that do grip will help hold in the ones that are too loose. Some people also like using hot glue for this purpose. (Personally, I don't like using hot glue, as it makes it harder to change connections if you hooked something up incorrectly.)

===NANO PIN CONNECTIONS===
[[File:Megapod-Nano-Connections-v1.JPG|thumb|600px|right|Diagram of Nano connections for the Hexapod. Jumpers marked AP are routed to the Accessory Port for use with add-ons like sensors. Click for larger image.]]
* ''Digital IO Pins:''
** D0, D1 are reserved because they are used for uploading programs to the robot, so nothing will be connected there.
** D2, D3 No connection.
** D4 Buzzer Signal (white wire)
** D5 through D13 No connection. These pins are reserved for future expansion.

* ''Analog Pins:''
** A0 Potentiometer signal (white wire)
** A1 Potentiometer Power (red wire)
** A2 Potentiometer Ground (black wire)
** A3 No connection.
** A4 Servo Controller SDA
** A5 Servo Controller SCL
** A6, A7 No connection.

* ''Power Pins:''
** +5V pin on Nano connects to any of the +5V RED wires coming from the BEC on the power distribution harness.
** GND pin on Nano connects to any of the GND BLACK wires coming from the BEC on the power distribution harness.

===Servo Driver Power Pins===
* Port 0 RED pin on the Servo Driver connects to any of the +5V RED wires coming from the BEC on the power distribution harness.
* Port 0 BLACK GND pin on the Servo Driver connects to any of the GND BLACK wires coming from the BEC on the power distribution harness.

=== Bluetooth Module Power ===
* +5V on HC05 connects to any RED Dupont connector coming off the BEC.
* GND on HC05 connects to any BLACK Dupont connector coming off the BEC.

=== Buzzer Power ===
* Plug the buzzer into the unused port 15 on the servo driver, making sure the red and black wires on the buzzer power match the red and black rows of pins on the servo driver.

=== Servo Driver ===
[[File:Megapod-ServoDriverConnections.jpg|thumb|600px|right|Diagram of Servo Controller pins you will use in this project. Each servo motor has a 3 wire connector that should be plugged into the corresponding servo number extension connector in the power distribution harness. The white wires coming out of the harness in groups of four should be connected to the yellow line or ports, matching the number ranges to port numbers. Note that the black and red rows of pins are not used, power is provided to the servos through the power distribution harness. Click for larger image.]]
* Connect the 12 servos to power distribution harness connectors marked with port numbers corresponding to the servo marking (0 to 11). Make sure the signal wire (yellow) is oriented correctly and matches the yellow plastic header pin.
* Connect the groups of four white wires which are marked with servo port numbers to the Servo Driver yellow pins, matching the Servo Driver pin number to the port numbers written on the 4-pin Dupont connectors coming out of the power distribution harness.
* Connect one of the +5V RED regulated BEC outputs to the RED port 0 pin of the Servo Driver. Connect one of the GND black pins coming out of the BEC to the BLACK port 0 GND pin on the Servo Driver.
* On one short side of the Servo Controller you will find a VCC and V+ pin right next to each other. Use a shunt (small black connector that goes over two pins) to connect those together if one is not already installed. Without this shunt the Servo Driver will not work.
* SDA and SCL go to A4 and A5 on the Nano, respectively.



== Building the Gamepad ==
The gamepad for Max The Megapod is identical to the Gamepad for Vorpal The Hexapod.

Please see instructions on [[Vorpal_The_Hexapod_Building_Instructions#Building_the_Gamepadd|the Vorpal Hexapod Gamepad Assembly instructions]].

{{Megapod Quick Links}}

Max The Megapod Assembly Instructions

2026-02-25T20:39:22Z

Vorpalwiki: /* Step 18: Trimming the Servos */

==IMPORTANT NOTES==
* This is an experimental project.
* It is not for first time robot builders. It contains powerful motors that can cause injury, and uses powerful batteries that require caution. If you are not very familiar with safety precautions for building large robots this project is not for you, build smaller robots instead.
* Never allow this project to sit idle with power on for more than a few minutes. Turn off power if it is not going to be immediately used. Holding the robot in a stress position for long periods of time may cause servo motors to burn out. Remove both batteries in the robot when not using. Never leave powerful batteries in the robot when not in use.
* Make sure the standing position of the robot is adjusted using the "trim" feature (see gamepad documentation) so that the stance is a bit on the "high" side to minimize stress on the motors when the robot is standing still, which can help prevent overheating. Failure to do so may cause premature failure of the servos. A good test is to see if the robot can maintain the standing position with power shut off. If it can, then the standing position will not be stressing the motors.
* If motors overheat, shut down power immediately and remove the large battery.
==BILL OF MATERIALS (BOM) FOR MAX THE MEGAPOD==
===Notes on Sourcing Parts Yourself===
* These instructions assume you have purchased a kit from us. If you are sourcing your own parts, please be aware of the following additional information:
**If you are sourcing your own parts, you need to build the power distribution connector assembly. For diagrams see [[Max The Megapod Battery/Switch Construction]]. This will take about 2 hours of soldering work.
**Also see important information on that page if you are sourcing your own BEC.
**If you are sourcing your own Bluetooth modules, please be aware that you will need to configure them to auto-pair and to have a UART speed of 38400 BAUD. Every module brand's firmware is a bit different so it's not possible for us to give you universal instructions on how to program them. We assume that if you source your own parts you are familiar with how to configure Bluetooth modules using AT-commands. (You can find tutorials online or videos on youtube, but like we said, different modules may not exactly match instructions you will find so be prepared to fiddle around a bit). Please do not ask our customer support for help on this topic. We sell pre-configured modules that auto-pair on boot for a very reasonable price.
**If you are sourcing your own Arduino Nano modules, you will need to flash the robot and gamepad code on them. You can find the code at the [https://github.com/vorpalrobotics/VorpalHexapod Vorpal Hexapod Repo on Github]. Note: there is no difference in software between the large and small versions of the hexapod.
* Please be very careful about substitutions. You might think you can substitute cheaper parts for the ones specified here. Don't bet on it. Walking robots are extremely difficult to design and we've chosen each part for a good reason. For example, if you try to substitute cheaper servos you are very likely to find that they don't provide enough torque for the robot to stand up, or they wear out within minutes due to being overstressed. If you substitute a different battery voltage, you'll either fry the servos or they won't have enough torque. It took 1000 hours of work to design the smaller hexapod on which this one is based, then another 500 hours to get the big version working well.
* Full kits of parts as well as individual parts are available on [http://vorpal-robotics-store.myshopify.com The Vorpal Robotics Store]. If you are new to Arduino and robotics we strongly recommend you purchase a kit instead of trying to self-source parts. The kits cut 3 to 4 hours off the build time, bringing it to typically 2 to 2.5 hours. The kits have all soldering done, programs are already loaded on the Nanos, Bluetooth modules are properly configured, and you know you have all the right parts to work together. About half the people who self-source parts end up buying parts that are incorrect or are so cheap that they will quickly fail (and they end up spending more money and far more time than if they had simply bought a kit to start with!)

=== ROBOT BOM ===
[[File:Choking-Hazard-Image.jpg|right|350px]]
[[File:PinchPoint-Warning.JPG|right|350px]]
* ''Electronics:''
** Passive Piezo Buzzer module and 3 wire cable (see image) [[File:Passive-Piezo-Buzzer-Module.jpg|right|thumb|Passive Piezo Buzzer Module]]
** Arduino Nano, 5V, 16 mHz, ATMEGA328 or similar (marked RM in our kit to indicate it is pre-loaded with megapod robot software)
** Rotary potentiometer, 10K Ohms, 6mm shaft diameter, with 3 wires pre-soldered. Also, matching dial cap and nut. If you are self-sourcing see our instructions: [[Max The Megapod Battery/Switch Construction]]
** 1 x HC05 BlueTooth Module with 4 x F-F jumper wires for making connections (Note: the HC05 has six pins but only four are used in this project. Also, this is in the Gamepad Parts bag if you purchase our kit.)
** 1 x Servo Controller module (Adafruit 16-channel 12-bit I2C PWM/Servo driver or Adafruit clone) with F-F jumper wires for making connections, plus 1 two-pin shunt tying V+ to VCC
** 12 x MG958 servo motors and associated servo horns (you will only use the single-arm horn). NOTE: our kits come with one extra servo as a spare, there are 13 in the kit but only 12 are needed. We recommend 25T size metal horns for the knee servos (the ones that insert into the legs). We provide six metal horns with our kits as of November 2019. The plastic horns will wear out on the knee servos after about 4 to 8 hours of use and their splines will strip.
** 1 x Power distribution wiring harness with DPST on/off switch, Fuse, Tamiya battery connector, 3A 5V BEC, and servo extension connectors. If you are self-sourcing see our wiring instructions: [[Max The Megapod Battery/Switch Construction|Circuit Diagrams]].
* ''3D Printed Parts:''
** 3 Robot Base Parts and bottom plate to hold the parts together.
** 3 Robot Base Covers (used to enclose wiring inside the Base).
** 4 Cap parts which screw together to form the cap of the robot.
** 6 x Legs
** 12 x Servo Stops. These parts hold the servos in their compartments both in the base and the legs.
** 12 x Leg Hinge halves with Leg Hinge Rings. The rings stop layer separation issues under stress.
** 1 x Electronics Caddy to hold nano and servo controller
** 2 x Eye/glasses Decoration
* Screws and Fasteners
** 12 x button head screw, M3 x 12mm long with M3 toothed lock washers (for servo horns)
** 6 x #6-32 x 7/8" socket head screws (to fasten together "bowl" of base and cap parts).
** 3 x #6-32 x 5/8" socket head screws (to fasten top of cap onto cap bowl)
** 12 x #6-32 x 1.5" socket head cap screws for securing servos in their sockets.
** 2 x #6-32 1” socket head screw (for accessory port)
** 2 x #6-32 0.75" socket head screw (for accessory port)
** 2 x #6 wingnut (for accessory port)
** 19 x #6 nut
** 19 x #6 toothed lock washer
** 9 x #6-32 7/8” socket head screws with lock washers (for fastening Base and Cap sections together)
* ''Miscellaneous:''
** 12 x 608 Skate Bearings
** 8 x 18mm diameter ceramic magnet, approximately 5mm thick, north pole marked. 6 are for robot top, 2 for eye/glasses decorations
** 1 x T handle hex driver, 2mm, for button head screws.
** 1 x T handle hex driver, 7/64" for socket head screws.
* Tools not included in the kit:
** Needle nose pliers are useful for holding the nuts while assembling BASE and CAP parts.
** Slip-pliers are useful for forcing skate bearings into their press-fit locations on the Leg Hinges
** Hot glue gun and glue sticks for securing magnets. You can also use cyanoacrylate glue (i.e. "super glue") or any glue that works on both plastic and metal.
** If you have an electric screwdriver this will make assembly of the servo stops much faster. You would need a 7/64" hex key attachment.
=== Batteries (not included in kit)===
Three batteries are needed for this project:
* Max uses a main battery pack consisting of a five-cell NIMH battery pack with a nominal voltage of 6.0 volts, a minimum of 4000 mAh capacity, 18 gauge or thicker wires, and a full size male Tamiya connector.
* Max also uses a secondary 9v battery through a 5V regulator to drive the electronics (Arduino, Bluetooth module, Servo driver, etc).
* A second 9v battery is needed for the gamepad.

We recommend rechargeable 9v batteries, they can be NIMN, LI-ON, or NICAD.

Make sure you have a compatible charger for all rechargeable batteries.

A main battery pack we have used with success is this one: [https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003WTSPHG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Dynamite 6.0v 5100 mAh NIMH Battery] although many others are available on the market. NOTE: we do not recommend going beyond 7500 mAh capacity as the weight of the battery will start to be too large past that point.

The battery specs should confirm that the main pack can output 5 amps continuously and can handle spikes to 10amps on an intermittent basis (5 seconds maximum). Most NIMH batteries at 4000 mAh or more will fulfill this requirement.

Note: we do not recommend substituting LI-ON batteries for the main pack on the Megapod, as they often cannot supply enough amps or will overheat under too high a load. We do not recommend NICAD batteries for environmental reasons. NIMH is really the perfect battery type for this application.

Many hobby and RC suppliers have cable converters to go from Tamiya connectors to other types (cross, XT60, etc.) so it is possible to use NIMH batteries with other kinds of connector if you can locate or construct a suitable adapter cable. If you construct your own battery conversion cable you must be extremely careful to do it properly, as batteries can be dangerous if connected improperly.

If you solder your own battery connectors observe extreme caution as NIMH batteries can discharge dangerously high amps. You are better off buying a battery with the right connector unless you are very familiar with soldering your own battery packs and understand the safety requirements for doing so.

=== GAMEPAD ===
The gamepad for Max The Megapod is identical to the gamepad for Vorpal The Hexapod. See instructions for the gamepad here: [[Vorpal_The_Hexapod_Building_Instructions#Building_the_Gamepadd|Vorpal The Hexapod Gamepad Assembly instructions]]

==Printing the Plastic Parts==

This section assumes you have basic familiarity with 3D printing and 3D printing terminology. If not, you might want to reference online materials such as youtube videos or information from your 3D printer manufacturer before attempting this project.

===OBTAINING THE STL FILES===
We have posted the STL files our public dropbox folder: [http://tinyurl.com/VORPALFILES VORPAL FILES]. Go to the STL folder, then the GAMEPAD and MEGAPOD folders have the files you need. (The same gamepad is shared among all our hexapod projects).

Please post your builds to places like Thingiverse, pictures to FaceBook, Instagram, etc., and videos of your robot to YouTube! This will help us grow and continue having the resources creating cool new projects for our community.

===MINIMUM PRINTER REQUIREMENTS===
*The bed size should be at least 200mm cube (about 8 inches cube). The largest parts are the megapod Base-1, Base-2, and Base-3 parts, so it is the limiting factor on bed size.
*A heated bed is strongly recommended, especially if you are printing in ABS.
*An enclosure is recommended, especially if printing in ABS.
===AMOUNT OF PLASTIC FILAMENT===
* About 2.5 kg of plastic are needed to print the entire robot and gamepad. This does not include accessories like Joust attachments, etc.
* The amount of plastic used does depend on plastic type and exact print settings though, so your mileage may vary.
===RECOMMENDED PLASTICS===
*ABS, PETG, and PLA all work well. However, because there are some very large parts, ABS may cause you some warping issues if you don't have a heated bed, enclosure, and a printer tuned well for large parts. PLA is generally easier and has fewer issues with corners peeling off the print bed.
*We use eSun PLA PRO for this project and for us it works very well. PLA PRO is a little more flexible and stronger than typical PLA. We have no problems with warping even on the largest parts.
*This project requires less flexibility than the smaller Vorpal The Hexapod project, so ABS is less required for this project.
===PRINTING TIPS===
This project has been finely tuned to make it easy to 3D print. No supports are required for any of the parts (there is a support built into the models for the CAP parts). In some cases you may want to use brims or rafts to help parts adhere to the print surface.

There is some significant bridging with some spans up to 30mm (1.2"). It is important to tune your printer and make sure it can handle the bridging before attempting the large parts. A little sagging is ok and a drip or two can be easily removed, but you need decent ability to bridge. There are bridge testing and calibration models posted on sites like Thingiverse that may help you tune your printer before trying the big parts.

====PRINT SETTINGS====
We print using the following settings on a Lulzbot TAZ 6 with 0.5mm nozzle:
* 0.4 layer thickness (or whatever layer thickness is the largest that will work on your printer)
* 2mm walls (i.e. four perimeters for a 0.5mm nozzle)
* 1.6 mm top and bottom (i.e. four layers at 0.4mm layer height)
* 25% infill
* You can print with thinner layers if your printer does not support 0.4mm layers or if you want a more refined look, it will just take longer. If you have a large nozzle (0.8mm or more) you should be able to go with bigger layers and save a lot of print time. Please report your findings to us at support@vorpalrobotics.com so we can advise future Makers of this project.
====BRIMS AND RAFTS====
* Brims or rafts are recommended for the following hexapod parts: Base, Legs, Cap. This ensures proper bed retention to avoid warping. These parts have relatively little contact area with the print bed, or have certain sections with little contact.
*If you have a very well dialed-in printer and have no issues with warping or corners curling up during prints, you can try them without brims. We don't use brims on anything but we've printed thousands of parts and we keep our printers very well tuned all the time with weekly maintenance and adjustments.
*These parts are large so if you don't use brims and things don't work out you might kill half a roll of plastic ... so maybe just use brims, it only adds a few minutes of cleanup time.
* Brims/rafts are not recommended on any of the other parts. The other parts generally have enough bed surface contact that they will print fine without brims. Your mileage may vary however and it is recommended that you keep a close eye on the first few layers of the print to make sure everything is sticking properly.
* We personally prefer brims over rafts (such as available in Cura and Simplify3D) as they are easy to remove and leave a clean look.
====POST PRINT====
Other than removing brims/rafts and the occasional drip, there is not any special post-processing required after printing. Some of the big bridges might seem a little saggy but generally speaking there's enough tolerance that this won't cause an issue. The biggest bridges are mostly hidden inside the robot so they won't affect cosmetics.

====PRO TIPS====
*Do routine maintenance on your printer before printing the big parts: lubricate rods and lead screws, check bed leveling, replace nozzle if worn, do a calibration print, clean your print surface, etc. A few minutes of preparation will help you nail these prints and make a project you can be very proud of!
*Print the large parts (Base, Cap) at the ''start'' of new spools. The last thing you want is to run out of filament 95% of the way through a big part.
*Print the smallest parts (servo stops, hinge rings, gamepad drawer) near the end of a spool.
*If you have a large format printer, it is tempting to kick off all three Base parts at once and let it run overnight. We would recommend against that--the chances of killing an entire spool of filament due to an overnight power hit or other failure is just not worth it. Take your time, do the big parts one by one. One or two during the day, one overnight. It will all get done soon enough. An extra couple of days won't matter in the long run.

== Building the Robot ==

You will need the following tools:
*Included in the kit:
** 2mm hex key. A 5/64 inch hex key will also work. This is in the Megapod Parts bag.
** 7/64 hex key at least 6" long (150mm). It needs to be long enough to reach screws through access holes in the Base and Cap. This is in the Megapod Parts Bag.
*Not included in the kit:
** Optional: A marker that can write on dark plastic and still be seen, such as Sharpie Metallic or Sharpie Oil markers (white and yellow work great on dark colored plastic, black or blue work well on light colored plastic). This can be used to make raised lettering on the robot and gamepad more visible.
** Optional: Needle nose pliers can be helpful for holding nuts in place while tightening screws.
** Optional: Slip-joint pliers can be helpful for forcing the skate bearings into their press-fit locations on the Leg Hinges
** Optional: An electric screwdriver with a 7/64" hex key attachment will greatly speed up the process of locking the servos in place using the servo stop parts. There are 12 long screws to insert. Do yourself a favor, electric screwdrivers are not expensive these days and are very handy.

===IMPORTANT WARNING: POWERFUL SERVOS MAY INJURE YOU===
The motors on Max the Megapod are very powerful compared to the smaller Vorpal the Hexapod project. It is possible for the leg motions to pinch fingers or even possibly break fingers or cause other injuries. When powering on the Megapod you must keep fingers clear of places where the legs/hips can come together. In case of electrical issues the legs may move unexpectedly. Turning the power off will release the motors. Never let small children play with the megapod or grab at it when it's walking or moving.

If the robot is moving in an out of control manner, use a pencil, book, or rod to hit the power switch, which is large and easy to turn off.

You must at all times take standard precautions that are typical with large robotic projects.

If you are building your own electrical system please do not skimp by skipping adding the fuse to the circuit. This project may draw significant amperage and fuse protection is required.

===Step by Step Instructions===
====STEP 1: Insert accessory port screws in the chassis====
This is easier to do before the Base is assembled into a single part.
* Insert 1" #6-32 socket head screws in the bottom two holes of the accessory port with the head of the screw inside the hexapod, then secure using lock washers and nuts outside. Repeat for the top two accessory holes with shorter 3/4" #6-32 socket head screws. Two wingnuts go on the two lower screws, these will be used to secure accessories such as the Jousting Lance.
<gallery mode=packed>
File:Accessory-Port-Diagram-V2.JPG|The accessory port is considered the "front" of the robot.
File:Accessory-Port-Screws.JPG|Longer socket head screws go on the bottom. Do not overtighten the nuts.
File:Wing-Nuts-Installed.JPG|After installing the nuts, put the wingnuts on the bottom screws. They'll be used later to secure accessories.
</gallery>

====STEP 2: Build the BASE====
* STEP 1A: Take the three outer parts of the base (STL files: Base-1, Base-2, Base-3) and arrange them to form the "bowl" of the base. Make sure the servo numbers are in the right order as you move clockwise around the three parts! It's possible to assemble them in the wrong order if you don't check.
* STEP 1B: There are matching screw holes positioned on little rectangular outcroppings on the inside of the top ring, these require screws to bind the three parts together. Use three 7/8 inch socket head screws, toothed lock washers, and nuts to secure them. There is an access hole in the rim of the robot to allow the hex key to turn the screw. You may need to hold the nut in place using needle-nose pliers. Repeat for all three sections.
<gallery mode=packed heights=250>
File:Base-Exploded-View.JPG|Line up the three main pieces of the base, ensuring the servo numbers are in order.
File:Access-Hole-In-Base.jpg|Small access holes are strategically placed around the base so the hex key can turn the screws to secure the three base pieces.
File:Securing-Base-Sections.jpg|Use the access hole in the Base parts to secure screws that bind the three base parts together.
File:Megapod-Foam-Squares.jpg|Peel the backing off the foam squares that came with the kit and attach them to the bottom of the base. Stack them on top of each other.
</gallery>
* STEP 1C: Take the Base Bottom part and place it inside the base. There is a nub in one place that will only allow it to be inserted in one orientation. Use 5/8" screws in the outer ring of holes in the bottom to secure it to the base. The head of the screw should be on the outside of the robot and nuts should secure the screws on the inside. NOTE: There are six outer ring holes, however you only need three of them (one in each base section) to secure the robot. Early versions of the kit only had three 5/8" screws.
* STEP 1D: Take the foam squares that came in your kit and stick them on the bottom of the robot. (Build up several layers, they stick to each other.) These foam pads will reduce the shock and stress on the robot when it goes down to the floor on certain dance moves. Without these pads, the robot leg servos and body structure may undergo too much stress.

====STEP 3: Install the electrical system in the base====
* STEP 3A: Take the potentiometer and remove its dial cap, then unscrew the nut and set these items aside for now (don't lose them). Push the potentiometer shaft from the inside of the chassis into the hole that is surrounded by the markings "STOP", "TST", etc. The wires coming out of the potentiometer should be pointing down. The little metal nub sticking out of the potentiometer should match with a tiny rectangular hole that is near the marking "TST". Put the retaining nut on the potentiometer, hand tighten first and then give it just another half turn or so with pliers if desired. Turn the knob all the way counter-clockwise, then insert the knob so it points to the letter "O" in the word "STOP".
* STEP 3B: Take the large DPST on/off switch (which is attached to the battery holder and power distribution assembly) and thread the switch wires from the inside through the gap at the bottom of the switch hole (see picture). Carefully push the wires one by one through the slot below the switch hole. Once all the wires are through, push the switch into the switch hole. It should be oriented with the "1" to the right. Press carefully into the hole, it should snap firmly in place.
** If the fit is too tight to get the switch in place, lightly sanding or filing the hole to make it a tiny bit larger should work.
<gallery mode=packed heights=200>
File:Switch-Insert-1.jpg|Thread the switch and its wires through the Base, there is an opening under the switch hole.
File:Switch-Insert-2.jpg|Bring the wires up through the small gap below the switch hole. Be careful with the large wires, they require some pressure or some flexing of the plastic to get through.
File:Switch-Insert-3.jpg|All the wires are now coming through the switch hole.
File:Switch-Insert-4.jpg|Press the switch into the hole, it should snap into place. The "1" should be to the right.
</gallery>

====STEP 4: Insert servos in the chassis====
* Next, insert the servo into the chassis as shown in the diagrams below. As you insert the servo into the chassis, slowly press it straight into place until it fully seats. Use a servo stopper and one 1.5 inch #6 socket screw to secure the servos in place. Use the hole nearest to the front of the servo. NOTE: There are two holes in the Servo Stop but we have found that one screw is enough to hold it. The second hole could be used if you find that the plastic you use tears through the hole. We have not seen this but we added the second hole just in case.
<gallery mode=packed heights=250>
File:Servo-in-Base-2.jpg|Insert each servo with the wire coming out away from the robot as shown here. Press in completely.
File:Servo-in-Base-3.jpg|Insert a servo stopper (shown in red) and secure with one 1.5" screw in the hole nearest the front (the servo shaft and horn is in the front). Thread the wire into the body of the robot through the hole as shown.
</gallery>

====STEP 5: Insert the servos in the Legs====
The technique is very similar to inserting the servo into the chassis.
*Insert the servo straight into the leg socket so that the wire is coming out of the servo facing away from the plastic leg and the face of the servo with the shaft and servo horn goes into the open faced side of the leg, as shown in the diagram.
*Secure the servo in place with a servo stopper and one 1.5 inch screw as you did with the hip servos in the base. NOTE: There are two holes in the stopper but we have found that one screw is enough to hold it. The second hole could be used if you find that the plastic you use tears through the hole. We have not seen this but we added the second hole just in case.
*The servos in the legs are called the "knee" servos. Each leg has a higher number on it, this is the knee number, they run from 6 to 11. Again, write this number on the black connector at the end of the servo wire. PRO TIP: For 6 and 9, underline the number so you don't read them upside down!
<gallery mode=packed heights=200>
File:Servo-Insert-Leg-v2.png|Insert Servos in Legs
File:Servo-Leg-Inserted-v2.png|Push until fully seated
File:Servo-Stopper-In-Leg.jpg|Use the servo stopper and two screws to lock the servo in place
</gallery>

*Thread each leg servo wire into the bottom wire guide slot on the chassis. Each leg servo should be matched with a hip servo plus 6. The legs are marked with the hip number near the top and the knee number below that. For example, the leg marked 6 should be threaded through the wire guide on hip servo 0, leg 7 goes with hip 1, leg 8 goes with hip 2, etc. Add 6 to the hip number to get the leg number.

====STEP 6: Plug in the Servos====
Thread the servo wires into the chassis using the routing holes, as you did with the hip servos. The power distribution harness has marked servo extension sockets for each servo. Each hip servo is marked on the BASE showing its number. the knee servo for each hip is numbered six higher than its corresponding hip. For example, hip servo number 3 will be attached to knee servo number 9, because 3+6=9.

When plugging the servos in, make sure you match the light yellow servo wire to the white servo extension wire, and the dark brown servo wire should match with the black servo extension wire.

====STEP 7: Make Robot Electrical Connections====

Now use the diagram below in the electrical section to make the rest of the robot's electrical connections. You'll be using the Robot Arduino Nano (marked "R"), the Servo Driver, Bluetooth Module marked "S", the buzzer, and a bunch of jumper wires. Make sure you use the longer jumper wires for the SDA and SCL connections between the Nano and the Servo Driver.

====STEP 8: Assemble the leg hinges====
[[File:Servo-Bracket-Alignment-v1.png|thumb|350px|right|Align the leg hinges as shown here. The bumps (see arrows) should both be near each other when properly aligned. Hold one in each hand with the ends of the U shape between thumb and forefinger.]]
Each leg hinge is composed of two identical U-shaped parts. Take one in each hand and align the two so that the bump (shown in the diagram at the right) are both near each other. Turn one 90 degrees with respect to the other.
*Gently squeeze each piece between thumb and forefinger, which causes the little jaws in the center to open up slightly. Work the two halves together. Keep squeezing harder until the ends slide into place. NOTE: Make sure you printed version V1r2b or later. Earlier versions made it too difficult to squeeze the parts into place. If you printed an earlier version, you may need to trim some plastic using angle cutters to get the parts together.
*If you used PLA and are finding it hard to bend, briefly soaking the pieces in very hot tap water has been reported to make it easier. Take care not to scald yourself, the water does not have to be boiling, just hot from the tap. You only need to dip the ends that will lock over each other, not the parts you will squeeze. Use caution.
*At this stage, you may notice that the parts are loosely clamped on each other (this depends on plastic used and whether your printer over- or under-extrudes). Don't worry! When you place the leg hinges over a servo, the servo will spread it apart and they will lock together tightly.
*Insert a 608 skate bearing into the socket on one side of the leg hinges. Pliers may be necessary to press them into place. Make sure you clean up any drips inside the recessed area for the skate bearing before attempting to insert the bearings.

====STEP 9: Attach Leg Hinges====
The leg hinges connect the hips to the knees. They only go on one way. If you made sure to align the bumps when assembling the leg hinges, this will result in correct orientation of all legs.
*First place the end that matches the servo horn on about halfway. Make sure the servo horn slides under the little pocket at the end of recessed area that accepts the horn.
*Very slightly bend the U shaped piece while pulling the skate bearing side over the hemispherical bump on the other side of the servo holding area. It's a little easier to do the knees (servos mounted to legs) first, followed by the hips (servos on base).
*NOTE: It will be a tight fit, but it should not be excessively difficult to push the hinge over the hemispherical bearing. If you find you are struggling, that means the hinges are too tight. This may affect walking. This can be due to the kind of plastic you used or how your printer is adjusted. You may need to gently spread the two legs of the U shape by hand before putting the hinge on the robot. Be careful of course not to break the hinge.
*When completed, double check to make sure the servo horn went into the covered pocket at the end of its recessed area. This pocket keeps the horn from slipping out of the hinge during stressful operations.

====STEP 10: Enclose the electronics modules in their caddies====

Now things look pretty messy with all those wires hanging loose, let's clean it up by stowing the Arduino Nano, Bluetooth module and Servo Driver in their caddies. The caddies will keep them safe by making sure they can't short out against each other or touch screws, etc.
* '''STEP 10A: Insert Caddy Bars''' Insert the electronics caddy bars as shown in the diagrams below. Notice carefully how they are inserted. Don't insert them upside down, the little hump should be facing inward toward the caddy. You may need to slightly squeeze the forked section at the end to work it into the hole. Once inside, it may be difficult to remove because it will snap into place, so be sure you're putting it in the right way.
<gallery mode=packed heights=300>
File:Insert-Caddy-Bar-1.jpg|Insertion of the caddy bar into the Nano caddy. Notice the orientation, don't put the bar in upside down. The same technique is used for the Servo Driver Caddy.
</gallery>
* '''STEP 10B: Insert the Arduino Nano into its caddy''' Carefully insert the Nano as shown, making sure you don't pull out any of the wires. You may need to wiggle the caddy bar from side to side a bit so that components can slide past it during insertion. Notice that the end of the Nano that has the USB port must go in last.

<gallery mode=packed heights=250>
File:Insert-Nano-In-Caddy-1.jpg|Insert the Nano in the orientation shown.
File:Insert-Nano-In-Caddy-2.jpg|You may need to wiggle it a bit or press on the bar to work it into place.
File:Insert-Nano-In-Caddy-3.jpg|Note how the USB port is accessible through the top after full insertion.
</gallery>

* '''STEP 10C: Insert the Servo Driver into its caddy''' Carefully insert the Servo Driver as shown, making sure you don't pull out any of the wires. You may need to wiggle the caddy bar from side to side a bit so that components can slide past it during insertion. Notice that the end of the Servo controller with wires sticking out of it must go in last.

<gallery mode=packed heights=200>
File:Insert-ServoDriver-In-Caddy-1.jpg|Insert the Servo Driver in the orientation shown.
File:Insert-ServoDriver-In-Caddy-2.jpg|You may need to wiggle it a bit or press on the bar to work it into place.
File:Insert-ServoDriver-In-Caddy-3.jpg|Note that the end with the wires goes in last.
</gallery>

* '''STEP 10D: Insert the HC05 Bluetooth Module''' The diagrams here do not show the wires to make them easier to visualize. The HC05 Bluetooth module with a name beginning with "S" should be used for the robot. For example, the label will read something like "VORP S2944" (the number will differ). The one marked "M" will be used for the gamepad. Slide the HC05 into the side drawer as shown. When inserting, be careful not to pull out the wires, which will be a little tight. Work the wires into the little space provided so they stay clear of the robot's cap when it gets screwed on later.

<gallery mode=packed heights=250>
File:Insert-HC05-in-Caddy-1.jpg|Insert the HC05 into the side drawer of the Nano Caddy as shown.
File:Insert-HC05-in-Caddy-2.jpg|When fully inserted, the indicator light will still be visible through the small oval.
File:Insert-HC05-in-Caddy-3.jpg|The wires should be tucked into the little cavity near the pins of the HC05.
</gallery>

====STEP 11: Power up!====
Make sure the on/off switch is off, and the knob is turned to STOP. Insert batteries and power on the robot using the on/off switch. You should hear a beep, a pause, then a second beep. The servos should all twitch into position. If the robot does not move at all, immediately turn the switch off and check your connections again. If some of the servos don't move then gently push them with power off to see if you can free them up. If they still won't move, try pushing them with power applied, but turn off the power within 30 seconds if they're locked up. If you can't get the servo to move it will need to be replaced.

[[File:Servo-Horn-Orientation.png|thumb|right|The servo horn should come straight out from the body at a 90 degree angle as shown here. Do not turn the servo shaft by hand until after it has moved under power!]]

====STEP 12: Insert Servo Horns====
The servo horns are all at random angles right now due to the servo pre-check. In this step we'll make them point in the right direction. The knee servos are not at 90 degrees when the knob is all the way counter clockwise, rather they are at a 30 degree standing angle.

We need to get them to 90 degrees so its easy to align the servo horn, and this is done by going into "Adjust Mode". Turn the knob very slightly clockwise until you hear a beep, then stop. After about one second you will see all the knee servos twitch. This is "adjust servo horn mode". All servos (knees and hips) are now at their halfway point, 90 degrees.

Now you need to take each single arm servo horn and carefully insert it on the shaft so that it is sticking straight out as shown in the figure. You will not always be able to make the horn come totally straight out. This is because there are only 22 little groves (splines) in each shaft, meaning you can in general only come within about 8 degrees of being at a perfect 90 degree angle. This amount of error is acceptable for now, just get it as close as you can. Later we'll use Trim Mode to make fine adjustments.

====STEP 13: Test Knee Positions====
Turn the knob fully counter clockwise (to STOP) and the robot will go into "stand still" mode. Place it on a level surface such as a table top. Do all of the legs touch the ground? If one or more legs don't touch the ground, you need to adjust the servo horn on the knee a little bit so it does touch. Gently pull off the servo bracket. Pull the servo horn off, and put it back on just a little bit moved so the leg would move closer to the ground. Put the servo bracket back on, and see how it looks. Do this until all legs are at least slightly touching the ground. Again, you can't necessarily be perfect due to the 8 degree increments the servo horns can be moved. But you should be able to be close enough that all legs at least slightly touch the ground.

====STEP 14: Insert Servo Screws====
Now that the legs are adjusted, you can insert the M3x12 screws (with M3 lock washers) into the servo horns to lock them in place. Note that you will NOT be using the screws that were in the little bag the servos came in, you'll be using the separate pack of screws, which are longer than the ones in the servo bag. Do not overtighten these screws, as you could possibly crack the servo brackets. Just turn the screws until you start to feel resistance, then turn a quarter turn more and stop.

====STEP 14: Test the Servos====
*'''STEP 14A: Using TST Mode'''
**To test whether every servo is working, put the robot on something that will lift its legs off the table top, but won't interfere with the legs (a small box, etc.).
**Start with the knob on STOP, then slowly turn it clockwise. You'll hear one beep (Adjust mode), then a second beep (Test mode). Stop turning and the robot will go into "individual servo test mode". In this mode, every hip servo will move, one by one. When all the hips have moved, every leg will move, one by one. You should see every servo move, in order. If some don't move, check your connections. A common error is to plug a servo connector into the servo controller backwards (i.e. the brown wire is matched with the yellow pin instead of the black pin). If the servos do not move in a sensible order, that probably means you plugged a couple of servos into the wrong sockets in the electrical harness.

*'''STEP 14B: Test Using Demo Mode'''
**Ok, everything looks good, so time for a full test. Turn the knob to STOP, then put the robot on the floor, somewhere that has at least a few feet of room in each direction. (Caution: it's tempting to do this on a table top, but unless you have a huge table this is not advisable, Max will run pretty fast at some points during the demo.)
**Turn the knob to DEMO, and about one second later the robot will go through a series of movements to demonstrate some of the things it can do. The full demo only takes about 30 seconds, then repeats. Here, you are looking for the robot to, for example, be able to get back up off the floor after doing some of its dance moves.
**If the robot struggles to get off the floor, you may have a battery that is not fully charged, or there may be drips or other obstructions stopping some legs from moving fully. See the [[Vorpal Combat_Hexapod Troubleshooting Guide|Trouble Shooting Guide]] for more information about different kinds of issues that can occur. That guide was written for the small robot, but most of the things that can go wrong with Max the Megapod are identical to the things that can go wrong with Vorpal The Hexapod.

====STEP 15: Store electronics and wires in the Base====
Carefully stow the caddies into the base, using any available convenient space. Arrange the servo and other wires so they don't cross any screw holes. The three Base Cover parts can be used to secure everything, however you may not want to put in more than one screw each at this point, until the robot is more fully tested. Be sure the two battery connectors come through the holes provided for them in the Cover parts.
<gallery mode=packed heights=250>
File:All-Electronics-Inserted-In-Base.jpg|Carefully stow the caddies into the base, being careful not to pull out any wires. Press servo wires into place too, make sure they don't overlap any screw holes.
File:Base-Covers-3.jpg|Place the three covers in place. It is not necessary to screw them down at this point, you may want to wait until the robot is more fully tested. We normally just put in one screw on each component at this point--this makes it easy to get back into the electronics if something needs to be checked.
</gallery>

====STEP 16: Assemble the Cap====
*'''STEP 16A: Assemble the Four Cap Parts'''
**First assemble the three large pieces after removing the support coming out of the center. Be aware that there is a correct ordering to them, the two flaps that stick out near the bottom need to be opposite each other so the cap can slot into the Base and lock in place. Use 7/8" screws to secure the three parts together as shown. There are access holes around the rim that allow the hex key to reach the screws. Use nuts and locking washers to secure the screws.
**Secure the top of the cap onto the bottom three pieces using three 5/8" #6 socket screws and their associated nuts and toothed lock washers.
<gallery mode=packed heights=250>
File:Cap-Exploded.JPG|Arrangement of the four Cap parts. Note that this diagram shows the support in place, this should actually be removed prior to assembly.
File:CAP-Assembly-order.JPG|Make sure the two flaps at the rim are opposite each other when ordering the three main parts.
</gallery>
* '''STEP 16B: Put magnets in the Cap''' Insert a magnet in each magnet holder in the cap. The magnets are marked with a dot on the North pole side. It is important that this dot be showing after installation. In other words, insert the magnet with the non-dot side down. The magnet is about 2mm smaller in diameter than the hole, so you will need to use hot glue (or some other kind of glue that works on metal and plastic) to secure it.
* '''STEP 16C: Decorate''' If desired, use a permanent marker to color the Vorpal "V" on top of the Cap. Oil markers work well. On light colors of plastic a black permanent marker will also work.
* '''STEP 16D: Put Cap on the Hexapod'''
**Screw the cap on the robot by lining up the tabs with the matching slots in the rim of the base. Turn the cap clockwise to lock it in place. IMPORTANT: Do not press down on the robot to insert the cap when the robot is under power standing on its legs! You can damage the leg motors by doing this. It is best to turn the robot off, and either support the bottom of the Base with one hand and press the Cap on with the other, or set the Base down on the table top or floor with legs out to the sides so they don't take pressure.
**If the cap is too loose and swivels while the robot moves, this can be fixed by putting a bit of tape on the cap's flaps to make them a little thicker. The tightness of the cap depends a lot on printer settings, over- or under-extrusion, etc.

====STEP 17: Warning Label====
There are two a self-stick choking hazard warning labels in the hexapod parts bag. Peel the backing off one of them and place it on the bottom of the robot, near the center. Retain the second label for the gamepad.

==== Step 18: Trimming the Servos ====
EXTREMELY IMPORTANT: This project works best if the servos are trimmed such that in the standing position the robot is in a fairly "high" position. This will minimize stress on the servos when the robot is in a standing position or performing most walking moves. This will reduce overheating and premature failure of the servos. A good test is: if the robot is in standing position and you turn off the main power, does it fall quickly to the floor, or does it keep standing, or at least slowly drift down to the floor. If it falls quickly, that means the servos will be working hard even when the robot is standing still, and that means they will get hotter and hotter even when the robot does nothing. In any case, even if properly trimmed, don't leave the robot on if you're not actively using it. Turn off main power if you will not use it for a time, or remove the main battery if use is completed for a long period of time.

When you assembled the servo horns onto the servos, you probably were not able to get them all to come out exactly at a 90 degree angle. That's not your fault: the servo horns only have 22 possible positions in which they can be installed, so at best you can come within plus or minus 8 degrees of perfection.

Now that you have the gamepad working, you can make fine adjustments to the servo positions using "Trim Mode". In this special gamepad mode, you can adjust all the servos. These adjustments are saved in the robot's EEPROM, which is memory on the Nano that retains data even when powered off. So, you only need to trim once.

Complete instructions on how to use trim mode are in the wiki page: [[Vorpal The Hexapod Trim Mode Guide]]. That guide was written for the smaller robot, but the instructions are identical for Max the Megapod.

NOTE: although this step is optional, it is recommended because your robot will walk straighter and all the servos will share equally in lifting the robot's weight, which will make them last longer.

====Step 19: Assembling Eye Decorations====
Glue a magnet into the magnet hole on both sets of eyes. The magnet should have the marked side face down, not showing.

You can use hot glue, "superglue" or any other kind of glue that works on plastic and metal.

==Electrical Connections: Robot==

===NOTES ON JUMPER WIRES===

====Wire Lengths====
There are two different lengths of female-female Dupont jumper wires used to make most connections. The longer ones (20cm) are only used for the Hexapod's accessory port connections. The shorter ones are used for all the connections on the Gamepad and all the connections on the Hexapod between the Arduino Nano, Servo controller and Bluetooth module.

====Wire Color Conventions====

Please follow these conventions when selecting wire colors:
* For +5V, Vin, and similar positive voltage connections, use either RED or ORANGE.
* For GND and other negative electrical connections, use BLACK or BROWN.
* For the connectors that sit at the mouth of the accessory port (used for optional sensors) colors are suggested below in the instructions. By following these suggestions you will make your life easier when connecting sensors!
* For all other connections, you can use any color you want, it's arbitrary.

====If Jumper Wires Are Too Loose====
Sometimes you will find a wire whose connector does not grip the pin well enough. It might fall off very easily or just by gravity alone. If that happens, you have a few options:
* There are extra wires in your kit. If you find a wire that's too loose, just use a different wire.
* Using the hex key, you can put the jumper housing on a flat surface then press on the metal showing through the plastic connector, which will tighten up the jumper wire's grip. Don't go too overboard on pressing though or you might make it too hard to insert.
* Alternatively, you could use electrical tape after inserting all the wires on a module (such as the Nano) to effectively attach together all the little plastic female connector housings. In that way, the connectors that do grip will help hold in the ones that are too loose. Some people also like using hot glue for this purpose. (Personally, I don't like using hot glue, as it makes it harder to change connections if you hooked something up incorrectly.)

===NANO PIN CONNECTIONS===
[[File:Megapod-Nano-Connections-v1.JPG|thumb|600px|right|Diagram of Nano connections for the Hexapod. Jumpers marked AP are routed to the Accessory Port for use with add-ons like sensors. Click for larger image.]]
* ''Digital IO Pins:''
** D0, D1 are reserved because they are used for uploading programs to the robot, so nothing will be connected there.
** D2, D3 No connection.
** D4 Buzzer Signal (white wire)
** D5 through D13 No connection. These pins are reserved for future expansion.

* ''Analog Pins:''
** A0 Potentiometer signal (white wire)
** A1 Potentiometer Power (red wire)
** A2 Potentiometer Ground (black wire)
** A3 No connection.
** A4 Servo Controller SDA
** A5 Servo Controller SCL
** A6, A7 No connection.

* ''Power Pins:''
** +5V pin on Nano connects to any of the +5V RED wires coming from the BEC on the power distribution harness.
** GND pin on Nano connects to any of the GND BLACK wires coming from the BEC on the power distribution harness.

===Servo Driver Power Pins===
* Port 0 RED pin on the Servo Driver connects to any of the +5V RED wires coming from the BEC on the power distribution harness.
* Port 0 BLACK GND pin on the Servo Driver connects to any of the GND BLACK wires coming from the BEC on the power distribution harness.

=== Bluetooth Module Power ===
* +5V on HC05 connects to any RED Dupont connector coming off the BEC.
* GND on HC05 connects to any BLACK Dupont connector coming off the BEC.

=== Buzzer Power ===
* Plug the buzzer into the unused port 15 on the servo driver, making sure the red and black wires on the buzzer power match the red and black rows of pins on the servo driver.

=== Servo Driver ===
[[File:Megapod-ServoDriverConnections.jpg|thumb|600px|right|Diagram of Servo Controller pins you will use in this project. Each servo motor has a 3 wire connector that should be plugged into the corresponding servo number extension connector in the power distribution harness. The white wires coming out of the harness in groups of four should be connected to the yellow line or ports, matching the number ranges to port numbers. Note that the black and red rows of pins are not used, power is provided to the servos through the power distribution harness. Click for larger image.]]
* Connect the 12 servos to power distribution harness connectors marked with port numbers corresponding to the servo marking (0 to 11). Make sure the signal wire (yellow) is oriented correctly and matches the yellow plastic header pin.
* Connect the groups of four white wires which are marked with servo port numbers to the Servo Driver yellow pins, matching the Servo Driver pin number to the port numbers written on the 4-pin Dupont connectors coming out of the power distribution harness.
* Connect one of the +5V RED regulated BEC outputs to the RED port 0 pin of the Servo Driver. Connect one of the GND black pins coming out of the BEC to the BLACK port 0 GND pin on the Servo Driver.
* On one short side of the Servo Controller you will find a VCC and V+ pin right next to each other. Use a shunt (small black connector that goes over two pins) to connect those together if one is not already installed. Without this shunt the Servo Driver will not work.
* SDA and SCL go to A4 and A5 on the Nano, respectively.



== Building the Gamepad ==
The gamepad for Max The Megapod is identical to the Gamepad for Vorpal The Hexapod.

Please see instructions on [[Vorpal_The_Hexapod_Building_Instructions#Building_the_Gamepadd|the Vorpal Hexapod Gamepad Assembly instructions]].

{{Megapod Quick Links}}

Max The Megapod Assembly Instructions

2026-02-25T20:34:17Z

Vorpalwiki: /* BILL OF MATERIALS (BOM) FOR MAX THE MEGAPOD */

==IMPORTANT NOTES==
* This is an experimental project.
* It is not for first time robot builders. It contains powerful motors that can cause injury, and uses powerful batteries that require caution. If you are not very familiar with safety precautions for building large robots this project is not for you, build smaller robots instead.
* Never allow this project to sit idle with power on for more than a few minutes. Turn off power if it is not going to be immediately used. Holding the robot in a stress position for long periods of time may cause servo motors to burn out. Remove both batteries in the robot when not using. Never leave powerful batteries in the robot when not in use.
* Make sure the standing position of the robot is adjusted using the "trim" feature (see gamepad documentation) so that the stance is a bit on the "high" side to minimize stress on the motors when the robot is standing still, which can help prevent overheating. Failure to do so may cause premature failure of the servos. A good test is to see if the robot can maintain the standing position with power shut off. If it can, then the standing position will not be stressing the motors.
* If motors overheat, shut down power immediately and remove the large battery.
==BILL OF MATERIALS (BOM) FOR MAX THE MEGAPOD==
===Notes on Sourcing Parts Yourself===
* These instructions assume you have purchased a kit from us. If you are sourcing your own parts, please be aware of the following additional information:
**If you are sourcing your own parts, you need to build the power distribution connector assembly. For diagrams see [[Max The Megapod Battery/Switch Construction]]. This will take about 2 hours of soldering work.
**Also see important information on that page if you are sourcing your own BEC.
**If you are sourcing your own Bluetooth modules, please be aware that you will need to configure them to auto-pair and to have a UART speed of 38400 BAUD. Every module brand's firmware is a bit different so it's not possible for us to give you universal instructions on how to program them. We assume that if you source your own parts you are familiar with how to configure Bluetooth modules using AT-commands. (You can find tutorials online or videos on youtube, but like we said, different modules may not exactly match instructions you will find so be prepared to fiddle around a bit). Please do not ask our customer support for help on this topic. We sell pre-configured modules that auto-pair on boot for a very reasonable price.
**If you are sourcing your own Arduino Nano modules, you will need to flash the robot and gamepad code on them. You can find the code at the [https://github.com/vorpalrobotics/VorpalHexapod Vorpal Hexapod Repo on Github]. Note: there is no difference in software between the large and small versions of the hexapod.
* Please be very careful about substitutions. You might think you can substitute cheaper parts for the ones specified here. Don't bet on it. Walking robots are extremely difficult to design and we've chosen each part for a good reason. For example, if you try to substitute cheaper servos you are very likely to find that they don't provide enough torque for the robot to stand up, or they wear out within minutes due to being overstressed. If you substitute a different battery voltage, you'll either fry the servos or they won't have enough torque. It took 1000 hours of work to design the smaller hexapod on which this one is based, then another 500 hours to get the big version working well.
* Full kits of parts as well as individual parts are available on [http://vorpal-robotics-store.myshopify.com The Vorpal Robotics Store]. If you are new to Arduino and robotics we strongly recommend you purchase a kit instead of trying to self-source parts. The kits cut 3 to 4 hours off the build time, bringing it to typically 2 to 2.5 hours. The kits have all soldering done, programs are already loaded on the Nanos, Bluetooth modules are properly configured, and you know you have all the right parts to work together. About half the people who self-source parts end up buying parts that are incorrect or are so cheap that they will quickly fail (and they end up spending more money and far more time than if they had simply bought a kit to start with!)

=== ROBOT BOM ===
[[File:Choking-Hazard-Image.jpg|right|350px]]
[[File:PinchPoint-Warning.JPG|right|350px]]
* ''Electronics:''
** Passive Piezo Buzzer module and 3 wire cable (see image) [[File:Passive-Piezo-Buzzer-Module.jpg|right|thumb|Passive Piezo Buzzer Module]]
** Arduino Nano, 5V, 16 mHz, ATMEGA328 or similar (marked RM in our kit to indicate it is pre-loaded with megapod robot software)
** Rotary potentiometer, 10K Ohms, 6mm shaft diameter, with 3 wires pre-soldered. Also, matching dial cap and nut. If you are self-sourcing see our instructions: [[Max The Megapod Battery/Switch Construction]]
** 1 x HC05 BlueTooth Module with 4 x F-F jumper wires for making connections (Note: the HC05 has six pins but only four are used in this project. Also, this is in the Gamepad Parts bag if you purchase our kit.)
** 1 x Servo Controller module (Adafruit 16-channel 12-bit I2C PWM/Servo driver or Adafruit clone) with F-F jumper wires for making connections, plus 1 two-pin shunt tying V+ to VCC
** 12 x MG958 servo motors and associated servo horns (you will only use the single-arm horn). NOTE: our kits come with one extra servo as a spare, there are 13 in the kit but only 12 are needed. We recommend 25T size metal horns for the knee servos (the ones that insert into the legs). We provide six metal horns with our kits as of November 2019. The plastic horns will wear out on the knee servos after about 4 to 8 hours of use and their splines will strip.
** 1 x Power distribution wiring harness with DPST on/off switch, Fuse, Tamiya battery connector, 3A 5V BEC, and servo extension connectors. If you are self-sourcing see our wiring instructions: [[Max The Megapod Battery/Switch Construction|Circuit Diagrams]].
* ''3D Printed Parts:''
** 3 Robot Base Parts and bottom plate to hold the parts together.
** 3 Robot Base Covers (used to enclose wiring inside the Base).
** 4 Cap parts which screw together to form the cap of the robot.
** 6 x Legs
** 12 x Servo Stops. These parts hold the servos in their compartments both in the base and the legs.
** 12 x Leg Hinge halves with Leg Hinge Rings. The rings stop layer separation issues under stress.
** 1 x Electronics Caddy to hold nano and servo controller
** 2 x Eye/glasses Decoration
* Screws and Fasteners
** 12 x button head screw, M3 x 12mm long with M3 toothed lock washers (for servo horns)
** 6 x #6-32 x 7/8" socket head screws (to fasten together "bowl" of base and cap parts).
** 3 x #6-32 x 5/8" socket head screws (to fasten top of cap onto cap bowl)
** 12 x #6-32 x 1.5" socket head cap screws for securing servos in their sockets.
** 2 x #6-32 1” socket head screw (for accessory port)
** 2 x #6-32 0.75" socket head screw (for accessory port)
** 2 x #6 wingnut (for accessory port)
** 19 x #6 nut
** 19 x #6 toothed lock washer
** 9 x #6-32 7/8” socket head screws with lock washers (for fastening Base and Cap sections together)
* ''Miscellaneous:''
** 12 x 608 Skate Bearings
** 8 x 18mm diameter ceramic magnet, approximately 5mm thick, north pole marked. 6 are for robot top, 2 for eye/glasses decorations
** 1 x T handle hex driver, 2mm, for button head screws.
** 1 x T handle hex driver, 7/64" for socket head screws.
* Tools not included in the kit:
** Needle nose pliers are useful for holding the nuts while assembling BASE and CAP parts.
** Slip-pliers are useful for forcing skate bearings into their press-fit locations on the Leg Hinges
** Hot glue gun and glue sticks for securing magnets. You can also use cyanoacrylate glue (i.e. "super glue") or any glue that works on both plastic and metal.
** If you have an electric screwdriver this will make assembly of the servo stops much faster. You would need a 7/64" hex key attachment.
=== Batteries (not included in kit)===
Three batteries are needed for this project:
* Max uses a main battery pack consisting of a five-cell NIMH battery pack with a nominal voltage of 6.0 volts, a minimum of 4000 mAh capacity, 18 gauge or thicker wires, and a full size male Tamiya connector.
* Max also uses a secondary 9v battery through a 5V regulator to drive the electronics (Arduino, Bluetooth module, Servo driver, etc).
* A second 9v battery is needed for the gamepad.

We recommend rechargeable 9v batteries, they can be NIMN, LI-ON, or NICAD.

Make sure you have a compatible charger for all rechargeable batteries.

A main battery pack we have used with success is this one: [https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003WTSPHG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Dynamite 6.0v 5100 mAh NIMH Battery] although many others are available on the market. NOTE: we do not recommend going beyond 7500 mAh capacity as the weight of the battery will start to be too large past that point.

The battery specs should confirm that the main pack can output 5 amps continuously and can handle spikes to 10amps on an intermittent basis (5 seconds maximum). Most NIMH batteries at 4000 mAh or more will fulfill this requirement.

Note: we do not recommend substituting LI-ON batteries for the main pack on the Megapod, as they often cannot supply enough amps or will overheat under too high a load. We do not recommend NICAD batteries for environmental reasons. NIMH is really the perfect battery type for this application.

Many hobby and RC suppliers have cable converters to go from Tamiya connectors to other types (cross, XT60, etc.) so it is possible to use NIMH batteries with other kinds of connector if you can locate or construct a suitable adapter cable. If you construct your own battery conversion cable you must be extremely careful to do it properly, as batteries can be dangerous if connected improperly.

If you solder your own battery connectors observe extreme caution as NIMH batteries can discharge dangerously high amps. You are better off buying a battery with the right connector unless you are very familiar with soldering your own battery packs and understand the safety requirements for doing so.

=== GAMEPAD ===
The gamepad for Max The Megapod is identical to the gamepad for Vorpal The Hexapod. See instructions for the gamepad here: [[Vorpal_The_Hexapod_Building_Instructions#Building_the_Gamepadd|Vorpal The Hexapod Gamepad Assembly instructions]]

==Printing the Plastic Parts==

This section assumes you have basic familiarity with 3D printing and 3D printing terminology. If not, you might want to reference online materials such as youtube videos or information from your 3D printer manufacturer before attempting this project.

===OBTAINING THE STL FILES===
We have posted the STL files our public dropbox folder: [http://tinyurl.com/VORPALFILES VORPAL FILES]. Go to the STL folder, then the GAMEPAD and MEGAPOD folders have the files you need. (The same gamepad is shared among all our hexapod projects).

Please post your builds to places like Thingiverse, pictures to FaceBook, Instagram, etc., and videos of your robot to YouTube! This will help us grow and continue having the resources creating cool new projects for our community.

===MINIMUM PRINTER REQUIREMENTS===
*The bed size should be at least 200mm cube (about 8 inches cube). The largest parts are the megapod Base-1, Base-2, and Base-3 parts, so it is the limiting factor on bed size.
*A heated bed is strongly recommended, especially if you are printing in ABS.
*An enclosure is recommended, especially if printing in ABS.
===AMOUNT OF PLASTIC FILAMENT===
* About 2.5 kg of plastic are needed to print the entire robot and gamepad. This does not include accessories like Joust attachments, etc.
* The amount of plastic used does depend on plastic type and exact print settings though, so your mileage may vary.
===RECOMMENDED PLASTICS===
*ABS, PETG, and PLA all work well. However, because there are some very large parts, ABS may cause you some warping issues if you don't have a heated bed, enclosure, and a printer tuned well for large parts. PLA is generally easier and has fewer issues with corners peeling off the print bed.
*We use eSun PLA PRO for this project and for us it works very well. PLA PRO is a little more flexible and stronger than typical PLA. We have no problems with warping even on the largest parts.
*This project requires less flexibility than the smaller Vorpal The Hexapod project, so ABS is less required for this project.
===PRINTING TIPS===
This project has been finely tuned to make it easy to 3D print. No supports are required for any of the parts (there is a support built into the models for the CAP parts). In some cases you may want to use brims or rafts to help parts adhere to the print surface.

There is some significant bridging with some spans up to 30mm (1.2"). It is important to tune your printer and make sure it can handle the bridging before attempting the large parts. A little sagging is ok and a drip or two can be easily removed, but you need decent ability to bridge. There are bridge testing and calibration models posted on sites like Thingiverse that may help you tune your printer before trying the big parts.

====PRINT SETTINGS====
We print using the following settings on a Lulzbot TAZ 6 with 0.5mm nozzle:
* 0.4 layer thickness (or whatever layer thickness is the largest that will work on your printer)
* 2mm walls (i.e. four perimeters for a 0.5mm nozzle)
* 1.6 mm top and bottom (i.e. four layers at 0.4mm layer height)
* 25% infill
* You can print with thinner layers if your printer does not support 0.4mm layers or if you want a more refined look, it will just take longer. If you have a large nozzle (0.8mm or more) you should be able to go with bigger layers and save a lot of print time. Please report your findings to us at support@vorpalrobotics.com so we can advise future Makers of this project.
====BRIMS AND RAFTS====
* Brims or rafts are recommended for the following hexapod parts: Base, Legs, Cap. This ensures proper bed retention to avoid warping. These parts have relatively little contact area with the print bed, or have certain sections with little contact.
*If you have a very well dialed-in printer and have no issues with warping or corners curling up during prints, you can try them without brims. We don't use brims on anything but we've printed thousands of parts and we keep our printers very well tuned all the time with weekly maintenance and adjustments.
*These parts are large so if you don't use brims and things don't work out you might kill half a roll of plastic ... so maybe just use brims, it only adds a few minutes of cleanup time.
* Brims/rafts are not recommended on any of the other parts. The other parts generally have enough bed surface contact that they will print fine without brims. Your mileage may vary however and it is recommended that you keep a close eye on the first few layers of the print to make sure everything is sticking properly.
* We personally prefer brims over rafts (such as available in Cura and Simplify3D) as they are easy to remove and leave a clean look.
====POST PRINT====
Other than removing brims/rafts and the occasional drip, there is not any special post-processing required after printing. Some of the big bridges might seem a little saggy but generally speaking there's enough tolerance that this won't cause an issue. The biggest bridges are mostly hidden inside the robot so they won't affect cosmetics.

====PRO TIPS====
*Do routine maintenance on your printer before printing the big parts: lubricate rods and lead screws, check bed leveling, replace nozzle if worn, do a calibration print, clean your print surface, etc. A few minutes of preparation will help you nail these prints and make a project you can be very proud of!
*Print the large parts (Base, Cap) at the ''start'' of new spools. The last thing you want is to run out of filament 95% of the way through a big part.
*Print the smallest parts (servo stops, hinge rings, gamepad drawer) near the end of a spool.
*If you have a large format printer, it is tempting to kick off all three Base parts at once and let it run overnight. We would recommend against that--the chances of killing an entire spool of filament due to an overnight power hit or other failure is just not worth it. Take your time, do the big parts one by one. One or two during the day, one overnight. It will all get done soon enough. An extra couple of days won't matter in the long run.

== Building the Robot ==

You will need the following tools:
*Included in the kit:
** 2mm hex key. A 5/64 inch hex key will also work. This is in the Megapod Parts bag.
** 7/64 hex key at least 6" long (150mm). It needs to be long enough to reach screws through access holes in the Base and Cap. This is in the Megapod Parts Bag.
*Not included in the kit:
** Optional: A marker that can write on dark plastic and still be seen, such as Sharpie Metallic or Sharpie Oil markers (white and yellow work great on dark colored plastic, black or blue work well on light colored plastic). This can be used to make raised lettering on the robot and gamepad more visible.
** Optional: Needle nose pliers can be helpful for holding nuts in place while tightening screws.
** Optional: Slip-joint pliers can be helpful for forcing the skate bearings into their press-fit locations on the Leg Hinges
** Optional: An electric screwdriver with a 7/64" hex key attachment will greatly speed up the process of locking the servos in place using the servo stop parts. There are 12 long screws to insert. Do yourself a favor, electric screwdrivers are not expensive these days and are very handy.

===IMPORTANT WARNING: POWERFUL SERVOS MAY INJURE YOU===
The motors on Max the Megapod are very powerful compared to the smaller Vorpal the Hexapod project. It is possible for the leg motions to pinch fingers or even possibly break fingers or cause other injuries. When powering on the Megapod you must keep fingers clear of places where the legs/hips can come together. In case of electrical issues the legs may move unexpectedly. Turning the power off will release the motors. Never let small children play with the megapod or grab at it when it's walking or moving.

If the robot is moving in an out of control manner, use a pencil, book, or rod to hit the power switch, which is large and easy to turn off.

You must at all times take standard precautions that are typical with large robotic projects.

If you are building your own electrical system please do not skimp by skipping adding the fuse to the circuit. This project may draw significant amperage and fuse protection is required.

===Step by Step Instructions===
====STEP 1: Insert accessory port screws in the chassis====
This is easier to do before the Base is assembled into a single part.
* Insert 1" #6-32 socket head screws in the bottom two holes of the accessory port with the head of the screw inside the hexapod, then secure using lock washers and nuts outside. Repeat for the top two accessory holes with shorter 3/4" #6-32 socket head screws. Two wingnuts go on the two lower screws, these will be used to secure accessories such as the Jousting Lance.
<gallery mode=packed>
File:Accessory-Port-Diagram-V2.JPG|The accessory port is considered the "front" of the robot.
File:Accessory-Port-Screws.JPG|Longer socket head screws go on the bottom. Do not overtighten the nuts.
File:Wing-Nuts-Installed.JPG|After installing the nuts, put the wingnuts on the bottom screws. They'll be used later to secure accessories.
</gallery>

====STEP 2: Build the BASE====
* STEP 1A: Take the three outer parts of the base (STL files: Base-1, Base-2, Base-3) and arrange them to form the "bowl" of the base. Make sure the servo numbers are in the right order as you move clockwise around the three parts! It's possible to assemble them in the wrong order if you don't check.
* STEP 1B: There are matching screw holes positioned on little rectangular outcroppings on the inside of the top ring, these require screws to bind the three parts together. Use three 7/8 inch socket head screws, toothed lock washers, and nuts to secure them. There is an access hole in the rim of the robot to allow the hex key to turn the screw. You may need to hold the nut in place using needle-nose pliers. Repeat for all three sections.
<gallery mode=packed heights=250>
File:Base-Exploded-View.JPG|Line up the three main pieces of the base, ensuring the servo numbers are in order.
File:Access-Hole-In-Base.jpg|Small access holes are strategically placed around the base so the hex key can turn the screws to secure the three base pieces.
File:Securing-Base-Sections.jpg|Use the access hole in the Base parts to secure screws that bind the three base parts together.
File:Megapod-Foam-Squares.jpg|Peel the backing off the foam squares that came with the kit and attach them to the bottom of the base. Stack them on top of each other.
</gallery>
* STEP 1C: Take the Base Bottom part and place it inside the base. There is a nub in one place that will only allow it to be inserted in one orientation. Use 5/8" screws in the outer ring of holes in the bottom to secure it to the base. The head of the screw should be on the outside of the robot and nuts should secure the screws on the inside. NOTE: There are six outer ring holes, however you only need three of them (one in each base section) to secure the robot. Early versions of the kit only had three 5/8" screws.
* STEP 1D: Take the foam squares that came in your kit and stick them on the bottom of the robot. (Build up several layers, they stick to each other.) These foam pads will reduce the shock and stress on the robot when it goes down to the floor on certain dance moves. Without these pads, the robot leg servos and body structure may undergo too much stress.

====STEP 3: Install the electrical system in the base====
* STEP 3A: Take the potentiometer and remove its dial cap, then unscrew the nut and set these items aside for now (don't lose them). Push the potentiometer shaft from the inside of the chassis into the hole that is surrounded by the markings "STOP", "TST", etc. The wires coming out of the potentiometer should be pointing down. The little metal nub sticking out of the potentiometer should match with a tiny rectangular hole that is near the marking "TST". Put the retaining nut on the potentiometer, hand tighten first and then give it just another half turn or so with pliers if desired. Turn the knob all the way counter-clockwise, then insert the knob so it points to the letter "O" in the word "STOP".
* STEP 3B: Take the large DPST on/off switch (which is attached to the battery holder and power distribution assembly) and thread the switch wires from the inside through the gap at the bottom of the switch hole (see picture). Carefully push the wires one by one through the slot below the switch hole. Once all the wires are through, push the switch into the switch hole. It should be oriented with the "1" to the right. Press carefully into the hole, it should snap firmly in place.
** If the fit is too tight to get the switch in place, lightly sanding or filing the hole to make it a tiny bit larger should work.
<gallery mode=packed heights=200>
File:Switch-Insert-1.jpg|Thread the switch and its wires through the Base, there is an opening under the switch hole.
File:Switch-Insert-2.jpg|Bring the wires up through the small gap below the switch hole. Be careful with the large wires, they require some pressure or some flexing of the plastic to get through.
File:Switch-Insert-3.jpg|All the wires are now coming through the switch hole.
File:Switch-Insert-4.jpg|Press the switch into the hole, it should snap into place. The "1" should be to the right.
</gallery>

====STEP 4: Insert servos in the chassis====
* Next, insert the servo into the chassis as shown in the diagrams below. As you insert the servo into the chassis, slowly press it straight into place until it fully seats. Use a servo stopper and one 1.5 inch #6 socket screw to secure the servos in place. Use the hole nearest to the front of the servo. NOTE: There are two holes in the Servo Stop but we have found that one screw is enough to hold it. The second hole could be used if you find that the plastic you use tears through the hole. We have not seen this but we added the second hole just in case.
<gallery mode=packed heights=250>
File:Servo-in-Base-2.jpg|Insert each servo with the wire coming out away from the robot as shown here. Press in completely.
File:Servo-in-Base-3.jpg|Insert a servo stopper (shown in red) and secure with one 1.5" screw in the hole nearest the front (the servo shaft and horn is in the front). Thread the wire into the body of the robot through the hole as shown.
</gallery>

====STEP 5: Insert the servos in the Legs====
The technique is very similar to inserting the servo into the chassis.
*Insert the servo straight into the leg socket so that the wire is coming out of the servo facing away from the plastic leg and the face of the servo with the shaft and servo horn goes into the open faced side of the leg, as shown in the diagram.
*Secure the servo in place with a servo stopper and one 1.5 inch screw as you did with the hip servos in the base. NOTE: There are two holes in the stopper but we have found that one screw is enough to hold it. The second hole could be used if you find that the plastic you use tears through the hole. We have not seen this but we added the second hole just in case.
*The servos in the legs are called the "knee" servos. Each leg has a higher number on it, this is the knee number, they run from 6 to 11. Again, write this number on the black connector at the end of the servo wire. PRO TIP: For 6 and 9, underline the number so you don't read them upside down!
<gallery mode=packed heights=200>
File:Servo-Insert-Leg-v2.png|Insert Servos in Legs
File:Servo-Leg-Inserted-v2.png|Push until fully seated
File:Servo-Stopper-In-Leg.jpg|Use the servo stopper and two screws to lock the servo in place
</gallery>

*Thread each leg servo wire into the bottom wire guide slot on the chassis. Each leg servo should be matched with a hip servo plus 6. The legs are marked with the hip number near the top and the knee number below that. For example, the leg marked 6 should be threaded through the wire guide on hip servo 0, leg 7 goes with hip 1, leg 8 goes with hip 2, etc. Add 6 to the hip number to get the leg number.

====STEP 6: Plug in the Servos====
Thread the servo wires into the chassis using the routing holes, as you did with the hip servos. The power distribution harness has marked servo extension sockets for each servo. Each hip servo is marked on the BASE showing its number. the knee servo for each hip is numbered six higher than its corresponding hip. For example, hip servo number 3 will be attached to knee servo number 9, because 3+6=9.

When plugging the servos in, make sure you match the light yellow servo wire to the white servo extension wire, and the dark brown servo wire should match with the black servo extension wire.

====STEP 7: Make Robot Electrical Connections====

Now use the diagram below in the electrical section to make the rest of the robot's electrical connections. You'll be using the Robot Arduino Nano (marked "R"), the Servo Driver, Bluetooth Module marked "S", the buzzer, and a bunch of jumper wires. Make sure you use the longer jumper wires for the SDA and SCL connections between the Nano and the Servo Driver.

====STEP 8: Assemble the leg hinges====
[[File:Servo-Bracket-Alignment-v1.png|thumb|350px|right|Align the leg hinges as shown here. The bumps (see arrows) should both be near each other when properly aligned. Hold one in each hand with the ends of the U shape between thumb and forefinger.]]
Each leg hinge is composed of two identical U-shaped parts. Take one in each hand and align the two so that the bump (shown in the diagram at the right) are both near each other. Turn one 90 degrees with respect to the other.
*Gently squeeze each piece between thumb and forefinger, which causes the little jaws in the center to open up slightly. Work the two halves together. Keep squeezing harder until the ends slide into place. NOTE: Make sure you printed version V1r2b or later. Earlier versions made it too difficult to squeeze the parts into place. If you printed an earlier version, you may need to trim some plastic using angle cutters to get the parts together.
*If you used PLA and are finding it hard to bend, briefly soaking the pieces in very hot tap water has been reported to make it easier. Take care not to scald yourself, the water does not have to be boiling, just hot from the tap. You only need to dip the ends that will lock over each other, not the parts you will squeeze. Use caution.
*At this stage, you may notice that the parts are loosely clamped on each other (this depends on plastic used and whether your printer over- or under-extrudes). Don't worry! When you place the leg hinges over a servo, the servo will spread it apart and they will lock together tightly.
*Insert a 608 skate bearing into the socket on one side of the leg hinges. Pliers may be necessary to press them into place. Make sure you clean up any drips inside the recessed area for the skate bearing before attempting to insert the bearings.

====STEP 9: Attach Leg Hinges====
The leg hinges connect the hips to the knees. They only go on one way. If you made sure to align the bumps when assembling the leg hinges, this will result in correct orientation of all legs.
*First place the end that matches the servo horn on about halfway. Make sure the servo horn slides under the little pocket at the end of recessed area that accepts the horn.
*Very slightly bend the U shaped piece while pulling the skate bearing side over the hemispherical bump on the other side of the servo holding area. It's a little easier to do the knees (servos mounted to legs) first, followed by the hips (servos on base).
*NOTE: It will be a tight fit, but it should not be excessively difficult to push the hinge over the hemispherical bearing. If you find you are struggling, that means the hinges are too tight. This may affect walking. This can be due to the kind of plastic you used or how your printer is adjusted. You may need to gently spread the two legs of the U shape by hand before putting the hinge on the robot. Be careful of course not to break the hinge.
*When completed, double check to make sure the servo horn went into the covered pocket at the end of its recessed area. This pocket keeps the horn from slipping out of the hinge during stressful operations.

====STEP 10: Enclose the electronics modules in their caddies====

Now things look pretty messy with all those wires hanging loose, let's clean it up by stowing the Arduino Nano, Bluetooth module and Servo Driver in their caddies. The caddies will keep them safe by making sure they can't short out against each other or touch screws, etc.
* '''STEP 10A: Insert Caddy Bars''' Insert the electronics caddy bars as shown in the diagrams below. Notice carefully how they are inserted. Don't insert them upside down, the little hump should be facing inward toward the caddy. You may need to slightly squeeze the forked section at the end to work it into the hole. Once inside, it may be difficult to remove because it will snap into place, so be sure you're putting it in the right way.
<gallery mode=packed heights=300>
File:Insert-Caddy-Bar-1.jpg|Insertion of the caddy bar into the Nano caddy. Notice the orientation, don't put the bar in upside down. The same technique is used for the Servo Driver Caddy.
</gallery>
* '''STEP 10B: Insert the Arduino Nano into its caddy''' Carefully insert the Nano as shown, making sure you don't pull out any of the wires. You may need to wiggle the caddy bar from side to side a bit so that components can slide past it during insertion. Notice that the end of the Nano that has the USB port must go in last.

<gallery mode=packed heights=250>
File:Insert-Nano-In-Caddy-1.jpg|Insert the Nano in the orientation shown.
File:Insert-Nano-In-Caddy-2.jpg|You may need to wiggle it a bit or press on the bar to work it into place.
File:Insert-Nano-In-Caddy-3.jpg|Note how the USB port is accessible through the top after full insertion.
</gallery>

* '''STEP 10C: Insert the Servo Driver into its caddy''' Carefully insert the Servo Driver as shown, making sure you don't pull out any of the wires. You may need to wiggle the caddy bar from side to side a bit so that components can slide past it during insertion. Notice that the end of the Servo controller with wires sticking out of it must go in last.

<gallery mode=packed heights=200>
File:Insert-ServoDriver-In-Caddy-1.jpg|Insert the Servo Driver in the orientation shown.
File:Insert-ServoDriver-In-Caddy-2.jpg|You may need to wiggle it a bit or press on the bar to work it into place.
File:Insert-ServoDriver-In-Caddy-3.jpg|Note that the end with the wires goes in last.
</gallery>

* '''STEP 10D: Insert the HC05 Bluetooth Module''' The diagrams here do not show the wires to make them easier to visualize. The HC05 Bluetooth module with a name beginning with "S" should be used for the robot. For example, the label will read something like "VORP S2944" (the number will differ). The one marked "M" will be used for the gamepad. Slide the HC05 into the side drawer as shown. When inserting, be careful not to pull out the wires, which will be a little tight. Work the wires into the little space provided so they stay clear of the robot's cap when it gets screwed on later.

<gallery mode=packed heights=250>
File:Insert-HC05-in-Caddy-1.jpg|Insert the HC05 into the side drawer of the Nano Caddy as shown.
File:Insert-HC05-in-Caddy-2.jpg|When fully inserted, the indicator light will still be visible through the small oval.
File:Insert-HC05-in-Caddy-3.jpg|The wires should be tucked into the little cavity near the pins of the HC05.
</gallery>

====STEP 11: Power up!====
Make sure the on/off switch is off, and the knob is turned to STOP. Insert batteries and power on the robot using the on/off switch. You should hear a beep, a pause, then a second beep. The servos should all twitch into position. If the robot does not move at all, immediately turn the switch off and check your connections again. If some of the servos don't move then gently push them with power off to see if you can free them up. If they still won't move, try pushing them with power applied, but turn off the power within 30 seconds if they're locked up. If you can't get the servo to move it will need to be replaced.

[[File:Servo-Horn-Orientation.png|thumb|right|The servo horn should come straight out from the body at a 90 degree angle as shown here. Do not turn the servo shaft by hand until after it has moved under power!]]

====STEP 12: Insert Servo Horns====
The servo horns are all at random angles right now due to the servo pre-check. In this step we'll make them point in the right direction. The knee servos are not at 90 degrees when the knob is all the way counter clockwise, rather they are at a 30 degree standing angle.

We need to get them to 90 degrees so its easy to align the servo horn, and this is done by going into "Adjust Mode". Turn the knob very slightly clockwise until you hear a beep, then stop. After about one second you will see all the knee servos twitch. This is "adjust servo horn mode". All servos (knees and hips) are now at their halfway point, 90 degrees.

Now you need to take each single arm servo horn and carefully insert it on the shaft so that it is sticking straight out as shown in the figure. You will not always be able to make the horn come totally straight out. This is because there are only 22 little groves (splines) in each shaft, meaning you can in general only come within about 8 degrees of being at a perfect 90 degree angle. This amount of error is acceptable for now, just get it as close as you can. Later we'll use Trim Mode to make fine adjustments.

====STEP 13: Test Knee Positions====
Turn the knob fully counter clockwise (to STOP) and the robot will go into "stand still" mode. Place it on a level surface such as a table top. Do all of the legs touch the ground? If one or more legs don't touch the ground, you need to adjust the servo horn on the knee a little bit so it does touch. Gently pull off the servo bracket. Pull the servo horn off, and put it back on just a little bit moved so the leg would move closer to the ground. Put the servo bracket back on, and see how it looks. Do this until all legs are at least slightly touching the ground. Again, you can't necessarily be perfect due to the 8 degree increments the servo horns can be moved. But you should be able to be close enough that all legs at least slightly touch the ground.

====STEP 14: Insert Servo Screws====
Now that the legs are adjusted, you can insert the M3x12 screws (with M3 lock washers) into the servo horns to lock them in place. Note that you will NOT be using the screws that were in the little bag the servos came in, you'll be using the separate pack of screws, which are longer than the ones in the servo bag. Do not overtighten these screws, as you could possibly crack the servo brackets. Just turn the screws until you start to feel resistance, then turn a quarter turn more and stop.

====STEP 14: Test the Servos====
*'''STEP 14A: Using TST Mode'''
**To test whether every servo is working, put the robot on something that will lift its legs off the table top, but won't interfere with the legs (a small box, etc.).
**Start with the knob on STOP, then slowly turn it clockwise. You'll hear one beep (Adjust mode), then a second beep (Test mode). Stop turning and the robot will go into "individual servo test mode". In this mode, every hip servo will move, one by one. When all the hips have moved, every leg will move, one by one. You should see every servo move, in order. If some don't move, check your connections. A common error is to plug a servo connector into the servo controller backwards (i.e. the brown wire is matched with the yellow pin instead of the black pin). If the servos do not move in a sensible order, that probably means you plugged a couple of servos into the wrong sockets in the electrical harness.

*'''STEP 14B: Test Using Demo Mode'''
**Ok, everything looks good, so time for a full test. Turn the knob to STOP, then put the robot on the floor, somewhere that has at least a few feet of room in each direction. (Caution: it's tempting to do this on a table top, but unless you have a huge table this is not advisable, Max will run pretty fast at some points during the demo.)
**Turn the knob to DEMO, and about one second later the robot will go through a series of movements to demonstrate some of the things it can do. The full demo only takes about 30 seconds, then repeats. Here, you are looking for the robot to, for example, be able to get back up off the floor after doing some of its dance moves.
**If the robot struggles to get off the floor, you may have a battery that is not fully charged, or there may be drips or other obstructions stopping some legs from moving fully. See the [[Vorpal Combat_Hexapod Troubleshooting Guide|Trouble Shooting Guide]] for more information about different kinds of issues that can occur. That guide was written for the small robot, but most of the things that can go wrong with Max the Megapod are identical to the things that can go wrong with Vorpal The Hexapod.

====STEP 15: Store electronics and wires in the Base====
Carefully stow the caddies into the base, using any available convenient space. Arrange the servo and other wires so they don't cross any screw holes. The three Base Cover parts can be used to secure everything, however you may not want to put in more than one screw each at this point, until the robot is more fully tested. Be sure the two battery connectors come through the holes provided for them in the Cover parts.
<gallery mode=packed heights=250>
File:All-Electronics-Inserted-In-Base.jpg|Carefully stow the caddies into the base, being careful not to pull out any wires. Press servo wires into place too, make sure they don't overlap any screw holes.
File:Base-Covers-3.jpg|Place the three covers in place. It is not necessary to screw them down at this point, you may want to wait until the robot is more fully tested. We normally just put in one screw on each component at this point--this makes it easy to get back into the electronics if something needs to be checked.
</gallery>

====STEP 16: Assemble the Cap====
*'''STEP 16A: Assemble the Four Cap Parts'''
**First assemble the three large pieces after removing the support coming out of the center. Be aware that there is a correct ordering to them, the two flaps that stick out near the bottom need to be opposite each other so the cap can slot into the Base and lock in place. Use 7/8" screws to secure the three parts together as shown. There are access holes around the rim that allow the hex key to reach the screws. Use nuts and locking washers to secure the screws.
**Secure the top of the cap onto the bottom three pieces using three 5/8" #6 socket screws and their associated nuts and toothed lock washers.
<gallery mode=packed heights=250>
File:Cap-Exploded.JPG|Arrangement of the four Cap parts. Note that this diagram shows the support in place, this should actually be removed prior to assembly.
File:CAP-Assembly-order.JPG|Make sure the two flaps at the rim are opposite each other when ordering the three main parts.
</gallery>
* '''STEP 16B: Put magnets in the Cap''' Insert a magnet in each magnet holder in the cap. The magnets are marked with a dot on the North pole side. It is important that this dot be showing after installation. In other words, insert the magnet with the non-dot side down. The magnet is about 2mm smaller in diameter than the hole, so you will need to use hot glue (or some other kind of glue that works on metal and plastic) to secure it.
* '''STEP 16C: Decorate''' If desired, use a permanent marker to color the Vorpal "V" on top of the Cap. Oil markers work well. On light colors of plastic a black permanent marker will also work.
* '''STEP 16D: Put Cap on the Hexapod'''
**Screw the cap on the robot by lining up the tabs with the matching slots in the rim of the base. Turn the cap clockwise to lock it in place. IMPORTANT: Do not press down on the robot to insert the cap when the robot is under power standing on its legs! You can damage the leg motors by doing this. It is best to turn the robot off, and either support the bottom of the Base with one hand and press the Cap on with the other, or set the Base down on the table top or floor with legs out to the sides so they don't take pressure.
**If the cap is too loose and swivels while the robot moves, this can be fixed by putting a bit of tape on the cap's flaps to make them a little thicker. The tightness of the cap depends a lot on printer settings, over- or under-extrusion, etc.

====STEP 17: Warning Label====
There are two a self-stick choking hazard warning labels in the hexapod parts bag. Peel the backing off one of them and place it on the bottom of the robot, near the center. Retain the second label for the gamepad.

==== Step 18: Trimming the Servos ====
When you assembled the servo horns onto the servos, you probably were not able to get them all to come out exactly at a 90 degree angle. That's not your fault: the servo horns only have 22 possible positions in which they can be installed, so at best you can come within plus or minus 8 degrees of perfection.

Now that you have the gamepad working, you can make fine adjustments to the servo positions using "Trim Mode". In this special gamepad mode, you can adjust all the servos. These adjustments are saved in the robot's EEPROM, which is memory on the Nano that retains data even when powered off. So, you only need to trim once.

Complete instructions on how to use trim mode are in the wiki page: [[Vorpal The Hexapod Trim Mode Guide]]. That guide was written for the smaller robot, but the instructions are identical for Max the Megapod.

NOTE: although this step is optional, it is recommended because your robot will walk straighter and all the servos will share equally in lifting the robot's weight, which will make them last longer.

====Step 19: Assembling Eye Decorations====
Glue a magnet into the magnet hole on both sets of eyes. The magnet should have the marked side face down, not showing.

You can use hot glue, "superglue" or any other kind of glue that works on plastic and metal.

==Electrical Connections: Robot==

===NOTES ON JUMPER WIRES===

====Wire Lengths====
There are two different lengths of female-female Dupont jumper wires used to make most connections. The longer ones (20cm) are only used for the Hexapod's accessory port connections. The shorter ones are used for all the connections on the Gamepad and all the connections on the Hexapod between the Arduino Nano, Servo controller and Bluetooth module.

====Wire Color Conventions====

Please follow these conventions when selecting wire colors:
* For +5V, Vin, and similar positive voltage connections, use either RED or ORANGE.
* For GND and other negative electrical connections, use BLACK or BROWN.
* For the connectors that sit at the mouth of the accessory port (used for optional sensors) colors are suggested below in the instructions. By following these suggestions you will make your life easier when connecting sensors!
* For all other connections, you can use any color you want, it's arbitrary.

====If Jumper Wires Are Too Loose====
Sometimes you will find a wire whose connector does not grip the pin well enough. It might fall off very easily or just by gravity alone. If that happens, you have a few options:
* There are extra wires in your kit. If you find a wire that's too loose, just use a different wire.
* Using the hex key, you can put the jumper housing on a flat surface then press on the metal showing through the plastic connector, which will tighten up the jumper wire's grip. Don't go too overboard on pressing though or you might make it too hard to insert.
* Alternatively, you could use electrical tape after inserting all the wires on a module (such as the Nano) to effectively attach together all the little plastic female connector housings. In that way, the connectors that do grip will help hold in the ones that are too loose. Some people also like using hot glue for this purpose. (Personally, I don't like using hot glue, as it makes it harder to change connections if you hooked something up incorrectly.)

===NANO PIN CONNECTIONS===
[[File:Megapod-Nano-Connections-v1.JPG|thumb|600px|right|Diagram of Nano connections for the Hexapod. Jumpers marked AP are routed to the Accessory Port for use with add-ons like sensors. Click for larger image.]]
* ''Digital IO Pins:''
** D0, D1 are reserved because they are used for uploading programs to the robot, so nothing will be connected there.
** D2, D3 No connection.
** D4 Buzzer Signal (white wire)
** D5 through D13 No connection. These pins are reserved for future expansion.

* ''Analog Pins:''
** A0 Potentiometer signal (white wire)
** A1 Potentiometer Power (red wire)
** A2 Potentiometer Ground (black wire)
** A3 No connection.
** A4 Servo Controller SDA
** A5 Servo Controller SCL
** A6, A7 No connection.

* ''Power Pins:''
** +5V pin on Nano connects to any of the +5V RED wires coming from the BEC on the power distribution harness.
** GND pin on Nano connects to any of the GND BLACK wires coming from the BEC on the power distribution harness.

===Servo Driver Power Pins===
* Port 0 RED pin on the Servo Driver connects to any of the +5V RED wires coming from the BEC on the power distribution harness.
* Port 0 BLACK GND pin on the Servo Driver connects to any of the GND BLACK wires coming from the BEC on the power distribution harness.

=== Bluetooth Module Power ===
* +5V on HC05 connects to any RED Dupont connector coming off the BEC.
* GND on HC05 connects to any BLACK Dupont connector coming off the BEC.

=== Buzzer Power ===
* Plug the buzzer into the unused port 15 on the servo driver, making sure the red and black wires on the buzzer power match the red and black rows of pins on the servo driver.

=== Servo Driver ===
[[File:Megapod-ServoDriverConnections.jpg|thumb|600px|right|Diagram of Servo Controller pins you will use in this project. Each servo motor has a 3 wire connector that should be plugged into the corresponding servo number extension connector in the power distribution harness. The white wires coming out of the harness in groups of four should be connected to the yellow line or ports, matching the number ranges to port numbers. Note that the black and red rows of pins are not used, power is provided to the servos through the power distribution harness. Click for larger image.]]
* Connect the 12 servos to power distribution harness connectors marked with port numbers corresponding to the servo marking (0 to 11). Make sure the signal wire (yellow) is oriented correctly and matches the yellow plastic header pin.
* Connect the groups of four white wires which are marked with servo port numbers to the Servo Driver yellow pins, matching the Servo Driver pin number to the port numbers written on the 4-pin Dupont connectors coming out of the power distribution harness.
* Connect one of the +5V RED regulated BEC outputs to the RED port 0 pin of the Servo Driver. Connect one of the GND black pins coming out of the BEC to the BLACK port 0 GND pin on the Servo Driver.
* On one short side of the Servo Controller you will find a VCC and V+ pin right next to each other. Use a shunt (small black connector that goes over two pins) to connect those together if one is not already installed. Without this shunt the Servo Driver will not work.
* SDA and SCL go to A4 and A5 on the Nano, respectively.



== Building the Gamepad ==
The gamepad for Max The Megapod is identical to the Gamepad for Vorpal The Hexapod.

Please see instructions on [[Vorpal_The_Hexapod_Building_Instructions#Building_the_Gamepadd|the Vorpal Hexapod Gamepad Assembly instructions]].

{{Megapod Quick Links}}

Template:Gigapod Quick Links

2026-02-25T20:24:35Z

Vorpalwiki: /* Gidget the Gigapod Quick Links */

==Gidget the Gigapod Quick Links==
{| class="wikitable"
|- style="vertical-align:top;"
|colspan=1|[http://eepurl.com/dcJCgr NEWSLETTER]
|colspan=1|[https://groups.google.com/forum/#!forum/vorpal-robotics-forum VORPAL FORUM]
|- style="vertical-align:top;"
|
User Documentation:
* [[Gidget The Gigapod User Guide|User Guide]]
* [[Vorpal The Hexapod Gamepad User Guide|Gamepad Guide]]
* [[Gidget The Gigapod Assembly Instructions|Assembly Guide]]
* [[Vorpal The Hexapod Troubleshooting Guide|Trouble Shooting]]
* [[Vorpal The Hexapod Technical Information|Technical Guides]]
|
Contact/Press:
* [[Vorpal Combat Hexapod Contact Us|Contact Us]]
* [https://groups.google.com/forum/#!forum/vorpal-robotics-forum Vorpal Forum]
* [[Vorpal The Hexapod Press Releases and Articles|Press & News]]
* [[Vorpal The Hexapod Press Kit|Press Kit]]

Gidget The Gigapod

2026-02-25T20:23:54Z

Vorpalwiki:

{{float_box|{{GTG Quick Links}} }}

=Introduction=
Gidget the Gigapod is a version of our popular [[Vorpal The Hexapod]] project that's even bigger than [[Max The Megapod]]. It's 32 times the build volume of Vorpal the Hexapod. All the structural parts are 3D printed, allowing you to modify the design easily, reprint parts when needed, and save money (if you have a 3D printer) by only purchasing the electronic parts.

<youtube>oNpiRIQW8oM|Gidget the Gigapod Early Floor Test</youtube>

==What can it do?==
[[File:Child+Giga+Mega+Hexa.jpg|right|400px|Gidget the Gigapod, a five year old child, Max the Megapod, and Vorpal the Hexapod]]
This is not a consumer level project. It is for makers who are comfortable building large robots and understand safety precautions required for using strong batteries, powerful servo motors, and other concepts.
This robot was mainly created for public demonstrations. It's so large that we don't recommend it for general use around children except in very controlled environments. Some of the features include:
* Software compatible with our popular smaller version, Vorpal The Hexapod. This includes all Scratch programming features!
* 12 degrees of freedom using all-metal gear high torque (60 kg-cm) large size servos.
* Bluetooth wireless control using the custom Vorpal Gamepad
* Arduino open source hardware used on both the gamepad and gigapod
* The gamepad has many preprogrammed functions for walking, dancing, and fighting style competitions.
* A unique feature allows gamepad functions to be recorded and replayed. For example, record a dancing session, then rewind and replay it all from the gamepad!
* Tremendous Expandability! The built in hardware and sensor expansion ports guarantee nearly unlimited expandability. Besides the accessories we already have, we are working on tons of new cool extensions, and you can also create your own using a 3D printer and standard, inexpensive sensors and other hardware.
 

[[File:Giga-Mega-Hexa-Stacked.jpg|left|300px|From bottom to top: Gigapod, Megapod, Hexapod]]

 

{{Gigapod Quick Links}}

Template:Megapod Quick Links

2026-02-25T20:19:49Z

Vorpalwiki: /* Max The Megapod Quick Links */

==Max The Megapod Quick Links==
{| class="wikitable"
|- style="vertical-align:top;"
|colspan=1|[http://eepurl.com/dcJCgr NEWSLETTER]
|colspan=1|[https://groups.google.com/forum/#!forum/vorpal-robotics-forum VORPAL FORUM]

|- style="vertical-align:top;"
|
User Documentation:
* [[Max The Megapod User Guide|User Guide]]
* [[Vorpal The Hexapod Gamepad User Guide|Gamepad Guide]]
* [[Max The Megapod Assembly Instructions|Assembly Guide]]
* [[Vorpal The Hexapod Troubleshooting Guide|Trouble Shooting]]
* [[Vorpal The Hexapod Technical Information|Technical Guides]]
|
Contact/Press:
* [[Vorpal Combat Hexapod Contact Us|Contact Us]]
* [https://groups.google.com/forum/#!forum/vorpal-robotics-forum Vorpal Forum]
* [[Vorpal The Hexapod Press Releases and Articles|Press & News]]
* [[Vorpal The Hexapod Press Kit|Press Kit]]

Max The Megapod

2026-02-25T20:18:50Z

Vorpalwiki:

Max The Megapod

2026-02-25T20:16:19Z

Vorpalwiki: /* What can it do? */

Max The Megapod (Max is short for Maxnome) is a double sized version of our popular Vorpal The Hexapod project. It's twice the size in all directions, or eight times the build volume. All the structural parts are 3D printed, allowing you to modify the design easily, reprint parts when needed, and save money (if you have a 3D printer) by only purchasing the electronic parts.

<youtube>XHUst4hxf8Q|Max the Megapod Dancing with Vorpal The Hexapod</youtube>

==What can it do?==

This is an experimental project for people who are comfortable building larger robots. This is not a consumer level project!

Max has these features:
* Software compatible with our popular smaller version, Vorpal The Hexapod.
* 12 degrees of freedom using all-metal gear high torque standard size servos.
* Bluetooth wireless control using the custom Vorpal Button Gamepad
* Arduino open source hardware used on both the gamepad and hexapod
* The gamepad has many preprogrammed functions for walking, dancing, and fighting style competitions.
* A unique feature allows gamepad functions to be recorded and replayed. For example, record a dancing session, then rewind and replay it all from the gamepad!
**Tether the gamepad to your computer via USB and control the hexapod using your own Scratch code.
**Scratch programs can both wirelessly control the robot and read sensor data from optional sensors on the robot.
* Tremendous Expandability! The built in hardware and sensor expansion ports guarantee nearly unlimited expandability. Besides the accessories we already have, we are working on tons of new cool extensions, and you can also create your own using a 3D printer and standard, inexpensive sensors and other hardware.
 

==How Do I Get it/Build it?==
Max The Megapod kits are available at our store (see [https://vorpal-robotics-store.myshopify.com/collections/hexapod-kits low cost hexapod robot kits]).

You have several options for obtaining Max:

* Buy all the parts, including the structural parts, and assemble yourself (assembly time is about two hours). You do not need a 3d printer for this option.
* Buy the electronics/fasteners and largest 3D printed parts, and print the other parts yourself. The parts you will need to print require a printer with a build volume of 150mm cube (about six inches cube). Choose this option if you want to print the parts but do not have the 200mm cube build area required for some of the largest items.
* Buy just the electronics, and you 3D print all the free STL files for the structural parts, then assemble yourself. For this option, you need a 3D printer with a build volume of 200mm cube (about 8 inches cube).

No soldering is necessary when building the kit. Age for build: 9th grade through adult. Adult supervision is suggested for students who are younger than high school level.

IMPORTANT NOTE: Max has powerful servo motors and is not for use by young children. Keep fingers clear of legs when Max is operating. It is possible to get pinched if you stick your hand in the wrong place while Max is moving. It is even possible for these servos to break fingers under the right circumstances. Max is big and love-able and small children are naturally fascinated by him, so adult supervision is required to make sure little fingers stay safe.

See our [http://store.vorpalrobotics.com Vorpal Robotics Store] for information on where to order parts or fully built hexapods.
[[File:Scamp-Leg-Raised.jpg|left|350px|Vorpal The Hexapod Robot]]
 

==More Questions?==
See our [[Max The Megapod FAQ]] for answers to the most common questions, or send email to support@vorpalrobotics.com if you don't see the info you need there.

{{Megapod Quick Links}}

Vorpal Robotics

2026-02-25T20:14:04Z

Vorpalwiki: removed kit purchase options

__NOTOC__

==Welcome to Vorpal Robotics!==
Vorpal Robotics is dedicated to creating fun, interactive, classroom-friendly projects based on open source technologies and 3D printing.

== Vorpal Open Source Projects ==
Our projects combine 3D printing along with electronics to help you create amazing things. All of our projects are open source and do not use any proprietary components. We no longer provide full kits but we do have some of the individual components if you want to source some from us and some from other places.

Click on the image to go to the Wiki page for each project.
<gallery mode=packed heights=230>
Image:Scamp-Leg-Raised.jpg|link=Vorpal The Hexapod|'''Vorpal The Hexapod Kit''' ([[Vorpal The Hexapod|MORE INFO]]) Our flagship project!
Image:Grip-picture-color.JPG|link=Hexapod Grip Arm|'''Hexapod Grip Arm Kit''' ([[Hexapod Grip Arm|MORE INFO]]) Get a grip!
Image:Megapod-With-Vorpal-Comparison-scaled.jpg|link=Max The Megapod|'''Max The Megapod Kit''' ([[Max The Megapod|MORE INFO]]) Double the size and ten times the fun!
Image:Child+Giga+Mega+Hexa.jpg|link=Gidget The Gigapod|'''Gidget The Gigapod''' ([[Gidget The Gigapod|MORE INFO]]) Great for public demonstrations, Maker Spaces, and turning heads!
Image:VaseDazzlerPromoPicture-4-3.jpg|link=Vorpal Vase Dazzler|'''Vorpal Vase Dazzler Kit''' ([[Vorpal Vase Dazzler|MORE INFO]]
Image:Spinner-Lighting-Multicolor-3.jpg|link=Rainbow Fidget Spinner|'''Rainbow Fidget Spinner Kit''' ([[Rainbow Fidget Spinner|MORE INFO]])

</gallery>

== Popular Components ==
We also sell parts that are generally useful for robotics and electronics based projects that may or may not include 3D printed structures. Here are a few of the most popular, a complete
list is on the [http://store.vorpalrobotics.com Vorpal Robotics Store]
<gallery mode=packed heights=200>

Vorpal-Brand-MG90-cropped.jpg|link=Vorpal MG90 Micro Servo|'''Vorpal MG90 Micro Servo''' ([[Vorpal MG90 Micro Servo|MORE INFO]]) ([https://vorpal-robotics-store.myshopify.com/products/vorpal-brand-mg90-micro-servos PURCHASE]) Micro servo specifically designed for small robotics projects like our hexapod, manufactured by Tower Pro for Vorpal Robotics!

Hexapod-electrical-system.jpg|link=Vorpal Factory Paired Bluetooth Modules|'''Regulated Electrical System''' ([[Vorpal Regulated Electrical System|MORE INFO]]) ([https://vorpal-robotics-store.myshopify.com/products/vorpal-hexapod-electrical-system PURCHASE]) Several choices for battery holder, 5V3A BEC for power regulation, and a nice on/off switch for your projects.

DPAD-Button-Module.jpg|link=DPAD Button Module|'''DPAD Button Module''' ([[DPAD Button Module|MORE INFO]]) ([https://vorpal-robotics-store.myshopify.com/products/vorpal-dpad-button-module PURCHASE]) Four directional buttons plus one extra to activate an actuator, and it only requires a single analog port and a few "if" statements to decode which button is pressed.

Button-Matrix-4x4.jpg|link=Button Matrix 4x4|'''Button Matrix 4x4''' ([[Button Matrix 4x4|MORE INFO]]) ([https://vorpal-robotics-store.myshopify.com/products/button-matrix-4x4 PURCHASE]) Sixteen buttons that can be individually accessed, including the ability to detect when multiple buttons are held down at the same time. Requires 8 analog or digital ports (any combination) to decode.
</gallery>

==Vorpal Robotics Forum==
You can visit our [https://groups.google.com/forum/#!forum/vorpal-robotics-forum VORPAL ROBOTICS FORUM] to get online support and share ideas about Vorpal Robotics products.

== What's With the Funny Names? ==
The word Vorpal comes from the classic Lewis Carroll nonsense poem ''[https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jabberwocky Jaberwocky]''. The word Vorpal represents a powerful weapon used to slay an evil monster, the fearsome Jabberwock. To us, it symbolizes using powerful technologies to solve problems. See [[Jaberwocky by Lewis Carroll]].

Gidget The Gigapod User Guide

2024-03-21T12:49:33Z

Vorpalwiki: /* Experimental */

==Introduction==
Gidget the Gigapod works identically to Vorpal the Hexapod. It has all the same dance and walking modes, programming capabilities, etc. So the Vorpal hexapod user guide also applies to Gidget the Gigapod.

The same type of cautions regarding damage to the servo motors should be observed with Gidget the Gigapod.

==Experimental==
Please note that the Gigapod is considered an experimental project at this time. Fewer than 10 of them are known to have been built worldwide right now, so this project is less refined and less tested than our other projects.

As such, this project is only appropriate for experienced robotics hobbyists who are aware of safe handling procedures for powerful batteries and motors. If you do not have that level of experience, you should start with smaller, more refined robotics projects first, such as our Vorpal Hexapod.

==Safety Warnings: Do not touch the Gigapod while operation, remove battery before picking up==
In addition to all the safety warnings for our smaller hexapod projects, in addition this project has an additional warning. The motors are extremely powerful on this hexapod and if fingers got in the way of the legs they could be broken, crushed, or even amputated. For this reason, extreme caution should be used when operating the hexapod. No spectator should be allowed near the Gigapod. The Gigapod should always be powered off and battery removed before picking up. (Not just turned off! Battery must be removed completely to guard against accidentally hitting the ON switch while carrying).

The safety stickers provided with our kits (or which you can print yourself from the Assembly Guide) are not an optional item. They should be installed on the robot body such that they can be seen from any side of the robot, in order to warn onlookers.

==Recommended Battery==

The recommended battery to run the gigapod's motors is a 7-cell NIMH (8.4 volts) with 4000 to 5000 mAh capacity. Going much below 4000 mAh will result in runtime that is too low, going much above 5000 mAh will put too much weight strain on the robot.

The battery we typically use in demonstrations is this one: [https://www.batteryspace.com/nimhbatterypack84v4200mahhumpbatterypacksforrctraxxasandlosietc.aspx BatterySpace 4200 mAH 8.4V NIMH] with the 14 gauge wire option, and we solder on an XT60 male connector in-house. You will get about 30 minutes of run time. Be extremely cautious when soldering a connector on a powerful battery. There are youtube videos that show the proper way to do it.

The robot also needs a 9v battery (to run the electronics), and the gamepad needs another 9v battery. We recommend rechargeable NIMH or LI-ON for this purpose.

==Note on Battery Life==

Because of the way things scale as you move up in size, Gidget does not have as long battery life as the smaller hexapods. The recommended battery will provide about 30 minutes of use. Using a battery that is larger may stress the servo motors too much due to weight of the batteries. This means that if you plan on using Gidget for public demonstrations that last much more than 30 minutes, you should have several spare batteries charged and ready to swap in.

As with our other hexapod projects, as soon as Gidget struggles to stand and move, you should discontinue use and swap in new batteries. Running on low batteries may permanently damage the batteries and overheat and damage the servos (which are very expensive).

==Some Motions May Not Work Well==

Some dance moves and walking modes may not work as well for this large hexapod as they do with our smaller versions. It's best to avoid dance modes that seem to struggle and strain. We may change the Gigapod software in the future to disable these modes entirely.

Some of the motions that are known to have trouble are: Teeter Totter dance modes, Belly Crawl walking mode.

More may be added to this list over time as we continue refining and testing the project.

==Note on Reflashing the Robot Code==
Right now the software is the same for all three sizes of hexapod (Vorpal the Hexapod, Max the Megapod, Gidget the Gigapod). The only difference is a single timing parameter that should be set for the larger robots. If you reflash the robot code, make sure you change the line:

<code>#define HEXSIZE 0</code>

To this for the Megapod:

<code>#define HEXSIZE 1</code>

And to this for the Gigapod:

<code>#define HEXSIZE 2</code>

This changes how fast commands are sent to the servo motors. In general, larger motors require a bit more time to reach their commanded position. Failing to make this change may result in walking modes not functioning as expected, because the servo move commands come in too fast for the larger servo motors.

Gidget The Gigapod User Guide

2024-03-20T14:25:50Z

Vorpalwiki: /* Note on Battery Life */

==Introduction==
Gidget the Gigapod works identically to Vorpal the Hexapod. It has all the same dance and walking modes, programming capabilities, etc. So the Vorpal hexapod user guide also applies to Gidget the Gigapod.

The same type of cautions regarding damage to the servo motors should be observed with Gidget the Gigapod.

==Experimental==
Please note that the Gigapod is considered an experimental project at this time. Fewer than 10 of them are known to have been built worldwide right now, so this project is less refined and less tested than our other projects.

==Safety Warnings: Do not touch the Gigapod while operation, remove battery before picking up==
In addition to all the safety warnings for our smaller hexapod projects, in addition this project has an additional warning. The motors are extremely powerful on this hexapod and if fingers got in the way of the legs they could be broken, crushed, or even amputated. For this reason, extreme caution should be used when operating the hexapod. No spectator should be allowed near the Gigapod. The Gigapod should always be powered off and battery removed before picking up. (Not just turned off! Battery must be removed completely to guard against accidentally hitting the ON switch while carrying).

The safety stickers provided with our kits (or which you can print yourself from the Assembly Guide) are not an optional item. They should be installed on the robot body such that they can be seen from any side of the robot, in order to warn onlookers.

==Recommended Battery==

The recommended battery to run the gigapod's motors is a 7-cell NIMH (8.4 volts) with 4000 to 5000 mAh capacity. Going much below 4000 mAh will result in runtime that is too low, going much above 5000 mAh will put too much weight strain on the robot.

The battery we typically use in demonstrations is this one: [https://www.batteryspace.com/nimhbatterypack84v4200mahhumpbatterypacksforrctraxxasandlosietc.aspx BatterySpace 4200 mAH 8.4V NIMH] with the 14 gauge wire option, and we solder on an XT60 male connector in-house. You will get about 30 minutes of run time. Be extremely cautious when soldering a connector on a powerful battery. There are youtube videos that show the proper way to do it.

The robot also needs a 9v battery (to run the electronics), and the gamepad needs another 9v battery. We recommend rechargeable NIMH or LI-ON for this purpose.

==Note on Battery Life==

Because of the way things scale as you move up in size, Gidget does not have as long battery life as the smaller hexapods. The recommended battery will provide about 30 minutes of use. Using a battery that is larger may stress the servo motors too much due to weight of the batteries. This means that if you plan on using Gidget for public demonstrations that last much more than 30 minutes, you should have several spare batteries charged and ready to swap in.

As with our other hexapod projects, as soon as Gidget struggles to stand and move, you should discontinue use and swap in new batteries. Running on low batteries may permanently damage the batteries and overheat and damage the servos (which are very expensive).

==Some Motions May Not Work Well==

Some dance moves and walking modes may not work as well for this large hexapod as they do with our smaller versions. It's best to avoid dance modes that seem to struggle and strain. We may change the Gigapod software in the future to disable these modes entirely.

Some of the motions that are known to have trouble are: Teeter Totter dance modes, Belly Crawl walking mode.

More may be added to this list over time as we continue refining and testing the project.

==Note on Reflashing the Robot Code==
Right now the software is the same for all three sizes of hexapod (Vorpal the Hexapod, Max the Megapod, Gidget the Gigapod). The only difference is a single timing parameter that should be set for the larger robots. If you reflash the robot code, make sure you change the line:

<code>#define HEXSIZE 0</code>

To this for the Megapod:

<code>#define HEXSIZE 1</code>

And to this for the Gigapod:

<code>#define HEXSIZE 2</code>

This changes how fast commands are sent to the servo motors. In general, larger motors require a bit more time to reach their commanded position. Failing to make this change may result in walking modes not functioning as expected, because the servo move commands come in too fast for the larger servo motors.

Vorpal The Hexapod Games and Activities

2023-03-27T21:36:48Z

Vorpalwiki:

{{float_box|{{VCH Quick Links}} }}

==Introduction==
This page documents activities that use one or more Vorpal Hexapods. We are continually adding to this list. Feel free to suggest your own ideas and we will consider including them on this page with credit to the person who suggested them. We will even give Vorpal Hexapod t-shirts to a random selection of contributors! (USA shipping only at the present.) Send your suggested activities to activities@vorpalrobotics.com

==Activities that Do Not Require Accessories or ScratchX Programming ==

The activities in this section only require the Vorpal Hexapod and Gamepad, and sometimes common household items. After building the robot and gamepad and doing some tests, you should first become familiar with the gamepad functions. Although there are sixty different motions built in to the gamepad, they are organized in a way that makes them fairly easy to learn. Once you have learned the basics, these simple activities will help you learn how to rapidly switch between different leg motions to solve problems!

[[Vorpal Hexapod Activity: Race]]

[[Vorpal Hexapod Activity: Obstacle Course]]

[[Vorpal Hexapod Activity: Manual Dance Contest]]

[[Vorpal Hexapod Activity: Recorded Dance Contest]]

[[Vorpal Hexapod Activity: Engineering Concept: Repeatability]]

==Activities that Require Accessories==
[[Vorpal Hexapod Activity: Fidget Spinner Challenge]]

[[Vorpal Hexapod Activity: Joust]]

[[Vorpal Hexapod Activity: Capture the Flag]]

[[Vorpal Hexapod Activity: Search and Rescue]]

== Activities That Require ScratchX Programming ==
NOTE: Scratch is currently not available while we port over to the MIT Scratch 3 system. This is not very easy for us to do because MIT no longer supports 3rd party extensions, but we are working on it.

[[Vorpal Hexapod Activity: Programmed Dance Contest]]

[[Vorpal Hexapod Activity: Create a New Move]]

[[Vorpal Hexapod Activity: Climb the Mountain]]

[[Vorpal Hexapod Activity: Autonomous Navigation]]

[[Vorpal Hexapod Activity: Hexapod Artist]]

[[Vorpal Hexapod Activity: Hexapod Musician]]

{{Vorpal Quick Links}}

Vorpal Hexapod Supporters

2023-03-25T17:49:36Z

Vorpalwiki: /* Other acknowledgements */

==About Our Supporters==
Vorpal the Hexapod was launched as a Kickstarter campaign on September 12, 2017. The project was successfully funded on October 17, 2017 and pledges came in at 213% of goal! Hundreds of hexapods were claimed as rewards by our backers!
This page lists all of our backers, without whom this project would have never seen the light of day!
==Diamond Supporters==
* Ken & Cinde, Reno, NV (Philanthropist)
==Gold Supporters==
*AJB
*Askpete, Sydney
*Daniel Campoverde
*Ryan and Jason Cavaliere
*Christine from Broken Arrow
*Diana Cortez
*Hank Cowdog
*Jeff D.
*Danal, Shady Shores, TX
*DJ Douglass
*Kent F., Spicewood, Texas
*Thomas F., Ulm, Germany
*Michael H. Fischer, Germany
*Harry Franklin
*Dean Fresolone
*Dallas G.
*Georg - Denver
*Julia & Carsten Gotschlich
*Mitchell Hirsch
*Alex van Hoboken, Rotterdam
*JEDI Family
*Antonia Jenkins
*Duane Kimball
*Katja Klahr, Stockholm, Sweden
*Vasiliy L, Russia
*Michael Laws
*Russell, Cynthia, and Evan LeChard
*Ryan Lippens
*Scott M.
*Mark, Scotts Valley
*Your Boi Max
*Bob Newberry
*Michel Ouellette
*Manuel P.
*Natalia P.
*Scott P.
*Joe Perch
*Oriol Pujol Romanya
*Arthur S.
*Matthias Schleweis, West Vancouver, Canada
*Joachim Schmidt, Muelheim, Germany
*Jarrod Selsmark
*Jeremy Smith
*Prabhdial Sran
*Mark Stalzer
*Alexander Steinhardt
*Samuel Thrysøe
*P. Toal, Oakville, ON
*W. Tucker
*Craig Yurchison
*Jill W., Texas
*Priscilla & Wan-Hui
*Jeremy Wilkerson

==Silver Supporters==
*Steve A.
*S. Adamowicz
*Eric Albert
*Anonymous
*Armin
*David Asbell
*Athruz
*Donnie B.
*Joel B.
*Marco B.
*Mike B., Seattle
*Thom B.
*Ben, Buffalo
*Bernard, GATINEAU, Quebec
*BernieB
*Paul Bertrand
*Bob - Austin TX
*Miss Booksie
*Jacquin Buchanan
*David Budinich
*Bumblebee
*Michael Byrd
*Jerome Bzd
*Nola C.
*Tim C.
*Cave
*Caty Cherepakhov
*Cuda Engineering
*Mark D.
*Robin D.
*Laurent Daenen
*Aaron Darcy, Australia
*Matt Dayton
*ddsbv@free.fr
*Ladislav Dobias, Milovice, Czech Republic
*Stefan Doktor
*Mugs Drorsley
*David Duberman
*Michelle Duffy
*Aaron Dutton
*Shawn Edwards
*Andreas F.
*David F.
*Mike F.
*Tommy F.
*Ferdasek
*Gregg Faulkner
*Dave Faydel
*Chris Flossmann, Germany
*Andy Forsberg
*Andre Fowler
*Jaël G., Montréal
*Lance G.
*Frans Geeraert
*Heather Glasier, Alberta, Canada
*Dana Gregory
*Gus
*Joe H.
*Kimberly H.
*Stan H.
*Cheryl Harrigan
*Aaron Harris
*Morton Hatch
*Anders Hedberg Magnusson
*Steve Hunt
*Ivy's Papa
*Dr. Daniel Jackson, Maine
*Paul Jacobs
*P. Janovcik
*Jazzy
*JeffP50
*JML
*Daniel Th Jr Johansen
*Robert Justiana
*Matt K.
*Richard K. California
*David Krisohos
*Dave L. San Jose, CA
*Kelly L.
*Lateso
*Doug Leppard, Orlando, FL
*B. Linn
*Lucas, Berlin, New Jersey
*Keith M., Belgium
*Mecky M.
*Ray M.
*Tim M.
*Maia, Chicago, IL
*Amber MacLeod
*Mike McBeath - Greensburg, KS
*Ian McBratney
*Liam McMullan, Ireland
*Alicia B. Melbourne, Australia
*Metal89
*Brian J. Mims
*Stefano Minozzi
*Luciano Montanaro
*Ben N.
*NaG
*Marc Natanagara
*Jim Neill
*Matthew Newberg
*Nicholas
*Sean O.
*Alex Olshove
*Andrea P., www.3dmakify.it
*Peter P.
*P.S.
*Paddy, Hamburg
*Patrick
*Kenneth Pocek
*Heath Price
*Duane R. USA
*Michael R.
*Dwayne Reid
*R.F.W.
*Rob
*Andre S.
*Chuck S. - South Charleston WV
*Tom S.
*Sverre S.
*Markus Schneider
*Chris Schwarz
*Charlie Spink
*Stephan, Limburgerhof, Germany
*Stiftchen
*Malc (malcinator) Summerton
*Suzan
*Bob T.
*Mary T.
*Steve Thornton, Yorkshire, UK
*Jason Turnage
*Vinh V.
*Darren W.
*Kirby, Wantagh, NY
*Robert F. Walker III Ocala Fl.
*Bruce Wehrle
*Stefan Wode
*Andy Zilis

==Supporters==
*Adam Egginton
*Antonello Foà
*Martin Gerken
*Lapyu H.
*Moriya Hazime
*Markus Jöbstl
*Joshua Johnson

==Other acknowledgements==
Thanks to [https://drangstories.com science fiction author Peter S. Drang] for his design ideas on this project. [https://scifiwise.com Visit his latest project page.]

{{Vorpal Quick Links}}

Vorpal The Hexapod Assembly Instructions

2022-04-08T12:42:41Z

Vorpalwiki: /* Electrical Connectons: Gamepad */

{{float_box|{{VCH Quick Links}} }}
==VIDEO BUILD INSTRUCTIONS==
Besides the printed instructions further down on this page, we have two great video build tutorials created by Teaching Tech, a great YouTube channel. Please consider subscribing to "Teaching Tech," as they have great 3d printing related videos.
The printed instructions are diagrams may still be helpful in conjunction with these videos.

===Fast Overview of Quick Build Kit Assembly===
This is an overview video showing the general build procedure in just a few minutes.
If the video does not play on your device (or you want full screen), go directly to YouTube with this link: [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SynKUki6sd8 Vorpal Quick Build Overview Video]
 
<youtube>SynKUki6sd8|Vorpal Quick Build Kit Overview Video</youtube>
 

===Gamepad Build Video Tutorial (Bare Bones Kit)===
This is a detailed build video for the Bare Bones version of the Gamepad. If you have a Quick Build kit, all of the wiring is already done so you can skip a lot of this video. It is useful for showing how to place the components in the plastic case, which is the same procedure for Quick Build.

IMPORTANT NOTE: The kit was simplified after this video was made, there is no longer any power switch retainer plastic part. The power switch simply snaps into the gamepad housing directly without any screws.

If the video does not play on your device (or you want full screen), go directly to YouTube with this link: [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9ePTrEtEFWI TEACHING TECH GAMEPAD BUILD VIDEO]
 
<youtube>9ePTrEtEFWI|Gamepad Build</youtube>
 

===Hexapod Build Video Tutorial (Bare Bones Kit)===
If the video below does not play on your device (or you want full screen), go directly to YouTube with this link: [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cf1dBCwsE0o&rel=0 TEACHING TECH ROBOT BUILD VIDEO]

IMPORTANT NOTE: This video was made using the "Bare Bones" kit which requires a lot more assembly than the current "Quick Build" kits. It may still be useful for reference, because many of the steps are the same, such as plugging the servo wires into the servo controller. But there is no longer any need to make individual wire connections to the nano, for example, so those parts of the video can be skipped if you have the Quick Build kit.
 
<youtube>cf1dBCwsE0o|Hexapod Build</youtube>
 

==BILL OF MATERIALS (BOM) FOR VORPAL H12 HEXAPOD==
===Notes on Sourcing Parts===
* Full kits of parts as well as individual parts are available on [http://vorpal-robotics-store.myshopify.com The Vorpal Robotics Store]. If you are new to Arduino, wiring, and robotics we strongly recommend you purchase a kit instead of trying to self-source parts. The kits cut 3 to 4 hours off the build time, bringing it to typically 1 to 1.5 hours for Quickbuild kits and 2 to 2.5 hours for Bare Bones kits. The kits have all soldering done, programs are already loaded on the Nanos, Bluetooth modules are properly configured to auto-pair on boot, and you know you have all the right parts to work together.
* These instructions assume you have purchased a kit from us. If you are sourcing your own parts, please be aware of the following additional information:
**If you are sourcing your own parts, you need to build the switch/battery connector assembly. For diagrams see [[Vorpal Combat Hexapod Battery/Switch Construction]].
**Also see important information on that page if you are sourcing your own BEC.
**If you are sourcing your own Bluetooth modules, please be aware that you will need to configure them to auto-pair and to have a UART speed of 38400 BAUD. Every module brand is a bit different so it's not possible for us to give you universal instructions on how to program them. We assume that if you source your own parts you are familiar with how to configure Bluetooth modules using AT-commands.
* IMPORTANT NOTE ON SELF-SOURCED HC05 MODULES: It has come to our attention that some vendors are now selling HC05 modules that have an issue that causes extremely long lag times on transmissions (1.5 to 2 full seconds) due to an unusual way of buffering output. This makes the robot unusable due to nonresponsiveness. Unfortunately there is no visible model number or other information that allows you to tell which ones will have this issue just by looking at the vendor's listing. Please be aware that the HC05 modules we sell are the correct ones that don't have this issue. We are working on software changes that might solve this problem by changing how we pad out our radio packets, however that is considered beta code at this point (it might affect scratch programs). We are actively looking for some way to distinguish the bad modules from the good ones but there are just too many variations of this chip to be sure. In addition, some of the bad modules also have an issue where they overheat. The overheating does not have to do with the 3.3v TR pin, it happens even if a voltage divider is used on TR. We believe that one is just a defect in the circuit board. The bottom line is, yeah, you're getting extra value when you buy parts from us: we stand behind them and we make sure they work with this project.

=== ROBOT BOM ===
[[File:Choking-Hazard-Image.jpg|right|350px]]

* ''Electronics:''
** Passive Piezo Buzzer module and 3 wire cable (see image) [[File:Passive-Piezo-Buzzer-Module.jpg|right|thumb|Passive Piezo Buzzer Module]]
** Arduino Nano, 5V, 16 mHz, ATMEGA328 or similar (marked R in our kit to indicate it is pre-loaded with robot software)
** Rotary potentiometer, 10K Ohms, 6mm shaft diameter, with 3 wires pre-soldered. Also, matching dial cap and nut.
** 1 x HC05 BlueTooth Module with 4 x F-F jumper wires for making connections (Note: the HC05 has six pins but only four are used in this project. Also, this is in the Gamepad Parts bag if you purchase our kit.)
** 1 x Servo Controller module (Adafruit 16-channel 12-bit I2C PWM/Servo driver or Adafruit clone) with F-F jumper wires for making connections, plus 1 two-pin shunt tying V+ to VCC
** 12 x MG90 micro servo motors and associated servo horns (you will only use the single-arm horn). NOTE: If your kit includes O-rings or washers, you will need to use those on the shaft of the hip servos only. These are needed for digital servos only. Many counterfeit servos claim to be digital but are really analog and don't need the washers. For more information see [[Tower Pro MG90S Vs. Clones]].
** 1 x Power distribution wiring with on/off switch, Battery holder for two 18650 cells, 3A 5V BEC, and female connectors to distribute power. If you are self-sourcing see our [[Vorpal The Hexapod Battery/Switch Construction|Circuit Diagrams]].
* ''3D Printed Parts:''
** 1 x Chassis
** 1 x Cap
** 6 x Legs (individually marked with servo numbers)
** 1 x Switch adapter
** 12 x Servo bracket U-shaped halves
** 1 x Electronics Caddy
** 1 x Stand
** 1 x Eye/glasses Decoration
** 1 x Joust game accessory with "rider"
** 1 x Capture the Flag game accessory with flag and cup.
** 1 x Fidget Spinner Challenge game accessory (no Fidget Spinner, just the stand)
** 1 x Ultrasonic Rangefinder Bracket
* ''Miscellaneous:''
** 9 x 10mm diameter pairs of hook and loop self-stick circular dots. These go on the hexapod cap (hook) and accessories like eyes and nameplates (loop).
** 7 x 10mm diameter by 3mm thick ceramic magnet, north pole marked. These are for Capture-the-Flag and Joust accessories. (Note: Not included in Bare Bones kit).
** 12 x socket head cap screw, 2.5mm diameter by 8mm long (for servo horns)
** 3 x #6-32 x 1/2" screw to fasten on/off switch adapter (2) and to hold electronics caddy on chassis (3)
** 2 x #6-32 x 3/4" screw for bottom two holes in accessory port.
** 2 x #6-32 x 1/2" screw for top two holes in the accessory port.
** 4 x #6-32 nuts to hold screws in accessory port.
** 2 x #6-32 wingnuts to attach accessories to accessory port.
** 1 x L shaped hex driver, 2mm, for both kinds of screw used in the kit.

=== GAMEPAD BOM ===
[[File:Choking-Hazard-Image.jpg|right|350px]]
* ''Electronics:''
** 1 x Battery/Switch Wiring Unit with 9v battery clip. (Note: the gamepad requires no BEC so you can use this fact to distinguish from the robot wiring unit)
** 1 x 4x4 button matrix with associated connecting wires. The matrix we use is marked YL-102 in the corner. See the picture. It's blue and has the keys number K1 through K16. You may be able to use others but the pin numbers may differ. [[File:4x4-Matrix.png|right|250px]]
** 1 x Dpad Button module with associated connecting wires. The one we use is marked Keyes_AD_Key and has yellow buttons and a red circuit board. See picture. [[File:Keyes-AD-Key.PNG|right|250px]]
** 1 x HC05 Bluetooth module and four wires to connect it
** 1 x microSD Card Reader module and six wires to connect it, and a microSD card that is compatible with the Arduino SD library. A microSD card is required for record/play features to work. The capacity should be 2 gb or less, either SD or SDHC format. The gamepad can be used to format the card for use by Arduino (hold down W4 while booting the gamepad, count to 10 slowly, release W4).
** 1 x Ardunio Nano, 5V, 16 mHz, ATMEGA328 or similar (marked "G" in our kit to indicate it is pre-loaded with Gamepad software). Note: For MAC users it is far easier to get Scratch to work if the gamepad Nano uses an FTDI serial chip instead of a CHG34X chip. Our kits use the more expensive FTDI version of the Nano in the Gamepad for this reason.
* ''3D Printed Plastic Parts:''
** 1 x Gamepad base plastic part
** 1 x Gamepad top plastic part
** 1 x Gamepad button carrier
** NOTE: Gamepad Base versions before April 2018 also required 1 x Switch Adapter
* ''Fasteners:''
** 4 x #6-32 x 1/2" screw to hold cover on gamepad (4) and also to hold switch adapter on base (2)
** NOTE: Gamepad Base versions before April 2018 also required 2 more of these screws to hold on the switch adapter.

=== Sensors ===
These are included in the Deluxe version of our kit. They're mainly useful for Scratch programming activities.
* 1 x HCSR04 Ultrasonic Rangefinder
* 1 x Analog Light sensor
* 1 x 30cm USB cord type A to mini

==3D Printing the Plastic Parts==

===Obtaining the STL Files===

You can find all the current STL files here: [http://tinyurl.com/VORPALFILES VORPAL FILES]. Go to the STL folder. The Vorpal Hexapod STLs are in the subfolder ROBOT and the gamepad parts are in GAMEPAD. There are subfolders with accessories (such as sensor housings and game pieces).

===Printing Notes and Tips===

This project has been finely tuned to make it easy to 3D print. No supports are required for any of the parts. In some cases you may want to use brims or rafts to help parts adhere to the print surface. There is minimal bridging, never farther than about 15mm (5/8"). Some of the parts do require some flexibility, for example the sides of the servo compartments need to bend outward while the servos are inserted, they then snap back into place when the servo is completely inserted. This means brittle plastics like PLA are not the best choice for this project. (Although we have made PLA hexapods and they do work if you're careful when inserting the servos).

This page assumes you have basic familiarity with 3D printing and 3D printing terminology. If not, you might want to reference online materials such as youtube videos or information from your 3D printer manufacturer before attempting this project.

If you are 3D printing the plastic parts (as opposed to buying them pre-printed), here are some tips.

* MINIMUM PRINTER REQUIREMENTS
** The bed size should be at least 150mm cube (5.9 inches cube). The largest part is the hexapod base so it is the limiting factor on bed size.
** A heated bed is strongly recommended, especially if you are printing in ABS.
* RECOMMENDED PLASTICS
** ABS and PETG both work well. When we sell Full Kits and Assembled Vorpals we use ABS.
** PLA is somewhat brittle, but it will work if you're careful. Inserting the servos into the legs and hips will somewhat flex the plastic so be careful during that process with PLA. Attaching the two halves of the leg hinges together can be more successful in PLA if you first soak the hinges in very hot tap water to soften up the plastic a bit.
* PRINT SETTINGS. We print using the following settings on a Lulzbot TAZ 6 or Lulzbot Mini with 0.5mm nozzle:
** 0.38 layer thickness (or whatever layer thickness is optimal for your printer)
** 1mm walls (i.e. two perimeters)
** 1.14mm top and bottom (i.e. three layers)
** 15% infill
** You can print with thinner layers if your printer does not support 0.38mm layers or if you want a more refined look, it will just take longer.
* BRIMS AND RAFTS
** Brims or rafts are recommended for the following hexapod parts: Base, Legs, Electronics Caddy, Cap. This ensures proper bed retention to avoid warping. These parts have relatively little contact area with the print bed, or have certain sections with little contact.
** Brims/rafts are not recommended on any of the other parts. The other parts generally have enough bed surface contact that they will print fine without brims. Your mileage may vary however and it is recommended that you keep a close eye on the first few layers of the print to make sure everything is sticking properly. If not, you can cancel the job with minimal loss of plastic then restart with brims or rafts.
** We personally prefer brims (such as available in Cura) as they are easy to remove and leave a clean look.
* POST PRINT
**Other than removing brims/rafts and the occasional drip, there is not any special post-processing required after printing.
**However, be very careful to inspect the hemispheres jutting out of one side of each of the servo holders, these need to be as low friction as possible. Inspect for drips and defects. If necessary, use a file or sand paper to smooth them out.

== Building the Robot ==

You will need the following tools:
* 2mm hex key. A 5/64 inch hex key will also work. This is in the Hexapod Parts bag. (NOTE: Some very early kits put this in the Deluxe Parts Bag).
* A marker that can write on dark plastic and still be seen, such as Sharpie Metallic or Sharpie Oil markers (white and yellow work great).
** This is the easiest way to mark servo wires with their corresponding leg number
** If you don't have these types of marker, you could use clear tape and bits of paper to tape wire labels near the socket end of the servo cable. Don't put labels right on the black plastic connectors at the end of the servo because you'll make them too thick to fit side by side when plugged in.
===Servo Pre Check===
Sometimes the servo motor gearbox will get locked up when sitting for a long time, for example during shipping, especially in cold weather. The following procedure will ensure they work properly. (Note: Some MG90S servo bags distributed in the past with our kits say not to turn the servo horn, these instructions supercede that note on the bag).

* Put a one-arm servo horn on each servo. You don't need a screw, just put it on in any random position for now.
* ''Slowly'' and ''gently'' rock the servo horn by hand so it turns. Do not use a lot of force. Note that there is a physical stop that only allows it to turn 180 degrees. If you push in one direction and it won't move, rock it in the other direction.
* As soon as it moves, even just 10 or 20 degrees in either direction, you've confirmed the servo is not locked. Do not leave it at an extreme position where it stops, leave it somewhere around the middle.
If any servo fails to move with modest pressure and a gentle rocking motion, put a mark on that servo, near where the wire comes out. It will most likely unfreeze when power is applied, but you need to keep an eye on it for now.

===Step by Step Instructions===

*'''STEP 1: Insert accessory port screws in the chassis''' Insert 5/8" #6-32 hex head screws in the bottom two holes of the accessory port, head of the screw inside the hexapod, then tighten nuts outside. Repeat for the top two accessory holes with shorter 1/2" #6-32 hex head screws. The heads of the screws recess into hexogonal holes so you don't need to use pliers inside the robot body, just for the nuts. Two wingnuts go on the two lower screws, these will be used to secure accessories such as the Joust lance or Capture-the-Flag attachment.
<gallery mode=packed>
File:Hexhead-Screw.JPG|Be sure to use the hex head screws for the accessory port.
File:Accessory-Port-Diagram-V2.JPG|The accessory port is considered the "front" of the robot.
File:Accessory-Port-Screws.JPG|Longer hex head screws go on the bottom. Do not overtighten the nuts.
File:Wing-Nuts-Installed.JPG|After installing the nuts, put the wingnuts on the bottom screws. They'll be used later to secure accessories.
</gallery>
*'''STEP 2: Insert servos in the chassis.'''
** Next, insert the servo into the chassis as shown in the diagrams below. As you insert the servo into the chassis, slowly press it straight into place until it clicks in under the small tab on one side of the servo holder. Make sure it stays straight as you push down.
** Immediately mark the black connector at the end of the wire to indicate the servo number (which is engraved in the top of the servo holder, a number between 0 and 5).
*** A metallic sharpie pen works very well for this, or a light colored oil paint sharpie such as white.
*** If you don't have any of those things, a little piece of masking tape can be affixed to the wire and marked, or you could use clear cellophane tape to attach little bits of marked paper to the wire. Do not attach any tape or paper to the black connector, as it will be a tight fit when connecting later.
*** The wire coming out of the servo sticks out away from the robot, the servo shaft would face down toward the table top if the chassis were resting on the table.
** After inserting the servo, thread the wire through the top servo wire guide hole, and into the center of the chassis.
[[File:ServoChassisInsert.png|400px|Insert Servo in Chassis]]
[[File:spacerimage.png|100px|Insert Servo in Chassis]]
[[File:ServoHipInserted.png|140px|Insert Servo in Chassis]]
* '''STEP 3: Insert the servos in the Legs.''' The technique is very similar to inserting the servo into the chassis.
**Insert the servo straight into the leg socket so that the wire is coming out of the servo facing away from the plastic leg and the face of the servo with the shaft and servo horn goes into the open faced side of the leg, as shown in the diagram.
**The servos in the legs are called the "knee" servos. Each leg has a higher number on it, this is the knee number, they run from 6 to 11. Again, write this number on the black connector at the end of the servo wire. PRO TIP: For 6 and 9, underline the number so you don't read them upside down!
[[File:Servo-Insert-Leg-v2.png|350px|Insert Servo in Legs]]
[[File:spacerimage.png|100px|Insert Servo in Chassis]]
[[File:Servo-Leg-Inserted-v2.png|350px|Insert Servo in Legs]]
* '''STEP 4: Thread each leg servo wire''' into the bottom wire guide slot on the chassis. Each leg servo should be matched with a hip servo plus 6. The legs are marked with the hip number near the top and the knee number below that. For example, the leg marked 6 should be threaded through the wire guide on hip servo 0, leg 7 goes with hip 1, leg 8 goes with hip 2, etc. Add 6 to the hip number to get the leg number.
* '''STEP 5: Build the electrical system.''' You need to power up the servos and make them seek to the 90 degree position, this will allow you to adjust the legs properly for walking.
** STEP 5A: Take the potentiometer and remove the cap, then unscrew the nut and set these items aside for now. Push the potentiometer shaft from the inside of the chassis, into the hole that has the markings "STOP", "TST", etc. The wires coming out of the potentiometer should be pointing down and you may need to bend them a bit to make it all fit. Put the retaining nut on the potentiometer, hand tighten first and then give it just another half turn or so with pliers if desired. Turn the knob all the way counter clockwise, then insert the knob so it points to the letter "O" in the word "STOP".
** STEP 5B: Find the on/off switch (which is attached to the battery holder assembly). There was a change to how this was installed in October, 2019. The older version requires a "switch adapter," while the new version just uses a slot to feed in the wires. The two sets of diagrams below illustrate both the old and the new way of installing the switch.
New Version Switch Installation:
<gallery mode=packed heights=200>
File:NewSwitchInstall-Step1.jpg|Thread the switch and its wires through the Base, there is an opening under the switch hole.
File:NewSwitchInstall-Step2.jpg|Bring the wires up through the slot below the switch hole.
File:NewSwitchInstall-Step3.jpg|Press the switch into the hole, it should snap into place. The "1" should be on top.
</gallery>
Old Version Switch Installation (before about mid October 2019):
<gallery mode=packed>
File:Assembly-Switch-Bracket-Insertion.JPG|Thread the wires through the gap in the adapter
File:Assembly-Switch-Bracket-Done.JPG|Press the switch into the adapter.
File:Assembly-Switch-Bracket-Insertion-into-Base.JPG|From the inside of the robot, line up the switch/adapter with the switch hole.
File:Assembly-Switch-Bracket-in-Base.JPG|While holding the switch/adapter in place, insert screws from the outside of the robot.
</gallery>
** STEP 5C: If you do not have a "QuickBuild" version of the kit, then make all the connections listed in the ELECTRICAL CONNECTIONS section of these instructions below. Be extremely careful about the power connections. Double check all connections before powering on. If you do have a QuickBuild kit, all the connections are already made for you.
[[File:Servo-Horn-Orientation.png|thumb|right|The servo horn should come straight out from the body at a 90 degree angle as shown here. Do not turn the servo shaft by hand until after it has moved under power!]]
* '''STEP 6: Power up!''' Make sure the on/off switch is off, and the knob is turned to STOP. Insert batteries and power on the robot using the on/off switch. You should hear a beep, a pause, then a second beep. The servos should all twitch into position. If the robot does not move at all, immediately turn the switch off and check your connections again. If some of the servos don't move (especially any you marked during the servo pre-check) then gently push them with power off to see if you can free them up. If they still won't move, try pushing them with power applied, but turn off the power within 30 seconds if they're locked up. If you can't get the servo to move it will need to be replaced.
* '''STEP 7: Insert Servo Horns.''' The servo horns are all at random angles right now due to the servo pre-check. In this step we'll make them point in the right direction. The knee servos are not at 90 degrees when the knob is all the way counter clockwise, rather they are at a 30 degree standing angle. We need to get them to 90 degrees so its easy to align the servo horn. Turn the knob very slightly clockwise and you will see all the knee servos twitch. This is "adjust servo horn mode". All servos (knees and hips) are now at their halfway point, 90 degrees. Now you need to take each single arm servo horn and carefully insert it on the shaft so that it is sticking straight out as shown in the figure. You will not always be able to make the horn come totally straight out. This is because there are only 22 little groves (splines) in each shaft, meaning you can in general only come within about 8 degrees of being at a perfect 90 degree angle. This amount of error is acceptable, just get it as close as you can. It is better for the horn to be a little too much clockwise than to be a little too much counterclockwise, especially for the knees. Do this for all hip and knee servos. Do not insert any screws yet.
[[File:Servo-Bracket-Alignment-v1.png|thumb|350px|right|Align the leg hinges as shown here. The bumps (see arrows) should both be near each other when properly aligned. Hold one in each hand with the ends of the U shape between thumb and forefinger.]]
* '''STEP 8: Assemble the leg hinges'''. Each leg hinge is composed of two identical U-shaped parts. Take one in each hand and align the two so that the bump (shown in the diagram at the right) are both near each other. Turn one 90 degrees with respect to the other.
**Gently squeeze each piece between thumb and forefinger, which causes the little jaws in the center to open up slightly. Work the two halves together. Squeeze just enough so they work their way on, no more or you might break the part!.
**At this stage, you may notice that the parts are loosely clamped on each other. Don't worry! When you place the leg hinges over a servo, the servo will spread it apart and they will lock together tightly.
* '''STEP 9: Attach Leg Hinges.''' The leg hinges connect the hips to the knees. They only go on one way. First place the end that matches the servo horn on, then you need to very slightly bend the U shaped piece while pulling it over the hemispherical bearing on the other side. It's a little easier to do the knees (servos mounted to legs) first, followed by the hips (servos on base).
**NOTE: It should not be excessively difficult to push the hinge over the hemispherical bearing. If you find you are struggling, that means the hinges are too tight. This may affect walking. This can be due to the kind of plastic you used or how your printer is adjusted. You may need to gently spread the two legs of the U shape by hand before putting the hinge on the robot. Be careful of course not to break the hinge.
* '''STEP 10: Test Knee Positions.''' Turn the knob fully counter clockwise (to STOP) and the robot will go into "stand still" mode. Place it on a level surface such as a table top. Do all of the legs touch the ground? If one or more legs don't touch the ground, you need to adjust the servo horn on the knee a little bit so it does touch. Gently pull off the servo bracket. Pull the servo horn off, and put it back on just a little bit moved so the leg would move closer to the ground. Put the servo bracket back on, and see how it looks. Do this until all legs are at least slightly touching the ground. Again, you can't necessarily be perfect due to the 8 degree increments the servo horns can be moved. But you should be able to be close enough that all legs at least slightly touch the ground.
* '''STEP 11: Insert Servo Screws.''' Now that the legs are adjusted, you can insert the M2.5x8 screws into the servo horns to lock them in place. Note that you will NOT be using the screws that were in the little bag the servos came in, you'll be using the separate pack of screws, which are longer than the ones in the servo bag. Do not overtighten these screws, as you could possibly crack the servo brackets. Just turn the screws until you start to feel resistance, then turn a quarter turn more and stop.
* '''STEP 12: Test Individual Servos.''' To test whether every servo is working, put the robot on its stand. Then start with the knob on STOP, then slowly turn it clockwise. First the servos will go into adjust mode, you used that a moment ago to set the servo horns. But, keep going, and the robot will go into "individual servo test mode". In this mode, every hip servo will move, one by one. When all the hips have moved, every leg will move, one by one. You should see every servo move, in order. If some don't move, check your connections. A common error is to plug a servo connector into the servo controller backwards (i.e. the brown wire is matched with the yellow pin instead of the black pin).
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| <youtube>5T7E1IqHxNc|Electronics Caddy Tutorial</youtube>
|}
* '''STEP 13: Test Using Demo Mode.''' Ok, everything looks good, so time for a full test. Turn the knob to STOP, then take the robot off the stand and put it on the floor. Turn the knob to DEMO, and the robot will go through a series of movements to demonstrate some of the things it can do. The full demo only takes about 30 seconds, then repeats. Here, you are looking for the robot to, for example, be able to get back up off the floor after doing some of its dance moves. If the robot struggles to get off the floor, you may have a battery that is not fully charged, or there may be too much friction between the servo bracket and the little ball socket it sits in. A tiny bit of silicone lubricant will usually fix that problem, or just make sure those parts are cleaned up from 3D printing and don't have an excess strands of material that are causing friction. See the [[Vorpal Combat_Hexapod Troubleshooting Guide|Trouble Shooting Guide]] for more information about different kinds of issues that can occur.
* '''STEP 14: Store the Electronics in the Caddy''' Now things look pretty messy with all those wires hanging loose, let's clean it up by stowing them in the electronics caddy. Please reference the video and diagrams here for quick instructions.
** '''STEP 14A: Insert Caddy Bars''' Insert the two electronics caddy bars as shown in the diagrams below. Notice carefully how they are inserted. You may need to slightly squeeze the forked section at the end to work it into the hole. Once inside, it may be difficult to remove because it will snap into place, so be sure you're putting it in the right way.
<gallery mode=packed>
File:Electronics-Caddy-Insert-Bar.JPG|Here one bar has already been inserted, the other is being put into place. Notice the orientation, don't put it in upside down. The little nubs at the end should be facing the caddy.
</gallery>
** '''STEP 14B: Insert the Servo Controller and Arduino Nano''' The diagrams here do not show the wires to make them easier to visualize. Carefully insert the servo controller as shown, making sure you don't pull out any of the wires. You may need to wiggle the electronics caddy bar from side to side a bit so that components can slide past it during insertion. Notice that the end of the Servo controller with wires sticking out of it must go in last. Carefully insert the Arduino Nano as shown, making sure you don't pull out any of the wires. You may need to wiggle the electronics caddy bar from side to side a bit so that components can slide past it during insertion. Notice that the end of the Nano that has the USB port must go in last.
<gallery mode=packed>
File:Electronics-Caddy-Insert-ServoController.JPG|Insert the servo controller so it is sandwiched between the bar and the electronics caddy. Wires not shown for clarity.
File:Electronics-Caddy-Insert-Nano.JPG|Insert the Nano so that the USB port faces out away from the electronics caddy, this allows you to access it without disassembling the robot.
File:Electronics-Caddy-Assembled-Underside.JPG|This is what the underside of the electronics caddy looks like after inserting the Servo Controller and Arduino Nano. Wires not shown for clarity.
</gallery>
** '''STEP 14C: Insert the HC05 Bluetooth Module''' The diagrams here do not show the wires to make them easier to visualize. The HC05 Bluetooth module with a name beginning with "S" should be used for the robot. For example, the label will read something like "VORP S2944" (the number will differ). The one marked "M" will be used for the gamepad. Slide the HC05 into the side drawer as shown. When inserting, be careful not to pull out the wires, which will be a little tight. Work the wires into the little space provided so they stay clear of the robot's cap when it gets screwed on later.
<gallery mode=packed>
File:Electronics-Caddy-Insert-HC05.JPG|Insert the HC05 into the side drawer as shown.
File:Electronics-Caddy-Assembled-HC05.JPG|When fully inserted, the indicator light will still be visible through the small oval. The wires should be tucked into the little cavity near the pins of the HC05.
</gallery>
* '''STEP 15: Assemble the Cap'''
** '''STEP 15A: Put hook-and-loop dots in the Cap''' Insert a "hook" circular self-stick dot in each of the 10mm circular holder areas in the cap. Do not use the fuzzy "loop" side of the hook-and-loop pair, use the "hook" side of the pair. Press firmly so the glue backing sticks firmly to the plastic. NOTE: Older versions of this project used magnets on the cap and eye decorations. If you are assembling an older version, press the magnet into the cap firmly (you may need to use pliers) and make sure the marked face (north pole) is showing. On accessories like eyes, make sure the unmarked face (south pole) is showing.
** '''STEP 15B: Decorate''' If desired, use a permanent marker to color the Vorpal "V" on top of the Cap. Oil markers work well. On light colors of plastic a black permanent marker will also work.
** '''STEP 15C: Put Cap on the Hexapod''' Screw the cap on the robot by lining up the tabs with the matching slots in the rim of the base. Turn the cap clockwise to lock it in place. IMPORTANT: Do not press down on the robot to insert the cap when the robot is under power standing on its legs! You can damage the leg motors by doing this. It is best to turn the robot off, and either support the bottom of the Base with one hand and press the Cap on with the other, or set the Base down on the table top or floor with legs out to the sides so they don't take pressure.
* '''STEP 16: Bounce Pads''' There is a foam pad with a peel-off self-sticking side. This goes on the bottom of the robot. It allows dance moves that slam the robot to the floor to be safe for the robot's parts.
<gallery mode=packed>
File:Robot-Foam-Installation.JPG|Peel off the paper and stick the foam on the bottom of the robot.
</gallery>
* '''STEP 17: Warning Label''' There are two a self-stick choking hazard warning labels in the hexapod parts bag. Peel the backing off one of them and place it on the bottom of the robot, near the center of the foam. Retain the second label for the gamepad.

== Building the Gamepad ==
[[File:Gamepad-Overall-Assembly-Exploded.png|thumb|600px|right|Gamepad order of parts during assembly (wires not shown for clarity).]]
To go beyond demo mode, you need to build the Vorpal Gamepad. The Vorpal Gamepad allows you to call up many different actions by the hexapod such as walking, turning, dancing, or fighting. The gamepad can also be used as a transmitter to allow Scratch programs to wirelessly control your robot from a computer.

=== Part 1: Gamepad Electrical System (Skip if using a QuickBuild kit) ===

If you DO NOT have a "QuickBuild" version of our kit, then you must first assemble the electrical components of the gamepad as follows. Please SKIP this entire section if you have a QuickBuild version of our kit, and proceed to Part 2.

* '''STEP 1: Attach cables to the button matrix.''' Pull 8 wires off the Dupont wire bundle. The colors don't really matter so just take 8 adjacent wires and leave them together if possible. Carefully push these 8 wires, in order, onto the pins coming out of the 4x4 button matrix. Make sure the wire connectors don't "swap places" by twisting under each other, it is very important that the order be correct.
[[File:Gamepad-Electronics-Layout.png|thumb|right|400 px|Layout of Electronic Boards. Left to right: Arduino Nano, HC05 Bluetooth Module, and SD Card reader. (wires are left out of diagram for clarity)]]

* '''STEP 2: Attach cables to the yellow D-PAD buttons.''' Pull three wires off the Dupont wire bundle of the following colors: red, black, white. Plug the white wire into the yellow D-PAD button module's pin marked OUT (output). The middle pin marked VCC gets the red wire, and the pin marked GND gets the black wire.

* '''STEP 3: Connect the electrical system wires.''' Using the connections indicated in the section below on electrical wiring, plug in all the wires for the Arduino Nano, HC05 Bluetooth module, SD Card Reader, and button modules.

=== Part 2: Inserting Gamepad Components into Plastic Base ===

* '''STEP 1: Install the switch.'''
** If you printed version V1R8c or later, or you received printed parts from us in or after April, 2018: Gamepad Base designs before April, 2018 required a switch adapter to be installed in a similar way to the hexapod robot Base, however that was eliminated in version V1R8c of the Gamepad. With the new design you just leave the switch hanging out of the switch hole on the back of the base until you screw on the top of the gamepad, then you press fit the switch into the resulting rectangular hole.
** If you printed gamepad Base versions earlier than V1r8c or you received printed parts from us before April, 2018: Take the switch/battery assembly and use two #6-32 screws 1/2" long to attach it on the inside wall of the gamepad base, in the rectangular hole. The switch itself is sandwiched between the gamepad wall and a switch adapter (the same switch adapter model used for the robot is used for the gamepad, you need to print two of them). DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN THE SCREWS.

* ''' STEP 2: Place the buttons''' Place the 4x4 button matrix and also the yellow D-PAD button module in the matching places on the button bracket. The yellow D-PAD buttons should be placed down first, and you may need to slightly bend the pins downward. The 4x4 button matrix also should have its pins slightly bent downward, then its wires will go on top of the wires coming out of the yellow D-PAD button module.
**NOTE: The yellow caps on the D-PAD buttons are optional. We normally remove these because we have found that in demo situations some people, especially young children, will press the yellow buttons so hard that they dislodge the caps. They will press right back on, it's not a problem really, however they may think they broke the controller. We feel it's better just to take them off.

* '''STEP 3: Insert the Arduino Nano.''' The Arduino Nano should be oriented such that its USB port is coming out the square hole on the left side of the base, and all the outgoing wires from the Nano are coming out toward the front of the base. Once in place, gently push the side of the Nano opposite of the USB port until it clicks into place, securing it.

* ''' STEP 4: Insert the HC05 Bluetooth Module.''' Slip the HC05 Bluetooth module under the U shaped bracket near the center of the gamepad base. Its lights should be facing upward, they will be visible through holes in the top of the gamepad and this helps you know that the gamepad is turned on.

* '''STEP 5: Put it all together.''' Put the 9v battery clip inside the battery box area of the base. Place the button bracket on top of the base, then place the gamepad top on the button bracket, sandwiching the button modules in place. Align the four screw holes in the corners with the matching holes on the base and secure with four #6-32 screws 1/2" long. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN. NOTE: You might want to just put two screws in, and don't even put them all the way in, until you test the gamepad. In that way, if it does not work, you can easily open it back up to check connections.

'''STEP 6: Detect D-PAD Style''' Turn the gamepad's switch to the OFF (0) position, then insert a charged 9v battery. Hold down the top button on the D-PAD module (the one above the grouping of four directional buttons). While still holding this button, turn the switch to the ON (1) position, you should see lights come on inside the gamepad. Count slowly to ten, then release the D-PAD button. This procedure causes the gamepad to detect what kind of D-PAD is being used so that it may interpret the button presses correctly. You only need to do this once (or after swapping in a new D-PAD module, for example after a repair). The setting is stored in nonvolatile EEPROM on the gamepad's Arduino Nano.

* '''STEP 7: Test!''' Turn the switch to "0" (off). Connect a 9v battery to the 9v battery clip then slide the battery door onto the base. Turn the switch to "1" (on). Lights should be visible through the holes. Turn the hexapod's dial all the way clockwise, to "RC" thus putting it in Bluetooth mode. Turn the hexapod on and wait a few seconds for it to completely boot. Try to control the robot! Try hitting each of the top three rows of 4x4 matrix buttons (W, F, D) one by one, and test to make sure every mode functions. If most modes work but a couple do not, you may have swapped some wires coming off the matrix.

* '''STEP 8: Decorate''' If desired, use a marker to darken the Vorpal "V" symbol, the W, F, D, R markings, the 0 and 1 switch markings, and the record/play symbols under the 4x4 button matrix. This will make them more visible as well as making the gamepad look nicer. We like using oil based paint markers. For dark colored plastics, use a white oil paint marker, for light colored plastics use black, blue, or red to contrast with the plastic color.

'''STEP 9: Warning Label''' There were two a self-stick choking hazard warning labels in the hexapod parts bag. You used one for the robot. Peel the backing off the other and place it on the bottom of the gamepad, being sure not to interfere with the battery drawer.

= Trimming the Servos =
When you assembled the servo horns onto the servos, you probably were not able to get them all to come out exactly at a 90 degree angle. That's not your fault: the servo horns only have 22 possible positions in which they can be installed, so at best you can come within plus or minus 8 degrees of perfection.

Now that you have the gamepad working, you can make fine adjustments to the servo positions using "Trim Mode". In this special gamepad mode, you can adjust all the servos. These adjustments are saved in the robot's EEPROM, which is memory on the Nano that retains data even when powered off. So, you only need to trim once.

Complete instructions on how to use trim mode are in the wiki page: [[Vorpal The Hexapod Trim Mode Guide]].

NOTE: although this step is optional, it is recommended because your robot will walk straighter and all the servos will share equally in lifting the robot's weight, which will make them last longer.

=Assembling Game Accessories and Nameplates=
Most of the accessory pieces require no assembly, or just require press fitting magnets into round holes or attaching self-stick velcro.

When inserting magnets, the rule is: anything that attaches to the robot via the accessory port screws should have the dimpled side of the magnet ''showing'', and anything that is supposed to attach to the robot or a screwed-on accessory should have the dimple side ''down, not showing''.

Based on this rule, the dimpled side of the magnet should '''not''' show for these items:
* Flag
* Joust Rider
* Name plate

And the dimple ''should'' be showing for these items:
* Capture the Flag Arm
* Joust Lance

==Assembling Sensors==
The light sensor and ultrasonic rangefinder sensor can be assembled with two screws each. The sensor module is sandwiched in between two plastic pieces. These screws are in the Deluxe Parts Bag. The screws will self-thread into the plastic. Do not overtighten or you will strip the plastic and the screws won't hold. When the screw head is all the way down, stop turning.

The ultrasonic rangefinder sensor attaches to the accessory port screws.

The light sensor wedges into one of the slotted holes in the cap.
==Electrical Connections: Robot (Bare Bones Kit/Reference)==

NOTE: If you have a QuickBuild version of our kit, this information is for reference only. All the connections are already made in QuickBuild kits. This information is primarily for Bare Bones kit builders, or self-source parts builders. It is also useful if you are an advanced user who may want to add new electrical components or modify the system.

===NOTES ON JUMPER WIRES===

This section is for self-source builders and Bare Bones Kit builders. Quickbuild kits are pre-wired and electrical systems are fully tested, so you can skip this section if you have a Quickbuild kit.

====Wire Lengths====
There are two different lengths of female-female Dupont jumper wires used to make most connections. The longer ones (20cm) are only used for the Hexapod's accessory port connections. The shorter ones are used for all the connections on the Gamepad and all the connections on the Hexapod between the Arduino Nano, Servo controller and Bluetooth module.

====Wire Color Conventions====

Please follow these conventions when selecting wire colors:
* For +5V, Vin, and similar positive voltage connections, use either RED or ORANGE.
* For GND and other negative electrical connections, use BLACK or BROWN.
* For the connectors that sit at the mouth of the accessory port (used for optional sensors) colors are suggested below in the instructions. By following these suggestions you will make your life easier when connecting sensors!
* For all other connections, you can use any color you want, it's arbitrary.

====If Jumper Wires Are Too Loose====
Sometimes you will find a wire whose connector does not grip the pin well enough. It might fall off very easily or just by gravity alone. If that happens, you have a few options:
* There are extra wires in your kit. If you find a wire that's too loose, just use a different wire.
* Using the hex key, you can put the jumper housing on a flat surface then press on the metal showing through the plastic connector, which will tighten up the jumper wire's grip. Don't go too overboard on pressing though or you might make it too hard to insert.
* Alternatively, you could use electrical tape after inserting all the wires on a module (such as the Nano) to effectively attach together all the little plastic female connector housings. In that way, the connectors that do grip will help hold in the ones that are too loose. Some people also like using hot glue for this purpose. (Personally, I don't like using hot glue, as it makes it harder to change connections if you hooked something up incorrectly.)

===NANO PIN CONNECTIONS (Bare Bones Kit/Reference)===
NOTE: If you are using our Quickbuild kit, this information is for reference only. Quickbuild kit wiring is already completed and tested.

[[File:Hexapod-Nano-Diagram.JPG|thumb|600px|right|Diagram of Nano connections for the Hexapod. Jumpers marked AP are routed to the Accessory Port for use with add-ons like sensors. Click for larger image.]]
* ''Digital IO Pins:''
** D0, D1 are reserved because they are used for uploading programs to the robot, so nothing will be connected there.
** D2 Bluetooth Module Rx
** D3 Bluetooth Module Tx
** D4 Buzzer Signal (white wire)
** D5, D6 NO CONNECTION. These pins are reserved for future expansion.
** D7 20cm GREEN Dupont connector routed to accessory port, used for Ultrasonic Rangefinder TRIG
** D8 20cm BLUE Dupont connector routed to accessory port, used for Ultrasonic Rangefinder ECHO
** D9 No connection. This pin is reserved for future expansion.
** D10 through D13 are reserved for the optional CMUCAM5 (Pixie) sensor accessory.

* ''Analog Pins:''
** A0 Potentiometer signal (white wire)
** A1 Potentiometer Power (red wire)
** A2 Potentiometer Ground (black wire)
** A3 20cm YELLOW Dupont connector routed to the accessory port, for the optional light sensor or other analog sensors.
** A4 Servo Controller SDA
** A5 Servo Controller SCL
** A6 20cm PURPLE Dupont connector, routed to the accessory port, for any analog sensor you wish to optionally add later.
** A7 No connection, reserved for future use.

* ''Power Pins:''
** VIN pin on Nano connects to Battery positive (the red Dupont connector coming off near the switch on the wiring module)
** GND pin on Nano connects to Battery negative (the black Dupont connector coming off the battery black wire)
** Second GND pin on Nano (there are two GND pins on the Nano) connects to the GND pin on the HC05 module
** +5V on Nano connects to HC05 +5V Pin

IMPORTANT NOTE: The red Dupont connector coming off the switch/battery assembly must go to VIN and never +5V, because the battery voltage is much higher than +5 volts. You will more or less instantly destroy your Nano if you put unregulated battery power directly into the +5V pin. The VIN pin has its own voltage regulator. The +5V pin on the Nano will be used to provide regulated power to the Bluetooth module.

=== Bluetooth Module Power (Bare Bones Kit/Reference)===
* +5V on HC05 connects to Nano +5V pin
* GND on HC05 connects to either of the two Nano GND pins

=== Buzzer Power (Bare Bones Kit/Reference)===
* Connect the buzzer V+ and ground (marked "-") pins (red and black respectively) to Port 13 of the Servo Controller, matching black and red wires to black and red pins on the Servo Controller. You will be using the special three wire cable provided for this purpose. It has a three-pin connector one one side, and the other side has a two-pin connector and a one-pin connector. The one-pin connector goes to the Nano and provides the signal to drive the buzzer. The two-pin connector is plugged into Servo Controller Port 13.

=== Servo Controller Connections (Bare Bones Kit/Reference)===
[[File:ServoController-Pin-Labels.JPG|thumb|600px|right|Diagram of Servo Controller pins you will use in this project. Each servo motor has a 3 wire connector. Match the brown servo wire with the black color coded pin in its servo port, match the yellow wire with the yellow pin. Click for larger image.]]
* Connect the 12 servos to port numbers corresponding to the servo marking (0 to 11). Make sure the signal wire (yellow) is oriented correctly and matches the yellow plastic header pin.
* Connect the switch/battery module regulated BEC output (a three pin Dupont connector where only two of the pins are populated, one with a red V+ wire, one with a black ground wire) to servo controller port 12 power and ground. Make sure the RED wire is going to VCC (red pin) and the BLACK wire goes to GND (black pin).
* On one short side of the Servo Controller you will find a VCC and V+ pin right next to each other. Use a shunt (small black connector that goes over two pins) to connect those together if one is not already installed. This shunt causes both the servos and the microprocessor to run at the same +5V level.
* SDA and SCL go to A4 and A5 on the Nano, respectively.
* Servo port 12 RED and BLACK pins are connected to the output of the BEC. Make sure the BEC RED wire matches with the RED pin, and the BEC BALCK wire matches with the BLACK pin.
* Servo port 13 RED and BLACK pins are connected to the passive buzzer power connector. Make sure the buzzer BLACK wire matches the BLACK pin, and the RED wire matches the RED pin.
* Servo port 14 RED pin goes to a 20cm ORANGE Dupont connector and is routed to the accessory port to provide +5V for sensors or other accessories.
* Servo port 14 BLACK pin goes to a 20cm BROWN Dupont connector and is routed to the accessory port to provide GND for sensors or other accessories.
* Servo port 15 RED terminal goes to a 20cm RED Dupont connector and is routed to the accessory port to provide +5V for sensors or other accessories.
* Servo port 15 BLACK terminal goes to 20cm BLACK Dupont connector and is routed to the accessory port to provide ground for sensors or other accessories.
* Servo port 15 signal terminal goes to 20cm WHITE Dupont connector and is routed to the accessory port to provide signal for a servo used in an optional accessory.

===Accessory Port Wire Bundle===
The 20cm wires connected to the Nano and Servo Controller provide access to digital ports, analog ports, and power for accessories such as sensors, lights, or other projects. These wires should be bundled up near their unconnected ends (a rubber band works well for keeping them all together) and routed to the large opening below the accessory port hex head screws on the chassis. When there is no accessory in use, these wires can remain tucked inside the accessory port. When needed, pull them out a few inches and connect to sensors or other electrical accessories.

=== Connecting the HC-SR04 Ultrasonic Rangefinder to the Accessory Port ===
When building the robot you routed longer jumper wires (20cm) to the accessory port. You need four of these wires to use the Ultrasonic Rangefinder:

* RED accessory port wire goes to HC-SR04 VCC
* BLACK accessory port wire goes to HC-SR04 GND
* GREEN accessor port wire goes to HC-SR04 TRIG
* BLUE accessory port wire goes to HC-SR04 ECHO

The Scratch block assumes you've used this setup.

=== Connecting the Light Sensor (or any Arduino compatible 5 volt analog sensor) ===
* RED or ORANGE accessory port wire goes to the center pin, which is usually unmarked (may also be marked +5V, Vcc or Vin) on the sensor
* BLACK or BROWN accessory port wire goes to the ground pin on the sensor, which is usually marked with a minus sign (-) or may be marked GND or G.
* YELLOW (A3) accessory port wire goes to the Signal pin on the sensor. This is often marked (S) but on some sensors may have other markings.
** You may also use PURPLE (A6) for a sensor (or a second sensor)
** The Scratch Sensor block allows you to choose A3 (YELLOW) or A6 (PURPLE) sensor ports.

=== A note on how many things can be connected through the accessory port===
We are providing two sets of power connectors at the accessory port for sensors or other accessories. RED/BLACK and ORANGE/BROWN each respectively provide +5V/GND. It's up to you what things you want to connect using these. You could have one or two sensors, you could have a sensor and some kind off motorized accessory (small motor only!). You could have a sensor and an LED light strip, etc.

Nothing is stopping you from creating a Y connector to make additional power connections, except that there is a limit of 3 amps of current that you can pull from the battery/BEC system. The robot itself needs up to 2.5 amps during fast motions. But many sensors can operate on just a few milliamps. Adding a motorized accessory is where you would need to be careful about how much current you're pulling from the system. If you pull too much current, typically the BEC will overheat and go into thermal protection mode, which will shut down all the motors until you reboot the robot. It is possible to use a mini servo or two under moderate load for a motorized accessory (for example our grip arm add-on kit), but a full sized servo under heavy load would likely be too much. Use caution when designing your own accessories, especially if they are going to use more than a few hundred milliamps of current.

=== Robot Screw Sizes ===
* Servo horn screws: 12 x M2.5 by 8mm long
* Switch assembly: 2 x #6-32 by 1/2" long

==Electrical Connectons: Gamepad (Bare Bones/Reference)==
NOTE: If you have a QuickBuild version of our kit, this information is for reference only. All the connections are already made in QuickBuild kits. This information is for Bare Bones kit builders, self-sourced parts, or if you are an advanced user who may want to add new electrical components or modify the system.

=== GAMEPAD NANO PIN CONNECTIONS (Bare Bones/Reference)===
[[File:Gamepad-Nano-Diagram-v3.JPG|thumb|600px|right|Diagram of Nano connections for the Gamepad. Click for larger image.]]
* D2 through D9 are connected to the button matrix pins.Looking from the top of the button matrix module, the rightmost button matrix pin (labeled 1) goes to D9, second to right (labeled 2) to D8, etc.
* D10 to SD card CS (may be labelled SS on some SD card readers)
* D11 to SD card MOSI
* D12 to SD card MISO
* D13 to SD card SCK (may be labelled SCL on some SD card readers)

* A0 Unused
* A1 Dpad OUT (white wire)
* A2 Dpad VCC (red wire)
* A3 Dpad GND (black wire)
* A4 HC05 Bluetooth Module Rx
* A5 HC05 Bluetooth Module Tx
* A6, A7 Unused

* VIN battery/switch positive (red wire)
* GND Either ground on the Nano goes to the battery/switch negative (black wire)
* ICSP pin 4 (see diagram): SD card reader GND. Note: Quickbuild kits do not use this, there's an extra GND wire soldered into the circuit for the SD card reader.
* ICSP pin 6 (see diagram): SD card reader VCC. Note: Quickbuild kits do not use this, there's an extra +5V wire soldered into the circuit for the SD card reader.
* Nano +5V pin goes to HC05 +5V pin
* Nano GND pin (there are two, you can use either one) goes to HCO5 GND pin

=== GAMEPAD: Screw Sizes ===

* Gamepad Cover, 4 x #6-32 by 1/2" long
* For kits prior to October 2019: switch adapter assembly, 2 x #6-32 by 1/2" long

{{Vorpal Quick Links}}

Vorpal The Hexapod Assembly Instructions

2022-04-08T12:41:20Z

Vorpalwiki: /* A note on how many things can be connected through the accessory port */

{{float_box|{{VCH Quick Links}} }}
==VIDEO BUILD INSTRUCTIONS==
Besides the printed instructions further down on this page, we have two great video build tutorials created by Teaching Tech, a great YouTube channel. Please consider subscribing to "Teaching Tech," as they have great 3d printing related videos.
The printed instructions are diagrams may still be helpful in conjunction with these videos.

===Fast Overview of Quick Build Kit Assembly===
This is an overview video showing the general build procedure in just a few minutes.
If the video does not play on your device (or you want full screen), go directly to YouTube with this link: [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SynKUki6sd8 Vorpal Quick Build Overview Video]
 
<youtube>SynKUki6sd8|Vorpal Quick Build Kit Overview Video</youtube>
 

===Gamepad Build Video Tutorial (Bare Bones Kit)===
This is a detailed build video for the Bare Bones version of the Gamepad. If you have a Quick Build kit, all of the wiring is already done so you can skip a lot of this video. It is useful for showing how to place the components in the plastic case, which is the same procedure for Quick Build.

IMPORTANT NOTE: The kit was simplified after this video was made, there is no longer any power switch retainer plastic part. The power switch simply snaps into the gamepad housing directly without any screws.

If the video does not play on your device (or you want full screen), go directly to YouTube with this link: [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9ePTrEtEFWI TEACHING TECH GAMEPAD BUILD VIDEO]
 
<youtube>9ePTrEtEFWI|Gamepad Build</youtube>
 

===Hexapod Build Video Tutorial (Bare Bones Kit)===
If the video below does not play on your device (or you want full screen), go directly to YouTube with this link: [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cf1dBCwsE0o&rel=0 TEACHING TECH ROBOT BUILD VIDEO]

IMPORTANT NOTE: This video was made using the "Bare Bones" kit which requires a lot more assembly than the current "Quick Build" kits. It may still be useful for reference, because many of the steps are the same, such as plugging the servo wires into the servo controller. But there is no longer any need to make individual wire connections to the nano, for example, so those parts of the video can be skipped if you have the Quick Build kit.
 
<youtube>cf1dBCwsE0o|Hexapod Build</youtube>
 

==BILL OF MATERIALS (BOM) FOR VORPAL H12 HEXAPOD==
===Notes on Sourcing Parts===
* Full kits of parts as well as individual parts are available on [http://vorpal-robotics-store.myshopify.com The Vorpal Robotics Store]. If you are new to Arduino, wiring, and robotics we strongly recommend you purchase a kit instead of trying to self-source parts. The kits cut 3 to 4 hours off the build time, bringing it to typically 1 to 1.5 hours for Quickbuild kits and 2 to 2.5 hours for Bare Bones kits. The kits have all soldering done, programs are already loaded on the Nanos, Bluetooth modules are properly configured to auto-pair on boot, and you know you have all the right parts to work together.
* These instructions assume you have purchased a kit from us. If you are sourcing your own parts, please be aware of the following additional information:
**If you are sourcing your own parts, you need to build the switch/battery connector assembly. For diagrams see [[Vorpal Combat Hexapod Battery/Switch Construction]].
**Also see important information on that page if you are sourcing your own BEC.
**If you are sourcing your own Bluetooth modules, please be aware that you will need to configure them to auto-pair and to have a UART speed of 38400 BAUD. Every module brand is a bit different so it's not possible for us to give you universal instructions on how to program them. We assume that if you source your own parts you are familiar with how to configure Bluetooth modules using AT-commands.
* IMPORTANT NOTE ON SELF-SOURCED HC05 MODULES: It has come to our attention that some vendors are now selling HC05 modules that have an issue that causes extremely long lag times on transmissions (1.5 to 2 full seconds) due to an unusual way of buffering output. This makes the robot unusable due to nonresponsiveness. Unfortunately there is no visible model number or other information that allows you to tell which ones will have this issue just by looking at the vendor's listing. Please be aware that the HC05 modules we sell are the correct ones that don't have this issue. We are working on software changes that might solve this problem by changing how we pad out our radio packets, however that is considered beta code at this point (it might affect scratch programs). We are actively looking for some way to distinguish the bad modules from the good ones but there are just too many variations of this chip to be sure. In addition, some of the bad modules also have an issue where they overheat. The overheating does not have to do with the 3.3v TR pin, it happens even if a voltage divider is used on TR. We believe that one is just a defect in the circuit board. The bottom line is, yeah, you're getting extra value when you buy parts from us: we stand behind them and we make sure they work with this project.

=== ROBOT BOM ===
[[File:Choking-Hazard-Image.jpg|right|350px]]

* ''Electronics:''
** Passive Piezo Buzzer module and 3 wire cable (see image) [[File:Passive-Piezo-Buzzer-Module.jpg|right|thumb|Passive Piezo Buzzer Module]]
** Arduino Nano, 5V, 16 mHz, ATMEGA328 or similar (marked R in our kit to indicate it is pre-loaded with robot software)
** Rotary potentiometer, 10K Ohms, 6mm shaft diameter, with 3 wires pre-soldered. Also, matching dial cap and nut.
** 1 x HC05 BlueTooth Module with 4 x F-F jumper wires for making connections (Note: the HC05 has six pins but only four are used in this project. Also, this is in the Gamepad Parts bag if you purchase our kit.)
** 1 x Servo Controller module (Adafruit 16-channel 12-bit I2C PWM/Servo driver or Adafruit clone) with F-F jumper wires for making connections, plus 1 two-pin shunt tying V+ to VCC
** 12 x MG90 micro servo motors and associated servo horns (you will only use the single-arm horn). NOTE: If your kit includes O-rings or washers, you will need to use those on the shaft of the hip servos only. These are needed for digital servos only. Many counterfeit servos claim to be digital but are really analog and don't need the washers. For more information see [[Tower Pro MG90S Vs. Clones]].
** 1 x Power distribution wiring with on/off switch, Battery holder for two 18650 cells, 3A 5V BEC, and female connectors to distribute power. If you are self-sourcing see our [[Vorpal The Hexapod Battery/Switch Construction|Circuit Diagrams]].
* ''3D Printed Parts:''
** 1 x Chassis
** 1 x Cap
** 6 x Legs (individually marked with servo numbers)
** 1 x Switch adapter
** 12 x Servo bracket U-shaped halves
** 1 x Electronics Caddy
** 1 x Stand
** 1 x Eye/glasses Decoration
** 1 x Joust game accessory with "rider"
** 1 x Capture the Flag game accessory with flag and cup.
** 1 x Fidget Spinner Challenge game accessory (no Fidget Spinner, just the stand)
** 1 x Ultrasonic Rangefinder Bracket
* ''Miscellaneous:''
** 9 x 10mm diameter pairs of hook and loop self-stick circular dots. These go on the hexapod cap (hook) and accessories like eyes and nameplates (loop).
** 7 x 10mm diameter by 3mm thick ceramic magnet, north pole marked. These are for Capture-the-Flag and Joust accessories. (Note: Not included in Bare Bones kit).
** 12 x socket head cap screw, 2.5mm diameter by 8mm long (for servo horns)
** 3 x #6-32 x 1/2" screw to fasten on/off switch adapter (2) and to hold electronics caddy on chassis (3)
** 2 x #6-32 x 3/4" screw for bottom two holes in accessory port.
** 2 x #6-32 x 1/2" screw for top two holes in the accessory port.
** 4 x #6-32 nuts to hold screws in accessory port.
** 2 x #6-32 wingnuts to attach accessories to accessory port.
** 1 x L shaped hex driver, 2mm, for both kinds of screw used in the kit.

=== GAMEPAD BOM ===
[[File:Choking-Hazard-Image.jpg|right|350px]]
* ''Electronics:''
** 1 x Battery/Switch Wiring Unit with 9v battery clip. (Note: the gamepad requires no BEC so you can use this fact to distinguish from the robot wiring unit)
** 1 x 4x4 button matrix with associated connecting wires. The matrix we use is marked YL-102 in the corner. See the picture. It's blue and has the keys number K1 through K16. You may be able to use others but the pin numbers may differ. [[File:4x4-Matrix.png|right|250px]]
** 1 x Dpad Button module with associated connecting wires. The one we use is marked Keyes_AD_Key and has yellow buttons and a red circuit board. See picture. [[File:Keyes-AD-Key.PNG|right|250px]]
** 1 x HC05 Bluetooth module and four wires to connect it
** 1 x microSD Card Reader module and six wires to connect it, and a microSD card that is compatible with the Arduino SD library. A microSD card is required for record/play features to work. The capacity should be 2 gb or less, either SD or SDHC format. The gamepad can be used to format the card for use by Arduino (hold down W4 while booting the gamepad, count to 10 slowly, release W4).
** 1 x Ardunio Nano, 5V, 16 mHz, ATMEGA328 or similar (marked "G" in our kit to indicate it is pre-loaded with Gamepad software). Note: For MAC users it is far easier to get Scratch to work if the gamepad Nano uses an FTDI serial chip instead of a CHG34X chip. Our kits use the more expensive FTDI version of the Nano in the Gamepad for this reason.
* ''3D Printed Plastic Parts:''
** 1 x Gamepad base plastic part
** 1 x Gamepad top plastic part
** 1 x Gamepad button carrier
** NOTE: Gamepad Base versions before April 2018 also required 1 x Switch Adapter
* ''Fasteners:''
** 4 x #6-32 x 1/2" screw to hold cover on gamepad (4) and also to hold switch adapter on base (2)
** NOTE: Gamepad Base versions before April 2018 also required 2 more of these screws to hold on the switch adapter.

=== Sensors ===
These are included in the Deluxe version of our kit. They're mainly useful for Scratch programming activities.
* 1 x HCSR04 Ultrasonic Rangefinder
* 1 x Analog Light sensor
* 1 x 30cm USB cord type A to mini

==3D Printing the Plastic Parts==

===Obtaining the STL Files===

You can find all the current STL files here: [http://tinyurl.com/VORPALFILES VORPAL FILES]. Go to the STL folder. The Vorpal Hexapod STLs are in the subfolder ROBOT and the gamepad parts are in GAMEPAD. There are subfolders with accessories (such as sensor housings and game pieces).

===Printing Notes and Tips===

This project has been finely tuned to make it easy to 3D print. No supports are required for any of the parts. In some cases you may want to use brims or rafts to help parts adhere to the print surface. There is minimal bridging, never farther than about 15mm (5/8"). Some of the parts do require some flexibility, for example the sides of the servo compartments need to bend outward while the servos are inserted, they then snap back into place when the servo is completely inserted. This means brittle plastics like PLA are not the best choice for this project. (Although we have made PLA hexapods and they do work if you're careful when inserting the servos).

This page assumes you have basic familiarity with 3D printing and 3D printing terminology. If not, you might want to reference online materials such as youtube videos or information from your 3D printer manufacturer before attempting this project.

If you are 3D printing the plastic parts (as opposed to buying them pre-printed), here are some tips.

* MINIMUM PRINTER REQUIREMENTS
** The bed size should be at least 150mm cube (5.9 inches cube). The largest part is the hexapod base so it is the limiting factor on bed size.
** A heated bed is strongly recommended, especially if you are printing in ABS.
* RECOMMENDED PLASTICS
** ABS and PETG both work well. When we sell Full Kits and Assembled Vorpals we use ABS.
** PLA is somewhat brittle, but it will work if you're careful. Inserting the servos into the legs and hips will somewhat flex the plastic so be careful during that process with PLA. Attaching the two halves of the leg hinges together can be more successful in PLA if you first soak the hinges in very hot tap water to soften up the plastic a bit.
* PRINT SETTINGS. We print using the following settings on a Lulzbot TAZ 6 or Lulzbot Mini with 0.5mm nozzle:
** 0.38 layer thickness (or whatever layer thickness is optimal for your printer)
** 1mm walls (i.e. two perimeters)
** 1.14mm top and bottom (i.e. three layers)
** 15% infill
** You can print with thinner layers if your printer does not support 0.38mm layers or if you want a more refined look, it will just take longer.
* BRIMS AND RAFTS
** Brims or rafts are recommended for the following hexapod parts: Base, Legs, Electronics Caddy, Cap. This ensures proper bed retention to avoid warping. These parts have relatively little contact area with the print bed, or have certain sections with little contact.
** Brims/rafts are not recommended on any of the other parts. The other parts generally have enough bed surface contact that they will print fine without brims. Your mileage may vary however and it is recommended that you keep a close eye on the first few layers of the print to make sure everything is sticking properly. If not, you can cancel the job with minimal loss of plastic then restart with brims or rafts.
** We personally prefer brims (such as available in Cura) as they are easy to remove and leave a clean look.
* POST PRINT
**Other than removing brims/rafts and the occasional drip, there is not any special post-processing required after printing.
**However, be very careful to inspect the hemispheres jutting out of one side of each of the servo holders, these need to be as low friction as possible. Inspect for drips and defects. If necessary, use a file or sand paper to smooth them out.

== Building the Robot ==

You will need the following tools:
* 2mm hex key. A 5/64 inch hex key will also work. This is in the Hexapod Parts bag. (NOTE: Some very early kits put this in the Deluxe Parts Bag).
* A marker that can write on dark plastic and still be seen, such as Sharpie Metallic or Sharpie Oil markers (white and yellow work great).
** This is the easiest way to mark servo wires with their corresponding leg number
** If you don't have these types of marker, you could use clear tape and bits of paper to tape wire labels near the socket end of the servo cable. Don't put labels right on the black plastic connectors at the end of the servo because you'll make them too thick to fit side by side when plugged in.
===Servo Pre Check===
Sometimes the servo motor gearbox will get locked up when sitting for a long time, for example during shipping, especially in cold weather. The following procedure will ensure they work properly. (Note: Some MG90S servo bags distributed in the past with our kits say not to turn the servo horn, these instructions supercede that note on the bag).

* Put a one-arm servo horn on each servo. You don't need a screw, just put it on in any random position for now.
* ''Slowly'' and ''gently'' rock the servo horn by hand so it turns. Do not use a lot of force. Note that there is a physical stop that only allows it to turn 180 degrees. If you push in one direction and it won't move, rock it in the other direction.
* As soon as it moves, even just 10 or 20 degrees in either direction, you've confirmed the servo is not locked. Do not leave it at an extreme position where it stops, leave it somewhere around the middle.
If any servo fails to move with modest pressure and a gentle rocking motion, put a mark on that servo, near where the wire comes out. It will most likely unfreeze when power is applied, but you need to keep an eye on it for now.

===Step by Step Instructions===

*'''STEP 1: Insert accessory port screws in the chassis''' Insert 5/8" #6-32 hex head screws in the bottom two holes of the accessory port, head of the screw inside the hexapod, then tighten nuts outside. Repeat for the top two accessory holes with shorter 1/2" #6-32 hex head screws. The heads of the screws recess into hexogonal holes so you don't need to use pliers inside the robot body, just for the nuts. Two wingnuts go on the two lower screws, these will be used to secure accessories such as the Joust lance or Capture-the-Flag attachment.
<gallery mode=packed>
File:Hexhead-Screw.JPG|Be sure to use the hex head screws for the accessory port.
File:Accessory-Port-Diagram-V2.JPG|The accessory port is considered the "front" of the robot.
File:Accessory-Port-Screws.JPG|Longer hex head screws go on the bottom. Do not overtighten the nuts.
File:Wing-Nuts-Installed.JPG|After installing the nuts, put the wingnuts on the bottom screws. They'll be used later to secure accessories.
</gallery>
*'''STEP 2: Insert servos in the chassis.'''
** Next, insert the servo into the chassis as shown in the diagrams below. As you insert the servo into the chassis, slowly press it straight into place until it clicks in under the small tab on one side of the servo holder. Make sure it stays straight as you push down.
** Immediately mark the black connector at the end of the wire to indicate the servo number (which is engraved in the top of the servo holder, a number between 0 and 5).
*** A metallic sharpie pen works very well for this, or a light colored oil paint sharpie such as white.
*** If you don't have any of those things, a little piece of masking tape can be affixed to the wire and marked, or you could use clear cellophane tape to attach little bits of marked paper to the wire. Do not attach any tape or paper to the black connector, as it will be a tight fit when connecting later.
*** The wire coming out of the servo sticks out away from the robot, the servo shaft would face down toward the table top if the chassis were resting on the table.
** After inserting the servo, thread the wire through the top servo wire guide hole, and into the center of the chassis.
[[File:ServoChassisInsert.png|400px|Insert Servo in Chassis]]
[[File:spacerimage.png|100px|Insert Servo in Chassis]]
[[File:ServoHipInserted.png|140px|Insert Servo in Chassis]]
* '''STEP 3: Insert the servos in the Legs.''' The technique is very similar to inserting the servo into the chassis.
**Insert the servo straight into the leg socket so that the wire is coming out of the servo facing away from the plastic leg and the face of the servo with the shaft and servo horn goes into the open faced side of the leg, as shown in the diagram.
**The servos in the legs are called the "knee" servos. Each leg has a higher number on it, this is the knee number, they run from 6 to 11. Again, write this number on the black connector at the end of the servo wire. PRO TIP: For 6 and 9, underline the number so you don't read them upside down!
[[File:Servo-Insert-Leg-v2.png|350px|Insert Servo in Legs]]
[[File:spacerimage.png|100px|Insert Servo in Chassis]]
[[File:Servo-Leg-Inserted-v2.png|350px|Insert Servo in Legs]]
* '''STEP 4: Thread each leg servo wire''' into the bottom wire guide slot on the chassis. Each leg servo should be matched with a hip servo plus 6. The legs are marked with the hip number near the top and the knee number below that. For example, the leg marked 6 should be threaded through the wire guide on hip servo 0, leg 7 goes with hip 1, leg 8 goes with hip 2, etc. Add 6 to the hip number to get the leg number.
* '''STEP 5: Build the electrical system.''' You need to power up the servos and make them seek to the 90 degree position, this will allow you to adjust the legs properly for walking.
** STEP 5A: Take the potentiometer and remove the cap, then unscrew the nut and set these items aside for now. Push the potentiometer shaft from the inside of the chassis, into the hole that has the markings "STOP", "TST", etc. The wires coming out of the potentiometer should be pointing down and you may need to bend them a bit to make it all fit. Put the retaining nut on the potentiometer, hand tighten first and then give it just another half turn or so with pliers if desired. Turn the knob all the way counter clockwise, then insert the knob so it points to the letter "O" in the word "STOP".
** STEP 5B: Find the on/off switch (which is attached to the battery holder assembly). There was a change to how this was installed in October, 2019. The older version requires a "switch adapter," while the new version just uses a slot to feed in the wires. The two sets of diagrams below illustrate both the old and the new way of installing the switch.
New Version Switch Installation:
<gallery mode=packed heights=200>
File:NewSwitchInstall-Step1.jpg|Thread the switch and its wires through the Base, there is an opening under the switch hole.
File:NewSwitchInstall-Step2.jpg|Bring the wires up through the slot below the switch hole.
File:NewSwitchInstall-Step3.jpg|Press the switch into the hole, it should snap into place. The "1" should be on top.
</gallery>
Old Version Switch Installation (before about mid October 2019):
<gallery mode=packed>
File:Assembly-Switch-Bracket-Insertion.JPG|Thread the wires through the gap in the adapter
File:Assembly-Switch-Bracket-Done.JPG|Press the switch into the adapter.
File:Assembly-Switch-Bracket-Insertion-into-Base.JPG|From the inside of the robot, line up the switch/adapter with the switch hole.
File:Assembly-Switch-Bracket-in-Base.JPG|While holding the switch/adapter in place, insert screws from the outside of the robot.
</gallery>
** STEP 5C: If you do not have a "QuickBuild" version of the kit, then make all the connections listed in the ELECTRICAL CONNECTIONS section of these instructions below. Be extremely careful about the power connections. Double check all connections before powering on. If you do have a QuickBuild kit, all the connections are already made for you.
[[File:Servo-Horn-Orientation.png|thumb|right|The servo horn should come straight out from the body at a 90 degree angle as shown here. Do not turn the servo shaft by hand until after it has moved under power!]]
* '''STEP 6: Power up!''' Make sure the on/off switch is off, and the knob is turned to STOP. Insert batteries and power on the robot using the on/off switch. You should hear a beep, a pause, then a second beep. The servos should all twitch into position. If the robot does not move at all, immediately turn the switch off and check your connections again. If some of the servos don't move (especially any you marked during the servo pre-check) then gently push them with power off to see if you can free them up. If they still won't move, try pushing them with power applied, but turn off the power within 30 seconds if they're locked up. If you can't get the servo to move it will need to be replaced.
* '''STEP 7: Insert Servo Horns.''' The servo horns are all at random angles right now due to the servo pre-check. In this step we'll make them point in the right direction. The knee servos are not at 90 degrees when the knob is all the way counter clockwise, rather they are at a 30 degree standing angle. We need to get them to 90 degrees so its easy to align the servo horn. Turn the knob very slightly clockwise and you will see all the knee servos twitch. This is "adjust servo horn mode". All servos (knees and hips) are now at their halfway point, 90 degrees. Now you need to take each single arm servo horn and carefully insert it on the shaft so that it is sticking straight out as shown in the figure. You will not always be able to make the horn come totally straight out. This is because there are only 22 little groves (splines) in each shaft, meaning you can in general only come within about 8 degrees of being at a perfect 90 degree angle. This amount of error is acceptable, just get it as close as you can. It is better for the horn to be a little too much clockwise than to be a little too much counterclockwise, especially for the knees. Do this for all hip and knee servos. Do not insert any screws yet.
[[File:Servo-Bracket-Alignment-v1.png|thumb|350px|right|Align the leg hinges as shown here. The bumps (see arrows) should both be near each other when properly aligned. Hold one in each hand with the ends of the U shape between thumb and forefinger.]]
* '''STEP 8: Assemble the leg hinges'''. Each leg hinge is composed of two identical U-shaped parts. Take one in each hand and align the two so that the bump (shown in the diagram at the right) are both near each other. Turn one 90 degrees with respect to the other.
**Gently squeeze each piece between thumb and forefinger, which causes the little jaws in the center to open up slightly. Work the two halves together. Squeeze just enough so they work their way on, no more or you might break the part!.
**At this stage, you may notice that the parts are loosely clamped on each other. Don't worry! When you place the leg hinges over a servo, the servo will spread it apart and they will lock together tightly.
* '''STEP 9: Attach Leg Hinges.''' The leg hinges connect the hips to the knees. They only go on one way. First place the end that matches the servo horn on, then you need to very slightly bend the U shaped piece while pulling it over the hemispherical bearing on the other side. It's a little easier to do the knees (servos mounted to legs) first, followed by the hips (servos on base).
**NOTE: It should not be excessively difficult to push the hinge over the hemispherical bearing. If you find you are struggling, that means the hinges are too tight. This may affect walking. This can be due to the kind of plastic you used or how your printer is adjusted. You may need to gently spread the two legs of the U shape by hand before putting the hinge on the robot. Be careful of course not to break the hinge.
* '''STEP 10: Test Knee Positions.''' Turn the knob fully counter clockwise (to STOP) and the robot will go into "stand still" mode. Place it on a level surface such as a table top. Do all of the legs touch the ground? If one or more legs don't touch the ground, you need to adjust the servo horn on the knee a little bit so it does touch. Gently pull off the servo bracket. Pull the servo horn off, and put it back on just a little bit moved so the leg would move closer to the ground. Put the servo bracket back on, and see how it looks. Do this until all legs are at least slightly touching the ground. Again, you can't necessarily be perfect due to the 8 degree increments the servo horns can be moved. But you should be able to be close enough that all legs at least slightly touch the ground.
* '''STEP 11: Insert Servo Screws.''' Now that the legs are adjusted, you can insert the M2.5x8 screws into the servo horns to lock them in place. Note that you will NOT be using the screws that were in the little bag the servos came in, you'll be using the separate pack of screws, which are longer than the ones in the servo bag. Do not overtighten these screws, as you could possibly crack the servo brackets. Just turn the screws until you start to feel resistance, then turn a quarter turn more and stop.
* '''STEP 12: Test Individual Servos.''' To test whether every servo is working, put the robot on its stand. Then start with the knob on STOP, then slowly turn it clockwise. First the servos will go into adjust mode, you used that a moment ago to set the servo horns. But, keep going, and the robot will go into "individual servo test mode". In this mode, every hip servo will move, one by one. When all the hips have moved, every leg will move, one by one. You should see every servo move, in order. If some don't move, check your connections. A common error is to plug a servo connector into the servo controller backwards (i.e. the brown wire is matched with the yellow pin instead of the black pin).
{| class="wikitable" align=right style="float:right; background:transparent; margin: {{{margins|1em 1em 1em 1em}}}; {{{style|}}}"
|-
| <youtube>5T7E1IqHxNc|Electronics Caddy Tutorial</youtube>
|}
* '''STEP 13: Test Using Demo Mode.''' Ok, everything looks good, so time for a full test. Turn the knob to STOP, then take the robot off the stand and put it on the floor. Turn the knob to DEMO, and the robot will go through a series of movements to demonstrate some of the things it can do. The full demo only takes about 30 seconds, then repeats. Here, you are looking for the robot to, for example, be able to get back up off the floor after doing some of its dance moves. If the robot struggles to get off the floor, you may have a battery that is not fully charged, or there may be too much friction between the servo bracket and the little ball socket it sits in. A tiny bit of silicone lubricant will usually fix that problem, or just make sure those parts are cleaned up from 3D printing and don't have an excess strands of material that are causing friction. See the [[Vorpal Combat_Hexapod Troubleshooting Guide|Trouble Shooting Guide]] for more information about different kinds of issues that can occur.
* '''STEP 14: Store the Electronics in the Caddy''' Now things look pretty messy with all those wires hanging loose, let's clean it up by stowing them in the electronics caddy. Please reference the video and diagrams here for quick instructions.
** '''STEP 14A: Insert Caddy Bars''' Insert the two electronics caddy bars as shown in the diagrams below. Notice carefully how they are inserted. You may need to slightly squeeze the forked section at the end to work it into the hole. Once inside, it may be difficult to remove because it will snap into place, so be sure you're putting it in the right way.
<gallery mode=packed>
File:Electronics-Caddy-Insert-Bar.JPG|Here one bar has already been inserted, the other is being put into place. Notice the orientation, don't put it in upside down. The little nubs at the end should be facing the caddy.
</gallery>
** '''STEP 14B: Insert the Servo Controller and Arduino Nano''' The diagrams here do not show the wires to make them easier to visualize. Carefully insert the servo controller as shown, making sure you don't pull out any of the wires. You may need to wiggle the electronics caddy bar from side to side a bit so that components can slide past it during insertion. Notice that the end of the Servo controller with wires sticking out of it must go in last. Carefully insert the Arduino Nano as shown, making sure you don't pull out any of the wires. You may need to wiggle the electronics caddy bar from side to side a bit so that components can slide past it during insertion. Notice that the end of the Nano that has the USB port must go in last.
<gallery mode=packed>
File:Electronics-Caddy-Insert-ServoController.JPG|Insert the servo controller so it is sandwiched between the bar and the electronics caddy. Wires not shown for clarity.
File:Electronics-Caddy-Insert-Nano.JPG|Insert the Nano so that the USB port faces out away from the electronics caddy, this allows you to access it without disassembling the robot.
File:Electronics-Caddy-Assembled-Underside.JPG|This is what the underside of the electronics caddy looks like after inserting the Servo Controller and Arduino Nano. Wires not shown for clarity.
</gallery>
** '''STEP 14C: Insert the HC05 Bluetooth Module''' The diagrams here do not show the wires to make them easier to visualize. The HC05 Bluetooth module with a name beginning with "S" should be used for the robot. For example, the label will read something like "VORP S2944" (the number will differ). The one marked "M" will be used for the gamepad. Slide the HC05 into the side drawer as shown. When inserting, be careful not to pull out the wires, which will be a little tight. Work the wires into the little space provided so they stay clear of the robot's cap when it gets screwed on later.
<gallery mode=packed>
File:Electronics-Caddy-Insert-HC05.JPG|Insert the HC05 into the side drawer as shown.
File:Electronics-Caddy-Assembled-HC05.JPG|When fully inserted, the indicator light will still be visible through the small oval. The wires should be tucked into the little cavity near the pins of the HC05.
</gallery>
* '''STEP 15: Assemble the Cap'''
** '''STEP 15A: Put hook-and-loop dots in the Cap''' Insert a "hook" circular self-stick dot in each of the 10mm circular holder areas in the cap. Do not use the fuzzy "loop" side of the hook-and-loop pair, use the "hook" side of the pair. Press firmly so the glue backing sticks firmly to the plastic. NOTE: Older versions of this project used magnets on the cap and eye decorations. If you are assembling an older version, press the magnet into the cap firmly (you may need to use pliers) and make sure the marked face (north pole) is showing. On accessories like eyes, make sure the unmarked face (south pole) is showing.
** '''STEP 15B: Decorate''' If desired, use a permanent marker to color the Vorpal "V" on top of the Cap. Oil markers work well. On light colors of plastic a black permanent marker will also work.
** '''STEP 15C: Put Cap on the Hexapod''' Screw the cap on the robot by lining up the tabs with the matching slots in the rim of the base. Turn the cap clockwise to lock it in place. IMPORTANT: Do not press down on the robot to insert the cap when the robot is under power standing on its legs! You can damage the leg motors by doing this. It is best to turn the robot off, and either support the bottom of the Base with one hand and press the Cap on with the other, or set the Base down on the table top or floor with legs out to the sides so they don't take pressure.
* '''STEP 16: Bounce Pads''' There is a foam pad with a peel-off self-sticking side. This goes on the bottom of the robot. It allows dance moves that slam the robot to the floor to be safe for the robot's parts.
<gallery mode=packed>
File:Robot-Foam-Installation.JPG|Peel off the paper and stick the foam on the bottom of the robot.
</gallery>
* '''STEP 17: Warning Label''' There are two a self-stick choking hazard warning labels in the hexapod parts bag. Peel the backing off one of them and place it on the bottom of the robot, near the center of the foam. Retain the second label for the gamepad.

== Building the Gamepad ==
[[File:Gamepad-Overall-Assembly-Exploded.png|thumb|600px|right|Gamepad order of parts during assembly (wires not shown for clarity).]]
To go beyond demo mode, you need to build the Vorpal Gamepad. The Vorpal Gamepad allows you to call up many different actions by the hexapod such as walking, turning, dancing, or fighting. The gamepad can also be used as a transmitter to allow Scratch programs to wirelessly control your robot from a computer.

=== Part 1: Gamepad Electrical System (Skip if using a QuickBuild kit) ===

If you DO NOT have a "QuickBuild" version of our kit, then you must first assemble the electrical components of the gamepad as follows. Please SKIP this entire section if you have a QuickBuild version of our kit, and proceed to Part 2.

* '''STEP 1: Attach cables to the button matrix.''' Pull 8 wires off the Dupont wire bundle. The colors don't really matter so just take 8 adjacent wires and leave them together if possible. Carefully push these 8 wires, in order, onto the pins coming out of the 4x4 button matrix. Make sure the wire connectors don't "swap places" by twisting under each other, it is very important that the order be correct.
[[File:Gamepad-Electronics-Layout.png|thumb|right|400 px|Layout of Electronic Boards. Left to right: Arduino Nano, HC05 Bluetooth Module, and SD Card reader. (wires are left out of diagram for clarity)]]

* '''STEP 2: Attach cables to the yellow D-PAD buttons.''' Pull three wires off the Dupont wire bundle of the following colors: red, black, white. Plug the white wire into the yellow D-PAD button module's pin marked OUT (output). The middle pin marked VCC gets the red wire, and the pin marked GND gets the black wire.

* '''STEP 3: Connect the electrical system wires.''' Using the connections indicated in the section below on electrical wiring, plug in all the wires for the Arduino Nano, HC05 Bluetooth module, SD Card Reader, and button modules.

=== Part 2: Inserting Gamepad Components into Plastic Base ===

* '''STEP 1: Install the switch.'''
** If you printed version V1R8c or later, or you received printed parts from us in or after April, 2018: Gamepad Base designs before April, 2018 required a switch adapter to be installed in a similar way to the hexapod robot Base, however that was eliminated in version V1R8c of the Gamepad. With the new design you just leave the switch hanging out of the switch hole on the back of the base until you screw on the top of the gamepad, then you press fit the switch into the resulting rectangular hole.
** If you printed gamepad Base versions earlier than V1r8c or you received printed parts from us before April, 2018: Take the switch/battery assembly and use two #6-32 screws 1/2" long to attach it on the inside wall of the gamepad base, in the rectangular hole. The switch itself is sandwiched between the gamepad wall and a switch adapter (the same switch adapter model used for the robot is used for the gamepad, you need to print two of them). DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN THE SCREWS.

* ''' STEP 2: Place the buttons''' Place the 4x4 button matrix and also the yellow D-PAD button module in the matching places on the button bracket. The yellow D-PAD buttons should be placed down first, and you may need to slightly bend the pins downward. The 4x4 button matrix also should have its pins slightly bent downward, then its wires will go on top of the wires coming out of the yellow D-PAD button module.
**NOTE: The yellow caps on the D-PAD buttons are optional. We normally remove these because we have found that in demo situations some people, especially young children, will press the yellow buttons so hard that they dislodge the caps. They will press right back on, it's not a problem really, however they may think they broke the controller. We feel it's better just to take them off.

* '''STEP 3: Insert the Arduino Nano.''' The Arduino Nano should be oriented such that its USB port is coming out the square hole on the left side of the base, and all the outgoing wires from the Nano are coming out toward the front of the base. Once in place, gently push the side of the Nano opposite of the USB port until it clicks into place, securing it.

* ''' STEP 4: Insert the HC05 Bluetooth Module.''' Slip the HC05 Bluetooth module under the U shaped bracket near the center of the gamepad base. Its lights should be facing upward, they will be visible through holes in the top of the gamepad and this helps you know that the gamepad is turned on.

* '''STEP 5: Put it all together.''' Put the 9v battery clip inside the battery box area of the base. Place the button bracket on top of the base, then place the gamepad top on the button bracket, sandwiching the button modules in place. Align the four screw holes in the corners with the matching holes on the base and secure with four #6-32 screws 1/2" long. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN. NOTE: You might want to just put two screws in, and don't even put them all the way in, until you test the gamepad. In that way, if it does not work, you can easily open it back up to check connections.

'''STEP 6: Detect D-PAD Style''' Turn the gamepad's switch to the OFF (0) position, then insert a charged 9v battery. Hold down the top button on the D-PAD module (the one above the grouping of four directional buttons). While still holding this button, turn the switch to the ON (1) position, you should see lights come on inside the gamepad. Count slowly to ten, then release the D-PAD button. This procedure causes the gamepad to detect what kind of D-PAD is being used so that it may interpret the button presses correctly. You only need to do this once (or after swapping in a new D-PAD module, for example after a repair). The setting is stored in nonvolatile EEPROM on the gamepad's Arduino Nano.

* '''STEP 7: Test!''' Turn the switch to "0" (off). Connect a 9v battery to the 9v battery clip then slide the battery door onto the base. Turn the switch to "1" (on). Lights should be visible through the holes. Turn the hexapod's dial all the way clockwise, to "RC" thus putting it in Bluetooth mode. Turn the hexapod on and wait a few seconds for it to completely boot. Try to control the robot! Try hitting each of the top three rows of 4x4 matrix buttons (W, F, D) one by one, and test to make sure every mode functions. If most modes work but a couple do not, you may have swapped some wires coming off the matrix.

* '''STEP 8: Decorate''' If desired, use a marker to darken the Vorpal "V" symbol, the W, F, D, R markings, the 0 and 1 switch markings, and the record/play symbols under the 4x4 button matrix. This will make them more visible as well as making the gamepad look nicer. We like using oil based paint markers. For dark colored plastics, use a white oil paint marker, for light colored plastics use black, blue, or red to contrast with the plastic color.

'''STEP 9: Warning Label''' There were two a self-stick choking hazard warning labels in the hexapod parts bag. You used one for the robot. Peel the backing off the other and place it on the bottom of the gamepad, being sure not to interfere with the battery drawer.

= Trimming the Servos =
When you assembled the servo horns onto the servos, you probably were not able to get them all to come out exactly at a 90 degree angle. That's not your fault: the servo horns only have 22 possible positions in which they can be installed, so at best you can come within plus or minus 8 degrees of perfection.

Now that you have the gamepad working, you can make fine adjustments to the servo positions using "Trim Mode". In this special gamepad mode, you can adjust all the servos. These adjustments are saved in the robot's EEPROM, which is memory on the Nano that retains data even when powered off. So, you only need to trim once.

Complete instructions on how to use trim mode are in the wiki page: [[Vorpal The Hexapod Trim Mode Guide]].

NOTE: although this step is optional, it is recommended because your robot will walk straighter and all the servos will share equally in lifting the robot's weight, which will make them last longer.

=Assembling Game Accessories and Nameplates=
Most of the accessory pieces require no assembly, or just require press fitting magnets into round holes or attaching self-stick velcro.

When inserting magnets, the rule is: anything that attaches to the robot via the accessory port screws should have the dimpled side of the magnet ''showing'', and anything that is supposed to attach to the robot or a screwed-on accessory should have the dimple side ''down, not showing''.

Based on this rule, the dimpled side of the magnet should '''not''' show for these items:
* Flag
* Joust Rider
* Name plate

And the dimple ''should'' be showing for these items:
* Capture the Flag Arm
* Joust Lance

==Assembling Sensors==
The light sensor and ultrasonic rangefinder sensor can be assembled with two screws each. The sensor module is sandwiched in between two plastic pieces. These screws are in the Deluxe Parts Bag. The screws will self-thread into the plastic. Do not overtighten or you will strip the plastic and the screws won't hold. When the screw head is all the way down, stop turning.

The ultrasonic rangefinder sensor attaches to the accessory port screws.

The light sensor wedges into one of the slotted holes in the cap.
==Electrical Connections: Robot (Bare Bones Kit/Reference)==

NOTE: If you have a QuickBuild version of our kit, this information is for reference only. All the connections are already made in QuickBuild kits. This information is primarily for Bare Bones kit builders, or self-source parts builders. It is also useful if you are an advanced user who may want to add new electrical components or modify the system.

===NOTES ON JUMPER WIRES===

This section is for self-source builders and Bare Bones Kit builders. Quickbuild kits are pre-wired and electrical systems are fully tested, so you can skip this section if you have a Quickbuild kit.

====Wire Lengths====
There are two different lengths of female-female Dupont jumper wires used to make most connections. The longer ones (20cm) are only used for the Hexapod's accessory port connections. The shorter ones are used for all the connections on the Gamepad and all the connections on the Hexapod between the Arduino Nano, Servo controller and Bluetooth module.

====Wire Color Conventions====

Please follow these conventions when selecting wire colors:
* For +5V, Vin, and similar positive voltage connections, use either RED or ORANGE.
* For GND and other negative electrical connections, use BLACK or BROWN.
* For the connectors that sit at the mouth of the accessory port (used for optional sensors) colors are suggested below in the instructions. By following these suggestions you will make your life easier when connecting sensors!
* For all other connections, you can use any color you want, it's arbitrary.

====If Jumper Wires Are Too Loose====
Sometimes you will find a wire whose connector does not grip the pin well enough. It might fall off very easily or just by gravity alone. If that happens, you have a few options:
* There are extra wires in your kit. If you find a wire that's too loose, just use a different wire.
* Using the hex key, you can put the jumper housing on a flat surface then press on the metal showing through the plastic connector, which will tighten up the jumper wire's grip. Don't go too overboard on pressing though or you might make it too hard to insert.
* Alternatively, you could use electrical tape after inserting all the wires on a module (such as the Nano) to effectively attach together all the little plastic female connector housings. In that way, the connectors that do grip will help hold in the ones that are too loose. Some people also like using hot glue for this purpose. (Personally, I don't like using hot glue, as it makes it harder to change connections if you hooked something up incorrectly.)

===NANO PIN CONNECTIONS (Bare Bones Kit/Reference)===
NOTE: If you are using our Quickbuild kit, this information is for reference only. Quickbuild kit wiring is already completed and tested.

[[File:Hexapod-Nano-Diagram.JPG|thumb|600px|right|Diagram of Nano connections for the Hexapod. Jumpers marked AP are routed to the Accessory Port for use with add-ons like sensors. Click for larger image.]]
* ''Digital IO Pins:''
** D0, D1 are reserved because they are used for uploading programs to the robot, so nothing will be connected there.
** D2 Bluetooth Module Rx
** D3 Bluetooth Module Tx
** D4 Buzzer Signal (white wire)
** D5, D6 NO CONNECTION. These pins are reserved for future expansion.
** D7 20cm GREEN Dupont connector routed to accessory port, used for Ultrasonic Rangefinder TRIG
** D8 20cm BLUE Dupont connector routed to accessory port, used for Ultrasonic Rangefinder ECHO
** D9 No connection. This pin is reserved for future expansion.
** D10 through D13 are reserved for the optional CMUCAM5 (Pixie) sensor accessory.

* ''Analog Pins:''
** A0 Potentiometer signal (white wire)
** A1 Potentiometer Power (red wire)
** A2 Potentiometer Ground (black wire)
** A3 20cm YELLOW Dupont connector routed to the accessory port, for the optional light sensor or other analog sensors.
** A4 Servo Controller SDA
** A5 Servo Controller SCL
** A6 20cm PURPLE Dupont connector, routed to the accessory port, for any analog sensor you wish to optionally add later.
** A7 No connection, reserved for future use.

* ''Power Pins:''
** VIN pin on Nano connects to Battery positive (the red Dupont connector coming off near the switch on the wiring module)
** GND pin on Nano connects to Battery negative (the black Dupont connector coming off the battery black wire)
** Second GND pin on Nano (there are two GND pins on the Nano) connects to the GND pin on the HC05 module
** +5V on Nano connects to HC05 +5V Pin

IMPORTANT NOTE: The red Dupont connector coming off the switch/battery assembly must go to VIN and never +5V, because the battery voltage is much higher than +5 volts. You will more or less instantly destroy your Nano if you put unregulated battery power directly into the +5V pin. The VIN pin has its own voltage regulator. The +5V pin on the Nano will be used to provide regulated power to the Bluetooth module.

=== Bluetooth Module Power (Bare Bones Kit/Reference)===
* +5V on HC05 connects to Nano +5V pin
* GND on HC05 connects to either of the two Nano GND pins

=== Buzzer Power (Bare Bones Kit/Reference)===
* Connect the buzzer V+ and ground (marked "-") pins (red and black respectively) to Port 13 of the Servo Controller, matching black and red wires to black and red pins on the Servo Controller. You will be using the special three wire cable provided for this purpose. It has a three-pin connector one one side, and the other side has a two-pin connector and a one-pin connector. The one-pin connector goes to the Nano and provides the signal to drive the buzzer. The two-pin connector is plugged into Servo Controller Port 13.

=== Servo Controller Connections (Bare Bones Kit/Reference)===
[[File:ServoController-Pin-Labels.JPG|thumb|600px|right|Diagram of Servo Controller pins you will use in this project. Each servo motor has a 3 wire connector. Match the brown servo wire with the black color coded pin in its servo port, match the yellow wire with the yellow pin. Click for larger image.]]
* Connect the 12 servos to port numbers corresponding to the servo marking (0 to 11). Make sure the signal wire (yellow) is oriented correctly and matches the yellow plastic header pin.
* Connect the switch/battery module regulated BEC output (a three pin Dupont connector where only two of the pins are populated, one with a red V+ wire, one with a black ground wire) to servo controller port 12 power and ground. Make sure the RED wire is going to VCC (red pin) and the BLACK wire goes to GND (black pin).
* On one short side of the Servo Controller you will find a VCC and V+ pin right next to each other. Use a shunt (small black connector that goes over two pins) to connect those together if one is not already installed. This shunt causes both the servos and the microprocessor to run at the same +5V level.
* SDA and SCL go to A4 and A5 on the Nano, respectively.
* Servo port 12 RED and BLACK pins are connected to the output of the BEC. Make sure the BEC RED wire matches with the RED pin, and the BEC BALCK wire matches with the BLACK pin.
* Servo port 13 RED and BLACK pins are connected to the passive buzzer power connector. Make sure the buzzer BLACK wire matches the BLACK pin, and the RED wire matches the RED pin.
* Servo port 14 RED pin goes to a 20cm ORANGE Dupont connector and is routed to the accessory port to provide +5V for sensors or other accessories.
* Servo port 14 BLACK pin goes to a 20cm BROWN Dupont connector and is routed to the accessory port to provide GND for sensors or other accessories.
* Servo port 15 RED terminal goes to a 20cm RED Dupont connector and is routed to the accessory port to provide +5V for sensors or other accessories.
* Servo port 15 BLACK terminal goes to 20cm BLACK Dupont connector and is routed to the accessory port to provide ground for sensors or other accessories.
* Servo port 15 signal terminal goes to 20cm WHITE Dupont connector and is routed to the accessory port to provide signal for a servo used in an optional accessory.

===Accessory Port Wire Bundle===
The 20cm wires connected to the Nano and Servo Controller provide access to digital ports, analog ports, and power for accessories such as sensors, lights, or other projects. These wires should be bundled up near their unconnected ends (a rubber band works well for keeping them all together) and routed to the large opening below the accessory port hex head screws on the chassis. When there is no accessory in use, these wires can remain tucked inside the accessory port. When needed, pull them out a few inches and connect to sensors or other electrical accessories.

=== Connecting the HC-SR04 Ultrasonic Rangefinder to the Accessory Port ===
When building the robot you routed longer jumper wires (20cm) to the accessory port. You need four of these wires to use the Ultrasonic Rangefinder:

* RED accessory port wire goes to HC-SR04 VCC
* BLACK accessory port wire goes to HC-SR04 GND
* GREEN accessor port wire goes to HC-SR04 TRIG
* BLUE accessory port wire goes to HC-SR04 ECHO

The Scratch block assumes you've used this setup.

=== Connecting the Light Sensor (or any Arduino compatible 5 volt analog sensor) ===
* RED or ORANGE accessory port wire goes to the center pin, which is usually unmarked (may also be marked +5V, Vcc or Vin) on the sensor
* BLACK or BROWN accessory port wire goes to the ground pin on the sensor, which is usually marked with a minus sign (-) or may be marked GND or G.
* YELLOW (A3) accessory port wire goes to the Signal pin on the sensor. This is often marked (S) but on some sensors may have other markings.
** You may also use PURPLE (A6) for a sensor (or a second sensor)
** The Scratch Sensor block allows you to choose A3 (YELLOW) or A6 (PURPLE) sensor ports.

=== A note on how many things can be connected through the accessory port===
We are providing two sets of power connectors at the accessory port for sensors or other accessories. RED/BLACK and ORANGE/BROWN each respectively provide +5V/GND. It's up to you what things you want to connect using these. You could have one or two sensors, you could have a sensor and some kind off motorized accessory (small motor only!). You could have a sensor and an LED light strip, etc.

Nothing is stopping you from creating a Y connector to make additional power connections, except that there is a limit of 3 amps of current that you can pull from the battery/BEC system. The robot itself needs up to 2.5 amps during fast motions. But many sensors can operate on just a few milliamps. Adding a motorized accessory is where you would need to be careful about how much current you're pulling from the system. If you pull too much current, typically the BEC will overheat and go into thermal protection mode, which will shut down all the motors until you reboot the robot. It is possible to use a mini servo or two under moderate load for a motorized accessory (for example our grip arm add-on kit), but a full sized servo under heavy load would likely be too much. Use caution when designing your own accessories, especially if they are going to use more than a few hundred milliamps of current.

=== Robot Screw Sizes ===
* Servo horn screws: 12 x M2.5 by 8mm long
* Switch assembly: 2 x #6-32 by 1/2" long

==Electrical Connectons: Gamepad==
NOTE: If you have a QuickBuild version of our kit, this information is for reference only. All the connections are already made in QuickBuild kits. This information might still be useful if you are an advanced user who may want to add new electrical components or modify the system.

=== GAMEPAD NANO PIN CONNECTIONS ===
[[File:Gamepad-Nano-Diagram-v3.JPG|thumb|600px|right|Diagram of Nano connections for the Gamepad. Click for larger image.]]
* D2 through D9 are connected to the button matrix pins.Looking from the top of the button matrix module, the rightmost button matrix pin (labeled 1) goes to D9, second to right (labeled 2) to D8, etc.
* D10 to SD card CS (may be labelled SS on some SD card readers)
* D11 to SD card MOSI
* D12 to SD card MISO
* D13 to SD card SCK (may be labelled SCL on some SD card readers)

* A0 Unused
* A1 Dpad OUT (white wire)
* A2 Dpad VCC (red wire)
* A3 Dpad GND (black wire)
* A4 HC05 Bluetooth Module Rx
* A5 HC05 Bluetooth Module Tx
* A6, A7 Unused

* VIN battery/switch positive (red wire)
* GND Either ground on the Nano goes to the battery/switch negative (black wire)
* ICSP pin 4 (see diagram): SD card reader GND. Note: Quickbuild kits do not use this, there's an extra GND wire soldered into the circuit for the SD card reader.
* ICSP pin 6 (see diagram): SD card reader VCC. Note: Quickbuild kits do not use this, there's an extra +5V wire soldered into the circuit for the SD card reader.
* Nano +5V pin goes to HC05 +5V pin
* Nano GND pin (there are two, you can use either one) goes to HCO5 GND pin

=== GAMEPAD: Screw Sizes ===

* Gamepad Cover, 4 x #6-32 by 1/2" long
* For kits prior to October 2019: switch adapter assembly, 2 x #6-32 by 1/2" long

{{Vorpal Quick Links}}

Vorpal The Hexapod Assembly Instructions

2022-04-08T12:39:22Z

Vorpalwiki: /* Electrical Connections: Robot */

{{float_box|{{VCH Quick Links}} }}
==VIDEO BUILD INSTRUCTIONS==
Besides the printed instructions further down on this page, we have two great video build tutorials created by Teaching Tech, a great YouTube channel. Please consider subscribing to "Teaching Tech," as they have great 3d printing related videos.
The printed instructions are diagrams may still be helpful in conjunction with these videos.

===Fast Overview of Quick Build Kit Assembly===
This is an overview video showing the general build procedure in just a few minutes.
If the video does not play on your device (or you want full screen), go directly to YouTube with this link: [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SynKUki6sd8 Vorpal Quick Build Overview Video]
 
<youtube>SynKUki6sd8|Vorpal Quick Build Kit Overview Video</youtube>
 

===Gamepad Build Video Tutorial (Bare Bones Kit)===
This is a detailed build video for the Bare Bones version of the Gamepad. If you have a Quick Build kit, all of the wiring is already done so you can skip a lot of this video. It is useful for showing how to place the components in the plastic case, which is the same procedure for Quick Build.

IMPORTANT NOTE: The kit was simplified after this video was made, there is no longer any power switch retainer plastic part. The power switch simply snaps into the gamepad housing directly without any screws.

If the video does not play on your device (or you want full screen), go directly to YouTube with this link: [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9ePTrEtEFWI TEACHING TECH GAMEPAD BUILD VIDEO]
 
<youtube>9ePTrEtEFWI|Gamepad Build</youtube>
 

===Hexapod Build Video Tutorial (Bare Bones Kit)===
If the video below does not play on your device (or you want full screen), go directly to YouTube with this link: [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cf1dBCwsE0o&rel=0 TEACHING TECH ROBOT BUILD VIDEO]

IMPORTANT NOTE: This video was made using the "Bare Bones" kit which requires a lot more assembly than the current "Quick Build" kits. It may still be useful for reference, because many of the steps are the same, such as plugging the servo wires into the servo controller. But there is no longer any need to make individual wire connections to the nano, for example, so those parts of the video can be skipped if you have the Quick Build kit.
 
<youtube>cf1dBCwsE0o|Hexapod Build</youtube>
 

==BILL OF MATERIALS (BOM) FOR VORPAL H12 HEXAPOD==
===Notes on Sourcing Parts===
* Full kits of parts as well as individual parts are available on [http://vorpal-robotics-store.myshopify.com The Vorpal Robotics Store]. If you are new to Arduino, wiring, and robotics we strongly recommend you purchase a kit instead of trying to self-source parts. The kits cut 3 to 4 hours off the build time, bringing it to typically 1 to 1.5 hours for Quickbuild kits and 2 to 2.5 hours for Bare Bones kits. The kits have all soldering done, programs are already loaded on the Nanos, Bluetooth modules are properly configured to auto-pair on boot, and you know you have all the right parts to work together.
* These instructions assume you have purchased a kit from us. If you are sourcing your own parts, please be aware of the following additional information:
**If you are sourcing your own parts, you need to build the switch/battery connector assembly. For diagrams see [[Vorpal Combat Hexapod Battery/Switch Construction]].
**Also see important information on that page if you are sourcing your own BEC.
**If you are sourcing your own Bluetooth modules, please be aware that you will need to configure them to auto-pair and to have a UART speed of 38400 BAUD. Every module brand is a bit different so it's not possible for us to give you universal instructions on how to program them. We assume that if you source your own parts you are familiar with how to configure Bluetooth modules using AT-commands.
* IMPORTANT NOTE ON SELF-SOURCED HC05 MODULES: It has come to our attention that some vendors are now selling HC05 modules that have an issue that causes extremely long lag times on transmissions (1.5 to 2 full seconds) due to an unusual way of buffering output. This makes the robot unusable due to nonresponsiveness. Unfortunately there is no visible model number or other information that allows you to tell which ones will have this issue just by looking at the vendor's listing. Please be aware that the HC05 modules we sell are the correct ones that don't have this issue. We are working on software changes that might solve this problem by changing how we pad out our radio packets, however that is considered beta code at this point (it might affect scratch programs). We are actively looking for some way to distinguish the bad modules from the good ones but there are just too many variations of this chip to be sure. In addition, some of the bad modules also have an issue where they overheat. The overheating does not have to do with the 3.3v TR pin, it happens even if a voltage divider is used on TR. We believe that one is just a defect in the circuit board. The bottom line is, yeah, you're getting extra value when you buy parts from us: we stand behind them and we make sure they work with this project.

=== ROBOT BOM ===
[[File:Choking-Hazard-Image.jpg|right|350px]]

* ''Electronics:''
** Passive Piezo Buzzer module and 3 wire cable (see image) [[File:Passive-Piezo-Buzzer-Module.jpg|right|thumb|Passive Piezo Buzzer Module]]
** Arduino Nano, 5V, 16 mHz, ATMEGA328 or similar (marked R in our kit to indicate it is pre-loaded with robot software)
** Rotary potentiometer, 10K Ohms, 6mm shaft diameter, with 3 wires pre-soldered. Also, matching dial cap and nut.
** 1 x HC05 BlueTooth Module with 4 x F-F jumper wires for making connections (Note: the HC05 has six pins but only four are used in this project. Also, this is in the Gamepad Parts bag if you purchase our kit.)
** 1 x Servo Controller module (Adafruit 16-channel 12-bit I2C PWM/Servo driver or Adafruit clone) with F-F jumper wires for making connections, plus 1 two-pin shunt tying V+ to VCC
** 12 x MG90 micro servo motors and associated servo horns (you will only use the single-arm horn). NOTE: If your kit includes O-rings or washers, you will need to use those on the shaft of the hip servos only. These are needed for digital servos only. Many counterfeit servos claim to be digital but are really analog and don't need the washers. For more information see [[Tower Pro MG90S Vs. Clones]].
** 1 x Power distribution wiring with on/off switch, Battery holder for two 18650 cells, 3A 5V BEC, and female connectors to distribute power. If you are self-sourcing see our [[Vorpal The Hexapod Battery/Switch Construction|Circuit Diagrams]].
* ''3D Printed Parts:''
** 1 x Chassis
** 1 x Cap
** 6 x Legs (individually marked with servo numbers)
** 1 x Switch adapter
** 12 x Servo bracket U-shaped halves
** 1 x Electronics Caddy
** 1 x Stand
** 1 x Eye/glasses Decoration
** 1 x Joust game accessory with "rider"
** 1 x Capture the Flag game accessory with flag and cup.
** 1 x Fidget Spinner Challenge game accessory (no Fidget Spinner, just the stand)
** 1 x Ultrasonic Rangefinder Bracket
* ''Miscellaneous:''
** 9 x 10mm diameter pairs of hook and loop self-stick circular dots. These go on the hexapod cap (hook) and accessories like eyes and nameplates (loop).
** 7 x 10mm diameter by 3mm thick ceramic magnet, north pole marked. These are for Capture-the-Flag and Joust accessories. (Note: Not included in Bare Bones kit).
** 12 x socket head cap screw, 2.5mm diameter by 8mm long (for servo horns)
** 3 x #6-32 x 1/2" screw to fasten on/off switch adapter (2) and to hold electronics caddy on chassis (3)
** 2 x #6-32 x 3/4" screw for bottom two holes in accessory port.
** 2 x #6-32 x 1/2" screw for top two holes in the accessory port.
** 4 x #6-32 nuts to hold screws in accessory port.
** 2 x #6-32 wingnuts to attach accessories to accessory port.
** 1 x L shaped hex driver, 2mm, for both kinds of screw used in the kit.

=== GAMEPAD BOM ===
[[File:Choking-Hazard-Image.jpg|right|350px]]
* ''Electronics:''
** 1 x Battery/Switch Wiring Unit with 9v battery clip. (Note: the gamepad requires no BEC so you can use this fact to distinguish from the robot wiring unit)
** 1 x 4x4 button matrix with associated connecting wires. The matrix we use is marked YL-102 in the corner. See the picture. It's blue and has the keys number K1 through K16. You may be able to use others but the pin numbers may differ. [[File:4x4-Matrix.png|right|250px]]
** 1 x Dpad Button module with associated connecting wires. The one we use is marked Keyes_AD_Key and has yellow buttons and a red circuit board. See picture. [[File:Keyes-AD-Key.PNG|right|250px]]
** 1 x HC05 Bluetooth module and four wires to connect it
** 1 x microSD Card Reader module and six wires to connect it, and a microSD card that is compatible with the Arduino SD library. A microSD card is required for record/play features to work. The capacity should be 2 gb or less, either SD or SDHC format. The gamepad can be used to format the card for use by Arduino (hold down W4 while booting the gamepad, count to 10 slowly, release W4).
** 1 x Ardunio Nano, 5V, 16 mHz, ATMEGA328 or similar (marked "G" in our kit to indicate it is pre-loaded with Gamepad software). Note: For MAC users it is far easier to get Scratch to work if the gamepad Nano uses an FTDI serial chip instead of a CHG34X chip. Our kits use the more expensive FTDI version of the Nano in the Gamepad for this reason.
* ''3D Printed Plastic Parts:''
** 1 x Gamepad base plastic part
** 1 x Gamepad top plastic part
** 1 x Gamepad button carrier
** NOTE: Gamepad Base versions before April 2018 also required 1 x Switch Adapter
* ''Fasteners:''
** 4 x #6-32 x 1/2" screw to hold cover on gamepad (4) and also to hold switch adapter on base (2)
** NOTE: Gamepad Base versions before April 2018 also required 2 more of these screws to hold on the switch adapter.

=== Sensors ===
These are included in the Deluxe version of our kit. They're mainly useful for Scratch programming activities.
* 1 x HCSR04 Ultrasonic Rangefinder
* 1 x Analog Light sensor
* 1 x 30cm USB cord type A to mini

==3D Printing the Plastic Parts==

===Obtaining the STL Files===

You can find all the current STL files here: [http://tinyurl.com/VORPALFILES VORPAL FILES]. Go to the STL folder. The Vorpal Hexapod STLs are in the subfolder ROBOT and the gamepad parts are in GAMEPAD. There are subfolders with accessories (such as sensor housings and game pieces).

===Printing Notes and Tips===

This project has been finely tuned to make it easy to 3D print. No supports are required for any of the parts. In some cases you may want to use brims or rafts to help parts adhere to the print surface. There is minimal bridging, never farther than about 15mm (5/8"). Some of the parts do require some flexibility, for example the sides of the servo compartments need to bend outward while the servos are inserted, they then snap back into place when the servo is completely inserted. This means brittle plastics like PLA are not the best choice for this project. (Although we have made PLA hexapods and they do work if you're careful when inserting the servos).

This page assumes you have basic familiarity with 3D printing and 3D printing terminology. If not, you might want to reference online materials such as youtube videos or information from your 3D printer manufacturer before attempting this project.

If you are 3D printing the plastic parts (as opposed to buying them pre-printed), here are some tips.

* MINIMUM PRINTER REQUIREMENTS
** The bed size should be at least 150mm cube (5.9 inches cube). The largest part is the hexapod base so it is the limiting factor on bed size.
** A heated bed is strongly recommended, especially if you are printing in ABS.
* RECOMMENDED PLASTICS
** ABS and PETG both work well. When we sell Full Kits and Assembled Vorpals we use ABS.
** PLA is somewhat brittle, but it will work if you're careful. Inserting the servos into the legs and hips will somewhat flex the plastic so be careful during that process with PLA. Attaching the two halves of the leg hinges together can be more successful in PLA if you first soak the hinges in very hot tap water to soften up the plastic a bit.
* PRINT SETTINGS. We print using the following settings on a Lulzbot TAZ 6 or Lulzbot Mini with 0.5mm nozzle:
** 0.38 layer thickness (or whatever layer thickness is optimal for your printer)
** 1mm walls (i.e. two perimeters)
** 1.14mm top and bottom (i.e. three layers)
** 15% infill
** You can print with thinner layers if your printer does not support 0.38mm layers or if you want a more refined look, it will just take longer.
* BRIMS AND RAFTS
** Brims or rafts are recommended for the following hexapod parts: Base, Legs, Electronics Caddy, Cap. This ensures proper bed retention to avoid warping. These parts have relatively little contact area with the print bed, or have certain sections with little contact.
** Brims/rafts are not recommended on any of the other parts. The other parts generally have enough bed surface contact that they will print fine without brims. Your mileage may vary however and it is recommended that you keep a close eye on the first few layers of the print to make sure everything is sticking properly. If not, you can cancel the job with minimal loss of plastic then restart with brims or rafts.
** We personally prefer brims (such as available in Cura) as they are easy to remove and leave a clean look.
* POST PRINT
**Other than removing brims/rafts and the occasional drip, there is not any special post-processing required after printing.
**However, be very careful to inspect the hemispheres jutting out of one side of each of the servo holders, these need to be as low friction as possible. Inspect for drips and defects. If necessary, use a file or sand paper to smooth them out.

== Building the Robot ==

You will need the following tools:
* 2mm hex key. A 5/64 inch hex key will also work. This is in the Hexapod Parts bag. (NOTE: Some very early kits put this in the Deluxe Parts Bag).
* A marker that can write on dark plastic and still be seen, such as Sharpie Metallic or Sharpie Oil markers (white and yellow work great).
** This is the easiest way to mark servo wires with their corresponding leg number
** If you don't have these types of marker, you could use clear tape and bits of paper to tape wire labels near the socket end of the servo cable. Don't put labels right on the black plastic connectors at the end of the servo because you'll make them too thick to fit side by side when plugged in.
===Servo Pre Check===
Sometimes the servo motor gearbox will get locked up when sitting for a long time, for example during shipping, especially in cold weather. The following procedure will ensure they work properly. (Note: Some MG90S servo bags distributed in the past with our kits say not to turn the servo horn, these instructions supercede that note on the bag).

* Put a one-arm servo horn on each servo. You don't need a screw, just put it on in any random position for now.
* ''Slowly'' and ''gently'' rock the servo horn by hand so it turns. Do not use a lot of force. Note that there is a physical stop that only allows it to turn 180 degrees. If you push in one direction and it won't move, rock it in the other direction.
* As soon as it moves, even just 10 or 20 degrees in either direction, you've confirmed the servo is not locked. Do not leave it at an extreme position where it stops, leave it somewhere around the middle.
If any servo fails to move with modest pressure and a gentle rocking motion, put a mark on that servo, near where the wire comes out. It will most likely unfreeze when power is applied, but you need to keep an eye on it for now.

===Step by Step Instructions===

*'''STEP 1: Insert accessory port screws in the chassis''' Insert 5/8" #6-32 hex head screws in the bottom two holes of the accessory port, head of the screw inside the hexapod, then tighten nuts outside. Repeat for the top two accessory holes with shorter 1/2" #6-32 hex head screws. The heads of the screws recess into hexogonal holes so you don't need to use pliers inside the robot body, just for the nuts. Two wingnuts go on the two lower screws, these will be used to secure accessories such as the Joust lance or Capture-the-Flag attachment.
<gallery mode=packed>
File:Hexhead-Screw.JPG|Be sure to use the hex head screws for the accessory port.
File:Accessory-Port-Diagram-V2.JPG|The accessory port is considered the "front" of the robot.
File:Accessory-Port-Screws.JPG|Longer hex head screws go on the bottom. Do not overtighten the nuts.
File:Wing-Nuts-Installed.JPG|After installing the nuts, put the wingnuts on the bottom screws. They'll be used later to secure accessories.
</gallery>
*'''STEP 2: Insert servos in the chassis.'''
** Next, insert the servo into the chassis as shown in the diagrams below. As you insert the servo into the chassis, slowly press it straight into place until it clicks in under the small tab on one side of the servo holder. Make sure it stays straight as you push down.
** Immediately mark the black connector at the end of the wire to indicate the servo number (which is engraved in the top of the servo holder, a number between 0 and 5).
*** A metallic sharpie pen works very well for this, or a light colored oil paint sharpie such as white.
*** If you don't have any of those things, a little piece of masking tape can be affixed to the wire and marked, or you could use clear cellophane tape to attach little bits of marked paper to the wire. Do not attach any tape or paper to the black connector, as it will be a tight fit when connecting later.
*** The wire coming out of the servo sticks out away from the robot, the servo shaft would face down toward the table top if the chassis were resting on the table.
** After inserting the servo, thread the wire through the top servo wire guide hole, and into the center of the chassis.
[[File:ServoChassisInsert.png|400px|Insert Servo in Chassis]]
[[File:spacerimage.png|100px|Insert Servo in Chassis]]
[[File:ServoHipInserted.png|140px|Insert Servo in Chassis]]
* '''STEP 3: Insert the servos in the Legs.''' The technique is very similar to inserting the servo into the chassis.
**Insert the servo straight into the leg socket so that the wire is coming out of the servo facing away from the plastic leg and the face of the servo with the shaft and servo horn goes into the open faced side of the leg, as shown in the diagram.
**The servos in the legs are called the "knee" servos. Each leg has a higher number on it, this is the knee number, they run from 6 to 11. Again, write this number on the black connector at the end of the servo wire. PRO TIP: For 6 and 9, underline the number so you don't read them upside down!
[[File:Servo-Insert-Leg-v2.png|350px|Insert Servo in Legs]]
[[File:spacerimage.png|100px|Insert Servo in Chassis]]
[[File:Servo-Leg-Inserted-v2.png|350px|Insert Servo in Legs]]
* '''STEP 4: Thread each leg servo wire''' into the bottom wire guide slot on the chassis. Each leg servo should be matched with a hip servo plus 6. The legs are marked with the hip number near the top and the knee number below that. For example, the leg marked 6 should be threaded through the wire guide on hip servo 0, leg 7 goes with hip 1, leg 8 goes with hip 2, etc. Add 6 to the hip number to get the leg number.
* '''STEP 5: Build the electrical system.''' You need to power up the servos and make them seek to the 90 degree position, this will allow you to adjust the legs properly for walking.
** STEP 5A: Take the potentiometer and remove the cap, then unscrew the nut and set these items aside for now. Push the potentiometer shaft from the inside of the chassis, into the hole that has the markings "STOP", "TST", etc. The wires coming out of the potentiometer should be pointing down and you may need to bend them a bit to make it all fit. Put the retaining nut on the potentiometer, hand tighten first and then give it just another half turn or so with pliers if desired. Turn the knob all the way counter clockwise, then insert the knob so it points to the letter "O" in the word "STOP".
** STEP 5B: Find the on/off switch (which is attached to the battery holder assembly). There was a change to how this was installed in October, 2019. The older version requires a "switch adapter," while the new version just uses a slot to feed in the wires. The two sets of diagrams below illustrate both the old and the new way of installing the switch.
New Version Switch Installation:
<gallery mode=packed heights=200>
File:NewSwitchInstall-Step1.jpg|Thread the switch and its wires through the Base, there is an opening under the switch hole.
File:NewSwitchInstall-Step2.jpg|Bring the wires up through the slot below the switch hole.
File:NewSwitchInstall-Step3.jpg|Press the switch into the hole, it should snap into place. The "1" should be on top.
</gallery>
Old Version Switch Installation (before about mid October 2019):
<gallery mode=packed>
File:Assembly-Switch-Bracket-Insertion.JPG|Thread the wires through the gap in the adapter
File:Assembly-Switch-Bracket-Done.JPG|Press the switch into the adapter.
File:Assembly-Switch-Bracket-Insertion-into-Base.JPG|From the inside of the robot, line up the switch/adapter with the switch hole.
File:Assembly-Switch-Bracket-in-Base.JPG|While holding the switch/adapter in place, insert screws from the outside of the robot.
</gallery>
** STEP 5C: If you do not have a "QuickBuild" version of the kit, then make all the connections listed in the ELECTRICAL CONNECTIONS section of these instructions below. Be extremely careful about the power connections. Double check all connections before powering on. If you do have a QuickBuild kit, all the connections are already made for you.
[[File:Servo-Horn-Orientation.png|thumb|right|The servo horn should come straight out from the body at a 90 degree angle as shown here. Do not turn the servo shaft by hand until after it has moved under power!]]
* '''STEP 6: Power up!''' Make sure the on/off switch is off, and the knob is turned to STOP. Insert batteries and power on the robot using the on/off switch. You should hear a beep, a pause, then a second beep. The servos should all twitch into position. If the robot does not move at all, immediately turn the switch off and check your connections again. If some of the servos don't move (especially any you marked during the servo pre-check) then gently push them with power off to see if you can free them up. If they still won't move, try pushing them with power applied, but turn off the power within 30 seconds if they're locked up. If you can't get the servo to move it will need to be replaced.
* '''STEP 7: Insert Servo Horns.''' The servo horns are all at random angles right now due to the servo pre-check. In this step we'll make them point in the right direction. The knee servos are not at 90 degrees when the knob is all the way counter clockwise, rather they are at a 30 degree standing angle. We need to get them to 90 degrees so its easy to align the servo horn. Turn the knob very slightly clockwise and you will see all the knee servos twitch. This is "adjust servo horn mode". All servos (knees and hips) are now at their halfway point, 90 degrees. Now you need to take each single arm servo horn and carefully insert it on the shaft so that it is sticking straight out as shown in the figure. You will not always be able to make the horn come totally straight out. This is because there are only 22 little groves (splines) in each shaft, meaning you can in general only come within about 8 degrees of being at a perfect 90 degree angle. This amount of error is acceptable, just get it as close as you can. It is better for the horn to be a little too much clockwise than to be a little too much counterclockwise, especially for the knees. Do this for all hip and knee servos. Do not insert any screws yet.
[[File:Servo-Bracket-Alignment-v1.png|thumb|350px|right|Align the leg hinges as shown here. The bumps (see arrows) should both be near each other when properly aligned. Hold one in each hand with the ends of the U shape between thumb and forefinger.]]
* '''STEP 8: Assemble the leg hinges'''. Each leg hinge is composed of two identical U-shaped parts. Take one in each hand and align the two so that the bump (shown in the diagram at the right) are both near each other. Turn one 90 degrees with respect to the other.
**Gently squeeze each piece between thumb and forefinger, which causes the little jaws in the center to open up slightly. Work the two halves together. Squeeze just enough so they work their way on, no more or you might break the part!.
**At this stage, you may notice that the parts are loosely clamped on each other. Don't worry! When you place the leg hinges over a servo, the servo will spread it apart and they will lock together tightly.
* '''STEP 9: Attach Leg Hinges.''' The leg hinges connect the hips to the knees. They only go on one way. First place the end that matches the servo horn on, then you need to very slightly bend the U shaped piece while pulling it over the hemispherical bearing on the other side. It's a little easier to do the knees (servos mounted to legs) first, followed by the hips (servos on base).
**NOTE: It should not be excessively difficult to push the hinge over the hemispherical bearing. If you find you are struggling, that means the hinges are too tight. This may affect walking. This can be due to the kind of plastic you used or how your printer is adjusted. You may need to gently spread the two legs of the U shape by hand before putting the hinge on the robot. Be careful of course not to break the hinge.
* '''STEP 10: Test Knee Positions.''' Turn the knob fully counter clockwise (to STOP) and the robot will go into "stand still" mode. Place it on a level surface such as a table top. Do all of the legs touch the ground? If one or more legs don't touch the ground, you need to adjust the servo horn on the knee a little bit so it does touch. Gently pull off the servo bracket. Pull the servo horn off, and put it back on just a little bit moved so the leg would move closer to the ground. Put the servo bracket back on, and see how it looks. Do this until all legs are at least slightly touching the ground. Again, you can't necessarily be perfect due to the 8 degree increments the servo horns can be moved. But you should be able to be close enough that all legs at least slightly touch the ground.
* '''STEP 11: Insert Servo Screws.''' Now that the legs are adjusted, you can insert the M2.5x8 screws into the servo horns to lock them in place. Note that you will NOT be using the screws that were in the little bag the servos came in, you'll be using the separate pack of screws, which are longer than the ones in the servo bag. Do not overtighten these screws, as you could possibly crack the servo brackets. Just turn the screws until you start to feel resistance, then turn a quarter turn more and stop.
* '''STEP 12: Test Individual Servos.''' To test whether every servo is working, put the robot on its stand. Then start with the knob on STOP, then slowly turn it clockwise. First the servos will go into adjust mode, you used that a moment ago to set the servo horns. But, keep going, and the robot will go into "individual servo test mode". In this mode, every hip servo will move, one by one. When all the hips have moved, every leg will move, one by one. You should see every servo move, in order. If some don't move, check your connections. A common error is to plug a servo connector into the servo controller backwards (i.e. the brown wire is matched with the yellow pin instead of the black pin).
{| class="wikitable" align=right style="float:right; background:transparent; margin: {{{margins|1em 1em 1em 1em}}}; {{{style|}}}"
|-
| <youtube>5T7E1IqHxNc|Electronics Caddy Tutorial</youtube>
|}
* '''STEP 13: Test Using Demo Mode.''' Ok, everything looks good, so time for a full test. Turn the knob to STOP, then take the robot off the stand and put it on the floor. Turn the knob to DEMO, and the robot will go through a series of movements to demonstrate some of the things it can do. The full demo only takes about 30 seconds, then repeats. Here, you are looking for the robot to, for example, be able to get back up off the floor after doing some of its dance moves. If the robot struggles to get off the floor, you may have a battery that is not fully charged, or there may be too much friction between the servo bracket and the little ball socket it sits in. A tiny bit of silicone lubricant will usually fix that problem, or just make sure those parts are cleaned up from 3D printing and don't have an excess strands of material that are causing friction. See the [[Vorpal Combat_Hexapod Troubleshooting Guide|Trouble Shooting Guide]] for more information about different kinds of issues that can occur.
* '''STEP 14: Store the Electronics in the Caddy''' Now things look pretty messy with all those wires hanging loose, let's clean it up by stowing them in the electronics caddy. Please reference the video and diagrams here for quick instructions.
** '''STEP 14A: Insert Caddy Bars''' Insert the two electronics caddy bars as shown in the diagrams below. Notice carefully how they are inserted. You may need to slightly squeeze the forked section at the end to work it into the hole. Once inside, it may be difficult to remove because it will snap into place, so be sure you're putting it in the right way.
<gallery mode=packed>
File:Electronics-Caddy-Insert-Bar.JPG|Here one bar has already been inserted, the other is being put into place. Notice the orientation, don't put it in upside down. The little nubs at the end should be facing the caddy.
</gallery>
** '''STEP 14B: Insert the Servo Controller and Arduino Nano''' The diagrams here do not show the wires to make them easier to visualize. Carefully insert the servo controller as shown, making sure you don't pull out any of the wires. You may need to wiggle the electronics caddy bar from side to side a bit so that components can slide past it during insertion. Notice that the end of the Servo controller with wires sticking out of it must go in last. Carefully insert the Arduino Nano as shown, making sure you don't pull out any of the wires. You may need to wiggle the electronics caddy bar from side to side a bit so that components can slide past it during insertion. Notice that the end of the Nano that has the USB port must go in last.
<gallery mode=packed>
File:Electronics-Caddy-Insert-ServoController.JPG|Insert the servo controller so it is sandwiched between the bar and the electronics caddy. Wires not shown for clarity.
File:Electronics-Caddy-Insert-Nano.JPG|Insert the Nano so that the USB port faces out away from the electronics caddy, this allows you to access it without disassembling the robot.
File:Electronics-Caddy-Assembled-Underside.JPG|This is what the underside of the electronics caddy looks like after inserting the Servo Controller and Arduino Nano. Wires not shown for clarity.
</gallery>
** '''STEP 14C: Insert the HC05 Bluetooth Module''' The diagrams here do not show the wires to make them easier to visualize. The HC05 Bluetooth module with a name beginning with "S" should be used for the robot. For example, the label will read something like "VORP S2944" (the number will differ). The one marked "M" will be used for the gamepad. Slide the HC05 into the side drawer as shown. When inserting, be careful not to pull out the wires, which will be a little tight. Work the wires into the little space provided so they stay clear of the robot's cap when it gets screwed on later.
<gallery mode=packed>
File:Electronics-Caddy-Insert-HC05.JPG|Insert the HC05 into the side drawer as shown.
File:Electronics-Caddy-Assembled-HC05.JPG|When fully inserted, the indicator light will still be visible through the small oval. The wires should be tucked into the little cavity near the pins of the HC05.
</gallery>
* '''STEP 15: Assemble the Cap'''
** '''STEP 15A: Put hook-and-loop dots in the Cap''' Insert a "hook" circular self-stick dot in each of the 10mm circular holder areas in the cap. Do not use the fuzzy "loop" side of the hook-and-loop pair, use the "hook" side of the pair. Press firmly so the glue backing sticks firmly to the plastic. NOTE: Older versions of this project used magnets on the cap and eye decorations. If you are assembling an older version, press the magnet into the cap firmly (you may need to use pliers) and make sure the marked face (north pole) is showing. On accessories like eyes, make sure the unmarked face (south pole) is showing.
** '''STEP 15B: Decorate''' If desired, use a permanent marker to color the Vorpal "V" on top of the Cap. Oil markers work well. On light colors of plastic a black permanent marker will also work.
** '''STEP 15C: Put Cap on the Hexapod''' Screw the cap on the robot by lining up the tabs with the matching slots in the rim of the base. Turn the cap clockwise to lock it in place. IMPORTANT: Do not press down on the robot to insert the cap when the robot is under power standing on its legs! You can damage the leg motors by doing this. It is best to turn the robot off, and either support the bottom of the Base with one hand and press the Cap on with the other, or set the Base down on the table top or floor with legs out to the sides so they don't take pressure.
* '''STEP 16: Bounce Pads''' There is a foam pad with a peel-off self-sticking side. This goes on the bottom of the robot. It allows dance moves that slam the robot to the floor to be safe for the robot's parts.
<gallery mode=packed>
File:Robot-Foam-Installation.JPG|Peel off the paper and stick the foam on the bottom of the robot.
</gallery>
* '''STEP 17: Warning Label''' There are two a self-stick choking hazard warning labels in the hexapod parts bag. Peel the backing off one of them and place it on the bottom of the robot, near the center of the foam. Retain the second label for the gamepad.

== Building the Gamepad ==
[[File:Gamepad-Overall-Assembly-Exploded.png|thumb|600px|right|Gamepad order of parts during assembly (wires not shown for clarity).]]
To go beyond demo mode, you need to build the Vorpal Gamepad. The Vorpal Gamepad allows you to call up many different actions by the hexapod such as walking, turning, dancing, or fighting. The gamepad can also be used as a transmitter to allow Scratch programs to wirelessly control your robot from a computer.

=== Part 1: Gamepad Electrical System (Skip if using a QuickBuild kit) ===

If you DO NOT have a "QuickBuild" version of our kit, then you must first assemble the electrical components of the gamepad as follows. Please SKIP this entire section if you have a QuickBuild version of our kit, and proceed to Part 2.

* '''STEP 1: Attach cables to the button matrix.''' Pull 8 wires off the Dupont wire bundle. The colors don't really matter so just take 8 adjacent wires and leave them together if possible. Carefully push these 8 wires, in order, onto the pins coming out of the 4x4 button matrix. Make sure the wire connectors don't "swap places" by twisting under each other, it is very important that the order be correct.
[[File:Gamepad-Electronics-Layout.png|thumb|right|400 px|Layout of Electronic Boards. Left to right: Arduino Nano, HC05 Bluetooth Module, and SD Card reader. (wires are left out of diagram for clarity)]]

* '''STEP 2: Attach cables to the yellow D-PAD buttons.''' Pull three wires off the Dupont wire bundle of the following colors: red, black, white. Plug the white wire into the yellow D-PAD button module's pin marked OUT (output). The middle pin marked VCC gets the red wire, and the pin marked GND gets the black wire.

* '''STEP 3: Connect the electrical system wires.''' Using the connections indicated in the section below on electrical wiring, plug in all the wires for the Arduino Nano, HC05 Bluetooth module, SD Card Reader, and button modules.

=== Part 2: Inserting Gamepad Components into Plastic Base ===

* '''STEP 1: Install the switch.'''
** If you printed version V1R8c or later, or you received printed parts from us in or after April, 2018: Gamepad Base designs before April, 2018 required a switch adapter to be installed in a similar way to the hexapod robot Base, however that was eliminated in version V1R8c of the Gamepad. With the new design you just leave the switch hanging out of the switch hole on the back of the base until you screw on the top of the gamepad, then you press fit the switch into the resulting rectangular hole.
** If you printed gamepad Base versions earlier than V1r8c or you received printed parts from us before April, 2018: Take the switch/battery assembly and use two #6-32 screws 1/2" long to attach it on the inside wall of the gamepad base, in the rectangular hole. The switch itself is sandwiched between the gamepad wall and a switch adapter (the same switch adapter model used for the robot is used for the gamepad, you need to print two of them). DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN THE SCREWS.

* ''' STEP 2: Place the buttons''' Place the 4x4 button matrix and also the yellow D-PAD button module in the matching places on the button bracket. The yellow D-PAD buttons should be placed down first, and you may need to slightly bend the pins downward. The 4x4 button matrix also should have its pins slightly bent downward, then its wires will go on top of the wires coming out of the yellow D-PAD button module.
**NOTE: The yellow caps on the D-PAD buttons are optional. We normally remove these because we have found that in demo situations some people, especially young children, will press the yellow buttons so hard that they dislodge the caps. They will press right back on, it's not a problem really, however they may think they broke the controller. We feel it's better just to take them off.

* '''STEP 3: Insert the Arduino Nano.''' The Arduino Nano should be oriented such that its USB port is coming out the square hole on the left side of the base, and all the outgoing wires from the Nano are coming out toward the front of the base. Once in place, gently push the side of the Nano opposite of the USB port until it clicks into place, securing it.

* ''' STEP 4: Insert the HC05 Bluetooth Module.''' Slip the HC05 Bluetooth module under the U shaped bracket near the center of the gamepad base. Its lights should be facing upward, they will be visible through holes in the top of the gamepad and this helps you know that the gamepad is turned on.

* '''STEP 5: Put it all together.''' Put the 9v battery clip inside the battery box area of the base. Place the button bracket on top of the base, then place the gamepad top on the button bracket, sandwiching the button modules in place. Align the four screw holes in the corners with the matching holes on the base and secure with four #6-32 screws 1/2" long. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN. NOTE: You might want to just put two screws in, and don't even put them all the way in, until you test the gamepad. In that way, if it does not work, you can easily open it back up to check connections.

'''STEP 6: Detect D-PAD Style''' Turn the gamepad's switch to the OFF (0) position, then insert a charged 9v battery. Hold down the top button on the D-PAD module (the one above the grouping of four directional buttons). While still holding this button, turn the switch to the ON (1) position, you should see lights come on inside the gamepad. Count slowly to ten, then release the D-PAD button. This procedure causes the gamepad to detect what kind of D-PAD is being used so that it may interpret the button presses correctly. You only need to do this once (or after swapping in a new D-PAD module, for example after a repair). The setting is stored in nonvolatile EEPROM on the gamepad's Arduino Nano.

* '''STEP 7: Test!''' Turn the switch to "0" (off). Connect a 9v battery to the 9v battery clip then slide the battery door onto the base. Turn the switch to "1" (on). Lights should be visible through the holes. Turn the hexapod's dial all the way clockwise, to "RC" thus putting it in Bluetooth mode. Turn the hexapod on and wait a few seconds for it to completely boot. Try to control the robot! Try hitting each of the top three rows of 4x4 matrix buttons (W, F, D) one by one, and test to make sure every mode functions. If most modes work but a couple do not, you may have swapped some wires coming off the matrix.

* '''STEP 8: Decorate''' If desired, use a marker to darken the Vorpal "V" symbol, the W, F, D, R markings, the 0 and 1 switch markings, and the record/play symbols under the 4x4 button matrix. This will make them more visible as well as making the gamepad look nicer. We like using oil based paint markers. For dark colored plastics, use a white oil paint marker, for light colored plastics use black, blue, or red to contrast with the plastic color.

'''STEP 9: Warning Label''' There were two a self-stick choking hazard warning labels in the hexapod parts bag. You used one for the robot. Peel the backing off the other and place it on the bottom of the gamepad, being sure not to interfere with the battery drawer.

= Trimming the Servos =
When you assembled the servo horns onto the servos, you probably were not able to get them all to come out exactly at a 90 degree angle. That's not your fault: the servo horns only have 22 possible positions in which they can be installed, so at best you can come within plus or minus 8 degrees of perfection.

Now that you have the gamepad working, you can make fine adjustments to the servo positions using "Trim Mode". In this special gamepad mode, you can adjust all the servos. These adjustments are saved in the robot's EEPROM, which is memory on the Nano that retains data even when powered off. So, you only need to trim once.

Complete instructions on how to use trim mode are in the wiki page: [[Vorpal The Hexapod Trim Mode Guide]].

NOTE: although this step is optional, it is recommended because your robot will walk straighter and all the servos will share equally in lifting the robot's weight, which will make them last longer.

=Assembling Game Accessories and Nameplates=
Most of the accessory pieces require no assembly, or just require press fitting magnets into round holes or attaching self-stick velcro.

When inserting magnets, the rule is: anything that attaches to the robot via the accessory port screws should have the dimpled side of the magnet ''showing'', and anything that is supposed to attach to the robot or a screwed-on accessory should have the dimple side ''down, not showing''.

Based on this rule, the dimpled side of the magnet should '''not''' show for these items:
* Flag
* Joust Rider
* Name plate

And the dimple ''should'' be showing for these items:
* Capture the Flag Arm
* Joust Lance

==Assembling Sensors==
The light sensor and ultrasonic rangefinder sensor can be assembled with two screws each. The sensor module is sandwiched in between two plastic pieces. These screws are in the Deluxe Parts Bag. The screws will self-thread into the plastic. Do not overtighten or you will strip the plastic and the screws won't hold. When the screw head is all the way down, stop turning.

The ultrasonic rangefinder sensor attaches to the accessory port screws.

The light sensor wedges into one of the slotted holes in the cap.
==Electrical Connections: Robot (Bare Bones Kit/Reference)==

NOTE: If you have a QuickBuild version of our kit, this information is for reference only. All the connections are already made in QuickBuild kits. This information is primarily for Bare Bones kit builders, or self-source parts builders. It is also useful if you are an advanced user who may want to add new electrical components or modify the system.

===NOTES ON JUMPER WIRES===

This section is for self-source builders and Bare Bones Kit builders. Quickbuild kits are pre-wired and electrical systems are fully tested, so you can skip this section if you have a Quickbuild kit.

====Wire Lengths====
There are two different lengths of female-female Dupont jumper wires used to make most connections. The longer ones (20cm) are only used for the Hexapod's accessory port connections. The shorter ones are used for all the connections on the Gamepad and all the connections on the Hexapod between the Arduino Nano, Servo controller and Bluetooth module.

====Wire Color Conventions====

Please follow these conventions when selecting wire colors:
* For +5V, Vin, and similar positive voltage connections, use either RED or ORANGE.
* For GND and other negative electrical connections, use BLACK or BROWN.
* For the connectors that sit at the mouth of the accessory port (used for optional sensors) colors are suggested below in the instructions. By following these suggestions you will make your life easier when connecting sensors!
* For all other connections, you can use any color you want, it's arbitrary.

====If Jumper Wires Are Too Loose====
Sometimes you will find a wire whose connector does not grip the pin well enough. It might fall off very easily or just by gravity alone. If that happens, you have a few options:
* There are extra wires in your kit. If you find a wire that's too loose, just use a different wire.
* Using the hex key, you can put the jumper housing on a flat surface then press on the metal showing through the plastic connector, which will tighten up the jumper wire's grip. Don't go too overboard on pressing though or you might make it too hard to insert.
* Alternatively, you could use electrical tape after inserting all the wires on a module (such as the Nano) to effectively attach together all the little plastic female connector housings. In that way, the connectors that do grip will help hold in the ones that are too loose. Some people also like using hot glue for this purpose. (Personally, I don't like using hot glue, as it makes it harder to change connections if you hooked something up incorrectly.)

===NANO PIN CONNECTIONS (Bare Bones Kit/Reference)===
NOTE: If you are using our Quickbuild kit, this information is for reference only. Quickbuild kit wiring is already completed and tested.

[[File:Hexapod-Nano-Diagram.JPG|thumb|600px|right|Diagram of Nano connections for the Hexapod. Jumpers marked AP are routed to the Accessory Port for use with add-ons like sensors. Click for larger image.]]
* ''Digital IO Pins:''
** D0, D1 are reserved because they are used for uploading programs to the robot, so nothing will be connected there.
** D2 Bluetooth Module Rx
** D3 Bluetooth Module Tx
** D4 Buzzer Signal (white wire)
** D5, D6 NO CONNECTION. These pins are reserved for future expansion.
** D7 20cm GREEN Dupont connector routed to accessory port, used for Ultrasonic Rangefinder TRIG
** D8 20cm BLUE Dupont connector routed to accessory port, used for Ultrasonic Rangefinder ECHO
** D9 No connection. This pin is reserved for future expansion.
** D10 through D13 are reserved for the optional CMUCAM5 (Pixie) sensor accessory.

* ''Analog Pins:''
** A0 Potentiometer signal (white wire)
** A1 Potentiometer Power (red wire)
** A2 Potentiometer Ground (black wire)
** A3 20cm YELLOW Dupont connector routed to the accessory port, for the optional light sensor or other analog sensors.
** A4 Servo Controller SDA
** A5 Servo Controller SCL
** A6 20cm PURPLE Dupont connector, routed to the accessory port, for any analog sensor you wish to optionally add later.
** A7 No connection, reserved for future use.

* ''Power Pins:''
** VIN pin on Nano connects to Battery positive (the red Dupont connector coming off near the switch on the wiring module)
** GND pin on Nano connects to Battery negative (the black Dupont connector coming off the battery black wire)
** Second GND pin on Nano (there are two GND pins on the Nano) connects to the GND pin on the HC05 module
** +5V on Nano connects to HC05 +5V Pin

IMPORTANT NOTE: The red Dupont connector coming off the switch/battery assembly must go to VIN and never +5V, because the battery voltage is much higher than +5 volts. You will more or less instantly destroy your Nano if you put unregulated battery power directly into the +5V pin. The VIN pin has its own voltage regulator. The +5V pin on the Nano will be used to provide regulated power to the Bluetooth module.

=== Bluetooth Module Power (Bare Bones Kit/Reference)===
* +5V on HC05 connects to Nano +5V pin
* GND on HC05 connects to either of the two Nano GND pins

=== Buzzer Power (Bare Bones Kit/Reference)===
* Connect the buzzer V+ and ground (marked "-") pins (red and black respectively) to Port 13 of the Servo Controller, matching black and red wires to black and red pins on the Servo Controller. You will be using the special three wire cable provided for this purpose. It has a three-pin connector one one side, and the other side has a two-pin connector and a one-pin connector. The one-pin connector goes to the Nano and provides the signal to drive the buzzer. The two-pin connector is plugged into Servo Controller Port 13.

=== Servo Controller Connections (Bare Bones Kit/Reference)===
[[File:ServoController-Pin-Labels.JPG|thumb|600px|right|Diagram of Servo Controller pins you will use in this project. Each servo motor has a 3 wire connector. Match the brown servo wire with the black color coded pin in its servo port, match the yellow wire with the yellow pin. Click for larger image.]]
* Connect the 12 servos to port numbers corresponding to the servo marking (0 to 11). Make sure the signal wire (yellow) is oriented correctly and matches the yellow plastic header pin.
* Connect the switch/battery module regulated BEC output (a three pin Dupont connector where only two of the pins are populated, one with a red V+ wire, one with a black ground wire) to servo controller port 12 power and ground. Make sure the RED wire is going to VCC (red pin) and the BLACK wire goes to GND (black pin).
* On one short side of the Servo Controller you will find a VCC and V+ pin right next to each other. Use a shunt (small black connector that goes over two pins) to connect those together if one is not already installed. This shunt causes both the servos and the microprocessor to run at the same +5V level.
* SDA and SCL go to A4 and A5 on the Nano, respectively.
* Servo port 12 RED and BLACK pins are connected to the output of the BEC. Make sure the BEC RED wire matches with the RED pin, and the BEC BALCK wire matches with the BLACK pin.
* Servo port 13 RED and BLACK pins are connected to the passive buzzer power connector. Make sure the buzzer BLACK wire matches the BLACK pin, and the RED wire matches the RED pin.
* Servo port 14 RED pin goes to a 20cm ORANGE Dupont connector and is routed to the accessory port to provide +5V for sensors or other accessories.
* Servo port 14 BLACK pin goes to a 20cm BROWN Dupont connector and is routed to the accessory port to provide GND for sensors or other accessories.
* Servo port 15 RED terminal goes to a 20cm RED Dupont connector and is routed to the accessory port to provide +5V for sensors or other accessories.
* Servo port 15 BLACK terminal goes to 20cm BLACK Dupont connector and is routed to the accessory port to provide ground for sensors or other accessories.
* Servo port 15 signal terminal goes to 20cm WHITE Dupont connector and is routed to the accessory port to provide signal for a servo used in an optional accessory.

===Accessory Port Wire Bundle===
The 20cm wires connected to the Nano and Servo Controller provide access to digital ports, analog ports, and power for accessories such as sensors, lights, or other projects. These wires should be bundled up near their unconnected ends (a rubber band works well for keeping them all together) and routed to the large opening below the accessory port hex head screws on the chassis. When there is no accessory in use, these wires can remain tucked inside the accessory port. When needed, pull them out a few inches and connect to sensors or other electrical accessories.

=== Connecting the HC-SR04 Ultrasonic Rangefinder to the Accessory Port ===
When building the robot you routed longer jumper wires (20cm) to the accessory port. You need four of these wires to use the Ultrasonic Rangefinder:

* RED accessory port wire goes to HC-SR04 VCC
* BLACK accessory port wire goes to HC-SR04 GND
* GREEN accessor port wire goes to HC-SR04 TRIG
* BLUE accessory port wire goes to HC-SR04 ECHO

The Scratch block assumes you've used this setup.

=== Connecting the Light Sensor (or any Arduino compatible 5 volt analog sensor) ===
* RED or ORANGE accessory port wire goes to the center pin, which is usually unmarked (may also be marked +5V, Vcc or Vin) on the sensor
* BLACK or BROWN accessory port wire goes to the ground pin on the sensor, which is usually marked with a minus sign (-) or may be marked GND or G.
* YELLOW (A3) accessory port wire goes to the Signal pin on the sensor. This is often marked (S) but on some sensors may have other markings.
** You may also use PURPLE (A6) for a sensor (or a second sensor)
** The Scratch Sensor block allows you to choose A3 (YELLOW) or A6 (PURPLE) sensor ports.

=== A note on how many things can be connected through the accessory port===
We are providing two sets of power connectors at the accessory port for sensors or other accessories. RED/BLACK and ORANGE/BROWN each respectively provide +5V/GND. It's up to you what things you want to connect using these. You could have one or two sensors, you could have a sensor and some kind off motorized accessory. You could have a sensor and an LED light strip, etc.

Nothing is stopping you from creating a Y connector to make additional power connections, except that there is a limit of 3 amps of current that you can pull from the battery/BEC system. The robot itself needs up to 2.5 amps during fast motions. But many sensors can operate on just a few milliamps. Adding a motorized accessory is where you would need to be careful about how much current you're pulling from the system. If you pull too much current, typically the BEC will overheat and go into thermal protection mode, which will shut down all the motors until you reboot the robot. It is possible to use a mini servo under moderate load for a motorized accessory, but a full sized servo under heavy load might be too much. Use caution when designing your own accessories, especially if they are going to use more than a few hundred milliamps of current.

=== Robot Screw Sizes ===
* Servo horn screws: 12 x M2.5 by 8mm long
* Switch assembly: 2 x #6-32 by 1/2" long

==Electrical Connectons: Gamepad==
NOTE: If you have a QuickBuild version of our kit, this information is for reference only. All the connections are already made in QuickBuild kits. This information might still be useful if you are an advanced user who may want to add new electrical components or modify the system.

=== GAMEPAD NANO PIN CONNECTIONS ===
[[File:Gamepad-Nano-Diagram-v3.JPG|thumb|600px|right|Diagram of Nano connections for the Gamepad. Click for larger image.]]
* D2 through D9 are connected to the button matrix pins.Looking from the top of the button matrix module, the rightmost button matrix pin (labeled 1) goes to D9, second to right (labeled 2) to D8, etc.
* D10 to SD card CS (may be labelled SS on some SD card readers)
* D11 to SD card MOSI
* D12 to SD card MISO
* D13 to SD card SCK (may be labelled SCL on some SD card readers)

* A0 Unused
* A1 Dpad OUT (white wire)
* A2 Dpad VCC (red wire)
* A3 Dpad GND (black wire)
* A4 HC05 Bluetooth Module Rx
* A5 HC05 Bluetooth Module Tx
* A6, A7 Unused

* VIN battery/switch positive (red wire)
* GND Either ground on the Nano goes to the battery/switch negative (black wire)
* ICSP pin 4 (see diagram): SD card reader GND. Note: Quickbuild kits do not use this, there's an extra GND wire soldered into the circuit for the SD card reader.
* ICSP pin 6 (see diagram): SD card reader VCC. Note: Quickbuild kits do not use this, there's an extra +5V wire soldered into the circuit for the SD card reader.
* Nano +5V pin goes to HC05 +5V pin
* Nano GND pin (there are two, you can use either one) goes to HCO5 GND pin

=== GAMEPAD: Screw Sizes ===

* Gamepad Cover, 4 x #6-32 by 1/2" long
* For kits prior to October 2019: switch adapter assembly, 2 x #6-32 by 1/2" long

{{Vorpal Quick Links}}

Vorpal The Hexapod Assembly Instructions

2022-04-08T12:37:28Z

Vorpalwiki: /* Buzzer Power */

{{float_box|{{VCH Quick Links}} }}
==VIDEO BUILD INSTRUCTIONS==
Besides the printed instructions further down on this page, we have two great video build tutorials created by Teaching Tech, a great YouTube channel. Please consider subscribing to "Teaching Tech," as they have great 3d printing related videos.
The printed instructions are diagrams may still be helpful in conjunction with these videos.

===Fast Overview of Quick Build Kit Assembly===
This is an overview video showing the general build procedure in just a few minutes.
If the video does not play on your device (or you want full screen), go directly to YouTube with this link: [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SynKUki6sd8 Vorpal Quick Build Overview Video]
 
<youtube>SynKUki6sd8|Vorpal Quick Build Kit Overview Video</youtube>
 

===Gamepad Build Video Tutorial (Bare Bones Kit)===
This is a detailed build video for the Bare Bones version of the Gamepad. If you have a Quick Build kit, all of the wiring is already done so you can skip a lot of this video. It is useful for showing how to place the components in the plastic case, which is the same procedure for Quick Build.

IMPORTANT NOTE: The kit was simplified after this video was made, there is no longer any power switch retainer plastic part. The power switch simply snaps into the gamepad housing directly without any screws.

If the video does not play on your device (or you want full screen), go directly to YouTube with this link: [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9ePTrEtEFWI TEACHING TECH GAMEPAD BUILD VIDEO]
 
<youtube>9ePTrEtEFWI|Gamepad Build</youtube>
 

===Hexapod Build Video Tutorial (Bare Bones Kit)===
If the video below does not play on your device (or you want full screen), go directly to YouTube with this link: [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cf1dBCwsE0o&rel=0 TEACHING TECH ROBOT BUILD VIDEO]

IMPORTANT NOTE: This video was made using the "Bare Bones" kit which requires a lot more assembly than the current "Quick Build" kits. It may still be useful for reference, because many of the steps are the same, such as plugging the servo wires into the servo controller. But there is no longer any need to make individual wire connections to the nano, for example, so those parts of the video can be skipped if you have the Quick Build kit.
 
<youtube>cf1dBCwsE0o|Hexapod Build</youtube>
 

==BILL OF MATERIALS (BOM) FOR VORPAL H12 HEXAPOD==
===Notes on Sourcing Parts===
* Full kits of parts as well as individual parts are available on [http://vorpal-robotics-store.myshopify.com The Vorpal Robotics Store]. If you are new to Arduino, wiring, and robotics we strongly recommend you purchase a kit instead of trying to self-source parts. The kits cut 3 to 4 hours off the build time, bringing it to typically 1 to 1.5 hours for Quickbuild kits and 2 to 2.5 hours for Bare Bones kits. The kits have all soldering done, programs are already loaded on the Nanos, Bluetooth modules are properly configured to auto-pair on boot, and you know you have all the right parts to work together.
* These instructions assume you have purchased a kit from us. If you are sourcing your own parts, please be aware of the following additional information:
**If you are sourcing your own parts, you need to build the switch/battery connector assembly. For diagrams see [[Vorpal Combat Hexapod Battery/Switch Construction]].
**Also see important information on that page if you are sourcing your own BEC.
**If you are sourcing your own Bluetooth modules, please be aware that you will need to configure them to auto-pair and to have a UART speed of 38400 BAUD. Every module brand is a bit different so it's not possible for us to give you universal instructions on how to program them. We assume that if you source your own parts you are familiar with how to configure Bluetooth modules using AT-commands.
* IMPORTANT NOTE ON SELF-SOURCED HC05 MODULES: It has come to our attention that some vendors are now selling HC05 modules that have an issue that causes extremely long lag times on transmissions (1.5 to 2 full seconds) due to an unusual way of buffering output. This makes the robot unusable due to nonresponsiveness. Unfortunately there is no visible model number or other information that allows you to tell which ones will have this issue just by looking at the vendor's listing. Please be aware that the HC05 modules we sell are the correct ones that don't have this issue. We are working on software changes that might solve this problem by changing how we pad out our radio packets, however that is considered beta code at this point (it might affect scratch programs). We are actively looking for some way to distinguish the bad modules from the good ones but there are just too many variations of this chip to be sure. In addition, some of the bad modules also have an issue where they overheat. The overheating does not have to do with the 3.3v TR pin, it happens even if a voltage divider is used on TR. We believe that one is just a defect in the circuit board. The bottom line is, yeah, you're getting extra value when you buy parts from us: we stand behind them and we make sure they work with this project.

=== ROBOT BOM ===
[[File:Choking-Hazard-Image.jpg|right|350px]]

* ''Electronics:''
** Passive Piezo Buzzer module and 3 wire cable (see image) [[File:Passive-Piezo-Buzzer-Module.jpg|right|thumb|Passive Piezo Buzzer Module]]
** Arduino Nano, 5V, 16 mHz, ATMEGA328 or similar (marked R in our kit to indicate it is pre-loaded with robot software)
** Rotary potentiometer, 10K Ohms, 6mm shaft diameter, with 3 wires pre-soldered. Also, matching dial cap and nut.
** 1 x HC05 BlueTooth Module with 4 x F-F jumper wires for making connections (Note: the HC05 has six pins but only four are used in this project. Also, this is in the Gamepad Parts bag if you purchase our kit.)
** 1 x Servo Controller module (Adafruit 16-channel 12-bit I2C PWM/Servo driver or Adafruit clone) with F-F jumper wires for making connections, plus 1 two-pin shunt tying V+ to VCC
** 12 x MG90 micro servo motors and associated servo horns (you will only use the single-arm horn). NOTE: If your kit includes O-rings or washers, you will need to use those on the shaft of the hip servos only. These are needed for digital servos only. Many counterfeit servos claim to be digital but are really analog and don't need the washers. For more information see [[Tower Pro MG90S Vs. Clones]].
** 1 x Power distribution wiring with on/off switch, Battery holder for two 18650 cells, 3A 5V BEC, and female connectors to distribute power. If you are self-sourcing see our [[Vorpal The Hexapod Battery/Switch Construction|Circuit Diagrams]].
* ''3D Printed Parts:''
** 1 x Chassis
** 1 x Cap
** 6 x Legs (individually marked with servo numbers)
** 1 x Switch adapter
** 12 x Servo bracket U-shaped halves
** 1 x Electronics Caddy
** 1 x Stand
** 1 x Eye/glasses Decoration
** 1 x Joust game accessory with "rider"
** 1 x Capture the Flag game accessory with flag and cup.
** 1 x Fidget Spinner Challenge game accessory (no Fidget Spinner, just the stand)
** 1 x Ultrasonic Rangefinder Bracket
* ''Miscellaneous:''
** 9 x 10mm diameter pairs of hook and loop self-stick circular dots. These go on the hexapod cap (hook) and accessories like eyes and nameplates (loop).
** 7 x 10mm diameter by 3mm thick ceramic magnet, north pole marked. These are for Capture-the-Flag and Joust accessories. (Note: Not included in Bare Bones kit).
** 12 x socket head cap screw, 2.5mm diameter by 8mm long (for servo horns)
** 3 x #6-32 x 1/2" screw to fasten on/off switch adapter (2) and to hold electronics caddy on chassis (3)
** 2 x #6-32 x 3/4" screw for bottom two holes in accessory port.
** 2 x #6-32 x 1/2" screw for top two holes in the accessory port.
** 4 x #6-32 nuts to hold screws in accessory port.
** 2 x #6-32 wingnuts to attach accessories to accessory port.
** 1 x L shaped hex driver, 2mm, for both kinds of screw used in the kit.

=== GAMEPAD BOM ===
[[File:Choking-Hazard-Image.jpg|right|350px]]
* ''Electronics:''
** 1 x Battery/Switch Wiring Unit with 9v battery clip. (Note: the gamepad requires no BEC so you can use this fact to distinguish from the robot wiring unit)
** 1 x 4x4 button matrix with associated connecting wires. The matrix we use is marked YL-102 in the corner. See the picture. It's blue and has the keys number K1 through K16. You may be able to use others but the pin numbers may differ. [[File:4x4-Matrix.png|right|250px]]
** 1 x Dpad Button module with associated connecting wires. The one we use is marked Keyes_AD_Key and has yellow buttons and a red circuit board. See picture. [[File:Keyes-AD-Key.PNG|right|250px]]
** 1 x HC05 Bluetooth module and four wires to connect it
** 1 x microSD Card Reader module and six wires to connect it, and a microSD card that is compatible with the Arduino SD library. A microSD card is required for record/play features to work. The capacity should be 2 gb or less, either SD or SDHC format. The gamepad can be used to format the card for use by Arduino (hold down W4 while booting the gamepad, count to 10 slowly, release W4).
** 1 x Ardunio Nano, 5V, 16 mHz, ATMEGA328 or similar (marked "G" in our kit to indicate it is pre-loaded with Gamepad software). Note: For MAC users it is far easier to get Scratch to work if the gamepad Nano uses an FTDI serial chip instead of a CHG34X chip. Our kits use the more expensive FTDI version of the Nano in the Gamepad for this reason.
* ''3D Printed Plastic Parts:''
** 1 x Gamepad base plastic part
** 1 x Gamepad top plastic part
** 1 x Gamepad button carrier
** NOTE: Gamepad Base versions before April 2018 also required 1 x Switch Adapter
* ''Fasteners:''
** 4 x #6-32 x 1/2" screw to hold cover on gamepad (4) and also to hold switch adapter on base (2)
** NOTE: Gamepad Base versions before April 2018 also required 2 more of these screws to hold on the switch adapter.

=== Sensors ===
These are included in the Deluxe version of our kit. They're mainly useful for Scratch programming activities.
* 1 x HCSR04 Ultrasonic Rangefinder
* 1 x Analog Light sensor
* 1 x 30cm USB cord type A to mini

==3D Printing the Plastic Parts==

===Obtaining the STL Files===

You can find all the current STL files here: [http://tinyurl.com/VORPALFILES VORPAL FILES]. Go to the STL folder. The Vorpal Hexapod STLs are in the subfolder ROBOT and the gamepad parts are in GAMEPAD. There are subfolders with accessories (such as sensor housings and game pieces).

===Printing Notes and Tips===

This project has been finely tuned to make it easy to 3D print. No supports are required for any of the parts. In some cases you may want to use brims or rafts to help parts adhere to the print surface. There is minimal bridging, never farther than about 15mm (5/8"). Some of the parts do require some flexibility, for example the sides of the servo compartments need to bend outward while the servos are inserted, they then snap back into place when the servo is completely inserted. This means brittle plastics like PLA are not the best choice for this project. (Although we have made PLA hexapods and they do work if you're careful when inserting the servos).

This page assumes you have basic familiarity with 3D printing and 3D printing terminology. If not, you might want to reference online materials such as youtube videos or information from your 3D printer manufacturer before attempting this project.

If you are 3D printing the plastic parts (as opposed to buying them pre-printed), here are some tips.

* MINIMUM PRINTER REQUIREMENTS
** The bed size should be at least 150mm cube (5.9 inches cube). The largest part is the hexapod base so it is the limiting factor on bed size.
** A heated bed is strongly recommended, especially if you are printing in ABS.
* RECOMMENDED PLASTICS
** ABS and PETG both work well. When we sell Full Kits and Assembled Vorpals we use ABS.
** PLA is somewhat brittle, but it will work if you're careful. Inserting the servos into the legs and hips will somewhat flex the plastic so be careful during that process with PLA. Attaching the two halves of the leg hinges together can be more successful in PLA if you first soak the hinges in very hot tap water to soften up the plastic a bit.
* PRINT SETTINGS. We print using the following settings on a Lulzbot TAZ 6 or Lulzbot Mini with 0.5mm nozzle:
** 0.38 layer thickness (or whatever layer thickness is optimal for your printer)
** 1mm walls (i.e. two perimeters)
** 1.14mm top and bottom (i.e. three layers)
** 15% infill
** You can print with thinner layers if your printer does not support 0.38mm layers or if you want a more refined look, it will just take longer.
* BRIMS AND RAFTS
** Brims or rafts are recommended for the following hexapod parts: Base, Legs, Electronics Caddy, Cap. This ensures proper bed retention to avoid warping. These parts have relatively little contact area with the print bed, or have certain sections with little contact.
** Brims/rafts are not recommended on any of the other parts. The other parts generally have enough bed surface contact that they will print fine without brims. Your mileage may vary however and it is recommended that you keep a close eye on the first few layers of the print to make sure everything is sticking properly. If not, you can cancel the job with minimal loss of plastic then restart with brims or rafts.
** We personally prefer brims (such as available in Cura) as they are easy to remove and leave a clean look.
* POST PRINT
**Other than removing brims/rafts and the occasional drip, there is not any special post-processing required after printing.
**However, be very careful to inspect the hemispheres jutting out of one side of each of the servo holders, these need to be as low friction as possible. Inspect for drips and defects. If necessary, use a file or sand paper to smooth them out.

== Building the Robot ==

You will need the following tools:
* 2mm hex key. A 5/64 inch hex key will also work. This is in the Hexapod Parts bag. (NOTE: Some very early kits put this in the Deluxe Parts Bag).
* A marker that can write on dark plastic and still be seen, such as Sharpie Metallic or Sharpie Oil markers (white and yellow work great).
** This is the easiest way to mark servo wires with their corresponding leg number
** If you don't have these types of marker, you could use clear tape and bits of paper to tape wire labels near the socket end of the servo cable. Don't put labels right on the black plastic connectors at the end of the servo because you'll make them too thick to fit side by side when plugged in.
===Servo Pre Check===
Sometimes the servo motor gearbox will get locked up when sitting for a long time, for example during shipping, especially in cold weather. The following procedure will ensure they work properly. (Note: Some MG90S servo bags distributed in the past with our kits say not to turn the servo horn, these instructions supercede that note on the bag).

* Put a one-arm servo horn on each servo. You don't need a screw, just put it on in any random position for now.
* ''Slowly'' and ''gently'' rock the servo horn by hand so it turns. Do not use a lot of force. Note that there is a physical stop that only allows it to turn 180 degrees. If you push in one direction and it won't move, rock it in the other direction.
* As soon as it moves, even just 10 or 20 degrees in either direction, you've confirmed the servo is not locked. Do not leave it at an extreme position where it stops, leave it somewhere around the middle.
If any servo fails to move with modest pressure and a gentle rocking motion, put a mark on that servo, near where the wire comes out. It will most likely unfreeze when power is applied, but you need to keep an eye on it for now.

===Step by Step Instructions===

*'''STEP 1: Insert accessory port screws in the chassis''' Insert 5/8" #6-32 hex head screws in the bottom two holes of the accessory port, head of the screw inside the hexapod, then tighten nuts outside. Repeat for the top two accessory holes with shorter 1/2" #6-32 hex head screws. The heads of the screws recess into hexogonal holes so you don't need to use pliers inside the robot body, just for the nuts. Two wingnuts go on the two lower screws, these will be used to secure accessories such as the Joust lance or Capture-the-Flag attachment.
<gallery mode=packed>
File:Hexhead-Screw.JPG|Be sure to use the hex head screws for the accessory port.
File:Accessory-Port-Diagram-V2.JPG|The accessory port is considered the "front" of the robot.
File:Accessory-Port-Screws.JPG|Longer hex head screws go on the bottom. Do not overtighten the nuts.
File:Wing-Nuts-Installed.JPG|After installing the nuts, put the wingnuts on the bottom screws. They'll be used later to secure accessories.
</gallery>
*'''STEP 2: Insert servos in the chassis.'''
** Next, insert the servo into the chassis as shown in the diagrams below. As you insert the servo into the chassis, slowly press it straight into place until it clicks in under the small tab on one side of the servo holder. Make sure it stays straight as you push down.
** Immediately mark the black connector at the end of the wire to indicate the servo number (which is engraved in the top of the servo holder, a number between 0 and 5).
*** A metallic sharpie pen works very well for this, or a light colored oil paint sharpie such as white.
*** If you don't have any of those things, a little piece of masking tape can be affixed to the wire and marked, or you could use clear cellophane tape to attach little bits of marked paper to the wire. Do not attach any tape or paper to the black connector, as it will be a tight fit when connecting later.
*** The wire coming out of the servo sticks out away from the robot, the servo shaft would face down toward the table top if the chassis were resting on the table.
** After inserting the servo, thread the wire through the top servo wire guide hole, and into the center of the chassis.
[[File:ServoChassisInsert.png|400px|Insert Servo in Chassis]]
[[File:spacerimage.png|100px|Insert Servo in Chassis]]
[[File:ServoHipInserted.png|140px|Insert Servo in Chassis]]
* '''STEP 3: Insert the servos in the Legs.''' The technique is very similar to inserting the servo into the chassis.
**Insert the servo straight into the leg socket so that the wire is coming out of the servo facing away from the plastic leg and the face of the servo with the shaft and servo horn goes into the open faced side of the leg, as shown in the diagram.
**The servos in the legs are called the "knee" servos. Each leg has a higher number on it, this is the knee number, they run from 6 to 11. Again, write this number on the black connector at the end of the servo wire. PRO TIP: For 6 and 9, underline the number so you don't read them upside down!
[[File:Servo-Insert-Leg-v2.png|350px|Insert Servo in Legs]]
[[File:spacerimage.png|100px|Insert Servo in Chassis]]
[[File:Servo-Leg-Inserted-v2.png|350px|Insert Servo in Legs]]
* '''STEP 4: Thread each leg servo wire''' into the bottom wire guide slot on the chassis. Each leg servo should be matched with a hip servo plus 6. The legs are marked with the hip number near the top and the knee number below that. For example, the leg marked 6 should be threaded through the wire guide on hip servo 0, leg 7 goes with hip 1, leg 8 goes with hip 2, etc. Add 6 to the hip number to get the leg number.
* '''STEP 5: Build the electrical system.''' You need to power up the servos and make them seek to the 90 degree position, this will allow you to adjust the legs properly for walking.
** STEP 5A: Take the potentiometer and remove the cap, then unscrew the nut and set these items aside for now. Push the potentiometer shaft from the inside of the chassis, into the hole that has the markings "STOP", "TST", etc. The wires coming out of the potentiometer should be pointing down and you may need to bend them a bit to make it all fit. Put the retaining nut on the potentiometer, hand tighten first and then give it just another half turn or so with pliers if desired. Turn the knob all the way counter clockwise, then insert the knob so it points to the letter "O" in the word "STOP".
** STEP 5B: Find the on/off switch (which is attached to the battery holder assembly). There was a change to how this was installed in October, 2019. The older version requires a "switch adapter," while the new version just uses a slot to feed in the wires. The two sets of diagrams below illustrate both the old and the new way of installing the switch.
New Version Switch Installation:
<gallery mode=packed heights=200>
File:NewSwitchInstall-Step1.jpg|Thread the switch and its wires through the Base, there is an opening under the switch hole.
File:NewSwitchInstall-Step2.jpg|Bring the wires up through the slot below the switch hole.
File:NewSwitchInstall-Step3.jpg|Press the switch into the hole, it should snap into place. The "1" should be on top.
</gallery>
Old Version Switch Installation (before about mid October 2019):
<gallery mode=packed>
File:Assembly-Switch-Bracket-Insertion.JPG|Thread the wires through the gap in the adapter
File:Assembly-Switch-Bracket-Done.JPG|Press the switch into the adapter.
File:Assembly-Switch-Bracket-Insertion-into-Base.JPG|From the inside of the robot, line up the switch/adapter with the switch hole.
File:Assembly-Switch-Bracket-in-Base.JPG|While holding the switch/adapter in place, insert screws from the outside of the robot.
</gallery>
** STEP 5C: If you do not have a "QuickBuild" version of the kit, then make all the connections listed in the ELECTRICAL CONNECTIONS section of these instructions below. Be extremely careful about the power connections. Double check all connections before powering on. If you do have a QuickBuild kit, all the connections are already made for you.
[[File:Servo-Horn-Orientation.png|thumb|right|The servo horn should come straight out from the body at a 90 degree angle as shown here. Do not turn the servo shaft by hand until after it has moved under power!]]
* '''STEP 6: Power up!''' Make sure the on/off switch is off, and the knob is turned to STOP. Insert batteries and power on the robot using the on/off switch. You should hear a beep, a pause, then a second beep. The servos should all twitch into position. If the robot does not move at all, immediately turn the switch off and check your connections again. If some of the servos don't move (especially any you marked during the servo pre-check) then gently push them with power off to see if you can free them up. If they still won't move, try pushing them with power applied, but turn off the power within 30 seconds if they're locked up. If you can't get the servo to move it will need to be replaced.
* '''STEP 7: Insert Servo Horns.''' The servo horns are all at random angles right now due to the servo pre-check. In this step we'll make them point in the right direction. The knee servos are not at 90 degrees when the knob is all the way counter clockwise, rather they are at a 30 degree standing angle. We need to get them to 90 degrees so its easy to align the servo horn. Turn the knob very slightly clockwise and you will see all the knee servos twitch. This is "adjust servo horn mode". All servos (knees and hips) are now at their halfway point, 90 degrees. Now you need to take each single arm servo horn and carefully insert it on the shaft so that it is sticking straight out as shown in the figure. You will not always be able to make the horn come totally straight out. This is because there are only 22 little groves (splines) in each shaft, meaning you can in general only come within about 8 degrees of being at a perfect 90 degree angle. This amount of error is acceptable, just get it as close as you can. It is better for the horn to be a little too much clockwise than to be a little too much counterclockwise, especially for the knees. Do this for all hip and knee servos. Do not insert any screws yet.
[[File:Servo-Bracket-Alignment-v1.png|thumb|350px|right|Align the leg hinges as shown here. The bumps (see arrows) should both be near each other when properly aligned. Hold one in each hand with the ends of the U shape between thumb and forefinger.]]
* '''STEP 8: Assemble the leg hinges'''. Each leg hinge is composed of two identical U-shaped parts. Take one in each hand and align the two so that the bump (shown in the diagram at the right) are both near each other. Turn one 90 degrees with respect to the other.
**Gently squeeze each piece between thumb and forefinger, which causes the little jaws in the center to open up slightly. Work the two halves together. Squeeze just enough so they work their way on, no more or you might break the part!.
**At this stage, you may notice that the parts are loosely clamped on each other. Don't worry! When you place the leg hinges over a servo, the servo will spread it apart and they will lock together tightly.
* '''STEP 9: Attach Leg Hinges.''' The leg hinges connect the hips to the knees. They only go on one way. First place the end that matches the servo horn on, then you need to very slightly bend the U shaped piece while pulling it over the hemispherical bearing on the other side. It's a little easier to do the knees (servos mounted to legs) first, followed by the hips (servos on base).
**NOTE: It should not be excessively difficult to push the hinge over the hemispherical bearing. If you find you are struggling, that means the hinges are too tight. This may affect walking. This can be due to the kind of plastic you used or how your printer is adjusted. You may need to gently spread the two legs of the U shape by hand before putting the hinge on the robot. Be careful of course not to break the hinge.
* '''STEP 10: Test Knee Positions.''' Turn the knob fully counter clockwise (to STOP) and the robot will go into "stand still" mode. Place it on a level surface such as a table top. Do all of the legs touch the ground? If one or more legs don't touch the ground, you need to adjust the servo horn on the knee a little bit so it does touch. Gently pull off the servo bracket. Pull the servo horn off, and put it back on just a little bit moved so the leg would move closer to the ground. Put the servo bracket back on, and see how it looks. Do this until all legs are at least slightly touching the ground. Again, you can't necessarily be perfect due to the 8 degree increments the servo horns can be moved. But you should be able to be close enough that all legs at least slightly touch the ground.
* '''STEP 11: Insert Servo Screws.''' Now that the legs are adjusted, you can insert the M2.5x8 screws into the servo horns to lock them in place. Note that you will NOT be using the screws that were in the little bag the servos came in, you'll be using the separate pack of screws, which are longer than the ones in the servo bag. Do not overtighten these screws, as you could possibly crack the servo brackets. Just turn the screws until you start to feel resistance, then turn a quarter turn more and stop.
* '''STEP 12: Test Individual Servos.''' To test whether every servo is working, put the robot on its stand. Then start with the knob on STOP, then slowly turn it clockwise. First the servos will go into adjust mode, you used that a moment ago to set the servo horns. But, keep going, and the robot will go into "individual servo test mode". In this mode, every hip servo will move, one by one. When all the hips have moved, every leg will move, one by one. You should see every servo move, in order. If some don't move, check your connections. A common error is to plug a servo connector into the servo controller backwards (i.e. the brown wire is matched with the yellow pin instead of the black pin).
{| class="wikitable" align=right style="float:right; background:transparent; margin: {{{margins|1em 1em 1em 1em}}}; {{{style|}}}"
|-
| <youtube>5T7E1IqHxNc|Electronics Caddy Tutorial</youtube>
|}
* '''STEP 13: Test Using Demo Mode.''' Ok, everything looks good, so time for a full test. Turn the knob to STOP, then take the robot off the stand and put it on the floor. Turn the knob to DEMO, and the robot will go through a series of movements to demonstrate some of the things it can do. The full demo only takes about 30 seconds, then repeats. Here, you are looking for the robot to, for example, be able to get back up off the floor after doing some of its dance moves. If the robot struggles to get off the floor, you may have a battery that is not fully charged, or there may be too much friction between the servo bracket and the little ball socket it sits in. A tiny bit of silicone lubricant will usually fix that problem, or just make sure those parts are cleaned up from 3D printing and don't have an excess strands of material that are causing friction. See the [[Vorpal Combat_Hexapod Troubleshooting Guide|Trouble Shooting Guide]] for more information about different kinds of issues that can occur.
* '''STEP 14: Store the Electronics in the Caddy''' Now things look pretty messy with all those wires hanging loose, let's clean it up by stowing them in the electronics caddy. Please reference the video and diagrams here for quick instructions.
** '''STEP 14A: Insert Caddy Bars''' Insert the two electronics caddy bars as shown in the diagrams below. Notice carefully how they are inserted. You may need to slightly squeeze the forked section at the end to work it into the hole. Once inside, it may be difficult to remove because it will snap into place, so be sure you're putting it in the right way.
<gallery mode=packed>
File:Electronics-Caddy-Insert-Bar.JPG|Here one bar has already been inserted, the other is being put into place. Notice the orientation, don't put it in upside down. The little nubs at the end should be facing the caddy.
</gallery>
** '''STEP 14B: Insert the Servo Controller and Arduino Nano''' The diagrams here do not show the wires to make them easier to visualize. Carefully insert the servo controller as shown, making sure you don't pull out any of the wires. You may need to wiggle the electronics caddy bar from side to side a bit so that components can slide past it during insertion. Notice that the end of the Servo controller with wires sticking out of it must go in last. Carefully insert the Arduino Nano as shown, making sure you don't pull out any of the wires. You may need to wiggle the electronics caddy bar from side to side a bit so that components can slide past it during insertion. Notice that the end of the Nano that has the USB port must go in last.
<gallery mode=packed>
File:Electronics-Caddy-Insert-ServoController.JPG|Insert the servo controller so it is sandwiched between the bar and the electronics caddy. Wires not shown for clarity.
File:Electronics-Caddy-Insert-Nano.JPG|Insert the Nano so that the USB port faces out away from the electronics caddy, this allows you to access it without disassembling the robot.
File:Electronics-Caddy-Assembled-Underside.JPG|This is what the underside of the electronics caddy looks like after inserting the Servo Controller and Arduino Nano. Wires not shown for clarity.
</gallery>
** '''STEP 14C: Insert the HC05 Bluetooth Module''' The diagrams here do not show the wires to make them easier to visualize. The HC05 Bluetooth module with a name beginning with "S" should be used for the robot. For example, the label will read something like "VORP S2944" (the number will differ). The one marked "M" will be used for the gamepad. Slide the HC05 into the side drawer as shown. When inserting, be careful not to pull out the wires, which will be a little tight. Work the wires into the little space provided so they stay clear of the robot's cap when it gets screwed on later.
<gallery mode=packed>
File:Electronics-Caddy-Insert-HC05.JPG|Insert the HC05 into the side drawer as shown.
File:Electronics-Caddy-Assembled-HC05.JPG|When fully inserted, the indicator light will still be visible through the small oval. The wires should be tucked into the little cavity near the pins of the HC05.
</gallery>
* '''STEP 15: Assemble the Cap'''
** '''STEP 15A: Put hook-and-loop dots in the Cap''' Insert a "hook" circular self-stick dot in each of the 10mm circular holder areas in the cap. Do not use the fuzzy "loop" side of the hook-and-loop pair, use the "hook" side of the pair. Press firmly so the glue backing sticks firmly to the plastic. NOTE: Older versions of this project used magnets on the cap and eye decorations. If you are assembling an older version, press the magnet into the cap firmly (you may need to use pliers) and make sure the marked face (north pole) is showing. On accessories like eyes, make sure the unmarked face (south pole) is showing.
** '''STEP 15B: Decorate''' If desired, use a permanent marker to color the Vorpal "V" on top of the Cap. Oil markers work well. On light colors of plastic a black permanent marker will also work.
** '''STEP 15C: Put Cap on the Hexapod''' Screw the cap on the robot by lining up the tabs with the matching slots in the rim of the base. Turn the cap clockwise to lock it in place. IMPORTANT: Do not press down on the robot to insert the cap when the robot is under power standing on its legs! You can damage the leg motors by doing this. It is best to turn the robot off, and either support the bottom of the Base with one hand and press the Cap on with the other, or set the Base down on the table top or floor with legs out to the sides so they don't take pressure.
* '''STEP 16: Bounce Pads''' There is a foam pad with a peel-off self-sticking side. This goes on the bottom of the robot. It allows dance moves that slam the robot to the floor to be safe for the robot's parts.
<gallery mode=packed>
File:Robot-Foam-Installation.JPG|Peel off the paper and stick the foam on the bottom of the robot.
</gallery>
* '''STEP 17: Warning Label''' There are two a self-stick choking hazard warning labels in the hexapod parts bag. Peel the backing off one of them and place it on the bottom of the robot, near the center of the foam. Retain the second label for the gamepad.

== Building the Gamepad ==
[[File:Gamepad-Overall-Assembly-Exploded.png|thumb|600px|right|Gamepad order of parts during assembly (wires not shown for clarity).]]
To go beyond demo mode, you need to build the Vorpal Gamepad. The Vorpal Gamepad allows you to call up many different actions by the hexapod such as walking, turning, dancing, or fighting. The gamepad can also be used as a transmitter to allow Scratch programs to wirelessly control your robot from a computer.

=== Part 1: Gamepad Electrical System (Skip if using a QuickBuild kit) ===

If you DO NOT have a "QuickBuild" version of our kit, then you must first assemble the electrical components of the gamepad as follows. Please SKIP this entire section if you have a QuickBuild version of our kit, and proceed to Part 2.

* '''STEP 1: Attach cables to the button matrix.''' Pull 8 wires off the Dupont wire bundle. The colors don't really matter so just take 8 adjacent wires and leave them together if possible. Carefully push these 8 wires, in order, onto the pins coming out of the 4x4 button matrix. Make sure the wire connectors don't "swap places" by twisting under each other, it is very important that the order be correct.
[[File:Gamepad-Electronics-Layout.png|thumb|right|400 px|Layout of Electronic Boards. Left to right: Arduino Nano, HC05 Bluetooth Module, and SD Card reader. (wires are left out of diagram for clarity)]]

* '''STEP 2: Attach cables to the yellow D-PAD buttons.''' Pull three wires off the Dupont wire bundle of the following colors: red, black, white. Plug the white wire into the yellow D-PAD button module's pin marked OUT (output). The middle pin marked VCC gets the red wire, and the pin marked GND gets the black wire.

* '''STEP 3: Connect the electrical system wires.''' Using the connections indicated in the section below on electrical wiring, plug in all the wires for the Arduino Nano, HC05 Bluetooth module, SD Card Reader, and button modules.

=== Part 2: Inserting Gamepad Components into Plastic Base ===

* '''STEP 1: Install the switch.'''
** If you printed version V1R8c or later, or you received printed parts from us in or after April, 2018: Gamepad Base designs before April, 2018 required a switch adapter to be installed in a similar way to the hexapod robot Base, however that was eliminated in version V1R8c of the Gamepad. With the new design you just leave the switch hanging out of the switch hole on the back of the base until you screw on the top of the gamepad, then you press fit the switch into the resulting rectangular hole.
** If you printed gamepad Base versions earlier than V1r8c or you received printed parts from us before April, 2018: Take the switch/battery assembly and use two #6-32 screws 1/2" long to attach it on the inside wall of the gamepad base, in the rectangular hole. The switch itself is sandwiched between the gamepad wall and a switch adapter (the same switch adapter model used for the robot is used for the gamepad, you need to print two of them). DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN THE SCREWS.

* ''' STEP 2: Place the buttons''' Place the 4x4 button matrix and also the yellow D-PAD button module in the matching places on the button bracket. The yellow D-PAD buttons should be placed down first, and you may need to slightly bend the pins downward. The 4x4 button matrix also should have its pins slightly bent downward, then its wires will go on top of the wires coming out of the yellow D-PAD button module.
**NOTE: The yellow caps on the D-PAD buttons are optional. We normally remove these because we have found that in demo situations some people, especially young children, will press the yellow buttons so hard that they dislodge the caps. They will press right back on, it's not a problem really, however they may think they broke the controller. We feel it's better just to take them off.

* '''STEP 3: Insert the Arduino Nano.''' The Arduino Nano should be oriented such that its USB port is coming out the square hole on the left side of the base, and all the outgoing wires from the Nano are coming out toward the front of the base. Once in place, gently push the side of the Nano opposite of the USB port until it clicks into place, securing it.

* ''' STEP 4: Insert the HC05 Bluetooth Module.''' Slip the HC05 Bluetooth module under the U shaped bracket near the center of the gamepad base. Its lights should be facing upward, they will be visible through holes in the top of the gamepad and this helps you know that the gamepad is turned on.

* '''STEP 5: Put it all together.''' Put the 9v battery clip inside the battery box area of the base. Place the button bracket on top of the base, then place the gamepad top on the button bracket, sandwiching the button modules in place. Align the four screw holes in the corners with the matching holes on the base and secure with four #6-32 screws 1/2" long. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN. NOTE: You might want to just put two screws in, and don't even put them all the way in, until you test the gamepad. In that way, if it does not work, you can easily open it back up to check connections.

'''STEP 6: Detect D-PAD Style''' Turn the gamepad's switch to the OFF (0) position, then insert a charged 9v battery. Hold down the top button on the D-PAD module (the one above the grouping of four directional buttons). While still holding this button, turn the switch to the ON (1) position, you should see lights come on inside the gamepad. Count slowly to ten, then release the D-PAD button. This procedure causes the gamepad to detect what kind of D-PAD is being used so that it may interpret the button presses correctly. You only need to do this once (or after swapping in a new D-PAD module, for example after a repair). The setting is stored in nonvolatile EEPROM on the gamepad's Arduino Nano.

* '''STEP 7: Test!''' Turn the switch to "0" (off). Connect a 9v battery to the 9v battery clip then slide the battery door onto the base. Turn the switch to "1" (on). Lights should be visible through the holes. Turn the hexapod's dial all the way clockwise, to "RC" thus putting it in Bluetooth mode. Turn the hexapod on and wait a few seconds for it to completely boot. Try to control the robot! Try hitting each of the top three rows of 4x4 matrix buttons (W, F, D) one by one, and test to make sure every mode functions. If most modes work but a couple do not, you may have swapped some wires coming off the matrix.

* '''STEP 8: Decorate''' If desired, use a marker to darken the Vorpal "V" symbol, the W, F, D, R markings, the 0 and 1 switch markings, and the record/play symbols under the 4x4 button matrix. This will make them more visible as well as making the gamepad look nicer. We like using oil based paint markers. For dark colored plastics, use a white oil paint marker, for light colored plastics use black, blue, or red to contrast with the plastic color.

'''STEP 9: Warning Label''' There were two a self-stick choking hazard warning labels in the hexapod parts bag. You used one for the robot. Peel the backing off the other and place it on the bottom of the gamepad, being sure not to interfere with the battery drawer.

= Trimming the Servos =
When you assembled the servo horns onto the servos, you probably were not able to get them all to come out exactly at a 90 degree angle. That's not your fault: the servo horns only have 22 possible positions in which they can be installed, so at best you can come within plus or minus 8 degrees of perfection.

Now that you have the gamepad working, you can make fine adjustments to the servo positions using "Trim Mode". In this special gamepad mode, you can adjust all the servos. These adjustments are saved in the robot's EEPROM, which is memory on the Nano that retains data even when powered off. So, you only need to trim once.

Complete instructions on how to use trim mode are in the wiki page: [[Vorpal The Hexapod Trim Mode Guide]].

NOTE: although this step is optional, it is recommended because your robot will walk straighter and all the servos will share equally in lifting the robot's weight, which will make them last longer.

=Assembling Game Accessories and Nameplates=
Most of the accessory pieces require no assembly, or just require press fitting magnets into round holes or attaching self-stick velcro.

When inserting magnets, the rule is: anything that attaches to the robot via the accessory port screws should have the dimpled side of the magnet ''showing'', and anything that is supposed to attach to the robot or a screwed-on accessory should have the dimple side ''down, not showing''.

Based on this rule, the dimpled side of the magnet should '''not''' show for these items:
* Flag
* Joust Rider
* Name plate

And the dimple ''should'' be showing for these items:
* Capture the Flag Arm
* Joust Lance

==Assembling Sensors==
The light sensor and ultrasonic rangefinder sensor can be assembled with two screws each. The sensor module is sandwiched in between two plastic pieces. These screws are in the Deluxe Parts Bag. The screws will self-thread into the plastic. Do not overtighten or you will strip the plastic and the screws won't hold. When the screw head is all the way down, stop turning.

The ultrasonic rangefinder sensor attaches to the accessory port screws.

The light sensor wedges into one of the slotted holes in the cap.
==Electrical Connections: Robot==

NOTE: If you have a QuickBuild version of our kit, this information is for reference only. All the connections are already made in QuickBuild kits. This information might still be useful if you are an advanced user who may want to add new electrical components or modify the system.

===NOTES ON JUMPER WIRES===

This section is for self-source builders and Bare Bones Kit builders. Quickbuild kits are pre-wired and electrical systems are fully tested, so you can skip this section if you have a Quickbuild kit.

====Wire Lengths====
There are two different lengths of female-female Dupont jumper wires used to make most connections. The longer ones (20cm) are only used for the Hexapod's accessory port connections. The shorter ones are used for all the connections on the Gamepad and all the connections on the Hexapod between the Arduino Nano, Servo controller and Bluetooth module.

====Wire Color Conventions====

Please follow these conventions when selecting wire colors:
* For +5V, Vin, and similar positive voltage connections, use either RED or ORANGE.
* For GND and other negative electrical connections, use BLACK or BROWN.
* For the connectors that sit at the mouth of the accessory port (used for optional sensors) colors are suggested below in the instructions. By following these suggestions you will make your life easier when connecting sensors!
* For all other connections, you can use any color you want, it's arbitrary.

====If Jumper Wires Are Too Loose====
Sometimes you will find a wire whose connector does not grip the pin well enough. It might fall off very easily or just by gravity alone. If that happens, you have a few options:
* There are extra wires in your kit. If you find a wire that's too loose, just use a different wire.
* Using the hex key, you can put the jumper housing on a flat surface then press on the metal showing through the plastic connector, which will tighten up the jumper wire's grip. Don't go too overboard on pressing though or you might make it too hard to insert.
* Alternatively, you could use electrical tape after inserting all the wires on a module (such as the Nano) to effectively attach together all the little plastic female connector housings. In that way, the connectors that do grip will help hold in the ones that are too loose. Some people also like using hot glue for this purpose. (Personally, I don't like using hot glue, as it makes it harder to change connections if you hooked something up incorrectly.)

===NANO PIN CONNECTIONS (Bare Bones Kit/Reference)===
NOTE: If you are using our Quickbuild kit, this information is for reference only. Quickbuild kit wiring is already completed and tested.

[[File:Hexapod-Nano-Diagram.JPG|thumb|600px|right|Diagram of Nano connections for the Hexapod. Jumpers marked AP are routed to the Accessory Port for use with add-ons like sensors. Click for larger image.]]
* ''Digital IO Pins:''
** D0, D1 are reserved because they are used for uploading programs to the robot, so nothing will be connected there.
** D2 Bluetooth Module Rx
** D3 Bluetooth Module Tx
** D4 Buzzer Signal (white wire)
** D5, D6 NO CONNECTION. These pins are reserved for future expansion.
** D7 20cm GREEN Dupont connector routed to accessory port, used for Ultrasonic Rangefinder TRIG
** D8 20cm BLUE Dupont connector routed to accessory port, used for Ultrasonic Rangefinder ECHO
** D9 No connection. This pin is reserved for future expansion.
** D10 through D13 are reserved for the optional CMUCAM5 (Pixie) sensor accessory.

* ''Analog Pins:''
** A0 Potentiometer signal (white wire)
** A1 Potentiometer Power (red wire)
** A2 Potentiometer Ground (black wire)
** A3 20cm YELLOW Dupont connector routed to the accessory port, for the optional light sensor or other analog sensors.
** A4 Servo Controller SDA
** A5 Servo Controller SCL
** A6 20cm PURPLE Dupont connector, routed to the accessory port, for any analog sensor you wish to optionally add later.
** A7 No connection, reserved for future use.

* ''Power Pins:''
** VIN pin on Nano connects to Battery positive (the red Dupont connector coming off near the switch on the wiring module)
** GND pin on Nano connects to Battery negative (the black Dupont connector coming off the battery black wire)
** Second GND pin on Nano (there are two GND pins on the Nano) connects to the GND pin on the HC05 module
** +5V on Nano connects to HC05 +5V Pin

IMPORTANT NOTE: The red Dupont connector coming off the switch/battery assembly must go to VIN and never +5V, because the battery voltage is much higher than +5 volts. You will more or less instantly destroy your Nano if you put unregulated battery power directly into the +5V pin. The VIN pin has its own voltage regulator. The +5V pin on the Nano will be used to provide regulated power to the Bluetooth module.

=== Bluetooth Module Power (Bare Bones Kit/Reference)===
* +5V on HC05 connects to Nano +5V pin
* GND on HC05 connects to either of the two Nano GND pins

=== Buzzer Power (Bare Bones Kit/Reference)===
* Connect the buzzer V+ and ground (marked "-") pins (red and black respectively) to Port 13 of the Servo Controller, matching black and red wires to black and red pins on the Servo Controller. You will be using the special three wire cable provided for this purpose. It has a three-pin connector one one side, and the other side has a two-pin connector and a one-pin connector. The one-pin connector goes to the Nano and provides the signal to drive the buzzer. The two-pin connector is plugged into Servo Controller Port 13.

=== Servo Controller ===
[[File:ServoController-Pin-Labels.JPG|thumb|600px|right|Diagram of Servo Controller pins you will use in this project. Each servo motor has a 3 wire connector. Match the brown servo wire with the black color coded pin in its servo port, match the yellow wire with the yellow pin. Click for larger image.]]
* Connect the 12 servos to port numbers corresponding to the servo marking (0 to 11). Make sure the signal wire (yellow) is oriented correctly and matches the yellow plastic header pin.
* Connect the switch/battery module regulated BEC output (a three pin Dupont connector where only two of the pins are populated, one with a red V+ wire, one with a black ground wire) to servo controller port 12 power and ground. Make sure the RED wire is going to VCC (red pin) and the BLACK wire goes to GND (black pin).
* On one short side of the Servo Controller you will find a VCC and V+ pin right next to each other. Use a shunt (small black connector that goes over two pins) to connect those together if one is not already installed. This shunt causes both the servos and the microprocessor to run at the same +5V level.
* SDA and SCL go to A4 and A5 on the Nano, respectively.
* Servo port 12 RED and BLACK pins are connected to the output of the BEC. Make sure the BEC RED wire matches with the RED pin, and the BEC BALCK wire matches with the BLACK pin.
* Servo port 13 RED and BLACK pins are connected to the passive buzzer power connector. Make sure the buzzer BLACK wire matches the BLACK pin, and the RED wire matches the RED pin.
* Servo port 14 RED pin goes to a 20cm ORANGE Dupont connector and is routed to the accessory port to provide +5V for sensors or other accessories.
* Servo port 14 BLACK pin goes to a 20cm BROWN Dupont connector and is routed to the accessory port to provide GND for sensors or other accessories.
* Servo port 15 RED terminal goes to a 20cm RED Dupont connector and is routed to the accessory port to provide +5V for sensors or other accessories.
* Servo port 15 BLACK terminal goes to 20cm BLACK Dupont connector and is routed to the accessory port to provide ground for sensors or other accessories.
* Servo port 15 signal terminal goes to 20cm WHITE Dupont connector and is routed to the accessory port to provide signal for a servo used in an optional accessory.

===Accessory Port Wire Bundle===
The 20cm wires connected to the Nano and Servo Controller provide access to digital ports, analog ports, and power for accessories such as sensors, lights, or other projects. These wires should be bundled up near their unconnected ends (a rubber band works well for keeping them all together) and routed to the large opening below the accessory port hex head screws on the chassis. When there is no accessory in use, these wires can remain tucked inside the accessory port. When needed, pull them out a few inches and connect to sensors or other electrical accessories.

=== Connecting the HC-SR04 Ultrasonic Rangefinder to the Accessory Port ===
When building the robot you routed longer jumper wires (20cm) to the accessory port. You need four of these wires to use the Ultrasonic Rangefinder:

* RED accessory port wire goes to HC-SR04 VCC
* BLACK accessory port wire goes to HC-SR04 GND
* GREEN accessor port wire goes to HC-SR04 TRIG
* BLUE accessory port wire goes to HC-SR04 ECHO

The Scratch block assumes you've used this setup.

=== Connecting the Light Sensor (or any Arduino compatible 5 volt analog sensor) ===
* RED or ORANGE accessory port wire goes to the center pin, which is usually unmarked (may also be marked +5V, Vcc or Vin) on the sensor
* BLACK or BROWN accessory port wire goes to the ground pin on the sensor, which is usually marked with a minus sign (-) or may be marked GND or G.
* YELLOW (A3) accessory port wire goes to the Signal pin on the sensor. This is often marked (S) but on some sensors may have other markings.
** You may also use PURPLE (A6) for a sensor (or a second sensor)
** The Scratch Sensor block allows you to choose A3 (YELLOW) or A6 (PURPLE) sensor ports.

=== A note on how many things can be connected through the accessory port===
We are providing two sets of power connectors at the accessory port for sensors or other accessories. RED/BLACK and ORANGE/BROWN each respectively provide +5V/GND. It's up to you what things you want to connect using these. You could have one or two sensors, you could have a sensor and some kind off motorized accessory. You could have a sensor and an LED light strip, etc.

Nothing is stopping you from creating a Y connector to make additional power connections, except that there is a limit of 3 amps of current that you can pull from the battery/BEC system. The robot itself needs up to 2.5 amps during fast motions. But many sensors can operate on just a few milliamps. Adding a motorized accessory is where you would need to be careful about how much current you're pulling from the system. If you pull too much current, typically the BEC will overheat and go into thermal protection mode, which will shut down all the motors until you reboot the robot. It is possible to use a mini servo under moderate load for a motorized accessory, but a full sized servo under heavy load might be too much. Use caution when designing your own accessories, especially if they are going to use more than a few hundred milliamps of current.

=== Robot Screw Sizes ===
* Servo horn screws: 12 x M2.5 by 8mm long
* Switch assembly: 2 x #6-32 by 1/2" long

==Electrical Connectons: Gamepad==
NOTE: If you have a QuickBuild version of our kit, this information is for reference only. All the connections are already made in QuickBuild kits. This information might still be useful if you are an advanced user who may want to add new electrical components or modify the system.

=== GAMEPAD NANO PIN CONNECTIONS ===
[[File:Gamepad-Nano-Diagram-v3.JPG|thumb|600px|right|Diagram of Nano connections for the Gamepad. Click for larger image.]]
* D2 through D9 are connected to the button matrix pins.Looking from the top of the button matrix module, the rightmost button matrix pin (labeled 1) goes to D9, second to right (labeled 2) to D8, etc.
* D10 to SD card CS (may be labelled SS on some SD card readers)
* D11 to SD card MOSI
* D12 to SD card MISO
* D13 to SD card SCK (may be labelled SCL on some SD card readers)

* A0 Unused
* A1 Dpad OUT (white wire)
* A2 Dpad VCC (red wire)
* A3 Dpad GND (black wire)
* A4 HC05 Bluetooth Module Rx
* A5 HC05 Bluetooth Module Tx
* A6, A7 Unused

* VIN battery/switch positive (red wire)
* GND Either ground on the Nano goes to the battery/switch negative (black wire)
* ICSP pin 4 (see diagram): SD card reader GND. Note: Quickbuild kits do not use this, there's an extra GND wire soldered into the circuit for the SD card reader.
* ICSP pin 6 (see diagram): SD card reader VCC. Note: Quickbuild kits do not use this, there's an extra +5V wire soldered into the circuit for the SD card reader.
* Nano +5V pin goes to HC05 +5V pin
* Nano GND pin (there are two, you can use either one) goes to HCO5 GND pin

=== GAMEPAD: Screw Sizes ===

* Gamepad Cover, 4 x #6-32 by 1/2" long
* For kits prior to October 2019: switch adapter assembly, 2 x #6-32 by 1/2" long

{{Vorpal Quick Links}}

Vorpal The Hexapod Assembly Instructions

2022-04-08T12:37:12Z

Vorpalwiki: /* Bluetooth Module Power */

{{float_box|{{VCH Quick Links}} }}
==VIDEO BUILD INSTRUCTIONS==
Besides the printed instructions further down on this page, we have two great video build tutorials created by Teaching Tech, a great YouTube channel. Please consider subscribing to "Teaching Tech," as they have great 3d printing related videos.
The printed instructions are diagrams may still be helpful in conjunction with these videos.

===Fast Overview of Quick Build Kit Assembly===
This is an overview video showing the general build procedure in just a few minutes.
If the video does not play on your device (or you want full screen), go directly to YouTube with this link: [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SynKUki6sd8 Vorpal Quick Build Overview Video]
 
<youtube>SynKUki6sd8|Vorpal Quick Build Kit Overview Video</youtube>
 

===Gamepad Build Video Tutorial (Bare Bones Kit)===
This is a detailed build video for the Bare Bones version of the Gamepad. If you have a Quick Build kit, all of the wiring is already done so you can skip a lot of this video. It is useful for showing how to place the components in the plastic case, which is the same procedure for Quick Build.

IMPORTANT NOTE: The kit was simplified after this video was made, there is no longer any power switch retainer plastic part. The power switch simply snaps into the gamepad housing directly without any screws.

If the video does not play on your device (or you want full screen), go directly to YouTube with this link: [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9ePTrEtEFWI TEACHING TECH GAMEPAD BUILD VIDEO]
 
<youtube>9ePTrEtEFWI|Gamepad Build</youtube>
 

===Hexapod Build Video Tutorial (Bare Bones Kit)===
If the video below does not play on your device (or you want full screen), go directly to YouTube with this link: [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cf1dBCwsE0o&rel=0 TEACHING TECH ROBOT BUILD VIDEO]

IMPORTANT NOTE: This video was made using the "Bare Bones" kit which requires a lot more assembly than the current "Quick Build" kits. It may still be useful for reference, because many of the steps are the same, such as plugging the servo wires into the servo controller. But there is no longer any need to make individual wire connections to the nano, for example, so those parts of the video can be skipped if you have the Quick Build kit.
 
<youtube>cf1dBCwsE0o|Hexapod Build</youtube>
 

==BILL OF MATERIALS (BOM) FOR VORPAL H12 HEXAPOD==
===Notes on Sourcing Parts===
* Full kits of parts as well as individual parts are available on [http://vorpal-robotics-store.myshopify.com The Vorpal Robotics Store]. If you are new to Arduino, wiring, and robotics we strongly recommend you purchase a kit instead of trying to self-source parts. The kits cut 3 to 4 hours off the build time, bringing it to typically 1 to 1.5 hours for Quickbuild kits and 2 to 2.5 hours for Bare Bones kits. The kits have all soldering done, programs are already loaded on the Nanos, Bluetooth modules are properly configured to auto-pair on boot, and you know you have all the right parts to work together.
* These instructions assume you have purchased a kit from us. If you are sourcing your own parts, please be aware of the following additional information:
**If you are sourcing your own parts, you need to build the switch/battery connector assembly. For diagrams see [[Vorpal Combat Hexapod Battery/Switch Construction]].
**Also see important information on that page if you are sourcing your own BEC.
**If you are sourcing your own Bluetooth modules, please be aware that you will need to configure them to auto-pair and to have a UART speed of 38400 BAUD. Every module brand is a bit different so it's not possible for us to give you universal instructions on how to program them. We assume that if you source your own parts you are familiar with how to configure Bluetooth modules using AT-commands.
* IMPORTANT NOTE ON SELF-SOURCED HC05 MODULES: It has come to our attention that some vendors are now selling HC05 modules that have an issue that causes extremely long lag times on transmissions (1.5 to 2 full seconds) due to an unusual way of buffering output. This makes the robot unusable due to nonresponsiveness. Unfortunately there is no visible model number or other information that allows you to tell which ones will have this issue just by looking at the vendor's listing. Please be aware that the HC05 modules we sell are the correct ones that don't have this issue. We are working on software changes that might solve this problem by changing how we pad out our radio packets, however that is considered beta code at this point (it might affect scratch programs). We are actively looking for some way to distinguish the bad modules from the good ones but there are just too many variations of this chip to be sure. In addition, some of the bad modules also have an issue where they overheat. The overheating does not have to do with the 3.3v TR pin, it happens even if a voltage divider is used on TR. We believe that one is just a defect in the circuit board. The bottom line is, yeah, you're getting extra value when you buy parts from us: we stand behind them and we make sure they work with this project.

=== ROBOT BOM ===
[[File:Choking-Hazard-Image.jpg|right|350px]]

* ''Electronics:''
** Passive Piezo Buzzer module and 3 wire cable (see image) [[File:Passive-Piezo-Buzzer-Module.jpg|right|thumb|Passive Piezo Buzzer Module]]
** Arduino Nano, 5V, 16 mHz, ATMEGA328 or similar (marked R in our kit to indicate it is pre-loaded with robot software)
** Rotary potentiometer, 10K Ohms, 6mm shaft diameter, with 3 wires pre-soldered. Also, matching dial cap and nut.
** 1 x HC05 BlueTooth Module with 4 x F-F jumper wires for making connections (Note: the HC05 has six pins but only four are used in this project. Also, this is in the Gamepad Parts bag if you purchase our kit.)
** 1 x Servo Controller module (Adafruit 16-channel 12-bit I2C PWM/Servo driver or Adafruit clone) with F-F jumper wires for making connections, plus 1 two-pin shunt tying V+ to VCC
** 12 x MG90 micro servo motors and associated servo horns (you will only use the single-arm horn). NOTE: If your kit includes O-rings or washers, you will need to use those on the shaft of the hip servos only. These are needed for digital servos only. Many counterfeit servos claim to be digital but are really analog and don't need the washers. For more information see [[Tower Pro MG90S Vs. Clones]].
** 1 x Power distribution wiring with on/off switch, Battery holder for two 18650 cells, 3A 5V BEC, and female connectors to distribute power. If you are self-sourcing see our [[Vorpal The Hexapod Battery/Switch Construction|Circuit Diagrams]].
* ''3D Printed Parts:''
** 1 x Chassis
** 1 x Cap
** 6 x Legs (individually marked with servo numbers)
** 1 x Switch adapter
** 12 x Servo bracket U-shaped halves
** 1 x Electronics Caddy
** 1 x Stand
** 1 x Eye/glasses Decoration
** 1 x Joust game accessory with "rider"
** 1 x Capture the Flag game accessory with flag and cup.
** 1 x Fidget Spinner Challenge game accessory (no Fidget Spinner, just the stand)
** 1 x Ultrasonic Rangefinder Bracket
* ''Miscellaneous:''
** 9 x 10mm diameter pairs of hook and loop self-stick circular dots. These go on the hexapod cap (hook) and accessories like eyes and nameplates (loop).
** 7 x 10mm diameter by 3mm thick ceramic magnet, north pole marked. These are for Capture-the-Flag and Joust accessories. (Note: Not included in Bare Bones kit).
** 12 x socket head cap screw, 2.5mm diameter by 8mm long (for servo horns)
** 3 x #6-32 x 1/2" screw to fasten on/off switch adapter (2) and to hold electronics caddy on chassis (3)
** 2 x #6-32 x 3/4" screw for bottom two holes in accessory port.
** 2 x #6-32 x 1/2" screw for top two holes in the accessory port.
** 4 x #6-32 nuts to hold screws in accessory port.
** 2 x #6-32 wingnuts to attach accessories to accessory port.
** 1 x L shaped hex driver, 2mm, for both kinds of screw used in the kit.

=== GAMEPAD BOM ===
[[File:Choking-Hazard-Image.jpg|right|350px]]
* ''Electronics:''
** 1 x Battery/Switch Wiring Unit with 9v battery clip. (Note: the gamepad requires no BEC so you can use this fact to distinguish from the robot wiring unit)
** 1 x 4x4 button matrix with associated connecting wires. The matrix we use is marked YL-102 in the corner. See the picture. It's blue and has the keys number K1 through K16. You may be able to use others but the pin numbers may differ. [[File:4x4-Matrix.png|right|250px]]
** 1 x Dpad Button module with associated connecting wires. The one we use is marked Keyes_AD_Key and has yellow buttons and a red circuit board. See picture. [[File:Keyes-AD-Key.PNG|right|250px]]
** 1 x HC05 Bluetooth module and four wires to connect it
** 1 x microSD Card Reader module and six wires to connect it, and a microSD card that is compatible with the Arduino SD library. A microSD card is required for record/play features to work. The capacity should be 2 gb or less, either SD or SDHC format. The gamepad can be used to format the card for use by Arduino (hold down W4 while booting the gamepad, count to 10 slowly, release W4).
** 1 x Ardunio Nano, 5V, 16 mHz, ATMEGA328 or similar (marked "G" in our kit to indicate it is pre-loaded with Gamepad software). Note: For MAC users it is far easier to get Scratch to work if the gamepad Nano uses an FTDI serial chip instead of a CHG34X chip. Our kits use the more expensive FTDI version of the Nano in the Gamepad for this reason.
* ''3D Printed Plastic Parts:''
** 1 x Gamepad base plastic part
** 1 x Gamepad top plastic part
** 1 x Gamepad button carrier
** NOTE: Gamepad Base versions before April 2018 also required 1 x Switch Adapter
* ''Fasteners:''
** 4 x #6-32 x 1/2" screw to hold cover on gamepad (4) and also to hold switch adapter on base (2)
** NOTE: Gamepad Base versions before April 2018 also required 2 more of these screws to hold on the switch adapter.

=== Sensors ===
These are included in the Deluxe version of our kit. They're mainly useful for Scratch programming activities.
* 1 x HCSR04 Ultrasonic Rangefinder
* 1 x Analog Light sensor
* 1 x 30cm USB cord type A to mini

==3D Printing the Plastic Parts==

===Obtaining the STL Files===

You can find all the current STL files here: [http://tinyurl.com/VORPALFILES VORPAL FILES]. Go to the STL folder. The Vorpal Hexapod STLs are in the subfolder ROBOT and the gamepad parts are in GAMEPAD. There are subfolders with accessories (such as sensor housings and game pieces).

===Printing Notes and Tips===

This project has been finely tuned to make it easy to 3D print. No supports are required for any of the parts. In some cases you may want to use brims or rafts to help parts adhere to the print surface. There is minimal bridging, never farther than about 15mm (5/8"). Some of the parts do require some flexibility, for example the sides of the servo compartments need to bend outward while the servos are inserted, they then snap back into place when the servo is completely inserted. This means brittle plastics like PLA are not the best choice for this project. (Although we have made PLA hexapods and they do work if you're careful when inserting the servos).

This page assumes you have basic familiarity with 3D printing and 3D printing terminology. If not, you might want to reference online materials such as youtube videos or information from your 3D printer manufacturer before attempting this project.

If you are 3D printing the plastic parts (as opposed to buying them pre-printed), here are some tips.

* MINIMUM PRINTER REQUIREMENTS
** The bed size should be at least 150mm cube (5.9 inches cube). The largest part is the hexapod base so it is the limiting factor on bed size.
** A heated bed is strongly recommended, especially if you are printing in ABS.
* RECOMMENDED PLASTICS
** ABS and PETG both work well. When we sell Full Kits and Assembled Vorpals we use ABS.
** PLA is somewhat brittle, but it will work if you're careful. Inserting the servos into the legs and hips will somewhat flex the plastic so be careful during that process with PLA. Attaching the two halves of the leg hinges together can be more successful in PLA if you first soak the hinges in very hot tap water to soften up the plastic a bit.
* PRINT SETTINGS. We print using the following settings on a Lulzbot TAZ 6 or Lulzbot Mini with 0.5mm nozzle:
** 0.38 layer thickness (or whatever layer thickness is optimal for your printer)
** 1mm walls (i.e. two perimeters)
** 1.14mm top and bottom (i.e. three layers)
** 15% infill
** You can print with thinner layers if your printer does not support 0.38mm layers or if you want a more refined look, it will just take longer.
* BRIMS AND RAFTS
** Brims or rafts are recommended for the following hexapod parts: Base, Legs, Electronics Caddy, Cap. This ensures proper bed retention to avoid warping. These parts have relatively little contact area with the print bed, or have certain sections with little contact.
** Brims/rafts are not recommended on any of the other parts. The other parts generally have enough bed surface contact that they will print fine without brims. Your mileage may vary however and it is recommended that you keep a close eye on the first few layers of the print to make sure everything is sticking properly. If not, you can cancel the job with minimal loss of plastic then restart with brims or rafts.
** We personally prefer brims (such as available in Cura) as they are easy to remove and leave a clean look.
* POST PRINT
**Other than removing brims/rafts and the occasional drip, there is not any special post-processing required after printing.
**However, be very careful to inspect the hemispheres jutting out of one side of each of the servo holders, these need to be as low friction as possible. Inspect for drips and defects. If necessary, use a file or sand paper to smooth them out.

== Building the Robot ==

You will need the following tools:
* 2mm hex key. A 5/64 inch hex key will also work. This is in the Hexapod Parts bag. (NOTE: Some very early kits put this in the Deluxe Parts Bag).
* A marker that can write on dark plastic and still be seen, such as Sharpie Metallic or Sharpie Oil markers (white and yellow work great).
** This is the easiest way to mark servo wires with their corresponding leg number
** If you don't have these types of marker, you could use clear tape and bits of paper to tape wire labels near the socket end of the servo cable. Don't put labels right on the black plastic connectors at the end of the servo because you'll make them too thick to fit side by side when plugged in.
===Servo Pre Check===
Sometimes the servo motor gearbox will get locked up when sitting for a long time, for example during shipping, especially in cold weather. The following procedure will ensure they work properly. (Note: Some MG90S servo bags distributed in the past with our kits say not to turn the servo horn, these instructions supercede that note on the bag).

* Put a one-arm servo horn on each servo. You don't need a screw, just put it on in any random position for now.
* ''Slowly'' and ''gently'' rock the servo horn by hand so it turns. Do not use a lot of force. Note that there is a physical stop that only allows it to turn 180 degrees. If you push in one direction and it won't move, rock it in the other direction.
* As soon as it moves, even just 10 or 20 degrees in either direction, you've confirmed the servo is not locked. Do not leave it at an extreme position where it stops, leave it somewhere around the middle.
If any servo fails to move with modest pressure and a gentle rocking motion, put a mark on that servo, near where the wire comes out. It will most likely unfreeze when power is applied, but you need to keep an eye on it for now.

===Step by Step Instructions===

*'''STEP 1: Insert accessory port screws in the chassis''' Insert 5/8" #6-32 hex head screws in the bottom two holes of the accessory port, head of the screw inside the hexapod, then tighten nuts outside. Repeat for the top two accessory holes with shorter 1/2" #6-32 hex head screws. The heads of the screws recess into hexogonal holes so you don't need to use pliers inside the robot body, just for the nuts. Two wingnuts go on the two lower screws, these will be used to secure accessories such as the Joust lance or Capture-the-Flag attachment.
<gallery mode=packed>
File:Hexhead-Screw.JPG|Be sure to use the hex head screws for the accessory port.
File:Accessory-Port-Diagram-V2.JPG|The accessory port is considered the "front" of the robot.
File:Accessory-Port-Screws.JPG|Longer hex head screws go on the bottom. Do not overtighten the nuts.
File:Wing-Nuts-Installed.JPG|After installing the nuts, put the wingnuts on the bottom screws. They'll be used later to secure accessories.
</gallery>
*'''STEP 2: Insert servos in the chassis.'''
** Next, insert the servo into the chassis as shown in the diagrams below. As you insert the servo into the chassis, slowly press it straight into place until it clicks in under the small tab on one side of the servo holder. Make sure it stays straight as you push down.
** Immediately mark the black connector at the end of the wire to indicate the servo number (which is engraved in the top of the servo holder, a number between 0 and 5).
*** A metallic sharpie pen works very well for this, or a light colored oil paint sharpie such as white.
*** If you don't have any of those things, a little piece of masking tape can be affixed to the wire and marked, or you could use clear cellophane tape to attach little bits of marked paper to the wire. Do not attach any tape or paper to the black connector, as it will be a tight fit when connecting later.
*** The wire coming out of the servo sticks out away from the robot, the servo shaft would face down toward the table top if the chassis were resting on the table.
** After inserting the servo, thread the wire through the top servo wire guide hole, and into the center of the chassis.
[[File:ServoChassisInsert.png|400px|Insert Servo in Chassis]]
[[File:spacerimage.png|100px|Insert Servo in Chassis]]
[[File:ServoHipInserted.png|140px|Insert Servo in Chassis]]
* '''STEP 3: Insert the servos in the Legs.''' The technique is very similar to inserting the servo into the chassis.
**Insert the servo straight into the leg socket so that the wire is coming out of the servo facing away from the plastic leg and the face of the servo with the shaft and servo horn goes into the open faced side of the leg, as shown in the diagram.
**The servos in the legs are called the "knee" servos. Each leg has a higher number on it, this is the knee number, they run from 6 to 11. Again, write this number on the black connector at the end of the servo wire. PRO TIP: For 6 and 9, underline the number so you don't read them upside down!
[[File:Servo-Insert-Leg-v2.png|350px|Insert Servo in Legs]]
[[File:spacerimage.png|100px|Insert Servo in Chassis]]
[[File:Servo-Leg-Inserted-v2.png|350px|Insert Servo in Legs]]
* '''STEP 4: Thread each leg servo wire''' into the bottom wire guide slot on the chassis. Each leg servo should be matched with a hip servo plus 6. The legs are marked with the hip number near the top and the knee number below that. For example, the leg marked 6 should be threaded through the wire guide on hip servo 0, leg 7 goes with hip 1, leg 8 goes with hip 2, etc. Add 6 to the hip number to get the leg number.
* '''STEP 5: Build the electrical system.''' You need to power up the servos and make them seek to the 90 degree position, this will allow you to adjust the legs properly for walking.
** STEP 5A: Take the potentiometer and remove the cap, then unscrew the nut and set these items aside for now. Push the potentiometer shaft from the inside of the chassis, into the hole that has the markings "STOP", "TST", etc. The wires coming out of the potentiometer should be pointing down and you may need to bend them a bit to make it all fit. Put the retaining nut on the potentiometer, hand tighten first and then give it just another half turn or so with pliers if desired. Turn the knob all the way counter clockwise, then insert the knob so it points to the letter "O" in the word "STOP".
** STEP 5B: Find the on/off switch (which is attached to the battery holder assembly). There was a change to how this was installed in October, 2019. The older version requires a "switch adapter," while the new version just uses a slot to feed in the wires. The two sets of diagrams below illustrate both the old and the new way of installing the switch.
New Version Switch Installation:
<gallery mode=packed heights=200>
File:NewSwitchInstall-Step1.jpg|Thread the switch and its wires through the Base, there is an opening under the switch hole.
File:NewSwitchInstall-Step2.jpg|Bring the wires up through the slot below the switch hole.
File:NewSwitchInstall-Step3.jpg|Press the switch into the hole, it should snap into place. The "1" should be on top.
</gallery>
Old Version Switch Installation (before about mid October 2019):
<gallery mode=packed>
File:Assembly-Switch-Bracket-Insertion.JPG|Thread the wires through the gap in the adapter
File:Assembly-Switch-Bracket-Done.JPG|Press the switch into the adapter.
File:Assembly-Switch-Bracket-Insertion-into-Base.JPG|From the inside of the robot, line up the switch/adapter with the switch hole.
File:Assembly-Switch-Bracket-in-Base.JPG|While holding the switch/adapter in place, insert screws from the outside of the robot.
</gallery>
** STEP 5C: If you do not have a "QuickBuild" version of the kit, then make all the connections listed in the ELECTRICAL CONNECTIONS section of these instructions below. Be extremely careful about the power connections. Double check all connections before powering on. If you do have a QuickBuild kit, all the connections are already made for you.
[[File:Servo-Horn-Orientation.png|thumb|right|The servo horn should come straight out from the body at a 90 degree angle as shown here. Do not turn the servo shaft by hand until after it has moved under power!]]
* '''STEP 6: Power up!''' Make sure the on/off switch is off, and the knob is turned to STOP. Insert batteries and power on the robot using the on/off switch. You should hear a beep, a pause, then a second beep. The servos should all twitch into position. If the robot does not move at all, immediately turn the switch off and check your connections again. If some of the servos don't move (especially any you marked during the servo pre-check) then gently push them with power off to see if you can free them up. If they still won't move, try pushing them with power applied, but turn off the power within 30 seconds if they're locked up. If you can't get the servo to move it will need to be replaced.
* '''STEP 7: Insert Servo Horns.''' The servo horns are all at random angles right now due to the servo pre-check. In this step we'll make them point in the right direction. The knee servos are not at 90 degrees when the knob is all the way counter clockwise, rather they are at a 30 degree standing angle. We need to get them to 90 degrees so its easy to align the servo horn. Turn the knob very slightly clockwise and you will see all the knee servos twitch. This is "adjust servo horn mode". All servos (knees and hips) are now at their halfway point, 90 degrees. Now you need to take each single arm servo horn and carefully insert it on the shaft so that it is sticking straight out as shown in the figure. You will not always be able to make the horn come totally straight out. This is because there are only 22 little groves (splines) in each shaft, meaning you can in general only come within about 8 degrees of being at a perfect 90 degree angle. This amount of error is acceptable, just get it as close as you can. It is better for the horn to be a little too much clockwise than to be a little too much counterclockwise, especially for the knees. Do this for all hip and knee servos. Do not insert any screws yet.
[[File:Servo-Bracket-Alignment-v1.png|thumb|350px|right|Align the leg hinges as shown here. The bumps (see arrows) should both be near each other when properly aligned. Hold one in each hand with the ends of the U shape between thumb and forefinger.]]
* '''STEP 8: Assemble the leg hinges'''. Each leg hinge is composed of two identical U-shaped parts. Take one in each hand and align the two so that the bump (shown in the diagram at the right) are both near each other. Turn one 90 degrees with respect to the other.
**Gently squeeze each piece between thumb and forefinger, which causes the little jaws in the center to open up slightly. Work the two halves together. Squeeze just enough so they work their way on, no more or you might break the part!.
**At this stage, you may notice that the parts are loosely clamped on each other. Don't worry! When you place the leg hinges over a servo, the servo will spread it apart and they will lock together tightly.
* '''STEP 9: Attach Leg Hinges.''' The leg hinges connect the hips to the knees. They only go on one way. First place the end that matches the servo horn on, then you need to very slightly bend the U shaped piece while pulling it over the hemispherical bearing on the other side. It's a little easier to do the knees (servos mounted to legs) first, followed by the hips (servos on base).
**NOTE: It should not be excessively difficult to push the hinge over the hemispherical bearing. If you find you are struggling, that means the hinges are too tight. This may affect walking. This can be due to the kind of plastic you used or how your printer is adjusted. You may need to gently spread the two legs of the U shape by hand before putting the hinge on the robot. Be careful of course not to break the hinge.
* '''STEP 10: Test Knee Positions.''' Turn the knob fully counter clockwise (to STOP) and the robot will go into "stand still" mode. Place it on a level surface such as a table top. Do all of the legs touch the ground? If one or more legs don't touch the ground, you need to adjust the servo horn on the knee a little bit so it does touch. Gently pull off the servo bracket. Pull the servo horn off, and put it back on just a little bit moved so the leg would move closer to the ground. Put the servo bracket back on, and see how it looks. Do this until all legs are at least slightly touching the ground. Again, you can't necessarily be perfect due to the 8 degree increments the servo horns can be moved. But you should be able to be close enough that all legs at least slightly touch the ground.
* '''STEP 11: Insert Servo Screws.''' Now that the legs are adjusted, you can insert the M2.5x8 screws into the servo horns to lock them in place. Note that you will NOT be using the screws that were in the little bag the servos came in, you'll be using the separate pack of screws, which are longer than the ones in the servo bag. Do not overtighten these screws, as you could possibly crack the servo brackets. Just turn the screws until you start to feel resistance, then turn a quarter turn more and stop.
* '''STEP 12: Test Individual Servos.''' To test whether every servo is working, put the robot on its stand. Then start with the knob on STOP, then slowly turn it clockwise. First the servos will go into adjust mode, you used that a moment ago to set the servo horns. But, keep going, and the robot will go into "individual servo test mode". In this mode, every hip servo will move, one by one. When all the hips have moved, every leg will move, one by one. You should see every servo move, in order. If some don't move, check your connections. A common error is to plug a servo connector into the servo controller backwards (i.e. the brown wire is matched with the yellow pin instead of the black pin).
{| class="wikitable" align=right style="float:right; background:transparent; margin: {{{margins|1em 1em 1em 1em}}}; {{{style|}}}"
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| <youtube>5T7E1IqHxNc|Electronics Caddy Tutorial</youtube>
|}
* '''STEP 13: Test Using Demo Mode.''' Ok, everything looks good, so time for a full test. Turn the knob to STOP, then take the robot off the stand and put it on the floor. Turn the knob to DEMO, and the robot will go through a series of movements to demonstrate some of the things it can do. The full demo only takes about 30 seconds, then repeats. Here, you are looking for the robot to, for example, be able to get back up off the floor after doing some of its dance moves. If the robot struggles to get off the floor, you may have a battery that is not fully charged, or there may be too much friction between the servo bracket and the little ball socket it sits in. A tiny bit of silicone lubricant will usually fix that problem, or just make sure those parts are cleaned up from 3D printing and don't have an excess strands of material that are causing friction. See the [[Vorpal Combat_Hexapod Troubleshooting Guide|Trouble Shooting Guide]] for more information about different kinds of issues that can occur.
* '''STEP 14: Store the Electronics in the Caddy''' Now things look pretty messy with all those wires hanging loose, let's clean it up by stowing them in the electronics caddy. Please reference the video and diagrams here for quick instructions.
** '''STEP 14A: Insert Caddy Bars''' Insert the two electronics caddy bars as shown in the diagrams below. Notice carefully how they are inserted. You may need to slightly squeeze the forked section at the end to work it into the hole. Once inside, it may be difficult to remove because it will snap into place, so be sure you're putting it in the right way.
<gallery mode=packed>
File:Electronics-Caddy-Insert-Bar.JPG|Here one bar has already been inserted, the other is being put into place. Notice the orientation, don't put it in upside down. The little nubs at the end should be facing the caddy.
</gallery>
** '''STEP 14B: Insert the Servo Controller and Arduino Nano''' The diagrams here do not show the wires to make them easier to visualize. Carefully insert the servo controller as shown, making sure you don't pull out any of the wires. You may need to wiggle the electronics caddy bar from side to side a bit so that components can slide past it during insertion. Notice that the end of the Servo controller with wires sticking out of it must go in last. Carefully insert the Arduino Nano as shown, making sure you don't pull out any of the wires. You may need to wiggle the electronics caddy bar from side to side a bit so that components can slide past it during insertion. Notice that the end of the Nano that has the USB port must go in last.
<gallery mode=packed>
File:Electronics-Caddy-Insert-ServoController.JPG|Insert the servo controller so it is sandwiched between the bar and the electronics caddy. Wires not shown for clarity.
File:Electronics-Caddy-Insert-Nano.JPG|Insert the Nano so that the USB port faces out away from the electronics caddy, this allows you to access it without disassembling the robot.
File:Electronics-Caddy-Assembled-Underside.JPG|This is what the underside of the electronics caddy looks like after inserting the Servo Controller and Arduino Nano. Wires not shown for clarity.
</gallery>
** '''STEP 14C: Insert the HC05 Bluetooth Module''' The diagrams here do not show the wires to make them easier to visualize. The HC05 Bluetooth module with a name beginning with "S" should be used for the robot. For example, the label will read something like "VORP S2944" (the number will differ). The one marked "M" will be used for the gamepad. Slide the HC05 into the side drawer as shown. When inserting, be careful not to pull out the wires, which will be a little tight. Work the wires into the little space provided so they stay clear of the robot's cap when it gets screwed on later.
<gallery mode=packed>
File:Electronics-Caddy-Insert-HC05.JPG|Insert the HC05 into the side drawer as shown.
File:Electronics-Caddy-Assembled-HC05.JPG|When fully inserted, the indicator light will still be visible through the small oval. The wires should be tucked into the little cavity near the pins of the HC05.
</gallery>
* '''STEP 15: Assemble the Cap'''
** '''STEP 15A: Put hook-and-loop dots in the Cap''' Insert a "hook" circular self-stick dot in each of the 10mm circular holder areas in the cap. Do not use the fuzzy "loop" side of the hook-and-loop pair, use the "hook" side of the pair. Press firmly so the glue backing sticks firmly to the plastic. NOTE: Older versions of this project used magnets on the cap and eye decorations. If you are assembling an older version, press the magnet into the cap firmly (you may need to use pliers) and make sure the marked face (north pole) is showing. On accessories like eyes, make sure the unmarked face (south pole) is showing.
** '''STEP 15B: Decorate''' If desired, use a permanent marker to color the Vorpal "V" on top of the Cap. Oil markers work well. On light colors of plastic a black permanent marker will also work.
** '''STEP 15C: Put Cap on the Hexapod''' Screw the cap on the robot by lining up the tabs with the matching slots in the rim of the base. Turn the cap clockwise to lock it in place. IMPORTANT: Do not press down on the robot to insert the cap when the robot is under power standing on its legs! You can damage the leg motors by doing this. It is best to turn the robot off, and either support the bottom of the Base with one hand and press the Cap on with the other, or set the Base down on the table top or floor with legs out to the sides so they don't take pressure.
* '''STEP 16: Bounce Pads''' There is a foam pad with a peel-off self-sticking side. This goes on the bottom of the robot. It allows dance moves that slam the robot to the floor to be safe for the robot's parts.
<gallery mode=packed>
File:Robot-Foam-Installation.JPG|Peel off the paper and stick the foam on the bottom of the robot.
</gallery>
* '''STEP 17: Warning Label''' There are two a self-stick choking hazard warning labels in the hexapod parts bag. Peel the backing off one of them and place it on the bottom of the robot, near the center of the foam. Retain the second label for the gamepad.

== Building the Gamepad ==
[[File:Gamepad-Overall-Assembly-Exploded.png|thumb|600px|right|Gamepad order of parts during assembly (wires not shown for clarity).]]
To go beyond demo mode, you need to build the Vorpal Gamepad. The Vorpal Gamepad allows you to call up many different actions by the hexapod such as walking, turning, dancing, or fighting. The gamepad can also be used as a transmitter to allow Scratch programs to wirelessly control your robot from a computer.

=== Part 1: Gamepad Electrical System (Skip if using a QuickBuild kit) ===

If you DO NOT have a "QuickBuild" version of our kit, then you must first assemble the electrical components of the gamepad as follows. Please SKIP this entire section if you have a QuickBuild version of our kit, and proceed to Part 2.

* '''STEP 1: Attach cables to the button matrix.''' Pull 8 wires off the Dupont wire bundle. The colors don't really matter so just take 8 adjacent wires and leave them together if possible. Carefully push these 8 wires, in order, onto the pins coming out of the 4x4 button matrix. Make sure the wire connectors don't "swap places" by twisting under each other, it is very important that the order be correct.
[[File:Gamepad-Electronics-Layout.png|thumb|right|400 px|Layout of Electronic Boards. Left to right: Arduino Nano, HC05 Bluetooth Module, and SD Card reader. (wires are left out of diagram for clarity)]]

* '''STEP 2: Attach cables to the yellow D-PAD buttons.''' Pull three wires off the Dupont wire bundle of the following colors: red, black, white. Plug the white wire into the yellow D-PAD button module's pin marked OUT (output). The middle pin marked VCC gets the red wire, and the pin marked GND gets the black wire.

* '''STEP 3: Connect the electrical system wires.''' Using the connections indicated in the section below on electrical wiring, plug in all the wires for the Arduino Nano, HC05 Bluetooth module, SD Card Reader, and button modules.

=== Part 2: Inserting Gamepad Components into Plastic Base ===

* '''STEP 1: Install the switch.'''
** If you printed version V1R8c or later, or you received printed parts from us in or after April, 2018: Gamepad Base designs before April, 2018 required a switch adapter to be installed in a similar way to the hexapod robot Base, however that was eliminated in version V1R8c of the Gamepad. With the new design you just leave the switch hanging out of the switch hole on the back of the base until you screw on the top of the gamepad, then you press fit the switch into the resulting rectangular hole.
** If you printed gamepad Base versions earlier than V1r8c or you received printed parts from us before April, 2018: Take the switch/battery assembly and use two #6-32 screws 1/2" long to attach it on the inside wall of the gamepad base, in the rectangular hole. The switch itself is sandwiched between the gamepad wall and a switch adapter (the same switch adapter model used for the robot is used for the gamepad, you need to print two of them). DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN THE SCREWS.

* ''' STEP 2: Place the buttons''' Place the 4x4 button matrix and also the yellow D-PAD button module in the matching places on the button bracket. The yellow D-PAD buttons should be placed down first, and you may need to slightly bend the pins downward. The 4x4 button matrix also should have its pins slightly bent downward, then its wires will go on top of the wires coming out of the yellow D-PAD button module.
**NOTE: The yellow caps on the D-PAD buttons are optional. We normally remove these because we have found that in demo situations some people, especially young children, will press the yellow buttons so hard that they dislodge the caps. They will press right back on, it's not a problem really, however they may think they broke the controller. We feel it's better just to take them off.

* '''STEP 3: Insert the Arduino Nano.''' The Arduino Nano should be oriented such that its USB port is coming out the square hole on the left side of the base, and all the outgoing wires from the Nano are coming out toward the front of the base. Once in place, gently push the side of the Nano opposite of the USB port until it clicks into place, securing it.

* ''' STEP 4: Insert the HC05 Bluetooth Module.''' Slip the HC05 Bluetooth module under the U shaped bracket near the center of the gamepad base. Its lights should be facing upward, they will be visible through holes in the top of the gamepad and this helps you know that the gamepad is turned on.

* '''STEP 5: Put it all together.''' Put the 9v battery clip inside the battery box area of the base. Place the button bracket on top of the base, then place the gamepad top on the button bracket, sandwiching the button modules in place. Align the four screw holes in the corners with the matching holes on the base and secure with four #6-32 screws 1/2" long. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN. NOTE: You might want to just put two screws in, and don't even put them all the way in, until you test the gamepad. In that way, if it does not work, you can easily open it back up to check connections.

'''STEP 6: Detect D-PAD Style''' Turn the gamepad's switch to the OFF (0) position, then insert a charged 9v battery. Hold down the top button on the D-PAD module (the one above the grouping of four directional buttons). While still holding this button, turn the switch to the ON (1) position, you should see lights come on inside the gamepad. Count slowly to ten, then release the D-PAD button. This procedure causes the gamepad to detect what kind of D-PAD is being used so that it may interpret the button presses correctly. You only need to do this once (or after swapping in a new D-PAD module, for example after a repair). The setting is stored in nonvolatile EEPROM on the gamepad's Arduino Nano.

* '''STEP 7: Test!''' Turn the switch to "0" (off). Connect a 9v battery to the 9v battery clip then slide the battery door onto the base. Turn the switch to "1" (on). Lights should be visible through the holes. Turn the hexapod's dial all the way clockwise, to "RC" thus putting it in Bluetooth mode. Turn the hexapod on and wait a few seconds for it to completely boot. Try to control the robot! Try hitting each of the top three rows of 4x4 matrix buttons (W, F, D) one by one, and test to make sure every mode functions. If most modes work but a couple do not, you may have swapped some wires coming off the matrix.

* '''STEP 8: Decorate''' If desired, use a marker to darken the Vorpal "V" symbol, the W, F, D, R markings, the 0 and 1 switch markings, and the record/play symbols under the 4x4 button matrix. This will make them more visible as well as making the gamepad look nicer. We like using oil based paint markers. For dark colored plastics, use a white oil paint marker, for light colored plastics use black, blue, or red to contrast with the plastic color.

'''STEP 9: Warning Label''' There were two a self-stick choking hazard warning labels in the hexapod parts bag. You used one for the robot. Peel the backing off the other and place it on the bottom of the gamepad, being sure not to interfere with the battery drawer.

= Trimming the Servos =
When you assembled the servo horns onto the servos, you probably were not able to get them all to come out exactly at a 90 degree angle. That's not your fault: the servo horns only have 22 possible positions in which they can be installed, so at best you can come within plus or minus 8 degrees of perfection.

Now that you have the gamepad working, you can make fine adjustments to the servo positions using "Trim Mode". In this special gamepad mode, you can adjust all the servos. These adjustments are saved in the robot's EEPROM, which is memory on the Nano that retains data even when powered off. So, you only need to trim once.

Complete instructions on how to use trim mode are in the wiki page: [[Vorpal The Hexapod Trim Mode Guide]].

NOTE: although this step is optional, it is recommended because your robot will walk straighter and all the servos will share equally in lifting the robot's weight, which will make them last longer.

=Assembling Game Accessories and Nameplates=
Most of the accessory pieces require no assembly, or just require press fitting magnets into round holes or attaching self-stick velcro.

When inserting magnets, the rule is: anything that attaches to the robot via the accessory port screws should have the dimpled side of the magnet ''showing'', and anything that is supposed to attach to the robot or a screwed-on accessory should have the dimple side ''down, not showing''.

Based on this rule, the dimpled side of the magnet should '''not''' show for these items:
* Flag
* Joust Rider
* Name plate

And the dimple ''should'' be showing for these items:
* Capture the Flag Arm
* Joust Lance

==Assembling Sensors==
The light sensor and ultrasonic rangefinder sensor can be assembled with two screws each. The sensor module is sandwiched in between two plastic pieces. These screws are in the Deluxe Parts Bag. The screws will self-thread into the plastic. Do not overtighten or you will strip the plastic and the screws won't hold. When the screw head is all the way down, stop turning.

The ultrasonic rangefinder sensor attaches to the accessory port screws.

The light sensor wedges into one of the slotted holes in the cap.
==Electrical Connections: Robot==

NOTE: If you have a QuickBuild version of our kit, this information is for reference only. All the connections are already made in QuickBuild kits. This information might still be useful if you are an advanced user who may want to add new electrical components or modify the system.

===NOTES ON JUMPER WIRES===

This section is for self-source builders and Bare Bones Kit builders. Quickbuild kits are pre-wired and electrical systems are fully tested, so you can skip this section if you have a Quickbuild kit.

====Wire Lengths====
There are two different lengths of female-female Dupont jumper wires used to make most connections. The longer ones (20cm) are only used for the Hexapod's accessory port connections. The shorter ones are used for all the connections on the Gamepad and all the connections on the Hexapod between the Arduino Nano, Servo controller and Bluetooth module.

====Wire Color Conventions====

Please follow these conventions when selecting wire colors:
* For +5V, Vin, and similar positive voltage connections, use either RED or ORANGE.
* For GND and other negative electrical connections, use BLACK or BROWN.
* For the connectors that sit at the mouth of the accessory port (used for optional sensors) colors are suggested below in the instructions. By following these suggestions you will make your life easier when connecting sensors!
* For all other connections, you can use any color you want, it's arbitrary.

====If Jumper Wires Are Too Loose====
Sometimes you will find a wire whose connector does not grip the pin well enough. It might fall off very easily or just by gravity alone. If that happens, you have a few options:
* There are extra wires in your kit. If you find a wire that's too loose, just use a different wire.
* Using the hex key, you can put the jumper housing on a flat surface then press on the metal showing through the plastic connector, which will tighten up the jumper wire's grip. Don't go too overboard on pressing though or you might make it too hard to insert.
* Alternatively, you could use electrical tape after inserting all the wires on a module (such as the Nano) to effectively attach together all the little plastic female connector housings. In that way, the connectors that do grip will help hold in the ones that are too loose. Some people also like using hot glue for this purpose. (Personally, I don't like using hot glue, as it makes it harder to change connections if you hooked something up incorrectly.)

===NANO PIN CONNECTIONS (Bare Bones Kit/Reference)===
NOTE: If you are using our Quickbuild kit, this information is for reference only. Quickbuild kit wiring is already completed and tested.

[[File:Hexapod-Nano-Diagram.JPG|thumb|600px|right|Diagram of Nano connections for the Hexapod. Jumpers marked AP are routed to the Accessory Port for use with add-ons like sensors. Click for larger image.]]
* ''Digital IO Pins:''
** D0, D1 are reserved because they are used for uploading programs to the robot, so nothing will be connected there.
** D2 Bluetooth Module Rx
** D3 Bluetooth Module Tx
** D4 Buzzer Signal (white wire)
** D5, D6 NO CONNECTION. These pins are reserved for future expansion.
** D7 20cm GREEN Dupont connector routed to accessory port, used for Ultrasonic Rangefinder TRIG
** D8 20cm BLUE Dupont connector routed to accessory port, used for Ultrasonic Rangefinder ECHO
** D9 No connection. This pin is reserved for future expansion.
** D10 through D13 are reserved for the optional CMUCAM5 (Pixie) sensor accessory.

* ''Analog Pins:''
** A0 Potentiometer signal (white wire)
** A1 Potentiometer Power (red wire)
** A2 Potentiometer Ground (black wire)
** A3 20cm YELLOW Dupont connector routed to the accessory port, for the optional light sensor or other analog sensors.
** A4 Servo Controller SDA
** A5 Servo Controller SCL
** A6 20cm PURPLE Dupont connector, routed to the accessory port, for any analog sensor you wish to optionally add later.
** A7 No connection, reserved for future use.

* ''Power Pins:''
** VIN pin on Nano connects to Battery positive (the red Dupont connector coming off near the switch on the wiring module)
** GND pin on Nano connects to Battery negative (the black Dupont connector coming off the battery black wire)
** Second GND pin on Nano (there are two GND pins on the Nano) connects to the GND pin on the HC05 module
** +5V on Nano connects to HC05 +5V Pin

IMPORTANT NOTE: The red Dupont connector coming off the switch/battery assembly must go to VIN and never +5V, because the battery voltage is much higher than +5 volts. You will more or less instantly destroy your Nano if you put unregulated battery power directly into the +5V pin. The VIN pin has its own voltage regulator. The +5V pin on the Nano will be used to provide regulated power to the Bluetooth module.

=== Bluetooth Module Power (Bare Bones Kit/Reference)===
* +5V on HC05 connects to Nano +5V pin
* GND on HC05 connects to either of the two Nano GND pins

=== Buzzer Power ===
* Connect the buzzer V+ and ground (marked "-") pins (red and black respectively) to Port 13 of the Servo Controller, matching black and red wires to black and red pins on the Servo Controller. You will be using the special three wire cable provided for this purpose. It has a three-pin connector one one side, and the other side has a two-pin connector and a one-pin connector. The one-pin connector goes to the Nano and provides the signal to drive the buzzer. The two-pin connector is plugged into Servo Controller Port 13.

=== Servo Controller ===
[[File:ServoController-Pin-Labels.JPG|thumb|600px|right|Diagram of Servo Controller pins you will use in this project. Each servo motor has a 3 wire connector. Match the brown servo wire with the black color coded pin in its servo port, match the yellow wire with the yellow pin. Click for larger image.]]
* Connect the 12 servos to port numbers corresponding to the servo marking (0 to 11). Make sure the signal wire (yellow) is oriented correctly and matches the yellow plastic header pin.
* Connect the switch/battery module regulated BEC output (a three pin Dupont connector where only two of the pins are populated, one with a red V+ wire, one with a black ground wire) to servo controller port 12 power and ground. Make sure the RED wire is going to VCC (red pin) and the BLACK wire goes to GND (black pin).
* On one short side of the Servo Controller you will find a VCC and V+ pin right next to each other. Use a shunt (small black connector that goes over two pins) to connect those together if one is not already installed. This shunt causes both the servos and the microprocessor to run at the same +5V level.
* SDA and SCL go to A4 and A5 on the Nano, respectively.
* Servo port 12 RED and BLACK pins are connected to the output of the BEC. Make sure the BEC RED wire matches with the RED pin, and the BEC BALCK wire matches with the BLACK pin.
* Servo port 13 RED and BLACK pins are connected to the passive buzzer power connector. Make sure the buzzer BLACK wire matches the BLACK pin, and the RED wire matches the RED pin.
* Servo port 14 RED pin goes to a 20cm ORANGE Dupont connector and is routed to the accessory port to provide +5V for sensors or other accessories.
* Servo port 14 BLACK pin goes to a 20cm BROWN Dupont connector and is routed to the accessory port to provide GND for sensors or other accessories.
* Servo port 15 RED terminal goes to a 20cm RED Dupont connector and is routed to the accessory port to provide +5V for sensors or other accessories.
* Servo port 15 BLACK terminal goes to 20cm BLACK Dupont connector and is routed to the accessory port to provide ground for sensors or other accessories.
* Servo port 15 signal terminal goes to 20cm WHITE Dupont connector and is routed to the accessory port to provide signal for a servo used in an optional accessory.

===Accessory Port Wire Bundle===
The 20cm wires connected to the Nano and Servo Controller provide access to digital ports, analog ports, and power for accessories such as sensors, lights, or other projects. These wires should be bundled up near their unconnected ends (a rubber band works well for keeping them all together) and routed to the large opening below the accessory port hex head screws on the chassis. When there is no accessory in use, these wires can remain tucked inside the accessory port. When needed, pull them out a few inches and connect to sensors or other electrical accessories.

=== Connecting the HC-SR04 Ultrasonic Rangefinder to the Accessory Port ===
When building the robot you routed longer jumper wires (20cm) to the accessory port. You need four of these wires to use the Ultrasonic Rangefinder:

* RED accessory port wire goes to HC-SR04 VCC
* BLACK accessory port wire goes to HC-SR04 GND
* GREEN accessor port wire goes to HC-SR04 TRIG
* BLUE accessory port wire goes to HC-SR04 ECHO

The Scratch block assumes you've used this setup.

=== Connecting the Light Sensor (or any Arduino compatible 5 volt analog sensor) ===
* RED or ORANGE accessory port wire goes to the center pin, which is usually unmarked (may also be marked +5V, Vcc or Vin) on the sensor
* BLACK or BROWN accessory port wire goes to the ground pin on the sensor, which is usually marked with a minus sign (-) or may be marked GND or G.
* YELLOW (A3) accessory port wire goes to the Signal pin on the sensor. This is often marked (S) but on some sensors may have other markings.
** You may also use PURPLE (A6) for a sensor (or a second sensor)
** The Scratch Sensor block allows you to choose A3 (YELLOW) or A6 (PURPLE) sensor ports.

=== A note on how many things can be connected through the accessory port===
We are providing two sets of power connectors at the accessory port for sensors or other accessories. RED/BLACK and ORANGE/BROWN each respectively provide +5V/GND. It's up to you what things you want to connect using these. You could have one or two sensors, you could have a sensor and some kind off motorized accessory. You could have a sensor and an LED light strip, etc.

Nothing is stopping you from creating a Y connector to make additional power connections, except that there is a limit of 3 amps of current that you can pull from the battery/BEC system. The robot itself needs up to 2.5 amps during fast motions. But many sensors can operate on just a few milliamps. Adding a motorized accessory is where you would need to be careful about how much current you're pulling from the system. If you pull too much current, typically the BEC will overheat and go into thermal protection mode, which will shut down all the motors until you reboot the robot. It is possible to use a mini servo under moderate load for a motorized accessory, but a full sized servo under heavy load might be too much. Use caution when designing your own accessories, especially if they are going to use more than a few hundred milliamps of current.

=== Robot Screw Sizes ===
* Servo horn screws: 12 x M2.5 by 8mm long
* Switch assembly: 2 x #6-32 by 1/2" long

==Electrical Connectons: Gamepad==
NOTE: If you have a QuickBuild version of our kit, this information is for reference only. All the connections are already made in QuickBuild kits. This information might still be useful if you are an advanced user who may want to add new electrical components or modify the system.

=== GAMEPAD NANO PIN CONNECTIONS ===
[[File:Gamepad-Nano-Diagram-v3.JPG|thumb|600px|right|Diagram of Nano connections for the Gamepad. Click for larger image.]]
* D2 through D9 are connected to the button matrix pins.Looking from the top of the button matrix module, the rightmost button matrix pin (labeled 1) goes to D9, second to right (labeled 2) to D8, etc.
* D10 to SD card CS (may be labelled SS on some SD card readers)
* D11 to SD card MOSI
* D12 to SD card MISO
* D13 to SD card SCK (may be labelled SCL on some SD card readers)

* A0 Unused
* A1 Dpad OUT (white wire)
* A2 Dpad VCC (red wire)
* A3 Dpad GND (black wire)
* A4 HC05 Bluetooth Module Rx
* A5 HC05 Bluetooth Module Tx
* A6, A7 Unused

* VIN battery/switch positive (red wire)
* GND Either ground on the Nano goes to the battery/switch negative (black wire)
* ICSP pin 4 (see diagram): SD card reader GND. Note: Quickbuild kits do not use this, there's an extra GND wire soldered into the circuit for the SD card reader.
* ICSP pin 6 (see diagram): SD card reader VCC. Note: Quickbuild kits do not use this, there's an extra +5V wire soldered into the circuit for the SD card reader.
* Nano +5V pin goes to HC05 +5V pin
* Nano GND pin (there are two, you can use either one) goes to HCO5 GND pin

=== GAMEPAD: Screw Sizes ===

* Gamepad Cover, 4 x #6-32 by 1/2" long
* For kits prior to October 2019: switch adapter assembly, 2 x #6-32 by 1/2" long

{{Vorpal Quick Links}}

Vorpal The Hexapod Assembly Instructions

2022-04-08T12:36:54Z

Vorpalwiki: /* NANO PIN CONNECTIONS */

{{float_box|{{VCH Quick Links}} }}
==VIDEO BUILD INSTRUCTIONS==
Besides the printed instructions further down on this page, we have two great video build tutorials created by Teaching Tech, a great YouTube channel. Please consider subscribing to "Teaching Tech," as they have great 3d printing related videos.
The printed instructions are diagrams may still be helpful in conjunction with these videos.

===Fast Overview of Quick Build Kit Assembly===
This is an overview video showing the general build procedure in just a few minutes.
If the video does not play on your device (or you want full screen), go directly to YouTube with this link: [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SynKUki6sd8 Vorpal Quick Build Overview Video]
 
<youtube>SynKUki6sd8|Vorpal Quick Build Kit Overview Video</youtube>
 

===Gamepad Build Video Tutorial (Bare Bones Kit)===
This is a detailed build video for the Bare Bones version of the Gamepad. If you have a Quick Build kit, all of the wiring is already done so you can skip a lot of this video. It is useful for showing how to place the components in the plastic case, which is the same procedure for Quick Build.

IMPORTANT NOTE: The kit was simplified after this video was made, there is no longer any power switch retainer plastic part. The power switch simply snaps into the gamepad housing directly without any screws.

If the video does not play on your device (or you want full screen), go directly to YouTube with this link: [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9ePTrEtEFWI TEACHING TECH GAMEPAD BUILD VIDEO]
 
<youtube>9ePTrEtEFWI|Gamepad Build</youtube>
 

===Hexapod Build Video Tutorial (Bare Bones Kit)===
If the video below does not play on your device (or you want full screen), go directly to YouTube with this link: [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cf1dBCwsE0o&rel=0 TEACHING TECH ROBOT BUILD VIDEO]

IMPORTANT NOTE: This video was made using the "Bare Bones" kit which requires a lot more assembly than the current "Quick Build" kits. It may still be useful for reference, because many of the steps are the same, such as plugging the servo wires into the servo controller. But there is no longer any need to make individual wire connections to the nano, for example, so those parts of the video can be skipped if you have the Quick Build kit.
 
<youtube>cf1dBCwsE0o|Hexapod Build</youtube>
 

==BILL OF MATERIALS (BOM) FOR VORPAL H12 HEXAPOD==
===Notes on Sourcing Parts===
* Full kits of parts as well as individual parts are available on [http://vorpal-robotics-store.myshopify.com The Vorpal Robotics Store]. If you are new to Arduino, wiring, and robotics we strongly recommend you purchase a kit instead of trying to self-source parts. The kits cut 3 to 4 hours off the build time, bringing it to typically 1 to 1.5 hours for Quickbuild kits and 2 to 2.5 hours for Bare Bones kits. The kits have all soldering done, programs are already loaded on the Nanos, Bluetooth modules are properly configured to auto-pair on boot, and you know you have all the right parts to work together.
* These instructions assume you have purchased a kit from us. If you are sourcing your own parts, please be aware of the following additional information:
**If you are sourcing your own parts, you need to build the switch/battery connector assembly. For diagrams see [[Vorpal Combat Hexapod Battery/Switch Construction]].
**Also see important information on that page if you are sourcing your own BEC.
**If you are sourcing your own Bluetooth modules, please be aware that you will need to configure them to auto-pair and to have a UART speed of 38400 BAUD. Every module brand is a bit different so it's not possible for us to give you universal instructions on how to program them. We assume that if you source your own parts you are familiar with how to configure Bluetooth modules using AT-commands.
* IMPORTANT NOTE ON SELF-SOURCED HC05 MODULES: It has come to our attention that some vendors are now selling HC05 modules that have an issue that causes extremely long lag times on transmissions (1.5 to 2 full seconds) due to an unusual way of buffering output. This makes the robot unusable due to nonresponsiveness. Unfortunately there is no visible model number or other information that allows you to tell which ones will have this issue just by looking at the vendor's listing. Please be aware that the HC05 modules we sell are the correct ones that don't have this issue. We are working on software changes that might solve this problem by changing how we pad out our radio packets, however that is considered beta code at this point (it might affect scratch programs). We are actively looking for some way to distinguish the bad modules from the good ones but there are just too many variations of this chip to be sure. In addition, some of the bad modules also have an issue where they overheat. The overheating does not have to do with the 3.3v TR pin, it happens even if a voltage divider is used on TR. We believe that one is just a defect in the circuit board. The bottom line is, yeah, you're getting extra value when you buy parts from us: we stand behind them and we make sure they work with this project.

=== ROBOT BOM ===
[[File:Choking-Hazard-Image.jpg|right|350px]]

* ''Electronics:''
** Passive Piezo Buzzer module and 3 wire cable (see image) [[File:Passive-Piezo-Buzzer-Module.jpg|right|thumb|Passive Piezo Buzzer Module]]
** Arduino Nano, 5V, 16 mHz, ATMEGA328 or similar (marked R in our kit to indicate it is pre-loaded with robot software)
** Rotary potentiometer, 10K Ohms, 6mm shaft diameter, with 3 wires pre-soldered. Also, matching dial cap and nut.
** 1 x HC05 BlueTooth Module with 4 x F-F jumper wires for making connections (Note: the HC05 has six pins but only four are used in this project. Also, this is in the Gamepad Parts bag if you purchase our kit.)
** 1 x Servo Controller module (Adafruit 16-channel 12-bit I2C PWM/Servo driver or Adafruit clone) with F-F jumper wires for making connections, plus 1 two-pin shunt tying V+ to VCC
** 12 x MG90 micro servo motors and associated servo horns (you will only use the single-arm horn). NOTE: If your kit includes O-rings or washers, you will need to use those on the shaft of the hip servos only. These are needed for digital servos only. Many counterfeit servos claim to be digital but are really analog and don't need the washers. For more information see [[Tower Pro MG90S Vs. Clones]].
** 1 x Power distribution wiring with on/off switch, Battery holder for two 18650 cells, 3A 5V BEC, and female connectors to distribute power. If you are self-sourcing see our [[Vorpal The Hexapod Battery/Switch Construction|Circuit Diagrams]].
* ''3D Printed Parts:''
** 1 x Chassis
** 1 x Cap
** 6 x Legs (individually marked with servo numbers)
** 1 x Switch adapter
** 12 x Servo bracket U-shaped halves
** 1 x Electronics Caddy
** 1 x Stand
** 1 x Eye/glasses Decoration
** 1 x Joust game accessory with "rider"
** 1 x Capture the Flag game accessory with flag and cup.
** 1 x Fidget Spinner Challenge game accessory (no Fidget Spinner, just the stand)
** 1 x Ultrasonic Rangefinder Bracket
* ''Miscellaneous:''
** 9 x 10mm diameter pairs of hook and loop self-stick circular dots. These go on the hexapod cap (hook) and accessories like eyes and nameplates (loop).
** 7 x 10mm diameter by 3mm thick ceramic magnet, north pole marked. These are for Capture-the-Flag and Joust accessories. (Note: Not included in Bare Bones kit).
** 12 x socket head cap screw, 2.5mm diameter by 8mm long (for servo horns)
** 3 x #6-32 x 1/2" screw to fasten on/off switch adapter (2) and to hold electronics caddy on chassis (3)
** 2 x #6-32 x 3/4" screw for bottom two holes in accessory port.
** 2 x #6-32 x 1/2" screw for top two holes in the accessory port.
** 4 x #6-32 nuts to hold screws in accessory port.
** 2 x #6-32 wingnuts to attach accessories to accessory port.
** 1 x L shaped hex driver, 2mm, for both kinds of screw used in the kit.

=== GAMEPAD BOM ===
[[File:Choking-Hazard-Image.jpg|right|350px]]
* ''Electronics:''
** 1 x Battery/Switch Wiring Unit with 9v battery clip. (Note: the gamepad requires no BEC so you can use this fact to distinguish from the robot wiring unit)
** 1 x 4x4 button matrix with associated connecting wires. The matrix we use is marked YL-102 in the corner. See the picture. It's blue and has the keys number K1 through K16. You may be able to use others but the pin numbers may differ. [[File:4x4-Matrix.png|right|250px]]
** 1 x Dpad Button module with associated connecting wires. The one we use is marked Keyes_AD_Key and has yellow buttons and a red circuit board. See picture. [[File:Keyes-AD-Key.PNG|right|250px]]
** 1 x HC05 Bluetooth module and four wires to connect it
** 1 x microSD Card Reader module and six wires to connect it, and a microSD card that is compatible with the Arduino SD library. A microSD card is required for record/play features to work. The capacity should be 2 gb or less, either SD or SDHC format. The gamepad can be used to format the card for use by Arduino (hold down W4 while booting the gamepad, count to 10 slowly, release W4).
** 1 x Ardunio Nano, 5V, 16 mHz, ATMEGA328 or similar (marked "G" in our kit to indicate it is pre-loaded with Gamepad software). Note: For MAC users it is far easier to get Scratch to work if the gamepad Nano uses an FTDI serial chip instead of a CHG34X chip. Our kits use the more expensive FTDI version of the Nano in the Gamepad for this reason.
* ''3D Printed Plastic Parts:''
** 1 x Gamepad base plastic part
** 1 x Gamepad top plastic part
** 1 x Gamepad button carrier
** NOTE: Gamepad Base versions before April 2018 also required 1 x Switch Adapter
* ''Fasteners:''
** 4 x #6-32 x 1/2" screw to hold cover on gamepad (4) and also to hold switch adapter on base (2)
** NOTE: Gamepad Base versions before April 2018 also required 2 more of these screws to hold on the switch adapter.

=== Sensors ===
These are included in the Deluxe version of our kit. They're mainly useful for Scratch programming activities.
* 1 x HCSR04 Ultrasonic Rangefinder
* 1 x Analog Light sensor
* 1 x 30cm USB cord type A to mini

==3D Printing the Plastic Parts==

===Obtaining the STL Files===

You can find all the current STL files here: [http://tinyurl.com/VORPALFILES VORPAL FILES]. Go to the STL folder. The Vorpal Hexapod STLs are in the subfolder ROBOT and the gamepad parts are in GAMEPAD. There are subfolders with accessories (such as sensor housings and game pieces).

===Printing Notes and Tips===

This project has been finely tuned to make it easy to 3D print. No supports are required for any of the parts. In some cases you may want to use brims or rafts to help parts adhere to the print surface. There is minimal bridging, never farther than about 15mm (5/8"). Some of the parts do require some flexibility, for example the sides of the servo compartments need to bend outward while the servos are inserted, they then snap back into place when the servo is completely inserted. This means brittle plastics like PLA are not the best choice for this project. (Although we have made PLA hexapods and they do work if you're careful when inserting the servos).

This page assumes you have basic familiarity with 3D printing and 3D printing terminology. If not, you might want to reference online materials such as youtube videos or information from your 3D printer manufacturer before attempting this project.

If you are 3D printing the plastic parts (as opposed to buying them pre-printed), here are some tips.

* MINIMUM PRINTER REQUIREMENTS
** The bed size should be at least 150mm cube (5.9 inches cube). The largest part is the hexapod base so it is the limiting factor on bed size.
** A heated bed is strongly recommended, especially if you are printing in ABS.
* RECOMMENDED PLASTICS
** ABS and PETG both work well. When we sell Full Kits and Assembled Vorpals we use ABS.
** PLA is somewhat brittle, but it will work if you're careful. Inserting the servos into the legs and hips will somewhat flex the plastic so be careful during that process with PLA. Attaching the two halves of the leg hinges together can be more successful in PLA if you first soak the hinges in very hot tap water to soften up the plastic a bit.
* PRINT SETTINGS. We print using the following settings on a Lulzbot TAZ 6 or Lulzbot Mini with 0.5mm nozzle:
** 0.38 layer thickness (or whatever layer thickness is optimal for your printer)
** 1mm walls (i.e. two perimeters)
** 1.14mm top and bottom (i.e. three layers)
** 15% infill
** You can print with thinner layers if your printer does not support 0.38mm layers or if you want a more refined look, it will just take longer.
* BRIMS AND RAFTS
** Brims or rafts are recommended for the following hexapod parts: Base, Legs, Electronics Caddy, Cap. This ensures proper bed retention to avoid warping. These parts have relatively little contact area with the print bed, or have certain sections with little contact.
** Brims/rafts are not recommended on any of the other parts. The other parts generally have enough bed surface contact that they will print fine without brims. Your mileage may vary however and it is recommended that you keep a close eye on the first few layers of the print to make sure everything is sticking properly. If not, you can cancel the job with minimal loss of plastic then restart with brims or rafts.
** We personally prefer brims (such as available in Cura) as they are easy to remove and leave a clean look.
* POST PRINT
**Other than removing brims/rafts and the occasional drip, there is not any special post-processing required after printing.
**However, be very careful to inspect the hemispheres jutting out of one side of each of the servo holders, these need to be as low friction as possible. Inspect for drips and defects. If necessary, use a file or sand paper to smooth them out.

== Building the Robot ==

You will need the following tools:
* 2mm hex key. A 5/64 inch hex key will also work. This is in the Hexapod Parts bag. (NOTE: Some very early kits put this in the Deluxe Parts Bag).
* A marker that can write on dark plastic and still be seen, such as Sharpie Metallic or Sharpie Oil markers (white and yellow work great).
** This is the easiest way to mark servo wires with their corresponding leg number
** If you don't have these types of marker, you could use clear tape and bits of paper to tape wire labels near the socket end of the servo cable. Don't put labels right on the black plastic connectors at the end of the servo because you'll make them too thick to fit side by side when plugged in.
===Servo Pre Check===
Sometimes the servo motor gearbox will get locked up when sitting for a long time, for example during shipping, especially in cold weather. The following procedure will ensure they work properly. (Note: Some MG90S servo bags distributed in the past with our kits say not to turn the servo horn, these instructions supercede that note on the bag).

* Put a one-arm servo horn on each servo. You don't need a screw, just put it on in any random position for now.
* ''Slowly'' and ''gently'' rock the servo horn by hand so it turns. Do not use a lot of force. Note that there is a physical stop that only allows it to turn 180 degrees. If you push in one direction and it won't move, rock it in the other direction.
* As soon as it moves, even just 10 or 20 degrees in either direction, you've confirmed the servo is not locked. Do not leave it at an extreme position where it stops, leave it somewhere around the middle.
If any servo fails to move with modest pressure and a gentle rocking motion, put a mark on that servo, near where the wire comes out. It will most likely unfreeze when power is applied, but you need to keep an eye on it for now.

===Step by Step Instructions===

*'''STEP 1: Insert accessory port screws in the chassis''' Insert 5/8" #6-32 hex head screws in the bottom two holes of the accessory port, head of the screw inside the hexapod, then tighten nuts outside. Repeat for the top two accessory holes with shorter 1/2" #6-32 hex head screws. The heads of the screws recess into hexogonal holes so you don't need to use pliers inside the robot body, just for the nuts. Two wingnuts go on the two lower screws, these will be used to secure accessories such as the Joust lance or Capture-the-Flag attachment.
<gallery mode=packed>
File:Hexhead-Screw.JPG|Be sure to use the hex head screws for the accessory port.
File:Accessory-Port-Diagram-V2.JPG|The accessory port is considered the "front" of the robot.
File:Accessory-Port-Screws.JPG|Longer hex head screws go on the bottom. Do not overtighten the nuts.
File:Wing-Nuts-Installed.JPG|After installing the nuts, put the wingnuts on the bottom screws. They'll be used later to secure accessories.
</gallery>
*'''STEP 2: Insert servos in the chassis.'''
** Next, insert the servo into the chassis as shown in the diagrams below. As you insert the servo into the chassis, slowly press it straight into place until it clicks in under the small tab on one side of the servo holder. Make sure it stays straight as you push down.
** Immediately mark the black connector at the end of the wire to indicate the servo number (which is engraved in the top of the servo holder, a number between 0 and 5).
*** A metallic sharpie pen works very well for this, or a light colored oil paint sharpie such as white.
*** If you don't have any of those things, a little piece of masking tape can be affixed to the wire and marked, or you could use clear cellophane tape to attach little bits of marked paper to the wire. Do not attach any tape or paper to the black connector, as it will be a tight fit when connecting later.
*** The wire coming out of the servo sticks out away from the robot, the servo shaft would face down toward the table top if the chassis were resting on the table.
** After inserting the servo, thread the wire through the top servo wire guide hole, and into the center of the chassis.
[[File:ServoChassisInsert.png|400px|Insert Servo in Chassis]]
[[File:spacerimage.png|100px|Insert Servo in Chassis]]
[[File:ServoHipInserted.png|140px|Insert Servo in Chassis]]
* '''STEP 3: Insert the servos in the Legs.''' The technique is very similar to inserting the servo into the chassis.
**Insert the servo straight into the leg socket so that the wire is coming out of the servo facing away from the plastic leg and the face of the servo with the shaft and servo horn goes into the open faced side of the leg, as shown in the diagram.
**The servos in the legs are called the "knee" servos. Each leg has a higher number on it, this is the knee number, they run from 6 to 11. Again, write this number on the black connector at the end of the servo wire. PRO TIP: For 6 and 9, underline the number so you don't read them upside down!
[[File:Servo-Insert-Leg-v2.png|350px|Insert Servo in Legs]]
[[File:spacerimage.png|100px|Insert Servo in Chassis]]
[[File:Servo-Leg-Inserted-v2.png|350px|Insert Servo in Legs]]
* '''STEP 4: Thread each leg servo wire''' into the bottom wire guide slot on the chassis. Each leg servo should be matched with a hip servo plus 6. The legs are marked with the hip number near the top and the knee number below that. For example, the leg marked 6 should be threaded through the wire guide on hip servo 0, leg 7 goes with hip 1, leg 8 goes with hip 2, etc. Add 6 to the hip number to get the leg number.
* '''STEP 5: Build the electrical system.''' You need to power up the servos and make them seek to the 90 degree position, this will allow you to adjust the legs properly for walking.
** STEP 5A: Take the potentiometer and remove the cap, then unscrew the nut and set these items aside for now. Push the potentiometer shaft from the inside of the chassis, into the hole that has the markings "STOP", "TST", etc. The wires coming out of the potentiometer should be pointing down and you may need to bend them a bit to make it all fit. Put the retaining nut on the potentiometer, hand tighten first and then give it just another half turn or so with pliers if desired. Turn the knob all the way counter clockwise, then insert the knob so it points to the letter "O" in the word "STOP".
** STEP 5B: Find the on/off switch (which is attached to the battery holder assembly). There was a change to how this was installed in October, 2019. The older version requires a "switch adapter," while the new version just uses a slot to feed in the wires. The two sets of diagrams below illustrate both the old and the new way of installing the switch.
New Version Switch Installation:
<gallery mode=packed heights=200>
File:NewSwitchInstall-Step1.jpg|Thread the switch and its wires through the Base, there is an opening under the switch hole.
File:NewSwitchInstall-Step2.jpg|Bring the wires up through the slot below the switch hole.
File:NewSwitchInstall-Step3.jpg|Press the switch into the hole, it should snap into place. The "1" should be on top.
</gallery>
Old Version Switch Installation (before about mid October 2019):
<gallery mode=packed>
File:Assembly-Switch-Bracket-Insertion.JPG|Thread the wires through the gap in the adapter
File:Assembly-Switch-Bracket-Done.JPG|Press the switch into the adapter.
File:Assembly-Switch-Bracket-Insertion-into-Base.JPG|From the inside of the robot, line up the switch/adapter with the switch hole.
File:Assembly-Switch-Bracket-in-Base.JPG|While holding the switch/adapter in place, insert screws from the outside of the robot.
</gallery>
** STEP 5C: If you do not have a "QuickBuild" version of the kit, then make all the connections listed in the ELECTRICAL CONNECTIONS section of these instructions below. Be extremely careful about the power connections. Double check all connections before powering on. If you do have a QuickBuild kit, all the connections are already made for you.
[[File:Servo-Horn-Orientation.png|thumb|right|The servo horn should come straight out from the body at a 90 degree angle as shown here. Do not turn the servo shaft by hand until after it has moved under power!]]
* '''STEP 6: Power up!''' Make sure the on/off switch is off, and the knob is turned to STOP. Insert batteries and power on the robot using the on/off switch. You should hear a beep, a pause, then a second beep. The servos should all twitch into position. If the robot does not move at all, immediately turn the switch off and check your connections again. If some of the servos don't move (especially any you marked during the servo pre-check) then gently push them with power off to see if you can free them up. If they still won't move, try pushing them with power applied, but turn off the power within 30 seconds if they're locked up. If you can't get the servo to move it will need to be replaced.
* '''STEP 7: Insert Servo Horns.''' The servo horns are all at random angles right now due to the servo pre-check. In this step we'll make them point in the right direction. The knee servos are not at 90 degrees when the knob is all the way counter clockwise, rather they are at a 30 degree standing angle. We need to get them to 90 degrees so its easy to align the servo horn. Turn the knob very slightly clockwise and you will see all the knee servos twitch. This is "adjust servo horn mode". All servos (knees and hips) are now at their halfway point, 90 degrees. Now you need to take each single arm servo horn and carefully insert it on the shaft so that it is sticking straight out as shown in the figure. You will not always be able to make the horn come totally straight out. This is because there are only 22 little groves (splines) in each shaft, meaning you can in general only come within about 8 degrees of being at a perfect 90 degree angle. This amount of error is acceptable, just get it as close as you can. It is better for the horn to be a little too much clockwise than to be a little too much counterclockwise, especially for the knees. Do this for all hip and knee servos. Do not insert any screws yet.
[[File:Servo-Bracket-Alignment-v1.png|thumb|350px|right|Align the leg hinges as shown here. The bumps (see arrows) should both be near each other when properly aligned. Hold one in each hand with the ends of the U shape between thumb and forefinger.]]
* '''STEP 8: Assemble the leg hinges'''. Each leg hinge is composed of two identical U-shaped parts. Take one in each hand and align the two so that the bump (shown in the diagram at the right) are both near each other. Turn one 90 degrees with respect to the other.
**Gently squeeze each piece between thumb and forefinger, which causes the little jaws in the center to open up slightly. Work the two halves together. Squeeze just enough so they work their way on, no more or you might break the part!.
**At this stage, you may notice that the parts are loosely clamped on each other. Don't worry! When you place the leg hinges over a servo, the servo will spread it apart and they will lock together tightly.
* '''STEP 9: Attach Leg Hinges.''' The leg hinges connect the hips to the knees. They only go on one way. First place the end that matches the servo horn on, then you need to very slightly bend the U shaped piece while pulling it over the hemispherical bearing on the other side. It's a little easier to do the knees (servos mounted to legs) first, followed by the hips (servos on base).
**NOTE: It should not be excessively difficult to push the hinge over the hemispherical bearing. If you find you are struggling, that means the hinges are too tight. This may affect walking. This can be due to the kind of plastic you used or how your printer is adjusted. You may need to gently spread the two legs of the U shape by hand before putting the hinge on the robot. Be careful of course not to break the hinge.
* '''STEP 10: Test Knee Positions.''' Turn the knob fully counter clockwise (to STOP) and the robot will go into "stand still" mode. Place it on a level surface such as a table top. Do all of the legs touch the ground? If one or more legs don't touch the ground, you need to adjust the servo horn on the knee a little bit so it does touch. Gently pull off the servo bracket. Pull the servo horn off, and put it back on just a little bit moved so the leg would move closer to the ground. Put the servo bracket back on, and see how it looks. Do this until all legs are at least slightly touching the ground. Again, you can't necessarily be perfect due to the 8 degree increments the servo horns can be moved. But you should be able to be close enough that all legs at least slightly touch the ground.
* '''STEP 11: Insert Servo Screws.''' Now that the legs are adjusted, you can insert the M2.5x8 screws into the servo horns to lock them in place. Note that you will NOT be using the screws that were in the little bag the servos came in, you'll be using the separate pack of screws, which are longer than the ones in the servo bag. Do not overtighten these screws, as you could possibly crack the servo brackets. Just turn the screws until you start to feel resistance, then turn a quarter turn more and stop.
* '''STEP 12: Test Individual Servos.''' To test whether every servo is working, put the robot on its stand. Then start with the knob on STOP, then slowly turn it clockwise. First the servos will go into adjust mode, you used that a moment ago to set the servo horns. But, keep going, and the robot will go into "individual servo test mode". In this mode, every hip servo will move, one by one. When all the hips have moved, every leg will move, one by one. You should see every servo move, in order. If some don't move, check your connections. A common error is to plug a servo connector into the servo controller backwards (i.e. the brown wire is matched with the yellow pin instead of the black pin).
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| <youtube>5T7E1IqHxNc|Electronics Caddy Tutorial</youtube>
|}
* '''STEP 13: Test Using Demo Mode.''' Ok, everything looks good, so time for a full test. Turn the knob to STOP, then take the robot off the stand and put it on the floor. Turn the knob to DEMO, and the robot will go through a series of movements to demonstrate some of the things it can do. The full demo only takes about 30 seconds, then repeats. Here, you are looking for the robot to, for example, be able to get back up off the floor after doing some of its dance moves. If the robot struggles to get off the floor, you may have a battery that is not fully charged, or there may be too much friction between the servo bracket and the little ball socket it sits in. A tiny bit of silicone lubricant will usually fix that problem, or just make sure those parts are cleaned up from 3D printing and don't have an excess strands of material that are causing friction. See the [[Vorpal Combat_Hexapod Troubleshooting Guide|Trouble Shooting Guide]] for more information about different kinds of issues that can occur.
* '''STEP 14: Store the Electronics in the Caddy''' Now things look pretty messy with all those wires hanging loose, let's clean it up by stowing them in the electronics caddy. Please reference the video and diagrams here for quick instructions.
** '''STEP 14A: Insert Caddy Bars''' Insert the two electronics caddy bars as shown in the diagrams below. Notice carefully how they are inserted. You may need to slightly squeeze the forked section at the end to work it into the hole. Once inside, it may be difficult to remove because it will snap into place, so be sure you're putting it in the right way.
<gallery mode=packed>
File:Electronics-Caddy-Insert-Bar.JPG|Here one bar has already been inserted, the other is being put into place. Notice the orientation, don't put it in upside down. The little nubs at the end should be facing the caddy.
</gallery>
** '''STEP 14B: Insert the Servo Controller and Arduino Nano''' The diagrams here do not show the wires to make them easier to visualize. Carefully insert the servo controller as shown, making sure you don't pull out any of the wires. You may need to wiggle the electronics caddy bar from side to side a bit so that components can slide past it during insertion. Notice that the end of the Servo controller with wires sticking out of it must go in last. Carefully insert the Arduino Nano as shown, making sure you don't pull out any of the wires. You may need to wiggle the electronics caddy bar from side to side a bit so that components can slide past it during insertion. Notice that the end of the Nano that has the USB port must go in last.
<gallery mode=packed>
File:Electronics-Caddy-Insert-ServoController.JPG|Insert the servo controller so it is sandwiched between the bar and the electronics caddy. Wires not shown for clarity.
File:Electronics-Caddy-Insert-Nano.JPG|Insert the Nano so that the USB port faces out away from the electronics caddy, this allows you to access it without disassembling the robot.
File:Electronics-Caddy-Assembled-Underside.JPG|This is what the underside of the electronics caddy looks like after inserting the Servo Controller and Arduino Nano. Wires not shown for clarity.
</gallery>
** '''STEP 14C: Insert the HC05 Bluetooth Module''' The diagrams here do not show the wires to make them easier to visualize. The HC05 Bluetooth module with a name beginning with "S" should be used for the robot. For example, the label will read something like "VORP S2944" (the number will differ). The one marked "M" will be used for the gamepad. Slide the HC05 into the side drawer as shown. When inserting, be careful not to pull out the wires, which will be a little tight. Work the wires into the little space provided so they stay clear of the robot's cap when it gets screwed on later.
<gallery mode=packed>
File:Electronics-Caddy-Insert-HC05.JPG|Insert the HC05 into the side drawer as shown.
File:Electronics-Caddy-Assembled-HC05.JPG|When fully inserted, the indicator light will still be visible through the small oval. The wires should be tucked into the little cavity near the pins of the HC05.
</gallery>
* '''STEP 15: Assemble the Cap'''
** '''STEP 15A: Put hook-and-loop dots in the Cap''' Insert a "hook" circular self-stick dot in each of the 10mm circular holder areas in the cap. Do not use the fuzzy "loop" side of the hook-and-loop pair, use the "hook" side of the pair. Press firmly so the glue backing sticks firmly to the plastic. NOTE: Older versions of this project used magnets on the cap and eye decorations. If you are assembling an older version, press the magnet into the cap firmly (you may need to use pliers) and make sure the marked face (north pole) is showing. On accessories like eyes, make sure the unmarked face (south pole) is showing.
** '''STEP 15B: Decorate''' If desired, use a permanent marker to color the Vorpal "V" on top of the Cap. Oil markers work well. On light colors of plastic a black permanent marker will also work.
** '''STEP 15C: Put Cap on the Hexapod''' Screw the cap on the robot by lining up the tabs with the matching slots in the rim of the base. Turn the cap clockwise to lock it in place. IMPORTANT: Do not press down on the robot to insert the cap when the robot is under power standing on its legs! You can damage the leg motors by doing this. It is best to turn the robot off, and either support the bottom of the Base with one hand and press the Cap on with the other, or set the Base down on the table top or floor with legs out to the sides so they don't take pressure.
* '''STEP 16: Bounce Pads''' There is a foam pad with a peel-off self-sticking side. This goes on the bottom of the robot. It allows dance moves that slam the robot to the floor to be safe for the robot's parts.
<gallery mode=packed>
File:Robot-Foam-Installation.JPG|Peel off the paper and stick the foam on the bottom of the robot.
</gallery>
* '''STEP 17: Warning Label''' There are two a self-stick choking hazard warning labels in the hexapod parts bag. Peel the backing off one of them and place it on the bottom of the robot, near the center of the foam. Retain the second label for the gamepad.

== Building the Gamepad ==
[[File:Gamepad-Overall-Assembly-Exploded.png|thumb|600px|right|Gamepad order of parts during assembly (wires not shown for clarity).]]
To go beyond demo mode, you need to build the Vorpal Gamepad. The Vorpal Gamepad allows you to call up many different actions by the hexapod such as walking, turning, dancing, or fighting. The gamepad can also be used as a transmitter to allow Scratch programs to wirelessly control your robot from a computer.

=== Part 1: Gamepad Electrical System (Skip if using a QuickBuild kit) ===

If you DO NOT have a "QuickBuild" version of our kit, then you must first assemble the electrical components of the gamepad as follows. Please SKIP this entire section if you have a QuickBuild version of our kit, and proceed to Part 2.

* '''STEP 1: Attach cables to the button matrix.''' Pull 8 wires off the Dupont wire bundle. The colors don't really matter so just take 8 adjacent wires and leave them together if possible. Carefully push these 8 wires, in order, onto the pins coming out of the 4x4 button matrix. Make sure the wire connectors don't "swap places" by twisting under each other, it is very important that the order be correct.
[[File:Gamepad-Electronics-Layout.png|thumb|right|400 px|Layout of Electronic Boards. Left to right: Arduino Nano, HC05 Bluetooth Module, and SD Card reader. (wires are left out of diagram for clarity)]]

* '''STEP 2: Attach cables to the yellow D-PAD buttons.''' Pull three wires off the Dupont wire bundle of the following colors: red, black, white. Plug the white wire into the yellow D-PAD button module's pin marked OUT (output). The middle pin marked VCC gets the red wire, and the pin marked GND gets the black wire.

* '''STEP 3: Connect the electrical system wires.''' Using the connections indicated in the section below on electrical wiring, plug in all the wires for the Arduino Nano, HC05 Bluetooth module, SD Card Reader, and button modules.

=== Part 2: Inserting Gamepad Components into Plastic Base ===

* '''STEP 1: Install the switch.'''
** If you printed version V1R8c or later, or you received printed parts from us in or after April, 2018: Gamepad Base designs before April, 2018 required a switch adapter to be installed in a similar way to the hexapod robot Base, however that was eliminated in version V1R8c of the Gamepad. With the new design you just leave the switch hanging out of the switch hole on the back of the base until you screw on the top of the gamepad, then you press fit the switch into the resulting rectangular hole.
** If you printed gamepad Base versions earlier than V1r8c or you received printed parts from us before April, 2018: Take the switch/battery assembly and use two #6-32 screws 1/2" long to attach it on the inside wall of the gamepad base, in the rectangular hole. The switch itself is sandwiched between the gamepad wall and a switch adapter (the same switch adapter model used for the robot is used for the gamepad, you need to print two of them). DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN THE SCREWS.

* ''' STEP 2: Place the buttons''' Place the 4x4 button matrix and also the yellow D-PAD button module in the matching places on the button bracket. The yellow D-PAD buttons should be placed down first, and you may need to slightly bend the pins downward. The 4x4 button matrix also should have its pins slightly bent downward, then its wires will go on top of the wires coming out of the yellow D-PAD button module.
**NOTE: The yellow caps on the D-PAD buttons are optional. We normally remove these because we have found that in demo situations some people, especially young children, will press the yellow buttons so hard that they dislodge the caps. They will press right back on, it's not a problem really, however they may think they broke the controller. We feel it's better just to take them off.

* '''STEP 3: Insert the Arduino Nano.''' The Arduino Nano should be oriented such that its USB port is coming out the square hole on the left side of the base, and all the outgoing wires from the Nano are coming out toward the front of the base. Once in place, gently push the side of the Nano opposite of the USB port until it clicks into place, securing it.

* ''' STEP 4: Insert the HC05 Bluetooth Module.''' Slip the HC05 Bluetooth module under the U shaped bracket near the center of the gamepad base. Its lights should be facing upward, they will be visible through holes in the top of the gamepad and this helps you know that the gamepad is turned on.

* '''STEP 5: Put it all together.''' Put the 9v battery clip inside the battery box area of the base. Place the button bracket on top of the base, then place the gamepad top on the button bracket, sandwiching the button modules in place. Align the four screw holes in the corners with the matching holes on the base and secure with four #6-32 screws 1/2" long. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN. NOTE: You might want to just put two screws in, and don't even put them all the way in, until you test the gamepad. In that way, if it does not work, you can easily open it back up to check connections.

'''STEP 6: Detect D-PAD Style''' Turn the gamepad's switch to the OFF (0) position, then insert a charged 9v battery. Hold down the top button on the D-PAD module (the one above the grouping of four directional buttons). While still holding this button, turn the switch to the ON (1) position, you should see lights come on inside the gamepad. Count slowly to ten, then release the D-PAD button. This procedure causes the gamepad to detect what kind of D-PAD is being used so that it may interpret the button presses correctly. You only need to do this once (or after swapping in a new D-PAD module, for example after a repair). The setting is stored in nonvolatile EEPROM on the gamepad's Arduino Nano.

* '''STEP 7: Test!''' Turn the switch to "0" (off). Connect a 9v battery to the 9v battery clip then slide the battery door onto the base. Turn the switch to "1" (on). Lights should be visible through the holes. Turn the hexapod's dial all the way clockwise, to "RC" thus putting it in Bluetooth mode. Turn the hexapod on and wait a few seconds for it to completely boot. Try to control the robot! Try hitting each of the top three rows of 4x4 matrix buttons (W, F, D) one by one, and test to make sure every mode functions. If most modes work but a couple do not, you may have swapped some wires coming off the matrix.

* '''STEP 8: Decorate''' If desired, use a marker to darken the Vorpal "V" symbol, the W, F, D, R markings, the 0 and 1 switch markings, and the record/play symbols under the 4x4 button matrix. This will make them more visible as well as making the gamepad look nicer. We like using oil based paint markers. For dark colored plastics, use a white oil paint marker, for light colored plastics use black, blue, or red to contrast with the plastic color.

'''STEP 9: Warning Label''' There were two a self-stick choking hazard warning labels in the hexapod parts bag. You used one for the robot. Peel the backing off the other and place it on the bottom of the gamepad, being sure not to interfere with the battery drawer.

= Trimming the Servos =
When you assembled the servo horns onto the servos, you probably were not able to get them all to come out exactly at a 90 degree angle. That's not your fault: the servo horns only have 22 possible positions in which they can be installed, so at best you can come within plus or minus 8 degrees of perfection.

Now that you have the gamepad working, you can make fine adjustments to the servo positions using "Trim Mode". In this special gamepad mode, you can adjust all the servos. These adjustments are saved in the robot's EEPROM, which is memory on the Nano that retains data even when powered off. So, you only need to trim once.

Complete instructions on how to use trim mode are in the wiki page: [[Vorpal The Hexapod Trim Mode Guide]].

NOTE: although this step is optional, it is recommended because your robot will walk straighter and all the servos will share equally in lifting the robot's weight, which will make them last longer.

=Assembling Game Accessories and Nameplates=
Most of the accessory pieces require no assembly, or just require press fitting magnets into round holes or attaching self-stick velcro.

When inserting magnets, the rule is: anything that attaches to the robot via the accessory port screws should have the dimpled side of the magnet ''showing'', and anything that is supposed to attach to the robot or a screwed-on accessory should have the dimple side ''down, not showing''.

Based on this rule, the dimpled side of the magnet should '''not''' show for these items:
* Flag
* Joust Rider
* Name plate

And the dimple ''should'' be showing for these items:
* Capture the Flag Arm
* Joust Lance

==Assembling Sensors==
The light sensor and ultrasonic rangefinder sensor can be assembled with two screws each. The sensor module is sandwiched in between two plastic pieces. These screws are in the Deluxe Parts Bag. The screws will self-thread into the plastic. Do not overtighten or you will strip the plastic and the screws won't hold. When the screw head is all the way down, stop turning.

The ultrasonic rangefinder sensor attaches to the accessory port screws.

The light sensor wedges into one of the slotted holes in the cap.
==Electrical Connections: Robot==

NOTE: If you have a QuickBuild version of our kit, this information is for reference only. All the connections are already made in QuickBuild kits. This information might still be useful if you are an advanced user who may want to add new electrical components or modify the system.

===NOTES ON JUMPER WIRES===

This section is for self-source builders and Bare Bones Kit builders. Quickbuild kits are pre-wired and electrical systems are fully tested, so you can skip this section if you have a Quickbuild kit.

====Wire Lengths====
There are two different lengths of female-female Dupont jumper wires used to make most connections. The longer ones (20cm) are only used for the Hexapod's accessory port connections. The shorter ones are used for all the connections on the Gamepad and all the connections on the Hexapod between the Arduino Nano, Servo controller and Bluetooth module.

====Wire Color Conventions====

Please follow these conventions when selecting wire colors:
* For +5V, Vin, and similar positive voltage connections, use either RED or ORANGE.
* For GND and other negative electrical connections, use BLACK or BROWN.
* For the connectors that sit at the mouth of the accessory port (used for optional sensors) colors are suggested below in the instructions. By following these suggestions you will make your life easier when connecting sensors!
* For all other connections, you can use any color you want, it's arbitrary.

====If Jumper Wires Are Too Loose====
Sometimes you will find a wire whose connector does not grip the pin well enough. It might fall off very easily or just by gravity alone. If that happens, you have a few options:
* There are extra wires in your kit. If you find a wire that's too loose, just use a different wire.
* Using the hex key, you can put the jumper housing on a flat surface then press on the metal showing through the plastic connector, which will tighten up the jumper wire's grip. Don't go too overboard on pressing though or you might make it too hard to insert.
* Alternatively, you could use electrical tape after inserting all the wires on a module (such as the Nano) to effectively attach together all the little plastic female connector housings. In that way, the connectors that do grip will help hold in the ones that are too loose. Some people also like using hot glue for this purpose. (Personally, I don't like using hot glue, as it makes it harder to change connections if you hooked something up incorrectly.)

===NANO PIN CONNECTIONS (Bare Bones Kit/Reference)===
NOTE: If you are using our Quickbuild kit, this information is for reference only. Quickbuild kit wiring is already completed and tested.

[[File:Hexapod-Nano-Diagram.JPG|thumb|600px|right|Diagram of Nano connections for the Hexapod. Jumpers marked AP are routed to the Accessory Port for use with add-ons like sensors. Click for larger image.]]
* ''Digital IO Pins:''
** D0, D1 are reserved because they are used for uploading programs to the robot, so nothing will be connected there.
** D2 Bluetooth Module Rx
** D3 Bluetooth Module Tx
** D4 Buzzer Signal (white wire)
** D5, D6 NO CONNECTION. These pins are reserved for future expansion.
** D7 20cm GREEN Dupont connector routed to accessory port, used for Ultrasonic Rangefinder TRIG
** D8 20cm BLUE Dupont connector routed to accessory port, used for Ultrasonic Rangefinder ECHO
** D9 No connection. This pin is reserved for future expansion.
** D10 through D13 are reserved for the optional CMUCAM5 (Pixie) sensor accessory.

* ''Analog Pins:''
** A0 Potentiometer signal (white wire)
** A1 Potentiometer Power (red wire)
** A2 Potentiometer Ground (black wire)
** A3 20cm YELLOW Dupont connector routed to the accessory port, for the optional light sensor or other analog sensors.
** A4 Servo Controller SDA
** A5 Servo Controller SCL
** A6 20cm PURPLE Dupont connector, routed to the accessory port, for any analog sensor you wish to optionally add later.
** A7 No connection, reserved for future use.

* ''Power Pins:''
** VIN pin on Nano connects to Battery positive (the red Dupont connector coming off near the switch on the wiring module)
** GND pin on Nano connects to Battery negative (the black Dupont connector coming off the battery black wire)
** Second GND pin on Nano (there are two GND pins on the Nano) connects to the GND pin on the HC05 module
** +5V on Nano connects to HC05 +5V Pin

IMPORTANT NOTE: The red Dupont connector coming off the switch/battery assembly must go to VIN and never +5V, because the battery voltage is much higher than +5 volts. You will more or less instantly destroy your Nano if you put unregulated battery power directly into the +5V pin. The VIN pin has its own voltage regulator. The +5V pin on the Nano will be used to provide regulated power to the Bluetooth module.

=== Bluetooth Module Power ===
* +5V on HC05 connects to Nano +5V pin
* GND on HC05 connects to either of the two Nano GND pins

=== Buzzer Power ===
* Connect the buzzer V+ and ground (marked "-") pins (red and black respectively) to Port 13 of the Servo Controller, matching black and red wires to black and red pins on the Servo Controller. You will be using the special three wire cable provided for this purpose. It has a three-pin connector one one side, and the other side has a two-pin connector and a one-pin connector. The one-pin connector goes to the Nano and provides the signal to drive the buzzer. The two-pin connector is plugged into Servo Controller Port 13.

=== Servo Controller ===
[[File:ServoController-Pin-Labels.JPG|thumb|600px|right|Diagram of Servo Controller pins you will use in this project. Each servo motor has a 3 wire connector. Match the brown servo wire with the black color coded pin in its servo port, match the yellow wire with the yellow pin. Click for larger image.]]
* Connect the 12 servos to port numbers corresponding to the servo marking (0 to 11). Make sure the signal wire (yellow) is oriented correctly and matches the yellow plastic header pin.
* Connect the switch/battery module regulated BEC output (a three pin Dupont connector where only two of the pins are populated, one with a red V+ wire, one with a black ground wire) to servo controller port 12 power and ground. Make sure the RED wire is going to VCC (red pin) and the BLACK wire goes to GND (black pin).
* On one short side of the Servo Controller you will find a VCC and V+ pin right next to each other. Use a shunt (small black connector that goes over two pins) to connect those together if one is not already installed. This shunt causes both the servos and the microprocessor to run at the same +5V level.
* SDA and SCL go to A4 and A5 on the Nano, respectively.
* Servo port 12 RED and BLACK pins are connected to the output of the BEC. Make sure the BEC RED wire matches with the RED pin, and the BEC BALCK wire matches with the BLACK pin.
* Servo port 13 RED and BLACK pins are connected to the passive buzzer power connector. Make sure the buzzer BLACK wire matches the BLACK pin, and the RED wire matches the RED pin.
* Servo port 14 RED pin goes to a 20cm ORANGE Dupont connector and is routed to the accessory port to provide +5V for sensors or other accessories.
* Servo port 14 BLACK pin goes to a 20cm BROWN Dupont connector and is routed to the accessory port to provide GND for sensors or other accessories.
* Servo port 15 RED terminal goes to a 20cm RED Dupont connector and is routed to the accessory port to provide +5V for sensors or other accessories.
* Servo port 15 BLACK terminal goes to 20cm BLACK Dupont connector and is routed to the accessory port to provide ground for sensors or other accessories.
* Servo port 15 signal terminal goes to 20cm WHITE Dupont connector and is routed to the accessory port to provide signal for a servo used in an optional accessory.

===Accessory Port Wire Bundle===
The 20cm wires connected to the Nano and Servo Controller provide access to digital ports, analog ports, and power for accessories such as sensors, lights, or other projects. These wires should be bundled up near their unconnected ends (a rubber band works well for keeping them all together) and routed to the large opening below the accessory port hex head screws on the chassis. When there is no accessory in use, these wires can remain tucked inside the accessory port. When needed, pull them out a few inches and connect to sensors or other electrical accessories.

=== Connecting the HC-SR04 Ultrasonic Rangefinder to the Accessory Port ===
When building the robot you routed longer jumper wires (20cm) to the accessory port. You need four of these wires to use the Ultrasonic Rangefinder:

* RED accessory port wire goes to HC-SR04 VCC
* BLACK accessory port wire goes to HC-SR04 GND
* GREEN accessor port wire goes to HC-SR04 TRIG
* BLUE accessory port wire goes to HC-SR04 ECHO

The Scratch block assumes you've used this setup.

=== Connecting the Light Sensor (or any Arduino compatible 5 volt analog sensor) ===
* RED or ORANGE accessory port wire goes to the center pin, which is usually unmarked (may also be marked +5V, Vcc or Vin) on the sensor
* BLACK or BROWN accessory port wire goes to the ground pin on the sensor, which is usually marked with a minus sign (-) or may be marked GND or G.
* YELLOW (A3) accessory port wire goes to the Signal pin on the sensor. This is often marked (S) but on some sensors may have other markings.
** You may also use PURPLE (A6) for a sensor (or a second sensor)
** The Scratch Sensor block allows you to choose A3 (YELLOW) or A6 (PURPLE) sensor ports.

=== A note on how many things can be connected through the accessory port===
We are providing two sets of power connectors at the accessory port for sensors or other accessories. RED/BLACK and ORANGE/BROWN each respectively provide +5V/GND. It's up to you what things you want to connect using these. You could have one or two sensors, you could have a sensor and some kind off motorized accessory. You could have a sensor and an LED light strip, etc.

Nothing is stopping you from creating a Y connector to make additional power connections, except that there is a limit of 3 amps of current that you can pull from the battery/BEC system. The robot itself needs up to 2.5 amps during fast motions. But many sensors can operate on just a few milliamps. Adding a motorized accessory is where you would need to be careful about how much current you're pulling from the system. If you pull too much current, typically the BEC will overheat and go into thermal protection mode, which will shut down all the motors until you reboot the robot. It is possible to use a mini servo under moderate load for a motorized accessory, but a full sized servo under heavy load might be too much. Use caution when designing your own accessories, especially if they are going to use more than a few hundred milliamps of current.

=== Robot Screw Sizes ===
* Servo horn screws: 12 x M2.5 by 8mm long
* Switch assembly: 2 x #6-32 by 1/2" long

==Electrical Connectons: Gamepad==
NOTE: If you have a QuickBuild version of our kit, this information is for reference only. All the connections are already made in QuickBuild kits. This information might still be useful if you are an advanced user who may want to add new electrical components or modify the system.

=== GAMEPAD NANO PIN CONNECTIONS ===
[[File:Gamepad-Nano-Diagram-v3.JPG|thumb|600px|right|Diagram of Nano connections for the Gamepad. Click for larger image.]]
* D2 through D9 are connected to the button matrix pins.Looking from the top of the button matrix module, the rightmost button matrix pin (labeled 1) goes to D9, second to right (labeled 2) to D8, etc.
* D10 to SD card CS (may be labelled SS on some SD card readers)
* D11 to SD card MOSI
* D12 to SD card MISO
* D13 to SD card SCK (may be labelled SCL on some SD card readers)

* A0 Unused
* A1 Dpad OUT (white wire)
* A2 Dpad VCC (red wire)
* A3 Dpad GND (black wire)
* A4 HC05 Bluetooth Module Rx
* A5 HC05 Bluetooth Module Tx
* A6, A7 Unused

* VIN battery/switch positive (red wire)
* GND Either ground on the Nano goes to the battery/switch negative (black wire)
* ICSP pin 4 (see diagram): SD card reader GND. Note: Quickbuild kits do not use this, there's an extra GND wire soldered into the circuit for the SD card reader.
* ICSP pin 6 (see diagram): SD card reader VCC. Note: Quickbuild kits do not use this, there's an extra +5V wire soldered into the circuit for the SD card reader.
* Nano +5V pin goes to HC05 +5V pin
* Nano GND pin (there are two, you can use either one) goes to HCO5 GND pin

=== GAMEPAD: Screw Sizes ===

* Gamepad Cover, 4 x #6-32 by 1/2" long
* For kits prior to October 2019: switch adapter assembly, 2 x #6-32 by 1/2" long

{{Vorpal Quick Links}}

Vorpal The Hexapod Assembly Instructions

2022-04-08T12:34:06Z

Vorpalwiki: /* Gamepad Build Video Tutorial (Bare Bones Kit) */

{{float_box|{{VCH Quick Links}} }}
==VIDEO BUILD INSTRUCTIONS==
Besides the printed instructions further down on this page, we have two great video build tutorials created by Teaching Tech, a great YouTube channel. Please consider subscribing to "Teaching Tech," as they have great 3d printing related videos.
The printed instructions are diagrams may still be helpful in conjunction with these videos.

===Fast Overview of Quick Build Kit Assembly===
This is an overview video showing the general build procedure in just a few minutes.
If the video does not play on your device (or you want full screen), go directly to YouTube with this link: [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SynKUki6sd8 Vorpal Quick Build Overview Video]
 
<youtube>SynKUki6sd8|Vorpal Quick Build Kit Overview Video</youtube>
 

===Gamepad Build Video Tutorial (Bare Bones Kit)===
This is a detailed build video for the Bare Bones version of the Gamepad. If you have a Quick Build kit, all of the wiring is already done so you can skip a lot of this video. It is useful for showing how to place the components in the plastic case, which is the same procedure for Quick Build.

IMPORTANT NOTE: The kit was simplified after this video was made, there is no longer any power switch retainer plastic part. The power switch simply snaps into the gamepad housing directly without any screws.

If the video does not play on your device (or you want full screen), go directly to YouTube with this link: [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9ePTrEtEFWI TEACHING TECH GAMEPAD BUILD VIDEO]
 
<youtube>9ePTrEtEFWI|Gamepad Build</youtube>
 

===Hexapod Build Video Tutorial (Bare Bones Kit)===
If the video below does not play on your device (or you want full screen), go directly to YouTube with this link: [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cf1dBCwsE0o&rel=0 TEACHING TECH ROBOT BUILD VIDEO]

IMPORTANT NOTE: This video was made using the "Bare Bones" kit which requires a lot more assembly than the current "Quick Build" kits. It may still be useful for reference, because many of the steps are the same, such as plugging the servo wires into the servo controller. But there is no longer any need to make individual wire connections to the nano, for example, so those parts of the video can be skipped if you have the Quick Build kit.
 
<youtube>cf1dBCwsE0o|Hexapod Build</youtube>
 

==BILL OF MATERIALS (BOM) FOR VORPAL H12 HEXAPOD==
===Notes on Sourcing Parts===
* Full kits of parts as well as individual parts are available on [http://vorpal-robotics-store.myshopify.com The Vorpal Robotics Store]. If you are new to Arduino, wiring, and robotics we strongly recommend you purchase a kit instead of trying to self-source parts. The kits cut 3 to 4 hours off the build time, bringing it to typically 1 to 1.5 hours for Quickbuild kits and 2 to 2.5 hours for Bare Bones kits. The kits have all soldering done, programs are already loaded on the Nanos, Bluetooth modules are properly configured to auto-pair on boot, and you know you have all the right parts to work together.
* These instructions assume you have purchased a kit from us. If you are sourcing your own parts, please be aware of the following additional information:
**If you are sourcing your own parts, you need to build the switch/battery connector assembly. For diagrams see [[Vorpal Combat Hexapod Battery/Switch Construction]].
**Also see important information on that page if you are sourcing your own BEC.
**If you are sourcing your own Bluetooth modules, please be aware that you will need to configure them to auto-pair and to have a UART speed of 38400 BAUD. Every module brand is a bit different so it's not possible for us to give you universal instructions on how to program them. We assume that if you source your own parts you are familiar with how to configure Bluetooth modules using AT-commands.
* IMPORTANT NOTE ON SELF-SOURCED HC05 MODULES: It has come to our attention that some vendors are now selling HC05 modules that have an issue that causes extremely long lag times on transmissions (1.5 to 2 full seconds) due to an unusual way of buffering output. This makes the robot unusable due to nonresponsiveness. Unfortunately there is no visible model number or other information that allows you to tell which ones will have this issue just by looking at the vendor's listing. Please be aware that the HC05 modules we sell are the correct ones that don't have this issue. We are working on software changes that might solve this problem by changing how we pad out our radio packets, however that is considered beta code at this point (it might affect scratch programs). We are actively looking for some way to distinguish the bad modules from the good ones but there are just too many variations of this chip to be sure. In addition, some of the bad modules also have an issue where they overheat. The overheating does not have to do with the 3.3v TR pin, it happens even if a voltage divider is used on TR. We believe that one is just a defect in the circuit board. The bottom line is, yeah, you're getting extra value when you buy parts from us: we stand behind them and we make sure they work with this project.

=== ROBOT BOM ===
[[File:Choking-Hazard-Image.jpg|right|350px]]

* ''Electronics:''
** Passive Piezo Buzzer module and 3 wire cable (see image) [[File:Passive-Piezo-Buzzer-Module.jpg|right|thumb|Passive Piezo Buzzer Module]]
** Arduino Nano, 5V, 16 mHz, ATMEGA328 or similar (marked R in our kit to indicate it is pre-loaded with robot software)
** Rotary potentiometer, 10K Ohms, 6mm shaft diameter, with 3 wires pre-soldered. Also, matching dial cap and nut.
** 1 x HC05 BlueTooth Module with 4 x F-F jumper wires for making connections (Note: the HC05 has six pins but only four are used in this project. Also, this is in the Gamepad Parts bag if you purchase our kit.)
** 1 x Servo Controller module (Adafruit 16-channel 12-bit I2C PWM/Servo driver or Adafruit clone) with F-F jumper wires for making connections, plus 1 two-pin shunt tying V+ to VCC
** 12 x MG90 micro servo motors and associated servo horns (you will only use the single-arm horn). NOTE: If your kit includes O-rings or washers, you will need to use those on the shaft of the hip servos only. These are needed for digital servos only. Many counterfeit servos claim to be digital but are really analog and don't need the washers. For more information see [[Tower Pro MG90S Vs. Clones]].
** 1 x Power distribution wiring with on/off switch, Battery holder for two 18650 cells, 3A 5V BEC, and female connectors to distribute power. If you are self-sourcing see our [[Vorpal The Hexapod Battery/Switch Construction|Circuit Diagrams]].
* ''3D Printed Parts:''
** 1 x Chassis
** 1 x Cap
** 6 x Legs (individually marked with servo numbers)
** 1 x Switch adapter
** 12 x Servo bracket U-shaped halves
** 1 x Electronics Caddy
** 1 x Stand
** 1 x Eye/glasses Decoration
** 1 x Joust game accessory with "rider"
** 1 x Capture the Flag game accessory with flag and cup.
** 1 x Fidget Spinner Challenge game accessory (no Fidget Spinner, just the stand)
** 1 x Ultrasonic Rangefinder Bracket
* ''Miscellaneous:''
** 9 x 10mm diameter pairs of hook and loop self-stick circular dots. These go on the hexapod cap (hook) and accessories like eyes and nameplates (loop).
** 7 x 10mm diameter by 3mm thick ceramic magnet, north pole marked. These are for Capture-the-Flag and Joust accessories. (Note: Not included in Bare Bones kit).
** 12 x socket head cap screw, 2.5mm diameter by 8mm long (for servo horns)
** 3 x #6-32 x 1/2" screw to fasten on/off switch adapter (2) and to hold electronics caddy on chassis (3)
** 2 x #6-32 x 3/4" screw for bottom two holes in accessory port.
** 2 x #6-32 x 1/2" screw for top two holes in the accessory port.
** 4 x #6-32 nuts to hold screws in accessory port.
** 2 x #6-32 wingnuts to attach accessories to accessory port.
** 1 x L shaped hex driver, 2mm, for both kinds of screw used in the kit.

=== GAMEPAD BOM ===
[[File:Choking-Hazard-Image.jpg|right|350px]]
* ''Electronics:''
** 1 x Battery/Switch Wiring Unit with 9v battery clip. (Note: the gamepad requires no BEC so you can use this fact to distinguish from the robot wiring unit)
** 1 x 4x4 button matrix with associated connecting wires. The matrix we use is marked YL-102 in the corner. See the picture. It's blue and has the keys number K1 through K16. You may be able to use others but the pin numbers may differ. [[File:4x4-Matrix.png|right|250px]]
** 1 x Dpad Button module with associated connecting wires. The one we use is marked Keyes_AD_Key and has yellow buttons and a red circuit board. See picture. [[File:Keyes-AD-Key.PNG|right|250px]]
** 1 x HC05 Bluetooth module and four wires to connect it
** 1 x microSD Card Reader module and six wires to connect it, and a microSD card that is compatible with the Arduino SD library. A microSD card is required for record/play features to work. The capacity should be 2 gb or less, either SD or SDHC format. The gamepad can be used to format the card for use by Arduino (hold down W4 while booting the gamepad, count to 10 slowly, release W4).
** 1 x Ardunio Nano, 5V, 16 mHz, ATMEGA328 or similar (marked "G" in our kit to indicate it is pre-loaded with Gamepad software). Note: For MAC users it is far easier to get Scratch to work if the gamepad Nano uses an FTDI serial chip instead of a CHG34X chip. Our kits use the more expensive FTDI version of the Nano in the Gamepad for this reason.
* ''3D Printed Plastic Parts:''
** 1 x Gamepad base plastic part
** 1 x Gamepad top plastic part
** 1 x Gamepad button carrier
** NOTE: Gamepad Base versions before April 2018 also required 1 x Switch Adapter
* ''Fasteners:''
** 4 x #6-32 x 1/2" screw to hold cover on gamepad (4) and also to hold switch adapter on base (2)
** NOTE: Gamepad Base versions before April 2018 also required 2 more of these screws to hold on the switch adapter.

=== Sensors ===
These are included in the Deluxe version of our kit. They're mainly useful for Scratch programming activities.
* 1 x HCSR04 Ultrasonic Rangefinder
* 1 x Analog Light sensor
* 1 x 30cm USB cord type A to mini

==3D Printing the Plastic Parts==

===Obtaining the STL Files===

You can find all the current STL files here: [http://tinyurl.com/VORPALFILES VORPAL FILES]. Go to the STL folder. The Vorpal Hexapod STLs are in the subfolder ROBOT and the gamepad parts are in GAMEPAD. There are subfolders with accessories (such as sensor housings and game pieces).

===Printing Notes and Tips===

This project has been finely tuned to make it easy to 3D print. No supports are required for any of the parts. In some cases you may want to use brims or rafts to help parts adhere to the print surface. There is minimal bridging, never farther than about 15mm (5/8"). Some of the parts do require some flexibility, for example the sides of the servo compartments need to bend outward while the servos are inserted, they then snap back into place when the servo is completely inserted. This means brittle plastics like PLA are not the best choice for this project. (Although we have made PLA hexapods and they do work if you're careful when inserting the servos).

This page assumes you have basic familiarity with 3D printing and 3D printing terminology. If not, you might want to reference online materials such as youtube videos or information from your 3D printer manufacturer before attempting this project.

If you are 3D printing the plastic parts (as opposed to buying them pre-printed), here are some tips.

* MINIMUM PRINTER REQUIREMENTS
** The bed size should be at least 150mm cube (5.9 inches cube). The largest part is the hexapod base so it is the limiting factor on bed size.
** A heated bed is strongly recommended, especially if you are printing in ABS.
* RECOMMENDED PLASTICS
** ABS and PETG both work well. When we sell Full Kits and Assembled Vorpals we use ABS.
** PLA is somewhat brittle, but it will work if you're careful. Inserting the servos into the legs and hips will somewhat flex the plastic so be careful during that process with PLA. Attaching the two halves of the leg hinges together can be more successful in PLA if you first soak the hinges in very hot tap water to soften up the plastic a bit.
* PRINT SETTINGS. We print using the following settings on a Lulzbot TAZ 6 or Lulzbot Mini with 0.5mm nozzle:
** 0.38 layer thickness (or whatever layer thickness is optimal for your printer)
** 1mm walls (i.e. two perimeters)
** 1.14mm top and bottom (i.e. three layers)
** 15% infill
** You can print with thinner layers if your printer does not support 0.38mm layers or if you want a more refined look, it will just take longer.
* BRIMS AND RAFTS
** Brims or rafts are recommended for the following hexapod parts: Base, Legs, Electronics Caddy, Cap. This ensures proper bed retention to avoid warping. These parts have relatively little contact area with the print bed, or have certain sections with little contact.
** Brims/rafts are not recommended on any of the other parts. The other parts generally have enough bed surface contact that they will print fine without brims. Your mileage may vary however and it is recommended that you keep a close eye on the first few layers of the print to make sure everything is sticking properly. If not, you can cancel the job with minimal loss of plastic then restart with brims or rafts.
** We personally prefer brims (such as available in Cura) as they are easy to remove and leave a clean look.
* POST PRINT
**Other than removing brims/rafts and the occasional drip, there is not any special post-processing required after printing.
**However, be very careful to inspect the hemispheres jutting out of one side of each of the servo holders, these need to be as low friction as possible. Inspect for drips and defects. If necessary, use a file or sand paper to smooth them out.

== Building the Robot ==

You will need the following tools:
* 2mm hex key. A 5/64 inch hex key will also work. This is in the Hexapod Parts bag. (NOTE: Some very early kits put this in the Deluxe Parts Bag).
* A marker that can write on dark plastic and still be seen, such as Sharpie Metallic or Sharpie Oil markers (white and yellow work great).
** This is the easiest way to mark servo wires with their corresponding leg number
** If you don't have these types of marker, you could use clear tape and bits of paper to tape wire labels near the socket end of the servo cable. Don't put labels right on the black plastic connectors at the end of the servo because you'll make them too thick to fit side by side when plugged in.
===Servo Pre Check===
Sometimes the servo motor gearbox will get locked up when sitting for a long time, for example during shipping, especially in cold weather. The following procedure will ensure they work properly. (Note: Some MG90S servo bags distributed in the past with our kits say not to turn the servo horn, these instructions supercede that note on the bag).

* Put a one-arm servo horn on each servo. You don't need a screw, just put it on in any random position for now.
* ''Slowly'' and ''gently'' rock the servo horn by hand so it turns. Do not use a lot of force. Note that there is a physical stop that only allows it to turn 180 degrees. If you push in one direction and it won't move, rock it in the other direction.
* As soon as it moves, even just 10 or 20 degrees in either direction, you've confirmed the servo is not locked. Do not leave it at an extreme position where it stops, leave it somewhere around the middle.
If any servo fails to move with modest pressure and a gentle rocking motion, put a mark on that servo, near where the wire comes out. It will most likely unfreeze when power is applied, but you need to keep an eye on it for now.

===Step by Step Instructions===

*'''STEP 1: Insert accessory port screws in the chassis''' Insert 5/8" #6-32 hex head screws in the bottom two holes of the accessory port, head of the screw inside the hexapod, then tighten nuts outside. Repeat for the top two accessory holes with shorter 1/2" #6-32 hex head screws. The heads of the screws recess into hexogonal holes so you don't need to use pliers inside the robot body, just for the nuts. Two wingnuts go on the two lower screws, these will be used to secure accessories such as the Joust lance or Capture-the-Flag attachment.
<gallery mode=packed>
File:Hexhead-Screw.JPG|Be sure to use the hex head screws for the accessory port.
File:Accessory-Port-Diagram-V2.JPG|The accessory port is considered the "front" of the robot.
File:Accessory-Port-Screws.JPG|Longer hex head screws go on the bottom. Do not overtighten the nuts.
File:Wing-Nuts-Installed.JPG|After installing the nuts, put the wingnuts on the bottom screws. They'll be used later to secure accessories.
</gallery>
*'''STEP 2: Insert servos in the chassis.'''
** Next, insert the servo into the chassis as shown in the diagrams below. As you insert the servo into the chassis, slowly press it straight into place until it clicks in under the small tab on one side of the servo holder. Make sure it stays straight as you push down.
** Immediately mark the black connector at the end of the wire to indicate the servo number (which is engraved in the top of the servo holder, a number between 0 and 5).
*** A metallic sharpie pen works very well for this, or a light colored oil paint sharpie such as white.
*** If you don't have any of those things, a little piece of masking tape can be affixed to the wire and marked, or you could use clear cellophane tape to attach little bits of marked paper to the wire. Do not attach any tape or paper to the black connector, as it will be a tight fit when connecting later.
*** The wire coming out of the servo sticks out away from the robot, the servo shaft would face down toward the table top if the chassis were resting on the table.
** After inserting the servo, thread the wire through the top servo wire guide hole, and into the center of the chassis.
[[File:ServoChassisInsert.png|400px|Insert Servo in Chassis]]
[[File:spacerimage.png|100px|Insert Servo in Chassis]]
[[File:ServoHipInserted.png|140px|Insert Servo in Chassis]]
* '''STEP 3: Insert the servos in the Legs.''' The technique is very similar to inserting the servo into the chassis.
**Insert the servo straight into the leg socket so that the wire is coming out of the servo facing away from the plastic leg and the face of the servo with the shaft and servo horn goes into the open faced side of the leg, as shown in the diagram.
**The servos in the legs are called the "knee" servos. Each leg has a higher number on it, this is the knee number, they run from 6 to 11. Again, write this number on the black connector at the end of the servo wire. PRO TIP: For 6 and 9, underline the number so you don't read them upside down!
[[File:Servo-Insert-Leg-v2.png|350px|Insert Servo in Legs]]
[[File:spacerimage.png|100px|Insert Servo in Chassis]]
[[File:Servo-Leg-Inserted-v2.png|350px|Insert Servo in Legs]]
* '''STEP 4: Thread each leg servo wire''' into the bottom wire guide slot on the chassis. Each leg servo should be matched with a hip servo plus 6. The legs are marked with the hip number near the top and the knee number below that. For example, the leg marked 6 should be threaded through the wire guide on hip servo 0, leg 7 goes with hip 1, leg 8 goes with hip 2, etc. Add 6 to the hip number to get the leg number.
* '''STEP 5: Build the electrical system.''' You need to power up the servos and make them seek to the 90 degree position, this will allow you to adjust the legs properly for walking.
** STEP 5A: Take the potentiometer and remove the cap, then unscrew the nut and set these items aside for now. Push the potentiometer shaft from the inside of the chassis, into the hole that has the markings "STOP", "TST", etc. The wires coming out of the potentiometer should be pointing down and you may need to bend them a bit to make it all fit. Put the retaining nut on the potentiometer, hand tighten first and then give it just another half turn or so with pliers if desired. Turn the knob all the way counter clockwise, then insert the knob so it points to the letter "O" in the word "STOP".
** STEP 5B: Find the on/off switch (which is attached to the battery holder assembly). There was a change to how this was installed in October, 2019. The older version requires a "switch adapter," while the new version just uses a slot to feed in the wires. The two sets of diagrams below illustrate both the old and the new way of installing the switch.
New Version Switch Installation:
<gallery mode=packed heights=200>
File:NewSwitchInstall-Step1.jpg|Thread the switch and its wires through the Base, there is an opening under the switch hole.
File:NewSwitchInstall-Step2.jpg|Bring the wires up through the slot below the switch hole.
File:NewSwitchInstall-Step3.jpg|Press the switch into the hole, it should snap into place. The "1" should be on top.
</gallery>
Old Version Switch Installation (before about mid October 2019):
<gallery mode=packed>
File:Assembly-Switch-Bracket-Insertion.JPG|Thread the wires through the gap in the adapter
File:Assembly-Switch-Bracket-Done.JPG|Press the switch into the adapter.
File:Assembly-Switch-Bracket-Insertion-into-Base.JPG|From the inside of the robot, line up the switch/adapter with the switch hole.
File:Assembly-Switch-Bracket-in-Base.JPG|While holding the switch/adapter in place, insert screws from the outside of the robot.
</gallery>
** STEP 5C: If you do not have a "QuickBuild" version of the kit, then make all the connections listed in the ELECTRICAL CONNECTIONS section of these instructions below. Be extremely careful about the power connections. Double check all connections before powering on. If you do have a QuickBuild kit, all the connections are already made for you.
[[File:Servo-Horn-Orientation.png|thumb|right|The servo horn should come straight out from the body at a 90 degree angle as shown here. Do not turn the servo shaft by hand until after it has moved under power!]]
* '''STEP 6: Power up!''' Make sure the on/off switch is off, and the knob is turned to STOP. Insert batteries and power on the robot using the on/off switch. You should hear a beep, a pause, then a second beep. The servos should all twitch into position. If the robot does not move at all, immediately turn the switch off and check your connections again. If some of the servos don't move (especially any you marked during the servo pre-check) then gently push them with power off to see if you can free them up. If they still won't move, try pushing them with power applied, but turn off the power within 30 seconds if they're locked up. If you can't get the servo to move it will need to be replaced.
* '''STEP 7: Insert Servo Horns.''' The servo horns are all at random angles right now due to the servo pre-check. In this step we'll make them point in the right direction. The knee servos are not at 90 degrees when the knob is all the way counter clockwise, rather they are at a 30 degree standing angle. We need to get them to 90 degrees so its easy to align the servo horn. Turn the knob very slightly clockwise and you will see all the knee servos twitch. This is "adjust servo horn mode". All servos (knees and hips) are now at their halfway point, 90 degrees. Now you need to take each single arm servo horn and carefully insert it on the shaft so that it is sticking straight out as shown in the figure. You will not always be able to make the horn come totally straight out. This is because there are only 22 little groves (splines) in each shaft, meaning you can in general only come within about 8 degrees of being at a perfect 90 degree angle. This amount of error is acceptable, just get it as close as you can. It is better for the horn to be a little too much clockwise than to be a little too much counterclockwise, especially for the knees. Do this for all hip and knee servos. Do not insert any screws yet.
[[File:Servo-Bracket-Alignment-v1.png|thumb|350px|right|Align the leg hinges as shown here. The bumps (see arrows) should both be near each other when properly aligned. Hold one in each hand with the ends of the U shape between thumb and forefinger.]]
* '''STEP 8: Assemble the leg hinges'''. Each leg hinge is composed of two identical U-shaped parts. Take one in each hand and align the two so that the bump (shown in the diagram at the right) are both near each other. Turn one 90 degrees with respect to the other.
**Gently squeeze each piece between thumb and forefinger, which causes the little jaws in the center to open up slightly. Work the two halves together. Squeeze just enough so they work their way on, no more or you might break the part!.
**At this stage, you may notice that the parts are loosely clamped on each other. Don't worry! When you place the leg hinges over a servo, the servo will spread it apart and they will lock together tightly.
* '''STEP 9: Attach Leg Hinges.''' The leg hinges connect the hips to the knees. They only go on one way. First place the end that matches the servo horn on, then you need to very slightly bend the U shaped piece while pulling it over the hemispherical bearing on the other side. It's a little easier to do the knees (servos mounted to legs) first, followed by the hips (servos on base).
**NOTE: It should not be excessively difficult to push the hinge over the hemispherical bearing. If you find you are struggling, that means the hinges are too tight. This may affect walking. This can be due to the kind of plastic you used or how your printer is adjusted. You may need to gently spread the two legs of the U shape by hand before putting the hinge on the robot. Be careful of course not to break the hinge.
* '''STEP 10: Test Knee Positions.''' Turn the knob fully counter clockwise (to STOP) and the robot will go into "stand still" mode. Place it on a level surface such as a table top. Do all of the legs touch the ground? If one or more legs don't touch the ground, you need to adjust the servo horn on the knee a little bit so it does touch. Gently pull off the servo bracket. Pull the servo horn off, and put it back on just a little bit moved so the leg would move closer to the ground. Put the servo bracket back on, and see how it looks. Do this until all legs are at least slightly touching the ground. Again, you can't necessarily be perfect due to the 8 degree increments the servo horns can be moved. But you should be able to be close enough that all legs at least slightly touch the ground.
* '''STEP 11: Insert Servo Screws.''' Now that the legs are adjusted, you can insert the M2.5x8 screws into the servo horns to lock them in place. Note that you will NOT be using the screws that were in the little bag the servos came in, you'll be using the separate pack of screws, which are longer than the ones in the servo bag. Do not overtighten these screws, as you could possibly crack the servo brackets. Just turn the screws until you start to feel resistance, then turn a quarter turn more and stop.
* '''STEP 12: Test Individual Servos.''' To test whether every servo is working, put the robot on its stand. Then start with the knob on STOP, then slowly turn it clockwise. First the servos will go into adjust mode, you used that a moment ago to set the servo horns. But, keep going, and the robot will go into "individual servo test mode". In this mode, every hip servo will move, one by one. When all the hips have moved, every leg will move, one by one. You should see every servo move, in order. If some don't move, check your connections. A common error is to plug a servo connector into the servo controller backwards (i.e. the brown wire is matched with the yellow pin instead of the black pin).
{| class="wikitable" align=right style="float:right; background:transparent; margin: {{{margins|1em 1em 1em 1em}}}; {{{style|}}}"
|-
| <youtube>5T7E1IqHxNc|Electronics Caddy Tutorial</youtube>
|}
* '''STEP 13: Test Using Demo Mode.''' Ok, everything looks good, so time for a full test. Turn the knob to STOP, then take the robot off the stand and put it on the floor. Turn the knob to DEMO, and the robot will go through a series of movements to demonstrate some of the things it can do. The full demo only takes about 30 seconds, then repeats. Here, you are looking for the robot to, for example, be able to get back up off the floor after doing some of its dance moves. If the robot struggles to get off the floor, you may have a battery that is not fully charged, or there may be too much friction between the servo bracket and the little ball socket it sits in. A tiny bit of silicone lubricant will usually fix that problem, or just make sure those parts are cleaned up from 3D printing and don't have an excess strands of material that are causing friction. See the [[Vorpal Combat_Hexapod Troubleshooting Guide|Trouble Shooting Guide]] for more information about different kinds of issues that can occur.
* '''STEP 14: Store the Electronics in the Caddy''' Now things look pretty messy with all those wires hanging loose, let's clean it up by stowing them in the electronics caddy. Please reference the video and diagrams here for quick instructions.
** '''STEP 14A: Insert Caddy Bars''' Insert the two electronics caddy bars as shown in the diagrams below. Notice carefully how they are inserted. You may need to slightly squeeze the forked section at the end to work it into the hole. Once inside, it may be difficult to remove because it will snap into place, so be sure you're putting it in the right way.
<gallery mode=packed>
File:Electronics-Caddy-Insert-Bar.JPG|Here one bar has already been inserted, the other is being put into place. Notice the orientation, don't put it in upside down. The little nubs at the end should be facing the caddy.
</gallery>
** '''STEP 14B: Insert the Servo Controller and Arduino Nano''' The diagrams here do not show the wires to make them easier to visualize. Carefully insert the servo controller as shown, making sure you don't pull out any of the wires. You may need to wiggle the electronics caddy bar from side to side a bit so that components can slide past it during insertion. Notice that the end of the Servo controller with wires sticking out of it must go in last. Carefully insert the Arduino Nano as shown, making sure you don't pull out any of the wires. You may need to wiggle the electronics caddy bar from side to side a bit so that components can slide past it during insertion. Notice that the end of the Nano that has the USB port must go in last.
<gallery mode=packed>
File:Electronics-Caddy-Insert-ServoController.JPG|Insert the servo controller so it is sandwiched between the bar and the electronics caddy. Wires not shown for clarity.
File:Electronics-Caddy-Insert-Nano.JPG|Insert the Nano so that the USB port faces out away from the electronics caddy, this allows you to access it without disassembling the robot.
File:Electronics-Caddy-Assembled-Underside.JPG|This is what the underside of the electronics caddy looks like after inserting the Servo Controller and Arduino Nano. Wires not shown for clarity.
</gallery>
** '''STEP 14C: Insert the HC05 Bluetooth Module''' The diagrams here do not show the wires to make them easier to visualize. The HC05 Bluetooth module with a name beginning with "S" should be used for the robot. For example, the label will read something like "VORP S2944" (the number will differ). The one marked "M" will be used for the gamepad. Slide the HC05 into the side drawer as shown. When inserting, be careful not to pull out the wires, which will be a little tight. Work the wires into the little space provided so they stay clear of the robot's cap when it gets screwed on later.
<gallery mode=packed>
File:Electronics-Caddy-Insert-HC05.JPG|Insert the HC05 into the side drawer as shown.
File:Electronics-Caddy-Assembled-HC05.JPG|When fully inserted, the indicator light will still be visible through the small oval. The wires should be tucked into the little cavity near the pins of the HC05.
</gallery>
* '''STEP 15: Assemble the Cap'''
** '''STEP 15A: Put hook-and-loop dots in the Cap''' Insert a "hook" circular self-stick dot in each of the 10mm circular holder areas in the cap. Do not use the fuzzy "loop" side of the hook-and-loop pair, use the "hook" side of the pair. Press firmly so the glue backing sticks firmly to the plastic. NOTE: Older versions of this project used magnets on the cap and eye decorations. If you are assembling an older version, press the magnet into the cap firmly (you may need to use pliers) and make sure the marked face (north pole) is showing. On accessories like eyes, make sure the unmarked face (south pole) is showing.
** '''STEP 15B: Decorate''' If desired, use a permanent marker to color the Vorpal "V" on top of the Cap. Oil markers work well. On light colors of plastic a black permanent marker will also work.
** '''STEP 15C: Put Cap on the Hexapod''' Screw the cap on the robot by lining up the tabs with the matching slots in the rim of the base. Turn the cap clockwise to lock it in place. IMPORTANT: Do not press down on the robot to insert the cap when the robot is under power standing on its legs! You can damage the leg motors by doing this. It is best to turn the robot off, and either support the bottom of the Base with one hand and press the Cap on with the other, or set the Base down on the table top or floor with legs out to the sides so they don't take pressure.
* '''STEP 16: Bounce Pads''' There is a foam pad with a peel-off self-sticking side. This goes on the bottom of the robot. It allows dance moves that slam the robot to the floor to be safe for the robot's parts.
<gallery mode=packed>
File:Robot-Foam-Installation.JPG|Peel off the paper and stick the foam on the bottom of the robot.
</gallery>
* '''STEP 17: Warning Label''' There are two a self-stick choking hazard warning labels in the hexapod parts bag. Peel the backing off one of them and place it on the bottom of the robot, near the center of the foam. Retain the second label for the gamepad.

== Building the Gamepad ==
[[File:Gamepad-Overall-Assembly-Exploded.png|thumb|600px|right|Gamepad order of parts during assembly (wires not shown for clarity).]]
To go beyond demo mode, you need to build the Vorpal Gamepad. The Vorpal Gamepad allows you to call up many different actions by the hexapod such as walking, turning, dancing, or fighting. The gamepad can also be used as a transmitter to allow Scratch programs to wirelessly control your robot from a computer.

=== Part 1: Gamepad Electrical System (Skip if using a QuickBuild kit) ===

If you DO NOT have a "QuickBuild" version of our kit, then you must first assemble the electrical components of the gamepad as follows. Please SKIP this entire section if you have a QuickBuild version of our kit, and proceed to Part 2.

* '''STEP 1: Attach cables to the button matrix.''' Pull 8 wires off the Dupont wire bundle. The colors don't really matter so just take 8 adjacent wires and leave them together if possible. Carefully push these 8 wires, in order, onto the pins coming out of the 4x4 button matrix. Make sure the wire connectors don't "swap places" by twisting under each other, it is very important that the order be correct.
[[File:Gamepad-Electronics-Layout.png|thumb|right|400 px|Layout of Electronic Boards. Left to right: Arduino Nano, HC05 Bluetooth Module, and SD Card reader. (wires are left out of diagram for clarity)]]

* '''STEP 2: Attach cables to the yellow D-PAD buttons.''' Pull three wires off the Dupont wire bundle of the following colors: red, black, white. Plug the white wire into the yellow D-PAD button module's pin marked OUT (output). The middle pin marked VCC gets the red wire, and the pin marked GND gets the black wire.

* '''STEP 3: Connect the electrical system wires.''' Using the connections indicated in the section below on electrical wiring, plug in all the wires for the Arduino Nano, HC05 Bluetooth module, SD Card Reader, and button modules.

=== Part 2: Inserting Gamepad Components into Plastic Base ===

* '''STEP 1: Install the switch.'''
** If you printed version V1R8c or later, or you received printed parts from us in or after April, 2018: Gamepad Base designs before April, 2018 required a switch adapter to be installed in a similar way to the hexapod robot Base, however that was eliminated in version V1R8c of the Gamepad. With the new design you just leave the switch hanging out of the switch hole on the back of the base until you screw on the top of the gamepad, then you press fit the switch into the resulting rectangular hole.
** If you printed gamepad Base versions earlier than V1r8c or you received printed parts from us before April, 2018: Take the switch/battery assembly and use two #6-32 screws 1/2" long to attach it on the inside wall of the gamepad base, in the rectangular hole. The switch itself is sandwiched between the gamepad wall and a switch adapter (the same switch adapter model used for the robot is used for the gamepad, you need to print two of them). DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN THE SCREWS.

* ''' STEP 2: Place the buttons''' Place the 4x4 button matrix and also the yellow D-PAD button module in the matching places on the button bracket. The yellow D-PAD buttons should be placed down first, and you may need to slightly bend the pins downward. The 4x4 button matrix also should have its pins slightly bent downward, then its wires will go on top of the wires coming out of the yellow D-PAD button module.
**NOTE: The yellow caps on the D-PAD buttons are optional. We normally remove these because we have found that in demo situations some people, especially young children, will press the yellow buttons so hard that they dislodge the caps. They will press right back on, it's not a problem really, however they may think they broke the controller. We feel it's better just to take them off.

* '''STEP 3: Insert the Arduino Nano.''' The Arduino Nano should be oriented such that its USB port is coming out the square hole on the left side of the base, and all the outgoing wires from the Nano are coming out toward the front of the base. Once in place, gently push the side of the Nano opposite of the USB port until it clicks into place, securing it.

* ''' STEP 4: Insert the HC05 Bluetooth Module.''' Slip the HC05 Bluetooth module under the U shaped bracket near the center of the gamepad base. Its lights should be facing upward, they will be visible through holes in the top of the gamepad and this helps you know that the gamepad is turned on.

* '''STEP 5: Put it all together.''' Put the 9v battery clip inside the battery box area of the base. Place the button bracket on top of the base, then place the gamepad top on the button bracket, sandwiching the button modules in place. Align the four screw holes in the corners with the matching holes on the base and secure with four #6-32 screws 1/2" long. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN. NOTE: You might want to just put two screws in, and don't even put them all the way in, until you test the gamepad. In that way, if it does not work, you can easily open it back up to check connections.

'''STEP 6: Detect D-PAD Style''' Turn the gamepad's switch to the OFF (0) position, then insert a charged 9v battery. Hold down the top button on the D-PAD module (the one above the grouping of four directional buttons). While still holding this button, turn the switch to the ON (1) position, you should see lights come on inside the gamepad. Count slowly to ten, then release the D-PAD button. This procedure causes the gamepad to detect what kind of D-PAD is being used so that it may interpret the button presses correctly. You only need to do this once (or after swapping in a new D-PAD module, for example after a repair). The setting is stored in nonvolatile EEPROM on the gamepad's Arduino Nano.

* '''STEP 7: Test!''' Turn the switch to "0" (off). Connect a 9v battery to the 9v battery clip then slide the battery door onto the base. Turn the switch to "1" (on). Lights should be visible through the holes. Turn the hexapod's dial all the way clockwise, to "RC" thus putting it in Bluetooth mode. Turn the hexapod on and wait a few seconds for it to completely boot. Try to control the robot! Try hitting each of the top three rows of 4x4 matrix buttons (W, F, D) one by one, and test to make sure every mode functions. If most modes work but a couple do not, you may have swapped some wires coming off the matrix.

* '''STEP 8: Decorate''' If desired, use a marker to darken the Vorpal "V" symbol, the W, F, D, R markings, the 0 and 1 switch markings, and the record/play symbols under the 4x4 button matrix. This will make them more visible as well as making the gamepad look nicer. We like using oil based paint markers. For dark colored plastics, use a white oil paint marker, for light colored plastics use black, blue, or red to contrast with the plastic color.

'''STEP 9: Warning Label''' There were two a self-stick choking hazard warning labels in the hexapod parts bag. You used one for the robot. Peel the backing off the other and place it on the bottom of the gamepad, being sure not to interfere with the battery drawer.

= Trimming the Servos =
When you assembled the servo horns onto the servos, you probably were not able to get them all to come out exactly at a 90 degree angle. That's not your fault: the servo horns only have 22 possible positions in which they can be installed, so at best you can come within plus or minus 8 degrees of perfection.

Now that you have the gamepad working, you can make fine adjustments to the servo positions using "Trim Mode". In this special gamepad mode, you can adjust all the servos. These adjustments are saved in the robot's EEPROM, which is memory on the Nano that retains data even when powered off. So, you only need to trim once.

Complete instructions on how to use trim mode are in the wiki page: [[Vorpal The Hexapod Trim Mode Guide]].

NOTE: although this step is optional, it is recommended because your robot will walk straighter and all the servos will share equally in lifting the robot's weight, which will make them last longer.

=Assembling Game Accessories and Nameplates=
Most of the accessory pieces require no assembly, or just require press fitting magnets into round holes or attaching self-stick velcro.

When inserting magnets, the rule is: anything that attaches to the robot via the accessory port screws should have the dimpled side of the magnet ''showing'', and anything that is supposed to attach to the robot or a screwed-on accessory should have the dimple side ''down, not showing''.

Based on this rule, the dimpled side of the magnet should '''not''' show for these items:
* Flag
* Joust Rider
* Name plate

And the dimple ''should'' be showing for these items:
* Capture the Flag Arm
* Joust Lance

==Assembling Sensors==
The light sensor and ultrasonic rangefinder sensor can be assembled with two screws each. The sensor module is sandwiched in between two plastic pieces. These screws are in the Deluxe Parts Bag. The screws will self-thread into the plastic. Do not overtighten or you will strip the plastic and the screws won't hold. When the screw head is all the way down, stop turning.

The ultrasonic rangefinder sensor attaches to the accessory port screws.

The light sensor wedges into one of the slotted holes in the cap.
==Electrical Connections: Robot==

NOTE: If you have a QuickBuild version of our kit, this information is for reference only. All the connections are already made in QuickBuild kits. This information might still be useful if you are an advanced user who may want to add new electrical components or modify the system.

===NOTES ON JUMPER WIRES===

This section is for self-source builders and Bare Bones Kit builders. Quickbuild kits are pre-wired and electrical systems are fully tested, so you can skip this section if you have a Quickbuild kit.

====Wire Lengths====
There are two different lengths of female-female Dupont jumper wires used to make most connections. The longer ones (20cm) are only used for the Hexapod's accessory port connections. The shorter ones are used for all the connections on the Gamepad and all the connections on the Hexapod between the Arduino Nano, Servo controller and Bluetooth module.

====Wire Color Conventions====

Please follow these conventions when selecting wire colors:
* For +5V, Vin, and similar positive voltage connections, use either RED or ORANGE.
* For GND and other negative electrical connections, use BLACK or BROWN.
* For the connectors that sit at the mouth of the accessory port (used for optional sensors) colors are suggested below in the instructions. By following these suggestions you will make your life easier when connecting sensors!
* For all other connections, you can use any color you want, it's arbitrary.

====If Jumper Wires Are Too Loose====
Sometimes you will find a wire whose connector does not grip the pin well enough. It might fall off very easily or just by gravity alone. If that happens, you have a few options:
* There are extra wires in your kit. If you find a wire that's too loose, just use a different wire.
* Using the hex key, you can put the jumper housing on a flat surface then press on the metal showing through the plastic connector, which will tighten up the jumper wire's grip. Don't go too overboard on pressing though or you might make it too hard to insert.
* Alternatively, you could use electrical tape after inserting all the wires on a module (such as the Nano) to effectively attach together all the little plastic female connector housings. In that way, the connectors that do grip will help hold in the ones that are too loose. Some people also like using hot glue for this purpose. (Personally, I don't like using hot glue, as it makes it harder to change connections if you hooked something up incorrectly.)

===NANO PIN CONNECTIONS===
NOTE: If you are using our Quickbuild kit, this information is for reference only. Quickbuild kit wiring is already completed and tested.

[[File:Hexapod-Nano-Diagram.JPG|thumb|600px|right|Diagram of Nano connections for the Hexapod. Jumpers marked AP are routed to the Accessory Port for use with add-ons like sensors. Click for larger image.]]
* ''Digital IO Pins:''
** D0, D1 are reserved because they are used for uploading programs to the robot, so nothing will be connected there.
** D2 Bluetooth Module Rx
** D3 Bluetooth Module Tx
** D4 Buzzer Signal (white wire)
** D5, D6 NO CONNECTION. These pins are reserved for future expansion.
** D7 20cm GREEN Dupont connector routed to accessory port, used for Ultrasonic Rangefinder TRIG
** D8 20cm BLUE Dupont connector routed to accessory port, used for Ultrasonic Rangefinder ECHO
** D9 No connection. This pin is reserved for future expansion.
** D10 through D13 are reserved for the optional CMUCAM5 (Pixie) sensor accessory.

* ''Analog Pins:''
** A0 Potentiometer signal (white wire)
** A1 Potentiometer Power (red wire)
** A2 Potentiometer Ground (black wire)
** A3 20cm YELLOW Dupont connector routed to the accessory port, for the optional light sensor or other analog sensors.
** A4 Servo Controller SDA
** A5 Servo Controller SCL
** A6 20cm PURPLE Dupont connector, routed to the accessory port, for any analog sensor you wish to optionally add later.
** A7 No connection, reserved for future use.

* ''Power Pins:''
** VIN pin on Nano connects to Battery positive (the red Dupont connector coming off near the switch on the wiring module)
** GND pin on Nano connects to Battery negative (the black Dupont connector coming off the battery black wire)
** Second GND pin on Nano (there are two GND pins on the Nano) connects to the GND pin on the HC05 module
** +5V on Nano connects to HC05 +5V Pin

IMPORTANT NOTE: The red Dupont connector coming off the switch/battery assembly must go to VIN and never +5V, because the battery voltage is much higher than +5 volts. You will more or less instantly destroy your Nano if you put unregulated battery power directly into the +5V pin. The VIN pin has its own voltage regulator. The +5V pin on the Nano will be used to provide regulated power to the Bluetooth module.

=== Bluetooth Module Power ===
* +5V on HC05 connects to Nano +5V pin
* GND on HC05 connects to either of the two Nano GND pins

=== Buzzer Power ===
* Connect the buzzer V+ and ground (marked "-") pins (red and black respectively) to Port 13 of the Servo Controller, matching black and red wires to black and red pins on the Servo Controller. You will be using the special three wire cable provided for this purpose. It has a three-pin connector one one side, and the other side has a two-pin connector and a one-pin connector. The one-pin connector goes to the Nano and provides the signal to drive the buzzer. The two-pin connector is plugged into Servo Controller Port 13.

=== Servo Controller ===
[[File:ServoController-Pin-Labels.JPG|thumb|600px|right|Diagram of Servo Controller pins you will use in this project. Each servo motor has a 3 wire connector. Match the brown servo wire with the black color coded pin in its servo port, match the yellow wire with the yellow pin. Click for larger image.]]
* Connect the 12 servos to port numbers corresponding to the servo marking (0 to 11). Make sure the signal wire (yellow) is oriented correctly and matches the yellow plastic header pin.
* Connect the switch/battery module regulated BEC output (a three pin Dupont connector where only two of the pins are populated, one with a red V+ wire, one with a black ground wire) to servo controller port 12 power and ground. Make sure the RED wire is going to VCC (red pin) and the BLACK wire goes to GND (black pin).
* On one short side of the Servo Controller you will find a VCC and V+ pin right next to each other. Use a shunt (small black connector that goes over two pins) to connect those together if one is not already installed. This shunt causes both the servos and the microprocessor to run at the same +5V level.
* SDA and SCL go to A4 and A5 on the Nano, respectively.
* Servo port 12 RED and BLACK pins are connected to the output of the BEC. Make sure the BEC RED wire matches with the RED pin, and the BEC BALCK wire matches with the BLACK pin.
* Servo port 13 RED and BLACK pins are connected to the passive buzzer power connector. Make sure the buzzer BLACK wire matches the BLACK pin, and the RED wire matches the RED pin.
* Servo port 14 RED pin goes to a 20cm ORANGE Dupont connector and is routed to the accessory port to provide +5V for sensors or other accessories.
* Servo port 14 BLACK pin goes to a 20cm BROWN Dupont connector and is routed to the accessory port to provide GND for sensors or other accessories.
* Servo port 15 RED terminal goes to a 20cm RED Dupont connector and is routed to the accessory port to provide +5V for sensors or other accessories.
* Servo port 15 BLACK terminal goes to 20cm BLACK Dupont connector and is routed to the accessory port to provide ground for sensors or other accessories.
* Servo port 15 signal terminal goes to 20cm WHITE Dupont connector and is routed to the accessory port to provide signal for a servo used in an optional accessory.

===Accessory Port Wire Bundle===
The 20cm wires connected to the Nano and Servo Controller provide access to digital ports, analog ports, and power for accessories such as sensors, lights, or other projects. These wires should be bundled up near their unconnected ends (a rubber band works well for keeping them all together) and routed to the large opening below the accessory port hex head screws on the chassis. When there is no accessory in use, these wires can remain tucked inside the accessory port. When needed, pull them out a few inches and connect to sensors or other electrical accessories.

=== Connecting the HC-SR04 Ultrasonic Rangefinder to the Accessory Port ===
When building the robot you routed longer jumper wires (20cm) to the accessory port. You need four of these wires to use the Ultrasonic Rangefinder:

* RED accessory port wire goes to HC-SR04 VCC
* BLACK accessory port wire goes to HC-SR04 GND
* GREEN accessor port wire goes to HC-SR04 TRIG
* BLUE accessory port wire goes to HC-SR04 ECHO

The Scratch block assumes you've used this setup.

=== Connecting the Light Sensor (or any Arduino compatible 5 volt analog sensor) ===
* RED or ORANGE accessory port wire goes to the center pin, which is usually unmarked (may also be marked +5V, Vcc or Vin) on the sensor
* BLACK or BROWN accessory port wire goes to the ground pin on the sensor, which is usually marked with a minus sign (-) or may be marked GND or G.
* YELLOW (A3) accessory port wire goes to the Signal pin on the sensor. This is often marked (S) but on some sensors may have other markings.
** You may also use PURPLE (A6) for a sensor (or a second sensor)
** The Scratch Sensor block allows you to choose A3 (YELLOW) or A6 (PURPLE) sensor ports.

=== A note on how many things can be connected through the accessory port===
We are providing two sets of power connectors at the accessory port for sensors or other accessories. RED/BLACK and ORANGE/BROWN each respectively provide +5V/GND. It's up to you what things you want to connect using these. You could have one or two sensors, you could have a sensor and some kind off motorized accessory. You could have a sensor and an LED light strip, etc.

Nothing is stopping you from creating a Y connector to make additional power connections, except that there is a limit of 3 amps of current that you can pull from the battery/BEC system. The robot itself needs up to 2.5 amps during fast motions. But many sensors can operate on just a few milliamps. Adding a motorized accessory is where you would need to be careful about how much current you're pulling from the system. If you pull too much current, typically the BEC will overheat and go into thermal protection mode, which will shut down all the motors until you reboot the robot. It is possible to use a mini servo under moderate load for a motorized accessory, but a full sized servo under heavy load might be too much. Use caution when designing your own accessories, especially if they are going to use more than a few hundred milliamps of current.

=== Robot Screw Sizes ===
* Servo horn screws: 12 x M2.5 by 8mm long
* Switch assembly: 2 x #6-32 by 1/2" long

==Electrical Connectons: Gamepad==
NOTE: If you have a QuickBuild version of our kit, this information is for reference only. All the connections are already made in QuickBuild kits. This information might still be useful if you are an advanced user who may want to add new electrical components or modify the system.

=== GAMEPAD NANO PIN CONNECTIONS ===
[[File:Gamepad-Nano-Diagram-v3.JPG|thumb|600px|right|Diagram of Nano connections for the Gamepad. Click for larger image.]]
* D2 through D9 are connected to the button matrix pins.Looking from the top of the button matrix module, the rightmost button matrix pin (labeled 1) goes to D9, second to right (labeled 2) to D8, etc.
* D10 to SD card CS (may be labelled SS on some SD card readers)
* D11 to SD card MOSI
* D12 to SD card MISO
* D13 to SD card SCK (may be labelled SCL on some SD card readers)

* A0 Unused
* A1 Dpad OUT (white wire)
* A2 Dpad VCC (red wire)
* A3 Dpad GND (black wire)
* A4 HC05 Bluetooth Module Rx
* A5 HC05 Bluetooth Module Tx
* A6, A7 Unused

* VIN battery/switch positive (red wire)
* GND Either ground on the Nano goes to the battery/switch negative (black wire)
* ICSP pin 4 (see diagram): SD card reader GND. Note: Quickbuild kits do not use this, there's an extra GND wire soldered into the circuit for the SD card reader.
* ICSP pin 6 (see diagram): SD card reader VCC. Note: Quickbuild kits do not use this, there's an extra +5V wire soldered into the circuit for the SD card reader.
* Nano +5V pin goes to HC05 +5V pin
* Nano GND pin (there are two, you can use either one) goes to HCO5 GND pin

=== GAMEPAD: Screw Sizes ===

* Gamepad Cover, 4 x #6-32 by 1/2" long
* For kits prior to October 2019: switch adapter assembly, 2 x #6-32 by 1/2" long

{{Vorpal Quick Links}}

Vorpal The Hexapod Assembly Instructions

2022-04-08T12:32:32Z

Vorpalwiki: /* Gamepad Build Video Tutorial */

{{float_box|{{VCH Quick Links}} }}
==VIDEO BUILD INSTRUCTIONS==
Besides the printed instructions further down on this page, we have two great video build tutorials created by Teaching Tech, a great YouTube channel. Please consider subscribing to "Teaching Tech," as they have great 3d printing related videos.
The printed instructions are diagrams may still be helpful in conjunction with these videos.

===Fast Overview of Quick Build Kit Assembly===
This is an overview video showing the general build procedure in just a few minutes.
If the video does not play on your device (or you want full screen), go directly to YouTube with this link: [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SynKUki6sd8 Vorpal Quick Build Overview Video]
 
<youtube>SynKUki6sd8|Vorpal Quick Build Kit Overview Video</youtube>
 

===Gamepad Build Video Tutorial (Bare Bones Kit)===
This is a detailed build video for the Bare Bones version of the Gamepad. If you have a Quick Build kit, all of the wiring is already done so you can skip a lot of this video. It is useful for showing how to place the components in the plastic case, which is the same procedure for Quick Build.

If the video does not play on your device (or you want full screen), go directly to YouTube with this link: [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9ePTrEtEFWI TEACHING TECH GAMEPAD BUILD VIDEO]
 
<youtube>9ePTrEtEFWI|Gamepad Build</youtube>
 

===Hexapod Build Video Tutorial (Bare Bones Kit)===
If the video below does not play on your device (or you want full screen), go directly to YouTube with this link: [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cf1dBCwsE0o&rel=0 TEACHING TECH ROBOT BUILD VIDEO]

IMPORTANT NOTE: This video was made using the "Bare Bones" kit which requires a lot more assembly than the current "Quick Build" kits. It may still be useful for reference, because many of the steps are the same, such as plugging the servo wires into the servo controller. But there is no longer any need to make individual wire connections to the nano, for example, so those parts of the video can be skipped if you have the Quick Build kit.
 
<youtube>cf1dBCwsE0o|Hexapod Build</youtube>
 

==BILL OF MATERIALS (BOM) FOR VORPAL H12 HEXAPOD==
===Notes on Sourcing Parts===
* Full kits of parts as well as individual parts are available on [http://vorpal-robotics-store.myshopify.com The Vorpal Robotics Store]. If you are new to Arduino, wiring, and robotics we strongly recommend you purchase a kit instead of trying to self-source parts. The kits cut 3 to 4 hours off the build time, bringing it to typically 1 to 1.5 hours for Quickbuild kits and 2 to 2.5 hours for Bare Bones kits. The kits have all soldering done, programs are already loaded on the Nanos, Bluetooth modules are properly configured to auto-pair on boot, and you know you have all the right parts to work together.
* These instructions assume you have purchased a kit from us. If you are sourcing your own parts, please be aware of the following additional information:
**If you are sourcing your own parts, you need to build the switch/battery connector assembly. For diagrams see [[Vorpal Combat Hexapod Battery/Switch Construction]].
**Also see important information on that page if you are sourcing your own BEC.
**If you are sourcing your own Bluetooth modules, please be aware that you will need to configure them to auto-pair and to have a UART speed of 38400 BAUD. Every module brand is a bit different so it's not possible for us to give you universal instructions on how to program them. We assume that if you source your own parts you are familiar with how to configure Bluetooth modules using AT-commands.
* IMPORTANT NOTE ON SELF-SOURCED HC05 MODULES: It has come to our attention that some vendors are now selling HC05 modules that have an issue that causes extremely long lag times on transmissions (1.5 to 2 full seconds) due to an unusual way of buffering output. This makes the robot unusable due to nonresponsiveness. Unfortunately there is no visible model number or other information that allows you to tell which ones will have this issue just by looking at the vendor's listing. Please be aware that the HC05 modules we sell are the correct ones that don't have this issue. We are working on software changes that might solve this problem by changing how we pad out our radio packets, however that is considered beta code at this point (it might affect scratch programs). We are actively looking for some way to distinguish the bad modules from the good ones but there are just too many variations of this chip to be sure. In addition, some of the bad modules also have an issue where they overheat. The overheating does not have to do with the 3.3v TR pin, it happens even if a voltage divider is used on TR. We believe that one is just a defect in the circuit board. The bottom line is, yeah, you're getting extra value when you buy parts from us: we stand behind them and we make sure they work with this project.

=== ROBOT BOM ===
[[File:Choking-Hazard-Image.jpg|right|350px]]

* ''Electronics:''
** Passive Piezo Buzzer module and 3 wire cable (see image) [[File:Passive-Piezo-Buzzer-Module.jpg|right|thumb|Passive Piezo Buzzer Module]]
** Arduino Nano, 5V, 16 mHz, ATMEGA328 or similar (marked R in our kit to indicate it is pre-loaded with robot software)
** Rotary potentiometer, 10K Ohms, 6mm shaft diameter, with 3 wires pre-soldered. Also, matching dial cap and nut.
** 1 x HC05 BlueTooth Module with 4 x F-F jumper wires for making connections (Note: the HC05 has six pins but only four are used in this project. Also, this is in the Gamepad Parts bag if you purchase our kit.)
** 1 x Servo Controller module (Adafruit 16-channel 12-bit I2C PWM/Servo driver or Adafruit clone) with F-F jumper wires for making connections, plus 1 two-pin shunt tying V+ to VCC
** 12 x MG90 micro servo motors and associated servo horns (you will only use the single-arm horn). NOTE: If your kit includes O-rings or washers, you will need to use those on the shaft of the hip servos only. These are needed for digital servos only. Many counterfeit servos claim to be digital but are really analog and don't need the washers. For more information see [[Tower Pro MG90S Vs. Clones]].
** 1 x Power distribution wiring with on/off switch, Battery holder for two 18650 cells, 3A 5V BEC, and female connectors to distribute power. If you are self-sourcing see our [[Vorpal The Hexapod Battery/Switch Construction|Circuit Diagrams]].
* ''3D Printed Parts:''
** 1 x Chassis
** 1 x Cap
** 6 x Legs (individually marked with servo numbers)
** 1 x Switch adapter
** 12 x Servo bracket U-shaped halves
** 1 x Electronics Caddy
** 1 x Stand
** 1 x Eye/glasses Decoration
** 1 x Joust game accessory with "rider"
** 1 x Capture the Flag game accessory with flag and cup.
** 1 x Fidget Spinner Challenge game accessory (no Fidget Spinner, just the stand)
** 1 x Ultrasonic Rangefinder Bracket
* ''Miscellaneous:''
** 9 x 10mm diameter pairs of hook and loop self-stick circular dots. These go on the hexapod cap (hook) and accessories like eyes and nameplates (loop).
** 7 x 10mm diameter by 3mm thick ceramic magnet, north pole marked. These are for Capture-the-Flag and Joust accessories. (Note: Not included in Bare Bones kit).
** 12 x socket head cap screw, 2.5mm diameter by 8mm long (for servo horns)
** 3 x #6-32 x 1/2" screw to fasten on/off switch adapter (2) and to hold electronics caddy on chassis (3)
** 2 x #6-32 x 3/4" screw for bottom two holes in accessory port.
** 2 x #6-32 x 1/2" screw for top two holes in the accessory port.
** 4 x #6-32 nuts to hold screws in accessory port.
** 2 x #6-32 wingnuts to attach accessories to accessory port.
** 1 x L shaped hex driver, 2mm, for both kinds of screw used in the kit.

=== GAMEPAD BOM ===
[[File:Choking-Hazard-Image.jpg|right|350px]]
* ''Electronics:''
** 1 x Battery/Switch Wiring Unit with 9v battery clip. (Note: the gamepad requires no BEC so you can use this fact to distinguish from the robot wiring unit)
** 1 x 4x4 button matrix with associated connecting wires. The matrix we use is marked YL-102 in the corner. See the picture. It's blue and has the keys number K1 through K16. You may be able to use others but the pin numbers may differ. [[File:4x4-Matrix.png|right|250px]]
** 1 x Dpad Button module with associated connecting wires. The one we use is marked Keyes_AD_Key and has yellow buttons and a red circuit board. See picture. [[File:Keyes-AD-Key.PNG|right|250px]]
** 1 x HC05 Bluetooth module and four wires to connect it
** 1 x microSD Card Reader module and six wires to connect it, and a microSD card that is compatible with the Arduino SD library. A microSD card is required for record/play features to work. The capacity should be 2 gb or less, either SD or SDHC format. The gamepad can be used to format the card for use by Arduino (hold down W4 while booting the gamepad, count to 10 slowly, release W4).
** 1 x Ardunio Nano, 5V, 16 mHz, ATMEGA328 or similar (marked "G" in our kit to indicate it is pre-loaded with Gamepad software). Note: For MAC users it is far easier to get Scratch to work if the gamepad Nano uses an FTDI serial chip instead of a CHG34X chip. Our kits use the more expensive FTDI version of the Nano in the Gamepad for this reason.
* ''3D Printed Plastic Parts:''
** 1 x Gamepad base plastic part
** 1 x Gamepad top plastic part
** 1 x Gamepad button carrier
** NOTE: Gamepad Base versions before April 2018 also required 1 x Switch Adapter
* ''Fasteners:''
** 4 x #6-32 x 1/2" screw to hold cover on gamepad (4) and also to hold switch adapter on base (2)
** NOTE: Gamepad Base versions before April 2018 also required 2 more of these screws to hold on the switch adapter.

=== Sensors ===
These are included in the Deluxe version of our kit. They're mainly useful for Scratch programming activities.
* 1 x HCSR04 Ultrasonic Rangefinder
* 1 x Analog Light sensor
* 1 x 30cm USB cord type A to mini

==3D Printing the Plastic Parts==

===Obtaining the STL Files===

You can find all the current STL files here: [http://tinyurl.com/VORPALFILES VORPAL FILES]. Go to the STL folder. The Vorpal Hexapod STLs are in the subfolder ROBOT and the gamepad parts are in GAMEPAD. There are subfolders with accessories (such as sensor housings and game pieces).

===Printing Notes and Tips===

This project has been finely tuned to make it easy to 3D print. No supports are required for any of the parts. In some cases you may want to use brims or rafts to help parts adhere to the print surface. There is minimal bridging, never farther than about 15mm (5/8"). Some of the parts do require some flexibility, for example the sides of the servo compartments need to bend outward while the servos are inserted, they then snap back into place when the servo is completely inserted. This means brittle plastics like PLA are not the best choice for this project. (Although we have made PLA hexapods and they do work if you're careful when inserting the servos).

This page assumes you have basic familiarity with 3D printing and 3D printing terminology. If not, you might want to reference online materials such as youtube videos or information from your 3D printer manufacturer before attempting this project.

If you are 3D printing the plastic parts (as opposed to buying them pre-printed), here are some tips.

* MINIMUM PRINTER REQUIREMENTS
** The bed size should be at least 150mm cube (5.9 inches cube). The largest part is the hexapod base so it is the limiting factor on bed size.
** A heated bed is strongly recommended, especially if you are printing in ABS.
* RECOMMENDED PLASTICS
** ABS and PETG both work well. When we sell Full Kits and Assembled Vorpals we use ABS.
** PLA is somewhat brittle, but it will work if you're careful. Inserting the servos into the legs and hips will somewhat flex the plastic so be careful during that process with PLA. Attaching the two halves of the leg hinges together can be more successful in PLA if you first soak the hinges in very hot tap water to soften up the plastic a bit.
* PRINT SETTINGS. We print using the following settings on a Lulzbot TAZ 6 or Lulzbot Mini with 0.5mm nozzle:
** 0.38 layer thickness (or whatever layer thickness is optimal for your printer)
** 1mm walls (i.e. two perimeters)
** 1.14mm top and bottom (i.e. three layers)
** 15% infill
** You can print with thinner layers if your printer does not support 0.38mm layers or if you want a more refined look, it will just take longer.
* BRIMS AND RAFTS
** Brims or rafts are recommended for the following hexapod parts: Base, Legs, Electronics Caddy, Cap. This ensures proper bed retention to avoid warping. These parts have relatively little contact area with the print bed, or have certain sections with little contact.
** Brims/rafts are not recommended on any of the other parts. The other parts generally have enough bed surface contact that they will print fine without brims. Your mileage may vary however and it is recommended that you keep a close eye on the first few layers of the print to make sure everything is sticking properly. If not, you can cancel the job with minimal loss of plastic then restart with brims or rafts.
** We personally prefer brims (such as available in Cura) as they are easy to remove and leave a clean look.
* POST PRINT
**Other than removing brims/rafts and the occasional drip, there is not any special post-processing required after printing.
**However, be very careful to inspect the hemispheres jutting out of one side of each of the servo holders, these need to be as low friction as possible. Inspect for drips and defects. If necessary, use a file or sand paper to smooth them out.

== Building the Robot ==

You will need the following tools:
* 2mm hex key. A 5/64 inch hex key will also work. This is in the Hexapod Parts bag. (NOTE: Some very early kits put this in the Deluxe Parts Bag).
* A marker that can write on dark plastic and still be seen, such as Sharpie Metallic or Sharpie Oil markers (white and yellow work great).
** This is the easiest way to mark servo wires with their corresponding leg number
** If you don't have these types of marker, you could use clear tape and bits of paper to tape wire labels near the socket end of the servo cable. Don't put labels right on the black plastic connectors at the end of the servo because you'll make them too thick to fit side by side when plugged in.
===Servo Pre Check===
Sometimes the servo motor gearbox will get locked up when sitting for a long time, for example during shipping, especially in cold weather. The following procedure will ensure they work properly. (Note: Some MG90S servo bags distributed in the past with our kits say not to turn the servo horn, these instructions supercede that note on the bag).

* Put a one-arm servo horn on each servo. You don't need a screw, just put it on in any random position for now.
* ''Slowly'' and ''gently'' rock the servo horn by hand so it turns. Do not use a lot of force. Note that there is a physical stop that only allows it to turn 180 degrees. If you push in one direction and it won't move, rock it in the other direction.
* As soon as it moves, even just 10 or 20 degrees in either direction, you've confirmed the servo is not locked. Do not leave it at an extreme position where it stops, leave it somewhere around the middle.
If any servo fails to move with modest pressure and a gentle rocking motion, put a mark on that servo, near where the wire comes out. It will most likely unfreeze when power is applied, but you need to keep an eye on it for now.

===Step by Step Instructions===

*'''STEP 1: Insert accessory port screws in the chassis''' Insert 5/8" #6-32 hex head screws in the bottom two holes of the accessory port, head of the screw inside the hexapod, then tighten nuts outside. Repeat for the top two accessory holes with shorter 1/2" #6-32 hex head screws. The heads of the screws recess into hexogonal holes so you don't need to use pliers inside the robot body, just for the nuts. Two wingnuts go on the two lower screws, these will be used to secure accessories such as the Joust lance or Capture-the-Flag attachment.
<gallery mode=packed>
File:Hexhead-Screw.JPG|Be sure to use the hex head screws for the accessory port.
File:Accessory-Port-Diagram-V2.JPG|The accessory port is considered the "front" of the robot.
File:Accessory-Port-Screws.JPG|Longer hex head screws go on the bottom. Do not overtighten the nuts.
File:Wing-Nuts-Installed.JPG|After installing the nuts, put the wingnuts on the bottom screws. They'll be used later to secure accessories.
</gallery>
*'''STEP 2: Insert servos in the chassis.'''
** Next, insert the servo into the chassis as shown in the diagrams below. As you insert the servo into the chassis, slowly press it straight into place until it clicks in under the small tab on one side of the servo holder. Make sure it stays straight as you push down.
** Immediately mark the black connector at the end of the wire to indicate the servo number (which is engraved in the top of the servo holder, a number between 0 and 5).
*** A metallic sharpie pen works very well for this, or a light colored oil paint sharpie such as white.
*** If you don't have any of those things, a little piece of masking tape can be affixed to the wire and marked, or you could use clear cellophane tape to attach little bits of marked paper to the wire. Do not attach any tape or paper to the black connector, as it will be a tight fit when connecting later.
*** The wire coming out of the servo sticks out away from the robot, the servo shaft would face down toward the table top if the chassis were resting on the table.
** After inserting the servo, thread the wire through the top servo wire guide hole, and into the center of the chassis.
[[File:ServoChassisInsert.png|400px|Insert Servo in Chassis]]
[[File:spacerimage.png|100px|Insert Servo in Chassis]]
[[File:ServoHipInserted.png|140px|Insert Servo in Chassis]]
* '''STEP 3: Insert the servos in the Legs.''' The technique is very similar to inserting the servo into the chassis.
**Insert the servo straight into the leg socket so that the wire is coming out of the servo facing away from the plastic leg and the face of the servo with the shaft and servo horn goes into the open faced side of the leg, as shown in the diagram.
**The servos in the legs are called the "knee" servos. Each leg has a higher number on it, this is the knee number, they run from 6 to 11. Again, write this number on the black connector at the end of the servo wire. PRO TIP: For 6 and 9, underline the number so you don't read them upside down!
[[File:Servo-Insert-Leg-v2.png|350px|Insert Servo in Legs]]
[[File:spacerimage.png|100px|Insert Servo in Chassis]]
[[File:Servo-Leg-Inserted-v2.png|350px|Insert Servo in Legs]]
* '''STEP 4: Thread each leg servo wire''' into the bottom wire guide slot on the chassis. Each leg servo should be matched with a hip servo plus 6. The legs are marked with the hip number near the top and the knee number below that. For example, the leg marked 6 should be threaded through the wire guide on hip servo 0, leg 7 goes with hip 1, leg 8 goes with hip 2, etc. Add 6 to the hip number to get the leg number.
* '''STEP 5: Build the electrical system.''' You need to power up the servos and make them seek to the 90 degree position, this will allow you to adjust the legs properly for walking.
** STEP 5A: Take the potentiometer and remove the cap, then unscrew the nut and set these items aside for now. Push the potentiometer shaft from the inside of the chassis, into the hole that has the markings "STOP", "TST", etc. The wires coming out of the potentiometer should be pointing down and you may need to bend them a bit to make it all fit. Put the retaining nut on the potentiometer, hand tighten first and then give it just another half turn or so with pliers if desired. Turn the knob all the way counter clockwise, then insert the knob so it points to the letter "O" in the word "STOP".
** STEP 5B: Find the on/off switch (which is attached to the battery holder assembly). There was a change to how this was installed in October, 2019. The older version requires a "switch adapter," while the new version just uses a slot to feed in the wires. The two sets of diagrams below illustrate both the old and the new way of installing the switch.
New Version Switch Installation:
<gallery mode=packed heights=200>
File:NewSwitchInstall-Step1.jpg|Thread the switch and its wires through the Base, there is an opening under the switch hole.
File:NewSwitchInstall-Step2.jpg|Bring the wires up through the slot below the switch hole.
File:NewSwitchInstall-Step3.jpg|Press the switch into the hole, it should snap into place. The "1" should be on top.
</gallery>
Old Version Switch Installation (before about mid October 2019):
<gallery mode=packed>
File:Assembly-Switch-Bracket-Insertion.JPG|Thread the wires through the gap in the adapter
File:Assembly-Switch-Bracket-Done.JPG|Press the switch into the adapter.
File:Assembly-Switch-Bracket-Insertion-into-Base.JPG|From the inside of the robot, line up the switch/adapter with the switch hole.
File:Assembly-Switch-Bracket-in-Base.JPG|While holding the switch/adapter in place, insert screws from the outside of the robot.
</gallery>
** STEP 5C: If you do not have a "QuickBuild" version of the kit, then make all the connections listed in the ELECTRICAL CONNECTIONS section of these instructions below. Be extremely careful about the power connections. Double check all connections before powering on. If you do have a QuickBuild kit, all the connections are already made for you.
[[File:Servo-Horn-Orientation.png|thumb|right|The servo horn should come straight out from the body at a 90 degree angle as shown here. Do not turn the servo shaft by hand until after it has moved under power!]]
* '''STEP 6: Power up!''' Make sure the on/off switch is off, and the knob is turned to STOP. Insert batteries and power on the robot using the on/off switch. You should hear a beep, a pause, then a second beep. The servos should all twitch into position. If the robot does not move at all, immediately turn the switch off and check your connections again. If some of the servos don't move (especially any you marked during the servo pre-check) then gently push them with power off to see if you can free them up. If they still won't move, try pushing them with power applied, but turn off the power within 30 seconds if they're locked up. If you can't get the servo to move it will need to be replaced.
* '''STEP 7: Insert Servo Horns.''' The servo horns are all at random angles right now due to the servo pre-check. In this step we'll make them point in the right direction. The knee servos are not at 90 degrees when the knob is all the way counter clockwise, rather they are at a 30 degree standing angle. We need to get them to 90 degrees so its easy to align the servo horn. Turn the knob very slightly clockwise and you will see all the knee servos twitch. This is "adjust servo horn mode". All servos (knees and hips) are now at their halfway point, 90 degrees. Now you need to take each single arm servo horn and carefully insert it on the shaft so that it is sticking straight out as shown in the figure. You will not always be able to make the horn come totally straight out. This is because there are only 22 little groves (splines) in each shaft, meaning you can in general only come within about 8 degrees of being at a perfect 90 degree angle. This amount of error is acceptable, just get it as close as you can. It is better for the horn to be a little too much clockwise than to be a little too much counterclockwise, especially for the knees. Do this for all hip and knee servos. Do not insert any screws yet.
[[File:Servo-Bracket-Alignment-v1.png|thumb|350px|right|Align the leg hinges as shown here. The bumps (see arrows) should both be near each other when properly aligned. Hold one in each hand with the ends of the U shape between thumb and forefinger.]]
* '''STEP 8: Assemble the leg hinges'''. Each leg hinge is composed of two identical U-shaped parts. Take one in each hand and align the two so that the bump (shown in the diagram at the right) are both near each other. Turn one 90 degrees with respect to the other.
**Gently squeeze each piece between thumb and forefinger, which causes the little jaws in the center to open up slightly. Work the two halves together. Squeeze just enough so they work their way on, no more or you might break the part!.
**At this stage, you may notice that the parts are loosely clamped on each other. Don't worry! When you place the leg hinges over a servo, the servo will spread it apart and they will lock together tightly.
* '''STEP 9: Attach Leg Hinges.''' The leg hinges connect the hips to the knees. They only go on one way. First place the end that matches the servo horn on, then you need to very slightly bend the U shaped piece while pulling it over the hemispherical bearing on the other side. It's a little easier to do the knees (servos mounted to legs) first, followed by the hips (servos on base).
**NOTE: It should not be excessively difficult to push the hinge over the hemispherical bearing. If you find you are struggling, that means the hinges are too tight. This may affect walking. This can be due to the kind of plastic you used or how your printer is adjusted. You may need to gently spread the two legs of the U shape by hand before putting the hinge on the robot. Be careful of course not to break the hinge.
* '''STEP 10: Test Knee Positions.''' Turn the knob fully counter clockwise (to STOP) and the robot will go into "stand still" mode. Place it on a level surface such as a table top. Do all of the legs touch the ground? If one or more legs don't touch the ground, you need to adjust the servo horn on the knee a little bit so it does touch. Gently pull off the servo bracket. Pull the servo horn off, and put it back on just a little bit moved so the leg would move closer to the ground. Put the servo bracket back on, and see how it looks. Do this until all legs are at least slightly touching the ground. Again, you can't necessarily be perfect due to the 8 degree increments the servo horns can be moved. But you should be able to be close enough that all legs at least slightly touch the ground.
* '''STEP 11: Insert Servo Screws.''' Now that the legs are adjusted, you can insert the M2.5x8 screws into the servo horns to lock them in place. Note that you will NOT be using the screws that were in the little bag the servos came in, you'll be using the separate pack of screws, which are longer than the ones in the servo bag. Do not overtighten these screws, as you could possibly crack the servo brackets. Just turn the screws until you start to feel resistance, then turn a quarter turn more and stop.
* '''STEP 12: Test Individual Servos.''' To test whether every servo is working, put the robot on its stand. Then start with the knob on STOP, then slowly turn it clockwise. First the servos will go into adjust mode, you used that a moment ago to set the servo horns. But, keep going, and the robot will go into "individual servo test mode". In this mode, every hip servo will move, one by one. When all the hips have moved, every leg will move, one by one. You should see every servo move, in order. If some don't move, check your connections. A common error is to plug a servo connector into the servo controller backwards (i.e. the brown wire is matched with the yellow pin instead of the black pin).
{| class="wikitable" align=right style="float:right; background:transparent; margin: {{{margins|1em 1em 1em 1em}}}; {{{style|}}}"
|-
| <youtube>5T7E1IqHxNc|Electronics Caddy Tutorial</youtube>
|}
* '''STEP 13: Test Using Demo Mode.''' Ok, everything looks good, so time for a full test. Turn the knob to STOP, then take the robot off the stand and put it on the floor. Turn the knob to DEMO, and the robot will go through a series of movements to demonstrate some of the things it can do. The full demo only takes about 30 seconds, then repeats. Here, you are looking for the robot to, for example, be able to get back up off the floor after doing some of its dance moves. If the robot struggles to get off the floor, you may have a battery that is not fully charged, or there may be too much friction between the servo bracket and the little ball socket it sits in. A tiny bit of silicone lubricant will usually fix that problem, or just make sure those parts are cleaned up from 3D printing and don't have an excess strands of material that are causing friction. See the [[Vorpal Combat_Hexapod Troubleshooting Guide|Trouble Shooting Guide]] for more information about different kinds of issues that can occur.
* '''STEP 14: Store the Electronics in the Caddy''' Now things look pretty messy with all those wires hanging loose, let's clean it up by stowing them in the electronics caddy. Please reference the video and diagrams here for quick instructions.
** '''STEP 14A: Insert Caddy Bars''' Insert the two electronics caddy bars as shown in the diagrams below. Notice carefully how they are inserted. You may need to slightly squeeze the forked section at the end to work it into the hole. Once inside, it may be difficult to remove because it will snap into place, so be sure you're putting it in the right way.
<gallery mode=packed>
File:Electronics-Caddy-Insert-Bar.JPG|Here one bar has already been inserted, the other is being put into place. Notice the orientation, don't put it in upside down. The little nubs at the end should be facing the caddy.
</gallery>
** '''STEP 14B: Insert the Servo Controller and Arduino Nano''' The diagrams here do not show the wires to make them easier to visualize. Carefully insert the servo controller as shown, making sure you don't pull out any of the wires. You may need to wiggle the electronics caddy bar from side to side a bit so that components can slide past it during insertion. Notice that the end of the Servo controller with wires sticking out of it must go in last. Carefully insert the Arduino Nano as shown, making sure you don't pull out any of the wires. You may need to wiggle the electronics caddy bar from side to side a bit so that components can slide past it during insertion. Notice that the end of the Nano that has the USB port must go in last.
<gallery mode=packed>
File:Electronics-Caddy-Insert-ServoController.JPG|Insert the servo controller so it is sandwiched between the bar and the electronics caddy. Wires not shown for clarity.
File:Electronics-Caddy-Insert-Nano.JPG|Insert the Nano so that the USB port faces out away from the electronics caddy, this allows you to access it without disassembling the robot.
File:Electronics-Caddy-Assembled-Underside.JPG|This is what the underside of the electronics caddy looks like after inserting the Servo Controller and Arduino Nano. Wires not shown for clarity.
</gallery>
** '''STEP 14C: Insert the HC05 Bluetooth Module''' The diagrams here do not show the wires to make them easier to visualize. The HC05 Bluetooth module with a name beginning with "S" should be used for the robot. For example, the label will read something like "VORP S2944" (the number will differ). The one marked "M" will be used for the gamepad. Slide the HC05 into the side drawer as shown. When inserting, be careful not to pull out the wires, which will be a little tight. Work the wires into the little space provided so they stay clear of the robot's cap when it gets screwed on later.
<gallery mode=packed>
File:Electronics-Caddy-Insert-HC05.JPG|Insert the HC05 into the side drawer as shown.
File:Electronics-Caddy-Assembled-HC05.JPG|When fully inserted, the indicator light will still be visible through the small oval. The wires should be tucked into the little cavity near the pins of the HC05.
</gallery>
* '''STEP 15: Assemble the Cap'''
** '''STEP 15A: Put hook-and-loop dots in the Cap''' Insert a "hook" circular self-stick dot in each of the 10mm circular holder areas in the cap. Do not use the fuzzy "loop" side of the hook-and-loop pair, use the "hook" side of the pair. Press firmly so the glue backing sticks firmly to the plastic. NOTE: Older versions of this project used magnets on the cap and eye decorations. If you are assembling an older version, press the magnet into the cap firmly (you may need to use pliers) and make sure the marked face (north pole) is showing. On accessories like eyes, make sure the unmarked face (south pole) is showing.
** '''STEP 15B: Decorate''' If desired, use a permanent marker to color the Vorpal "V" on top of the Cap. Oil markers work well. On light colors of plastic a black permanent marker will also work.
** '''STEP 15C: Put Cap on the Hexapod''' Screw the cap on the robot by lining up the tabs with the matching slots in the rim of the base. Turn the cap clockwise to lock it in place. IMPORTANT: Do not press down on the robot to insert the cap when the robot is under power standing on its legs! You can damage the leg motors by doing this. It is best to turn the robot off, and either support the bottom of the Base with one hand and press the Cap on with the other, or set the Base down on the table top or floor with legs out to the sides so they don't take pressure.
* '''STEP 16: Bounce Pads''' There is a foam pad with a peel-off self-sticking side. This goes on the bottom of the robot. It allows dance moves that slam the robot to the floor to be safe for the robot's parts.
<gallery mode=packed>
File:Robot-Foam-Installation.JPG|Peel off the paper and stick the foam on the bottom of the robot.
</gallery>
* '''STEP 17: Warning Label''' There are two a self-stick choking hazard warning labels in the hexapod parts bag. Peel the backing off one of them and place it on the bottom of the robot, near the center of the foam. Retain the second label for the gamepad.

== Building the Gamepad ==
[[File:Gamepad-Overall-Assembly-Exploded.png|thumb|600px|right|Gamepad order of parts during assembly (wires not shown for clarity).]]
To go beyond demo mode, you need to build the Vorpal Gamepad. The Vorpal Gamepad allows you to call up many different actions by the hexapod such as walking, turning, dancing, or fighting. The gamepad can also be used as a transmitter to allow Scratch programs to wirelessly control your robot from a computer.

=== Part 1: Gamepad Electrical System (Skip if using a QuickBuild kit) ===

If you DO NOT have a "QuickBuild" version of our kit, then you must first assemble the electrical components of the gamepad as follows. Please SKIP this entire section if you have a QuickBuild version of our kit, and proceed to Part 2.

* '''STEP 1: Attach cables to the button matrix.''' Pull 8 wires off the Dupont wire bundle. The colors don't really matter so just take 8 adjacent wires and leave them together if possible. Carefully push these 8 wires, in order, onto the pins coming out of the 4x4 button matrix. Make sure the wire connectors don't "swap places" by twisting under each other, it is very important that the order be correct.
[[File:Gamepad-Electronics-Layout.png|thumb|right|400 px|Layout of Electronic Boards. Left to right: Arduino Nano, HC05 Bluetooth Module, and SD Card reader. (wires are left out of diagram for clarity)]]

* '''STEP 2: Attach cables to the yellow D-PAD buttons.''' Pull three wires off the Dupont wire bundle of the following colors: red, black, white. Plug the white wire into the yellow D-PAD button module's pin marked OUT (output). The middle pin marked VCC gets the red wire, and the pin marked GND gets the black wire.

* '''STEP 3: Connect the electrical system wires.''' Using the connections indicated in the section below on electrical wiring, plug in all the wires for the Arduino Nano, HC05 Bluetooth module, SD Card Reader, and button modules.

=== Part 2: Inserting Gamepad Components into Plastic Base ===

* '''STEP 1: Install the switch.'''
** If you printed version V1R8c or later, or you received printed parts from us in or after April, 2018: Gamepad Base designs before April, 2018 required a switch adapter to be installed in a similar way to the hexapod robot Base, however that was eliminated in version V1R8c of the Gamepad. With the new design you just leave the switch hanging out of the switch hole on the back of the base until you screw on the top of the gamepad, then you press fit the switch into the resulting rectangular hole.
** If you printed gamepad Base versions earlier than V1r8c or you received printed parts from us before April, 2018: Take the switch/battery assembly and use two #6-32 screws 1/2" long to attach it on the inside wall of the gamepad base, in the rectangular hole. The switch itself is sandwiched between the gamepad wall and a switch adapter (the same switch adapter model used for the robot is used for the gamepad, you need to print two of them). DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN THE SCREWS.

* ''' STEP 2: Place the buttons''' Place the 4x4 button matrix and also the yellow D-PAD button module in the matching places on the button bracket. The yellow D-PAD buttons should be placed down first, and you may need to slightly bend the pins downward. The 4x4 button matrix also should have its pins slightly bent downward, then its wires will go on top of the wires coming out of the yellow D-PAD button module.
**NOTE: The yellow caps on the D-PAD buttons are optional. We normally remove these because we have found that in demo situations some people, especially young children, will press the yellow buttons so hard that they dislodge the caps. They will press right back on, it's not a problem really, however they may think they broke the controller. We feel it's better just to take them off.

* '''STEP 3: Insert the Arduino Nano.''' The Arduino Nano should be oriented such that its USB port is coming out the square hole on the left side of the base, and all the outgoing wires from the Nano are coming out toward the front of the base. Once in place, gently push the side of the Nano opposite of the USB port until it clicks into place, securing it.

* ''' STEP 4: Insert the HC05 Bluetooth Module.''' Slip the HC05 Bluetooth module under the U shaped bracket near the center of the gamepad base. Its lights should be facing upward, they will be visible through holes in the top of the gamepad and this helps you know that the gamepad is turned on.

* '''STEP 5: Put it all together.''' Put the 9v battery clip inside the battery box area of the base. Place the button bracket on top of the base, then place the gamepad top on the button bracket, sandwiching the button modules in place. Align the four screw holes in the corners with the matching holes on the base and secure with four #6-32 screws 1/2" long. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN. NOTE: You might want to just put two screws in, and don't even put them all the way in, until you test the gamepad. In that way, if it does not work, you can easily open it back up to check connections.

'''STEP 6: Detect D-PAD Style''' Turn the gamepad's switch to the OFF (0) position, then insert a charged 9v battery. Hold down the top button on the D-PAD module (the one above the grouping of four directional buttons). While still holding this button, turn the switch to the ON (1) position, you should see lights come on inside the gamepad. Count slowly to ten, then release the D-PAD button. This procedure causes the gamepad to detect what kind of D-PAD is being used so that it may interpret the button presses correctly. You only need to do this once (or after swapping in a new D-PAD module, for example after a repair). The setting is stored in nonvolatile EEPROM on the gamepad's Arduino Nano.

* '''STEP 7: Test!''' Turn the switch to "0" (off). Connect a 9v battery to the 9v battery clip then slide the battery door onto the base. Turn the switch to "1" (on). Lights should be visible through the holes. Turn the hexapod's dial all the way clockwise, to "RC" thus putting it in Bluetooth mode. Turn the hexapod on and wait a few seconds for it to completely boot. Try to control the robot! Try hitting each of the top three rows of 4x4 matrix buttons (W, F, D) one by one, and test to make sure every mode functions. If most modes work but a couple do not, you may have swapped some wires coming off the matrix.

* '''STEP 8: Decorate''' If desired, use a marker to darken the Vorpal "V" symbol, the W, F, D, R markings, the 0 and 1 switch markings, and the record/play symbols under the 4x4 button matrix. This will make them more visible as well as making the gamepad look nicer. We like using oil based paint markers. For dark colored plastics, use a white oil paint marker, for light colored plastics use black, blue, or red to contrast with the plastic color.

'''STEP 9: Warning Label''' There were two a self-stick choking hazard warning labels in the hexapod parts bag. You used one for the robot. Peel the backing off the other and place it on the bottom of the gamepad, being sure not to interfere with the battery drawer.

= Trimming the Servos =
When you assembled the servo horns onto the servos, you probably were not able to get them all to come out exactly at a 90 degree angle. That's not your fault: the servo horns only have 22 possible positions in which they can be installed, so at best you can come within plus or minus 8 degrees of perfection.

Now that you have the gamepad working, you can make fine adjustments to the servo positions using "Trim Mode". In this special gamepad mode, you can adjust all the servos. These adjustments are saved in the robot's EEPROM, which is memory on the Nano that retains data even when powered off. So, you only need to trim once.

Complete instructions on how to use trim mode are in the wiki page: [[Vorpal The Hexapod Trim Mode Guide]].

NOTE: although this step is optional, it is recommended because your robot will walk straighter and all the servos will share equally in lifting the robot's weight, which will make them last longer.

=Assembling Game Accessories and Nameplates=
Most of the accessory pieces require no assembly, or just require press fitting magnets into round holes or attaching self-stick velcro.

When inserting magnets, the rule is: anything that attaches to the robot via the accessory port screws should have the dimpled side of the magnet ''showing'', and anything that is supposed to attach to the robot or a screwed-on accessory should have the dimple side ''down, not showing''.

Based on this rule, the dimpled side of the magnet should '''not''' show for these items:
* Flag
* Joust Rider
* Name plate

And the dimple ''should'' be showing for these items:
* Capture the Flag Arm
* Joust Lance

==Assembling Sensors==
The light sensor and ultrasonic rangefinder sensor can be assembled with two screws each. The sensor module is sandwiched in between two plastic pieces. These screws are in the Deluxe Parts Bag. The screws will self-thread into the plastic. Do not overtighten or you will strip the plastic and the screws won't hold. When the screw head is all the way down, stop turning.

The ultrasonic rangefinder sensor attaches to the accessory port screws.

The light sensor wedges into one of the slotted holes in the cap.
==Electrical Connections: Robot==

NOTE: If you have a QuickBuild version of our kit, this information is for reference only. All the connections are already made in QuickBuild kits. This information might still be useful if you are an advanced user who may want to add new electrical components or modify the system.

===NOTES ON JUMPER WIRES===

This section is for self-source builders and Bare Bones Kit builders. Quickbuild kits are pre-wired and electrical systems are fully tested, so you can skip this section if you have a Quickbuild kit.

====Wire Lengths====
There are two different lengths of female-female Dupont jumper wires used to make most connections. The longer ones (20cm) are only used for the Hexapod's accessory port connections. The shorter ones are used for all the connections on the Gamepad and all the connections on the Hexapod between the Arduino Nano, Servo controller and Bluetooth module.

====Wire Color Conventions====

Please follow these conventions when selecting wire colors:
* For +5V, Vin, and similar positive voltage connections, use either RED or ORANGE.
* For GND and other negative electrical connections, use BLACK or BROWN.
* For the connectors that sit at the mouth of the accessory port (used for optional sensors) colors are suggested below in the instructions. By following these suggestions you will make your life easier when connecting sensors!
* For all other connections, you can use any color you want, it's arbitrary.

====If Jumper Wires Are Too Loose====
Sometimes you will find a wire whose connector does not grip the pin well enough. It might fall off very easily or just by gravity alone. If that happens, you have a few options:
* There are extra wires in your kit. If you find a wire that's too loose, just use a different wire.
* Using the hex key, you can put the jumper housing on a flat surface then press on the metal showing through the plastic connector, which will tighten up the jumper wire's grip. Don't go too overboard on pressing though or you might make it too hard to insert.
* Alternatively, you could use electrical tape after inserting all the wires on a module (such as the Nano) to effectively attach together all the little plastic female connector housings. In that way, the connectors that do grip will help hold in the ones that are too loose. Some people also like using hot glue for this purpose. (Personally, I don't like using hot glue, as it makes it harder to change connections if you hooked something up incorrectly.)

===NANO PIN CONNECTIONS===
NOTE: If you are using our Quickbuild kit, this information is for reference only. Quickbuild kit wiring is already completed and tested.

[[File:Hexapod-Nano-Diagram.JPG|thumb|600px|right|Diagram of Nano connections for the Hexapod. Jumpers marked AP are routed to the Accessory Port for use with add-ons like sensors. Click for larger image.]]
* ''Digital IO Pins:''
** D0, D1 are reserved because they are used for uploading programs to the robot, so nothing will be connected there.
** D2 Bluetooth Module Rx
** D3 Bluetooth Module Tx
** D4 Buzzer Signal (white wire)
** D5, D6 NO CONNECTION. These pins are reserved for future expansion.
** D7 20cm GREEN Dupont connector routed to accessory port, used for Ultrasonic Rangefinder TRIG
** D8 20cm BLUE Dupont connector routed to accessory port, used for Ultrasonic Rangefinder ECHO
** D9 No connection. This pin is reserved for future expansion.
** D10 through D13 are reserved for the optional CMUCAM5 (Pixie) sensor accessory.

* ''Analog Pins:''
** A0 Potentiometer signal (white wire)
** A1 Potentiometer Power (red wire)
** A2 Potentiometer Ground (black wire)
** A3 20cm YELLOW Dupont connector routed to the accessory port, for the optional light sensor or other analog sensors.
** A4 Servo Controller SDA
** A5 Servo Controller SCL
** A6 20cm PURPLE Dupont connector, routed to the accessory port, for any analog sensor you wish to optionally add later.
** A7 No connection, reserved for future use.

* ''Power Pins:''
** VIN pin on Nano connects to Battery positive (the red Dupont connector coming off near the switch on the wiring module)
** GND pin on Nano connects to Battery negative (the black Dupont connector coming off the battery black wire)
** Second GND pin on Nano (there are two GND pins on the Nano) connects to the GND pin on the HC05 module
** +5V on Nano connects to HC05 +5V Pin

IMPORTANT NOTE: The red Dupont connector coming off the switch/battery assembly must go to VIN and never +5V, because the battery voltage is much higher than +5 volts. You will more or less instantly destroy your Nano if you put unregulated battery power directly into the +5V pin. The VIN pin has its own voltage regulator. The +5V pin on the Nano will be used to provide regulated power to the Bluetooth module.

=== Bluetooth Module Power ===
* +5V on HC05 connects to Nano +5V pin
* GND on HC05 connects to either of the two Nano GND pins

=== Buzzer Power ===
* Connect the buzzer V+ and ground (marked "-") pins (red and black respectively) to Port 13 of the Servo Controller, matching black and red wires to black and red pins on the Servo Controller. You will be using the special three wire cable provided for this purpose. It has a three-pin connector one one side, and the other side has a two-pin connector and a one-pin connector. The one-pin connector goes to the Nano and provides the signal to drive the buzzer. The two-pin connector is plugged into Servo Controller Port 13.

=== Servo Controller ===
[[File:ServoController-Pin-Labels.JPG|thumb|600px|right|Diagram of Servo Controller pins you will use in this project. Each servo motor has a 3 wire connector. Match the brown servo wire with the black color coded pin in its servo port, match the yellow wire with the yellow pin. Click for larger image.]]
* Connect the 12 servos to port numbers corresponding to the servo marking (0 to 11). Make sure the signal wire (yellow) is oriented correctly and matches the yellow plastic header pin.
* Connect the switch/battery module regulated BEC output (a three pin Dupont connector where only two of the pins are populated, one with a red V+ wire, one with a black ground wire) to servo controller port 12 power and ground. Make sure the RED wire is going to VCC (red pin) and the BLACK wire goes to GND (black pin).
* On one short side of the Servo Controller you will find a VCC and V+ pin right next to each other. Use a shunt (small black connector that goes over two pins) to connect those together if one is not already installed. This shunt causes both the servos and the microprocessor to run at the same +5V level.
* SDA and SCL go to A4 and A5 on the Nano, respectively.
* Servo port 12 RED and BLACK pins are connected to the output of the BEC. Make sure the BEC RED wire matches with the RED pin, and the BEC BALCK wire matches with the BLACK pin.
* Servo port 13 RED and BLACK pins are connected to the passive buzzer power connector. Make sure the buzzer BLACK wire matches the BLACK pin, and the RED wire matches the RED pin.
* Servo port 14 RED pin goes to a 20cm ORANGE Dupont connector and is routed to the accessory port to provide +5V for sensors or other accessories.
* Servo port 14 BLACK pin goes to a 20cm BROWN Dupont connector and is routed to the accessory port to provide GND for sensors or other accessories.
* Servo port 15 RED terminal goes to a 20cm RED Dupont connector and is routed to the accessory port to provide +5V for sensors or other accessories.
* Servo port 15 BLACK terminal goes to 20cm BLACK Dupont connector and is routed to the accessory port to provide ground for sensors or other accessories.
* Servo port 15 signal terminal goes to 20cm WHITE Dupont connector and is routed to the accessory port to provide signal for a servo used in an optional accessory.

===Accessory Port Wire Bundle===
The 20cm wires connected to the Nano and Servo Controller provide access to digital ports, analog ports, and power for accessories such as sensors, lights, or other projects. These wires should be bundled up near their unconnected ends (a rubber band works well for keeping them all together) and routed to the large opening below the accessory port hex head screws on the chassis. When there is no accessory in use, these wires can remain tucked inside the accessory port. When needed, pull them out a few inches and connect to sensors or other electrical accessories.

=== Connecting the HC-SR04 Ultrasonic Rangefinder to the Accessory Port ===
When building the robot you routed longer jumper wires (20cm) to the accessory port. You need four of these wires to use the Ultrasonic Rangefinder:

* RED accessory port wire goes to HC-SR04 VCC
* BLACK accessory port wire goes to HC-SR04 GND
* GREEN accessor port wire goes to HC-SR04 TRIG
* BLUE accessory port wire goes to HC-SR04 ECHO

The Scratch block assumes you've used this setup.

=== Connecting the Light Sensor (or any Arduino compatible 5 volt analog sensor) ===
* RED or ORANGE accessory port wire goes to the center pin, which is usually unmarked (may also be marked +5V, Vcc or Vin) on the sensor
* BLACK or BROWN accessory port wire goes to the ground pin on the sensor, which is usually marked with a minus sign (-) or may be marked GND or G.
* YELLOW (A3) accessory port wire goes to the Signal pin on the sensor. This is often marked (S) but on some sensors may have other markings.
** You may also use PURPLE (A6) for a sensor (or a second sensor)
** The Scratch Sensor block allows you to choose A3 (YELLOW) or A6 (PURPLE) sensor ports.

=== A note on how many things can be connected through the accessory port===
We are providing two sets of power connectors at the accessory port for sensors or other accessories. RED/BLACK and ORANGE/BROWN each respectively provide +5V/GND. It's up to you what things you want to connect using these. You could have one or two sensors, you could have a sensor and some kind off motorized accessory. You could have a sensor and an LED light strip, etc.

Nothing is stopping you from creating a Y connector to make additional power connections, except that there is a limit of 3 amps of current that you can pull from the battery/BEC system. The robot itself needs up to 2.5 amps during fast motions. But many sensors can operate on just a few milliamps. Adding a motorized accessory is where you would need to be careful about how much current you're pulling from the system. If you pull too much current, typically the BEC will overheat and go into thermal protection mode, which will shut down all the motors until you reboot the robot. It is possible to use a mini servo under moderate load for a motorized accessory, but a full sized servo under heavy load might be too much. Use caution when designing your own accessories, especially if they are going to use more than a few hundred milliamps of current.

=== Robot Screw Sizes ===
* Servo horn screws: 12 x M2.5 by 8mm long
* Switch assembly: 2 x #6-32 by 1/2" long

==Electrical Connectons: Gamepad==
NOTE: If you have a QuickBuild version of our kit, this information is for reference only. All the connections are already made in QuickBuild kits. This information might still be useful if you are an advanced user who may want to add new electrical components or modify the system.

=== GAMEPAD NANO PIN CONNECTIONS ===
[[File:Gamepad-Nano-Diagram-v3.JPG|thumb|600px|right|Diagram of Nano connections for the Gamepad. Click for larger image.]]
* D2 through D9 are connected to the button matrix pins.Looking from the top of the button matrix module, the rightmost button matrix pin (labeled 1) goes to D9, second to right (labeled 2) to D8, etc.
* D10 to SD card CS (may be labelled SS on some SD card readers)
* D11 to SD card MOSI
* D12 to SD card MISO
* D13 to SD card SCK (may be labelled SCL on some SD card readers)

* A0 Unused
* A1 Dpad OUT (white wire)
* A2 Dpad VCC (red wire)
* A3 Dpad GND (black wire)
* A4 HC05 Bluetooth Module Rx
* A5 HC05 Bluetooth Module Tx
* A6, A7 Unused

* VIN battery/switch positive (red wire)
* GND Either ground on the Nano goes to the battery/switch negative (black wire)
* ICSP pin 4 (see diagram): SD card reader GND. Note: Quickbuild kits do not use this, there's an extra GND wire soldered into the circuit for the SD card reader.
* ICSP pin 6 (see diagram): SD card reader VCC. Note: Quickbuild kits do not use this, there's an extra +5V wire soldered into the circuit for the SD card reader.
* Nano +5V pin goes to HC05 +5V pin
* Nano GND pin (there are two, you can use either one) goes to HCO5 GND pin

=== GAMEPAD: Screw Sizes ===

* Gamepad Cover, 4 x #6-32 by 1/2" long
* For kits prior to October 2019: switch adapter assembly, 2 x #6-32 by 1/2" long

{{Vorpal Quick Links}}

Vorpal The Hexapod Assembly Instructions

2022-04-08T12:30:57Z

Vorpalwiki: /* Gamepad Build Video Tutorial */

{{float_box|{{VCH Quick Links}} }}
==VIDEO BUILD INSTRUCTIONS==
Besides the printed instructions further down on this page, we have two great video build tutorials created by Teaching Tech, a great YouTube channel. Please consider subscribing to "Teaching Tech," as they have great 3d printing related videos.
The printed instructions are diagrams may still be helpful in conjunction with these videos.

===Fast Overview of Quick Build Kit Assembly===
This is an overview video showing the general build procedure in just a few minutes.
If the video does not play on your device (or you want full screen), go directly to YouTube with this link: [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SynKUki6sd8 Vorpal Quick Build Overview Video]
 
<youtube>SynKUki6sd8|Vorpal Quick Build Kit Overview Video</youtube>
 

===Gamepad Build Video Tutorial===
If the video does not play on your device (or you want full screen), go directly to YouTube with this link: [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9ePTrEtEFWI TEACHING TECH GAMEPAD BUILD VIDEO]
 
<youtube>9ePTrEtEFWI|Gamepad Build</youtube>
 

===Hexapod Build Video Tutorial (Bare Bones Kit)===
If the video below does not play on your device (or you want full screen), go directly to YouTube with this link: [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cf1dBCwsE0o&rel=0 TEACHING TECH ROBOT BUILD VIDEO]

IMPORTANT NOTE: This video was made using the "Bare Bones" kit which requires a lot more assembly than the current "Quick Build" kits. It may still be useful for reference, because many of the steps are the same, such as plugging the servo wires into the servo controller. But there is no longer any need to make individual wire connections to the nano, for example, so those parts of the video can be skipped if you have the Quick Build kit.
 
<youtube>cf1dBCwsE0o|Hexapod Build</youtube>
 

==BILL OF MATERIALS (BOM) FOR VORPAL H12 HEXAPOD==
===Notes on Sourcing Parts===
* Full kits of parts as well as individual parts are available on [http://vorpal-robotics-store.myshopify.com The Vorpal Robotics Store]. If you are new to Arduino, wiring, and robotics we strongly recommend you purchase a kit instead of trying to self-source parts. The kits cut 3 to 4 hours off the build time, bringing it to typically 1 to 1.5 hours for Quickbuild kits and 2 to 2.5 hours for Bare Bones kits. The kits have all soldering done, programs are already loaded on the Nanos, Bluetooth modules are properly configured to auto-pair on boot, and you know you have all the right parts to work together.
* These instructions assume you have purchased a kit from us. If you are sourcing your own parts, please be aware of the following additional information:
**If you are sourcing your own parts, you need to build the switch/battery connector assembly. For diagrams see [[Vorpal Combat Hexapod Battery/Switch Construction]].
**Also see important information on that page if you are sourcing your own BEC.
**If you are sourcing your own Bluetooth modules, please be aware that you will need to configure them to auto-pair and to have a UART speed of 38400 BAUD. Every module brand is a bit different so it's not possible for us to give you universal instructions on how to program them. We assume that if you source your own parts you are familiar with how to configure Bluetooth modules using AT-commands.
* IMPORTANT NOTE ON SELF-SOURCED HC05 MODULES: It has come to our attention that some vendors are now selling HC05 modules that have an issue that causes extremely long lag times on transmissions (1.5 to 2 full seconds) due to an unusual way of buffering output. This makes the robot unusable due to nonresponsiveness. Unfortunately there is no visible model number or other information that allows you to tell which ones will have this issue just by looking at the vendor's listing. Please be aware that the HC05 modules we sell are the correct ones that don't have this issue. We are working on software changes that might solve this problem by changing how we pad out our radio packets, however that is considered beta code at this point (it might affect scratch programs). We are actively looking for some way to distinguish the bad modules from the good ones but there are just too many variations of this chip to be sure. In addition, some of the bad modules also have an issue where they overheat. The overheating does not have to do with the 3.3v TR pin, it happens even if a voltage divider is used on TR. We believe that one is just a defect in the circuit board. The bottom line is, yeah, you're getting extra value when you buy parts from us: we stand behind them and we make sure they work with this project.

=== ROBOT BOM ===
[[File:Choking-Hazard-Image.jpg|right|350px]]

* ''Electronics:''
** Passive Piezo Buzzer module and 3 wire cable (see image) [[File:Passive-Piezo-Buzzer-Module.jpg|right|thumb|Passive Piezo Buzzer Module]]
** Arduino Nano, 5V, 16 mHz, ATMEGA328 or similar (marked R in our kit to indicate it is pre-loaded with robot software)
** Rotary potentiometer, 10K Ohms, 6mm shaft diameter, with 3 wires pre-soldered. Also, matching dial cap and nut.
** 1 x HC05 BlueTooth Module with 4 x F-F jumper wires for making connections (Note: the HC05 has six pins but only four are used in this project. Also, this is in the Gamepad Parts bag if you purchase our kit.)
** 1 x Servo Controller module (Adafruit 16-channel 12-bit I2C PWM/Servo driver or Adafruit clone) with F-F jumper wires for making connections, plus 1 two-pin shunt tying V+ to VCC
** 12 x MG90 micro servo motors and associated servo horns (you will only use the single-arm horn). NOTE: If your kit includes O-rings or washers, you will need to use those on the shaft of the hip servos only. These are needed for digital servos only. Many counterfeit servos claim to be digital but are really analog and don't need the washers. For more information see [[Tower Pro MG90S Vs. Clones]].
** 1 x Power distribution wiring with on/off switch, Battery holder for two 18650 cells, 3A 5V BEC, and female connectors to distribute power. If you are self-sourcing see our [[Vorpal The Hexapod Battery/Switch Construction|Circuit Diagrams]].
* ''3D Printed Parts:''
** 1 x Chassis
** 1 x Cap
** 6 x Legs (individually marked with servo numbers)
** 1 x Switch adapter
** 12 x Servo bracket U-shaped halves
** 1 x Electronics Caddy
** 1 x Stand
** 1 x Eye/glasses Decoration
** 1 x Joust game accessory with "rider"
** 1 x Capture the Flag game accessory with flag and cup.
** 1 x Fidget Spinner Challenge game accessory (no Fidget Spinner, just the stand)
** 1 x Ultrasonic Rangefinder Bracket
* ''Miscellaneous:''
** 9 x 10mm diameter pairs of hook and loop self-stick circular dots. These go on the hexapod cap (hook) and accessories like eyes and nameplates (loop).
** 7 x 10mm diameter by 3mm thick ceramic magnet, north pole marked. These are for Capture-the-Flag and Joust accessories. (Note: Not included in Bare Bones kit).
** 12 x socket head cap screw, 2.5mm diameter by 8mm long (for servo horns)
** 3 x #6-32 x 1/2" screw to fasten on/off switch adapter (2) and to hold electronics caddy on chassis (3)
** 2 x #6-32 x 3/4" screw for bottom two holes in accessory port.
** 2 x #6-32 x 1/2" screw for top two holes in the accessory port.
** 4 x #6-32 nuts to hold screws in accessory port.
** 2 x #6-32 wingnuts to attach accessories to accessory port.
** 1 x L shaped hex driver, 2mm, for both kinds of screw used in the kit.

=== GAMEPAD BOM ===
[[File:Choking-Hazard-Image.jpg|right|350px]]
* ''Electronics:''
** 1 x Battery/Switch Wiring Unit with 9v battery clip. (Note: the gamepad requires no BEC so you can use this fact to distinguish from the robot wiring unit)
** 1 x 4x4 button matrix with associated connecting wires. The matrix we use is marked YL-102 in the corner. See the picture. It's blue and has the keys number K1 through K16. You may be able to use others but the pin numbers may differ. [[File:4x4-Matrix.png|right|250px]]
** 1 x Dpad Button module with associated connecting wires. The one we use is marked Keyes_AD_Key and has yellow buttons and a red circuit board. See picture. [[File:Keyes-AD-Key.PNG|right|250px]]
** 1 x HC05 Bluetooth module and four wires to connect it
** 1 x microSD Card Reader module and six wires to connect it, and a microSD card that is compatible with the Arduino SD library. A microSD card is required for record/play features to work. The capacity should be 2 gb or less, either SD or SDHC format. The gamepad can be used to format the card for use by Arduino (hold down W4 while booting the gamepad, count to 10 slowly, release W4).
** 1 x Ardunio Nano, 5V, 16 mHz, ATMEGA328 or similar (marked "G" in our kit to indicate it is pre-loaded with Gamepad software). Note: For MAC users it is far easier to get Scratch to work if the gamepad Nano uses an FTDI serial chip instead of a CHG34X chip. Our kits use the more expensive FTDI version of the Nano in the Gamepad for this reason.
* ''3D Printed Plastic Parts:''
** 1 x Gamepad base plastic part
** 1 x Gamepad top plastic part
** 1 x Gamepad button carrier
** NOTE: Gamepad Base versions before April 2018 also required 1 x Switch Adapter
* ''Fasteners:''
** 4 x #6-32 x 1/2" screw to hold cover on gamepad (4) and also to hold switch adapter on base (2)
** NOTE: Gamepad Base versions before April 2018 also required 2 more of these screws to hold on the switch adapter.

=== Sensors ===
These are included in the Deluxe version of our kit. They're mainly useful for Scratch programming activities.
* 1 x HCSR04 Ultrasonic Rangefinder
* 1 x Analog Light sensor
* 1 x 30cm USB cord type A to mini

==3D Printing the Plastic Parts==

===Obtaining the STL Files===

You can find all the current STL files here: [http://tinyurl.com/VORPALFILES VORPAL FILES]. Go to the STL folder. The Vorpal Hexapod STLs are in the subfolder ROBOT and the gamepad parts are in GAMEPAD. There are subfolders with accessories (such as sensor housings and game pieces).

===Printing Notes and Tips===

This project has been finely tuned to make it easy to 3D print. No supports are required for any of the parts. In some cases you may want to use brims or rafts to help parts adhere to the print surface. There is minimal bridging, never farther than about 15mm (5/8"). Some of the parts do require some flexibility, for example the sides of the servo compartments need to bend outward while the servos are inserted, they then snap back into place when the servo is completely inserted. This means brittle plastics like PLA are not the best choice for this project. (Although we have made PLA hexapods and they do work if you're careful when inserting the servos).

This page assumes you have basic familiarity with 3D printing and 3D printing terminology. If not, you might want to reference online materials such as youtube videos or information from your 3D printer manufacturer before attempting this project.

If you are 3D printing the plastic parts (as opposed to buying them pre-printed), here are some tips.

* MINIMUM PRINTER REQUIREMENTS
** The bed size should be at least 150mm cube (5.9 inches cube). The largest part is the hexapod base so it is the limiting factor on bed size.
** A heated bed is strongly recommended, especially if you are printing in ABS.
* RECOMMENDED PLASTICS
** ABS and PETG both work well. When we sell Full Kits and Assembled Vorpals we use ABS.
** PLA is somewhat brittle, but it will work if you're careful. Inserting the servos into the legs and hips will somewhat flex the plastic so be careful during that process with PLA. Attaching the two halves of the leg hinges together can be more successful in PLA if you first soak the hinges in very hot tap water to soften up the plastic a bit.
* PRINT SETTINGS. We print using the following settings on a Lulzbot TAZ 6 or Lulzbot Mini with 0.5mm nozzle:
** 0.38 layer thickness (or whatever layer thickness is optimal for your printer)
** 1mm walls (i.e. two perimeters)
** 1.14mm top and bottom (i.e. three layers)
** 15% infill
** You can print with thinner layers if your printer does not support 0.38mm layers or if you want a more refined look, it will just take longer.
* BRIMS AND RAFTS
** Brims or rafts are recommended for the following hexapod parts: Base, Legs, Electronics Caddy, Cap. This ensures proper bed retention to avoid warping. These parts have relatively little contact area with the print bed, or have certain sections with little contact.
** Brims/rafts are not recommended on any of the other parts. The other parts generally have enough bed surface contact that they will print fine without brims. Your mileage may vary however and it is recommended that you keep a close eye on the first few layers of the print to make sure everything is sticking properly. If not, you can cancel the job with minimal loss of plastic then restart with brims or rafts.
** We personally prefer brims (such as available in Cura) as they are easy to remove and leave a clean look.
* POST PRINT
**Other than removing brims/rafts and the occasional drip, there is not any special post-processing required after printing.
**However, be very careful to inspect the hemispheres jutting out of one side of each of the servo holders, these need to be as low friction as possible. Inspect for drips and defects. If necessary, use a file or sand paper to smooth them out.

== Building the Robot ==

You will need the following tools:
* 2mm hex key. A 5/64 inch hex key will also work. This is in the Hexapod Parts bag. (NOTE: Some very early kits put this in the Deluxe Parts Bag).
* A marker that can write on dark plastic and still be seen, such as Sharpie Metallic or Sharpie Oil markers (white and yellow work great).
** This is the easiest way to mark servo wires with their corresponding leg number
** If you don't have these types of marker, you could use clear tape and bits of paper to tape wire labels near the socket end of the servo cable. Don't put labels right on the black plastic connectors at the end of the servo because you'll make them too thick to fit side by side when plugged in.
===Servo Pre Check===
Sometimes the servo motor gearbox will get locked up when sitting for a long time, for example during shipping, especially in cold weather. The following procedure will ensure they work properly. (Note: Some MG90S servo bags distributed in the past with our kits say not to turn the servo horn, these instructions supercede that note on the bag).

* Put a one-arm servo horn on each servo. You don't need a screw, just put it on in any random position for now.
* ''Slowly'' and ''gently'' rock the servo horn by hand so it turns. Do not use a lot of force. Note that there is a physical stop that only allows it to turn 180 degrees. If you push in one direction and it won't move, rock it in the other direction.
* As soon as it moves, even just 10 or 20 degrees in either direction, you've confirmed the servo is not locked. Do not leave it at an extreme position where it stops, leave it somewhere around the middle.
If any servo fails to move with modest pressure and a gentle rocking motion, put a mark on that servo, near where the wire comes out. It will most likely unfreeze when power is applied, but you need to keep an eye on it for now.

===Step by Step Instructions===

*'''STEP 1: Insert accessory port screws in the chassis''' Insert 5/8" #6-32 hex head screws in the bottom two holes of the accessory port, head of the screw inside the hexapod, then tighten nuts outside. Repeat for the top two accessory holes with shorter 1/2" #6-32 hex head screws. The heads of the screws recess into hexogonal holes so you don't need to use pliers inside the robot body, just for the nuts. Two wingnuts go on the two lower screws, these will be used to secure accessories such as the Joust lance or Capture-the-Flag attachment.
<gallery mode=packed>
File:Hexhead-Screw.JPG|Be sure to use the hex head screws for the accessory port.
File:Accessory-Port-Diagram-V2.JPG|The accessory port is considered the "front" of the robot.
File:Accessory-Port-Screws.JPG|Longer hex head screws go on the bottom. Do not overtighten the nuts.
File:Wing-Nuts-Installed.JPG|After installing the nuts, put the wingnuts on the bottom screws. They'll be used later to secure accessories.
</gallery>
*'''STEP 2: Insert servos in the chassis.'''
** Next, insert the servo into the chassis as shown in the diagrams below. As you insert the servo into the chassis, slowly press it straight into place until it clicks in under the small tab on one side of the servo holder. Make sure it stays straight as you push down.
** Immediately mark the black connector at the end of the wire to indicate the servo number (which is engraved in the top of the servo holder, a number between 0 and 5).
*** A metallic sharpie pen works very well for this, or a light colored oil paint sharpie such as white.
*** If you don't have any of those things, a little piece of masking tape can be affixed to the wire and marked, or you could use clear cellophane tape to attach little bits of marked paper to the wire. Do not attach any tape or paper to the black connector, as it will be a tight fit when connecting later.
*** The wire coming out of the servo sticks out away from the robot, the servo shaft would face down toward the table top if the chassis were resting on the table.
** After inserting the servo, thread the wire through the top servo wire guide hole, and into the center of the chassis.
[[File:ServoChassisInsert.png|400px|Insert Servo in Chassis]]
[[File:spacerimage.png|100px|Insert Servo in Chassis]]
[[File:ServoHipInserted.png|140px|Insert Servo in Chassis]]
* '''STEP 3: Insert the servos in the Legs.''' The technique is very similar to inserting the servo into the chassis.
**Insert the servo straight into the leg socket so that the wire is coming out of the servo facing away from the plastic leg and the face of the servo with the shaft and servo horn goes into the open faced side of the leg, as shown in the diagram.
**The servos in the legs are called the "knee" servos. Each leg has a higher number on it, this is the knee number, they run from 6 to 11. Again, write this number on the black connector at the end of the servo wire. PRO TIP: For 6 and 9, underline the number so you don't read them upside down!
[[File:Servo-Insert-Leg-v2.png|350px|Insert Servo in Legs]]
[[File:spacerimage.png|100px|Insert Servo in Chassis]]
[[File:Servo-Leg-Inserted-v2.png|350px|Insert Servo in Legs]]
* '''STEP 4: Thread each leg servo wire''' into the bottom wire guide slot on the chassis. Each leg servo should be matched with a hip servo plus 6. The legs are marked with the hip number near the top and the knee number below that. For example, the leg marked 6 should be threaded through the wire guide on hip servo 0, leg 7 goes with hip 1, leg 8 goes with hip 2, etc. Add 6 to the hip number to get the leg number.
* '''STEP 5: Build the electrical system.''' You need to power up the servos and make them seek to the 90 degree position, this will allow you to adjust the legs properly for walking.
** STEP 5A: Take the potentiometer and remove the cap, then unscrew the nut and set these items aside for now. Push the potentiometer shaft from the inside of the chassis, into the hole that has the markings "STOP", "TST", etc. The wires coming out of the potentiometer should be pointing down and you may need to bend them a bit to make it all fit. Put the retaining nut on the potentiometer, hand tighten first and then give it just another half turn or so with pliers if desired. Turn the knob all the way counter clockwise, then insert the knob so it points to the letter "O" in the word "STOP".
** STEP 5B: Find the on/off switch (which is attached to the battery holder assembly). There was a change to how this was installed in October, 2019. The older version requires a "switch adapter," while the new version just uses a slot to feed in the wires. The two sets of diagrams below illustrate both the old and the new way of installing the switch.
New Version Switch Installation:
<gallery mode=packed heights=200>
File:NewSwitchInstall-Step1.jpg|Thread the switch and its wires through the Base, there is an opening under the switch hole.
File:NewSwitchInstall-Step2.jpg|Bring the wires up through the slot below the switch hole.
File:NewSwitchInstall-Step3.jpg|Press the switch into the hole, it should snap into place. The "1" should be on top.
</gallery>
Old Version Switch Installation (before about mid October 2019):
<gallery mode=packed>
File:Assembly-Switch-Bracket-Insertion.JPG|Thread the wires through the gap in the adapter
File:Assembly-Switch-Bracket-Done.JPG|Press the switch into the adapter.
File:Assembly-Switch-Bracket-Insertion-into-Base.JPG|From the inside of the robot, line up the switch/adapter with the switch hole.
File:Assembly-Switch-Bracket-in-Base.JPG|While holding the switch/adapter in place, insert screws from the outside of the robot.
</gallery>
** STEP 5C: If you do not have a "QuickBuild" version of the kit, then make all the connections listed in the ELECTRICAL CONNECTIONS section of these instructions below. Be extremely careful about the power connections. Double check all connections before powering on. If you do have a QuickBuild kit, all the connections are already made for you.
[[File:Servo-Horn-Orientation.png|thumb|right|The servo horn should come straight out from the body at a 90 degree angle as shown here. Do not turn the servo shaft by hand until after it has moved under power!]]
* '''STEP 6: Power up!''' Make sure the on/off switch is off, and the knob is turned to STOP. Insert batteries and power on the robot using the on/off switch. You should hear a beep, a pause, then a second beep. The servos should all twitch into position. If the robot does not move at all, immediately turn the switch off and check your connections again. If some of the servos don't move (especially any you marked during the servo pre-check) then gently push them with power off to see if you can free them up. If they still won't move, try pushing them with power applied, but turn off the power within 30 seconds if they're locked up. If you can't get the servo to move it will need to be replaced.
* '''STEP 7: Insert Servo Horns.''' The servo horns are all at random angles right now due to the servo pre-check. In this step we'll make them point in the right direction. The knee servos are not at 90 degrees when the knob is all the way counter clockwise, rather they are at a 30 degree standing angle. We need to get them to 90 degrees so its easy to align the servo horn. Turn the knob very slightly clockwise and you will see all the knee servos twitch. This is "adjust servo horn mode". All servos (knees and hips) are now at their halfway point, 90 degrees. Now you need to take each single arm servo horn and carefully insert it on the shaft so that it is sticking straight out as shown in the figure. You will not always be able to make the horn come totally straight out. This is because there are only 22 little groves (splines) in each shaft, meaning you can in general only come within about 8 degrees of being at a perfect 90 degree angle. This amount of error is acceptable, just get it as close as you can. It is better for the horn to be a little too much clockwise than to be a little too much counterclockwise, especially for the knees. Do this for all hip and knee servos. Do not insert any screws yet.
[[File:Servo-Bracket-Alignment-v1.png|thumb|350px|right|Align the leg hinges as shown here. The bumps (see arrows) should both be near each other when properly aligned. Hold one in each hand with the ends of the U shape between thumb and forefinger.]]
* '''STEP 8: Assemble the leg hinges'''. Each leg hinge is composed of two identical U-shaped parts. Take one in each hand and align the two so that the bump (shown in the diagram at the right) are both near each other. Turn one 90 degrees with respect to the other.
**Gently squeeze each piece between thumb and forefinger, which causes the little jaws in the center to open up slightly. Work the two halves together. Squeeze just enough so they work their way on, no more or you might break the part!.
**At this stage, you may notice that the parts are loosely clamped on each other. Don't worry! When you place the leg hinges over a servo, the servo will spread it apart and they will lock together tightly.
* '''STEP 9: Attach Leg Hinges.''' The leg hinges connect the hips to the knees. They only go on one way. First place the end that matches the servo horn on, then you need to very slightly bend the U shaped piece while pulling it over the hemispherical bearing on the other side. It's a little easier to do the knees (servos mounted to legs) first, followed by the hips (servos on base).
**NOTE: It should not be excessively difficult to push the hinge over the hemispherical bearing. If you find you are struggling, that means the hinges are too tight. This may affect walking. This can be due to the kind of plastic you used or how your printer is adjusted. You may need to gently spread the two legs of the U shape by hand before putting the hinge on the robot. Be careful of course not to break the hinge.
* '''STEP 10: Test Knee Positions.''' Turn the knob fully counter clockwise (to STOP) and the robot will go into "stand still" mode. Place it on a level surface such as a table top. Do all of the legs touch the ground? If one or more legs don't touch the ground, you need to adjust the servo horn on the knee a little bit so it does touch. Gently pull off the servo bracket. Pull the servo horn off, and put it back on just a little bit moved so the leg would move closer to the ground. Put the servo bracket back on, and see how it looks. Do this until all legs are at least slightly touching the ground. Again, you can't necessarily be perfect due to the 8 degree increments the servo horns can be moved. But you should be able to be close enough that all legs at least slightly touch the ground.
* '''STEP 11: Insert Servo Screws.''' Now that the legs are adjusted, you can insert the M2.5x8 screws into the servo horns to lock them in place. Note that you will NOT be using the screws that were in the little bag the servos came in, you'll be using the separate pack of screws, which are longer than the ones in the servo bag. Do not overtighten these screws, as you could possibly crack the servo brackets. Just turn the screws until you start to feel resistance, then turn a quarter turn more and stop.
* '''STEP 12: Test Individual Servos.''' To test whether every servo is working, put the robot on its stand. Then start with the knob on STOP, then slowly turn it clockwise. First the servos will go into adjust mode, you used that a moment ago to set the servo horns. But, keep going, and the robot will go into "individual servo test mode". In this mode, every hip servo will move, one by one. When all the hips have moved, every leg will move, one by one. You should see every servo move, in order. If some don't move, check your connections. A common error is to plug a servo connector into the servo controller backwards (i.e. the brown wire is matched with the yellow pin instead of the black pin).
{| class="wikitable" align=right style="float:right; background:transparent; margin: {{{margins|1em 1em 1em 1em}}}; {{{style|}}}"
|-
| <youtube>5T7E1IqHxNc|Electronics Caddy Tutorial</youtube>
|}
* '''STEP 13: Test Using Demo Mode.''' Ok, everything looks good, so time for a full test. Turn the knob to STOP, then take the robot off the stand and put it on the floor. Turn the knob to DEMO, and the robot will go through a series of movements to demonstrate some of the things it can do. The full demo only takes about 30 seconds, then repeats. Here, you are looking for the robot to, for example, be able to get back up off the floor after doing some of its dance moves. If the robot struggles to get off the floor, you may have a battery that is not fully charged, or there may be too much friction between the servo bracket and the little ball socket it sits in. A tiny bit of silicone lubricant will usually fix that problem, or just make sure those parts are cleaned up from 3D printing and don't have an excess strands of material that are causing friction. See the [[Vorpal Combat_Hexapod Troubleshooting Guide|Trouble Shooting Guide]] for more information about different kinds of issues that can occur.
* '''STEP 14: Store the Electronics in the Caddy''' Now things look pretty messy with all those wires hanging loose, let's clean it up by stowing them in the electronics caddy. Please reference the video and diagrams here for quick instructions.
** '''STEP 14A: Insert Caddy Bars''' Insert the two electronics caddy bars as shown in the diagrams below. Notice carefully how they are inserted. You may need to slightly squeeze the forked section at the end to work it into the hole. Once inside, it may be difficult to remove because it will snap into place, so be sure you're putting it in the right way.
<gallery mode=packed>
File:Electronics-Caddy-Insert-Bar.JPG|Here one bar has already been inserted, the other is being put into place. Notice the orientation, don't put it in upside down. The little nubs at the end should be facing the caddy.
</gallery>
** '''STEP 14B: Insert the Servo Controller and Arduino Nano''' The diagrams here do not show the wires to make them easier to visualize. Carefully insert the servo controller as shown, making sure you don't pull out any of the wires. You may need to wiggle the electronics caddy bar from side to side a bit so that components can slide past it during insertion. Notice that the end of the Servo controller with wires sticking out of it must go in last. Carefully insert the Arduino Nano as shown, making sure you don't pull out any of the wires. You may need to wiggle the electronics caddy bar from side to side a bit so that components can slide past it during insertion. Notice that the end of the Nano that has the USB port must go in last.
<gallery mode=packed>
File:Electronics-Caddy-Insert-ServoController.JPG|Insert the servo controller so it is sandwiched between the bar and the electronics caddy. Wires not shown for clarity.
File:Electronics-Caddy-Insert-Nano.JPG|Insert the Nano so that the USB port faces out away from the electronics caddy, this allows you to access it without disassembling the robot.
File:Electronics-Caddy-Assembled-Underside.JPG|This is what the underside of the electronics caddy looks like after inserting the Servo Controller and Arduino Nano. Wires not shown for clarity.
</gallery>
** '''STEP 14C: Insert the HC05 Bluetooth Module''' The diagrams here do not show the wires to make them easier to visualize. The HC05 Bluetooth module with a name beginning with "S" should be used for the robot. For example, the label will read something like "VORP S2944" (the number will differ). The one marked "M" will be used for the gamepad. Slide the HC05 into the side drawer as shown. When inserting, be careful not to pull out the wires, which will be a little tight. Work the wires into the little space provided so they stay clear of the robot's cap when it gets screwed on later.
<gallery mode=packed>
File:Electronics-Caddy-Insert-HC05.JPG|Insert the HC05 into the side drawer as shown.
File:Electronics-Caddy-Assembled-HC05.JPG|When fully inserted, the indicator light will still be visible through the small oval. The wires should be tucked into the little cavity near the pins of the HC05.
</gallery>
* '''STEP 15: Assemble the Cap'''
** '''STEP 15A: Put hook-and-loop dots in the Cap''' Insert a "hook" circular self-stick dot in each of the 10mm circular holder areas in the cap. Do not use the fuzzy "loop" side of the hook-and-loop pair, use the "hook" side of the pair. Press firmly so the glue backing sticks firmly to the plastic. NOTE: Older versions of this project used magnets on the cap and eye decorations. If you are assembling an older version, press the magnet into the cap firmly (you may need to use pliers) and make sure the marked face (north pole) is showing. On accessories like eyes, make sure the unmarked face (south pole) is showing.
** '''STEP 15B: Decorate''' If desired, use a permanent marker to color the Vorpal "V" on top of the Cap. Oil markers work well. On light colors of plastic a black permanent marker will also work.
** '''STEP 15C: Put Cap on the Hexapod''' Screw the cap on the robot by lining up the tabs with the matching slots in the rim of the base. Turn the cap clockwise to lock it in place. IMPORTANT: Do not press down on the robot to insert the cap when the robot is under power standing on its legs! You can damage the leg motors by doing this. It is best to turn the robot off, and either support the bottom of the Base with one hand and press the Cap on with the other, or set the Base down on the table top or floor with legs out to the sides so they don't take pressure.
* '''STEP 16: Bounce Pads''' There is a foam pad with a peel-off self-sticking side. This goes on the bottom of the robot. It allows dance moves that slam the robot to the floor to be safe for the robot's parts.
<gallery mode=packed>
File:Robot-Foam-Installation.JPG|Peel off the paper and stick the foam on the bottom of the robot.
</gallery>
* '''STEP 17: Warning Label''' There are two a self-stick choking hazard warning labels in the hexapod parts bag. Peel the backing off one of them and place it on the bottom of the robot, near the center of the foam. Retain the second label for the gamepad.

== Building the Gamepad ==
[[File:Gamepad-Overall-Assembly-Exploded.png|thumb|600px|right|Gamepad order of parts during assembly (wires not shown for clarity).]]
To go beyond demo mode, you need to build the Vorpal Gamepad. The Vorpal Gamepad allows you to call up many different actions by the hexapod such as walking, turning, dancing, or fighting. The gamepad can also be used as a transmitter to allow Scratch programs to wirelessly control your robot from a computer.

=== Part 1: Gamepad Electrical System (Skip if using a QuickBuild kit) ===

If you DO NOT have a "QuickBuild" version of our kit, then you must first assemble the electrical components of the gamepad as follows. Please SKIP this entire section if you have a QuickBuild version of our kit, and proceed to Part 2.

* '''STEP 1: Attach cables to the button matrix.''' Pull 8 wires off the Dupont wire bundle. The colors don't really matter so just take 8 adjacent wires and leave them together if possible. Carefully push these 8 wires, in order, onto the pins coming out of the 4x4 button matrix. Make sure the wire connectors don't "swap places" by twisting under each other, it is very important that the order be correct.
[[File:Gamepad-Electronics-Layout.png|thumb|right|400 px|Layout of Electronic Boards. Left to right: Arduino Nano, HC05 Bluetooth Module, and SD Card reader. (wires are left out of diagram for clarity)]]

* '''STEP 2: Attach cables to the yellow D-PAD buttons.''' Pull three wires off the Dupont wire bundle of the following colors: red, black, white. Plug the white wire into the yellow D-PAD button module's pin marked OUT (output). The middle pin marked VCC gets the red wire, and the pin marked GND gets the black wire.

* '''STEP 3: Connect the electrical system wires.''' Using the connections indicated in the section below on electrical wiring, plug in all the wires for the Arduino Nano, HC05 Bluetooth module, SD Card Reader, and button modules.

=== Part 2: Inserting Gamepad Components into Plastic Base ===

* '''STEP 1: Install the switch.'''
** If you printed version V1R8c or later, or you received printed parts from us in or after April, 2018: Gamepad Base designs before April, 2018 required a switch adapter to be installed in a similar way to the hexapod robot Base, however that was eliminated in version V1R8c of the Gamepad. With the new design you just leave the switch hanging out of the switch hole on the back of the base until you screw on the top of the gamepad, then you press fit the switch into the resulting rectangular hole.
** If you printed gamepad Base versions earlier than V1r8c or you received printed parts from us before April, 2018: Take the switch/battery assembly and use two #6-32 screws 1/2" long to attach it on the inside wall of the gamepad base, in the rectangular hole. The switch itself is sandwiched between the gamepad wall and a switch adapter (the same switch adapter model used for the robot is used for the gamepad, you need to print two of them). DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN THE SCREWS.

* ''' STEP 2: Place the buttons''' Place the 4x4 button matrix and also the yellow D-PAD button module in the matching places on the button bracket. The yellow D-PAD buttons should be placed down first, and you may need to slightly bend the pins downward. The 4x4 button matrix also should have its pins slightly bent downward, then its wires will go on top of the wires coming out of the yellow D-PAD button module.
**NOTE: The yellow caps on the D-PAD buttons are optional. We normally remove these because we have found that in demo situations some people, especially young children, will press the yellow buttons so hard that they dislodge the caps. They will press right back on, it's not a problem really, however they may think they broke the controller. We feel it's better just to take them off.

* '''STEP 3: Insert the Arduino Nano.''' The Arduino Nano should be oriented such that its USB port is coming out the square hole on the left side of the base, and all the outgoing wires from the Nano are coming out toward the front of the base. Once in place, gently push the side of the Nano opposite of the USB port until it clicks into place, securing it.

* ''' STEP 4: Insert the HC05 Bluetooth Module.''' Slip the HC05 Bluetooth module under the U shaped bracket near the center of the gamepad base. Its lights should be facing upward, they will be visible through holes in the top of the gamepad and this helps you know that the gamepad is turned on.

* '''STEP 5: Put it all together.''' Put the 9v battery clip inside the battery box area of the base. Place the button bracket on top of the base, then place the gamepad top on the button bracket, sandwiching the button modules in place. Align the four screw holes in the corners with the matching holes on the base and secure with four #6-32 screws 1/2" long. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN. NOTE: You might want to just put two screws in, and don't even put them all the way in, until you test the gamepad. In that way, if it does not work, you can easily open it back up to check connections.

'''STEP 6: Detect D-PAD Style''' Turn the gamepad's switch to the OFF (0) position, then insert a charged 9v battery. Hold down the top button on the D-PAD module (the one above the grouping of four directional buttons). While still holding this button, turn the switch to the ON (1) position, you should see lights come on inside the gamepad. Count slowly to ten, then release the D-PAD button. This procedure causes the gamepad to detect what kind of D-PAD is being used so that it may interpret the button presses correctly. You only need to do this once (or after swapping in a new D-PAD module, for example after a repair). The setting is stored in nonvolatile EEPROM on the gamepad's Arduino Nano.

* '''STEP 7: Test!''' Turn the switch to "0" (off). Connect a 9v battery to the 9v battery clip then slide the battery door onto the base. Turn the switch to "1" (on). Lights should be visible through the holes. Turn the hexapod's dial all the way clockwise, to "RC" thus putting it in Bluetooth mode. Turn the hexapod on and wait a few seconds for it to completely boot. Try to control the robot! Try hitting each of the top three rows of 4x4 matrix buttons (W, F, D) one by one, and test to make sure every mode functions. If most modes work but a couple do not, you may have swapped some wires coming off the matrix.

* '''STEP 8: Decorate''' If desired, use a marker to darken the Vorpal "V" symbol, the W, F, D, R markings, the 0 and 1 switch markings, and the record/play symbols under the 4x4 button matrix. This will make them more visible as well as making the gamepad look nicer. We like using oil based paint markers. For dark colored plastics, use a white oil paint marker, for light colored plastics use black, blue, or red to contrast with the plastic color.

'''STEP 9: Warning Label''' There were two a self-stick choking hazard warning labels in the hexapod parts bag. You used one for the robot. Peel the backing off the other and place it on the bottom of the gamepad, being sure not to interfere with the battery drawer.

= Trimming the Servos =
When you assembled the servo horns onto the servos, you probably were not able to get them all to come out exactly at a 90 degree angle. That's not your fault: the servo horns only have 22 possible positions in which they can be installed, so at best you can come within plus or minus 8 degrees of perfection.

Now that you have the gamepad working, you can make fine adjustments to the servo positions using "Trim Mode". In this special gamepad mode, you can adjust all the servos. These adjustments are saved in the robot's EEPROM, which is memory on the Nano that retains data even when powered off. So, you only need to trim once.

Complete instructions on how to use trim mode are in the wiki page: [[Vorpal The Hexapod Trim Mode Guide]].

NOTE: although this step is optional, it is recommended because your robot will walk straighter and all the servos will share equally in lifting the robot's weight, which will make them last longer.

=Assembling Game Accessories and Nameplates=
Most of the accessory pieces require no assembly, or just require press fitting magnets into round holes or attaching self-stick velcro.

When inserting magnets, the rule is: anything that attaches to the robot via the accessory port screws should have the dimpled side of the magnet ''showing'', and anything that is supposed to attach to the robot or a screwed-on accessory should have the dimple side ''down, not showing''.

Based on this rule, the dimpled side of the magnet should '''not''' show for these items:
* Flag
* Joust Rider
* Name plate

And the dimple ''should'' be showing for these items:
* Capture the Flag Arm
* Joust Lance

==Assembling Sensors==
The light sensor and ultrasonic rangefinder sensor can be assembled with two screws each. The sensor module is sandwiched in between two plastic pieces. These screws are in the Deluxe Parts Bag. The screws will self-thread into the plastic. Do not overtighten or you will strip the plastic and the screws won't hold. When the screw head is all the way down, stop turning.

The ultrasonic rangefinder sensor attaches to the accessory port screws.

The light sensor wedges into one of the slotted holes in the cap.
==Electrical Connections: Robot==

NOTE: If you have a QuickBuild version of our kit, this information is for reference only. All the connections are already made in QuickBuild kits. This information might still be useful if you are an advanced user who may want to add new electrical components or modify the system.

===NOTES ON JUMPER WIRES===

This section is for self-source builders and Bare Bones Kit builders. Quickbuild kits are pre-wired and electrical systems are fully tested, so you can skip this section if you have a Quickbuild kit.

====Wire Lengths====
There are two different lengths of female-female Dupont jumper wires used to make most connections. The longer ones (20cm) are only used for the Hexapod's accessory port connections. The shorter ones are used for all the connections on the Gamepad and all the connections on the Hexapod between the Arduino Nano, Servo controller and Bluetooth module.

====Wire Color Conventions====

Please follow these conventions when selecting wire colors:
* For +5V, Vin, and similar positive voltage connections, use either RED or ORANGE.
* For GND and other negative electrical connections, use BLACK or BROWN.
* For the connectors that sit at the mouth of the accessory port (used for optional sensors) colors are suggested below in the instructions. By following these suggestions you will make your life easier when connecting sensors!
* For all other connections, you can use any color you want, it's arbitrary.

====If Jumper Wires Are Too Loose====
Sometimes you will find a wire whose connector does not grip the pin well enough. It might fall off very easily or just by gravity alone. If that happens, you have a few options:
* There are extra wires in your kit. If you find a wire that's too loose, just use a different wire.
* Using the hex key, you can put the jumper housing on a flat surface then press on the metal showing through the plastic connector, which will tighten up the jumper wire's grip. Don't go too overboard on pressing though or you might make it too hard to insert.
* Alternatively, you could use electrical tape after inserting all the wires on a module (such as the Nano) to effectively attach together all the little plastic female connector housings. In that way, the connectors that do grip will help hold in the ones that are too loose. Some people also like using hot glue for this purpose. (Personally, I don't like using hot glue, as it makes it harder to change connections if you hooked something up incorrectly.)

===NANO PIN CONNECTIONS===
NOTE: If you are using our Quickbuild kit, this information is for reference only. Quickbuild kit wiring is already completed and tested.

[[File:Hexapod-Nano-Diagram.JPG|thumb|600px|right|Diagram of Nano connections for the Hexapod. Jumpers marked AP are routed to the Accessory Port for use with add-ons like sensors. Click for larger image.]]
* ''Digital IO Pins:''
** D0, D1 are reserved because they are used for uploading programs to the robot, so nothing will be connected there.
** D2 Bluetooth Module Rx
** D3 Bluetooth Module Tx
** D4 Buzzer Signal (white wire)
** D5, D6 NO CONNECTION. These pins are reserved for future expansion.
** D7 20cm GREEN Dupont connector routed to accessory port, used for Ultrasonic Rangefinder TRIG
** D8 20cm BLUE Dupont connector routed to accessory port, used for Ultrasonic Rangefinder ECHO
** D9 No connection. This pin is reserved for future expansion.
** D10 through D13 are reserved for the optional CMUCAM5 (Pixie) sensor accessory.

* ''Analog Pins:''
** A0 Potentiometer signal (white wire)
** A1 Potentiometer Power (red wire)
** A2 Potentiometer Ground (black wire)
** A3 20cm YELLOW Dupont connector routed to the accessory port, for the optional light sensor or other analog sensors.
** A4 Servo Controller SDA
** A5 Servo Controller SCL
** A6 20cm PURPLE Dupont connector, routed to the accessory port, for any analog sensor you wish to optionally add later.
** A7 No connection, reserved for future use.

* ''Power Pins:''
** VIN pin on Nano connects to Battery positive (the red Dupont connector coming off near the switch on the wiring module)
** GND pin on Nano connects to Battery negative (the black Dupont connector coming off the battery black wire)
** Second GND pin on Nano (there are two GND pins on the Nano) connects to the GND pin on the HC05 module
** +5V on Nano connects to HC05 +5V Pin

IMPORTANT NOTE: The red Dupont connector coming off the switch/battery assembly must go to VIN and never +5V, because the battery voltage is much higher than +5 volts. You will more or less instantly destroy your Nano if you put unregulated battery power directly into the +5V pin. The VIN pin has its own voltage regulator. The +5V pin on the Nano will be used to provide regulated power to the Bluetooth module.

=== Bluetooth Module Power ===
* +5V on HC05 connects to Nano +5V pin
* GND on HC05 connects to either of the two Nano GND pins

=== Buzzer Power ===
* Connect the buzzer V+ and ground (marked "-") pins (red and black respectively) to Port 13 of the Servo Controller, matching black and red wires to black and red pins on the Servo Controller. You will be using the special three wire cable provided for this purpose. It has a three-pin connector one one side, and the other side has a two-pin connector and a one-pin connector. The one-pin connector goes to the Nano and provides the signal to drive the buzzer. The two-pin connector is plugged into Servo Controller Port 13.

=== Servo Controller ===
[[File:ServoController-Pin-Labels.JPG|thumb|600px|right|Diagram of Servo Controller pins you will use in this project. Each servo motor has a 3 wire connector. Match the brown servo wire with the black color coded pin in its servo port, match the yellow wire with the yellow pin. Click for larger image.]]
* Connect the 12 servos to port numbers corresponding to the servo marking (0 to 11). Make sure the signal wire (yellow) is oriented correctly and matches the yellow plastic header pin.
* Connect the switch/battery module regulated BEC output (a three pin Dupont connector where only two of the pins are populated, one with a red V+ wire, one with a black ground wire) to servo controller port 12 power and ground. Make sure the RED wire is going to VCC (red pin) and the BLACK wire goes to GND (black pin).
* On one short side of the Servo Controller you will find a VCC and V+ pin right next to each other. Use a shunt (small black connector that goes over two pins) to connect those together if one is not already installed. This shunt causes both the servos and the microprocessor to run at the same +5V level.
* SDA and SCL go to A4 and A5 on the Nano, respectively.
* Servo port 12 RED and BLACK pins are connected to the output of the BEC. Make sure the BEC RED wire matches with the RED pin, and the BEC BALCK wire matches with the BLACK pin.
* Servo port 13 RED and BLACK pins are connected to the passive buzzer power connector. Make sure the buzzer BLACK wire matches the BLACK pin, and the RED wire matches the RED pin.
* Servo port 14 RED pin goes to a 20cm ORANGE Dupont connector and is routed to the accessory port to provide +5V for sensors or other accessories.
* Servo port 14 BLACK pin goes to a 20cm BROWN Dupont connector and is routed to the accessory port to provide GND for sensors or other accessories.
* Servo port 15 RED terminal goes to a 20cm RED Dupont connector and is routed to the accessory port to provide +5V for sensors or other accessories.
* Servo port 15 BLACK terminal goes to 20cm BLACK Dupont connector and is routed to the accessory port to provide ground for sensors or other accessories.
* Servo port 15 signal terminal goes to 20cm WHITE Dupont connector and is routed to the accessory port to provide signal for a servo used in an optional accessory.

===Accessory Port Wire Bundle===
The 20cm wires connected to the Nano and Servo Controller provide access to digital ports, analog ports, and power for accessories such as sensors, lights, or other projects. These wires should be bundled up near their unconnected ends (a rubber band works well for keeping them all together) and routed to the large opening below the accessory port hex head screws on the chassis. When there is no accessory in use, these wires can remain tucked inside the accessory port. When needed, pull them out a few inches and connect to sensors or other electrical accessories.

=== Connecting the HC-SR04 Ultrasonic Rangefinder to the Accessory Port ===
When building the robot you routed longer jumper wires (20cm) to the accessory port. You need four of these wires to use the Ultrasonic Rangefinder:

* RED accessory port wire goes to HC-SR04 VCC
* BLACK accessory port wire goes to HC-SR04 GND
* GREEN accessor port wire goes to HC-SR04 TRIG
* BLUE accessory port wire goes to HC-SR04 ECHO

The Scratch block assumes you've used this setup.

=== Connecting the Light Sensor (or any Arduino compatible 5 volt analog sensor) ===
* RED or ORANGE accessory port wire goes to the center pin, which is usually unmarked (may also be marked +5V, Vcc or Vin) on the sensor
* BLACK or BROWN accessory port wire goes to the ground pin on the sensor, which is usually marked with a minus sign (-) or may be marked GND or G.
* YELLOW (A3) accessory port wire goes to the Signal pin on the sensor. This is often marked (S) but on some sensors may have other markings.
** You may also use PURPLE (A6) for a sensor (or a second sensor)
** The Scratch Sensor block allows you to choose A3 (YELLOW) or A6 (PURPLE) sensor ports.

=== A note on how many things can be connected through the accessory port===
We are providing two sets of power connectors at the accessory port for sensors or other accessories. RED/BLACK and ORANGE/BROWN each respectively provide +5V/GND. It's up to you what things you want to connect using these. You could have one or two sensors, you could have a sensor and some kind off motorized accessory. You could have a sensor and an LED light strip, etc.

Nothing is stopping you from creating a Y connector to make additional power connections, except that there is a limit of 3 amps of current that you can pull from the battery/BEC system. The robot itself needs up to 2.5 amps during fast motions. But many sensors can operate on just a few milliamps. Adding a motorized accessory is where you would need to be careful about how much current you're pulling from the system. If you pull too much current, typically the BEC will overheat and go into thermal protection mode, which will shut down all the motors until you reboot the robot. It is possible to use a mini servo under moderate load for a motorized accessory, but a full sized servo under heavy load might be too much. Use caution when designing your own accessories, especially if they are going to use more than a few hundred milliamps of current.

=== Robot Screw Sizes ===
* Servo horn screws: 12 x M2.5 by 8mm long
* Switch assembly: 2 x #6-32 by 1/2" long

==Electrical Connectons: Gamepad==
NOTE: If you have a QuickBuild version of our kit, this information is for reference only. All the connections are already made in QuickBuild kits. This information might still be useful if you are an advanced user who may want to add new electrical components or modify the system.

=== GAMEPAD NANO PIN CONNECTIONS ===
[[File:Gamepad-Nano-Diagram-v3.JPG|thumb|600px|right|Diagram of Nano connections for the Gamepad. Click for larger image.]]
* D2 through D9 are connected to the button matrix pins.Looking from the top of the button matrix module, the rightmost button matrix pin (labeled 1) goes to D9, second to right (labeled 2) to D8, etc.
* D10 to SD card CS (may be labelled SS on some SD card readers)
* D11 to SD card MOSI
* D12 to SD card MISO
* D13 to SD card SCK (may be labelled SCL on some SD card readers)

* A0 Unused
* A1 Dpad OUT (white wire)
* A2 Dpad VCC (red wire)
* A3 Dpad GND (black wire)
* A4 HC05 Bluetooth Module Rx
* A5 HC05 Bluetooth Module Tx
* A6, A7 Unused

* VIN battery/switch positive (red wire)
* GND Either ground on the Nano goes to the battery/switch negative (black wire)
* ICSP pin 4 (see diagram): SD card reader GND. Note: Quickbuild kits do not use this, there's an extra GND wire soldered into the circuit for the SD card reader.
* ICSP pin 6 (see diagram): SD card reader VCC. Note: Quickbuild kits do not use this, there's an extra +5V wire soldered into the circuit for the SD card reader.
* Nano +5V pin goes to HC05 +5V pin
* Nano GND pin (there are two, you can use either one) goes to HCO5 GND pin

=== GAMEPAD: Screw Sizes ===

* Gamepad Cover, 4 x #6-32 by 1/2" long
* For kits prior to October 2019: switch adapter assembly, 2 x #6-32 by 1/2" long

{{Vorpal Quick Links}}

Vorpal The Hexapod Assembly Instructions

2022-04-08T12:27:43Z

Vorpalwiki: /* Hexapod Build Video Tutorial */

{{float_box|{{VCH Quick Links}} }}
==VIDEO BUILD INSTRUCTIONS==
Besides the printed instructions further down on this page, we have two great video build tutorials created by Teaching Tech, a great YouTube channel. Please consider subscribing to "Teaching Tech," as they have great 3d printing related videos.
The printed instructions are diagrams may still be helpful in conjunction with these videos.

===Gamepad Build Video Tutorial===
If the video does not play on your device (or you want full screen), go directly to YouTube with this link: [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9ePTrEtEFWI TEACHING TECH GAMEPAD BUILD VIDEO]
 
<youtube>9ePTrEtEFWI|Gamepad Build</youtube>
 

===Hexapod Build Video Tutorial (Bare Bones Kit)===
If the video below does not play on your device (or you want full screen), go directly to YouTube with this link: [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cf1dBCwsE0o&rel=0 TEACHING TECH ROBOT BUILD VIDEO]

IMPORTANT NOTE: This video was made using the "Bare Bones" kit which requires a lot more assembly than the current "Quick Build" kits. It may still be useful for reference, because many of the steps are the same, such as plugging the servo wires into the servo controller. But there is no longer any need to make individual wire connections to the nano, for example, so those parts of the video can be skipped if you have the Quick Build kit.
 
<youtube>cf1dBCwsE0o|Hexapod Build</youtube>
 

==BILL OF MATERIALS (BOM) FOR VORPAL H12 HEXAPOD==
===Notes on Sourcing Parts===
* Full kits of parts as well as individual parts are available on [http://vorpal-robotics-store.myshopify.com The Vorpal Robotics Store]. If you are new to Arduino, wiring, and robotics we strongly recommend you purchase a kit instead of trying to self-source parts. The kits cut 3 to 4 hours off the build time, bringing it to typically 1 to 1.5 hours for Quickbuild kits and 2 to 2.5 hours for Bare Bones kits. The kits have all soldering done, programs are already loaded on the Nanos, Bluetooth modules are properly configured to auto-pair on boot, and you know you have all the right parts to work together.
* These instructions assume you have purchased a kit from us. If you are sourcing your own parts, please be aware of the following additional information:
**If you are sourcing your own parts, you need to build the switch/battery connector assembly. For diagrams see [[Vorpal Combat Hexapod Battery/Switch Construction]].
**Also see important information on that page if you are sourcing your own BEC.
**If you are sourcing your own Bluetooth modules, please be aware that you will need to configure them to auto-pair and to have a UART speed of 38400 BAUD. Every module brand is a bit different so it's not possible for us to give you universal instructions on how to program them. We assume that if you source your own parts you are familiar with how to configure Bluetooth modules using AT-commands.
* IMPORTANT NOTE ON SELF-SOURCED HC05 MODULES: It has come to our attention that some vendors are now selling HC05 modules that have an issue that causes extremely long lag times on transmissions (1.5 to 2 full seconds) due to an unusual way of buffering output. This makes the robot unusable due to nonresponsiveness. Unfortunately there is no visible model number or other information that allows you to tell which ones will have this issue just by looking at the vendor's listing. Please be aware that the HC05 modules we sell are the correct ones that don't have this issue. We are working on software changes that might solve this problem by changing how we pad out our radio packets, however that is considered beta code at this point (it might affect scratch programs). We are actively looking for some way to distinguish the bad modules from the good ones but there are just too many variations of this chip to be sure. In addition, some of the bad modules also have an issue where they overheat. The overheating does not have to do with the 3.3v TR pin, it happens even if a voltage divider is used on TR. We believe that one is just a defect in the circuit board. The bottom line is, yeah, you're getting extra value when you buy parts from us: we stand behind them and we make sure they work with this project.

=== ROBOT BOM ===
[[File:Choking-Hazard-Image.jpg|right|350px]]

* ''Electronics:''
** Passive Piezo Buzzer module and 3 wire cable (see image) [[File:Passive-Piezo-Buzzer-Module.jpg|right|thumb|Passive Piezo Buzzer Module]]
** Arduino Nano, 5V, 16 mHz, ATMEGA328 or similar (marked R in our kit to indicate it is pre-loaded with robot software)
** Rotary potentiometer, 10K Ohms, 6mm shaft diameter, with 3 wires pre-soldered. Also, matching dial cap and nut.
** 1 x HC05 BlueTooth Module with 4 x F-F jumper wires for making connections (Note: the HC05 has six pins but only four are used in this project. Also, this is in the Gamepad Parts bag if you purchase our kit.)
** 1 x Servo Controller module (Adafruit 16-channel 12-bit I2C PWM/Servo driver or Adafruit clone) with F-F jumper wires for making connections, plus 1 two-pin shunt tying V+ to VCC
** 12 x MG90 micro servo motors and associated servo horns (you will only use the single-arm horn). NOTE: If your kit includes O-rings or washers, you will need to use those on the shaft of the hip servos only. These are needed for digital servos only. Many counterfeit servos claim to be digital but are really analog and don't need the washers. For more information see [[Tower Pro MG90S Vs. Clones]].
** 1 x Power distribution wiring with on/off switch, Battery holder for two 18650 cells, 3A 5V BEC, and female connectors to distribute power. If you are self-sourcing see our [[Vorpal The Hexapod Battery/Switch Construction|Circuit Diagrams]].
* ''3D Printed Parts:''
** 1 x Chassis
** 1 x Cap
** 6 x Legs (individually marked with servo numbers)
** 1 x Switch adapter
** 12 x Servo bracket U-shaped halves
** 1 x Electronics Caddy
** 1 x Stand
** 1 x Eye/glasses Decoration
** 1 x Joust game accessory with "rider"
** 1 x Capture the Flag game accessory with flag and cup.
** 1 x Fidget Spinner Challenge game accessory (no Fidget Spinner, just the stand)
** 1 x Ultrasonic Rangefinder Bracket
* ''Miscellaneous:''
** 9 x 10mm diameter pairs of hook and loop self-stick circular dots. These go on the hexapod cap (hook) and accessories like eyes and nameplates (loop).
** 7 x 10mm diameter by 3mm thick ceramic magnet, north pole marked. These are for Capture-the-Flag and Joust accessories. (Note: Not included in Bare Bones kit).
** 12 x socket head cap screw, 2.5mm diameter by 8mm long (for servo horns)
** 3 x #6-32 x 1/2" screw to fasten on/off switch adapter (2) and to hold electronics caddy on chassis (3)
** 2 x #6-32 x 3/4" screw for bottom two holes in accessory port.
** 2 x #6-32 x 1/2" screw for top two holes in the accessory port.
** 4 x #6-32 nuts to hold screws in accessory port.
** 2 x #6-32 wingnuts to attach accessories to accessory port.
** 1 x L shaped hex driver, 2mm, for both kinds of screw used in the kit.

=== GAMEPAD BOM ===
[[File:Choking-Hazard-Image.jpg|right|350px]]
* ''Electronics:''
** 1 x Battery/Switch Wiring Unit with 9v battery clip. (Note: the gamepad requires no BEC so you can use this fact to distinguish from the robot wiring unit)
** 1 x 4x4 button matrix with associated connecting wires. The matrix we use is marked YL-102 in the corner. See the picture. It's blue and has the keys number K1 through K16. You may be able to use others but the pin numbers may differ. [[File:4x4-Matrix.png|right|250px]]
** 1 x Dpad Button module with associated connecting wires. The one we use is marked Keyes_AD_Key and has yellow buttons and a red circuit board. See picture. [[File:Keyes-AD-Key.PNG|right|250px]]
** 1 x HC05 Bluetooth module and four wires to connect it
** 1 x microSD Card Reader module and six wires to connect it, and a microSD card that is compatible with the Arduino SD library. A microSD card is required for record/play features to work. The capacity should be 2 gb or less, either SD or SDHC format. The gamepad can be used to format the card for use by Arduino (hold down W4 while booting the gamepad, count to 10 slowly, release W4).
** 1 x Ardunio Nano, 5V, 16 mHz, ATMEGA328 or similar (marked "G" in our kit to indicate it is pre-loaded with Gamepad software). Note: For MAC users it is far easier to get Scratch to work if the gamepad Nano uses an FTDI serial chip instead of a CHG34X chip. Our kits use the more expensive FTDI version of the Nano in the Gamepad for this reason.
* ''3D Printed Plastic Parts:''
** 1 x Gamepad base plastic part
** 1 x Gamepad top plastic part
** 1 x Gamepad button carrier
** NOTE: Gamepad Base versions before April 2018 also required 1 x Switch Adapter
* ''Fasteners:''
** 4 x #6-32 x 1/2" screw to hold cover on gamepad (4) and also to hold switch adapter on base (2)
** NOTE: Gamepad Base versions before April 2018 also required 2 more of these screws to hold on the switch adapter.

=== Sensors ===
These are included in the Deluxe version of our kit. They're mainly useful for Scratch programming activities.
* 1 x HCSR04 Ultrasonic Rangefinder
* 1 x Analog Light sensor
* 1 x 30cm USB cord type A to mini

==3D Printing the Plastic Parts==

===Obtaining the STL Files===

You can find all the current STL files here: [http://tinyurl.com/VORPALFILES VORPAL FILES]. Go to the STL folder. The Vorpal Hexapod STLs are in the subfolder ROBOT and the gamepad parts are in GAMEPAD. There are subfolders with accessories (such as sensor housings and game pieces).

===Printing Notes and Tips===

This project has been finely tuned to make it easy to 3D print. No supports are required for any of the parts. In some cases you may want to use brims or rafts to help parts adhere to the print surface. There is minimal bridging, never farther than about 15mm (5/8"). Some of the parts do require some flexibility, for example the sides of the servo compartments need to bend outward while the servos are inserted, they then snap back into place when the servo is completely inserted. This means brittle plastics like PLA are not the best choice for this project. (Although we have made PLA hexapods and they do work if you're careful when inserting the servos).

This page assumes you have basic familiarity with 3D printing and 3D printing terminology. If not, you might want to reference online materials such as youtube videos or information from your 3D printer manufacturer before attempting this project.

If you are 3D printing the plastic parts (as opposed to buying them pre-printed), here are some tips.

* MINIMUM PRINTER REQUIREMENTS
** The bed size should be at least 150mm cube (5.9 inches cube). The largest part is the hexapod base so it is the limiting factor on bed size.
** A heated bed is strongly recommended, especially if you are printing in ABS.
* RECOMMENDED PLASTICS
** ABS and PETG both work well. When we sell Full Kits and Assembled Vorpals we use ABS.
** PLA is somewhat brittle, but it will work if you're careful. Inserting the servos into the legs and hips will somewhat flex the plastic so be careful during that process with PLA. Attaching the two halves of the leg hinges together can be more successful in PLA if you first soak the hinges in very hot tap water to soften up the plastic a bit.
* PRINT SETTINGS. We print using the following settings on a Lulzbot TAZ 6 or Lulzbot Mini with 0.5mm nozzle:
** 0.38 layer thickness (or whatever layer thickness is optimal for your printer)
** 1mm walls (i.e. two perimeters)
** 1.14mm top and bottom (i.e. three layers)
** 15% infill
** You can print with thinner layers if your printer does not support 0.38mm layers or if you want a more refined look, it will just take longer.
* BRIMS AND RAFTS
** Brims or rafts are recommended for the following hexapod parts: Base, Legs, Electronics Caddy, Cap. This ensures proper bed retention to avoid warping. These parts have relatively little contact area with the print bed, or have certain sections with little contact.
** Brims/rafts are not recommended on any of the other parts. The other parts generally have enough bed surface contact that they will print fine without brims. Your mileage may vary however and it is recommended that you keep a close eye on the first few layers of the print to make sure everything is sticking properly. If not, you can cancel the job with minimal loss of plastic then restart with brims or rafts.
** We personally prefer brims (such as available in Cura) as they are easy to remove and leave a clean look.
* POST PRINT
**Other than removing brims/rafts and the occasional drip, there is not any special post-processing required after printing.
**However, be very careful to inspect the hemispheres jutting out of one side of each of the servo holders, these need to be as low friction as possible. Inspect for drips and defects. If necessary, use a file or sand paper to smooth them out.

== Building the Robot ==

You will need the following tools:
* 2mm hex key. A 5/64 inch hex key will also work. This is in the Hexapod Parts bag. (NOTE: Some very early kits put this in the Deluxe Parts Bag).
* A marker that can write on dark plastic and still be seen, such as Sharpie Metallic or Sharpie Oil markers (white and yellow work great).
** This is the easiest way to mark servo wires with their corresponding leg number
** If you don't have these types of marker, you could use clear tape and bits of paper to tape wire labels near the socket end of the servo cable. Don't put labels right on the black plastic connectors at the end of the servo because you'll make them too thick to fit side by side when plugged in.
===Servo Pre Check===
Sometimes the servo motor gearbox will get locked up when sitting for a long time, for example during shipping, especially in cold weather. The following procedure will ensure they work properly. (Note: Some MG90S servo bags distributed in the past with our kits say not to turn the servo horn, these instructions supercede that note on the bag).

* Put a one-arm servo horn on each servo. You don't need a screw, just put it on in any random position for now.
* ''Slowly'' and ''gently'' rock the servo horn by hand so it turns. Do not use a lot of force. Note that there is a physical stop that only allows it to turn 180 degrees. If you push in one direction and it won't move, rock it in the other direction.
* As soon as it moves, even just 10 or 20 degrees in either direction, you've confirmed the servo is not locked. Do not leave it at an extreme position where it stops, leave it somewhere around the middle.
If any servo fails to move with modest pressure and a gentle rocking motion, put a mark on that servo, near where the wire comes out. It will most likely unfreeze when power is applied, but you need to keep an eye on it for now.

===Step by Step Instructions===

*'''STEP 1: Insert accessory port screws in the chassis''' Insert 5/8" #6-32 hex head screws in the bottom two holes of the accessory port, head of the screw inside the hexapod, then tighten nuts outside. Repeat for the top two accessory holes with shorter 1/2" #6-32 hex head screws. The heads of the screws recess into hexogonal holes so you don't need to use pliers inside the robot body, just for the nuts. Two wingnuts go on the two lower screws, these will be used to secure accessories such as the Joust lance or Capture-the-Flag attachment.
<gallery mode=packed>
File:Hexhead-Screw.JPG|Be sure to use the hex head screws for the accessory port.
File:Accessory-Port-Diagram-V2.JPG|The accessory port is considered the "front" of the robot.
File:Accessory-Port-Screws.JPG|Longer hex head screws go on the bottom. Do not overtighten the nuts.
File:Wing-Nuts-Installed.JPG|After installing the nuts, put the wingnuts on the bottom screws. They'll be used later to secure accessories.
</gallery>
*'''STEP 2: Insert servos in the chassis.'''
** Next, insert the servo into the chassis as shown in the diagrams below. As you insert the servo into the chassis, slowly press it straight into place until it clicks in under the small tab on one side of the servo holder. Make sure it stays straight as you push down.
** Immediately mark the black connector at the end of the wire to indicate the servo number (which is engraved in the top of the servo holder, a number between 0 and 5).
*** A metallic sharpie pen works very well for this, or a light colored oil paint sharpie such as white.
*** If you don't have any of those things, a little piece of masking tape can be affixed to the wire and marked, or you could use clear cellophane tape to attach little bits of marked paper to the wire. Do not attach any tape or paper to the black connector, as it will be a tight fit when connecting later.
*** The wire coming out of the servo sticks out away from the robot, the servo shaft would face down toward the table top if the chassis were resting on the table.
** After inserting the servo, thread the wire through the top servo wire guide hole, and into the center of the chassis.
[[File:ServoChassisInsert.png|400px|Insert Servo in Chassis]]
[[File:spacerimage.png|100px|Insert Servo in Chassis]]
[[File:ServoHipInserted.png|140px|Insert Servo in Chassis]]
* '''STEP 3: Insert the servos in the Legs.''' The technique is very similar to inserting the servo into the chassis.
**Insert the servo straight into the leg socket so that the wire is coming out of the servo facing away from the plastic leg and the face of the servo with the shaft and servo horn goes into the open faced side of the leg, as shown in the diagram.
**The servos in the legs are called the "knee" servos. Each leg has a higher number on it, this is the knee number, they run from 6 to 11. Again, write this number on the black connector at the end of the servo wire. PRO TIP: For 6 and 9, underline the number so you don't read them upside down!
[[File:Servo-Insert-Leg-v2.png|350px|Insert Servo in Legs]]
[[File:spacerimage.png|100px|Insert Servo in Chassis]]
[[File:Servo-Leg-Inserted-v2.png|350px|Insert Servo in Legs]]
* '''STEP 4: Thread each leg servo wire''' into the bottom wire guide slot on the chassis. Each leg servo should be matched with a hip servo plus 6. The legs are marked with the hip number near the top and the knee number below that. For example, the leg marked 6 should be threaded through the wire guide on hip servo 0, leg 7 goes with hip 1, leg 8 goes with hip 2, etc. Add 6 to the hip number to get the leg number.
* '''STEP 5: Build the electrical system.''' You need to power up the servos and make them seek to the 90 degree position, this will allow you to adjust the legs properly for walking.
** STEP 5A: Take the potentiometer and remove the cap, then unscrew the nut and set these items aside for now. Push the potentiometer shaft from the inside of the chassis, into the hole that has the markings "STOP", "TST", etc. The wires coming out of the potentiometer should be pointing down and you may need to bend them a bit to make it all fit. Put the retaining nut on the potentiometer, hand tighten first and then give it just another half turn or so with pliers if desired. Turn the knob all the way counter clockwise, then insert the knob so it points to the letter "O" in the word "STOP".
** STEP 5B: Find the on/off switch (which is attached to the battery holder assembly). There was a change to how this was installed in October, 2019. The older version requires a "switch adapter," while the new version just uses a slot to feed in the wires. The two sets of diagrams below illustrate both the old and the new way of installing the switch.
New Version Switch Installation:
<gallery mode=packed heights=200>
File:NewSwitchInstall-Step1.jpg|Thread the switch and its wires through the Base, there is an opening under the switch hole.
File:NewSwitchInstall-Step2.jpg|Bring the wires up through the slot below the switch hole.
File:NewSwitchInstall-Step3.jpg|Press the switch into the hole, it should snap into place. The "1" should be on top.
</gallery>
Old Version Switch Installation (before about mid October 2019):
<gallery mode=packed>
File:Assembly-Switch-Bracket-Insertion.JPG|Thread the wires through the gap in the adapter
File:Assembly-Switch-Bracket-Done.JPG|Press the switch into the adapter.
File:Assembly-Switch-Bracket-Insertion-into-Base.JPG|From the inside of the robot, line up the switch/adapter with the switch hole.
File:Assembly-Switch-Bracket-in-Base.JPG|While holding the switch/adapter in place, insert screws from the outside of the robot.
</gallery>
** STEP 5C: If you do not have a "QuickBuild" version of the kit, then make all the connections listed in the ELECTRICAL CONNECTIONS section of these instructions below. Be extremely careful about the power connections. Double check all connections before powering on. If you do have a QuickBuild kit, all the connections are already made for you.
[[File:Servo-Horn-Orientation.png|thumb|right|The servo horn should come straight out from the body at a 90 degree angle as shown here. Do not turn the servo shaft by hand until after it has moved under power!]]
* '''STEP 6: Power up!''' Make sure the on/off switch is off, and the knob is turned to STOP. Insert batteries and power on the robot using the on/off switch. You should hear a beep, a pause, then a second beep. The servos should all twitch into position. If the robot does not move at all, immediately turn the switch off and check your connections again. If some of the servos don't move (especially any you marked during the servo pre-check) then gently push them with power off to see if you can free them up. If they still won't move, try pushing them with power applied, but turn off the power within 30 seconds if they're locked up. If you can't get the servo to move it will need to be replaced.
* '''STEP 7: Insert Servo Horns.''' The servo horns are all at random angles right now due to the servo pre-check. In this step we'll make them point in the right direction. The knee servos are not at 90 degrees when the knob is all the way counter clockwise, rather they are at a 30 degree standing angle. We need to get them to 90 degrees so its easy to align the servo horn. Turn the knob very slightly clockwise and you will see all the knee servos twitch. This is "adjust servo horn mode". All servos (knees and hips) are now at their halfway point, 90 degrees. Now you need to take each single arm servo horn and carefully insert it on the shaft so that it is sticking straight out as shown in the figure. You will not always be able to make the horn come totally straight out. This is because there are only 22 little groves (splines) in each shaft, meaning you can in general only come within about 8 degrees of being at a perfect 90 degree angle. This amount of error is acceptable, just get it as close as you can. It is better for the horn to be a little too much clockwise than to be a little too much counterclockwise, especially for the knees. Do this for all hip and knee servos. Do not insert any screws yet.
[[File:Servo-Bracket-Alignment-v1.png|thumb|350px|right|Align the leg hinges as shown here. The bumps (see arrows) should both be near each other when properly aligned. Hold one in each hand with the ends of the U shape between thumb and forefinger.]]
* '''STEP 8: Assemble the leg hinges'''. Each leg hinge is composed of two identical U-shaped parts. Take one in each hand and align the two so that the bump (shown in the diagram at the right) are both near each other. Turn one 90 degrees with respect to the other.
**Gently squeeze each piece between thumb and forefinger, which causes the little jaws in the center to open up slightly. Work the two halves together. Squeeze just enough so they work their way on, no more or you might break the part!.
**At this stage, you may notice that the parts are loosely clamped on each other. Don't worry! When you place the leg hinges over a servo, the servo will spread it apart and they will lock together tightly.
* '''STEP 9: Attach Leg Hinges.''' The leg hinges connect the hips to the knees. They only go on one way. First place the end that matches the servo horn on, then you need to very slightly bend the U shaped piece while pulling it over the hemispherical bearing on the other side. It's a little easier to do the knees (servos mounted to legs) first, followed by the hips (servos on base).
**NOTE: It should not be excessively difficult to push the hinge over the hemispherical bearing. If you find you are struggling, that means the hinges are too tight. This may affect walking. This can be due to the kind of plastic you used or how your printer is adjusted. You may need to gently spread the two legs of the U shape by hand before putting the hinge on the robot. Be careful of course not to break the hinge.
* '''STEP 10: Test Knee Positions.''' Turn the knob fully counter clockwise (to STOP) and the robot will go into "stand still" mode. Place it on a level surface such as a table top. Do all of the legs touch the ground? If one or more legs don't touch the ground, you need to adjust the servo horn on the knee a little bit so it does touch. Gently pull off the servo bracket. Pull the servo horn off, and put it back on just a little bit moved so the leg would move closer to the ground. Put the servo bracket back on, and see how it looks. Do this until all legs are at least slightly touching the ground. Again, you can't necessarily be perfect due to the 8 degree increments the servo horns can be moved. But you should be able to be close enough that all legs at least slightly touch the ground.
* '''STEP 11: Insert Servo Screws.''' Now that the legs are adjusted, you can insert the M2.5x8 screws into the servo horns to lock them in place. Note that you will NOT be using the screws that were in the little bag the servos came in, you'll be using the separate pack of screws, which are longer than the ones in the servo bag. Do not overtighten these screws, as you could possibly crack the servo brackets. Just turn the screws until you start to feel resistance, then turn a quarter turn more and stop.
* '''STEP 12: Test Individual Servos.''' To test whether every servo is working, put the robot on its stand. Then start with the knob on STOP, then slowly turn it clockwise. First the servos will go into adjust mode, you used that a moment ago to set the servo horns. But, keep going, and the robot will go into "individual servo test mode". In this mode, every hip servo will move, one by one. When all the hips have moved, every leg will move, one by one. You should see every servo move, in order. If some don't move, check your connections. A common error is to plug a servo connector into the servo controller backwards (i.e. the brown wire is matched with the yellow pin instead of the black pin).
{| class="wikitable" align=right style="float:right; background:transparent; margin: {{{margins|1em 1em 1em 1em}}}; {{{style|}}}"
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| <youtube>5T7E1IqHxNc|Electronics Caddy Tutorial</youtube>
|}
* '''STEP 13: Test Using Demo Mode.''' Ok, everything looks good, so time for a full test. Turn the knob to STOP, then take the robot off the stand and put it on the floor. Turn the knob to DEMO, and the robot will go through a series of movements to demonstrate some of the things it can do. The full demo only takes about 30 seconds, then repeats. Here, you are looking for the robot to, for example, be able to get back up off the floor after doing some of its dance moves. If the robot struggles to get off the floor, you may have a battery that is not fully charged, or there may be too much friction between the servo bracket and the little ball socket it sits in. A tiny bit of silicone lubricant will usually fix that problem, or just make sure those parts are cleaned up from 3D printing and don't have an excess strands of material that are causing friction. See the [[Vorpal Combat_Hexapod Troubleshooting Guide|Trouble Shooting Guide]] for more information about different kinds of issues that can occur.
* '''STEP 14: Store the Electronics in the Caddy''' Now things look pretty messy with all those wires hanging loose, let's clean it up by stowing them in the electronics caddy. Please reference the video and diagrams here for quick instructions.
** '''STEP 14A: Insert Caddy Bars''' Insert the two electronics caddy bars as shown in the diagrams below. Notice carefully how they are inserted. You may need to slightly squeeze the forked section at the end to work it into the hole. Once inside, it may be difficult to remove because it will snap into place, so be sure you're putting it in the right way.
<gallery mode=packed>
File:Electronics-Caddy-Insert-Bar.JPG|Here one bar has already been inserted, the other is being put into place. Notice the orientation, don't put it in upside down. The little nubs at the end should be facing the caddy.
</gallery>
** '''STEP 14B: Insert the Servo Controller and Arduino Nano''' The diagrams here do not show the wires to make them easier to visualize. Carefully insert the servo controller as shown, making sure you don't pull out any of the wires. You may need to wiggle the electronics caddy bar from side to side a bit so that components can slide past it during insertion. Notice that the end of the Servo controller with wires sticking out of it must go in last. Carefully insert the Arduino Nano as shown, making sure you don't pull out any of the wires. You may need to wiggle the electronics caddy bar from side to side a bit so that components can slide past it during insertion. Notice that the end of the Nano that has the USB port must go in last.
<gallery mode=packed>
File:Electronics-Caddy-Insert-ServoController.JPG|Insert the servo controller so it is sandwiched between the bar and the electronics caddy. Wires not shown for clarity.
File:Electronics-Caddy-Insert-Nano.JPG|Insert the Nano so that the USB port faces out away from the electronics caddy, this allows you to access it without disassembling the robot.
File:Electronics-Caddy-Assembled-Underside.JPG|This is what the underside of the electronics caddy looks like after inserting the Servo Controller and Arduino Nano. Wires not shown for clarity.
</gallery>
** '''STEP 14C: Insert the HC05 Bluetooth Module''' The diagrams here do not show the wires to make them easier to visualize. The HC05 Bluetooth module with a name beginning with "S" should be used for the robot. For example, the label will read something like "VORP S2944" (the number will differ). The one marked "M" will be used for the gamepad. Slide the HC05 into the side drawer as shown. When inserting, be careful not to pull out the wires, which will be a little tight. Work the wires into the little space provided so they stay clear of the robot's cap when it gets screwed on later.
<gallery mode=packed>
File:Electronics-Caddy-Insert-HC05.JPG|Insert the HC05 into the side drawer as shown.
File:Electronics-Caddy-Assembled-HC05.JPG|When fully inserted, the indicator light will still be visible through the small oval. The wires should be tucked into the little cavity near the pins of the HC05.
</gallery>
* '''STEP 15: Assemble the Cap'''
** '''STEP 15A: Put hook-and-loop dots in the Cap''' Insert a "hook" circular self-stick dot in each of the 10mm circular holder areas in the cap. Do not use the fuzzy "loop" side of the hook-and-loop pair, use the "hook" side of the pair. Press firmly so the glue backing sticks firmly to the plastic. NOTE: Older versions of this project used magnets on the cap and eye decorations. If you are assembling an older version, press the magnet into the cap firmly (you may need to use pliers) and make sure the marked face (north pole) is showing. On accessories like eyes, make sure the unmarked face (south pole) is showing.
** '''STEP 15B: Decorate''' If desired, use a permanent marker to color the Vorpal "V" on top of the Cap. Oil markers work well. On light colors of plastic a black permanent marker will also work.
** '''STEP 15C: Put Cap on the Hexapod''' Screw the cap on the robot by lining up the tabs with the matching slots in the rim of the base. Turn the cap clockwise to lock it in place. IMPORTANT: Do not press down on the robot to insert the cap when the robot is under power standing on its legs! You can damage the leg motors by doing this. It is best to turn the robot off, and either support the bottom of the Base with one hand and press the Cap on with the other, or set the Base down on the table top or floor with legs out to the sides so they don't take pressure.
* '''STEP 16: Bounce Pads''' There is a foam pad with a peel-off self-sticking side. This goes on the bottom of the robot. It allows dance moves that slam the robot to the floor to be safe for the robot's parts.
<gallery mode=packed>
File:Robot-Foam-Installation.JPG|Peel off the paper and stick the foam on the bottom of the robot.
</gallery>
* '''STEP 17: Warning Label''' There are two a self-stick choking hazard warning labels in the hexapod parts bag. Peel the backing off one of them and place it on the bottom of the robot, near the center of the foam. Retain the second label for the gamepad.

== Building the Gamepad ==
[[File:Gamepad-Overall-Assembly-Exploded.png|thumb|600px|right|Gamepad order of parts during assembly (wires not shown for clarity).]]
To go beyond demo mode, you need to build the Vorpal Gamepad. The Vorpal Gamepad allows you to call up many different actions by the hexapod such as walking, turning, dancing, or fighting. The gamepad can also be used as a transmitter to allow Scratch programs to wirelessly control your robot from a computer.

=== Part 1: Gamepad Electrical System (Skip if using a QuickBuild kit) ===

If you DO NOT have a "QuickBuild" version of our kit, then you must first assemble the electrical components of the gamepad as follows. Please SKIP this entire section if you have a QuickBuild version of our kit, and proceed to Part 2.

* '''STEP 1: Attach cables to the button matrix.''' Pull 8 wires off the Dupont wire bundle. The colors don't really matter so just take 8 adjacent wires and leave them together if possible. Carefully push these 8 wires, in order, onto the pins coming out of the 4x4 button matrix. Make sure the wire connectors don't "swap places" by twisting under each other, it is very important that the order be correct.
[[File:Gamepad-Electronics-Layout.png|thumb|right|400 px|Layout of Electronic Boards. Left to right: Arduino Nano, HC05 Bluetooth Module, and SD Card reader. (wires are left out of diagram for clarity)]]

* '''STEP 2: Attach cables to the yellow D-PAD buttons.''' Pull three wires off the Dupont wire bundle of the following colors: red, black, white. Plug the white wire into the yellow D-PAD button module's pin marked OUT (output). The middle pin marked VCC gets the red wire, and the pin marked GND gets the black wire.

* '''STEP 3: Connect the electrical system wires.''' Using the connections indicated in the section below on electrical wiring, plug in all the wires for the Arduino Nano, HC05 Bluetooth module, SD Card Reader, and button modules.

=== Part 2: Inserting Gamepad Components into Plastic Base ===

* '''STEP 1: Install the switch.'''
** If you printed version V1R8c or later, or you received printed parts from us in or after April, 2018: Gamepad Base designs before April, 2018 required a switch adapter to be installed in a similar way to the hexapod robot Base, however that was eliminated in version V1R8c of the Gamepad. With the new design you just leave the switch hanging out of the switch hole on the back of the base until you screw on the top of the gamepad, then you press fit the switch into the resulting rectangular hole.
** If you printed gamepad Base versions earlier than V1r8c or you received printed parts from us before April, 2018: Take the switch/battery assembly and use two #6-32 screws 1/2" long to attach it on the inside wall of the gamepad base, in the rectangular hole. The switch itself is sandwiched between the gamepad wall and a switch adapter (the same switch adapter model used for the robot is used for the gamepad, you need to print two of them). DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN THE SCREWS.

* ''' STEP 2: Place the buttons''' Place the 4x4 button matrix and also the yellow D-PAD button module in the matching places on the button bracket. The yellow D-PAD buttons should be placed down first, and you may need to slightly bend the pins downward. The 4x4 button matrix also should have its pins slightly bent downward, then its wires will go on top of the wires coming out of the yellow D-PAD button module.
**NOTE: The yellow caps on the D-PAD buttons are optional. We normally remove these because we have found that in demo situations some people, especially young children, will press the yellow buttons so hard that they dislodge the caps. They will press right back on, it's not a problem really, however they may think they broke the controller. We feel it's better just to take them off.

* '''STEP 3: Insert the Arduino Nano.''' The Arduino Nano should be oriented such that its USB port is coming out the square hole on the left side of the base, and all the outgoing wires from the Nano are coming out toward the front of the base. Once in place, gently push the side of the Nano opposite of the USB port until it clicks into place, securing it.

* ''' STEP 4: Insert the HC05 Bluetooth Module.''' Slip the HC05 Bluetooth module under the U shaped bracket near the center of the gamepad base. Its lights should be facing upward, they will be visible through holes in the top of the gamepad and this helps you know that the gamepad is turned on.

* '''STEP 5: Put it all together.''' Put the 9v battery clip inside the battery box area of the base. Place the button bracket on top of the base, then place the gamepad top on the button bracket, sandwiching the button modules in place. Align the four screw holes in the corners with the matching holes on the base and secure with four #6-32 screws 1/2" long. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN. NOTE: You might want to just put two screws in, and don't even put them all the way in, until you test the gamepad. In that way, if it does not work, you can easily open it back up to check connections.

'''STEP 6: Detect D-PAD Style''' Turn the gamepad's switch to the OFF (0) position, then insert a charged 9v battery. Hold down the top button on the D-PAD module (the one above the grouping of four directional buttons). While still holding this button, turn the switch to the ON (1) position, you should see lights come on inside the gamepad. Count slowly to ten, then release the D-PAD button. This procedure causes the gamepad to detect what kind of D-PAD is being used so that it may interpret the button presses correctly. You only need to do this once (or after swapping in a new D-PAD module, for example after a repair). The setting is stored in nonvolatile EEPROM on the gamepad's Arduino Nano.

* '''STEP 7: Test!''' Turn the switch to "0" (off). Connect a 9v battery to the 9v battery clip then slide the battery door onto the base. Turn the switch to "1" (on). Lights should be visible through the holes. Turn the hexapod's dial all the way clockwise, to "RC" thus putting it in Bluetooth mode. Turn the hexapod on and wait a few seconds for it to completely boot. Try to control the robot! Try hitting each of the top three rows of 4x4 matrix buttons (W, F, D) one by one, and test to make sure every mode functions. If most modes work but a couple do not, you may have swapped some wires coming off the matrix.

* '''STEP 8: Decorate''' If desired, use a marker to darken the Vorpal "V" symbol, the W, F, D, R markings, the 0 and 1 switch markings, and the record/play symbols under the 4x4 button matrix. This will make them more visible as well as making the gamepad look nicer. We like using oil based paint markers. For dark colored plastics, use a white oil paint marker, for light colored plastics use black, blue, or red to contrast with the plastic color.

'''STEP 9: Warning Label''' There were two a self-stick choking hazard warning labels in the hexapod parts bag. You used one for the robot. Peel the backing off the other and place it on the bottom of the gamepad, being sure not to interfere with the battery drawer.

= Trimming the Servos =
When you assembled the servo horns onto the servos, you probably were not able to get them all to come out exactly at a 90 degree angle. That's not your fault: the servo horns only have 22 possible positions in which they can be installed, so at best you can come within plus or minus 8 degrees of perfection.

Now that you have the gamepad working, you can make fine adjustments to the servo positions using "Trim Mode". In this special gamepad mode, you can adjust all the servos. These adjustments are saved in the robot's EEPROM, which is memory on the Nano that retains data even when powered off. So, you only need to trim once.

Complete instructions on how to use trim mode are in the wiki page: [[Vorpal The Hexapod Trim Mode Guide]].

NOTE: although this step is optional, it is recommended because your robot will walk straighter and all the servos will share equally in lifting the robot's weight, which will make them last longer.

=Assembling Game Accessories and Nameplates=
Most of the accessory pieces require no assembly, or just require press fitting magnets into round holes or attaching self-stick velcro.

When inserting magnets, the rule is: anything that attaches to the robot via the accessory port screws should have the dimpled side of the magnet ''showing'', and anything that is supposed to attach to the robot or a screwed-on accessory should have the dimple side ''down, not showing''.

Based on this rule, the dimpled side of the magnet should '''not''' show for these items:
* Flag
* Joust Rider
* Name plate

And the dimple ''should'' be showing for these items:
* Capture the Flag Arm
* Joust Lance

==Assembling Sensors==
The light sensor and ultrasonic rangefinder sensor can be assembled with two screws each. The sensor module is sandwiched in between two plastic pieces. These screws are in the Deluxe Parts Bag. The screws will self-thread into the plastic. Do not overtighten or you will strip the plastic and the screws won't hold. When the screw head is all the way down, stop turning.

The ultrasonic rangefinder sensor attaches to the accessory port screws.

The light sensor wedges into one of the slotted holes in the cap.
==Electrical Connections: Robot==

NOTE: If you have a QuickBuild version of our kit, this information is for reference only. All the connections are already made in QuickBuild kits. This information might still be useful if you are an advanced user who may want to add new electrical components or modify the system.

===NOTES ON JUMPER WIRES===

This section is for self-source builders and Bare Bones Kit builders. Quickbuild kits are pre-wired and electrical systems are fully tested, so you can skip this section if you have a Quickbuild kit.

====Wire Lengths====
There are two different lengths of female-female Dupont jumper wires used to make most connections. The longer ones (20cm) are only used for the Hexapod's accessory port connections. The shorter ones are used for all the connections on the Gamepad and all the connections on the Hexapod between the Arduino Nano, Servo controller and Bluetooth module.

====Wire Color Conventions====

Please follow these conventions when selecting wire colors:
* For +5V, Vin, and similar positive voltage connections, use either RED or ORANGE.
* For GND and other negative electrical connections, use BLACK or BROWN.
* For the connectors that sit at the mouth of the accessory port (used for optional sensors) colors are suggested below in the instructions. By following these suggestions you will make your life easier when connecting sensors!
* For all other connections, you can use any color you want, it's arbitrary.

====If Jumper Wires Are Too Loose====
Sometimes you will find a wire whose connector does not grip the pin well enough. It might fall off very easily or just by gravity alone. If that happens, you have a few options:
* There are extra wires in your kit. If you find a wire that's too loose, just use a different wire.
* Using the hex key, you can put the jumper housing on a flat surface then press on the metal showing through the plastic connector, which will tighten up the jumper wire's grip. Don't go too overboard on pressing though or you might make it too hard to insert.
* Alternatively, you could use electrical tape after inserting all the wires on a module (such as the Nano) to effectively attach together all the little plastic female connector housings. In that way, the connectors that do grip will help hold in the ones that are too loose. Some people also like using hot glue for this purpose. (Personally, I don't like using hot glue, as it makes it harder to change connections if you hooked something up incorrectly.)

===NANO PIN CONNECTIONS===
NOTE: If you are using our Quickbuild kit, this information is for reference only. Quickbuild kit wiring is already completed and tested.

[[File:Hexapod-Nano-Diagram.JPG|thumb|600px|right|Diagram of Nano connections for the Hexapod. Jumpers marked AP are routed to the Accessory Port for use with add-ons like sensors. Click for larger image.]]
* ''Digital IO Pins:''
** D0, D1 are reserved because they are used for uploading programs to the robot, so nothing will be connected there.
** D2 Bluetooth Module Rx
** D3 Bluetooth Module Tx
** D4 Buzzer Signal (white wire)
** D5, D6 NO CONNECTION. These pins are reserved for future expansion.
** D7 20cm GREEN Dupont connector routed to accessory port, used for Ultrasonic Rangefinder TRIG
** D8 20cm BLUE Dupont connector routed to accessory port, used for Ultrasonic Rangefinder ECHO
** D9 No connection. This pin is reserved for future expansion.
** D10 through D13 are reserved for the optional CMUCAM5 (Pixie) sensor accessory.

* ''Analog Pins:''
** A0 Potentiometer signal (white wire)
** A1 Potentiometer Power (red wire)
** A2 Potentiometer Ground (black wire)
** A3 20cm YELLOW Dupont connector routed to the accessory port, for the optional light sensor or other analog sensors.
** A4 Servo Controller SDA
** A5 Servo Controller SCL
** A6 20cm PURPLE Dupont connector, routed to the accessory port, for any analog sensor you wish to optionally add later.
** A7 No connection, reserved for future use.

* ''Power Pins:''
** VIN pin on Nano connects to Battery positive (the red Dupont connector coming off near the switch on the wiring module)
** GND pin on Nano connects to Battery negative (the black Dupont connector coming off the battery black wire)
** Second GND pin on Nano (there are two GND pins on the Nano) connects to the GND pin on the HC05 module
** +5V on Nano connects to HC05 +5V Pin

IMPORTANT NOTE: The red Dupont connector coming off the switch/battery assembly must go to VIN and never +5V, because the battery voltage is much higher than +5 volts. You will more or less instantly destroy your Nano if you put unregulated battery power directly into the +5V pin. The VIN pin has its own voltage regulator. The +5V pin on the Nano will be used to provide regulated power to the Bluetooth module.

=== Bluetooth Module Power ===
* +5V on HC05 connects to Nano +5V pin
* GND on HC05 connects to either of the two Nano GND pins

=== Buzzer Power ===
* Connect the buzzer V+ and ground (marked "-") pins (red and black respectively) to Port 13 of the Servo Controller, matching black and red wires to black and red pins on the Servo Controller. You will be using the special three wire cable provided for this purpose. It has a three-pin connector one one side, and the other side has a two-pin connector and a one-pin connector. The one-pin connector goes to the Nano and provides the signal to drive the buzzer. The two-pin connector is plugged into Servo Controller Port 13.

=== Servo Controller ===
[[File:ServoController-Pin-Labels.JPG|thumb|600px|right|Diagram of Servo Controller pins you will use in this project. Each servo motor has a 3 wire connector. Match the brown servo wire with the black color coded pin in its servo port, match the yellow wire with the yellow pin. Click for larger image.]]
* Connect the 12 servos to port numbers corresponding to the servo marking (0 to 11). Make sure the signal wire (yellow) is oriented correctly and matches the yellow plastic header pin.
* Connect the switch/battery module regulated BEC output (a three pin Dupont connector where only two of the pins are populated, one with a red V+ wire, one with a black ground wire) to servo controller port 12 power and ground. Make sure the RED wire is going to VCC (red pin) and the BLACK wire goes to GND (black pin).
* On one short side of the Servo Controller you will find a VCC and V+ pin right next to each other. Use a shunt (small black connector that goes over two pins) to connect those together if one is not already installed. This shunt causes both the servos and the microprocessor to run at the same +5V level.
* SDA and SCL go to A4 and A5 on the Nano, respectively.
* Servo port 12 RED and BLACK pins are connected to the output of the BEC. Make sure the BEC RED wire matches with the RED pin, and the BEC BALCK wire matches with the BLACK pin.
* Servo port 13 RED and BLACK pins are connected to the passive buzzer power connector. Make sure the buzzer BLACK wire matches the BLACK pin, and the RED wire matches the RED pin.
* Servo port 14 RED pin goes to a 20cm ORANGE Dupont connector and is routed to the accessory port to provide +5V for sensors or other accessories.
* Servo port 14 BLACK pin goes to a 20cm BROWN Dupont connector and is routed to the accessory port to provide GND for sensors or other accessories.
* Servo port 15 RED terminal goes to a 20cm RED Dupont connector and is routed to the accessory port to provide +5V for sensors or other accessories.
* Servo port 15 BLACK terminal goes to 20cm BLACK Dupont connector and is routed to the accessory port to provide ground for sensors or other accessories.
* Servo port 15 signal terminal goes to 20cm WHITE Dupont connector and is routed to the accessory port to provide signal for a servo used in an optional accessory.

===Accessory Port Wire Bundle===
The 20cm wires connected to the Nano and Servo Controller provide access to digital ports, analog ports, and power for accessories such as sensors, lights, or other projects. These wires should be bundled up near their unconnected ends (a rubber band works well for keeping them all together) and routed to the large opening below the accessory port hex head screws on the chassis. When there is no accessory in use, these wires can remain tucked inside the accessory port. When needed, pull them out a few inches and connect to sensors or other electrical accessories.

=== Connecting the HC-SR04 Ultrasonic Rangefinder to the Accessory Port ===
When building the robot you routed longer jumper wires (20cm) to the accessory port. You need four of these wires to use the Ultrasonic Rangefinder:

* RED accessory port wire goes to HC-SR04 VCC
* BLACK accessory port wire goes to HC-SR04 GND
* GREEN accessor port wire goes to HC-SR04 TRIG
* BLUE accessory port wire goes to HC-SR04 ECHO

The Scratch block assumes you've used this setup.

=== Connecting the Light Sensor (or any Arduino compatible 5 volt analog sensor) ===
* RED or ORANGE accessory port wire goes to the center pin, which is usually unmarked (may also be marked +5V, Vcc or Vin) on the sensor
* BLACK or BROWN accessory port wire goes to the ground pin on the sensor, which is usually marked with a minus sign (-) or may be marked GND or G.
* YELLOW (A3) accessory port wire goes to the Signal pin on the sensor. This is often marked (S) but on some sensors may have other markings.
** You may also use PURPLE (A6) for a sensor (or a second sensor)
** The Scratch Sensor block allows you to choose A3 (YELLOW) or A6 (PURPLE) sensor ports.

=== A note on how many things can be connected through the accessory port===
We are providing two sets of power connectors at the accessory port for sensors or other accessories. RED/BLACK and ORANGE/BROWN each respectively provide +5V/GND. It's up to you what things you want to connect using these. You could have one or two sensors, you could have a sensor and some kind off motorized accessory. You could have a sensor and an LED light strip, etc.

Nothing is stopping you from creating a Y connector to make additional power connections, except that there is a limit of 3 amps of current that you can pull from the battery/BEC system. The robot itself needs up to 2.5 amps during fast motions. But many sensors can operate on just a few milliamps. Adding a motorized accessory is where you would need to be careful about how much current you're pulling from the system. If you pull too much current, typically the BEC will overheat and go into thermal protection mode, which will shut down all the motors until you reboot the robot. It is possible to use a mini servo under moderate load for a motorized accessory, but a full sized servo under heavy load might be too much. Use caution when designing your own accessories, especially if they are going to use more than a few hundred milliamps of current.

=== Robot Screw Sizes ===
* Servo horn screws: 12 x M2.5 by 8mm long
* Switch assembly: 2 x #6-32 by 1/2" long

==Electrical Connectons: Gamepad==
NOTE: If you have a QuickBuild version of our kit, this information is for reference only. All the connections are already made in QuickBuild kits. This information might still be useful if you are an advanced user who may want to add new electrical components or modify the system.

=== GAMEPAD NANO PIN CONNECTIONS ===
[[File:Gamepad-Nano-Diagram-v3.JPG|thumb|600px|right|Diagram of Nano connections for the Gamepad. Click for larger image.]]
* D2 through D9 are connected to the button matrix pins.Looking from the top of the button matrix module, the rightmost button matrix pin (labeled 1) goes to D9, second to right (labeled 2) to D8, etc.
* D10 to SD card CS (may be labelled SS on some SD card readers)
* D11 to SD card MOSI
* D12 to SD card MISO
* D13 to SD card SCK (may be labelled SCL on some SD card readers)

* A0 Unused
* A1 Dpad OUT (white wire)
* A2 Dpad VCC (red wire)
* A3 Dpad GND (black wire)
* A4 HC05 Bluetooth Module Rx
* A5 HC05 Bluetooth Module Tx
* A6, A7 Unused

* VIN battery/switch positive (red wire)
* GND Either ground on the Nano goes to the battery/switch negative (black wire)
* ICSP pin 4 (see diagram): SD card reader GND. Note: Quickbuild kits do not use this, there's an extra GND wire soldered into the circuit for the SD card reader.
* ICSP pin 6 (see diagram): SD card reader VCC. Note: Quickbuild kits do not use this, there's an extra +5V wire soldered into the circuit for the SD card reader.
* Nano +5V pin goes to HC05 +5V pin
* Nano GND pin (there are two, you can use either one) goes to HCO5 GND pin

=== GAMEPAD: Screw Sizes ===

* Gamepad Cover, 4 x #6-32 by 1/2" long
* For kits prior to October 2019: switch adapter assembly, 2 x #6-32 by 1/2" long

{{Vorpal Quick Links}}

Gidget The Gigapod Assembly Instructions

2021-08-02T20:07:30Z

Vorpalwiki: /* STEP 13: Insert Servo Screws */

==LIMITED AVAILABILITY==

Our kits for this project are special order at this time. Allow two weeks for us to ship. Because the parts are relatively heavy, shipping to areas outside the USA is expensive. For makers outside the USA, you may want to try to acquire the parts locally. But beware of subsitutions! Walking robots have very precise requirements and any substitutions of parts may cause the project not to function as expected.

Warning: The 3D printed parts for this project consume a lot of plastic and the print (on our own printers) is over 200 hours for all the parts. (It's not 200 hours straight, it's multiple print jobs each running 6 to 16 hours.) You shouldn't attempt this unless you're prepared for long print times and your printer is well tuned to make failures rare.

NEW: our Megapod and Gigapod kits are now standard with the "Quickbuild" electrical system. This cuts over an hour off the build time.

==Gidget The Gigapod Construction==
[[File:Giga-Mega-Hexa-Stacked.jpg|right|thumb|Gigapod, Megapod, Hexapod relative sizes]]
Gidget The Gigapod is a very large, 3d printed, hexapod robot. This page gives complete instructions for building this project. If you are new to 3d printing, you probably don't want to start with this one, though. Please consider our smaller [[Vorpal The Hexapod]] project instead.
==BILL OF MATERIALS (BOM) FOR GIDGET THE GIGAPOD==
===Notes on Sourcing Parts Yourself===
* These instructions assume you have purchased a kit from us (kits are currently a special order item). If you are sourcing your own parts, please be aware of the following additional information:
**If you are sourcing your own parts, you need to build the power distribution connector assembly. This is identical to the power distribution system for [[Max The Megapod]]. For diagrams see [[Max The Megapod Battery/Switch Construction]] except that it uses an XT60 connector instead of Tamaya for the large battery, and it uses a 30 amp fuse instead of a 15 amp fuse. This will take about 2 hours of soldering and labelling work.
**Also see important information on that page if you are sourcing your own BEC.
**If you are sourcing your own Bluetooth modules, please be aware that you will need to configure them to auto-pair and to have a UART speed of 38400 BAUD. Every module brand's firmware is a bit different so it's not possible for us to give you universal instructions on how to program them. We assume that if you source your own parts you are familiar with how to configure Bluetooth modules using AT-commands. (You can find tutorials online or videos on youtube, but like we said, different modules may not exactly match instructions you will find so be prepared to fiddle around a bit). Please do not ask our customer support for help on this topic. We sell pre-configured modules that auto-pair on boot for a very reasonable price.
**If you are sourcing your own Arduino Nano modules, you will need to flash the robot and gamepad code on them. You can find the latest stable release of code at the [https://tinyurl.com/VORPALFILES Vorpal Hexapod Public Dropbox folder]. The source code tree is posted in our github repository, but the top of that tree may not be stable. Note: there is currently no difference in software between the large and small versions of the hexapod other than a single #define called HEXSIZE. For the gigapod, this should be set to 2.
* Please be very careful about substitutions. You might think you can substitute cheaper parts for the ones specified here. Don't bet on it. Walking robots are extremely difficult to design, and we've chosen each part for a good reason. For example, if you try to substitute cheaper servos you are very likely to find that they don't provide enough torque for the robot to stand up, or they burn out within minutes due to being over-stressed. If you substitute a different battery voltage, you'll either fry the servos or they won't have enough torque. It took 1,000 hours of work to design the smaller hexapod on which this one is based, then another 500 hours of redesign, testing, and tuning to get the big version working well. If you want to try substitutions, okay, but please don't expect it to work without many hours of adjustments and testing.
* Full kits of parts as well as individual parts are available on [http://store.vorpalrobotics.com The Vorpal Robotics Store]. If you are new to Arduino and robotics we strongly recommend you purchase a kit instead of trying to self-source parts (and truthfully, if you're not experienced with this kind of project you really should build the smaller [[Vorpal The Hexapod]] kit first. The Gigapod kit is a special order item and may not ship for up to 2 full weeks after ordering (plus shipping time which is typically a few days for USA orders and 2 to 4 weeks for non-USA orders).
* Our kits cut 4 to 5 hours off the build time, bringing it to typically 2 to 3 or so hours. The kits have all soldering done, programs are already loaded on the Nanos, Bluetooth modules are properly configured, most electrical wiring already connected properly and tested in our workshop. And, you know you have all the right parts to work together. About half the people who self-source parts end up buying parts that are incorrect or are so cheap that they will quickly fail (and they end up spending more money and far more time than if they had simply bought a kit to start with!)

=== ROBOT BILL OF MATERIALS (BOM) ===
[[File:Choking-Hazard-Image.jpg|right|350px]]
[[File:PinchPoint-Warning.JPG|right|350px]]

* ''Electronics:''
** Passive Piezo Buzzer module and 3 wire cable (see image) [[File:Passive-Piezo-Buzzer-Module.jpg|right|thumb|Passive Piezo Buzzer Module]]
** Arduino Nano, 5V, 16 mHz, ATMEGA328 or similar (marked RM in our kit to indicate it is pre-loaded with Gigapod robot software)
** Rotary potentiometer, 10K Ohms, 6mm shaft diameter, with 3 wires pre-soldered. Also, matching dial cap and nut. If you are self-sourcing see our instructions: [[Max The Megapod Battery/Switch Construction]]
** 1 x HC05 BlueTooth Module with F-F jumper wires for making connections (our kit electronics are pre-wired for you)
** 1 x Servo Controller module (Adafruit 16-channel 12-bit I2C PWM/Servo driver or Adafruit clone) with F-F jumper wires for making connections, plus 1 two-pin shunt tying V+ to VCC
** 12 x DS5160 SSG 180 degree, 60 kg-cm torque servo motors with metal servo horns. Be sure you order the 180 degree version, these servos also come in a 270 degree version.
** 1 x Power distribution wiring harness with DPST on/off switch, Fuse, XT60 battery connector, 3A 5V BEC, and servo extension connectors. If you are self-sourcing see our wiring instructions: [[Max The Megapod Battery/Switch Construction|Circuit Diagrams]]. (The battery/switch circuit for the Gigapod is identical to that of the Megapod except it uses an XT60 connector for the large battery and it uses a 30 amp fuse instead of a 15 amp fuse.)
* ''3D Printed Parts:''
** NOTE: All STL files are available from our [[http://tinyurl.com/VORPALFILES Vorpal Public Files Dropbox]] under the STL sub-folder.
** 6 Robot Base Parts and bottom plate to hold the parts together.
** 4 Cap parts which screw together to form the cap of the robot.
** 6 x Legs
** 6 x Boots that will be assembled with wheels.
** 6 x Boot Bushings, cap side, to hold boots onto main legs (the screw goes in this side)
** 6 x Boot Bushings, nut side, to hold boots onto main legs (this side has a hex cutout to hold a hex nut).
** 6 x TPU wheels that are installed in the Boot
** 12 x Wheel bushings that sandwich the wheel, acting as spacers
** 6 x TPU Shoes to provide better traction. These should be printed in TPU or other flexible plastics so they absorb some impact during walking. They should only be used on surfaces with low friction. They should be removed if walking on asphalt or other rough surfaces.
** 12 x Servo Stops. These parts hold the servos in their compartments both in the base and the legs.
** 12 x Servo Bearing Pegs. These insert into the servo compartments and provide a secure place for the bearings to sit.
** 12 x Leg Hinge halves with Leg Hinge Rings. The rings stop layer separation issues under stress.
** 1 x Electronics Caddy to hold Arduino Nano
** 1 x Electronics Caddy to hold the Servo Driver
** 2 x Eye/glasses Decoration
**Gamepad Parts: Base, Button-holder, Top, drawer, exactly the same gamepad as our smaller hexapods use.
* ''Screws and Fasteners''
** 12 x Nylon bolts 1/4-20 x 2" long. These can be partially threaded. Note that it is important for these to be made of nylon for weight savings. These are used to secure servos in place using the servo stopper part.
** 12 x M3x20mm button head screws (with matching flat washers and external tooth washers) to secure servo arms to servo through the screw hole in the hinge.
** 6 x #6-32 x 1.75" long cap screws plus nuts to attach boots onto the end of the leg
** 6 x #6-32 x 1" long cap screws plus nuts to provide axles for the boot wheels.
** 6 x 1/4-20 x 1.25" long cap screw plus nylox locking nuts for holding the BASE parts together
** 6 x 1/4-20 x 3/4" long cap screw plus nylox locking nuts for holding the BOTTOM onto the BASE assembly
** 6 x #6-32 cap screws plus nylox locking nuts for holding the CAP and CAP TOPPER parts together
** 6 x #6-32 cap screws plus nylox locking nuts for holding the LEG HINGES together. Note that the smaller versions of the robot depend on a snap-together system to hold the hinges together, but the larger Gigapod requires a screw through the center hole to ensure the hinges remain together.
** If you are self-sourcing and building your own electrical system, you will also need 10 x #6-32 x 1/2" screws to hold the power distribution plastic covers together. If you buy our kit, these are already installed on the wiring harness.
** 8 x 1 inch diameter hook-and-loop self stick circles to attach of eyes and other decorations
* ''Miscellaneous Mechanical Parts:''
** 12 x 6202ZZ Double Metal Seal Bearings 15x35x11mm for leg hinges
* ''Tools Required (Not included in kit)''
** Hex drivers for the various sized bolts and screws.
** Needle nose pliers are useful for holding the nuts while assembling BASE and CAP parts.
** 3 x Pinch Point Stickers. Place these around the robot Base to warn onlookers not to touch the robot. Some kinds of plastic may not stick well to the adhesive, you may need to secure with hot glue or superglue or similar.
* ''Batteries and Chargers''
** The Gigapod uses a 4200 mAH (a little more is okay but don't go too high due to weight considerations) 7-cell NIMH battery (8.4 Volts) with male XT60 connector and compatible charger, such as: [https://www.batteryspace.com/nimhbatterypack84v4200mahhumpbatterypacksforrctraxxasandlosietc.aspx BatterySpace 42000 mAH 8.4 V NIMH] (We use that one for demos with the 14 gauge wire option, and we solder on an XT60 male connector in-house. You get about 30 minutes of run time with this battery.)
**The Gigapod also requires one 9v battery, we recommend NIMH or LI-ON rechargeable with compatible charger.
** The gamepad takes any kind of standard 9v rectangular batter, either rechargeable or disposable work fine. These are commonly available from many sources. We recommend rechargeable NIMH or LI-ON 9v batteries with appropriate compatible charger.
** Note that we do not provide batteries or chargers with our kits due to licenses required to ship batteries.
NOTE ON BATTERY SAFETY: Never leave batteries in the Gigapod or gamepad after use. If either one gets turned on accidentally, overdraining the battery may damage or destroy it. As soon as the Gigapod has trouble moving or sags under its own weight, immediately stop and replace with fresh batteries. When done using it, disconnect all batteries. Never charge LI-ON batteries unattended even with a smart charger (all electronic equipment will eventually fail to work properly, and leaving LI-ON batteries in a charger unattended is asking for trouble in the long run).

=== GAMEPAD BOM AND ASSEMBLY ===
The gamepad for Gidget the Gigapod is identical to the gamepad for Vorpal The Hexapod. See instructions for the gamepad here: [[Vorpal_The_Hexapod_Building_Instructions#Building_the_Gamepadd|Vorpal The Hexapod Gamepad Assembly instructions]]

==Printing the Plastic Parts==

This section assumes you have basic familiarity with 3D printing and 3D printing terminology. If not, you might want to reference online materials such as youtube videos or information from your 3D printer manufacturer before attempting this project.

Please note: it takes over 200 hours to print this project. This is not a project for the faint of heart, or for people who are not experienced in 3d printing and have not tuned and maintained their printers. If you are a beginner at 3d printing, we strongly recommend that you start with our smaller [[Vorpal the Hexapod]] project. It's a 16 hour print, requires a lot less bridging, and less than a tenth as much practice.

===OBTAINING THE STL FILES===
We have posted the STL files to [http://www.thingiverse.com Thingiverse]. Search for "Gidget the Gigapod" and they should pop right up.

Please help us by rating the Gidget the Gigapod project (or clicking on the LIKE button, COLLECT button, etc.)!

Please post your builds to places like Thingiverse, pictures to FaceBook, Instagram, etc., and videos of your robot to YouTube! This will help us grow and continue having the resources creating cool new projects for our community.

===MINIMUM PRINTER REQUIREMENTS===
*The bed size should be at least 275mm cube (about 11 inches cube). The largest parts are the six Base and the 3 Cap parts in the x and y directions, and in the Z direction the Leg is largest, so these are the limiting factor on bed size.
* For almost all parts, we recommend PLA PRO plastic (or similiar enhanced PLA plastics that may go under other names like PLA+). These are large parts and so PLA is preferred due it being resistant to warping.
* The boots part is best made of TPU plastic, or similar flexible plastics, to reduce the impact of walking on floors.
===AMOUNT OF PLASTIC FILAMENT===
* About 6 to 7 kg of PLA plastic are needed to print the entire robot and gamepad, assuming no print failures.
* About 200 grams of TPU (or similar flexible plastic) are needed to print the wheels. It is possible to print the wheels out of harder plastics but in that case they might scratch wooden floors, so we suggest TPU or some other flexible, soft plastic.
* The amount of plastic used does depend on plastic type and exact print settings though, so your mileage may vary.

===RECOMMENDED PLASTICS===
*ABS, PETG, and PLA all work well. However, because there are some very large parts, ABS may cause you some warping issues if you don't have a heated bed, enclosure, and a printer tuned well for large parts. PLA is generally easier and has fewer issues with corners peeling off the print bed.
*We use eSun PLA PRO for this project and for us it works very well. PLA PRO is a little more flexible and stronger than typical PLA. We have no problems with warping even on the largest parts.
*For the boots, we used Sainsmart TPU and it works very well. Other flexible plastics would probably also be fine.
*This project requires less flexibility than the smaller Vorpal The Hexapod project, so ABS is not at all required for this project.
===PRINTING TIPS===
This project has been finely tuned to make it easy to 3D print. No additional supports are required for any of the parts (there is a support built into the models for the CAP parts and there are tiny supports built into the hinge parts). In some cases you may want to use brims or rafts to help parts adhere to the print surface. These are large, long prints so using a brim for a little added safety is probably prudent.

There is some significant bridging with some spans up to 45mm (1.8"). It is important to tune your printer and make sure it can handle the bridging before attempting the large parts. A little sagging is ok and a drip or two can be easily removed, but you need decent ability to bridge. There are bridge testing and calibration models posted on sites like Thingiverse that may help you tune your printer before trying the big parts. There are numerous "3d printing tips" type postings on the internet that make suggestions for how to tune for features like bridging.

====PRINT SETTINGS====
We print using the following settings on a Lulzbot TAZ 6 with 0.5mm nozzle:
* 0.4 layer thickness (or whatever layer thickness is the largest that will work on your printer)
* 2mm walls (i.e. four perimeters for a 0.5mm nozzle)
* 1.6 mm top and bottom (i.e. four layers at 0.4mm layer height)
* 25% infill
* You can print with thinner layers if your printer does not support 0.4mm layers or if you want a more refined look, it will just take longer. If you have a large nozzle (0.8mm or more) you should be able to go with bigger layers and save a lot of print time. Please report your findings to us at support@vorpalrobotics.com so we can advise future Makers of this project.

====POST PRINT====
Other than removing brims/rafts, cap and hinge built in supports, and the occasional drip, there is not any special post-processing required after printing. Some of the big bridges might seem a little saggy but generally speaking there's enough tolerance that this won't cause an issue. The biggest bridges are mostly hidden inside the robot so they won't affect cosmetics.

====PRO TIPS====
*Do routine maintenance on your printer before printing the big parts: lubricate rods and lead screws, check bed leveling, replace nozzle if worn, do a calibration print, clean your print surface, etc. A few minutes of preparation will help you nail these prints and make a project you can be very proud of!
*Print the large parts (Base, Cap) at the ''start'' of new spools. The last thing you want is to run out of filament 95% of the way through a big part.
*Print the smallest parts (servo stops, hinge rings, Leg pegs, gamepad drawer) near the end of a spool.
*If you have a large format printer, it is tempting to kick off several large parts at once and let it run overnight. We would recommend against that--the chances of killing an entire spool of filament due to an overnight power hit or other failure is just not worth it. Take your time, do the big parts one by one. One or two during the day, one overnight. It will all get done soon enough. An extra few days won't matter in the long run.

== Building the Robot ==

You will need the following tools:
*Included in the kit:
** 2mm hex key. A 5/64 inch hex key will also work. This is in the Gigapod Parts bag.
** 7/64 hex key at least 6" long (150mm). It needs to be long enough to reach screws through access holes in the Base and Cap. This is in the Gigapod Parts Bag.
*Not included in the kit:
** Optional: A marker that can write on dark plastic and still be seen, such as Sharpie Metallic or Sharpie Oil markers (white and yellow work great on dark colored plastic, black or blue work well on light colored plastic). This can be used to make raised lettering on the robot and gamepad more visible.
** Optional: Needle nose pliers can be helpful for holding nuts in place while tightening screws.
** Optional: Slip-joint pliers can be helpful for forcing the skate bearings into their press-fit locations on the Leg Hinges

===IMPORTANT WARNING: POWERFUL SERVOS MAY INJURE YOU===
The motors on Gidget the Gigapod are very powerful compared to the smaller Vorpal the Hexapod (or even Max the Megapod) projects. It is possible for the leg motions to pinch fingers or even possibly break fingers or cause other injuries, possibly severe. When powering on the Gigapod you must keep fingers clear of places where the legs/hips can come together. You should mount the included "Pinch Point" stickers around the Base of the robot to warn others. During public demonstrations, keep adults and especially children away from the robot when it's operating. Little kids will definitely try to touch the robot and could be injured, keep them at a safe distance. In case of electrical issues the legs may move unexpectedly. Turning the power off will release the motors. Never carry the Gigapod when it's powered on. For safety, I disconnect the battery when transporting, just to prevent the possibility that the power switch will get hit accidentally.

If the robot is moving in an out of control manner, use a pencil, book, or rod to hit the power switch from a safe distance. The switch is large and easy to turn off.

You must at all times take standard precautions that are typical with large robotic projects.

If you are building your own electrical system please do not skimp by skipping adding the fuse to the circuit. This project may draw significant amperage and fuse protection is required.

===Step by Step Instructions===
PLEASE NOTE: These instructions are currently in draft state, and I've used diagrams from Max the Megapod here temporarily. The construction is very similar, although you will note some discrepancies such as the BASE for the Megapod comes in 3 parts while in the Gigapod it comes in 6 parts. Still, the construction is analogous. I'll be replacing diagrams for the parts that are not the same first.

====STEP 1: Build the BASE====
* STEP 1A: Take the six outer parts of the base (STL files: Base-1, Base-2, ... Base-6) and arrange them to form the "bowl" of the base. Make sure the servo numbers are in the right order as you move clockwise around the six parts! It's possible to assemble them in the wrong order if you don't check.
* STEP 1B: There are matching screw holes positioned on little rectangular outcroppings on the inside of the top ring, these require screws to bind the three parts together. Use six 1/4-20 by 1.25 inch socket head screws, toothed lock washers, and nuts to secure them. There is an access hole in the rim of the robot to allow the hex key to turn the screw. You may need to hold the nut in place using needle-nose pliers. Repeat for all six sections.
<gallery mode=packed heights=250>
File:Base-Exploded-View.JPG|Line up the six main pieces of the base, ensuring the servo numbers are in order.
File:Access-Hole-In-Base.jpg|Small access holes are strategically placed around the base so the hex key can turn the screws to secure the three base pieces.
File:Securing-Base-Sections.jpg|Use the access hole in the Base parts to secure screws that bind the three base parts together.
File:Megapod-Foam-Squares.jpg|Peel the backing off the foam squares that came with the kit and attach them to the bottom of the base. Stack them on top of each other.
</gallery>
* STEP 1C: Take the Base Bottom part and place it inside the base. There is a nub in one place that will only allow it to be inserted in one orientation. Use six 1/4-20 by 3/4 inch screws with nuts and lock washers in the outer ring of holes in the bottom to secure it to the base. The head of the screw should be on the outside of the robot and nuts should secure the screws on the inside.
* STEP 1D: Take the foam squares that came in your kit and stick them on the bottom of the robot, reasonably centered. These foam pads will reduce the shock and stress on the robot when it goes down to the floor on certain dance moves. Without these pads, the robot leg servos and body structure may undergo too much stress.

====STEP 2: Install the electrical system in the base====
* STEP 2A: Take the potentiometer and remove its dial cap, then unscrew the nut and set these items aside for now (don't lose them). Push the potentiometer shaft from the inside of the chassis into the hole that is surrounded by the markings "STOP", "TST", etc. The wires coming out of the potentiometer should be pointing down. The little metal nub sticking out of the potentiometer should match with a tiny rectangular hole that is near the marking "TST". Put the retaining nut on the potentiometer, hand tighten first and then give it just another half turn or so with pliers if desired. Turn the knob all the way counter-clockwise, then insert the knob so it points to the letter "O" in the word "STOP".
* STEP 2B: Take the large DPST on/off switch (which is attached to the battery holder and power distribution assembly) and thread the switch wires from the inside through the gap at the bottom of the switch hole (see picture). Carefully push the wires one by one through the slot below the switch hole. Once all the wires are through, push the switch into the switch hole. It should be oriented with the "1" to the right. Press carefully into the hole, it should snap firmly in place.
** If the fit is too tight to get the switch in place, lightly sanding or filing the hole to make it a tiny bit larger should work.
<gallery mode=packed heights=200>
File:Switch-Insert-1.jpg|Thread the switch and its wires through the Base, there is an opening under the switch hole.
File:Switch-Insert-2.jpg|Bring the wires up through the small gap below the switch hole. Be careful with the large wires, they require some pressure or some flexing of the plastic to get through.
File:Switch-Insert-3.jpg|All the wires are now coming through the switch hole.
File:Switch-Insert-4.jpg|Press the switch into the hole, it should snap into place. The "1" should be to the right.
</gallery>

====STEP 3: Insert servos in the chassis====
* Next, insert the servo into the chassis as shown in the diagrams. As you insert the servo into the chassis, slowly press it straight into place until it fully seats. Use a servo stopper and one 1/4-20 by 2 inch nylon hex bolts to secure the servos in place. The nylon bolts should retain in the holes even though there are no threads and no nut used. If you find them working themselves loose, you could wrap a bit of electrical tape around the end of the screw to make the fit tighter.
<gallery mode=packed heights=250>
File:Servo-in-Base-2.jpg|Insert each servo with the wire coming out away from the robot as shown here. Press in completely.
File:Servo-in-Base-3.jpg|Insert a servo stopper (shown in red) and secure with nylong bolt. Thread the wire into the body of the robot through the hole as shown.
</gallery>

====STEP 4: Build the Legs====
=====STEP 4A: Assemble Boot and Wheel=====
Because of the large size of the Gigapod, the leg is assembled using several parts (whereas it is a single part with the smaller hexapod designs). The extra part that is attached at the tip of the main leg piece is called the boot. Each boot is tipped by a TPU wheel. This reduces friction when the robot needs to stand, but provides traction when legs move laterally to walk. The TPU wheel is secured by a #6-32 x 1 inch screw, lock washer, and nut as shown in the diagram below. The entire boot/wheel assembly is attached to the main leg using two bushings, one of which has a hex-shaped indentation to retain a #6-32 nut.
<gallery mode=packed heights=350>
File:Gigapod-Leg-Assembly-Wheel-Boot.PNG|Parts for Boot and Wheel. The boot goes over the main leg and is secured with two leg bushings and a #6-32 1.75" screw, nut, and lock washer. The wheel is attached between two wheel bushings and is secured with a #6-32 x 1" screw, lock washer, and nut.
File:Gigapod-Leg-Assembly-Bearing-Peg.PNG|Insert Bearing Peg (red). The servo will lock it in place, there are no screws required.
</gallery>

=====STEP 4B: Insert Servos in Legs=====
The technique is very similar to inserting the servo into the chassis.
*Insert the servo straight into the leg socket so that the wire is coming out of the servo facing away from the plastic leg and the face of the servo with the shaft and servo horn goes into the open faced side of the leg, as shown in the diagram.
*Secure the servo in place with a servo stopper and one 2 inch nylong bolt as you did with the hip servos in the base.
*The servos in the legs are called the "knee" servos. Each leg has a higher number on it, this is the knee number, they run from 6 to 11. Again, write this number on the black connector at the end of the servo wire. PRO TIP: For 6 and 9, underline the number so you don't read them upside down!
*Cut a 12 inch length of braided wire covering. Seal the threads at the end using a lighter for a couple seconds to melt them. Be careful not to set on fire. Thread the knee servo wires through the braided wire covering. This will help protect the servo wires, and also makes the robot look better. You may need to use electrical tape or a zip tie to secure the end of the braided covering to the end of the servo wire where it comes out of the servo.
<gallery mode=packed heights=200>
File:Servo-Insert-Leg-v2.png|Insert Servos in Legs
File:Servo-Leg-Inserted-v2.png|Push until fully seated
File:Servo-Stopper-In-Leg.jpg|Use the servo stopper and two screws to lock the servo in place
</gallery>

*Thread each leg servo wire (with braided covering) into the bottom wire guide slot on the chassis. Each leg servo should be matched with a hip servo plus 6. The legs are marked with the hip number near the top and the knee number below that. For example, the leg marked 6 should be threaded through the wire guide on hip servo 0, leg 7 goes with hip 1, leg 8 goes with hip 2, etc. Add 6 to the hip number to get the leg number.

====STEP 5: Plug in the Servos====
Thread the servo wires into the chassis using the routing holes, as you did with the hip servos. The power distribution harness has marked servo extension sockets for each servo. Each hip servo is marked on the BASE showing its number. the knee servo for each hip is numbered six higher than its corresponding hip. For example, hip servo number 3 will be attached to knee servo number 9, because 3+6=9.

When plugging the servos in, make sure you match the light yellow servo wire to the white servo extension wire, and the dark brown servo wire should match with the black servo extension wire.

====STEP 6: Make Robot Electrical Connections====

If you are self-sourcing, use the diagram below in the electrical section to make the rest of the robot's electrical connections. You'll be using the Robot Arduino Nano (marked "R"), the Servo Driver, Bluetooth Module marked "S", the buzzer, and a bunch of jumper wires. Make sure you use the longer jumper wires for the SDA and SCL connections between the Nano and the Servo Driver.
If you bought a kit from us, all connections are already made, other than plugging the servos into the marked servo extension connectors.

====STEP 7: Assemble the leg hinges====
[[File:Servo-Bracket-Alignment-v1.png|thumb|350px|right|Align the leg hinges as shown here. The bumps (see arrows) should both be near each other when properly aligned. Hold one in each hand with the ends of the U shape between thumb and forefinger.]]
Each leg hinge is composed of two identical U-shaped parts. Take one in each hand and align the two so that the bump (shown in the diagram at the right) are both near each other. Turn one 90 degrees with respect to the other.
*Gently squeeze each piece between thumb and forefinger, which causes the little jaws in the center to open up slightly. Work the two halves together. Keep squeezing harder until the ends slide into place.
*If you used PLA and are finding it hard to bend, briefly soaking the pieces in very hot tap water has been reported to make it easier. Take care not to scald yourself, the water does not have to be boiling, just hot from the tap. You only need to dip the ends that will lock over each other, not the parts you will squeeze. Use caution.
*At this stage, you may notice that the parts are loosely clamped on each other (this depends on plastic used and whether your printer over- or under-extrudes). Don't worry! When you place the leg hinges over a servo, the servo will spread it apart and they will lock together more tightly.
* Use a #6-32 1" screw and matching nut through the center hole of the two joined leg hinges to secure the hinges further. (This is necessary because the gigapod's hinges are under much more stress than in the megapod or hexapod.)
*Insert a 6202ZZ bearing into the socket on one side of the leg hinges. Pliers may be necessary to press them into place. Make sure you clean up any drips inside the recessed area for the skate bearing before attempting to insert the bearings. If you have a lot of trouble getting them in, you could heat up that part of the hinge in hot tap water to soften the plastic, or use a butane lighter (carefully! don't stop moving it) to soften the plastic before inserting the bearing.

====STEP 8: Attach Leg Hinges====
The leg hinges connect the hips to the knees. They only go on one way. If you made sure to align the bumps when assembling the leg hinges, this will result in correct orientation of all legs.
*First place the end that matches the servo horn on about halfway. Make sure the servo horn slides under the little pocket at the end of recessed area that accepts the horn.
*Very slightly bend the U shaped piece while pulling the skate bearing side over the hemispherical bump on the other side of the servo holding area. It's a little easier to do the knees (servos mounted to legs) first, followed by the hips (servos on base).
*NOTE: It will be a tight fit, but it should not be excessively difficult to push the hinge over the bearing.
*When completed, double check to make sure the servo horn went into the covered pocket at the end of its recessed area. This pocket keeps the horn from slipping out of the hinge during stressful operations.

====STEP 9: Enclose the electronics modules in their caddies====

Now things look pretty messy with all those wires hanging loose, let's clean it up by stowing the Arduino Nano, Bluetooth module and Servo Driver in their caddies. The caddies will keep them safe by making sure they can't short out against each other or touch screws, etc.
* '''STEP 9A: Insert Caddy Bars''' Insert the electronics caddy bars as shown in the diagrams below. Notice carefully how they are inserted. Don't insert them upside down, the little hump should be facing inward toward the caddy. You may need to slightly squeeze the forked section at the end to work it into the hole. Once inside, it may be difficult to remove because it will snap into place, so be sure you're putting it in the right way.
<gallery mode=packed heights=300>
File:Insert-Caddy-Bar-1.jpg|Insertion of the caddy bar into the Nano caddy. Notice the orientation, don't put the bar in upside down. The same technique is used for the Servo Driver Caddy.
</gallery>
* '''STEP 9B: Insert the Arduino Nano into its caddy''' Carefully insert the Nano as shown, making sure you don't pull out any of the wires. You may need to wiggle the caddy bar from side to side a bit so that components can slide past it during insertion. Notice that the end of the Nano that has the USB port must go in last.

<gallery mode=packed heights=250>
File:Insert-Nano-In-Caddy-1.jpg|Insert the Nano in the orientation shown.
File:Insert-Nano-In-Caddy-2.jpg|You may need to wiggle it a bit or press on the bar to work it into place.
File:Insert-Nano-In-Caddy-3.jpg|Note how the USB port is accessible through the top after full insertion.
</gallery>

* '''STEP 9C: Insert the Servo Driver into its caddy''' Carefully insert the Servo Driver as shown, making sure you don't pull out any of the wires. You may need to wiggle the caddy bar from side to side a bit so that components can slide past it during insertion. Notice that the end of the Servo controller with wires sticking out of it must go in last.

<gallery mode=packed heights=200>
File:Insert-ServoDriver-In-Caddy-1.jpg|Insert the Servo Driver in the orientation shown.
File:Insert-ServoDriver-In-Caddy-2.jpg|You may need to wiggle it a bit or press on the bar to work it into place.
File:Insert-ServoDriver-In-Caddy-3.jpg|Note that the end with the wires goes in last.
</gallery>

* '''STEP 9D: Insert the HC05 Bluetooth Module''' The diagrams here do not show the wires to make them easier to visualize. The HC05 Bluetooth module with a name beginning with "S" should be used for the robot. For example, the label will read something like "VORP S2944" (the number will differ). The one marked "M" will be used for the gamepad. Slide the HC05 into the side drawer as shown. When inserting, be careful not to pull out the wires, which will be a little tight. Work the wires into the little space provided so they stay clear of the robot's cap when it gets screwed on later.

<gallery mode=packed heights=250>
File:Insert-HC05-in-Caddy-1.jpg|Insert the HC05 into the side drawer of the Nano Caddy as shown.
File:Insert-HC05-in-Caddy-2.jpg|When fully inserted, the indicator light will still be visible through the small oval.
File:Insert-HC05-in-Caddy-3.jpg|The wires should be tucked into the little cavity near the pins of the HC05.
</gallery>

====STEP 10: Power up!====
Make sure the on/off switch is off, and the knob is turned to STOP. Attach the proper batteries (a 9v recharageable NIMH or LI-ON, and an 8.4 volt 4000 or more mAh NIMH with XT60 connector) and power on the robot using the on/off switch. You should hear a beep, a pause, then a second beep. The servos should all twitch into position. If the robot does not move at all, immediately turn the switch off and check your connections again. If some of the servos don't move then gently push them with power off to see if you can free them up. If they still won't move, try pushing them with power applied, but turn off the power within 30 seconds if they're locked up. If you can't get the servo to move it will need to be replaced.

[[File:Servo-Horn-Orientation.png|thumb|right|The servo horn should come straight out from the body at a 90 degree angle as shown here. Do not turn the servo shaft by hand until after it has moved under power!]]

====STEP 11: Insert Servo Horns====
The servo horns are all at random-ish angles right now. In this step we'll make them point in the right direction. The knee servos are not at 90 degrees when the knob is all the way counter clockwise, rather they are at a 30 degree standing angle.

We need to get them to 90 degrees so its easy to align the servo horn, and this is done by going into "Adjust Mode". Turn the knob very slightly clockwise until you hear a beep, then stop. After about one second you will see all the knee servos twitch. This is "adjust servo horn mode". All servos (knees and hips) are now at their halfway point, 90 degrees.

Now you need to take each single arm servo horn and carefully insert it on the shaft so that it is sticking straight out as shown in the figure. You will not always be able to make the horn come totally straight out. This is because there are only 22 little groves (splines) in each shaft, meaning you can in general only come within about 8 degrees of being at a perfect 90 degree angle. This amount of error is acceptable for now, just get it as close as you can. Later we'll use Trim Mode to make fine adjustments.

====STEP 12: Test Knee Positions====
Turn the knob fully counter clockwise (to STOP) and the robot will go into "stand still" mode. Place it on a level surface such as a table top. Do all of the legs touch the ground? If one or more legs don't touch the ground, you need to adjust the servo horn on the knee a little bit so it does touch. Gently pull off the servo bracket. Pull the servo horn off, and put it back on just a little bit moved so the leg would move closer to the ground. Put the servo bracket back on, and see how it looks. Do this until all legs are at least slightly touching the ground. Again, you can't necessarily be perfect due to the 8 degree increments the servo horns can be moved. But you should be able to be close enough that all legs at least slightly touch the ground.

====STEP 13: Insert Servo Screws====
Now that the legs are adjusted, you can insert the M3x20 screws (with M3 lock washers) into the servo horns to lock them in place. Note that you will NOT be using the screws that were in the little bag the servos came in, you'll be using the separate pack of screws, which are longer than the ones in the servo bag. Do not overtighten these screws, as you could possibly crack the servo brackets. Just turn the screws until you start to feel resistance, then turn a quarter turn more and stop.

====STEP 14: Test the Servos====
*'''STEP 14A: Using TST Mode'''
**To test whether every servo is working, put the robot on something that will lift its legs off the table top, but won't interfere with the legs (a small box or stack of books will work).
**Start with the knob on STOP, then slowly turn it clockwise. You'll hear one beep (Adjust mode), then a second beep (Test mode). Stop turning and the robot will go into "individual servo test mode". In this mode, every hip servo will move, one by one. When all the hips have moved, every leg will move, one by one. You should see every servo move, in order. If some don't move, check your connections. A common error is to plug a servo connector into the servo controller backwards (i.e. the brown wire is matched with the yellow pin instead of the black pin). If the servos do not move in a sensible order, that probably means you plugged a couple of servos into the wrong sockets in the electrical harness.

*'''STEP 14B: Test Using Demo Mode'''
**Ok, everything looks good, so time for a full test. Turn the knob to STOP, then put the robot on the floor, somewhere that has at least a few feet of room in each direction. (Caution: it's tempting to do this on a table top, but unless you have a huge table this is not advisable, Max will run pretty fast at some points during the demo.)
**Turn the knob to DEMO, and about one second later the robot will go through a series of movements to demonstrate some of the things it can do. The full demo only takes about 30 seconds, then repeats. Here, you are looking for the robot to, for example, be able to get back up off the floor after doing some of its dance moves.
**If the robot struggles to get off the floor, you may have a battery that is not fully charged, or there may be drips or other obstructions stopping some legs from moving fully. See the [[Vorpal Combat_Hexapod Troubleshooting Guide|Trouble Shooting Guide]] for more information about different kinds of issues that can occur. That guide was written for the small robot, but most of the things that can go wrong with the Gigapod are similar to the things that can go wrong with Vorpal The Hexapod.

====STEP 15: Store electronics and wires in the Base====
Carefully stow the caddies into the base, using any available convenient space. NOTE: Unlike the small hexapod and megapod, the Gigapod saves weight by not having any service access covers. This makes it look messier when the top is off, but the savings in weight was necessary to avoid servo stress.
<gallery mode=packed heights=250>
File:All-Electronics-Inserted-In-Base.jpg|Carefully stow the caddies into the base, being careful not to pull out any wires.
</gallery>

====STEP 16: Assemble the Cap====
*'''STEP 16A: Assemble the Four Cap Parts'''
**First assemble the three large pieces after removing the support coming out of the center. Be aware that there is a correct ordering to them, the two flaps that stick out near the bottom need to be opposite each other so the cap can slot into the Base and lock in place. Use #6-32 x 1 inch screws plus nylox locking nuts to secure the three parts together as shown. There are access holes around the rim that allow the hex key to reach the screws. Use nuts and locking washers to secure the screws.
**Secure the top of the cap onto the bottom three pieces using three 1 inch #6 socket screws and their associated nylox locking nuts.
<gallery mode=packed heights=250>
File:Cap-Exploded.JPG|Arrangement of the four Cap parts. Note that this diagram shows the support in place, this should actually be removed prior to assembly.
File:CAP-Assembly-order.JPG|Make sure the two flaps at the rim are opposite each other when ordering the three main parts.
</gallery>
* '''STEP 16B: Put Hook-and-loop on Cap''' Peel and stick on the "hook" side of a 1" piece of hook-and-loop on each flat circular decoration holder on the cap.
* '''STEP 16C: Decorate''' If desired, use a permanent marker to color the Vorpal "V" on top of the Cap. Oil markers work well. On light colors of plastic a black permanent marker will also work.
* '''STEP 16D: Put Cap on the Hexapod'''
**Screw the cap on the robot by lining up the tabs with the matching slots in the rim of the base. Turn the cap clockwise to lock it in place. IMPORTANT: Do not press down on the robot to insert the cap when the robot is under power standing on its legs! You can damage the leg motors by doing this. It is best to turn the robot off, and either support the bottom of the Base with one hand and press the Cap on with the other, or set the Base down on the table top or floor with legs out to the sides so they don't take pressure.
**If the cap is too loose and swivels while the robot moves, this can be fixed by putting a bit of tape on the cap's flaps to make them a little thicker. The tightness of the cap depends a lot on printer settings, over- or under-extrusion, etc.

====STEP 17: Warning Label====
There are self-stick choking hazard warning labels and also several pinch point warning labels in the hexapod parts bag. Peel the backing off one choking hazard lable and place it on the bottom of the robot, near the center. Retain the second label for the gamepad. The pinch point warnings should be placed around the body of the robot, above the legs, in visible positions. Depending on what kind of plastic you're using, they might or might not stick well. If they don't stick, use glue (such as cyanoacrilate "super glue" or even hot glue) to secure them. The warning labels are not optional! They are necessary for safety. The motors are powerful and can snap your fingers like a twig, or cause severe pinch injuries, sprains, or bruises.

==== Step 18: Trimming the Servos ====
When you assembled the servo horns onto the servos, you probably were not able to get them all to come out exactly at a 90 degree angle. That's not your fault: the servo horns only have 22 possible positions in which they can be installed, so at best you can come within plus or minus 8 degrees of perfection.

Now that you have the gamepad working, you can make fine adjustments to the servo positions using "Trim Mode". In this special gamepad mode, you can adjust all the servos to within a fraction of a degree. These adjustments are saved in the robot's EEPROM, which is memory on the Nano that retains data even when powered off. So, you only need to trim once.

Complete instructions on how to use trim mode are in the wiki page: [[Vorpal The Hexapod Trim Mode Guide]]. That guide was written for the smaller robot, but the instructions are identical for the Gigapod.

NOTE: although this step is optional, it is strongly recommended because your robot will walk straighter and all the servos will share equally in lifting the robot's weight, which will make them last longer.

====Step 19: Assembling Eye Decorations====
Peel and stick a piece of "loop" from the supplied hook and loop fasteners on the back of the two eye pieces. This allows you to stick the eyes on the Cap's matching "hook" areas.

NOTE: There are extra hook and loop circles included in your kit. You can create your own attachments, nameplates, etc. using these.

==Electrical Connections: Robot==
Please note that our Gigapod kit comes prewired using our QuickBuild system. The notes in this section are for makers who self-source.

===NOTES ON JUMPER WIRES===

====Wire Lengths====
There are two different lengths of female-female Dupont jumper wires used to make most connections. The longer ones (20cm) are only used for the Hexapod's accessory port connections. The shorter ones are used for all the connections on the Gamepad and all the connections on the Hexapod between the Arduino Nano, Servo controller and Bluetooth module.

====Wire Color Conventions====

Please follow these conventions when selecting wire colors:
* For +5V, Vin, and similar positive voltage connections, use either RED or ORANGE.
* For GND and other negative electrical connections, use BLACK or BROWN.
* For the connectors that sit at the mouth of the accessory port (used for optional sensors) colors are suggested below in the instructions. By following these suggestions you will make your life easier when connecting sensors!
* For all other connections, you can use any color you want, it's arbitrary.

====If Jumper Wires Are Too Loose====
Sometimes you will find a wire whose connector does not grip the pin well enough. It might fall off very easily or just by gravity alone. If that happens, you have a few options:
* There are extra wires in your kit. If you find a wire that's too loose, just use a different wire.
* Using the hex key, you can put the jumper housing on a flat surface then press on the metal showing through the plastic connector, which will tighten up the jumper wire's grip. Don't go too overboard on pressing though or you might make it too hard to insert.
* Alternatively, you could use electrical tape after inserting all the wires on a module (such as the Nano) to effectively attach together all the little plastic female connector housings. In that way, the connectors that do grip will help hold in the ones that are too loose. Some people also like using hot glue for this purpose. (Personally, I don't like using hot glue, as it makes it harder to change connections if you hooked something up incorrectly.)

===NANO PIN CONNECTIONS===
[[File:Megapod-Nano-Connections-v1.JPG|thumb|600px|right|Diagram of Nano connections for the Hexapod. Jumpers marked AP are routed to the Accessory Port for use with add-ons like sensors. Click for larger image.]]
* ''Digital IO Pins:''
** D0, D1 are reserved because they are used for uploading programs to the robot, so nothing will be connected there.
** D2, D3 No connection.
** D4 Buzzer Signal (white wire)
** D5 through D13 No connection. These pins are reserved for future expansion.

* ''Analog Pins:''
** A0 Potentiometer signal (white wire)
** A1 Potentiometer Power (red wire)
** A2 Potentiometer Ground (black wire)
** A3 No connection.
** A4 Servo Controller SDA
** A5 Servo Controller SCL
** A6, A7 No connection.

* ''Power Pins:''
** +5V pin on Nano connects to any of the +5V RED wires coming from the BEC on the power distribution harness.
** GND pin on Nano connects to any of the GND BLACK wires coming from the BEC on the power distribution harness.

===Servo Driver Power Pins===
* Port 0 RED pin on the Servo Driver connects to any of the +5V RED wires coming from the BEC on the power distribution harness.
* Port 0 BLACK GND pin on the Servo Driver connects to any of the GND BLACK wires coming from the BEC on the power distribution harness.

=== Bluetooth Module Power ===
* +5V on HC05 connects to any RED Dupont connector coming off the BEC.
* GND on HC05 connects to any BLACK Dupont connector coming off the BEC.

=== Buzzer Power ===
* Plug the buzzer into the unused port 15 on the servo driver, making sure the red and black wires on the buzzer power match the red and black rows of pins on the servo driver.

=== Servo Driver ===
[[File:Megapod-ServoDriverConnections.jpg|thumb|600px|right|Diagram of Servo Controller pins you will use in this project. Each servo motor has a 3 wire connector that should be plugged into the corresponding servo number extension connector in the power distribution harness. The white wires coming out of the harness in groups of four should be connected to the yellow line or ports, matching the number ranges to port numbers. Note that the black and red rows of pins are not used, power is provided to the servos through the power distribution harness. Click for larger image.]]
* Connect the 12 servos to power distribution harness connectors marked with port numbers corresponding to the servo marking (0 to 11). Make sure the signal wire (yellow) is oriented correctly and matches the yellow plastic header pin.
* Connect the groups of four white wires which are marked with servo port numbers to the Servo Driver yellow pins, matching the Servo Driver pin number to the port numbers written on the 4-pin Dupont connectors coming out of the power distribution harness.
* Connect one of the +5V RED regulated BEC outputs to the RED port 0 pin of the Servo Driver. Connect one of the GND black pins coming out of the BEC to the BLACK port 0 GND pin on the Servo Driver.
* On one short side of the Servo Controller you will find a VCC and V+ pin right next to each other. Use a shunt (small black connector that goes over two pins) to connect those together if one is not already installed. Without this shunt the Servo Driver will not work.
* SDA and SCL go to A4 and A5 on the Nano, respectively.



== Building the Gamepad ==
The gamepad for Gidget the Gigapod is identical to the Gamepad for Vorpal The Hexapod (and also Max the Megapod).

Please see instructions on [[Vorpal_The_Hexapod_Building_Instructions#Building_the_Gamepadd|the Vorpal Hexapod Gamepad Assembly instructions]].

{{Gigapod Quick Links}}

Max The Megapod Assembly Instructions

2021-06-03T14:24:14Z

Vorpalwiki: /* Batteries (not included in kit) */

==BILL OF MATERIALS (BOM) FOR MAX THE MEGAPOD==
===Notes on Sourcing Parts Yourself===
* These instructions assume you have purchased a kit from us. If you are sourcing your own parts, please be aware of the following additional information:
**If you are sourcing your own parts, you need to build the power distribution connector assembly. For diagrams see [[Max The Megapod Battery/Switch Construction]]. This will take about 2 hours of soldering work.
**Also see important information on that page if you are sourcing your own BEC.
**If you are sourcing your own Bluetooth modules, please be aware that you will need to configure them to auto-pair and to have a UART speed of 38400 BAUD. Every module brand's firmware is a bit different so it's not possible for us to give you universal instructions on how to program them. We assume that if you source your own parts you are familiar with how to configure Bluetooth modules using AT-commands. (You can find tutorials online or videos on youtube, but like we said, different modules may not exactly match instructions you will find so be prepared to fiddle around a bit). Please do not ask our customer support for help on this topic. We sell pre-configured modules that auto-pair on boot for a very reasonable price.
**If you are sourcing your own Arduino Nano modules, you will need to flash the robot and gamepad code on them. You can find the code at the [https://github.com/vorpalrobotics/VorpalHexapod Vorpal Hexapod Repo on Github]. Note: there is no difference in software between the large and small versions of the hexapod.
* Please be very careful about substitutions. You might think you can substitute cheaper parts for the ones specified here. Don't bet on it. Walking robots are extremely difficult to design and we've chosen each part for a good reason. For example, if you try to substitute cheaper servos you are very likely to find that they don't provide enough torque for the robot to stand up, or they wear out within minutes due to being overstressed. If you substitute a different battery voltage, you'll either fry the servos or they won't have enough torque. It took 1000 hours of work to design the smaller hexapod on which this one is based, then another 500 hours to get the big version working well.
* Full kits of parts as well as individual parts are available on [http://vorpal-robotics-store.myshopify.com The Vorpal Robotics Store]. If you are new to Arduino and robotics we strongly recommend you purchase a kit instead of trying to self-source parts. The kits cut 3 to 4 hours off the build time, bringing it to typically 2 to 2.5 hours. The kits have all soldering done, programs are already loaded on the Nanos, Bluetooth modules are properly configured, and you know you have all the right parts to work together. About half the people who self-source parts end up buying parts that are incorrect or are so cheap that they will quickly fail (and they end up spending more money and far more time than if they had simply bought a kit to start with!)

=== ROBOT BOM ===
[[File:Choking-Hazard-Image.jpg|right|350px]]
[[File:PinchPoint-Warning.JPG|right|350px]]
* ''Electronics:''
** Passive Piezo Buzzer module and 3 wire cable (see image) [[File:Passive-Piezo-Buzzer-Module.jpg|right|thumb|Passive Piezo Buzzer Module]]
** Arduino Nano, 5V, 16 mHz, ATMEGA328 or similar (marked RM in our kit to indicate it is pre-loaded with megapod robot software)
** Rotary potentiometer, 10K Ohms, 6mm shaft diameter, with 3 wires pre-soldered. Also, matching dial cap and nut. If you are self-sourcing see our instructions: [[Max The Megapod Battery/Switch Construction]]
** 1 x HC05 BlueTooth Module with 4 x F-F jumper wires for making connections (Note: the HC05 has six pins but only four are used in this project. Also, this is in the Gamepad Parts bag if you purchase our kit.)
** 1 x Servo Controller module (Adafruit 16-channel 12-bit I2C PWM/Servo driver or Adafruit clone) with F-F jumper wires for making connections, plus 1 two-pin shunt tying V+ to VCC
** 12 x MG958 servo motors and associated servo horns (you will only use the single-arm horn). NOTE: our kits come with one extra servo as a spare, there are 13 in the kit but only 12 are needed. We recommend 25T size metal horns for the knee servos (the ones that insert into the legs). We provide six metal horns with our kits as of November 2019. The plastic horns will wear out on the knee servos after about 4 to 8 hours of use and their splines will strip.
** 1 x Power distribution wiring harness with DPST on/off switch, Fuse, Tamiya battery connector, 3A 5V BEC, and servo extension connectors. If you are self-sourcing see our wiring instructions: [[Max The Megapod Battery/Switch Construction|Circuit Diagrams]].
* ''3D Printed Parts:''
** 3 Robot Base Parts and bottom plate to hold the parts together.
** 3 Robot Base Covers (used to enclose wiring inside the Base).
** 4 Cap parts which screw together to form the cap of the robot.
** 6 x Legs
** 12 x Servo Stops. These parts hold the servos in their compartments both in the base and the legs.
** 12 x Leg Hinge halves with Leg Hinge Rings. The rings stop layer separation issues under stress.
** 1 x Electronics Caddy to hold nano and servo controller
** 2 x Eye/glasses Decoration
* Screws and Fasteners
** 12 x button head screw, M3 x 12mm long with M3 toothed lock washers (for servo horns)
** 6 x #6-32 x 7/8" socket head screws (to fasten together "bowl" of base and cap parts).
** 3 x #6-32 x 5/8" socket head screws (to fasten top of cap onto cap bowl)
** 12 x #6-32 x 1.5" socket head cap screws for securing servos in their sockets.
** 2 x #6-32 1” socket head screw (for accessory port)
** 2 x #6-32 0.75" socket head screw (for accessory port)
** 2 x #6 wingnut (for accessory port)
** 19 x #6 nut
** 19 x #6 toothed lock washer
** 9 x #6-32 7/8” socket head screws with lock washers (for fastening Base and Cap sections together)
* ''Miscellaneous:''
** 12 x 608 Skate Bearings
** 8 x 18mm diameter ceramic magnet, approximately 5mm thick, north pole marked. 6 are for robot top, 2 for eye/glasses decorations
** 1 x T handle hex driver, 2mm, for button head screws.
** 1 x T handle hex driver, 7/64" for socket head screws.
* Tools not included in the kit:
** Needle nose pliers are useful for holding the nuts while assembling BASE and CAP parts.
** Slip-pliers are useful for forcing skate bearings into their press-fit locations on the Leg Hinges
** Hot glue gun and glue sticks for securing magnets. You can also use cyanoacrylate glue (i.e. "super glue") or any glue that works on both plastic and metal.
** If you have an electric screwdriver this will make assembly of the servo stops much faster. You would need a 7/64" hex key attachment.
=== Batteries (not included in kit)===
Three batteries are needed for this project:
* Max uses a main battery pack consisting of a five-cell NIMH battery pack with a nominal voltage of 6.0 volts, a minimum of 4000 mAh capacity, 18 gauge or thicker wires, and a full size male Tamiya connector.
* Max also uses a secondary 9v battery through a 5V regulator to drive the electronics (Arduino, Bluetooth module, Servo driver, etc).
* A second 9v battery is needed for the gamepad.

We recommend rechargeable 9v batteries, they can be NIMN, LI-ON, or NICAD.

Make sure you have a compatible charger for all rechargeable batteries.

A main battery pack we have used with success is this one: [https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003WTSPHG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Dynamite 6.0v 5100 mAh NIMH Battery] although many others are available on the market. NOTE: we do not recommend going beyond 7500 mAh capacity as the weight of the battery will start to be too large past that point.

The battery specs should confirm that the main pack can output 5 amps continuously and can handle spikes to 10amps on an intermittent basis (5 seconds maximum). Most NIMH batteries at 4000 mAh or more will fulfill this requirement.

Note: we do not recommend substituting LI-ON batteries for the main pack on the Megapod, as they often cannot supply enough amps or will overheat under too high a load. We do not recommend NICAD batteries for environmental reasons. NIMH is really the perfect battery type for this application.

Many hobby and RC suppliers have cable converters to go from Tamiya connectors to other types (cross, XT60, etc.) so it is possible to use NIMH batteries with other kinds of connector if you can locate or construct a suitable adapter cable. If you construct your own battery conversion cable you must be extremely careful to do it properly, as batteries can be dangerous if connected improperly.

=== GAMEPAD ===
The gamepad for Max The Megapod is identical to the gamepad for Vorpal The Hexapod. See instructions for the gamepad here: [[Vorpal_The_Hexapod_Building_Instructions#Building_the_Gamepadd|Vorpal The Hexapod Gamepad Assembly instructions]]

==Printing the Plastic Parts==

This section assumes you have basic familiarity with 3D printing and 3D printing terminology. If not, you might want to reference online materials such as youtube videos or information from your 3D printer manufacturer before attempting this project.

===OBTAINING THE STL FILES===
We have posted the STL files our public dropbox folder: [http://tinyurl.com/VORPALFILES VORPAL FILES]. Go to the STL folder, then the GAMEPAD and MEGAPOD folders have the files you need. (The same gamepad is shared among all our hexapod projects).

Please post your builds to places like Thingiverse, pictures to FaceBook, Instagram, etc., and videos of your robot to YouTube! This will help us grow and continue having the resources creating cool new projects for our community.

===MINIMUM PRINTER REQUIREMENTS===
*The bed size should be at least 200mm cube (about 8 inches cube). The largest parts are the megapod Base-1, Base-2, and Base-3 parts, so it is the limiting factor on bed size.
*A heated bed is strongly recommended, especially if you are printing in ABS.
*An enclosure is recommended, especially if printing in ABS.
===AMOUNT OF PLASTIC FILAMENT===
* About 2.5 kg of plastic are needed to print the entire robot and gamepad. This does not include accessories like Joust attachments, etc.
* The amount of plastic used does depend on plastic type and exact print settings though, so your mileage may vary.
===RECOMMENDED PLASTICS===
*ABS, PETG, and PLA all work well. However, because there are some very large parts, ABS may cause you some warping issues if you don't have a heated bed, enclosure, and a printer tuned well for large parts. PLA is generally easier and has fewer issues with corners peeling off the print bed.
*We use eSun PLA PRO for this project and for us it works very well. PLA PRO is a little more flexible and stronger than typical PLA. We have no problems with warping even on the largest parts.
*This project requires less flexibility than the smaller Vorpal The Hexapod project, so ABS is less required for this project.
===PRINTING TIPS===
This project has been finely tuned to make it easy to 3D print. No supports are required for any of the parts (there is a support built into the models for the CAP parts). In some cases you may want to use brims or rafts to help parts adhere to the print surface.

There is some significant bridging with some spans up to 30mm (1.2"). It is important to tune your printer and make sure it can handle the bridging before attempting the large parts. A little sagging is ok and a drip or two can be easily removed, but you need decent ability to bridge. There are bridge testing and calibration models posted on sites like Thingiverse that may help you tune your printer before trying the big parts.

====PRINT SETTINGS====
We print using the following settings on a Lulzbot TAZ 6 with 0.5mm nozzle:
* 0.4 layer thickness (or whatever layer thickness is the largest that will work on your printer)
* 2mm walls (i.e. four perimeters for a 0.5mm nozzle)
* 1.6 mm top and bottom (i.e. four layers at 0.4mm layer height)
* 25% infill
* You can print with thinner layers if your printer does not support 0.4mm layers or if you want a more refined look, it will just take longer. If you have a large nozzle (0.8mm or more) you should be able to go with bigger layers and save a lot of print time. Please report your findings to us at support@vorpalrobotics.com so we can advise future Makers of this project.
====BRIMS AND RAFTS====
* Brims or rafts are recommended for the following hexapod parts: Base, Legs, Cap. This ensures proper bed retention to avoid warping. These parts have relatively little contact area with the print bed, or have certain sections with little contact.
*If you have a very well dialed-in printer and have no issues with warping or corners curling up during prints, you can try them without brims. We don't use brims on anything but we've printed thousands of parts and we keep our printers very well tuned all the time with weekly maintenance and adjustments.
*These parts are large so if you don't use brims and things don't work out you might kill half a roll of plastic ... so maybe just use brims, it only adds a few minutes of cleanup time.
* Brims/rafts are not recommended on any of the other parts. The other parts generally have enough bed surface contact that they will print fine without brims. Your mileage may vary however and it is recommended that you keep a close eye on the first few layers of the print to make sure everything is sticking properly.
* We personally prefer brims over rafts (such as available in Cura and Simplify3D) as they are easy to remove and leave a clean look.
====POST PRINT====
Other than removing brims/rafts and the occasional drip, there is not any special post-processing required after printing. Some of the big bridges might seem a little saggy but generally speaking there's enough tolerance that this won't cause an issue. The biggest bridges are mostly hidden inside the robot so they won't affect cosmetics.

====PRO TIPS====
*Do routine maintenance on your printer before printing the big parts: lubricate rods and lead screws, check bed leveling, replace nozzle if worn, do a calibration print, clean your print surface, etc. A few minutes of preparation will help you nail these prints and make a project you can be very proud of!
*Print the large parts (Base, Cap) at the ''start'' of new spools. The last thing you want is to run out of filament 95% of the way through a big part.
*Print the smallest parts (servo stops, hinge rings, gamepad drawer) near the end of a spool.
*If you have a large format printer, it is tempting to kick off all three Base parts at once and let it run overnight. We would recommend against that--the chances of killing an entire spool of filament due to an overnight power hit or other failure is just not worth it. Take your time, do the big parts one by one. One or two during the day, one overnight. It will all get done soon enough. An extra couple of days won't matter in the long run.

== Building the Robot ==

You will need the following tools:
*Included in the kit:
** 2mm hex key. A 5/64 inch hex key will also work. This is in the Megapod Parts bag.
** 7/64 hex key at least 6" long (150mm). It needs to be long enough to reach screws through access holes in the Base and Cap. This is in the Megapod Parts Bag.
*Not included in the kit:
** Optional: A marker that can write on dark plastic and still be seen, such as Sharpie Metallic or Sharpie Oil markers (white and yellow work great on dark colored plastic, black or blue work well on light colored plastic). This can be used to make raised lettering on the robot and gamepad more visible.
** Optional: Needle nose pliers can be helpful for holding nuts in place while tightening screws.
** Optional: Slip-joint pliers can be helpful for forcing the skate bearings into their press-fit locations on the Leg Hinges
** Optional: An electric screwdriver with a 7/64" hex key attachment will greatly speed up the process of locking the servos in place using the servo stop parts. There are 12 long screws to insert. Do yourself a favor, electric screwdrivers are not expensive these days and are very handy.

===IMPORTANT WARNING: POWERFUL SERVOS MAY INJURE YOU===
The motors on Max the Megapod are very powerful compared to the smaller Vorpal the Hexapod project. It is possible for the leg motions to pinch fingers or even possibly break fingers or cause other injuries. When powering on the Megapod you must keep fingers clear of places where the legs/hips can come together. In case of electrical issues the legs may move unexpectedly. Turning the power off will release the motors. Never let small children play with the megapod or grab at it when it's walking or moving.

If the robot is moving in an out of control manner, use a pencil, book, or rod to hit the power switch, which is large and easy to turn off.

You must at all times take standard precautions that are typical with large robotic projects.

If you are building your own electrical system please do not skimp by skipping adding the fuse to the circuit. This project may draw significant amperage and fuse protection is required.

===Step by Step Instructions===
====STEP 1: Insert accessory port screws in the chassis====
This is easier to do before the Base is assembled into a single part.
* Insert 1" #6-32 socket head screws in the bottom two holes of the accessory port with the head of the screw inside the hexapod, then secure using lock washers and nuts outside. Repeat for the top two accessory holes with shorter 3/4" #6-32 socket head screws. Two wingnuts go on the two lower screws, these will be used to secure accessories such as the Jousting Lance.
<gallery mode=packed>
File:Accessory-Port-Diagram-V2.JPG|The accessory port is considered the "front" of the robot.
File:Accessory-Port-Screws.JPG|Longer socket head screws go on the bottom. Do not overtighten the nuts.
File:Wing-Nuts-Installed.JPG|After installing the nuts, put the wingnuts on the bottom screws. They'll be used later to secure accessories.
</gallery>

====STEP 2: Build the BASE====
* STEP 1A: Take the three outer parts of the base (STL files: Base-1, Base-2, Base-3) and arrange them to form the "bowl" of the base. Make sure the servo numbers are in the right order as you move clockwise around the three parts! It's possible to assemble them in the wrong order if you don't check.
* STEP 1B: There are matching screw holes positioned on little rectangular outcroppings on the inside of the top ring, these require screws to bind the three parts together. Use three 7/8 inch socket head screws, toothed lock washers, and nuts to secure them. There is an access hole in the rim of the robot to allow the hex key to turn the screw. You may need to hold the nut in place using needle-nose pliers. Repeat for all three sections.
<gallery mode=packed heights=250>
File:Base-Exploded-View.JPG|Line up the three main pieces of the base, ensuring the servo numbers are in order.
File:Access-Hole-In-Base.jpg|Small access holes are strategically placed around the base so the hex key can turn the screws to secure the three base pieces.
File:Securing-Base-Sections.jpg|Use the access hole in the Base parts to secure screws that bind the three base parts together.
File:Megapod-Foam-Squares.jpg|Peel the backing off the foam squares that came with the kit and attach them to the bottom of the base. Stack them on top of each other.
</gallery>
* STEP 1C: Take the Base Bottom part and place it inside the base. There is a nub in one place that will only allow it to be inserted in one orientation. Use 5/8" screws in the outer ring of holes in the bottom to secure it to the base. The head of the screw should be on the outside of the robot and nuts should secure the screws on the inside. NOTE: There are six outer ring holes, however you only need three of them (one in each base section) to secure the robot. Early versions of the kit only had three 5/8" screws.
* STEP 1D: Take the foam squares that came in your kit and stick them on the bottom of the robot. (Build up several layers, they stick to each other.) These foam pads will reduce the shock and stress on the robot when it goes down to the floor on certain dance moves. Without these pads, the robot leg servos and body structure may undergo too much stress.

====STEP 3: Install the electrical system in the base====
* STEP 3A: Take the potentiometer and remove its dial cap, then unscrew the nut and set these items aside for now (don't lose them). Push the potentiometer shaft from the inside of the chassis into the hole that is surrounded by the markings "STOP", "TST", etc. The wires coming out of the potentiometer should be pointing down. The little metal nub sticking out of the potentiometer should match with a tiny rectangular hole that is near the marking "TST". Put the retaining nut on the potentiometer, hand tighten first and then give it just another half turn or so with pliers if desired. Turn the knob all the way counter-clockwise, then insert the knob so it points to the letter "O" in the word "STOP".
* STEP 3B: Take the large DPST on/off switch (which is attached to the battery holder and power distribution assembly) and thread the switch wires from the inside through the gap at the bottom of the switch hole (see picture). Carefully push the wires one by one through the slot below the switch hole. Once all the wires are through, push the switch into the switch hole. It should be oriented with the "1" to the right. Press carefully into the hole, it should snap firmly in place.
** If the fit is too tight to get the switch in place, lightly sanding or filing the hole to make it a tiny bit larger should work.
<gallery mode=packed heights=200>
File:Switch-Insert-1.jpg|Thread the switch and its wires through the Base, there is an opening under the switch hole.
File:Switch-Insert-2.jpg|Bring the wires up through the small gap below the switch hole. Be careful with the large wires, they require some pressure or some flexing of the plastic to get through.
File:Switch-Insert-3.jpg|All the wires are now coming through the switch hole.
File:Switch-Insert-4.jpg|Press the switch into the hole, it should snap into place. The "1" should be to the right.
</gallery>

====STEP 4: Insert servos in the chassis====
* Next, insert the servo into the chassis as shown in the diagrams below. As you insert the servo into the chassis, slowly press it straight into place until it fully seats. Use a servo stopper and one 1.5 inch #6 socket screw to secure the servos in place. Use the hole nearest to the front of the servo. NOTE: There are two holes in the Servo Stop but we have found that one screw is enough to hold it. The second hole could be used if you find that the plastic you use tears through the hole. We have not seen this but we added the second hole just in case.
<gallery mode=packed heights=250>
File:Servo-in-Base-2.jpg|Insert each servo with the wire coming out away from the robot as shown here. Press in completely.
File:Servo-in-Base-3.jpg|Insert a servo stopper (shown in red) and secure with one 1.5" screw in the hole nearest the front (the servo shaft and horn is in the front). Thread the wire into the body of the robot through the hole as shown.
</gallery>

====STEP 5: Insert the servos in the Legs====
The technique is very similar to inserting the servo into the chassis.
*Insert the servo straight into the leg socket so that the wire is coming out of the servo facing away from the plastic leg and the face of the servo with the shaft and servo horn goes into the open faced side of the leg, as shown in the diagram.
*Secure the servo in place with a servo stopper and one 1.5 inch screw as you did with the hip servos in the base. NOTE: There are two holes in the stopper but we have found that one screw is enough to hold it. The second hole could be used if you find that the plastic you use tears through the hole. We have not seen this but we added the second hole just in case.
*The servos in the legs are called the "knee" servos. Each leg has a higher number on it, this is the knee number, they run from 6 to 11. Again, write this number on the black connector at the end of the servo wire. PRO TIP: For 6 and 9, underline the number so you don't read them upside down!
<gallery mode=packed heights=200>
File:Servo-Insert-Leg-v2.png|Insert Servos in Legs
File:Servo-Leg-Inserted-v2.png|Push until fully seated
File:Servo-Stopper-In-Leg.jpg|Use the servo stopper and two screws to lock the servo in place
</gallery>

*Thread each leg servo wire into the bottom wire guide slot on the chassis. Each leg servo should be matched with a hip servo plus 6. The legs are marked with the hip number near the top and the knee number below that. For example, the leg marked 6 should be threaded through the wire guide on hip servo 0, leg 7 goes with hip 1, leg 8 goes with hip 2, etc. Add 6 to the hip number to get the leg number.

====STEP 6: Plug in the Servos====
Thread the servo wires into the chassis using the routing holes, as you did with the hip servos. The power distribution harness has marked servo extension sockets for each servo. Each hip servo is marked on the BASE showing its number. the knee servo for each hip is numbered six higher than its corresponding hip. For example, hip servo number 3 will be attached to knee servo number 9, because 3+6=9.

When plugging the servos in, make sure you match the light yellow servo wire to the white servo extension wire, and the dark brown servo wire should match with the black servo extension wire.

====STEP 7: Make Robot Electrical Connections====

Now use the diagram below in the electrical section to make the rest of the robot's electrical connections. You'll be using the Robot Arduino Nano (marked "R"), the Servo Driver, Bluetooth Module marked "S", the buzzer, and a bunch of jumper wires. Make sure you use the longer jumper wires for the SDA and SCL connections between the Nano and the Servo Driver.

====STEP 8: Assemble the leg hinges====
[[File:Servo-Bracket-Alignment-v1.png|thumb|350px|right|Align the leg hinges as shown here. The bumps (see arrows) should both be near each other when properly aligned. Hold one in each hand with the ends of the U shape between thumb and forefinger.]]
Each leg hinge is composed of two identical U-shaped parts. Take one in each hand and align the two so that the bump (shown in the diagram at the right) are both near each other. Turn one 90 degrees with respect to the other.
*Gently squeeze each piece between thumb and forefinger, which causes the little jaws in the center to open up slightly. Work the two halves together. Keep squeezing harder until the ends slide into place. NOTE: Make sure you printed version V1r2b or later. Earlier versions made it too difficult to squeeze the parts into place. If you printed an earlier version, you may need to trim some plastic using angle cutters to get the parts together.
*If you used PLA and are finding it hard to bend, briefly soaking the pieces in very hot tap water has been reported to make it easier. Take care not to scald yourself, the water does not have to be boiling, just hot from the tap. You only need to dip the ends that will lock over each other, not the parts you will squeeze. Use caution.
*At this stage, you may notice that the parts are loosely clamped on each other (this depends on plastic used and whether your printer over- or under-extrudes). Don't worry! When you place the leg hinges over a servo, the servo will spread it apart and they will lock together tightly.
*Insert a 608 skate bearing into the socket on one side of the leg hinges. Pliers may be necessary to press them into place. Make sure you clean up any drips inside the recessed area for the skate bearing before attempting to insert the bearings.

====STEP 9: Attach Leg Hinges====
The leg hinges connect the hips to the knees. They only go on one way. If you made sure to align the bumps when assembling the leg hinges, this will result in correct orientation of all legs.
*First place the end that matches the servo horn on about halfway. Make sure the servo horn slides under the little pocket at the end of recessed area that accepts the horn.
*Very slightly bend the U shaped piece while pulling the skate bearing side over the hemispherical bump on the other side of the servo holding area. It's a little easier to do the knees (servos mounted to legs) first, followed by the hips (servos on base).
*NOTE: It will be a tight fit, but it should not be excessively difficult to push the hinge over the hemispherical bearing. If you find you are struggling, that means the hinges are too tight. This may affect walking. This can be due to the kind of plastic you used or how your printer is adjusted. You may need to gently spread the two legs of the U shape by hand before putting the hinge on the robot. Be careful of course not to break the hinge.
*When completed, double check to make sure the servo horn went into the covered pocket at the end of its recessed area. This pocket keeps the horn from slipping out of the hinge during stressful operations.

====STEP 10: Enclose the electronics modules in their caddies====

Now things look pretty messy with all those wires hanging loose, let's clean it up by stowing the Arduino Nano, Bluetooth module and Servo Driver in their caddies. The caddies will keep them safe by making sure they can't short out against each other or touch screws, etc.
* '''STEP 10A: Insert Caddy Bars''' Insert the electronics caddy bars as shown in the diagrams below. Notice carefully how they are inserted. Don't insert them upside down, the little hump should be facing inward toward the caddy. You may need to slightly squeeze the forked section at the end to work it into the hole. Once inside, it may be difficult to remove because it will snap into place, so be sure you're putting it in the right way.
<gallery mode=packed heights=300>
File:Insert-Caddy-Bar-1.jpg|Insertion of the caddy bar into the Nano caddy. Notice the orientation, don't put the bar in upside down. The same technique is used for the Servo Driver Caddy.
</gallery>
* '''STEP 10B: Insert the Arduino Nano into its caddy''' Carefully insert the Nano as shown, making sure you don't pull out any of the wires. You may need to wiggle the caddy bar from side to side a bit so that components can slide past it during insertion. Notice that the end of the Nano that has the USB port must go in last.

<gallery mode=packed heights=250>
File:Insert-Nano-In-Caddy-1.jpg|Insert the Nano in the orientation shown.
File:Insert-Nano-In-Caddy-2.jpg|You may need to wiggle it a bit or press on the bar to work it into place.
File:Insert-Nano-In-Caddy-3.jpg|Note how the USB port is accessible through the top after full insertion.
</gallery>

* '''STEP 10C: Insert the Servo Driver into its caddy''' Carefully insert the Servo Driver as shown, making sure you don't pull out any of the wires. You may need to wiggle the caddy bar from side to side a bit so that components can slide past it during insertion. Notice that the end of the Servo controller with wires sticking out of it must go in last.

<gallery mode=packed heights=200>
File:Insert-ServoDriver-In-Caddy-1.jpg|Insert the Servo Driver in the orientation shown.
File:Insert-ServoDriver-In-Caddy-2.jpg|You may need to wiggle it a bit or press on the bar to work it into place.
File:Insert-ServoDriver-In-Caddy-3.jpg|Note that the end with the wires goes in last.
</gallery>

* '''STEP 10D: Insert the HC05 Bluetooth Module''' The diagrams here do not show the wires to make them easier to visualize. The HC05 Bluetooth module with a name beginning with "S" should be used for the robot. For example, the label will read something like "VORP S2944" (the number will differ). The one marked "M" will be used for the gamepad. Slide the HC05 into the side drawer as shown. When inserting, be careful not to pull out the wires, which will be a little tight. Work the wires into the little space provided so they stay clear of the robot's cap when it gets screwed on later.

<gallery mode=packed heights=250>
File:Insert-HC05-in-Caddy-1.jpg|Insert the HC05 into the side drawer of the Nano Caddy as shown.
File:Insert-HC05-in-Caddy-2.jpg|When fully inserted, the indicator light will still be visible through the small oval.
File:Insert-HC05-in-Caddy-3.jpg|The wires should be tucked into the little cavity near the pins of the HC05.
</gallery>

====STEP 11: Power up!====
Make sure the on/off switch is off, and the knob is turned to STOP. Insert batteries and power on the robot using the on/off switch. You should hear a beep, a pause, then a second beep. The servos should all twitch into position. If the robot does not move at all, immediately turn the switch off and check your connections again. If some of the servos don't move then gently push them with power off to see if you can free them up. If they still won't move, try pushing them with power applied, but turn off the power within 30 seconds if they're locked up. If you can't get the servo to move it will need to be replaced.

[[File:Servo-Horn-Orientation.png|thumb|right|The servo horn should come straight out from the body at a 90 degree angle as shown here. Do not turn the servo shaft by hand until after it has moved under power!]]

====STEP 12: Insert Servo Horns====
The servo horns are all at random angles right now due to the servo pre-check. In this step we'll make them point in the right direction. The knee servos are not at 90 degrees when the knob is all the way counter clockwise, rather they are at a 30 degree standing angle.

We need to get them to 90 degrees so its easy to align the servo horn, and this is done by going into "Adjust Mode". Turn the knob very slightly clockwise until you hear a beep, then stop. After about one second you will see all the knee servos twitch. This is "adjust servo horn mode". All servos (knees and hips) are now at their halfway point, 90 degrees.

Now you need to take each single arm servo horn and carefully insert it on the shaft so that it is sticking straight out as shown in the figure. You will not always be able to make the horn come totally straight out. This is because there are only 22 little groves (splines) in each shaft, meaning you can in general only come within about 8 degrees of being at a perfect 90 degree angle. This amount of error is acceptable for now, just get it as close as you can. Later we'll use Trim Mode to make fine adjustments.

====STEP 13: Test Knee Positions====
Turn the knob fully counter clockwise (to STOP) and the robot will go into "stand still" mode. Place it on a level surface such as a table top. Do all of the legs touch the ground? If one or more legs don't touch the ground, you need to adjust the servo horn on the knee a little bit so it does touch. Gently pull off the servo bracket. Pull the servo horn off, and put it back on just a little bit moved so the leg would move closer to the ground. Put the servo bracket back on, and see how it looks. Do this until all legs are at least slightly touching the ground. Again, you can't necessarily be perfect due to the 8 degree increments the servo horns can be moved. But you should be able to be close enough that all legs at least slightly touch the ground.

====STEP 14: Insert Servo Screws====
Now that the legs are adjusted, you can insert the M3x12 screws (with M3 lock washers) into the servo horns to lock them in place. Note that you will NOT be using the screws that were in the little bag the servos came in, you'll be using the separate pack of screws, which are longer than the ones in the servo bag. Do not overtighten these screws, as you could possibly crack the servo brackets. Just turn the screws until you start to feel resistance, then turn a quarter turn more and stop.

====STEP 14: Test the Servos====
*'''STEP 14A: Using TST Mode'''
**To test whether every servo is working, put the robot on something that will lift its legs off the table top, but won't interfere with the legs (a small box, etc.).
**Start with the knob on STOP, then slowly turn it clockwise. You'll hear one beep (Adjust mode), then a second beep (Test mode). Stop turning and the robot will go into "individual servo test mode". In this mode, every hip servo will move, one by one. When all the hips have moved, every leg will move, one by one. You should see every servo move, in order. If some don't move, check your connections. A common error is to plug a servo connector into the servo controller backwards (i.e. the brown wire is matched with the yellow pin instead of the black pin). If the servos do not move in a sensible order, that probably means you plugged a couple of servos into the wrong sockets in the electrical harness.

*'''STEP 14B: Test Using Demo Mode'''
**Ok, everything looks good, so time for a full test. Turn the knob to STOP, then put the robot on the floor, somewhere that has at least a few feet of room in each direction. (Caution: it's tempting to do this on a table top, but unless you have a huge table this is not advisable, Max will run pretty fast at some points during the demo.)
**Turn the knob to DEMO, and about one second later the robot will go through a series of movements to demonstrate some of the things it can do. The full demo only takes about 30 seconds, then repeats. Here, you are looking for the robot to, for example, be able to get back up off the floor after doing some of its dance moves.
**If the robot struggles to get off the floor, you may have a battery that is not fully charged, or there may be drips or other obstructions stopping some legs from moving fully. See the [[Vorpal Combat_Hexapod Troubleshooting Guide|Trouble Shooting Guide]] for more information about different kinds of issues that can occur. That guide was written for the small robot, but most of the things that can go wrong with Max the Megapod are identical to the things that can go wrong with Vorpal The Hexapod.

====STEP 15: Store electronics and wires in the Base====
Carefully stow the caddies into the base, using any available convenient space. Arrange the servo and other wires so they don't cross any screw holes. The three Base Cover parts can be used to secure everything, however you may not want to put in more than one screw each at this point, until the robot is more fully tested. Be sure the two battery connectors come through the holes provided for them in the Cover parts.
<gallery mode=packed heights=250>
File:All-Electronics-Inserted-In-Base.jpg|Carefully stow the caddies into the base, being careful not to pull out any wires. Press servo wires into place too, make sure they don't overlap any screw holes.
File:Base-Covers-3.jpg|Place the three covers in place. It is not necessary to screw them down at this point, you may want to wait until the robot is more fully tested. We normally just put in one screw on each component at this point--this makes it easy to get back into the electronics if something needs to be checked.
</gallery>

====STEP 16: Assemble the Cap====
*'''STEP 16A: Assemble the Four Cap Parts'''
**First assemble the three large pieces after removing the support coming out of the center. Be aware that there is a correct ordering to them, the two flaps that stick out near the bottom need to be opposite each other so the cap can slot into the Base and lock in place. Use 7/8" screws to secure the three parts together as shown. There are access holes around the rim that allow the hex key to reach the screws. Use nuts and locking washers to secure the screws.
**Secure the top of the cap onto the bottom three pieces using three 5/8" #6 socket screws and their associated nuts and toothed lock washers.
<gallery mode=packed heights=250>
File:Cap-Exploded.JPG|Arrangement of the four Cap parts. Note that this diagram shows the support in place, this should actually be removed prior to assembly.
File:CAP-Assembly-order.JPG|Make sure the two flaps at the rim are opposite each other when ordering the three main parts.
</gallery>
* '''STEP 16B: Put magnets in the Cap''' Insert a magnet in each magnet holder in the cap. The magnets are marked with a dot on the North pole side. It is important that this dot be showing after installation. In other words, insert the magnet with the non-dot side down. The magnet is about 2mm smaller in diameter than the hole, so you will need to use hot glue (or some other kind of glue that works on metal and plastic) to secure it.
* '''STEP 16C: Decorate''' If desired, use a permanent marker to color the Vorpal "V" on top of the Cap. Oil markers work well. On light colors of plastic a black permanent marker will also work.
* '''STEP 16D: Put Cap on the Hexapod'''
**Screw the cap on the robot by lining up the tabs with the matching slots in the rim of the base. Turn the cap clockwise to lock it in place. IMPORTANT: Do not press down on the robot to insert the cap when the robot is under power standing on its legs! You can damage the leg motors by doing this. It is best to turn the robot off, and either support the bottom of the Base with one hand and press the Cap on with the other, or set the Base down on the table top or floor with legs out to the sides so they don't take pressure.
**If the cap is too loose and swivels while the robot moves, this can be fixed by putting a bit of tape on the cap's flaps to make them a little thicker. The tightness of the cap depends a lot on printer settings, over- or under-extrusion, etc.

====STEP 17: Warning Label====
There are two a self-stick choking hazard warning labels in the hexapod parts bag. Peel the backing off one of them and place it on the bottom of the robot, near the center. Retain the second label for the gamepad.

==== Step 18: Trimming the Servos ====
When you assembled the servo horns onto the servos, you probably were not able to get them all to come out exactly at a 90 degree angle. That's not your fault: the servo horns only have 22 possible positions in which they can be installed, so at best you can come within plus or minus 8 degrees of perfection.

Now that you have the gamepad working, you can make fine adjustments to the servo positions using "Trim Mode". In this special gamepad mode, you can adjust all the servos. These adjustments are saved in the robot's EEPROM, which is memory on the Nano that retains data even when powered off. So, you only need to trim once.

Complete instructions on how to use trim mode are in the wiki page: [[Vorpal The Hexapod Trim Mode Guide]]. That guide was written for the smaller robot, but the instructions are identical for Max the Megapod.

NOTE: although this step is optional, it is recommended because your robot will walk straighter and all the servos will share equally in lifting the robot's weight, which will make them last longer.

====Step 19: Assembling Eye Decorations====
Glue a magnet into the magnet hole on both sets of eyes. The magnet should have the marked side face down, not showing.

You can use hot glue, "superglue" or any other kind of glue that works on plastic and metal.

==Electrical Connections: Robot==

===NOTES ON JUMPER WIRES===

====Wire Lengths====
There are two different lengths of female-female Dupont jumper wires used to make most connections. The longer ones (20cm) are only used for the Hexapod's accessory port connections. The shorter ones are used for all the connections on the Gamepad and all the connections on the Hexapod between the Arduino Nano, Servo controller and Bluetooth module.

====Wire Color Conventions====

Please follow these conventions when selecting wire colors:
* For +5V, Vin, and similar positive voltage connections, use either RED or ORANGE.
* For GND and other negative electrical connections, use BLACK or BROWN.
* For the connectors that sit at the mouth of the accessory port (used for optional sensors) colors are suggested below in the instructions. By following these suggestions you will make your life easier when connecting sensors!
* For all other connections, you can use any color you want, it's arbitrary.

====If Jumper Wires Are Too Loose====
Sometimes you will find a wire whose connector does not grip the pin well enough. It might fall off very easily or just by gravity alone. If that happens, you have a few options:
* There are extra wires in your kit. If you find a wire that's too loose, just use a different wire.
* Using the hex key, you can put the jumper housing on a flat surface then press on the metal showing through the plastic connector, which will tighten up the jumper wire's grip. Don't go too overboard on pressing though or you might make it too hard to insert.
* Alternatively, you could use electrical tape after inserting all the wires on a module (such as the Nano) to effectively attach together all the little plastic female connector housings. In that way, the connectors that do grip will help hold in the ones that are too loose. Some people also like using hot glue for this purpose. (Personally, I don't like using hot glue, as it makes it harder to change connections if you hooked something up incorrectly.)

===NANO PIN CONNECTIONS===
[[File:Megapod-Nano-Connections-v1.JPG|thumb|600px|right|Diagram of Nano connections for the Hexapod. Jumpers marked AP are routed to the Accessory Port for use with add-ons like sensors. Click for larger image.]]
* ''Digital IO Pins:''
** D0, D1 are reserved because they are used for uploading programs to the robot, so nothing will be connected there.
** D2, D3 No connection.
** D4 Buzzer Signal (white wire)
** D5 through D13 No connection. These pins are reserved for future expansion.

* ''Analog Pins:''
** A0 Potentiometer signal (white wire)
** A1 Potentiometer Power (red wire)
** A2 Potentiometer Ground (black wire)
** A3 No connection.
** A4 Servo Controller SDA
** A5 Servo Controller SCL
** A6, A7 No connection.

* ''Power Pins:''
** +5V pin on Nano connects to any of the +5V RED wires coming from the BEC on the power distribution harness.
** GND pin on Nano connects to any of the GND BLACK wires coming from the BEC on the power distribution harness.

===Servo Driver Power Pins===
* Port 0 RED pin on the Servo Driver connects to any of the +5V RED wires coming from the BEC on the power distribution harness.
* Port 0 BLACK GND pin on the Servo Driver connects to any of the GND BLACK wires coming from the BEC on the power distribution harness.

=== Bluetooth Module Power ===
* +5V on HC05 connects to any RED Dupont connector coming off the BEC.
* GND on HC05 connects to any BLACK Dupont connector coming off the BEC.

=== Buzzer Power ===
* Plug the buzzer into the unused port 15 on the servo driver, making sure the red and black wires on the buzzer power match the red and black rows of pins on the servo driver.

=== Servo Driver ===
[[File:Megapod-ServoDriverConnections.jpg|thumb|600px|right|Diagram of Servo Controller pins you will use in this project. Each servo motor has a 3 wire connector that should be plugged into the corresponding servo number extension connector in the power distribution harness. The white wires coming out of the harness in groups of four should be connected to the yellow line or ports, matching the number ranges to port numbers. Note that the black and red rows of pins are not used, power is provided to the servos through the power distribution harness. Click for larger image.]]
* Connect the 12 servos to power distribution harness connectors marked with port numbers corresponding to the servo marking (0 to 11). Make sure the signal wire (yellow) is oriented correctly and matches the yellow plastic header pin.
* Connect the groups of four white wires which are marked with servo port numbers to the Servo Driver yellow pins, matching the Servo Driver pin number to the port numbers written on the 4-pin Dupont connectors coming out of the power distribution harness.
* Connect one of the +5V RED regulated BEC outputs to the RED port 0 pin of the Servo Driver. Connect one of the GND black pins coming out of the BEC to the BLACK port 0 GND pin on the Servo Driver.
* On one short side of the Servo Controller you will find a VCC and V+ pin right next to each other. Use a shunt (small black connector that goes over two pins) to connect those together if one is not already installed. Without this shunt the Servo Driver will not work.
* SDA and SCL go to A4 and A5 on the Nano, respectively.



== Building the Gamepad ==
The gamepad for Max The Megapod is identical to the Gamepad for Vorpal The Hexapod.

Please see instructions on [[Vorpal_The_Hexapod_Building_Instructions#Building_the_Gamepadd|the Vorpal Hexapod Gamepad Assembly instructions]].

{{Megapod Quick Links}}

Max The Megapod Assembly Instructions

2021-06-03T14:18:13Z

Vorpalwiki: /* Batteries (not included in kit) */

==BILL OF MATERIALS (BOM) FOR MAX THE MEGAPOD==
===Notes on Sourcing Parts Yourself===
* These instructions assume you have purchased a kit from us. If you are sourcing your own parts, please be aware of the following additional information:
**If you are sourcing your own parts, you need to build the power distribution connector assembly. For diagrams see [[Max The Megapod Battery/Switch Construction]]. This will take about 2 hours of soldering work.
**Also see important information on that page if you are sourcing your own BEC.
**If you are sourcing your own Bluetooth modules, please be aware that you will need to configure them to auto-pair and to have a UART speed of 38400 BAUD. Every module brand's firmware is a bit different so it's not possible for us to give you universal instructions on how to program them. We assume that if you source your own parts you are familiar with how to configure Bluetooth modules using AT-commands. (You can find tutorials online or videos on youtube, but like we said, different modules may not exactly match instructions you will find so be prepared to fiddle around a bit). Please do not ask our customer support for help on this topic. We sell pre-configured modules that auto-pair on boot for a very reasonable price.
**If you are sourcing your own Arduino Nano modules, you will need to flash the robot and gamepad code on them. You can find the code at the [https://github.com/vorpalrobotics/VorpalHexapod Vorpal Hexapod Repo on Github]. Note: there is no difference in software between the large and small versions of the hexapod.
* Please be very careful about substitutions. You might think you can substitute cheaper parts for the ones specified here. Don't bet on it. Walking robots are extremely difficult to design and we've chosen each part for a good reason. For example, if you try to substitute cheaper servos you are very likely to find that they don't provide enough torque for the robot to stand up, or they wear out within minutes due to being overstressed. If you substitute a different battery voltage, you'll either fry the servos or they won't have enough torque. It took 1000 hours of work to design the smaller hexapod on which this one is based, then another 500 hours to get the big version working well.
* Full kits of parts as well as individual parts are available on [http://vorpal-robotics-store.myshopify.com The Vorpal Robotics Store]. If you are new to Arduino and robotics we strongly recommend you purchase a kit instead of trying to self-source parts. The kits cut 3 to 4 hours off the build time, bringing it to typically 2 to 2.5 hours. The kits have all soldering done, programs are already loaded on the Nanos, Bluetooth modules are properly configured, and you know you have all the right parts to work together. About half the people who self-source parts end up buying parts that are incorrect or are so cheap that they will quickly fail (and they end up spending more money and far more time than if they had simply bought a kit to start with!)

=== ROBOT BOM ===
[[File:Choking-Hazard-Image.jpg|right|350px]]
[[File:PinchPoint-Warning.JPG|right|350px]]
* ''Electronics:''
** Passive Piezo Buzzer module and 3 wire cable (see image) [[File:Passive-Piezo-Buzzer-Module.jpg|right|thumb|Passive Piezo Buzzer Module]]
** Arduino Nano, 5V, 16 mHz, ATMEGA328 or similar (marked RM in our kit to indicate it is pre-loaded with megapod robot software)
** Rotary potentiometer, 10K Ohms, 6mm shaft diameter, with 3 wires pre-soldered. Also, matching dial cap and nut. If you are self-sourcing see our instructions: [[Max The Megapod Battery/Switch Construction]]
** 1 x HC05 BlueTooth Module with 4 x F-F jumper wires for making connections (Note: the HC05 has six pins but only four are used in this project. Also, this is in the Gamepad Parts bag if you purchase our kit.)
** 1 x Servo Controller module (Adafruit 16-channel 12-bit I2C PWM/Servo driver or Adafruit clone) with F-F jumper wires for making connections, plus 1 two-pin shunt tying V+ to VCC
** 12 x MG958 servo motors and associated servo horns (you will only use the single-arm horn). NOTE: our kits come with one extra servo as a spare, there are 13 in the kit but only 12 are needed. We recommend 25T size metal horns for the knee servos (the ones that insert into the legs). We provide six metal horns with our kits as of November 2019. The plastic horns will wear out on the knee servos after about 4 to 8 hours of use and their splines will strip.
** 1 x Power distribution wiring harness with DPST on/off switch, Fuse, Tamiya battery connector, 3A 5V BEC, and servo extension connectors. If you are self-sourcing see our wiring instructions: [[Max The Megapod Battery/Switch Construction|Circuit Diagrams]].
* ''3D Printed Parts:''
** 3 Robot Base Parts and bottom plate to hold the parts together.
** 3 Robot Base Covers (used to enclose wiring inside the Base).
** 4 Cap parts which screw together to form the cap of the robot.
** 6 x Legs
** 12 x Servo Stops. These parts hold the servos in their compartments both in the base and the legs.
** 12 x Leg Hinge halves with Leg Hinge Rings. The rings stop layer separation issues under stress.
** 1 x Electronics Caddy to hold nano and servo controller
** 2 x Eye/glasses Decoration
* Screws and Fasteners
** 12 x button head screw, M3 x 12mm long with M3 toothed lock washers (for servo horns)
** 6 x #6-32 x 7/8" socket head screws (to fasten together "bowl" of base and cap parts).
** 3 x #6-32 x 5/8" socket head screws (to fasten top of cap onto cap bowl)
** 12 x #6-32 x 1.5" socket head cap screws for securing servos in their sockets.
** 2 x #6-32 1” socket head screw (for accessory port)
** 2 x #6-32 0.75" socket head screw (for accessory port)
** 2 x #6 wingnut (for accessory port)
** 19 x #6 nut
** 19 x #6 toothed lock washer
** 9 x #6-32 7/8” socket head screws with lock washers (for fastening Base and Cap sections together)
* ''Miscellaneous:''
** 12 x 608 Skate Bearings
** 8 x 18mm diameter ceramic magnet, approximately 5mm thick, north pole marked. 6 are for robot top, 2 for eye/glasses decorations
** 1 x T handle hex driver, 2mm, for button head screws.
** 1 x T handle hex driver, 7/64" for socket head screws.
* Tools not included in the kit:
** Needle nose pliers are useful for holding the nuts while assembling BASE and CAP parts.
** Slip-pliers are useful for forcing skate bearings into their press-fit locations on the Leg Hinges
** Hot glue gun and glue sticks for securing magnets. You can also use cyanoacrylate glue (i.e. "super glue") or any glue that works on both plastic and metal.
** If you have an electric screwdriver this will make assembly of the servo stops much faster. You would need a 7/64" hex key attachment.
=== Batteries (not included in kit)===
Max uses a main battery pack consisting of a five-cell NIMH battery pack with a nominal voltage of 6.0 volts and a minimum of 4000 mAh capacity and a full size male Tamiya connector. Max also uses a 9v battery through a 5V regulator to drive the electronics (Arduino, Bluetooth module, Servo driver, etc). A second 9v battery is needed for the gamepad. We recommend rechargeable 9v batteries, they can be NIMN, LI-ON, or NICAD.

Make sure you have a compatible charger for all rechargeable batteries.

For the main battery pack, we recommend 4000 mAh or more, and we recommend a wire gauge on the battery of 18 gauge or less (smaller gauge means thicker wire). A battery we have used with success is this one: [https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003WTSPHG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Dynamite 6.0v 5100 mAh NIMH Battery] although many others are available on the market.

The battery specs should confirm that it can output 5 amps continuously and can handle spikes to 10amps on an intermittent basis (5 seconds maximum). Most NIMH batteries at 4000 mAh or more will fulfill this. (Note: we do not recommend substituting LI-ON batteries for the main pack on the Megapod, as they often cannot supply enough amps).

Many hobby and RC suppliers have cable converters to go from Tamiya connectors to other types (cross, XT60, etc.) so it is possible to use NIMH batteries with other kinds of connector if you can locate or construct a suitable adapter cable.

=== GAMEPAD ===
The gamepad for Max The Megapod is identical to the gamepad for Vorpal The Hexapod. See instructions for the gamepad here: [[Vorpal_The_Hexapod_Building_Instructions#Building_the_Gamepadd|Vorpal The Hexapod Gamepad Assembly instructions]]

==Printing the Plastic Parts==

This section assumes you have basic familiarity with 3D printing and 3D printing terminology. If not, you might want to reference online materials such as youtube videos or information from your 3D printer manufacturer before attempting this project.

===OBTAINING THE STL FILES===
We have posted the STL files our public dropbox folder: [http://tinyurl.com/VORPALFILES VORPAL FILES]. Go to the STL folder, then the GAMEPAD and MEGAPOD folders have the files you need. (The same gamepad is shared among all our hexapod projects).

Please post your builds to places like Thingiverse, pictures to FaceBook, Instagram, etc., and videos of your robot to YouTube! This will help us grow and continue having the resources creating cool new projects for our community.

===MINIMUM PRINTER REQUIREMENTS===
*The bed size should be at least 200mm cube (about 8 inches cube). The largest parts are the megapod Base-1, Base-2, and Base-3 parts, so it is the limiting factor on bed size.
*A heated bed is strongly recommended, especially if you are printing in ABS.
*An enclosure is recommended, especially if printing in ABS.
===AMOUNT OF PLASTIC FILAMENT===
* About 2.5 kg of plastic are needed to print the entire robot and gamepad. This does not include accessories like Joust attachments, etc.
* The amount of plastic used does depend on plastic type and exact print settings though, so your mileage may vary.
===RECOMMENDED PLASTICS===
*ABS, PETG, and PLA all work well. However, because there are some very large parts, ABS may cause you some warping issues if you don't have a heated bed, enclosure, and a printer tuned well for large parts. PLA is generally easier and has fewer issues with corners peeling off the print bed.
*We use eSun PLA PRO for this project and for us it works very well. PLA PRO is a little more flexible and stronger than typical PLA. We have no problems with warping even on the largest parts.
*This project requires less flexibility than the smaller Vorpal The Hexapod project, so ABS is less required for this project.
===PRINTING TIPS===
This project has been finely tuned to make it easy to 3D print. No supports are required for any of the parts (there is a support built into the models for the CAP parts). In some cases you may want to use brims or rafts to help parts adhere to the print surface.

There is some significant bridging with some spans up to 30mm (1.2"). It is important to tune your printer and make sure it can handle the bridging before attempting the large parts. A little sagging is ok and a drip or two can be easily removed, but you need decent ability to bridge. There are bridge testing and calibration models posted on sites like Thingiverse that may help you tune your printer before trying the big parts.

====PRINT SETTINGS====
We print using the following settings on a Lulzbot TAZ 6 with 0.5mm nozzle:
* 0.4 layer thickness (or whatever layer thickness is the largest that will work on your printer)
* 2mm walls (i.e. four perimeters for a 0.5mm nozzle)
* 1.6 mm top and bottom (i.e. four layers at 0.4mm layer height)
* 25% infill
* You can print with thinner layers if your printer does not support 0.4mm layers or if you want a more refined look, it will just take longer. If you have a large nozzle (0.8mm or more) you should be able to go with bigger layers and save a lot of print time. Please report your findings to us at support@vorpalrobotics.com so we can advise future Makers of this project.
====BRIMS AND RAFTS====
* Brims or rafts are recommended for the following hexapod parts: Base, Legs, Cap. This ensures proper bed retention to avoid warping. These parts have relatively little contact area with the print bed, or have certain sections with little contact.
*If you have a very well dialed-in printer and have no issues with warping or corners curling up during prints, you can try them without brims. We don't use brims on anything but we've printed thousands of parts and we keep our printers very well tuned all the time with weekly maintenance and adjustments.
*These parts are large so if you don't use brims and things don't work out you might kill half a roll of plastic ... so maybe just use brims, it only adds a few minutes of cleanup time.
* Brims/rafts are not recommended on any of the other parts. The other parts generally have enough bed surface contact that they will print fine without brims. Your mileage may vary however and it is recommended that you keep a close eye on the first few layers of the print to make sure everything is sticking properly.
* We personally prefer brims over rafts (such as available in Cura and Simplify3D) as they are easy to remove and leave a clean look.
====POST PRINT====
Other than removing brims/rafts and the occasional drip, there is not any special post-processing required after printing. Some of the big bridges might seem a little saggy but generally speaking there's enough tolerance that this won't cause an issue. The biggest bridges are mostly hidden inside the robot so they won't affect cosmetics.

====PRO TIPS====
*Do routine maintenance on your printer before printing the big parts: lubricate rods and lead screws, check bed leveling, replace nozzle if worn, do a calibration print, clean your print surface, etc. A few minutes of preparation will help you nail these prints and make a project you can be very proud of!
*Print the large parts (Base, Cap) at the ''start'' of new spools. The last thing you want is to run out of filament 95% of the way through a big part.
*Print the smallest parts (servo stops, hinge rings, gamepad drawer) near the end of a spool.
*If you have a large format printer, it is tempting to kick off all three Base parts at once and let it run overnight. We would recommend against that--the chances of killing an entire spool of filament due to an overnight power hit or other failure is just not worth it. Take your time, do the big parts one by one. One or two during the day, one overnight. It will all get done soon enough. An extra couple of days won't matter in the long run.

== Building the Robot ==

You will need the following tools:
*Included in the kit:
** 2mm hex key. A 5/64 inch hex key will also work. This is in the Megapod Parts bag.
** 7/64 hex key at least 6" long (150mm). It needs to be long enough to reach screws through access holes in the Base and Cap. This is in the Megapod Parts Bag.
*Not included in the kit:
** Optional: A marker that can write on dark plastic and still be seen, such as Sharpie Metallic or Sharpie Oil markers (white and yellow work great on dark colored plastic, black or blue work well on light colored plastic). This can be used to make raised lettering on the robot and gamepad more visible.
** Optional: Needle nose pliers can be helpful for holding nuts in place while tightening screws.
** Optional: Slip-joint pliers can be helpful for forcing the skate bearings into their press-fit locations on the Leg Hinges
** Optional: An electric screwdriver with a 7/64" hex key attachment will greatly speed up the process of locking the servos in place using the servo stop parts. There are 12 long screws to insert. Do yourself a favor, electric screwdrivers are not expensive these days and are very handy.

===IMPORTANT WARNING: POWERFUL SERVOS MAY INJURE YOU===
The motors on Max the Megapod are very powerful compared to the smaller Vorpal the Hexapod project. It is possible for the leg motions to pinch fingers or even possibly break fingers or cause other injuries. When powering on the Megapod you must keep fingers clear of places where the legs/hips can come together. In case of electrical issues the legs may move unexpectedly. Turning the power off will release the motors. Never let small children play with the megapod or grab at it when it's walking or moving.

If the robot is moving in an out of control manner, use a pencil, book, or rod to hit the power switch, which is large and easy to turn off.

You must at all times take standard precautions that are typical with large robotic projects.

If you are building your own electrical system please do not skimp by skipping adding the fuse to the circuit. This project may draw significant amperage and fuse protection is required.

===Step by Step Instructions===
====STEP 1: Insert accessory port screws in the chassis====
This is easier to do before the Base is assembled into a single part.
* Insert 1" #6-32 socket head screws in the bottom two holes of the accessory port with the head of the screw inside the hexapod, then secure using lock washers and nuts outside. Repeat for the top two accessory holes with shorter 3/4" #6-32 socket head screws. Two wingnuts go on the two lower screws, these will be used to secure accessories such as the Jousting Lance.
<gallery mode=packed>
File:Accessory-Port-Diagram-V2.JPG|The accessory port is considered the "front" of the robot.
File:Accessory-Port-Screws.JPG|Longer socket head screws go on the bottom. Do not overtighten the nuts.
File:Wing-Nuts-Installed.JPG|After installing the nuts, put the wingnuts on the bottom screws. They'll be used later to secure accessories.
</gallery>

====STEP 2: Build the BASE====
* STEP 1A: Take the three outer parts of the base (STL files: Base-1, Base-2, Base-3) and arrange them to form the "bowl" of the base. Make sure the servo numbers are in the right order as you move clockwise around the three parts! It's possible to assemble them in the wrong order if you don't check.
* STEP 1B: There are matching screw holes positioned on little rectangular outcroppings on the inside of the top ring, these require screws to bind the three parts together. Use three 7/8 inch socket head screws, toothed lock washers, and nuts to secure them. There is an access hole in the rim of the robot to allow the hex key to turn the screw. You may need to hold the nut in place using needle-nose pliers. Repeat for all three sections.
<gallery mode=packed heights=250>
File:Base-Exploded-View.JPG|Line up the three main pieces of the base, ensuring the servo numbers are in order.
File:Access-Hole-In-Base.jpg|Small access holes are strategically placed around the base so the hex key can turn the screws to secure the three base pieces.
File:Securing-Base-Sections.jpg|Use the access hole in the Base parts to secure screws that bind the three base parts together.
File:Megapod-Foam-Squares.jpg|Peel the backing off the foam squares that came with the kit and attach them to the bottom of the base. Stack them on top of each other.
</gallery>
* STEP 1C: Take the Base Bottom part and place it inside the base. There is a nub in one place that will only allow it to be inserted in one orientation. Use 5/8" screws in the outer ring of holes in the bottom to secure it to the base. The head of the screw should be on the outside of the robot and nuts should secure the screws on the inside. NOTE: There are six outer ring holes, however you only need three of them (one in each base section) to secure the robot. Early versions of the kit only had three 5/8" screws.
* STEP 1D: Take the foam squares that came in your kit and stick them on the bottom of the robot. (Build up several layers, they stick to each other.) These foam pads will reduce the shock and stress on the robot when it goes down to the floor on certain dance moves. Without these pads, the robot leg servos and body structure may undergo too much stress.

====STEP 3: Install the electrical system in the base====
* STEP 3A: Take the potentiometer and remove its dial cap, then unscrew the nut and set these items aside for now (don't lose them). Push the potentiometer shaft from the inside of the chassis into the hole that is surrounded by the markings "STOP", "TST", etc. The wires coming out of the potentiometer should be pointing down. The little metal nub sticking out of the potentiometer should match with a tiny rectangular hole that is near the marking "TST". Put the retaining nut on the potentiometer, hand tighten first and then give it just another half turn or so with pliers if desired. Turn the knob all the way counter-clockwise, then insert the knob so it points to the letter "O" in the word "STOP".
* STEP 3B: Take the large DPST on/off switch (which is attached to the battery holder and power distribution assembly) and thread the switch wires from the inside through the gap at the bottom of the switch hole (see picture). Carefully push the wires one by one through the slot below the switch hole. Once all the wires are through, push the switch into the switch hole. It should be oriented with the "1" to the right. Press carefully into the hole, it should snap firmly in place.
** If the fit is too tight to get the switch in place, lightly sanding or filing the hole to make it a tiny bit larger should work.
<gallery mode=packed heights=200>
File:Switch-Insert-1.jpg|Thread the switch and its wires through the Base, there is an opening under the switch hole.
File:Switch-Insert-2.jpg|Bring the wires up through the small gap below the switch hole. Be careful with the large wires, they require some pressure or some flexing of the plastic to get through.
File:Switch-Insert-3.jpg|All the wires are now coming through the switch hole.
File:Switch-Insert-4.jpg|Press the switch into the hole, it should snap into place. The "1" should be to the right.
</gallery>

====STEP 4: Insert servos in the chassis====
* Next, insert the servo into the chassis as shown in the diagrams below. As you insert the servo into the chassis, slowly press it straight into place until it fully seats. Use a servo stopper and one 1.5 inch #6 socket screw to secure the servos in place. Use the hole nearest to the front of the servo. NOTE: There are two holes in the Servo Stop but we have found that one screw is enough to hold it. The second hole could be used if you find that the plastic you use tears through the hole. We have not seen this but we added the second hole just in case.
<gallery mode=packed heights=250>
File:Servo-in-Base-2.jpg|Insert each servo with the wire coming out away from the robot as shown here. Press in completely.
File:Servo-in-Base-3.jpg|Insert a servo stopper (shown in red) and secure with one 1.5" screw in the hole nearest the front (the servo shaft and horn is in the front). Thread the wire into the body of the robot through the hole as shown.
</gallery>

====STEP 5: Insert the servos in the Legs====
The technique is very similar to inserting the servo into the chassis.
*Insert the servo straight into the leg socket so that the wire is coming out of the servo facing away from the plastic leg and the face of the servo with the shaft and servo horn goes into the open faced side of the leg, as shown in the diagram.
*Secure the servo in place with a servo stopper and one 1.5 inch screw as you did with the hip servos in the base. NOTE: There are two holes in the stopper but we have found that one screw is enough to hold it. The second hole could be used if you find that the plastic you use tears through the hole. We have not seen this but we added the second hole just in case.
*The servos in the legs are called the "knee" servos. Each leg has a higher number on it, this is the knee number, they run from 6 to 11. Again, write this number on the black connector at the end of the servo wire. PRO TIP: For 6 and 9, underline the number so you don't read them upside down!
<gallery mode=packed heights=200>
File:Servo-Insert-Leg-v2.png|Insert Servos in Legs
File:Servo-Leg-Inserted-v2.png|Push until fully seated
File:Servo-Stopper-In-Leg.jpg|Use the servo stopper and two screws to lock the servo in place
</gallery>

*Thread each leg servo wire into the bottom wire guide slot on the chassis. Each leg servo should be matched with a hip servo plus 6. The legs are marked with the hip number near the top and the knee number below that. For example, the leg marked 6 should be threaded through the wire guide on hip servo 0, leg 7 goes with hip 1, leg 8 goes with hip 2, etc. Add 6 to the hip number to get the leg number.

====STEP 6: Plug in the Servos====
Thread the servo wires into the chassis using the routing holes, as you did with the hip servos. The power distribution harness has marked servo extension sockets for each servo. Each hip servo is marked on the BASE showing its number. the knee servo for each hip is numbered six higher than its corresponding hip. For example, hip servo number 3 will be attached to knee servo number 9, because 3+6=9.

When plugging the servos in, make sure you match the light yellow servo wire to the white servo extension wire, and the dark brown servo wire should match with the black servo extension wire.

====STEP 7: Make Robot Electrical Connections====

Now use the diagram below in the electrical section to make the rest of the robot's electrical connections. You'll be using the Robot Arduino Nano (marked "R"), the Servo Driver, Bluetooth Module marked "S", the buzzer, and a bunch of jumper wires. Make sure you use the longer jumper wires for the SDA and SCL connections between the Nano and the Servo Driver.

====STEP 8: Assemble the leg hinges====
[[File:Servo-Bracket-Alignment-v1.png|thumb|350px|right|Align the leg hinges as shown here. The bumps (see arrows) should both be near each other when properly aligned. Hold one in each hand with the ends of the U shape between thumb and forefinger.]]
Each leg hinge is composed of two identical U-shaped parts. Take one in each hand and align the two so that the bump (shown in the diagram at the right) are both near each other. Turn one 90 degrees with respect to the other.
*Gently squeeze each piece between thumb and forefinger, which causes the little jaws in the center to open up slightly. Work the two halves together. Keep squeezing harder until the ends slide into place. NOTE: Make sure you printed version V1r2b or later. Earlier versions made it too difficult to squeeze the parts into place. If you printed an earlier version, you may need to trim some plastic using angle cutters to get the parts together.
*If you used PLA and are finding it hard to bend, briefly soaking the pieces in very hot tap water has been reported to make it easier. Take care not to scald yourself, the water does not have to be boiling, just hot from the tap. You only need to dip the ends that will lock over each other, not the parts you will squeeze. Use caution.
*At this stage, you may notice that the parts are loosely clamped on each other (this depends on plastic used and whether your printer over- or under-extrudes). Don't worry! When you place the leg hinges over a servo, the servo will spread it apart and they will lock together tightly.
*Insert a 608 skate bearing into the socket on one side of the leg hinges. Pliers may be necessary to press them into place. Make sure you clean up any drips inside the recessed area for the skate bearing before attempting to insert the bearings.

====STEP 9: Attach Leg Hinges====
The leg hinges connect the hips to the knees. They only go on one way. If you made sure to align the bumps when assembling the leg hinges, this will result in correct orientation of all legs.
*First place the end that matches the servo horn on about halfway. Make sure the servo horn slides under the little pocket at the end of recessed area that accepts the horn.
*Very slightly bend the U shaped piece while pulling the skate bearing side over the hemispherical bump on the other side of the servo holding area. It's a little easier to do the knees (servos mounted to legs) first, followed by the hips (servos on base).
*NOTE: It will be a tight fit, but it should not be excessively difficult to push the hinge over the hemispherical bearing. If you find you are struggling, that means the hinges are too tight. This may affect walking. This can be due to the kind of plastic you used or how your printer is adjusted. You may need to gently spread the two legs of the U shape by hand before putting the hinge on the robot. Be careful of course not to break the hinge.
*When completed, double check to make sure the servo horn went into the covered pocket at the end of its recessed area. This pocket keeps the horn from slipping out of the hinge during stressful operations.

====STEP 10: Enclose the electronics modules in their caddies====

Now things look pretty messy with all those wires hanging loose, let's clean it up by stowing the Arduino Nano, Bluetooth module and Servo Driver in their caddies. The caddies will keep them safe by making sure they can't short out against each other or touch screws, etc.
* '''STEP 10A: Insert Caddy Bars''' Insert the electronics caddy bars as shown in the diagrams below. Notice carefully how they are inserted. Don't insert them upside down, the little hump should be facing inward toward the caddy. You may need to slightly squeeze the forked section at the end to work it into the hole. Once inside, it may be difficult to remove because it will snap into place, so be sure you're putting it in the right way.
<gallery mode=packed heights=300>
File:Insert-Caddy-Bar-1.jpg|Insertion of the caddy bar into the Nano caddy. Notice the orientation, don't put the bar in upside down. The same technique is used for the Servo Driver Caddy.
</gallery>
* '''STEP 10B: Insert the Arduino Nano into its caddy''' Carefully insert the Nano as shown, making sure you don't pull out any of the wires. You may need to wiggle the caddy bar from side to side a bit so that components can slide past it during insertion. Notice that the end of the Nano that has the USB port must go in last.

<gallery mode=packed heights=250>
File:Insert-Nano-In-Caddy-1.jpg|Insert the Nano in the orientation shown.
File:Insert-Nano-In-Caddy-2.jpg|You may need to wiggle it a bit or press on the bar to work it into place.
File:Insert-Nano-In-Caddy-3.jpg|Note how the USB port is accessible through the top after full insertion.
</gallery>

* '''STEP 10C: Insert the Servo Driver into its caddy''' Carefully insert the Servo Driver as shown, making sure you don't pull out any of the wires. You may need to wiggle the caddy bar from side to side a bit so that components can slide past it during insertion. Notice that the end of the Servo controller with wires sticking out of it must go in last.

<gallery mode=packed heights=200>
File:Insert-ServoDriver-In-Caddy-1.jpg|Insert the Servo Driver in the orientation shown.
File:Insert-ServoDriver-In-Caddy-2.jpg|You may need to wiggle it a bit or press on the bar to work it into place.
File:Insert-ServoDriver-In-Caddy-3.jpg|Note that the end with the wires goes in last.
</gallery>

* '''STEP 10D: Insert the HC05 Bluetooth Module''' The diagrams here do not show the wires to make them easier to visualize. The HC05 Bluetooth module with a name beginning with "S" should be used for the robot. For example, the label will read something like "VORP S2944" (the number will differ). The one marked "M" will be used for the gamepad. Slide the HC05 into the side drawer as shown. When inserting, be careful not to pull out the wires, which will be a little tight. Work the wires into the little space provided so they stay clear of the robot's cap when it gets screwed on later.

<gallery mode=packed heights=250>
File:Insert-HC05-in-Caddy-1.jpg|Insert the HC05 into the side drawer of the Nano Caddy as shown.
File:Insert-HC05-in-Caddy-2.jpg|When fully inserted, the indicator light will still be visible through the small oval.
File:Insert-HC05-in-Caddy-3.jpg|The wires should be tucked into the little cavity near the pins of the HC05.
</gallery>

====STEP 11: Power up!====
Make sure the on/off switch is off, and the knob is turned to STOP. Insert batteries and power on the robot using the on/off switch. You should hear a beep, a pause, then a second beep. The servos should all twitch into position. If the robot does not move at all, immediately turn the switch off and check your connections again. If some of the servos don't move then gently push them with power off to see if you can free them up. If they still won't move, try pushing them with power applied, but turn off the power within 30 seconds if they're locked up. If you can't get the servo to move it will need to be replaced.

[[File:Servo-Horn-Orientation.png|thumb|right|The servo horn should come straight out from the body at a 90 degree angle as shown here. Do not turn the servo shaft by hand until after it has moved under power!]]

====STEP 12: Insert Servo Horns====
The servo horns are all at random angles right now due to the servo pre-check. In this step we'll make them point in the right direction. The knee servos are not at 90 degrees when the knob is all the way counter clockwise, rather they are at a 30 degree standing angle.

We need to get them to 90 degrees so its easy to align the servo horn, and this is done by going into "Adjust Mode". Turn the knob very slightly clockwise until you hear a beep, then stop. After about one second you will see all the knee servos twitch. This is "adjust servo horn mode". All servos (knees and hips) are now at their halfway point, 90 degrees.

Now you need to take each single arm servo horn and carefully insert it on the shaft so that it is sticking straight out as shown in the figure. You will not always be able to make the horn come totally straight out. This is because there are only 22 little groves (splines) in each shaft, meaning you can in general only come within about 8 degrees of being at a perfect 90 degree angle. This amount of error is acceptable for now, just get it as close as you can. Later we'll use Trim Mode to make fine adjustments.

====STEP 13: Test Knee Positions====
Turn the knob fully counter clockwise (to STOP) and the robot will go into "stand still" mode. Place it on a level surface such as a table top. Do all of the legs touch the ground? If one or more legs don't touch the ground, you need to adjust the servo horn on the knee a little bit so it does touch. Gently pull off the servo bracket. Pull the servo horn off, and put it back on just a little bit moved so the leg would move closer to the ground. Put the servo bracket back on, and see how it looks. Do this until all legs are at least slightly touching the ground. Again, you can't necessarily be perfect due to the 8 degree increments the servo horns can be moved. But you should be able to be close enough that all legs at least slightly touch the ground.

====STEP 14: Insert Servo Screws====
Now that the legs are adjusted, you can insert the M3x12 screws (with M3 lock washers) into the servo horns to lock them in place. Note that you will NOT be using the screws that were in the little bag the servos came in, you'll be using the separate pack of screws, which are longer than the ones in the servo bag. Do not overtighten these screws, as you could possibly crack the servo brackets. Just turn the screws until you start to feel resistance, then turn a quarter turn more and stop.

====STEP 14: Test the Servos====
*'''STEP 14A: Using TST Mode'''
**To test whether every servo is working, put the robot on something that will lift its legs off the table top, but won't interfere with the legs (a small box, etc.).
**Start with the knob on STOP, then slowly turn it clockwise. You'll hear one beep (Adjust mode), then a second beep (Test mode). Stop turning and the robot will go into "individual servo test mode". In this mode, every hip servo will move, one by one. When all the hips have moved, every leg will move, one by one. You should see every servo move, in order. If some don't move, check your connections. A common error is to plug a servo connector into the servo controller backwards (i.e. the brown wire is matched with the yellow pin instead of the black pin). If the servos do not move in a sensible order, that probably means you plugged a couple of servos into the wrong sockets in the electrical harness.

*'''STEP 14B: Test Using Demo Mode'''
**Ok, everything looks good, so time for a full test. Turn the knob to STOP, then put the robot on the floor, somewhere that has at least a few feet of room in each direction. (Caution: it's tempting to do this on a table top, but unless you have a huge table this is not advisable, Max will run pretty fast at some points during the demo.)
**Turn the knob to DEMO, and about one second later the robot will go through a series of movements to demonstrate some of the things it can do. The full demo only takes about 30 seconds, then repeats. Here, you are looking for the robot to, for example, be able to get back up off the floor after doing some of its dance moves.
**If the robot struggles to get off the floor, you may have a battery that is not fully charged, or there may be drips or other obstructions stopping some legs from moving fully. See the [[Vorpal Combat_Hexapod Troubleshooting Guide|Trouble Shooting Guide]] for more information about different kinds of issues that can occur. That guide was written for the small robot, but most of the things that can go wrong with Max the Megapod are identical to the things that can go wrong with Vorpal The Hexapod.

====STEP 15: Store electronics and wires in the Base====
Carefully stow the caddies into the base, using any available convenient space. Arrange the servo and other wires so they don't cross any screw holes. The three Base Cover parts can be used to secure everything, however you may not want to put in more than one screw each at this point, until the robot is more fully tested. Be sure the two battery connectors come through the holes provided for them in the Cover parts.
<gallery mode=packed heights=250>
File:All-Electronics-Inserted-In-Base.jpg|Carefully stow the caddies into the base, being careful not to pull out any wires. Press servo wires into place too, make sure they don't overlap any screw holes.
File:Base-Covers-3.jpg|Place the three covers in place. It is not necessary to screw them down at this point, you may want to wait until the robot is more fully tested. We normally just put in one screw on each component at this point--this makes it easy to get back into the electronics if something needs to be checked.
</gallery>

====STEP 16: Assemble the Cap====
*'''STEP 16A: Assemble the Four Cap Parts'''
**First assemble the three large pieces after removing the support coming out of the center. Be aware that there is a correct ordering to them, the two flaps that stick out near the bottom need to be opposite each other so the cap can slot into the Base and lock in place. Use 7/8" screws to secure the three parts together as shown. There are access holes around the rim that allow the hex key to reach the screws. Use nuts and locking washers to secure the screws.
**Secure the top of the cap onto the bottom three pieces using three 5/8" #6 socket screws and their associated nuts and toothed lock washers.
<gallery mode=packed heights=250>
File:Cap-Exploded.JPG|Arrangement of the four Cap parts. Note that this diagram shows the support in place, this should actually be removed prior to assembly.
File:CAP-Assembly-order.JPG|Make sure the two flaps at the rim are opposite each other when ordering the three main parts.
</gallery>
* '''STEP 16B: Put magnets in the Cap''' Insert a magnet in each magnet holder in the cap. The magnets are marked with a dot on the North pole side. It is important that this dot be showing after installation. In other words, insert the magnet with the non-dot side down. The magnet is about 2mm smaller in diameter than the hole, so you will need to use hot glue (or some other kind of glue that works on metal and plastic) to secure it.
* '''STEP 16C: Decorate''' If desired, use a permanent marker to color the Vorpal "V" on top of the Cap. Oil markers work well. On light colors of plastic a black permanent marker will also work.
* '''STEP 16D: Put Cap on the Hexapod'''
**Screw the cap on the robot by lining up the tabs with the matching slots in the rim of the base. Turn the cap clockwise to lock it in place. IMPORTANT: Do not press down on the robot to insert the cap when the robot is under power standing on its legs! You can damage the leg motors by doing this. It is best to turn the robot off, and either support the bottom of the Base with one hand and press the Cap on with the other, or set the Base down on the table top or floor with legs out to the sides so they don't take pressure.
**If the cap is too loose and swivels while the robot moves, this can be fixed by putting a bit of tape on the cap's flaps to make them a little thicker. The tightness of the cap depends a lot on printer settings, over- or under-extrusion, etc.

====STEP 17: Warning Label====
There are two a self-stick choking hazard warning labels in the hexapod parts bag. Peel the backing off one of them and place it on the bottom of the robot, near the center. Retain the second label for the gamepad.

==== Step 18: Trimming the Servos ====
When you assembled the servo horns onto the servos, you probably were not able to get them all to come out exactly at a 90 degree angle. That's not your fault: the servo horns only have 22 possible positions in which they can be installed, so at best you can come within plus or minus 8 degrees of perfection.

Now that you have the gamepad working, you can make fine adjustments to the servo positions using "Trim Mode". In this special gamepad mode, you can adjust all the servos. These adjustments are saved in the robot's EEPROM, which is memory on the Nano that retains data even when powered off. So, you only need to trim once.

Complete instructions on how to use trim mode are in the wiki page: [[Vorpal The Hexapod Trim Mode Guide]]. That guide was written for the smaller robot, but the instructions are identical for Max the Megapod.

NOTE: although this step is optional, it is recommended because your robot will walk straighter and all the servos will share equally in lifting the robot's weight, which will make them last longer.

====Step 19: Assembling Eye Decorations====
Glue a magnet into the magnet hole on both sets of eyes. The magnet should have the marked side face down, not showing.

You can use hot glue, "superglue" or any other kind of glue that works on plastic and metal.

==Electrical Connections: Robot==

===NOTES ON JUMPER WIRES===

====Wire Lengths====
There are two different lengths of female-female Dupont jumper wires used to make most connections. The longer ones (20cm) are only used for the Hexapod's accessory port connections. The shorter ones are used for all the connections on the Gamepad and all the connections on the Hexapod between the Arduino Nano, Servo controller and Bluetooth module.

====Wire Color Conventions====

Please follow these conventions when selecting wire colors:
* For +5V, Vin, and similar positive voltage connections, use either RED or ORANGE.
* For GND and other negative electrical connections, use BLACK or BROWN.
* For the connectors that sit at the mouth of the accessory port (used for optional sensors) colors are suggested below in the instructions. By following these suggestions you will make your life easier when connecting sensors!
* For all other connections, you can use any color you want, it's arbitrary.

====If Jumper Wires Are Too Loose====
Sometimes you will find a wire whose connector does not grip the pin well enough. It might fall off very easily or just by gravity alone. If that happens, you have a few options:
* There are extra wires in your kit. If you find a wire that's too loose, just use a different wire.
* Using the hex key, you can put the jumper housing on a flat surface then press on the metal showing through the plastic connector, which will tighten up the jumper wire's grip. Don't go too overboard on pressing though or you might make it too hard to insert.
* Alternatively, you could use electrical tape after inserting all the wires on a module (such as the Nano) to effectively attach together all the little plastic female connector housings. In that way, the connectors that do grip will help hold in the ones that are too loose. Some people also like using hot glue for this purpose. (Personally, I don't like using hot glue, as it makes it harder to change connections if you hooked something up incorrectly.)

===NANO PIN CONNECTIONS===
[[File:Megapod-Nano-Connections-v1.JPG|thumb|600px|right|Diagram of Nano connections for the Hexapod. Jumpers marked AP are routed to the Accessory Port for use with add-ons like sensors. Click for larger image.]]
* ''Digital IO Pins:''
** D0, D1 are reserved because they are used for uploading programs to the robot, so nothing will be connected there.
** D2, D3 No connection.
** D4 Buzzer Signal (white wire)
** D5 through D13 No connection. These pins are reserved for future expansion.

* ''Analog Pins:''
** A0 Potentiometer signal (white wire)
** A1 Potentiometer Power (red wire)
** A2 Potentiometer Ground (black wire)
** A3 No connection.
** A4 Servo Controller SDA
** A5 Servo Controller SCL
** A6, A7 No connection.

* ''Power Pins:''
** +5V pin on Nano connects to any of the +5V RED wires coming from the BEC on the power distribution harness.
** GND pin on Nano connects to any of the GND BLACK wires coming from the BEC on the power distribution harness.

===Servo Driver Power Pins===
* Port 0 RED pin on the Servo Driver connects to any of the +5V RED wires coming from the BEC on the power distribution harness.
* Port 0 BLACK GND pin on the Servo Driver connects to any of the GND BLACK wires coming from the BEC on the power distribution harness.

=== Bluetooth Module Power ===
* +5V on HC05 connects to any RED Dupont connector coming off the BEC.
* GND on HC05 connects to any BLACK Dupont connector coming off the BEC.

=== Buzzer Power ===
* Plug the buzzer into the unused port 15 on the servo driver, making sure the red and black wires on the buzzer power match the red and black rows of pins on the servo driver.

=== Servo Driver ===
[[File:Megapod-ServoDriverConnections.jpg|thumb|600px|right|Diagram of Servo Controller pins you will use in this project. Each servo motor has a 3 wire connector that should be plugged into the corresponding servo number extension connector in the power distribution harness. The white wires coming out of the harness in groups of four should be connected to the yellow line or ports, matching the number ranges to port numbers. Note that the black and red rows of pins are not used, power is provided to the servos through the power distribution harness. Click for larger image.]]
* Connect the 12 servos to power distribution harness connectors marked with port numbers corresponding to the servo marking (0 to 11). Make sure the signal wire (yellow) is oriented correctly and matches the yellow plastic header pin.
* Connect the groups of four white wires which are marked with servo port numbers to the Servo Driver yellow pins, matching the Servo Driver pin number to the port numbers written on the 4-pin Dupont connectors coming out of the power distribution harness.
* Connect one of the +5V RED regulated BEC outputs to the RED port 0 pin of the Servo Driver. Connect one of the GND black pins coming out of the BEC to the BLACK port 0 GND pin on the Servo Driver.
* On one short side of the Servo Controller you will find a VCC and V+ pin right next to each other. Use a shunt (small black connector that goes over two pins) to connect those together if one is not already installed. Without this shunt the Servo Driver will not work.
* SDA and SCL go to A4 and A5 on the Nano, respectively.



== Building the Gamepad ==
The gamepad for Max The Megapod is identical to the Gamepad for Vorpal The Hexapod.

Please see instructions on [[Vorpal_The_Hexapod_Building_Instructions#Building_the_Gamepadd|the Vorpal Hexapod Gamepad Assembly instructions]].

{{Megapod Quick Links}}

Max The Megapod Assembly Instructions

2021-06-03T14:14:58Z

Vorpalwiki: /* ROBOT BOM */

==BILL OF MATERIALS (BOM) FOR MAX THE MEGAPOD==
===Notes on Sourcing Parts Yourself===
* These instructions assume you have purchased a kit from us. If you are sourcing your own parts, please be aware of the following additional information:
**If you are sourcing your own parts, you need to build the power distribution connector assembly. For diagrams see [[Max The Megapod Battery/Switch Construction]]. This will take about 2 hours of soldering work.
**Also see important information on that page if you are sourcing your own BEC.
**If you are sourcing your own Bluetooth modules, please be aware that you will need to configure them to auto-pair and to have a UART speed of 38400 BAUD. Every module brand's firmware is a bit different so it's not possible for us to give you universal instructions on how to program them. We assume that if you source your own parts you are familiar with how to configure Bluetooth modules using AT-commands. (You can find tutorials online or videos on youtube, but like we said, different modules may not exactly match instructions you will find so be prepared to fiddle around a bit). Please do not ask our customer support for help on this topic. We sell pre-configured modules that auto-pair on boot for a very reasonable price.
**If you are sourcing your own Arduino Nano modules, you will need to flash the robot and gamepad code on them. You can find the code at the [https://github.com/vorpalrobotics/VorpalHexapod Vorpal Hexapod Repo on Github]. Note: there is no difference in software between the large and small versions of the hexapod.
* Please be very careful about substitutions. You might think you can substitute cheaper parts for the ones specified here. Don't bet on it. Walking robots are extremely difficult to design and we've chosen each part for a good reason. For example, if you try to substitute cheaper servos you are very likely to find that they don't provide enough torque for the robot to stand up, or they wear out within minutes due to being overstressed. If you substitute a different battery voltage, you'll either fry the servos or they won't have enough torque. It took 1000 hours of work to design the smaller hexapod on which this one is based, then another 500 hours to get the big version working well.
* Full kits of parts as well as individual parts are available on [http://vorpal-robotics-store.myshopify.com The Vorpal Robotics Store]. If you are new to Arduino and robotics we strongly recommend you purchase a kit instead of trying to self-source parts. The kits cut 3 to 4 hours off the build time, bringing it to typically 2 to 2.5 hours. The kits have all soldering done, programs are already loaded on the Nanos, Bluetooth modules are properly configured, and you know you have all the right parts to work together. About half the people who self-source parts end up buying parts that are incorrect or are so cheap that they will quickly fail (and they end up spending more money and far more time than if they had simply bought a kit to start with!)

=== ROBOT BOM ===
[[File:Choking-Hazard-Image.jpg|right|350px]]
[[File:PinchPoint-Warning.JPG|right|350px]]
* ''Electronics:''
** Passive Piezo Buzzer module and 3 wire cable (see image) [[File:Passive-Piezo-Buzzer-Module.jpg|right|thumb|Passive Piezo Buzzer Module]]
** Arduino Nano, 5V, 16 mHz, ATMEGA328 or similar (marked RM in our kit to indicate it is pre-loaded with megapod robot software)
** Rotary potentiometer, 10K Ohms, 6mm shaft diameter, with 3 wires pre-soldered. Also, matching dial cap and nut. If you are self-sourcing see our instructions: [[Max The Megapod Battery/Switch Construction]]
** 1 x HC05 BlueTooth Module with 4 x F-F jumper wires for making connections (Note: the HC05 has six pins but only four are used in this project. Also, this is in the Gamepad Parts bag if you purchase our kit.)
** 1 x Servo Controller module (Adafruit 16-channel 12-bit I2C PWM/Servo driver or Adafruit clone) with F-F jumper wires for making connections, plus 1 two-pin shunt tying V+ to VCC
** 12 x MG958 servo motors and associated servo horns (you will only use the single-arm horn). NOTE: our kits come with one extra servo as a spare, there are 13 in the kit but only 12 are needed. We recommend 25T size metal horns for the knee servos (the ones that insert into the legs). We provide six metal horns with our kits as of November 2019. The plastic horns will wear out on the knee servos after about 4 to 8 hours of use and their splines will strip.
** 1 x Power distribution wiring harness with DPST on/off switch, Fuse, Tamiya battery connector, 3A 5V BEC, and servo extension connectors. If you are self-sourcing see our wiring instructions: [[Max The Megapod Battery/Switch Construction|Circuit Diagrams]].
* ''3D Printed Parts:''
** 3 Robot Base Parts and bottom plate to hold the parts together.
** 3 Robot Base Covers (used to enclose wiring inside the Base).
** 4 Cap parts which screw together to form the cap of the robot.
** 6 x Legs
** 12 x Servo Stops. These parts hold the servos in their compartments both in the base and the legs.
** 12 x Leg Hinge halves with Leg Hinge Rings. The rings stop layer separation issues under stress.
** 1 x Electronics Caddy to hold nano and servo controller
** 2 x Eye/glasses Decoration
* Screws and Fasteners
** 12 x button head screw, M3 x 12mm long with M3 toothed lock washers (for servo horns)
** 6 x #6-32 x 7/8" socket head screws (to fasten together "bowl" of base and cap parts).
** 3 x #6-32 x 5/8" socket head screws (to fasten top of cap onto cap bowl)
** 12 x #6-32 x 1.5" socket head cap screws for securing servos in their sockets.
** 2 x #6-32 1” socket head screw (for accessory port)
** 2 x #6-32 0.75" socket head screw (for accessory port)
** 2 x #6 wingnut (for accessory port)
** 19 x #6 nut
** 19 x #6 toothed lock washer
** 9 x #6-32 7/8” socket head screws with lock washers (for fastening Base and Cap sections together)
* ''Miscellaneous:''
** 12 x 608 Skate Bearings
** 8 x 18mm diameter ceramic magnet, approximately 5mm thick, north pole marked. 6 are for robot top, 2 for eye/glasses decorations
** 1 x T handle hex driver, 2mm, for button head screws.
** 1 x T handle hex driver, 7/64" for socket head screws.
* Tools not included in the kit:
** Needle nose pliers are useful for holding the nuts while assembling BASE and CAP parts.
** Slip-pliers are useful for forcing skate bearings into their press-fit locations on the Leg Hinges
** Hot glue gun and glue sticks for securing magnets. You can also use cyanoacrylate glue (i.e. "super glue") or any glue that works on both plastic and metal.
** If you have an electric screwdriver this will make assembly of the servo stops much faster. You would need a 7/64" hex key attachment.
=== Batteries (not included in kit)===
Max uses a five-cell NIMH battery pack with a nominal voltage of 6.0 volts, and it uses a standard 9v battery through a 5V regulator to drive the electronics (Arduino, Bluetooth module, Servo driver, etc). A second 9v battery is needed for the gamepad. We recommend rechargeable batteries for the 9v, they can be NIMN, LI-ON, or NICAD.

Make sure you have a compatible charger for all rechargeable batteries.

Our electrical system requires a full sized Tamiya male connector on the NIMH battery pack (there is a matching female Tamiya on the robot). We recommend 4000 mAh or more, and we recommend a wire gauge on the battery of 18 gauge or less (smaller gauge means thicker wire). A battery we have used with success is this one: [https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003WTSPHG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Dynamite 6.0v 5100 mAh NIMH Battery] although many others are available on the market.

The battery specs should confirm that it can output 5 amps continuously and can handle spikes to 10amps on an intermittent basis (5 seconds maximum). Most NIMH batteries at 4000 mAh or more will fulfill this. (Note: we do not recommend LI-ON batteries for the main pack on the Megapod, as they often cannot supply enough amps).

Many hobby and RC suppliers have cable converters to go from Tamiya connectors to other types (cross, XT60, etc.) so it is possible to use NIMH batteries with other kinds of connector if you can locate or construct a suitable adapter cable.

=== GAMEPAD ===
The gamepad for Max The Megapod is identical to the gamepad for Vorpal The Hexapod. See instructions for the gamepad here: [[Vorpal_The_Hexapod_Building_Instructions#Building_the_Gamepadd|Vorpal The Hexapod Gamepad Assembly instructions]]

==Printing the Plastic Parts==

This section assumes you have basic familiarity with 3D printing and 3D printing terminology. If not, you might want to reference online materials such as youtube videos or information from your 3D printer manufacturer before attempting this project.

===OBTAINING THE STL FILES===
We have posted the STL files our public dropbox folder: [http://tinyurl.com/VORPALFILES VORPAL FILES]. Go to the STL folder, then the GAMEPAD and MEGAPOD folders have the files you need. (The same gamepad is shared among all our hexapod projects).

Please post your builds to places like Thingiverse, pictures to FaceBook, Instagram, etc., and videos of your robot to YouTube! This will help us grow and continue having the resources creating cool new projects for our community.

===MINIMUM PRINTER REQUIREMENTS===
*The bed size should be at least 200mm cube (about 8 inches cube). The largest parts are the megapod Base-1, Base-2, and Base-3 parts, so it is the limiting factor on bed size.
*A heated bed is strongly recommended, especially if you are printing in ABS.
*An enclosure is recommended, especially if printing in ABS.
===AMOUNT OF PLASTIC FILAMENT===
* About 2.5 kg of plastic are needed to print the entire robot and gamepad. This does not include accessories like Joust attachments, etc.
* The amount of plastic used does depend on plastic type and exact print settings though, so your mileage may vary.
===RECOMMENDED PLASTICS===
*ABS, PETG, and PLA all work well. However, because there are some very large parts, ABS may cause you some warping issues if you don't have a heated bed, enclosure, and a printer tuned well for large parts. PLA is generally easier and has fewer issues with corners peeling off the print bed.
*We use eSun PLA PRO for this project and for us it works very well. PLA PRO is a little more flexible and stronger than typical PLA. We have no problems with warping even on the largest parts.
*This project requires less flexibility than the smaller Vorpal The Hexapod project, so ABS is less required for this project.
===PRINTING TIPS===
This project has been finely tuned to make it easy to 3D print. No supports are required for any of the parts (there is a support built into the models for the CAP parts). In some cases you may want to use brims or rafts to help parts adhere to the print surface.

There is some significant bridging with some spans up to 30mm (1.2"). It is important to tune your printer and make sure it can handle the bridging before attempting the large parts. A little sagging is ok and a drip or two can be easily removed, but you need decent ability to bridge. There are bridge testing and calibration models posted on sites like Thingiverse that may help you tune your printer before trying the big parts.

====PRINT SETTINGS====
We print using the following settings on a Lulzbot TAZ 6 with 0.5mm nozzle:
* 0.4 layer thickness (or whatever layer thickness is the largest that will work on your printer)
* 2mm walls (i.e. four perimeters for a 0.5mm nozzle)
* 1.6 mm top and bottom (i.e. four layers at 0.4mm layer height)
* 25% infill
* You can print with thinner layers if your printer does not support 0.4mm layers or if you want a more refined look, it will just take longer. If you have a large nozzle (0.8mm or more) you should be able to go with bigger layers and save a lot of print time. Please report your findings to us at support@vorpalrobotics.com so we can advise future Makers of this project.
====BRIMS AND RAFTS====
* Brims or rafts are recommended for the following hexapod parts: Base, Legs, Cap. This ensures proper bed retention to avoid warping. These parts have relatively little contact area with the print bed, or have certain sections with little contact.
*If you have a very well dialed-in printer and have no issues with warping or corners curling up during prints, you can try them without brims. We don't use brims on anything but we've printed thousands of parts and we keep our printers very well tuned all the time with weekly maintenance and adjustments.
*These parts are large so if you don't use brims and things don't work out you might kill half a roll of plastic ... so maybe just use brims, it only adds a few minutes of cleanup time.
* Brims/rafts are not recommended on any of the other parts. The other parts generally have enough bed surface contact that they will print fine without brims. Your mileage may vary however and it is recommended that you keep a close eye on the first few layers of the print to make sure everything is sticking properly.
* We personally prefer brims over rafts (such as available in Cura and Simplify3D) as they are easy to remove and leave a clean look.
====POST PRINT====
Other than removing brims/rafts and the occasional drip, there is not any special post-processing required after printing. Some of the big bridges might seem a little saggy but generally speaking there's enough tolerance that this won't cause an issue. The biggest bridges are mostly hidden inside the robot so they won't affect cosmetics.

====PRO TIPS====
*Do routine maintenance on your printer before printing the big parts: lubricate rods and lead screws, check bed leveling, replace nozzle if worn, do a calibration print, clean your print surface, etc. A few minutes of preparation will help you nail these prints and make a project you can be very proud of!
*Print the large parts (Base, Cap) at the ''start'' of new spools. The last thing you want is to run out of filament 95% of the way through a big part.
*Print the smallest parts (servo stops, hinge rings, gamepad drawer) near the end of a spool.
*If you have a large format printer, it is tempting to kick off all three Base parts at once and let it run overnight. We would recommend against that--the chances of killing an entire spool of filament due to an overnight power hit or other failure is just not worth it. Take your time, do the big parts one by one. One or two during the day, one overnight. It will all get done soon enough. An extra couple of days won't matter in the long run.

== Building the Robot ==

You will need the following tools:
*Included in the kit:
** 2mm hex key. A 5/64 inch hex key will also work. This is in the Megapod Parts bag.
** 7/64 hex key at least 6" long (150mm). It needs to be long enough to reach screws through access holes in the Base and Cap. This is in the Megapod Parts Bag.
*Not included in the kit:
** Optional: A marker that can write on dark plastic and still be seen, such as Sharpie Metallic or Sharpie Oil markers (white and yellow work great on dark colored plastic, black or blue work well on light colored plastic). This can be used to make raised lettering on the robot and gamepad more visible.
** Optional: Needle nose pliers can be helpful for holding nuts in place while tightening screws.
** Optional: Slip-joint pliers can be helpful for forcing the skate bearings into their press-fit locations on the Leg Hinges
** Optional: An electric screwdriver with a 7/64" hex key attachment will greatly speed up the process of locking the servos in place using the servo stop parts. There are 12 long screws to insert. Do yourself a favor, electric screwdrivers are not expensive these days and are very handy.

===IMPORTANT WARNING: POWERFUL SERVOS MAY INJURE YOU===
The motors on Max the Megapod are very powerful compared to the smaller Vorpal the Hexapod project. It is possible for the leg motions to pinch fingers or even possibly break fingers or cause other injuries. When powering on the Megapod you must keep fingers clear of places where the legs/hips can come together. In case of electrical issues the legs may move unexpectedly. Turning the power off will release the motors. Never let small children play with the megapod or grab at it when it's walking or moving.

If the robot is moving in an out of control manner, use a pencil, book, or rod to hit the power switch, which is large and easy to turn off.

You must at all times take standard precautions that are typical with large robotic projects.

If you are building your own electrical system please do not skimp by skipping adding the fuse to the circuit. This project may draw significant amperage and fuse protection is required.

===Step by Step Instructions===
====STEP 1: Insert accessory port screws in the chassis====
This is easier to do before the Base is assembled into a single part.
* Insert 1" #6-32 socket head screws in the bottom two holes of the accessory port with the head of the screw inside the hexapod, then secure using lock washers and nuts outside. Repeat for the top two accessory holes with shorter 3/4" #6-32 socket head screws. Two wingnuts go on the two lower screws, these will be used to secure accessories such as the Jousting Lance.
<gallery mode=packed>
File:Accessory-Port-Diagram-V2.JPG|The accessory port is considered the "front" of the robot.
File:Accessory-Port-Screws.JPG|Longer socket head screws go on the bottom. Do not overtighten the nuts.
File:Wing-Nuts-Installed.JPG|After installing the nuts, put the wingnuts on the bottom screws. They'll be used later to secure accessories.
</gallery>

====STEP 2: Build the BASE====
* STEP 1A: Take the three outer parts of the base (STL files: Base-1, Base-2, Base-3) and arrange them to form the "bowl" of the base. Make sure the servo numbers are in the right order as you move clockwise around the three parts! It's possible to assemble them in the wrong order if you don't check.
* STEP 1B: There are matching screw holes positioned on little rectangular outcroppings on the inside of the top ring, these require screws to bind the three parts together. Use three 7/8 inch socket head screws, toothed lock washers, and nuts to secure them. There is an access hole in the rim of the robot to allow the hex key to turn the screw. You may need to hold the nut in place using needle-nose pliers. Repeat for all three sections.
<gallery mode=packed heights=250>
File:Base-Exploded-View.JPG|Line up the three main pieces of the base, ensuring the servo numbers are in order.
File:Access-Hole-In-Base.jpg|Small access holes are strategically placed around the base so the hex key can turn the screws to secure the three base pieces.
File:Securing-Base-Sections.jpg|Use the access hole in the Base parts to secure screws that bind the three base parts together.
File:Megapod-Foam-Squares.jpg|Peel the backing off the foam squares that came with the kit and attach them to the bottom of the base. Stack them on top of each other.
</gallery>
* STEP 1C: Take the Base Bottom part and place it inside the base. There is a nub in one place that will only allow it to be inserted in one orientation. Use 5/8" screws in the outer ring of holes in the bottom to secure it to the base. The head of the screw should be on the outside of the robot and nuts should secure the screws on the inside. NOTE: There are six outer ring holes, however you only need three of them (one in each base section) to secure the robot. Early versions of the kit only had three 5/8" screws.
* STEP 1D: Take the foam squares that came in your kit and stick them on the bottom of the robot. (Build up several layers, they stick to each other.) These foam pads will reduce the shock and stress on the robot when it goes down to the floor on certain dance moves. Without these pads, the robot leg servos and body structure may undergo too much stress.

====STEP 3: Install the electrical system in the base====
* STEP 3A: Take the potentiometer and remove its dial cap, then unscrew the nut and set these items aside for now (don't lose them). Push the potentiometer shaft from the inside of the chassis into the hole that is surrounded by the markings "STOP", "TST", etc. The wires coming out of the potentiometer should be pointing down. The little metal nub sticking out of the potentiometer should match with a tiny rectangular hole that is near the marking "TST". Put the retaining nut on the potentiometer, hand tighten first and then give it just another half turn or so with pliers if desired. Turn the knob all the way counter-clockwise, then insert the knob so it points to the letter "O" in the word "STOP".
* STEP 3B: Take the large DPST on/off switch (which is attached to the battery holder and power distribution assembly) and thread the switch wires from the inside through the gap at the bottom of the switch hole (see picture). Carefully push the wires one by one through the slot below the switch hole. Once all the wires are through, push the switch into the switch hole. It should be oriented with the "1" to the right. Press carefully into the hole, it should snap firmly in place.
** If the fit is too tight to get the switch in place, lightly sanding or filing the hole to make it a tiny bit larger should work.
<gallery mode=packed heights=200>
File:Switch-Insert-1.jpg|Thread the switch and its wires through the Base, there is an opening under the switch hole.
File:Switch-Insert-2.jpg|Bring the wires up through the small gap below the switch hole. Be careful with the large wires, they require some pressure or some flexing of the plastic to get through.
File:Switch-Insert-3.jpg|All the wires are now coming through the switch hole.
File:Switch-Insert-4.jpg|Press the switch into the hole, it should snap into place. The "1" should be to the right.
</gallery>

====STEP 4: Insert servos in the chassis====
* Next, insert the servo into the chassis as shown in the diagrams below. As you insert the servo into the chassis, slowly press it straight into place until it fully seats. Use a servo stopper and one 1.5 inch #6 socket screw to secure the servos in place. Use the hole nearest to the front of the servo. NOTE: There are two holes in the Servo Stop but we have found that one screw is enough to hold it. The second hole could be used if you find that the plastic you use tears through the hole. We have not seen this but we added the second hole just in case.
<gallery mode=packed heights=250>
File:Servo-in-Base-2.jpg|Insert each servo with the wire coming out away from the robot as shown here. Press in completely.
File:Servo-in-Base-3.jpg|Insert a servo stopper (shown in red) and secure with one 1.5" screw in the hole nearest the front (the servo shaft and horn is in the front). Thread the wire into the body of the robot through the hole as shown.
</gallery>

====STEP 5: Insert the servos in the Legs====
The technique is very similar to inserting the servo into the chassis.
*Insert the servo straight into the leg socket so that the wire is coming out of the servo facing away from the plastic leg and the face of the servo with the shaft and servo horn goes into the open faced side of the leg, as shown in the diagram.
*Secure the servo in place with a servo stopper and one 1.5 inch screw as you did with the hip servos in the base. NOTE: There are two holes in the stopper but we have found that one screw is enough to hold it. The second hole could be used if you find that the plastic you use tears through the hole. We have not seen this but we added the second hole just in case.
*The servos in the legs are called the "knee" servos. Each leg has a higher number on it, this is the knee number, they run from 6 to 11. Again, write this number on the black connector at the end of the servo wire. PRO TIP: For 6 and 9, underline the number so you don't read them upside down!
<gallery mode=packed heights=200>
File:Servo-Insert-Leg-v2.png|Insert Servos in Legs
File:Servo-Leg-Inserted-v2.png|Push until fully seated
File:Servo-Stopper-In-Leg.jpg|Use the servo stopper and two screws to lock the servo in place
</gallery>

*Thread each leg servo wire into the bottom wire guide slot on the chassis. Each leg servo should be matched with a hip servo plus 6. The legs are marked with the hip number near the top and the knee number below that. For example, the leg marked 6 should be threaded through the wire guide on hip servo 0, leg 7 goes with hip 1, leg 8 goes with hip 2, etc. Add 6 to the hip number to get the leg number.

====STEP 6: Plug in the Servos====
Thread the servo wires into the chassis using the routing holes, as you did with the hip servos. The power distribution harness has marked servo extension sockets for each servo. Each hip servo is marked on the BASE showing its number. the knee servo for each hip is numbered six higher than its corresponding hip. For example, hip servo number 3 will be attached to knee servo number 9, because 3+6=9.

When plugging the servos in, make sure you match the light yellow servo wire to the white servo extension wire, and the dark brown servo wire should match with the black servo extension wire.

====STEP 7: Make Robot Electrical Connections====

Now use the diagram below in the electrical section to make the rest of the robot's electrical connections. You'll be using the Robot Arduino Nano (marked "R"), the Servo Driver, Bluetooth Module marked "S", the buzzer, and a bunch of jumper wires. Make sure you use the longer jumper wires for the SDA and SCL connections between the Nano and the Servo Driver.

====STEP 8: Assemble the leg hinges====
[[File:Servo-Bracket-Alignment-v1.png|thumb|350px|right|Align the leg hinges as shown here. The bumps (see arrows) should both be near each other when properly aligned. Hold one in each hand with the ends of the U shape between thumb and forefinger.]]
Each leg hinge is composed of two identical U-shaped parts. Take one in each hand and align the two so that the bump (shown in the diagram at the right) are both near each other. Turn one 90 degrees with respect to the other.
*Gently squeeze each piece between thumb and forefinger, which causes the little jaws in the center to open up slightly. Work the two halves together. Keep squeezing harder until the ends slide into place. NOTE: Make sure you printed version V1r2b or later. Earlier versions made it too difficult to squeeze the parts into place. If you printed an earlier version, you may need to trim some plastic using angle cutters to get the parts together.
*If you used PLA and are finding it hard to bend, briefly soaking the pieces in very hot tap water has been reported to make it easier. Take care not to scald yourself, the water does not have to be boiling, just hot from the tap. You only need to dip the ends that will lock over each other, not the parts you will squeeze. Use caution.
*At this stage, you may notice that the parts are loosely clamped on each other (this depends on plastic used and whether your printer over- or under-extrudes). Don't worry! When you place the leg hinges over a servo, the servo will spread it apart and they will lock together tightly.
*Insert a 608 skate bearing into the socket on one side of the leg hinges. Pliers may be necessary to press them into place. Make sure you clean up any drips inside the recessed area for the skate bearing before attempting to insert the bearings.

====STEP 9: Attach Leg Hinges====
The leg hinges connect the hips to the knees. They only go on one way. If you made sure to align the bumps when assembling the leg hinges, this will result in correct orientation of all legs.
*First place the end that matches the servo horn on about halfway. Make sure the servo horn slides under the little pocket at the end of recessed area that accepts the horn.
*Very slightly bend the U shaped piece while pulling the skate bearing side over the hemispherical bump on the other side of the servo holding area. It's a little easier to do the knees (servos mounted to legs) first, followed by the hips (servos on base).
*NOTE: It will be a tight fit, but it should not be excessively difficult to push the hinge over the hemispherical bearing. If you find you are struggling, that means the hinges are too tight. This may affect walking. This can be due to the kind of plastic you used or how your printer is adjusted. You may need to gently spread the two legs of the U shape by hand before putting the hinge on the robot. Be careful of course not to break the hinge.
*When completed, double check to make sure the servo horn went into the covered pocket at the end of its recessed area. This pocket keeps the horn from slipping out of the hinge during stressful operations.

====STEP 10: Enclose the electronics modules in their caddies====

Now things look pretty messy with all those wires hanging loose, let's clean it up by stowing the Arduino Nano, Bluetooth module and Servo Driver in their caddies. The caddies will keep them safe by making sure they can't short out against each other or touch screws, etc.
* '''STEP 10A: Insert Caddy Bars''' Insert the electronics caddy bars as shown in the diagrams below. Notice carefully how they are inserted. Don't insert them upside down, the little hump should be facing inward toward the caddy. You may need to slightly squeeze the forked section at the end to work it into the hole. Once inside, it may be difficult to remove because it will snap into place, so be sure you're putting it in the right way.
<gallery mode=packed heights=300>
File:Insert-Caddy-Bar-1.jpg|Insertion of the caddy bar into the Nano caddy. Notice the orientation, don't put the bar in upside down. The same technique is used for the Servo Driver Caddy.
</gallery>
* '''STEP 10B: Insert the Arduino Nano into its caddy''' Carefully insert the Nano as shown, making sure you don't pull out any of the wires. You may need to wiggle the caddy bar from side to side a bit so that components can slide past it during insertion. Notice that the end of the Nano that has the USB port must go in last.

<gallery mode=packed heights=250>
File:Insert-Nano-In-Caddy-1.jpg|Insert the Nano in the orientation shown.
File:Insert-Nano-In-Caddy-2.jpg|You may need to wiggle it a bit or press on the bar to work it into place.
File:Insert-Nano-In-Caddy-3.jpg|Note how the USB port is accessible through the top after full insertion.
</gallery>

* '''STEP 10C: Insert the Servo Driver into its caddy''' Carefully insert the Servo Driver as shown, making sure you don't pull out any of the wires. You may need to wiggle the caddy bar from side to side a bit so that components can slide past it during insertion. Notice that the end of the Servo controller with wires sticking out of it must go in last.

<gallery mode=packed heights=200>
File:Insert-ServoDriver-In-Caddy-1.jpg|Insert the Servo Driver in the orientation shown.
File:Insert-ServoDriver-In-Caddy-2.jpg|You may need to wiggle it a bit or press on the bar to work it into place.
File:Insert-ServoDriver-In-Caddy-3.jpg|Note that the end with the wires goes in last.
</gallery>

* '''STEP 10D: Insert the HC05 Bluetooth Module''' The diagrams here do not show the wires to make them easier to visualize. The HC05 Bluetooth module with a name beginning with "S" should be used for the robot. For example, the label will read something like "VORP S2944" (the number will differ). The one marked "M" will be used for the gamepad. Slide the HC05 into the side drawer as shown. When inserting, be careful not to pull out the wires, which will be a little tight. Work the wires into the little space provided so they stay clear of the robot's cap when it gets screwed on later.

<gallery mode=packed heights=250>
File:Insert-HC05-in-Caddy-1.jpg|Insert the HC05 into the side drawer of the Nano Caddy as shown.
File:Insert-HC05-in-Caddy-2.jpg|When fully inserted, the indicator light will still be visible through the small oval.
File:Insert-HC05-in-Caddy-3.jpg|The wires should be tucked into the little cavity near the pins of the HC05.
</gallery>

====STEP 11: Power up!====
Make sure the on/off switch is off, and the knob is turned to STOP. Insert batteries and power on the robot using the on/off switch. You should hear a beep, a pause, then a second beep. The servos should all twitch into position. If the robot does not move at all, immediately turn the switch off and check your connections again. If some of the servos don't move then gently push them with power off to see if you can free them up. If they still won't move, try pushing them with power applied, but turn off the power within 30 seconds if they're locked up. If you can't get the servo to move it will need to be replaced.

[[File:Servo-Horn-Orientation.png|thumb|right|The servo horn should come straight out from the body at a 90 degree angle as shown here. Do not turn the servo shaft by hand until after it has moved under power!]]

====STEP 12: Insert Servo Horns====
The servo horns are all at random angles right now due to the servo pre-check. In this step we'll make them point in the right direction. The knee servos are not at 90 degrees when the knob is all the way counter clockwise, rather they are at a 30 degree standing angle.

We need to get them to 90 degrees so its easy to align the servo horn, and this is done by going into "Adjust Mode". Turn the knob very slightly clockwise until you hear a beep, then stop. After about one second you will see all the knee servos twitch. This is "adjust servo horn mode". All servos (knees and hips) are now at their halfway point, 90 degrees.

Now you need to take each single arm servo horn and carefully insert it on the shaft so that it is sticking straight out as shown in the figure. You will not always be able to make the horn come totally straight out. This is because there are only 22 little groves (splines) in each shaft, meaning you can in general only come within about 8 degrees of being at a perfect 90 degree angle. This amount of error is acceptable for now, just get it as close as you can. Later we'll use Trim Mode to make fine adjustments.

====STEP 13: Test Knee Positions====
Turn the knob fully counter clockwise (to STOP) and the robot will go into "stand still" mode. Place it on a level surface such as a table top. Do all of the legs touch the ground? If one or more legs don't touch the ground, you need to adjust the servo horn on the knee a little bit so it does touch. Gently pull off the servo bracket. Pull the servo horn off, and put it back on just a little bit moved so the leg would move closer to the ground. Put the servo bracket back on, and see how it looks. Do this until all legs are at least slightly touching the ground. Again, you can't necessarily be perfect due to the 8 degree increments the servo horns can be moved. But you should be able to be close enough that all legs at least slightly touch the ground.

====STEP 14: Insert Servo Screws====
Now that the legs are adjusted, you can insert the M3x12 screws (with M3 lock washers) into the servo horns to lock them in place. Note that you will NOT be using the screws that were in the little bag the servos came in, you'll be using the separate pack of screws, which are longer than the ones in the servo bag. Do not overtighten these screws, as you could possibly crack the servo brackets. Just turn the screws until you start to feel resistance, then turn a quarter turn more and stop.

====STEP 14: Test the Servos====
*'''STEP 14A: Using TST Mode'''
**To test whether every servo is working, put the robot on something that will lift its legs off the table top, but won't interfere with the legs (a small box, etc.).
**Start with the knob on STOP, then slowly turn it clockwise. You'll hear one beep (Adjust mode), then a second beep (Test mode). Stop turning and the robot will go into "individual servo test mode". In this mode, every hip servo will move, one by one. When all the hips have moved, every leg will move, one by one. You should see every servo move, in order. If some don't move, check your connections. A common error is to plug a servo connector into the servo controller backwards (i.e. the brown wire is matched with the yellow pin instead of the black pin). If the servos do not move in a sensible order, that probably means you plugged a couple of servos into the wrong sockets in the electrical harness.

*'''STEP 14B: Test Using Demo Mode'''
**Ok, everything looks good, so time for a full test. Turn the knob to STOP, then put the robot on the floor, somewhere that has at least a few feet of room in each direction. (Caution: it's tempting to do this on a table top, but unless you have a huge table this is not advisable, Max will run pretty fast at some points during the demo.)
**Turn the knob to DEMO, and about one second later the robot will go through a series of movements to demonstrate some of the things it can do. The full demo only takes about 30 seconds, then repeats. Here, you are looking for the robot to, for example, be able to get back up off the floor after doing some of its dance moves.
**If the robot struggles to get off the floor, you may have a battery that is not fully charged, or there may be drips or other obstructions stopping some legs from moving fully. See the [[Vorpal Combat_Hexapod Troubleshooting Guide|Trouble Shooting Guide]] for more information about different kinds of issues that can occur. That guide was written for the small robot, but most of the things that can go wrong with Max the Megapod are identical to the things that can go wrong with Vorpal The Hexapod.

====STEP 15: Store electronics and wires in the Base====
Carefully stow the caddies into the base, using any available convenient space. Arrange the servo and other wires so they don't cross any screw holes. The three Base Cover parts can be used to secure everything, however you may not want to put in more than one screw each at this point, until the robot is more fully tested. Be sure the two battery connectors come through the holes provided for them in the Cover parts.
<gallery mode=packed heights=250>
File:All-Electronics-Inserted-In-Base.jpg|Carefully stow the caddies into the base, being careful not to pull out any wires. Press servo wires into place too, make sure they don't overlap any screw holes.
File:Base-Covers-3.jpg|Place the three covers in place. It is not necessary to screw them down at this point, you may want to wait until the robot is more fully tested. We normally just put in one screw on each component at this point--this makes it easy to get back into the electronics if something needs to be checked.
</gallery>

====STEP 16: Assemble the Cap====
*'''STEP 16A: Assemble the Four Cap Parts'''
**First assemble the three large pieces after removing the support coming out of the center. Be aware that there is a correct ordering to them, the two flaps that stick out near the bottom need to be opposite each other so the cap can slot into the Base and lock in place. Use 7/8" screws to secure the three parts together as shown. There are access holes around the rim that allow the hex key to reach the screws. Use nuts and locking washers to secure the screws.
**Secure the top of the cap onto the bottom three pieces using three 5/8" #6 socket screws and their associated nuts and toothed lock washers.
<gallery mode=packed heights=250>
File:Cap-Exploded.JPG|Arrangement of the four Cap parts. Note that this diagram shows the support in place, this should actually be removed prior to assembly.
File:CAP-Assembly-order.JPG|Make sure the two flaps at the rim are opposite each other when ordering the three main parts.
</gallery>
* '''STEP 16B: Put magnets in the Cap''' Insert a magnet in each magnet holder in the cap. The magnets are marked with a dot on the North pole side. It is important that this dot be showing after installation. In other words, insert the magnet with the non-dot side down. The magnet is about 2mm smaller in diameter than the hole, so you will need to use hot glue (or some other kind of glue that works on metal and plastic) to secure it.
* '''STEP 16C: Decorate''' If desired, use a permanent marker to color the Vorpal "V" on top of the Cap. Oil markers work well. On light colors of plastic a black permanent marker will also work.
* '''STEP 16D: Put Cap on the Hexapod'''
**Screw the cap on the robot by lining up the tabs with the matching slots in the rim of the base. Turn the cap clockwise to lock it in place. IMPORTANT: Do not press down on the robot to insert the cap when the robot is under power standing on its legs! You can damage the leg motors by doing this. It is best to turn the robot off, and either support the bottom of the Base with one hand and press the Cap on with the other, or set the Base down on the table top or floor with legs out to the sides so they don't take pressure.
**If the cap is too loose and swivels while the robot moves, this can be fixed by putting a bit of tape on the cap's flaps to make them a little thicker. The tightness of the cap depends a lot on printer settings, over- or under-extrusion, etc.

====STEP 17: Warning Label====
There are two a self-stick choking hazard warning labels in the hexapod parts bag. Peel the backing off one of them and place it on the bottom of the robot, near the center. Retain the second label for the gamepad.

==== Step 18: Trimming the Servos ====
When you assembled the servo horns onto the servos, you probably were not able to get them all to come out exactly at a 90 degree angle. That's not your fault: the servo horns only have 22 possible positions in which they can be installed, so at best you can come within plus or minus 8 degrees of perfection.

Now that you have the gamepad working, you can make fine adjustments to the servo positions using "Trim Mode". In this special gamepad mode, you can adjust all the servos. These adjustments are saved in the robot's EEPROM, which is memory on the Nano that retains data even when powered off. So, you only need to trim once.

Complete instructions on how to use trim mode are in the wiki page: [[Vorpal The Hexapod Trim Mode Guide]]. That guide was written for the smaller robot, but the instructions are identical for Max the Megapod.

NOTE: although this step is optional, it is recommended because your robot will walk straighter and all the servos will share equally in lifting the robot's weight, which will make them last longer.

====Step 19: Assembling Eye Decorations====
Glue a magnet into the magnet hole on both sets of eyes. The magnet should have the marked side face down, not showing.

You can use hot glue, "superglue" or any other kind of glue that works on plastic and metal.

==Electrical Connections: Robot==

===NOTES ON JUMPER WIRES===

====Wire Lengths====
There are two different lengths of female-female Dupont jumper wires used to make most connections. The longer ones (20cm) are only used for the Hexapod's accessory port connections. The shorter ones are used for all the connections on the Gamepad and all the connections on the Hexapod between the Arduino Nano, Servo controller and Bluetooth module.

====Wire Color Conventions====

Please follow these conventions when selecting wire colors:
* For +5V, Vin, and similar positive voltage connections, use either RED or ORANGE.
* For GND and other negative electrical connections, use BLACK or BROWN.
* For the connectors that sit at the mouth of the accessory port (used for optional sensors) colors are suggested below in the instructions. By following these suggestions you will make your life easier when connecting sensors!
* For all other connections, you can use any color you want, it's arbitrary.

====If Jumper Wires Are Too Loose====
Sometimes you will find a wire whose connector does not grip the pin well enough. It might fall off very easily or just by gravity alone. If that happens, you have a few options:
* There are extra wires in your kit. If you find a wire that's too loose, just use a different wire.
* Using the hex key, you can put the jumper housing on a flat surface then press on the metal showing through the plastic connector, which will tighten up the jumper wire's grip. Don't go too overboard on pressing though or you might make it too hard to insert.
* Alternatively, you could use electrical tape after inserting all the wires on a module (such as the Nano) to effectively attach together all the little plastic female connector housings. In that way, the connectors that do grip will help hold in the ones that are too loose. Some people also like using hot glue for this purpose. (Personally, I don't like using hot glue, as it makes it harder to change connections if you hooked something up incorrectly.)

===NANO PIN CONNECTIONS===
[[File:Megapod-Nano-Connections-v1.JPG|thumb|600px|right|Diagram of Nano connections for the Hexapod. Jumpers marked AP are routed to the Accessory Port for use with add-ons like sensors. Click for larger image.]]
* ''Digital IO Pins:''
** D0, D1 are reserved because they are used for uploading programs to the robot, so nothing will be connected there.
** D2, D3 No connection.
** D4 Buzzer Signal (white wire)
** D5 through D13 No connection. These pins are reserved for future expansion.

* ''Analog Pins:''
** A0 Potentiometer signal (white wire)
** A1 Potentiometer Power (red wire)
** A2 Potentiometer Ground (black wire)
** A3 No connection.
** A4 Servo Controller SDA
** A5 Servo Controller SCL
** A6, A7 No connection.

* ''Power Pins:''
** +5V pin on Nano connects to any of the +5V RED wires coming from the BEC on the power distribution harness.
** GND pin on Nano connects to any of the GND BLACK wires coming from the BEC on the power distribution harness.

===Servo Driver Power Pins===
* Port 0 RED pin on the Servo Driver connects to any of the +5V RED wires coming from the BEC on the power distribution harness.
* Port 0 BLACK GND pin on the Servo Driver connects to any of the GND BLACK wires coming from the BEC on the power distribution harness.

=== Bluetooth Module Power ===
* +5V on HC05 connects to any RED Dupont connector coming off the BEC.
* GND on HC05 connects to any BLACK Dupont connector coming off the BEC.

=== Buzzer Power ===
* Plug the buzzer into the unused port 15 on the servo driver, making sure the red and black wires on the buzzer power match the red and black rows of pins on the servo driver.

=== Servo Driver ===
[[File:Megapod-ServoDriverConnections.jpg|thumb|600px|right|Diagram of Servo Controller pins you will use in this project. Each servo motor has a 3 wire connector that should be plugged into the corresponding servo number extension connector in the power distribution harness. The white wires coming out of the harness in groups of four should be connected to the yellow line or ports, matching the number ranges to port numbers. Note that the black and red rows of pins are not used, power is provided to the servos through the power distribution harness. Click for larger image.]]
* Connect the 12 servos to power distribution harness connectors marked with port numbers corresponding to the servo marking (0 to 11). Make sure the signal wire (yellow) is oriented correctly and matches the yellow plastic header pin.
* Connect the groups of four white wires which are marked with servo port numbers to the Servo Driver yellow pins, matching the Servo Driver pin number to the port numbers written on the 4-pin Dupont connectors coming out of the power distribution harness.
* Connect one of the +5V RED regulated BEC outputs to the RED port 0 pin of the Servo Driver. Connect one of the GND black pins coming out of the BEC to the BLACK port 0 GND pin on the Servo Driver.
* On one short side of the Servo Controller you will find a VCC and V+ pin right next to each other. Use a shunt (small black connector that goes over two pins) to connect those together if one is not already installed. Without this shunt the Servo Driver will not work.
* SDA and SCL go to A4 and A5 on the Nano, respectively.



== Building the Gamepad ==
The gamepad for Max The Megapod is identical to the Gamepad for Vorpal The Hexapod.

Please see instructions on [[Vorpal_The_Hexapod_Building_Instructions#Building_the_Gamepadd|the Vorpal Hexapod Gamepad Assembly instructions]].

{{Megapod Quick Links}}

Max The Megapod Assembly Instructions

2021-06-03T14:14:02Z

Vorpalwiki: /* ROBOT BOM */

==BILL OF MATERIALS (BOM) FOR MAX THE MEGAPOD==
===Notes on Sourcing Parts Yourself===
* These instructions assume you have purchased a kit from us. If you are sourcing your own parts, please be aware of the following additional information:
**If you are sourcing your own parts, you need to build the power distribution connector assembly. For diagrams see [[Max The Megapod Battery/Switch Construction]]. This will take about 2 hours of soldering work.
**Also see important information on that page if you are sourcing your own BEC.
**If you are sourcing your own Bluetooth modules, please be aware that you will need to configure them to auto-pair and to have a UART speed of 38400 BAUD. Every module brand's firmware is a bit different so it's not possible for us to give you universal instructions on how to program them. We assume that if you source your own parts you are familiar with how to configure Bluetooth modules using AT-commands. (You can find tutorials online or videos on youtube, but like we said, different modules may not exactly match instructions you will find so be prepared to fiddle around a bit). Please do not ask our customer support for help on this topic. We sell pre-configured modules that auto-pair on boot for a very reasonable price.
**If you are sourcing your own Arduino Nano modules, you will need to flash the robot and gamepad code on them. You can find the code at the [https://github.com/vorpalrobotics/VorpalHexapod Vorpal Hexapod Repo on Github]. Note: there is no difference in software between the large and small versions of the hexapod.
* Please be very careful about substitutions. You might think you can substitute cheaper parts for the ones specified here. Don't bet on it. Walking robots are extremely difficult to design and we've chosen each part for a good reason. For example, if you try to substitute cheaper servos you are very likely to find that they don't provide enough torque for the robot to stand up, or they wear out within minutes due to being overstressed. If you substitute a different battery voltage, you'll either fry the servos or they won't have enough torque. It took 1000 hours of work to design the smaller hexapod on which this one is based, then another 500 hours to get the big version working well.
* Full kits of parts as well as individual parts are available on [http://vorpal-robotics-store.myshopify.com The Vorpal Robotics Store]. If you are new to Arduino and robotics we strongly recommend you purchase a kit instead of trying to self-source parts. The kits cut 3 to 4 hours off the build time, bringing it to typically 2 to 2.5 hours. The kits have all soldering done, programs are already loaded on the Nanos, Bluetooth modules are properly configured, and you know you have all the right parts to work together. About half the people who self-source parts end up buying parts that are incorrect or are so cheap that they will quickly fail (and they end up spending more money and far more time than if they had simply bought a kit to start with!)

=== ROBOT BOM ===
[[File:Choking-Hazard-Image.jpg|right|350px]]
[[File:PinchPoint-Warning.JPG|right|350px]]
* ''Electronics:''
** Passive Piezo Buzzer module and 3 wire cable (see image) [[File:Passive-Piezo-Buzzer-Module.jpg|right|thumb|Passive Piezo Buzzer Module]]
** Arduino Nano, 5V, 16 mHz, ATMEGA328 or similar (marked RM in our kit to indicate it is pre-loaded with megapod robot software)
** Rotary potentiometer, 10K Ohms, 6mm shaft diameter, with 3 wires pre-soldered. Also, matching dial cap and nut. If you are self-sourcing see our instructions: [[Max The Megapod Battery/Switch Construction]]
** 1 x HC05 BlueTooth Module with 4 x F-F jumper wires for making connections (Note: the HC05 has six pins but only four are used in this project. Also, this is in the Gamepad Parts bag if you purchase our kit.)
** 1 x Servo Controller module (Adafruit 16-channel 12-bit I2C PWM/Servo driver or Adafruit clone) with F-F jumper wires for making connections, plus 1 two-pin shunt tying V+ to VCC
** 12 x MG958 servo motors and associated servo horns (you will only use the single-arm horn). NOTE: our kits come with one extra servo as a spare, there are 13 in the kit but only 12 are needed. We recommend 25T size metal horns for the knee servos (the ones that insert into the legs). We provide six metal horns with our kits as of November 2019. The plastic horns will wear out on the knee servos after about 4 to 8 hours of use and their splines will strip.
** 1 x Power distribution wiring harness with DPST on/off switch, Fuse, Tamiya battery connector, 3A 5V BEC, and servo extension connectors. If you are self-sourcing see our wiring instructions: [[Max The Megapod Battery/Switch Construction|Circuit Diagrams]].
* ''3D Printed Parts:''
** 3 Robot Base Parts and bottom plate to hold the parts together.
** 3 Robot Base Covers (used to enclose wiring inside the Base).
** 4 Cap parts which screw together to form the cap of the robot.
** 6 x Legs
** 12 x Servo Stops. These parts hold the servos in their compartments both in the base and the legs.
** 12 x Leg Hinge halves with Leg Hinge Rings. The rings stop layer separation issues under stress.
** 1 x Electronics Caddy to hold nano and servo controller
** 2 x Eye/glasses Decoration
* Screws and Fasteners
** 12 x button head screw, M3 x 12mm long with M3 toothed lock washers (for servo horns)
** 6 x #6-32 x 7/8" socket head screws (to fasten together "bowl" of base and cap parts).
** 3 x #6-32 x 5/8" socket head screws (to fasten top of cap onto cap bowl)
** 12 x #6-32 x 1.5" socket head cap screws for securing servos in their sockets.
** 2 x #6-32 1” socket head screw (for accessory port)
** 2 x #6-32 0.75" socket head screw (for accessory port)
** 2 x #6 wingnut (for accessory port)
** 19 x #6 nut
** 19 x #6 toothed lock washer
** 9 x #6-32 7/8” socket head screws with lock washers (for fastening Base and Cap sections together)
* ''Miscellaneous:''
** 12 x 608 Skate Bearings
** 8 x 18mm diameter ceramic magnet, approximately 5mm thick, north pole marked. 6 are for robot top, 2 for eye/glasses decorations
** 1 x T handle hex driver, 2mm, for button head screws.
** 1 x T handle hex driver, 7/64" for socket head screws.
* Tools not included in the kit:
** Needle nose pliers are useful for holding the nuts while assembling BASE and CAP parts.
** Slip-pliers are useful for forcing skate bearings into their press-fit locations on the Leg Hinges
** Hot glue gun and glue sticks for securing magnets. You can also use cyanoacrylate glue (i.e. "super glue") or any glue that works on both plastic and metal.
** If you have an electric screwdriver this will make assembly of the servo stops much faster. You would need a 7/64" hex key attachment.
* Batteries (not included in kit)
Max uses a five-cell NIMH battery pack with a nominal voltage of 6.0 volts, and it uses a standard 9v battery through a 5V regulator to drive the electronics (Arduino, Bluetooth module, Servo driver, etc). A second 9v battery is needed for the gamepad. We recommend rechargeable batteries for the 9v, they can be NIMN, LI-ON, or NICAD.

Our electrical system requires a full sized Tamiya male connector on the NIMH battery pack (there is a matching female Tamiya on the robot). We recommend 4000 mAh or more, and we recommend a wire gauge on the battery of 18 gauge or less (smaller gauge means thicker wire). A battery we have used with success is this one: [https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003WTSPHG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Dynamite 6.0v 5100 mAh NIMH Battery] although many others are available on the market.

The battery specs should confirm that it can output 5 amps continuously and can handle spikes to 10amps on an intermittent basis (5 seconds maximum). Most NIMH batteries at 4000 mAh or more will fulfill this. (Note: we do not recommend LI-ON batteries for the main pack on the Megapod, as they often cannot supply enough amps).

Many hobby and RC suppliers have cable converters to go from Tamiya connectors to other types (cross, XT60, etc.) so it is possible to use NIMH batteries with other kinds of connector if you can locate or construct a suitable adapter cable.

=== GAMEPAD ===
The gamepad for Max The Megapod is identical to the gamepad for Vorpal The Hexapod. See instructions for the gamepad here: [[Vorpal_The_Hexapod_Building_Instructions#Building_the_Gamepadd|Vorpal The Hexapod Gamepad Assembly instructions]]

==Printing the Plastic Parts==

This section assumes you have basic familiarity with 3D printing and 3D printing terminology. If not, you might want to reference online materials such as youtube videos or information from your 3D printer manufacturer before attempting this project.

===OBTAINING THE STL FILES===
We have posted the STL files our public dropbox folder: [http://tinyurl.com/VORPALFILES VORPAL FILES]. Go to the STL folder, then the GAMEPAD and MEGAPOD folders have the files you need. (The same gamepad is shared among all our hexapod projects).

Please post your builds to places like Thingiverse, pictures to FaceBook, Instagram, etc., and videos of your robot to YouTube! This will help us grow and continue having the resources creating cool new projects for our community.

===MINIMUM PRINTER REQUIREMENTS===
*The bed size should be at least 200mm cube (about 8 inches cube). The largest parts are the megapod Base-1, Base-2, and Base-3 parts, so it is the limiting factor on bed size.
*A heated bed is strongly recommended, especially if you are printing in ABS.
*An enclosure is recommended, especially if printing in ABS.
===AMOUNT OF PLASTIC FILAMENT===
* About 2.5 kg of plastic are needed to print the entire robot and gamepad. This does not include accessories like Joust attachments, etc.
* The amount of plastic used does depend on plastic type and exact print settings though, so your mileage may vary.
===RECOMMENDED PLASTICS===
*ABS, PETG, and PLA all work well. However, because there are some very large parts, ABS may cause you some warping issues if you don't have a heated bed, enclosure, and a printer tuned well for large parts. PLA is generally easier and has fewer issues with corners peeling off the print bed.
*We use eSun PLA PRO for this project and for us it works very well. PLA PRO is a little more flexible and stronger than typical PLA. We have no problems with warping even on the largest parts.
*This project requires less flexibility than the smaller Vorpal The Hexapod project, so ABS is less required for this project.
===PRINTING TIPS===
This project has been finely tuned to make it easy to 3D print. No supports are required for any of the parts (there is a support built into the models for the CAP parts). In some cases you may want to use brims or rafts to help parts adhere to the print surface.

There is some significant bridging with some spans up to 30mm (1.2"). It is important to tune your printer and make sure it can handle the bridging before attempting the large parts. A little sagging is ok and a drip or two can be easily removed, but you need decent ability to bridge. There are bridge testing and calibration models posted on sites like Thingiverse that may help you tune your printer before trying the big parts.

====PRINT SETTINGS====
We print using the following settings on a Lulzbot TAZ 6 with 0.5mm nozzle:
* 0.4 layer thickness (or whatever layer thickness is the largest that will work on your printer)
* 2mm walls (i.e. four perimeters for a 0.5mm nozzle)
* 1.6 mm top and bottom (i.e. four layers at 0.4mm layer height)
* 25% infill
* You can print with thinner layers if your printer does not support 0.4mm layers or if you want a more refined look, it will just take longer. If you have a large nozzle (0.8mm or more) you should be able to go with bigger layers and save a lot of print time. Please report your findings to us at support@vorpalrobotics.com so we can advise future Makers of this project.
====BRIMS AND RAFTS====
* Brims or rafts are recommended for the following hexapod parts: Base, Legs, Cap. This ensures proper bed retention to avoid warping. These parts have relatively little contact area with the print bed, or have certain sections with little contact.
*If you have a very well dialed-in printer and have no issues with warping or corners curling up during prints, you can try them without brims. We don't use brims on anything but we've printed thousands of parts and we keep our printers very well tuned all the time with weekly maintenance and adjustments.
*These parts are large so if you don't use brims and things don't work out you might kill half a roll of plastic ... so maybe just use brims, it only adds a few minutes of cleanup time.
* Brims/rafts are not recommended on any of the other parts. The other parts generally have enough bed surface contact that they will print fine without brims. Your mileage may vary however and it is recommended that you keep a close eye on the first few layers of the print to make sure everything is sticking properly.
* We personally prefer brims over rafts (such as available in Cura and Simplify3D) as they are easy to remove and leave a clean look.
====POST PRINT====
Other than removing brims/rafts and the occasional drip, there is not any special post-processing required after printing. Some of the big bridges might seem a little saggy but generally speaking there's enough tolerance that this won't cause an issue. The biggest bridges are mostly hidden inside the robot so they won't affect cosmetics.

====PRO TIPS====
*Do routine maintenance on your printer before printing the big parts: lubricate rods and lead screws, check bed leveling, replace nozzle if worn, do a calibration print, clean your print surface, etc. A few minutes of preparation will help you nail these prints and make a project you can be very proud of!
*Print the large parts (Base, Cap) at the ''start'' of new spools. The last thing you want is to run out of filament 95% of the way through a big part.
*Print the smallest parts (servo stops, hinge rings, gamepad drawer) near the end of a spool.
*If you have a large format printer, it is tempting to kick off all three Base parts at once and let it run overnight. We would recommend against that--the chances of killing an entire spool of filament due to an overnight power hit or other failure is just not worth it. Take your time, do the big parts one by one. One or two during the day, one overnight. It will all get done soon enough. An extra couple of days won't matter in the long run.

== Building the Robot ==

You will need the following tools:
*Included in the kit:
** 2mm hex key. A 5/64 inch hex key will also work. This is in the Megapod Parts bag.
** 7/64 hex key at least 6" long (150mm). It needs to be long enough to reach screws through access holes in the Base and Cap. This is in the Megapod Parts Bag.
*Not included in the kit:
** Optional: A marker that can write on dark plastic and still be seen, such as Sharpie Metallic or Sharpie Oil markers (white and yellow work great on dark colored plastic, black or blue work well on light colored plastic). This can be used to make raised lettering on the robot and gamepad more visible.
** Optional: Needle nose pliers can be helpful for holding nuts in place while tightening screws.
** Optional: Slip-joint pliers can be helpful for forcing the skate bearings into their press-fit locations on the Leg Hinges
** Optional: An electric screwdriver with a 7/64" hex key attachment will greatly speed up the process of locking the servos in place using the servo stop parts. There are 12 long screws to insert. Do yourself a favor, electric screwdrivers are not expensive these days and are very handy.

===IMPORTANT WARNING: POWERFUL SERVOS MAY INJURE YOU===
The motors on Max the Megapod are very powerful compared to the smaller Vorpal the Hexapod project. It is possible for the leg motions to pinch fingers or even possibly break fingers or cause other injuries. When powering on the Megapod you must keep fingers clear of places where the legs/hips can come together. In case of electrical issues the legs may move unexpectedly. Turning the power off will release the motors. Never let small children play with the megapod or grab at it when it's walking or moving.

If the robot is moving in an out of control manner, use a pencil, book, or rod to hit the power switch, which is large and easy to turn off.

You must at all times take standard precautions that are typical with large robotic projects.

If you are building your own electrical system please do not skimp by skipping adding the fuse to the circuit. This project may draw significant amperage and fuse protection is required.

===Step by Step Instructions===
====STEP 1: Insert accessory port screws in the chassis====
This is easier to do before the Base is assembled into a single part.
* Insert 1" #6-32 socket head screws in the bottom two holes of the accessory port with the head of the screw inside the hexapod, then secure using lock washers and nuts outside. Repeat for the top two accessory holes with shorter 3/4" #6-32 socket head screws. Two wingnuts go on the two lower screws, these will be used to secure accessories such as the Jousting Lance.
<gallery mode=packed>
File:Accessory-Port-Diagram-V2.JPG|The accessory port is considered the "front" of the robot.
File:Accessory-Port-Screws.JPG|Longer socket head screws go on the bottom. Do not overtighten the nuts.
File:Wing-Nuts-Installed.JPG|After installing the nuts, put the wingnuts on the bottom screws. They'll be used later to secure accessories.
</gallery>

====STEP 2: Build the BASE====
* STEP 1A: Take the three outer parts of the base (STL files: Base-1, Base-2, Base-3) and arrange them to form the "bowl" of the base. Make sure the servo numbers are in the right order as you move clockwise around the three parts! It's possible to assemble them in the wrong order if you don't check.
* STEP 1B: There are matching screw holes positioned on little rectangular outcroppings on the inside of the top ring, these require screws to bind the three parts together. Use three 7/8 inch socket head screws, toothed lock washers, and nuts to secure them. There is an access hole in the rim of the robot to allow the hex key to turn the screw. You may need to hold the nut in place using needle-nose pliers. Repeat for all three sections.
<gallery mode=packed heights=250>
File:Base-Exploded-View.JPG|Line up the three main pieces of the base, ensuring the servo numbers are in order.
File:Access-Hole-In-Base.jpg|Small access holes are strategically placed around the base so the hex key can turn the screws to secure the three base pieces.
File:Securing-Base-Sections.jpg|Use the access hole in the Base parts to secure screws that bind the three base parts together.
File:Megapod-Foam-Squares.jpg|Peel the backing off the foam squares that came with the kit and attach them to the bottom of the base. Stack them on top of each other.
</gallery>
* STEP 1C: Take the Base Bottom part and place it inside the base. There is a nub in one place that will only allow it to be inserted in one orientation. Use 5/8" screws in the outer ring of holes in the bottom to secure it to the base. The head of the screw should be on the outside of the robot and nuts should secure the screws on the inside. NOTE: There are six outer ring holes, however you only need three of them (one in each base section) to secure the robot. Early versions of the kit only had three 5/8" screws.
* STEP 1D: Take the foam squares that came in your kit and stick them on the bottom of the robot. (Build up several layers, they stick to each other.) These foam pads will reduce the shock and stress on the robot when it goes down to the floor on certain dance moves. Without these pads, the robot leg servos and body structure may undergo too much stress.

====STEP 3: Install the electrical system in the base====
* STEP 3A: Take the potentiometer and remove its dial cap, then unscrew the nut and set these items aside for now (don't lose them). Push the potentiometer shaft from the inside of the chassis into the hole that is surrounded by the markings "STOP", "TST", etc. The wires coming out of the potentiometer should be pointing down. The little metal nub sticking out of the potentiometer should match with a tiny rectangular hole that is near the marking "TST". Put the retaining nut on the potentiometer, hand tighten first and then give it just another half turn or so with pliers if desired. Turn the knob all the way counter-clockwise, then insert the knob so it points to the letter "O" in the word "STOP".
* STEP 3B: Take the large DPST on/off switch (which is attached to the battery holder and power distribution assembly) and thread the switch wires from the inside through the gap at the bottom of the switch hole (see picture). Carefully push the wires one by one through the slot below the switch hole. Once all the wires are through, push the switch into the switch hole. It should be oriented with the "1" to the right. Press carefully into the hole, it should snap firmly in place.
** If the fit is too tight to get the switch in place, lightly sanding or filing the hole to make it a tiny bit larger should work.
<gallery mode=packed heights=200>
File:Switch-Insert-1.jpg|Thread the switch and its wires through the Base, there is an opening under the switch hole.
File:Switch-Insert-2.jpg|Bring the wires up through the small gap below the switch hole. Be careful with the large wires, they require some pressure or some flexing of the plastic to get through.
File:Switch-Insert-3.jpg|All the wires are now coming through the switch hole.
File:Switch-Insert-4.jpg|Press the switch into the hole, it should snap into place. The "1" should be to the right.
</gallery>

====STEP 4: Insert servos in the chassis====
* Next, insert the servo into the chassis as shown in the diagrams below. As you insert the servo into the chassis, slowly press it straight into place until it fully seats. Use a servo stopper and one 1.5 inch #6 socket screw to secure the servos in place. Use the hole nearest to the front of the servo. NOTE: There are two holes in the Servo Stop but we have found that one screw is enough to hold it. The second hole could be used if you find that the plastic you use tears through the hole. We have not seen this but we added the second hole just in case.
<gallery mode=packed heights=250>
File:Servo-in-Base-2.jpg|Insert each servo with the wire coming out away from the robot as shown here. Press in completely.
File:Servo-in-Base-3.jpg|Insert a servo stopper (shown in red) and secure with one 1.5" screw in the hole nearest the front (the servo shaft and horn is in the front). Thread the wire into the body of the robot through the hole as shown.
</gallery>

====STEP 5: Insert the servos in the Legs====
The technique is very similar to inserting the servo into the chassis.
*Insert the servo straight into the leg socket so that the wire is coming out of the servo facing away from the plastic leg and the face of the servo with the shaft and servo horn goes into the open faced side of the leg, as shown in the diagram.
*Secure the servo in place with a servo stopper and one 1.5 inch screw as you did with the hip servos in the base. NOTE: There are two holes in the stopper but we have found that one screw is enough to hold it. The second hole could be used if you find that the plastic you use tears through the hole. We have not seen this but we added the second hole just in case.
*The servos in the legs are called the "knee" servos. Each leg has a higher number on it, this is the knee number, they run from 6 to 11. Again, write this number on the black connector at the end of the servo wire. PRO TIP: For 6 and 9, underline the number so you don't read them upside down!
<gallery mode=packed heights=200>
File:Servo-Insert-Leg-v2.png|Insert Servos in Legs
File:Servo-Leg-Inserted-v2.png|Push until fully seated
File:Servo-Stopper-In-Leg.jpg|Use the servo stopper and two screws to lock the servo in place
</gallery>

*Thread each leg servo wire into the bottom wire guide slot on the chassis. Each leg servo should be matched with a hip servo plus 6. The legs are marked with the hip number near the top and the knee number below that. For example, the leg marked 6 should be threaded through the wire guide on hip servo 0, leg 7 goes with hip 1, leg 8 goes with hip 2, etc. Add 6 to the hip number to get the leg number.

====STEP 6: Plug in the Servos====
Thread the servo wires into the chassis using the routing holes, as you did with the hip servos. The power distribution harness has marked servo extension sockets for each servo. Each hip servo is marked on the BASE showing its number. the knee servo for each hip is numbered six higher than its corresponding hip. For example, hip servo number 3 will be attached to knee servo number 9, because 3+6=9.

When plugging the servos in, make sure you match the light yellow servo wire to the white servo extension wire, and the dark brown servo wire should match with the black servo extension wire.

====STEP 7: Make Robot Electrical Connections====

Now use the diagram below in the electrical section to make the rest of the robot's electrical connections. You'll be using the Robot Arduino Nano (marked "R"), the Servo Driver, Bluetooth Module marked "S", the buzzer, and a bunch of jumper wires. Make sure you use the longer jumper wires for the SDA and SCL connections between the Nano and the Servo Driver.

====STEP 8: Assemble the leg hinges====
[[File:Servo-Bracket-Alignment-v1.png|thumb|350px|right|Align the leg hinges as shown here. The bumps (see arrows) should both be near each other when properly aligned. Hold one in each hand with the ends of the U shape between thumb and forefinger.]]
Each leg hinge is composed of two identical U-shaped parts. Take one in each hand and align the two so that the bump (shown in the diagram at the right) are both near each other. Turn one 90 degrees with respect to the other.
*Gently squeeze each piece between thumb and forefinger, which causes the little jaws in the center to open up slightly. Work the two halves together. Keep squeezing harder until the ends slide into place. NOTE: Make sure you printed version V1r2b or later. Earlier versions made it too difficult to squeeze the parts into place. If you printed an earlier version, you may need to trim some plastic using angle cutters to get the parts together.
*If you used PLA and are finding it hard to bend, briefly soaking the pieces in very hot tap water has been reported to make it easier. Take care not to scald yourself, the water does not have to be boiling, just hot from the tap. You only need to dip the ends that will lock over each other, not the parts you will squeeze. Use caution.
*At this stage, you may notice that the parts are loosely clamped on each other (this depends on plastic used and whether your printer over- or under-extrudes). Don't worry! When you place the leg hinges over a servo, the servo will spread it apart and they will lock together tightly.
*Insert a 608 skate bearing into the socket on one side of the leg hinges. Pliers may be necessary to press them into place. Make sure you clean up any drips inside the recessed area for the skate bearing before attempting to insert the bearings.

====STEP 9: Attach Leg Hinges====
The leg hinges connect the hips to the knees. They only go on one way. If you made sure to align the bumps when assembling the leg hinges, this will result in correct orientation of all legs.
*First place the end that matches the servo horn on about halfway. Make sure the servo horn slides under the little pocket at the end of recessed area that accepts the horn.
*Very slightly bend the U shaped piece while pulling the skate bearing side over the hemispherical bump on the other side of the servo holding area. It's a little easier to do the knees (servos mounted to legs) first, followed by the hips (servos on base).
*NOTE: It will be a tight fit, but it should not be excessively difficult to push the hinge over the hemispherical bearing. If you find you are struggling, that means the hinges are too tight. This may affect walking. This can be due to the kind of plastic you used or how your printer is adjusted. You may need to gently spread the two legs of the U shape by hand before putting the hinge on the robot. Be careful of course not to break the hinge.
*When completed, double check to make sure the servo horn went into the covered pocket at the end of its recessed area. This pocket keeps the horn from slipping out of the hinge during stressful operations.

====STEP 10: Enclose the electronics modules in their caddies====

Now things look pretty messy with all those wires hanging loose, let's clean it up by stowing the Arduino Nano, Bluetooth module and Servo Driver in their caddies. The caddies will keep them safe by making sure they can't short out against each other or touch screws, etc.
* '''STEP 10A: Insert Caddy Bars''' Insert the electronics caddy bars as shown in the diagrams below. Notice carefully how they are inserted. Don't insert them upside down, the little hump should be facing inward toward the caddy. You may need to slightly squeeze the forked section at the end to work it into the hole. Once inside, it may be difficult to remove because it will snap into place, so be sure you're putting it in the right way.
<gallery mode=packed heights=300>
File:Insert-Caddy-Bar-1.jpg|Insertion of the caddy bar into the Nano caddy. Notice the orientation, don't put the bar in upside down. The same technique is used for the Servo Driver Caddy.
</gallery>
* '''STEP 10B: Insert the Arduino Nano into its caddy''' Carefully insert the Nano as shown, making sure you don't pull out any of the wires. You may need to wiggle the caddy bar from side to side a bit so that components can slide past it during insertion. Notice that the end of the Nano that has the USB port must go in last.

<gallery mode=packed heights=250>
File:Insert-Nano-In-Caddy-1.jpg|Insert the Nano in the orientation shown.
File:Insert-Nano-In-Caddy-2.jpg|You may need to wiggle it a bit or press on the bar to work it into place.
File:Insert-Nano-In-Caddy-3.jpg|Note how the USB port is accessible through the top after full insertion.
</gallery>

* '''STEP 10C: Insert the Servo Driver into its caddy''' Carefully insert the Servo Driver as shown, making sure you don't pull out any of the wires. You may need to wiggle the caddy bar from side to side a bit so that components can slide past it during insertion. Notice that the end of the Servo controller with wires sticking out of it must go in last.

<gallery mode=packed heights=200>
File:Insert-ServoDriver-In-Caddy-1.jpg|Insert the Servo Driver in the orientation shown.
File:Insert-ServoDriver-In-Caddy-2.jpg|You may need to wiggle it a bit or press on the bar to work it into place.
File:Insert-ServoDriver-In-Caddy-3.jpg|Note that the end with the wires goes in last.
</gallery>

* '''STEP 10D: Insert the HC05 Bluetooth Module''' The diagrams here do not show the wires to make them easier to visualize. The HC05 Bluetooth module with a name beginning with "S" should be used for the robot. For example, the label will read something like "VORP S2944" (the number will differ). The one marked "M" will be used for the gamepad. Slide the HC05 into the side drawer as shown. When inserting, be careful not to pull out the wires, which will be a little tight. Work the wires into the little space provided so they stay clear of the robot's cap when it gets screwed on later.

<gallery mode=packed heights=250>
File:Insert-HC05-in-Caddy-1.jpg|Insert the HC05 into the side drawer of the Nano Caddy as shown.
File:Insert-HC05-in-Caddy-2.jpg|When fully inserted, the indicator light will still be visible through the small oval.
File:Insert-HC05-in-Caddy-3.jpg|The wires should be tucked into the little cavity near the pins of the HC05.
</gallery>

====STEP 11: Power up!====
Make sure the on/off switch is off, and the knob is turned to STOP. Insert batteries and power on the robot using the on/off switch. You should hear a beep, a pause, then a second beep. The servos should all twitch into position. If the robot does not move at all, immediately turn the switch off and check your connections again. If some of the servos don't move then gently push them with power off to see if you can free them up. If they still won't move, try pushing them with power applied, but turn off the power within 30 seconds if they're locked up. If you can't get the servo to move it will need to be replaced.

[[File:Servo-Horn-Orientation.png|thumb|right|The servo horn should come straight out from the body at a 90 degree angle as shown here. Do not turn the servo shaft by hand until after it has moved under power!]]

====STEP 12: Insert Servo Horns====
The servo horns are all at random angles right now due to the servo pre-check. In this step we'll make them point in the right direction. The knee servos are not at 90 degrees when the knob is all the way counter clockwise, rather they are at a 30 degree standing angle.

We need to get them to 90 degrees so its easy to align the servo horn, and this is done by going into "Adjust Mode". Turn the knob very slightly clockwise until you hear a beep, then stop. After about one second you will see all the knee servos twitch. This is "adjust servo horn mode". All servos (knees and hips) are now at their halfway point, 90 degrees.

Now you need to take each single arm servo horn and carefully insert it on the shaft so that it is sticking straight out as shown in the figure. You will not always be able to make the horn come totally straight out. This is because there are only 22 little groves (splines) in each shaft, meaning you can in general only come within about 8 degrees of being at a perfect 90 degree angle. This amount of error is acceptable for now, just get it as close as you can. Later we'll use Trim Mode to make fine adjustments.

====STEP 13: Test Knee Positions====
Turn the knob fully counter clockwise (to STOP) and the robot will go into "stand still" mode. Place it on a level surface such as a table top. Do all of the legs touch the ground? If one or more legs don't touch the ground, you need to adjust the servo horn on the knee a little bit so it does touch. Gently pull off the servo bracket. Pull the servo horn off, and put it back on just a little bit moved so the leg would move closer to the ground. Put the servo bracket back on, and see how it looks. Do this until all legs are at least slightly touching the ground. Again, you can't necessarily be perfect due to the 8 degree increments the servo horns can be moved. But you should be able to be close enough that all legs at least slightly touch the ground.

====STEP 14: Insert Servo Screws====
Now that the legs are adjusted, you can insert the M3x12 screws (with M3 lock washers) into the servo horns to lock them in place. Note that you will NOT be using the screws that were in the little bag the servos came in, you'll be using the separate pack of screws, which are longer than the ones in the servo bag. Do not overtighten these screws, as you could possibly crack the servo brackets. Just turn the screws until you start to feel resistance, then turn a quarter turn more and stop.

====STEP 14: Test the Servos====
*'''STEP 14A: Using TST Mode'''
**To test whether every servo is working, put the robot on something that will lift its legs off the table top, but won't interfere with the legs (a small box, etc.).
**Start with the knob on STOP, then slowly turn it clockwise. You'll hear one beep (Adjust mode), then a second beep (Test mode). Stop turning and the robot will go into "individual servo test mode". In this mode, every hip servo will move, one by one. When all the hips have moved, every leg will move, one by one. You should see every servo move, in order. If some don't move, check your connections. A common error is to plug a servo connector into the servo controller backwards (i.e. the brown wire is matched with the yellow pin instead of the black pin). If the servos do not move in a sensible order, that probably means you plugged a couple of servos into the wrong sockets in the electrical harness.

*'''STEP 14B: Test Using Demo Mode'''
**Ok, everything looks good, so time for a full test. Turn the knob to STOP, then put the robot on the floor, somewhere that has at least a few feet of room in each direction. (Caution: it's tempting to do this on a table top, but unless you have a huge table this is not advisable, Max will run pretty fast at some points during the demo.)
**Turn the knob to DEMO, and about one second later the robot will go through a series of movements to demonstrate some of the things it can do. The full demo only takes about 30 seconds, then repeats. Here, you are looking for the robot to, for example, be able to get back up off the floor after doing some of its dance moves.
**If the robot struggles to get off the floor, you may have a battery that is not fully charged, or there may be drips or other obstructions stopping some legs from moving fully. See the [[Vorpal Combat_Hexapod Troubleshooting Guide|Trouble Shooting Guide]] for more information about different kinds of issues that can occur. That guide was written for the small robot, but most of the things that can go wrong with Max the Megapod are identical to the things that can go wrong with Vorpal The Hexapod.

====STEP 15: Store electronics and wires in the Base====
Carefully stow the caddies into the base, using any available convenient space. Arrange the servo and other wires so they don't cross any screw holes. The three Base Cover parts can be used to secure everything, however you may not want to put in more than one screw each at this point, until the robot is more fully tested. Be sure the two battery connectors come through the holes provided for them in the Cover parts.
<gallery mode=packed heights=250>
File:All-Electronics-Inserted-In-Base.jpg|Carefully stow the caddies into the base, being careful not to pull out any wires. Press servo wires into place too, make sure they don't overlap any screw holes.
File:Base-Covers-3.jpg|Place the three covers in place. It is not necessary to screw them down at this point, you may want to wait until the robot is more fully tested. We normally just put in one screw on each component at this point--this makes it easy to get back into the electronics if something needs to be checked.
</gallery>

====STEP 16: Assemble the Cap====
*'''STEP 16A: Assemble the Four Cap Parts'''
**First assemble the three large pieces after removing the support coming out of the center. Be aware that there is a correct ordering to them, the two flaps that stick out near the bottom need to be opposite each other so the cap can slot into the Base and lock in place. Use 7/8" screws to secure the three parts together as shown. There are access holes around the rim that allow the hex key to reach the screws. Use nuts and locking washers to secure the screws.
**Secure the top of the cap onto the bottom three pieces using three 5/8" #6 socket screws and their associated nuts and toothed lock washers.
<gallery mode=packed heights=250>
File:Cap-Exploded.JPG|Arrangement of the four Cap parts. Note that this diagram shows the support in place, this should actually be removed prior to assembly.
File:CAP-Assembly-order.JPG|Make sure the two flaps at the rim are opposite each other when ordering the three main parts.
</gallery>
* '''STEP 16B: Put magnets in the Cap''' Insert a magnet in each magnet holder in the cap. The magnets are marked with a dot on the North pole side. It is important that this dot be showing after installation. In other words, insert the magnet with the non-dot side down. The magnet is about 2mm smaller in diameter than the hole, so you will need to use hot glue (or some other kind of glue that works on metal and plastic) to secure it.
* '''STEP 16C: Decorate''' If desired, use a permanent marker to color the Vorpal "V" on top of the Cap. Oil markers work well. On light colors of plastic a black permanent marker will also work.
* '''STEP 16D: Put Cap on the Hexapod'''
**Screw the cap on the robot by lining up the tabs with the matching slots in the rim of the base. Turn the cap clockwise to lock it in place. IMPORTANT: Do not press down on the robot to insert the cap when the robot is under power standing on its legs! You can damage the leg motors by doing this. It is best to turn the robot off, and either support the bottom of the Base with one hand and press the Cap on with the other, or set the Base down on the table top or floor with legs out to the sides so they don't take pressure.
**If the cap is too loose and swivels while the robot moves, this can be fixed by putting a bit of tape on the cap's flaps to make them a little thicker. The tightness of the cap depends a lot on printer settings, over- or under-extrusion, etc.

====STEP 17: Warning Label====
There are two a self-stick choking hazard warning labels in the hexapod parts bag. Peel the backing off one of them and place it on the bottom of the robot, near the center. Retain the second label for the gamepad.

==== Step 18: Trimming the Servos ====
When you assembled the servo horns onto the servos, you probably were not able to get them all to come out exactly at a 90 degree angle. That's not your fault: the servo horns only have 22 possible positions in which they can be installed, so at best you can come within plus or minus 8 degrees of perfection.

Now that you have the gamepad working, you can make fine adjustments to the servo positions using "Trim Mode". In this special gamepad mode, you can adjust all the servos. These adjustments are saved in the robot's EEPROM, which is memory on the Nano that retains data even when powered off. So, you only need to trim once.

Complete instructions on how to use trim mode are in the wiki page: [[Vorpal The Hexapod Trim Mode Guide]]. That guide was written for the smaller robot, but the instructions are identical for Max the Megapod.

NOTE: although this step is optional, it is recommended because your robot will walk straighter and all the servos will share equally in lifting the robot's weight, which will make them last longer.

====Step 19: Assembling Eye Decorations====
Glue a magnet into the magnet hole on both sets of eyes. The magnet should have the marked side face down, not showing.

You can use hot glue, "superglue" or any other kind of glue that works on plastic and metal.

==Electrical Connections: Robot==

===NOTES ON JUMPER WIRES===

====Wire Lengths====
There are two different lengths of female-female Dupont jumper wires used to make most connections. The longer ones (20cm) are only used for the Hexapod's accessory port connections. The shorter ones are used for all the connections on the Gamepad and all the connections on the Hexapod between the Arduino Nano, Servo controller and Bluetooth module.

====Wire Color Conventions====

Please follow these conventions when selecting wire colors:
* For +5V, Vin, and similar positive voltage connections, use either RED or ORANGE.
* For GND and other negative electrical connections, use BLACK or BROWN.
* For the connectors that sit at the mouth of the accessory port (used for optional sensors) colors are suggested below in the instructions. By following these suggestions you will make your life easier when connecting sensors!
* For all other connections, you can use any color you want, it's arbitrary.

====If Jumper Wires Are Too Loose====
Sometimes you will find a wire whose connector does not grip the pin well enough. It might fall off very easily or just by gravity alone. If that happens, you have a few options:
* There are extra wires in your kit. If you find a wire that's too loose, just use a different wire.
* Using the hex key, you can put the jumper housing on a flat surface then press on the metal showing through the plastic connector, which will tighten up the jumper wire's grip. Don't go too overboard on pressing though or you might make it too hard to insert.
* Alternatively, you could use electrical tape after inserting all the wires on a module (such as the Nano) to effectively attach together all the little plastic female connector housings. In that way, the connectors that do grip will help hold in the ones that are too loose. Some people also like using hot glue for this purpose. (Personally, I don't like using hot glue, as it makes it harder to change connections if you hooked something up incorrectly.)

===NANO PIN CONNECTIONS===
[[File:Megapod-Nano-Connections-v1.JPG|thumb|600px|right|Diagram of Nano connections for the Hexapod. Jumpers marked AP are routed to the Accessory Port for use with add-ons like sensors. Click for larger image.]]
* ''Digital IO Pins:''
** D0, D1 are reserved because they are used for uploading programs to the robot, so nothing will be connected there.
** D2, D3 No connection.
** D4 Buzzer Signal (white wire)
** D5 through D13 No connection. These pins are reserved for future expansion.

* ''Analog Pins:''
** A0 Potentiometer signal (white wire)
** A1 Potentiometer Power (red wire)
** A2 Potentiometer Ground (black wire)
** A3 No connection.
** A4 Servo Controller SDA
** A5 Servo Controller SCL
** A6, A7 No connection.

* ''Power Pins:''
** +5V pin on Nano connects to any of the +5V RED wires coming from the BEC on the power distribution harness.
** GND pin on Nano connects to any of the GND BLACK wires coming from the BEC on the power distribution harness.

===Servo Driver Power Pins===
* Port 0 RED pin on the Servo Driver connects to any of the +5V RED wires coming from the BEC on the power distribution harness.
* Port 0 BLACK GND pin on the Servo Driver connects to any of the GND BLACK wires coming from the BEC on the power distribution harness.

=== Bluetooth Module Power ===
* +5V on HC05 connects to any RED Dupont connector coming off the BEC.
* GND on HC05 connects to any BLACK Dupont connector coming off the BEC.

=== Buzzer Power ===
* Plug the buzzer into the unused port 15 on the servo driver, making sure the red and black wires on the buzzer power match the red and black rows of pins on the servo driver.

=== Servo Driver ===
[[File:Megapod-ServoDriverConnections.jpg|thumb|600px|right|Diagram of Servo Controller pins you will use in this project. Each servo motor has a 3 wire connector that should be plugged into the corresponding servo number extension connector in the power distribution harness. The white wires coming out of the harness in groups of four should be connected to the yellow line or ports, matching the number ranges to port numbers. Note that the black and red rows of pins are not used, power is provided to the servos through the power distribution harness. Click for larger image.]]
* Connect the 12 servos to power distribution harness connectors marked with port numbers corresponding to the servo marking (0 to 11). Make sure the signal wire (yellow) is oriented correctly and matches the yellow plastic header pin.
* Connect the groups of four white wires which are marked with servo port numbers to the Servo Driver yellow pins, matching the Servo Driver pin number to the port numbers written on the 4-pin Dupont connectors coming out of the power distribution harness.
* Connect one of the +5V RED regulated BEC outputs to the RED port 0 pin of the Servo Driver. Connect one of the GND black pins coming out of the BEC to the BLACK port 0 GND pin on the Servo Driver.
* On one short side of the Servo Controller you will find a VCC and V+ pin right next to each other. Use a shunt (small black connector that goes over two pins) to connect those together if one is not already installed. Without this shunt the Servo Driver will not work.
* SDA and SCL go to A4 and A5 on the Nano, respectively.



== Building the Gamepad ==
The gamepad for Max The Megapod is identical to the Gamepad for Vorpal The Hexapod.

Please see instructions on [[Vorpal_The_Hexapod_Building_Instructions#Building_the_Gamepadd|the Vorpal Hexapod Gamepad Assembly instructions]].

{{Megapod Quick Links}}

Max The Megapod Assembly Instructions

2021-06-03T14:03:48Z

Vorpalwiki: /* ROBOT BOM */

==BILL OF MATERIALS (BOM) FOR MAX THE MEGAPOD==
===Notes on Sourcing Parts Yourself===
* These instructions assume you have purchased a kit from us. If you are sourcing your own parts, please be aware of the following additional information:
**If you are sourcing your own parts, you need to build the power distribution connector assembly. For diagrams see [[Max The Megapod Battery/Switch Construction]]. This will take about 2 hours of soldering work.
**Also see important information on that page if you are sourcing your own BEC.
**If you are sourcing your own Bluetooth modules, please be aware that you will need to configure them to auto-pair and to have a UART speed of 38400 BAUD. Every module brand's firmware is a bit different so it's not possible for us to give you universal instructions on how to program them. We assume that if you source your own parts you are familiar with how to configure Bluetooth modules using AT-commands. (You can find tutorials online or videos on youtube, but like we said, different modules may not exactly match instructions you will find so be prepared to fiddle around a bit). Please do not ask our customer support for help on this topic. We sell pre-configured modules that auto-pair on boot for a very reasonable price.
**If you are sourcing your own Arduino Nano modules, you will need to flash the robot and gamepad code on them. You can find the code at the [https://github.com/vorpalrobotics/VorpalHexapod Vorpal Hexapod Repo on Github]. Note: there is no difference in software between the large and small versions of the hexapod.
* Please be very careful about substitutions. You might think you can substitute cheaper parts for the ones specified here. Don't bet on it. Walking robots are extremely difficult to design and we've chosen each part for a good reason. For example, if you try to substitute cheaper servos you are very likely to find that they don't provide enough torque for the robot to stand up, or they wear out within minutes due to being overstressed. If you substitute a different battery voltage, you'll either fry the servos or they won't have enough torque. It took 1000 hours of work to design the smaller hexapod on which this one is based, then another 500 hours to get the big version working well.
* Full kits of parts as well as individual parts are available on [http://vorpal-robotics-store.myshopify.com The Vorpal Robotics Store]. If you are new to Arduino and robotics we strongly recommend you purchase a kit instead of trying to self-source parts. The kits cut 3 to 4 hours off the build time, bringing it to typically 2 to 2.5 hours. The kits have all soldering done, programs are already loaded on the Nanos, Bluetooth modules are properly configured, and you know you have all the right parts to work together. About half the people who self-source parts end up buying parts that are incorrect or are so cheap that they will quickly fail (and they end up spending more money and far more time than if they had simply bought a kit to start with!)

=== ROBOT BOM ===
[[File:Choking-Hazard-Image.jpg|right|350px]]
[[File:PinchPoint-Warning.JPG|right|350px]]
* ''Electronics:''
** Passive Piezo Buzzer module and 3 wire cable (see image) [[File:Passive-Piezo-Buzzer-Module.jpg|right|thumb|Passive Piezo Buzzer Module]]
** Arduino Nano, 5V, 16 mHz, ATMEGA328 or similar (marked RM in our kit to indicate it is pre-loaded with megapod robot software)
** Rotary potentiometer, 10K Ohms, 6mm shaft diameter, with 3 wires pre-soldered. Also, matching dial cap and nut. If you are self-sourcing see our instructions: [[Max The Megapod Battery/Switch Construction]]
** 1 x HC05 BlueTooth Module with 4 x F-F jumper wires for making connections (Note: the HC05 has six pins but only four are used in this project. Also, this is in the Gamepad Parts bag if you purchase our kit.)
** 1 x Servo Controller module (Adafruit 16-channel 12-bit I2C PWM/Servo driver or Adafruit clone) with F-F jumper wires for making connections, plus 1 two-pin shunt tying V+ to VCC
** 12 x MG958 servo motors and associated servo horns (you will only use the single-arm horn). NOTE: our kits come with one extra servo as a spare, there are 13 in the kit but only 12 are needed. We recommend 25T size metal horns for the knee servos (the ones that insert into the legs). We provide six metal horns with our kits as of November 2019. The plastic horns will wear out on the knee servos after about 4 to 8 hours of use and their splines will strip.
** 1 x Power distribution wiring harness with DPST on/off switch, Fuse, Tamiya battery connector, 3A 5V BEC, and servo extension connectors. If you are self-sourcing see our wiring instructions: [[Max The Megapod Battery/Switch Construction|Circuit Diagrams]].
* ''3D Printed Parts:''
** 3 Robot Base Parts and bottom plate to hold the parts together.
** 3 Robot Base Covers (used to enclose wiring inside the Base).
** 4 Cap parts which screw together to form the cap of the robot.
** 6 x Legs
** 12 x Servo Stops. These parts hold the servos in their compartments both in the base and the legs.
** 12 x Leg Hinge halves with Leg Hinge Rings. The rings stop layer separation issues under stress.
** 1 x Electronics Caddy to hold nano and servo controller
** 2 x Eye/glasses Decoration
* Screws and Fasteners
** 12 x button head screw, M3 x 12mm long with M3 toothed lock washers (for servo horns)
** 6 x #6-32 x 7/8" socket head screws (to fasten together "bowl" of base and cap parts).
** 3 x #6-32 x 5/8" socket head screws (to fasten top of cap onto cap bowl)
** 12 x #6-32 x 1.5" socket head cap screws for securing servos in their sockets.
** 2 x #6-32 1” socket head screw (for accessory port)
** 2 x #6-32 0.75" socket head screw (for accessory port)
** 2 x #6 wingnut (for accessory port)
** 19 x #6 nut
** 19 x #6 toothed lock washer
** 9 x #6-32 7/8” socket head screws with lock washers (for fastening Base and Cap sections together)
* ''Miscellaneous:''
** 12 x 608 Skate Bearings
** 8 x 18mm diameter ceramic magnet, approximately 5mm thick, north pole marked. 6 are for robot top, 2 for eye/glasses decorations
** 1 x T handle hex driver, 2mm, for button head screws.
** 1 x T handle hex driver, 7/64" for socket head screws.
* Tools not included in the kit:
** Needle nose pliers are useful for holding the nuts while assembling BASE and CAP parts.
** Slip-pliers are useful for forcing skate bearings into their press-fit locations on the Leg Hinges
** Hot glue gun and glue sticks for securing magnets. You can also use cyanoacrylate glue (i.e. "super glue") or any glue that works on both plastic and metal.
** If you have an electric screwdriver this will make assembly of the servo stops much faster. You would need a 7/64" hex key attachment.

=== GAMEPAD ===
The gamepad for Max The Megapod is identical to the gamepad for Vorpal The Hexapod. See instructions for the gamepad here: [[Vorpal_The_Hexapod_Building_Instructions#Building_the_Gamepadd|Vorpal The Hexapod Gamepad Assembly instructions]]

==Printing the Plastic Parts==

This section assumes you have basic familiarity with 3D printing and 3D printing terminology. If not, you might want to reference online materials such as youtube videos or information from your 3D printer manufacturer before attempting this project.

===OBTAINING THE STL FILES===
We have posted the STL files our public dropbox folder: [http://tinyurl.com/VORPALFILES VORPAL FILES]. Go to the STL folder, then the GAMEPAD and MEGAPOD folders have the files you need. (The same gamepad is shared among all our hexapod projects).

Please post your builds to places like Thingiverse, pictures to FaceBook, Instagram, etc., and videos of your robot to YouTube! This will help us grow and continue having the resources creating cool new projects for our community.

===MINIMUM PRINTER REQUIREMENTS===
*The bed size should be at least 200mm cube (about 8 inches cube). The largest parts are the megapod Base-1, Base-2, and Base-3 parts, so it is the limiting factor on bed size.
*A heated bed is strongly recommended, especially if you are printing in ABS.
*An enclosure is recommended, especially if printing in ABS.
===AMOUNT OF PLASTIC FILAMENT===
* About 2.5 kg of plastic are needed to print the entire robot and gamepad. This does not include accessories like Joust attachments, etc.
* The amount of plastic used does depend on plastic type and exact print settings though, so your mileage may vary.
===RECOMMENDED PLASTICS===
*ABS, PETG, and PLA all work well. However, because there are some very large parts, ABS may cause you some warping issues if you don't have a heated bed, enclosure, and a printer tuned well for large parts. PLA is generally easier and has fewer issues with corners peeling off the print bed.
*We use eSun PLA PRO for this project and for us it works very well. PLA PRO is a little more flexible and stronger than typical PLA. We have no problems with warping even on the largest parts.
*This project requires less flexibility than the smaller Vorpal The Hexapod project, so ABS is less required for this project.
===PRINTING TIPS===
This project has been finely tuned to make it easy to 3D print. No supports are required for any of the parts (there is a support built into the models for the CAP parts). In some cases you may want to use brims or rafts to help parts adhere to the print surface.

There is some significant bridging with some spans up to 30mm (1.2"). It is important to tune your printer and make sure it can handle the bridging before attempting the large parts. A little sagging is ok and a drip or two can be easily removed, but you need decent ability to bridge. There are bridge testing and calibration models posted on sites like Thingiverse that may help you tune your printer before trying the big parts.

====PRINT SETTINGS====
We print using the following settings on a Lulzbot TAZ 6 with 0.5mm nozzle:
* 0.4 layer thickness (or whatever layer thickness is the largest that will work on your printer)
* 2mm walls (i.e. four perimeters for a 0.5mm nozzle)
* 1.6 mm top and bottom (i.e. four layers at 0.4mm layer height)
* 25% infill
* You can print with thinner layers if your printer does not support 0.4mm layers or if you want a more refined look, it will just take longer. If you have a large nozzle (0.8mm or more) you should be able to go with bigger layers and save a lot of print time. Please report your findings to us at support@vorpalrobotics.com so we can advise future Makers of this project.
====BRIMS AND RAFTS====
* Brims or rafts are recommended for the following hexapod parts: Base, Legs, Cap. This ensures proper bed retention to avoid warping. These parts have relatively little contact area with the print bed, or have certain sections with little contact.
*If you have a very well dialed-in printer and have no issues with warping or corners curling up during prints, you can try them without brims. We don't use brims on anything but we've printed thousands of parts and we keep our printers very well tuned all the time with weekly maintenance and adjustments.
*These parts are large so if you don't use brims and things don't work out you might kill half a roll of plastic ... so maybe just use brims, it only adds a few minutes of cleanup time.
* Brims/rafts are not recommended on any of the other parts. The other parts generally have enough bed surface contact that they will print fine without brims. Your mileage may vary however and it is recommended that you keep a close eye on the first few layers of the print to make sure everything is sticking properly.
* We personally prefer brims over rafts (such as available in Cura and Simplify3D) as they are easy to remove and leave a clean look.
====POST PRINT====
Other than removing brims/rafts and the occasional drip, there is not any special post-processing required after printing. Some of the big bridges might seem a little saggy but generally speaking there's enough tolerance that this won't cause an issue. The biggest bridges are mostly hidden inside the robot so they won't affect cosmetics.

====PRO TIPS====
*Do routine maintenance on your printer before printing the big parts: lubricate rods and lead screws, check bed leveling, replace nozzle if worn, do a calibration print, clean your print surface, etc. A few minutes of preparation will help you nail these prints and make a project you can be very proud of!
*Print the large parts (Base, Cap) at the ''start'' of new spools. The last thing you want is to run out of filament 95% of the way through a big part.
*Print the smallest parts (servo stops, hinge rings, gamepad drawer) near the end of a spool.
*If you have a large format printer, it is tempting to kick off all three Base parts at once and let it run overnight. We would recommend against that--the chances of killing an entire spool of filament due to an overnight power hit or other failure is just not worth it. Take your time, do the big parts one by one. One or two during the day, one overnight. It will all get done soon enough. An extra couple of days won't matter in the long run.

== Building the Robot ==

You will need the following tools:
*Included in the kit:
** 2mm hex key. A 5/64 inch hex key will also work. This is in the Megapod Parts bag.
** 7/64 hex key at least 6" long (150mm). It needs to be long enough to reach screws through access holes in the Base and Cap. This is in the Megapod Parts Bag.
*Not included in the kit:
** Optional: A marker that can write on dark plastic and still be seen, such as Sharpie Metallic or Sharpie Oil markers (white and yellow work great on dark colored plastic, black or blue work well on light colored plastic). This can be used to make raised lettering on the robot and gamepad more visible.
** Optional: Needle nose pliers can be helpful for holding nuts in place while tightening screws.
** Optional: Slip-joint pliers can be helpful for forcing the skate bearings into their press-fit locations on the Leg Hinges
** Optional: An electric screwdriver with a 7/64" hex key attachment will greatly speed up the process of locking the servos in place using the servo stop parts. There are 12 long screws to insert. Do yourself a favor, electric screwdrivers are not expensive these days and are very handy.

===IMPORTANT WARNING: POWERFUL SERVOS MAY INJURE YOU===
The motors on Max the Megapod are very powerful compared to the smaller Vorpal the Hexapod project. It is possible for the leg motions to pinch fingers or even possibly break fingers or cause other injuries. When powering on the Megapod you must keep fingers clear of places where the legs/hips can come together. In case of electrical issues the legs may move unexpectedly. Turning the power off will release the motors. Never let small children play with the megapod or grab at it when it's walking or moving.

If the robot is moving in an out of control manner, use a pencil, book, or rod to hit the power switch, which is large and easy to turn off.

You must at all times take standard precautions that are typical with large robotic projects.

If you are building your own electrical system please do not skimp by skipping adding the fuse to the circuit. This project may draw significant amperage and fuse protection is required.

===Step by Step Instructions===
====STEP 1: Insert accessory port screws in the chassis====
This is easier to do before the Base is assembled into a single part.
* Insert 1" #6-32 socket head screws in the bottom two holes of the accessory port with the head of the screw inside the hexapod, then secure using lock washers and nuts outside. Repeat for the top two accessory holes with shorter 3/4" #6-32 socket head screws. Two wingnuts go on the two lower screws, these will be used to secure accessories such as the Jousting Lance.
<gallery mode=packed>
File:Accessory-Port-Diagram-V2.JPG|The accessory port is considered the "front" of the robot.
File:Accessory-Port-Screws.JPG|Longer socket head screws go on the bottom. Do not overtighten the nuts.
File:Wing-Nuts-Installed.JPG|After installing the nuts, put the wingnuts on the bottom screws. They'll be used later to secure accessories.
</gallery>

====STEP 2: Build the BASE====
* STEP 1A: Take the three outer parts of the base (STL files: Base-1, Base-2, Base-3) and arrange them to form the "bowl" of the base. Make sure the servo numbers are in the right order as you move clockwise around the three parts! It's possible to assemble them in the wrong order if you don't check.
* STEP 1B: There are matching screw holes positioned on little rectangular outcroppings on the inside of the top ring, these require screws to bind the three parts together. Use three 7/8 inch socket head screws, toothed lock washers, and nuts to secure them. There is an access hole in the rim of the robot to allow the hex key to turn the screw. You may need to hold the nut in place using needle-nose pliers. Repeat for all three sections.
<gallery mode=packed heights=250>
File:Base-Exploded-View.JPG|Line up the three main pieces of the base, ensuring the servo numbers are in order.
File:Access-Hole-In-Base.jpg|Small access holes are strategically placed around the base so the hex key can turn the screws to secure the three base pieces.
File:Securing-Base-Sections.jpg|Use the access hole in the Base parts to secure screws that bind the three base parts together.
File:Megapod-Foam-Squares.jpg|Peel the backing off the foam squares that came with the kit and attach them to the bottom of the base. Stack them on top of each other.
</gallery>
* STEP 1C: Take the Base Bottom part and place it inside the base. There is a nub in one place that will only allow it to be inserted in one orientation. Use 5/8" screws in the outer ring of holes in the bottom to secure it to the base. The head of the screw should be on the outside of the robot and nuts should secure the screws on the inside. NOTE: There are six outer ring holes, however you only need three of them (one in each base section) to secure the robot. Early versions of the kit only had three 5/8" screws.
* STEP 1D: Take the foam squares that came in your kit and stick them on the bottom of the robot. (Build up several layers, they stick to each other.) These foam pads will reduce the shock and stress on the robot when it goes down to the floor on certain dance moves. Without these pads, the robot leg servos and body structure may undergo too much stress.

====STEP 3: Install the electrical system in the base====
* STEP 3A: Take the potentiometer and remove its dial cap, then unscrew the nut and set these items aside for now (don't lose them). Push the potentiometer shaft from the inside of the chassis into the hole that is surrounded by the markings "STOP", "TST", etc. The wires coming out of the potentiometer should be pointing down. The little metal nub sticking out of the potentiometer should match with a tiny rectangular hole that is near the marking "TST". Put the retaining nut on the potentiometer, hand tighten first and then give it just another half turn or so with pliers if desired. Turn the knob all the way counter-clockwise, then insert the knob so it points to the letter "O" in the word "STOP".
* STEP 3B: Take the large DPST on/off switch (which is attached to the battery holder and power distribution assembly) and thread the switch wires from the inside through the gap at the bottom of the switch hole (see picture). Carefully push the wires one by one through the slot below the switch hole. Once all the wires are through, push the switch into the switch hole. It should be oriented with the "1" to the right. Press carefully into the hole, it should snap firmly in place.
** If the fit is too tight to get the switch in place, lightly sanding or filing the hole to make it a tiny bit larger should work.
<gallery mode=packed heights=200>
File:Switch-Insert-1.jpg|Thread the switch and its wires through the Base, there is an opening under the switch hole.
File:Switch-Insert-2.jpg|Bring the wires up through the small gap below the switch hole. Be careful with the large wires, they require some pressure or some flexing of the plastic to get through.
File:Switch-Insert-3.jpg|All the wires are now coming through the switch hole.
File:Switch-Insert-4.jpg|Press the switch into the hole, it should snap into place. The "1" should be to the right.
</gallery>

====STEP 4: Insert servos in the chassis====
* Next, insert the servo into the chassis as shown in the diagrams below. As you insert the servo into the chassis, slowly press it straight into place until it fully seats. Use a servo stopper and one 1.5 inch #6 socket screw to secure the servos in place. Use the hole nearest to the front of the servo. NOTE: There are two holes in the Servo Stop but we have found that one screw is enough to hold it. The second hole could be used if you find that the plastic you use tears through the hole. We have not seen this but we added the second hole just in case.
<gallery mode=packed heights=250>
File:Servo-in-Base-2.jpg|Insert each servo with the wire coming out away from the robot as shown here. Press in completely.
File:Servo-in-Base-3.jpg|Insert a servo stopper (shown in red) and secure with one 1.5" screw in the hole nearest the front (the servo shaft and horn is in the front). Thread the wire into the body of the robot through the hole as shown.
</gallery>

====STEP 5: Insert the servos in the Legs====
The technique is very similar to inserting the servo into the chassis.
*Insert the servo straight into the leg socket so that the wire is coming out of the servo facing away from the plastic leg and the face of the servo with the shaft and servo horn goes into the open faced side of the leg, as shown in the diagram.
*Secure the servo in place with a servo stopper and one 1.5 inch screw as you did with the hip servos in the base. NOTE: There are two holes in the stopper but we have found that one screw is enough to hold it. The second hole could be used if you find that the plastic you use tears through the hole. We have not seen this but we added the second hole just in case.
*The servos in the legs are called the "knee" servos. Each leg has a higher number on it, this is the knee number, they run from 6 to 11. Again, write this number on the black connector at the end of the servo wire. PRO TIP: For 6 and 9, underline the number so you don't read them upside down!
<gallery mode=packed heights=200>
File:Servo-Insert-Leg-v2.png|Insert Servos in Legs
File:Servo-Leg-Inserted-v2.png|Push until fully seated
File:Servo-Stopper-In-Leg.jpg|Use the servo stopper and two screws to lock the servo in place
</gallery>

*Thread each leg servo wire into the bottom wire guide slot on the chassis. Each leg servo should be matched with a hip servo plus 6. The legs are marked with the hip number near the top and the knee number below that. For example, the leg marked 6 should be threaded through the wire guide on hip servo 0, leg 7 goes with hip 1, leg 8 goes with hip 2, etc. Add 6 to the hip number to get the leg number.

====STEP 6: Plug in the Servos====
Thread the servo wires into the chassis using the routing holes, as you did with the hip servos. The power distribution harness has marked servo extension sockets for each servo. Each hip servo is marked on the BASE showing its number. the knee servo for each hip is numbered six higher than its corresponding hip. For example, hip servo number 3 will be attached to knee servo number 9, because 3+6=9.

When plugging the servos in, make sure you match the light yellow servo wire to the white servo extension wire, and the dark brown servo wire should match with the black servo extension wire.

====STEP 7: Make Robot Electrical Connections====

Now use the diagram below in the electrical section to make the rest of the robot's electrical connections. You'll be using the Robot Arduino Nano (marked "R"), the Servo Driver, Bluetooth Module marked "S", the buzzer, and a bunch of jumper wires. Make sure you use the longer jumper wires for the SDA and SCL connections between the Nano and the Servo Driver.

====STEP 8: Assemble the leg hinges====
[[File:Servo-Bracket-Alignment-v1.png|thumb|350px|right|Align the leg hinges as shown here. The bumps (see arrows) should both be near each other when properly aligned. Hold one in each hand with the ends of the U shape between thumb and forefinger.]]
Each leg hinge is composed of two identical U-shaped parts. Take one in each hand and align the two so that the bump (shown in the diagram at the right) are both near each other. Turn one 90 degrees with respect to the other.
*Gently squeeze each piece between thumb and forefinger, which causes the little jaws in the center to open up slightly. Work the two halves together. Keep squeezing harder until the ends slide into place. NOTE: Make sure you printed version V1r2b or later. Earlier versions made it too difficult to squeeze the parts into place. If you printed an earlier version, you may need to trim some plastic using angle cutters to get the parts together.
*If you used PLA and are finding it hard to bend, briefly soaking the pieces in very hot tap water has been reported to make it easier. Take care not to scald yourself, the water does not have to be boiling, just hot from the tap. You only need to dip the ends that will lock over each other, not the parts you will squeeze. Use caution.
*At this stage, you may notice that the parts are loosely clamped on each other (this depends on plastic used and whether your printer over- or under-extrudes). Don't worry! When you place the leg hinges over a servo, the servo will spread it apart and they will lock together tightly.
*Insert a 608 skate bearing into the socket on one side of the leg hinges. Pliers may be necessary to press them into place. Make sure you clean up any drips inside the recessed area for the skate bearing before attempting to insert the bearings.

====STEP 9: Attach Leg Hinges====
The leg hinges connect the hips to the knees. They only go on one way. If you made sure to align the bumps when assembling the leg hinges, this will result in correct orientation of all legs.
*First place the end that matches the servo horn on about halfway. Make sure the servo horn slides under the little pocket at the end of recessed area that accepts the horn.
*Very slightly bend the U shaped piece while pulling the skate bearing side over the hemispherical bump on the other side of the servo holding area. It's a little easier to do the knees (servos mounted to legs) first, followed by the hips (servos on base).
*NOTE: It will be a tight fit, but it should not be excessively difficult to push the hinge over the hemispherical bearing. If you find you are struggling, that means the hinges are too tight. This may affect walking. This can be due to the kind of plastic you used or how your printer is adjusted. You may need to gently spread the two legs of the U shape by hand before putting the hinge on the robot. Be careful of course not to break the hinge.
*When completed, double check to make sure the servo horn went into the covered pocket at the end of its recessed area. This pocket keeps the horn from slipping out of the hinge during stressful operations.

====STEP 10: Enclose the electronics modules in their caddies====

Now things look pretty messy with all those wires hanging loose, let's clean it up by stowing the Arduino Nano, Bluetooth module and Servo Driver in their caddies. The caddies will keep them safe by making sure they can't short out against each other or touch screws, etc.
* '''STEP 10A: Insert Caddy Bars''' Insert the electronics caddy bars as shown in the diagrams below. Notice carefully how they are inserted. Don't insert them upside down, the little hump should be facing inward toward the caddy. You may need to slightly squeeze the forked section at the end to work it into the hole. Once inside, it may be difficult to remove because it will snap into place, so be sure you're putting it in the right way.
<gallery mode=packed heights=300>
File:Insert-Caddy-Bar-1.jpg|Insertion of the caddy bar into the Nano caddy. Notice the orientation, don't put the bar in upside down. The same technique is used for the Servo Driver Caddy.
</gallery>
* '''STEP 10B: Insert the Arduino Nano into its caddy''' Carefully insert the Nano as shown, making sure you don't pull out any of the wires. You may need to wiggle the caddy bar from side to side a bit so that components can slide past it during insertion. Notice that the end of the Nano that has the USB port must go in last.

<gallery mode=packed heights=250>
File:Insert-Nano-In-Caddy-1.jpg|Insert the Nano in the orientation shown.
File:Insert-Nano-In-Caddy-2.jpg|You may need to wiggle it a bit or press on the bar to work it into place.
File:Insert-Nano-In-Caddy-3.jpg|Note how the USB port is accessible through the top after full insertion.
</gallery>

* '''STEP 10C: Insert the Servo Driver into its caddy''' Carefully insert the Servo Driver as shown, making sure you don't pull out any of the wires. You may need to wiggle the caddy bar from side to side a bit so that components can slide past it during insertion. Notice that the end of the Servo controller with wires sticking out of it must go in last.

<gallery mode=packed heights=200>
File:Insert-ServoDriver-In-Caddy-1.jpg|Insert the Servo Driver in the orientation shown.
File:Insert-ServoDriver-In-Caddy-2.jpg|You may need to wiggle it a bit or press on the bar to work it into place.
File:Insert-ServoDriver-In-Caddy-3.jpg|Note that the end with the wires goes in last.
</gallery>

* '''STEP 10D: Insert the HC05 Bluetooth Module''' The diagrams here do not show the wires to make them easier to visualize. The HC05 Bluetooth module with a name beginning with "S" should be used for the robot. For example, the label will read something like "VORP S2944" (the number will differ). The one marked "M" will be used for the gamepad. Slide the HC05 into the side drawer as shown. When inserting, be careful not to pull out the wires, which will be a little tight. Work the wires into the little space provided so they stay clear of the robot's cap when it gets screwed on later.

<gallery mode=packed heights=250>
File:Insert-HC05-in-Caddy-1.jpg|Insert the HC05 into the side drawer of the Nano Caddy as shown.
File:Insert-HC05-in-Caddy-2.jpg|When fully inserted, the indicator light will still be visible through the small oval.
File:Insert-HC05-in-Caddy-3.jpg|The wires should be tucked into the little cavity near the pins of the HC05.
</gallery>

====STEP 11: Power up!====
Make sure the on/off switch is off, and the knob is turned to STOP. Insert batteries and power on the robot using the on/off switch. You should hear a beep, a pause, then a second beep. The servos should all twitch into position. If the robot does not move at all, immediately turn the switch off and check your connections again. If some of the servos don't move then gently push them with power off to see if you can free them up. If they still won't move, try pushing them with power applied, but turn off the power within 30 seconds if they're locked up. If you can't get the servo to move it will need to be replaced.

[[File:Servo-Horn-Orientation.png|thumb|right|The servo horn should come straight out from the body at a 90 degree angle as shown here. Do not turn the servo shaft by hand until after it has moved under power!]]

====STEP 12: Insert Servo Horns====
The servo horns are all at random angles right now due to the servo pre-check. In this step we'll make them point in the right direction. The knee servos are not at 90 degrees when the knob is all the way counter clockwise, rather they are at a 30 degree standing angle.

We need to get them to 90 degrees so its easy to align the servo horn, and this is done by going into "Adjust Mode". Turn the knob very slightly clockwise until you hear a beep, then stop. After about one second you will see all the knee servos twitch. This is "adjust servo horn mode". All servos (knees and hips) are now at their halfway point, 90 degrees.

Now you need to take each single arm servo horn and carefully insert it on the shaft so that it is sticking straight out as shown in the figure. You will not always be able to make the horn come totally straight out. This is because there are only 22 little groves (splines) in each shaft, meaning you can in general only come within about 8 degrees of being at a perfect 90 degree angle. This amount of error is acceptable for now, just get it as close as you can. Later we'll use Trim Mode to make fine adjustments.

====STEP 13: Test Knee Positions====
Turn the knob fully counter clockwise (to STOP) and the robot will go into "stand still" mode. Place it on a level surface such as a table top. Do all of the legs touch the ground? If one or more legs don't touch the ground, you need to adjust the servo horn on the knee a little bit so it does touch. Gently pull off the servo bracket. Pull the servo horn off, and put it back on just a little bit moved so the leg would move closer to the ground. Put the servo bracket back on, and see how it looks. Do this until all legs are at least slightly touching the ground. Again, you can't necessarily be perfect due to the 8 degree increments the servo horns can be moved. But you should be able to be close enough that all legs at least slightly touch the ground.

====STEP 14: Insert Servo Screws====
Now that the legs are adjusted, you can insert the M3x12 screws (with M3 lock washers) into the servo horns to lock them in place. Note that you will NOT be using the screws that were in the little bag the servos came in, you'll be using the separate pack of screws, which are longer than the ones in the servo bag. Do not overtighten these screws, as you could possibly crack the servo brackets. Just turn the screws until you start to feel resistance, then turn a quarter turn more and stop.

====STEP 14: Test the Servos====
*'''STEP 14A: Using TST Mode'''
**To test whether every servo is working, put the robot on something that will lift its legs off the table top, but won't interfere with the legs (a small box, etc.).
**Start with the knob on STOP, then slowly turn it clockwise. You'll hear one beep (Adjust mode), then a second beep (Test mode). Stop turning and the robot will go into "individual servo test mode". In this mode, every hip servo will move, one by one. When all the hips have moved, every leg will move, one by one. You should see every servo move, in order. If some don't move, check your connections. A common error is to plug a servo connector into the servo controller backwards (i.e. the brown wire is matched with the yellow pin instead of the black pin). If the servos do not move in a sensible order, that probably means you plugged a couple of servos into the wrong sockets in the electrical harness.

*'''STEP 14B: Test Using Demo Mode'''
**Ok, everything looks good, so time for a full test. Turn the knob to STOP, then put the robot on the floor, somewhere that has at least a few feet of room in each direction. (Caution: it's tempting to do this on a table top, but unless you have a huge table this is not advisable, Max will run pretty fast at some points during the demo.)
**Turn the knob to DEMO, and about one second later the robot will go through a series of movements to demonstrate some of the things it can do. The full demo only takes about 30 seconds, then repeats. Here, you are looking for the robot to, for example, be able to get back up off the floor after doing some of its dance moves.
**If the robot struggles to get off the floor, you may have a battery that is not fully charged, or there may be drips or other obstructions stopping some legs from moving fully. See the [[Vorpal Combat_Hexapod Troubleshooting Guide|Trouble Shooting Guide]] for more information about different kinds of issues that can occur. That guide was written for the small robot, but most of the things that can go wrong with Max the Megapod are identical to the things that can go wrong with Vorpal The Hexapod.

====STEP 15: Store electronics and wires in the Base====
Carefully stow the caddies into the base, using any available convenient space. Arrange the servo and other wires so they don't cross any screw holes. The three Base Cover parts can be used to secure everything, however you may not want to put in more than one screw each at this point, until the robot is more fully tested. Be sure the two battery connectors come through the holes provided for them in the Cover parts.
<gallery mode=packed heights=250>
File:All-Electronics-Inserted-In-Base.jpg|Carefully stow the caddies into the base, being careful not to pull out any wires. Press servo wires into place too, make sure they don't overlap any screw holes.
File:Base-Covers-3.jpg|Place the three covers in place. It is not necessary to screw them down at this point, you may want to wait until the robot is more fully tested. We normally just put in one screw on each component at this point--this makes it easy to get back into the electronics if something needs to be checked.
</gallery>

====STEP 16: Assemble the Cap====
*'''STEP 16A: Assemble the Four Cap Parts'''
**First assemble the three large pieces after removing the support coming out of the center. Be aware that there is a correct ordering to them, the two flaps that stick out near the bottom need to be opposite each other so the cap can slot into the Base and lock in place. Use 7/8" screws to secure the three parts together as shown. There are access holes around the rim that allow the hex key to reach the screws. Use nuts and locking washers to secure the screws.
**Secure the top of the cap onto the bottom three pieces using three 5/8" #6 socket screws and their associated nuts and toothed lock washers.
<gallery mode=packed heights=250>
File:Cap-Exploded.JPG|Arrangement of the four Cap parts. Note that this diagram shows the support in place, this should actually be removed prior to assembly.
File:CAP-Assembly-order.JPG|Make sure the two flaps at the rim are opposite each other when ordering the three main parts.
</gallery>
* '''STEP 16B: Put magnets in the Cap''' Insert a magnet in each magnet holder in the cap. The magnets are marked with a dot on the North pole side. It is important that this dot be showing after installation. In other words, insert the magnet with the non-dot side down. The magnet is about 2mm smaller in diameter than the hole, so you will need to use hot glue (or some other kind of glue that works on metal and plastic) to secure it.
* '''STEP 16C: Decorate''' If desired, use a permanent marker to color the Vorpal "V" on top of the Cap. Oil markers work well. On light colors of plastic a black permanent marker will also work.
* '''STEP 16D: Put Cap on the Hexapod'''
**Screw the cap on the robot by lining up the tabs with the matching slots in the rim of the base. Turn the cap clockwise to lock it in place. IMPORTANT: Do not press down on the robot to insert the cap when the robot is under power standing on its legs! You can damage the leg motors by doing this. It is best to turn the robot off, and either support the bottom of the Base with one hand and press the Cap on with the other, or set the Base down on the table top or floor with legs out to the sides so they don't take pressure.
**If the cap is too loose and swivels while the robot moves, this can be fixed by putting a bit of tape on the cap's flaps to make them a little thicker. The tightness of the cap depends a lot on printer settings, over- or under-extrusion, etc.

====STEP 17: Warning Label====
There are two a self-stick choking hazard warning labels in the hexapod parts bag. Peel the backing off one of them and place it on the bottom of the robot, near the center. Retain the second label for the gamepad.

==== Step 18: Trimming the Servos ====
When you assembled the servo horns onto the servos, you probably were not able to get them all to come out exactly at a 90 degree angle. That's not your fault: the servo horns only have 22 possible positions in which they can be installed, so at best you can come within plus or minus 8 degrees of perfection.

Now that you have the gamepad working, you can make fine adjustments to the servo positions using "Trim Mode". In this special gamepad mode, you can adjust all the servos. These adjustments are saved in the robot's EEPROM, which is memory on the Nano that retains data even when powered off. So, you only need to trim once.

Complete instructions on how to use trim mode are in the wiki page: [[Vorpal The Hexapod Trim Mode Guide]]. That guide was written for the smaller robot, but the instructions are identical for Max the Megapod.

NOTE: although this step is optional, it is recommended because your robot will walk straighter and all the servos will share equally in lifting the robot's weight, which will make them last longer.

====Step 19: Assembling Eye Decorations====
Glue a magnet into the magnet hole on both sets of eyes. The magnet should have the marked side face down, not showing.

You can use hot glue, "superglue" or any other kind of glue that works on plastic and metal.

==Electrical Connections: Robot==

===NOTES ON JUMPER WIRES===

====Wire Lengths====
There are two different lengths of female-female Dupont jumper wires used to make most connections. The longer ones (20cm) are only used for the Hexapod's accessory port connections. The shorter ones are used for all the connections on the Gamepad and all the connections on the Hexapod between the Arduino Nano, Servo controller and Bluetooth module.

====Wire Color Conventions====

Please follow these conventions when selecting wire colors:
* For +5V, Vin, and similar positive voltage connections, use either RED or ORANGE.
* For GND and other negative electrical connections, use BLACK or BROWN.
* For the connectors that sit at the mouth of the accessory port (used for optional sensors) colors are suggested below in the instructions. By following these suggestions you will make your life easier when connecting sensors!
* For all other connections, you can use any color you want, it's arbitrary.

====If Jumper Wires Are Too Loose====
Sometimes you will find a wire whose connector does not grip the pin well enough. It might fall off very easily or just by gravity alone. If that happens, you have a few options:
* There are extra wires in your kit. If you find a wire that's too loose, just use a different wire.
* Using the hex key, you can put the jumper housing on a flat surface then press on the metal showing through the plastic connector, which will tighten up the jumper wire's grip. Don't go too overboard on pressing though or you might make it too hard to insert.
* Alternatively, you could use electrical tape after inserting all the wires on a module (such as the Nano) to effectively attach together all the little plastic female connector housings. In that way, the connectors that do grip will help hold in the ones that are too loose. Some people also like using hot glue for this purpose. (Personally, I don't like using hot glue, as it makes it harder to change connections if you hooked something up incorrectly.)

===NANO PIN CONNECTIONS===
[[File:Megapod-Nano-Connections-v1.JPG|thumb|600px|right|Diagram of Nano connections for the Hexapod. Jumpers marked AP are routed to the Accessory Port for use with add-ons like sensors. Click for larger image.]]
* ''Digital IO Pins:''
** D0, D1 are reserved because they are used for uploading programs to the robot, so nothing will be connected there.
** D2, D3 No connection.
** D4 Buzzer Signal (white wire)
** D5 through D13 No connection. These pins are reserved for future expansion.

* ''Analog Pins:''
** A0 Potentiometer signal (white wire)
** A1 Potentiometer Power (red wire)
** A2 Potentiometer Ground (black wire)
** A3 No connection.
** A4 Servo Controller SDA
** A5 Servo Controller SCL
** A6, A7 No connection.

* ''Power Pins:''
** +5V pin on Nano connects to any of the +5V RED wires coming from the BEC on the power distribution harness.
** GND pin on Nano connects to any of the GND BLACK wires coming from the BEC on the power distribution harness.

===Servo Driver Power Pins===
* Port 0 RED pin on the Servo Driver connects to any of the +5V RED wires coming from the BEC on the power distribution harness.
* Port 0 BLACK GND pin on the Servo Driver connects to any of the GND BLACK wires coming from the BEC on the power distribution harness.

=== Bluetooth Module Power ===
* +5V on HC05 connects to any RED Dupont connector coming off the BEC.
* GND on HC05 connects to any BLACK Dupont connector coming off the BEC.

=== Buzzer Power ===
* Plug the buzzer into the unused port 15 on the servo driver, making sure the red and black wires on the buzzer power match the red and black rows of pins on the servo driver.

=== Servo Driver ===
[[File:Megapod-ServoDriverConnections.jpg|thumb|600px|right|Diagram of Servo Controller pins you will use in this project. Each servo motor has a 3 wire connector that should be plugged into the corresponding servo number extension connector in the power distribution harness. The white wires coming out of the harness in groups of four should be connected to the yellow line or ports, matching the number ranges to port numbers. Note that the black and red rows of pins are not used, power is provided to the servos through the power distribution harness. Click for larger image.]]
* Connect the 12 servos to power distribution harness connectors marked with port numbers corresponding to the servo marking (0 to 11). Make sure the signal wire (yellow) is oriented correctly and matches the yellow plastic header pin.
* Connect the groups of four white wires which are marked with servo port numbers to the Servo Driver yellow pins, matching the Servo Driver pin number to the port numbers written on the 4-pin Dupont connectors coming out of the power distribution harness.
* Connect one of the +5V RED regulated BEC outputs to the RED port 0 pin of the Servo Driver. Connect one of the GND black pins coming out of the BEC to the BLACK port 0 GND pin on the Servo Driver.
* On one short side of the Servo Controller you will find a VCC and V+ pin right next to each other. Use a shunt (small black connector that goes over two pins) to connect those together if one is not already installed. Without this shunt the Servo Driver will not work.
* SDA and SCL go to A4 and A5 on the Nano, respectively.



== Building the Gamepad ==
The gamepad for Max The Megapod is identical to the Gamepad for Vorpal The Hexapod.

Please see instructions on [[Vorpal_The_Hexapod_Building_Instructions#Building_the_Gamepadd|the Vorpal Hexapod Gamepad Assembly instructions]].

{{Megapod Quick Links}}

Vorpal The Hexapod Battery Recommendations

2021-05-29T20:50:46Z

Vorpalwiki: /* The Bottom Line */

{{float_box|{{VCH Quick Links}} }}
There are several battery types that will successfully power your VH12 Hexapod. The batteries you choose will affect how long the robot will run, recharge time, etc.

This article explains your options.

= Battery Safety Tips =
Rechargeable batteries are by far the most cost effective and environmentally friendly kind of batteries, but some simple safety rules are recommended:

* Always remove the batteries from both the robot and gamepad when not in use. Don't just turn off the gamepad/robot and leave the batteries in. If somehow the switch gets flipped, then the rechargeable batteries will drain so low that they may be damaged or destroyed.
* Never, ever put non-rechargeable batteries in a battery charger!
* Do not mix different types of battery; do not mix old and new batteries.
* If you are using rechargeable batteries, make sure you are using the right kind of charger for the batteries you are using. Follow all manufacturer recommendations.
* Never leave batteries charging unattended. Never charge batteries "overnight". It is safest to charge batteries in a place that will not be damaged by heat, just in case the rare instance of a damaged battery overheating during charging occurs.
* Investing in a "smart" charger is well worth the extra cost, as they will generally keep your batteries in much better shape than "dumb" chargers. You can buy a dumb charger for under $10, but if it damages your batteries so they can't hold a full charge, did you really save any money? A good smart charger may be a few dollars more, but will keep your batteries running for many hundreds of charges. Don't be penny wise and pound foolish!
* If you are charging batteries, it is normal for them to get warm, but if they feel hot, if smoke is coming off them, if you smell a "burning plastic" type odor, if you see sparks, or if they appear to be swelling or discoloring, disconnect the charger immediately from the wall socket and wait for things to cool down before touching. Exercise caution, remove smoking batteries to the outdoors or a ventilated area.
* If there is any visible damage to a battery or if it appears to be swelling, stop using it immediately and do not attempt to recharge it.
* Some kinds of rechargeable battery cannot be disposed in the trash but must be recycled, follow all instructions and markings on the battery and follow your local community recycling practices.

= Gamepad: Any kind of 9v Transistor Battery =
The gamepad has minimal power requirements and can be powered by either non-rechargeable or rechargeable 9v transistor batteries. (These are the common rectangular batteries often used in smoke detectors, small radios, clocks, etc.) Alkaline, NIMH, NICAD, or LION batteries in the 9v rectangular format will all work fine for the gamepad. The gamepad was designed to fit a standard 9v battery in its battery compartment. You can expect several hours of usage. Do be sure to turn the gamepad off when not in use.

Technical info: The gamepad typically draws about 50 to 100 mA, which is mostly consumed by the Bluetooth module. Thus a 500 mAh alkaline 9v battery will last about 5 to 10 hours, while a 250 mAh NIMH rechargeable battery will last about 2.5 to 5 hours.

= Hexapod: Only Use Rechargeable Batteries =
==The Bottom Line==
EBL brand 3000 mAh "white top" 18650 batteries are by far the best battery for the robot. The best place to get them in the USA as of this writing (May 2021) is [http://Newegg.com Newegg.com] (go there and search for "EBL 18650" to find the current product page).

If you can't get them in your location, other brands of 3000 mAh 18650 batteries will work as long as they're not counterfeit (cheap batteries from China from places like Banggood and Aliexpress often do not work as advertised, stay away). Avoid batteries with extremely aggressive "protection" circuits as they might cut out when motors temporarily surge in current consumption. Unprotected batteries will work a little better on this count, but you need to be more careful when using them.

==Discussion and More Info==
Non-rechargeable batteries, such as alkaline batteries, cannot produce enough current (amperes) to drive the robot reliably.

The major types of rechargeable battery used today are Nickle Metal Hydride (NIMH), Nickle Cadmium (NICAD), and Lithium Ion (LI-ON).

Below we discuss the different options for the robot.

NOTE: Our kit comes with the holder for the two 18650 batteries discussed first below. The other options are for Makers who are building using their own parts or who wish to experiment with different battery options. Switching the battery holder will require soldering, but if you're a Maker you should be ok with that!

== Two 18650 Size LI-ON Batteries ==
This is the type of battery holder we ship standard with our kits, because these are great batteries. You may have never heard of them before, but don't be put off by that, they are by far the best we've found. They balance run-time, cost, and weight very well for this project.

These batteries can be found on [http://Newegg.com Newegg], [http://Ebay.com Ebay], and sometimes camping stores. While a little less common than AA or AAA, these are actually ideal batteries for this robot, giving you long run times at a reasonable weight and a bargain price. You can find them for about the same cost as the more common batteries (two 18650 cost about the same as six AAA but provide several times as much run time! The chargers are also about the same price as AA or AAA chargers.)

NOTE: AMAZON.COM has, as of September 2019, discontinued many cylindrical LI-ON batteries, including the 18650. As of May 2021 the best prices we've found in the USA for our preferred battery--EBL "white top" 18650 batteries--are from Newegg.com.

The "18650" battery is commonly used in flashlights and many of these are made to output high currents which easily are high enough to power the hexapod. Two in series will provide 7.4 volts nominal (which is enough for the hexapod's needs). These batteries can provide very long battery life for the robot. For example using two EBL "white top" 3000 mAh 18650 cells you can expect almost two full hours of continuous motion. (However note: it is best to let the servos "rest" after several minutes of vigorous activity, you shouldn't run the robot full-out for two hours!)

Generally speaking, you should choose an 1865 with at least 2500 mAh capacity to ensure you are not overtaxing the batteries. Often manufacturers will publish the number of "Amps" the battery can safely output. The robot only needs at most about 3 Amps during short surges but it typically draws about 2 to 2.5 Amps.

Note that these batteries require smart chargers made specifically for LI-ON. Do not use a charger that is marked for NICAD or NIMH unless it also explicitly says it is safe for LI-ON.

We have done tests on the following brands and models:
*OUR TOP RECOMMENDATION: EBL brand "white top" 3000 mAh 18650 batteries (they're red and have a white ring around the + terminal. Do not use the yellow top ones!)
**80 minutes to first "cut out" while running "demo mode".
**Usable up to 110 minutes if you're willing to reboot the robot after cut outs every now and then
**Currently cost about $3 per cell from Newegg.com in a 2 or 4 pack.
*EBL brand 3000 mAh "Protected" 18650 batteries (red with yellow ring around the + terminal)
**25 minutes to first "cut out" while running in demo mode.
**Usable up to 60 minutes if you're willing to reboot the robot every now and then.
**Currently cost about $4 per cell from Newegg.com in a 2 pack but the price drops dramatically with larger quantity and gets down to about $2 per cell at quantity 10.

Just be careful, you will sometimes see 18650 (and other types of battery) advertised on sites like Aliexpress or Banggood with outrageously high mAh ratings, like 5,000, 8,000 or even 10,000. Check customer ratings and make sure other people are confirming they are for real. The highest output legitimate 18650 is currently rated around 3600 mAh. If you see one higher than that, it's most likely a fake, low quality battery that won't work. Of course you could also find bad batteries at lower claimed output levels as well.

===Protected vs. Unprotected 18650 Batteries===
Some 18650 batteries are marked "protected" while some are not. The "protected" batteries have a circuit in them that will automatically stop the battery from being shorted out or draining too low. LI-ON batteries can be permanently damaged if they are over-discharged.

You can use either kind of battery with Vorpal as long as you follow common everyday battery safety procedures. For example, never leave the robot turned on when you're done using it. It would be best if you always remove the batteries after you're done for the day, to ensure the robot doesn't get turned on (which could drain too much power, over time, from an unprotected battery).

The advantages of using protected cells are:
* They automatically cut off when they drain below a preset low voltage.
* Therefore, you don't have to worry as much about damaging them by accidentally leaving the robot on at the end of the day.

The disadvantages of using protected cells are:
* They are slightly larger, so it will be slightly harder to get the cells in and out of the battery holder. We suggest putting a string, ribbon, or piece of tape down on the battery holder before inserting the battery, allowing you to get them out easier later.
* Because of the protection circuit, these batteries will have a shorter run-time even though they have the same mAh rating.
**What happens is, very short term surges in the servo motor power usage will fool the protection circuit into triggering, cutting off power to the robot. You will know this has happened because the robot simply turns off, all lights go out, and it sags to the floor.
**Turning the robot off then back on again clears the protection circuit and allows operation again.
**This "cut off" effect will happen after long periods of intense use (such as demo mode or full-out competition).
**As the battery drains, these random cut offs will get more and more frequent.
** Some protected batteries have such aggressive protection circuits they are not really usable with the Vorpal Hexapod.

Example:
*Most unprotected EBL 3000 mAh battery will last about 60-90 minutes under continuous motion like "demo mode", then will start experiencing random "cut off" situations (requiring a restart) more and more frequently until it won't start again at approximately the 110 minute mark.
*In contrast, a protected EBL 3000 mAh battery (they have a yellow band around the + side) will work for about 20 minutes without any rest, but then will start cutting out every 5 to 10 minutes, and will stop working around the 60 minute mark.

The conclusion is: unprotected cells actually work better in this robot. Just be sure you do not leave them in the robot after use, to avoid the possibility the robot will be left on and drain the batteries to the point of damaging them.

= For Makers Only: Alternative Batteries =

== 6xAAA Rechargeable NIMH or NICAD Batteries ==
You can use a 6xAAA battery holder to power the robot using NIMH or NICAD batteries. Typical battery life for continuous use after a full charge would be 15 to 20 minutes of continuous motion using batteries with 1000 mAh capacity. Of course, if the hexapod is moving sometimes and motionless other times, your actual time may be longer.

== 6xAA Rechargeable NIMH or NICAD Batteries ==

You can use a 6xAA battery holder to power the robot using NIMH or NICAD batteries. If the batteries are rated 2000 mAh (typical for this size) you can expect 20 to 25 minutes of continuous motion (but different brands may vary significantly from this rough estimate). However, because AA batteries are about twice as heavy as AAA batteries, they do put a little more stress on the servo motors.

= Other Options for Advanced Users =

If you know about batteries and wish to design your own system for the robot, here are some factors to bear in mind:

* The robot requires 2 amps during typical use but may spike up to 2.5 to 3 amps for short periods.
* The voltage regulator requires 6.5 volts input to keep the servos powered at 5.0 volts nominal, so do not design a battery system with less than about 6.5 volts output at 2 amps. Running the servos with too low voltage may shorter their life.
* The maximum recommended battery voltage is 12.0 volts, beyond that the 5v regulator used for the servos might be damaged and the Arduino Nano onboard regulator (which is fed directly off the battery, not the 5v regulator used for the servos) might overheat.
* The weight of the batteries is also critical. The heavier the batteries, the more stress is put on the servos. The maximum weight of batteries should be no more than 200 to 250 grams. Note that the 2x18650 setup that comes with our kits weigh about 110 grams.

Example 1: the robot will run quite well on two AA LIFEPO4 batteries (which have 3.2v nominal cell voltage and when charged will meet the 6.5 volt minimum, and can output easily 3 amps). These are also very light at about 80 grams.

= Changing the Battery Connector =
This is a build-it-yourself robot kit, so if you wish to use RC battery packs with battery connectors such as Tamiya, PowerPole, JST, or XT60, go right ahead and make the change. A few minutes with a soldering iron is all it takes to make the battery pack swappable using a connector.

{{Vorpal Quick Links}}

Vorpal The Hexapod Battery Recommendations

2021-05-29T20:50:11Z

Vorpalwiki: /* Hexapod: Only Use Rechargeable Batteries */

{{float_box|{{VCH Quick Links}} }}
There are several battery types that will successfully power your VH12 Hexapod. The batteries you choose will affect how long the robot will run, recharge time, etc.

This article explains your options.

= Battery Safety Tips =
Rechargeable batteries are by far the most cost effective and environmentally friendly kind of batteries, but some simple safety rules are recommended:

* Always remove the batteries from both the robot and gamepad when not in use. Don't just turn off the gamepad/robot and leave the batteries in. If somehow the switch gets flipped, then the rechargeable batteries will drain so low that they may be damaged or destroyed.
* Never, ever put non-rechargeable batteries in a battery charger!
* Do not mix different types of battery; do not mix old and new batteries.
* If you are using rechargeable batteries, make sure you are using the right kind of charger for the batteries you are using. Follow all manufacturer recommendations.
* Never leave batteries charging unattended. Never charge batteries "overnight". It is safest to charge batteries in a place that will not be damaged by heat, just in case the rare instance of a damaged battery overheating during charging occurs.
* Investing in a "smart" charger is well worth the extra cost, as they will generally keep your batteries in much better shape than "dumb" chargers. You can buy a dumb charger for under $10, but if it damages your batteries so they can't hold a full charge, did you really save any money? A good smart charger may be a few dollars more, but will keep your batteries running for many hundreds of charges. Don't be penny wise and pound foolish!
* If you are charging batteries, it is normal for them to get warm, but if they feel hot, if smoke is coming off them, if you smell a "burning plastic" type odor, if you see sparks, or if they appear to be swelling or discoloring, disconnect the charger immediately from the wall socket and wait for things to cool down before touching. Exercise caution, remove smoking batteries to the outdoors or a ventilated area.
* If there is any visible damage to a battery or if it appears to be swelling, stop using it immediately and do not attempt to recharge it.
* Some kinds of rechargeable battery cannot be disposed in the trash but must be recycled, follow all instructions and markings on the battery and follow your local community recycling practices.

= Gamepad: Any kind of 9v Transistor Battery =
The gamepad has minimal power requirements and can be powered by either non-rechargeable or rechargeable 9v transistor batteries. (These are the common rectangular batteries often used in smoke detectors, small radios, clocks, etc.) Alkaline, NIMH, NICAD, or LION batteries in the 9v rectangular format will all work fine for the gamepad. The gamepad was designed to fit a standard 9v battery in its battery compartment. You can expect several hours of usage. Do be sure to turn the gamepad off when not in use.

Technical info: The gamepad typically draws about 50 to 100 mA, which is mostly consumed by the Bluetooth module. Thus a 500 mAh alkaline 9v battery will last about 5 to 10 hours, while a 250 mAh NIMH rechargeable battery will last about 2.5 to 5 hours.

= Hexapod: Only Use Rechargeable Batteries =
==The Bottom Line==
EBL brand 3000 mAh "white top" 18650 batteries are by far the best battery for the robot. The best place to get them in the USA as of this writing (May 2021) is [http://Newegg.com Newegg.com]

If you can't get them in your location, other brands of 3000 mAh 18650 batteries will work as long as they're not counterfeit (cheap batteries from China from places like Banggood and Aliexpress often do not work as advertised, stay away). Avoid batteries with extremely aggressive "protection" circuits as they might cut out when motors temporarily surge in current consumption. Unprotected batteries will work a little better on this count, but you need to be more careful when using them.

==Discussion and More Info==
Non-rechargeable batteries, such as alkaline batteries, cannot produce enough current (amperes) to drive the robot reliably.

The major types of rechargeable battery used today are Nickle Metal Hydride (NIMH), Nickle Cadmium (NICAD), and Lithium Ion (LI-ON).

Below we discuss the different options for the robot.

NOTE: Our kit comes with the holder for the two 18650 batteries discussed first below. The other options are for Makers who are building using their own parts or who wish to experiment with different battery options. Switching the battery holder will require soldering, but if you're a Maker you should be ok with that!

== Two 18650 Size LI-ON Batteries ==
This is the type of battery holder we ship standard with our kits, because these are great batteries. You may have never heard of them before, but don't be put off by that, they are by far the best we've found. They balance run-time, cost, and weight very well for this project.

These batteries can be found on [http://Newegg.com Newegg], [http://Ebay.com Ebay], and sometimes camping stores. While a little less common than AA or AAA, these are actually ideal batteries for this robot, giving you long run times at a reasonable weight and a bargain price. You can find them for about the same cost as the more common batteries (two 18650 cost about the same as six AAA but provide several times as much run time! The chargers are also about the same price as AA or AAA chargers.)

NOTE: AMAZON.COM has, as of September 2019, discontinued many cylindrical LI-ON batteries, including the 18650. As of May 2021 the best prices we've found in the USA for our preferred battery--EBL "white top" 18650 batteries--are from Newegg.com.

The "18650" battery is commonly used in flashlights and many of these are made to output high currents which easily are high enough to power the hexapod. Two in series will provide 7.4 volts nominal (which is enough for the hexapod's needs). These batteries can provide very long battery life for the robot. For example using two EBL "white top" 3000 mAh 18650 cells you can expect almost two full hours of continuous motion. (However note: it is best to let the servos "rest" after several minutes of vigorous activity, you shouldn't run the robot full-out for two hours!)

Generally speaking, you should choose an 1865 with at least 2500 mAh capacity to ensure you are not overtaxing the batteries. Often manufacturers will publish the number of "Amps" the battery can safely output. The robot only needs at most about 3 Amps during short surges but it typically draws about 2 to 2.5 Amps.

Note that these batteries require smart chargers made specifically for LI-ON. Do not use a charger that is marked for NICAD or NIMH unless it also explicitly says it is safe for LI-ON.

We have done tests on the following brands and models:
*OUR TOP RECOMMENDATION: EBL brand "white top" 3000 mAh 18650 batteries (they're red and have a white ring around the + terminal. Do not use the yellow top ones!)
**80 minutes to first "cut out" while running "demo mode".
**Usable up to 110 minutes if you're willing to reboot the robot after cut outs every now and then
**Currently cost about $3 per cell from Newegg.com in a 2 or 4 pack.
*EBL brand 3000 mAh "Protected" 18650 batteries (red with yellow ring around the + terminal)
**25 minutes to first "cut out" while running in demo mode.
**Usable up to 60 minutes if you're willing to reboot the robot every now and then.
**Currently cost about $4 per cell from Newegg.com in a 2 pack but the price drops dramatically with larger quantity and gets down to about $2 per cell at quantity 10.

Just be careful, you will sometimes see 18650 (and other types of battery) advertised on sites like Aliexpress or Banggood with outrageously high mAh ratings, like 5,000, 8,000 or even 10,000. Check customer ratings and make sure other people are confirming they are for real. The highest output legitimate 18650 is currently rated around 3600 mAh. If you see one higher than that, it's most likely a fake, low quality battery that won't work. Of course you could also find bad batteries at lower claimed output levels as well.

===Protected vs. Unprotected 18650 Batteries===
Some 18650 batteries are marked "protected" while some are not. The "protected" batteries have a circuit in them that will automatically stop the battery from being shorted out or draining too low. LI-ON batteries can be permanently damaged if they are over-discharged.

You can use either kind of battery with Vorpal as long as you follow common everyday battery safety procedures. For example, never leave the robot turned on when you're done using it. It would be best if you always remove the batteries after you're done for the day, to ensure the robot doesn't get turned on (which could drain too much power, over time, from an unprotected battery).

The advantages of using protected cells are:
* They automatically cut off when they drain below a preset low voltage.
* Therefore, you don't have to worry as much about damaging them by accidentally leaving the robot on at the end of the day.

The disadvantages of using protected cells are:
* They are slightly larger, so it will be slightly harder to get the cells in and out of the battery holder. We suggest putting a string, ribbon, or piece of tape down on the battery holder before inserting the battery, allowing you to get them out easier later.
* Because of the protection circuit, these batteries will have a shorter run-time even though they have the same mAh rating.
**What happens is, very short term surges in the servo motor power usage will fool the protection circuit into triggering, cutting off power to the robot. You will know this has happened because the robot simply turns off, all lights go out, and it sags to the floor.
**Turning the robot off then back on again clears the protection circuit and allows operation again.
**This "cut off" effect will happen after long periods of intense use (such as demo mode or full-out competition).
**As the battery drains, these random cut offs will get more and more frequent.
** Some protected batteries have such aggressive protection circuits they are not really usable with the Vorpal Hexapod.

Example:
*Most unprotected EBL 3000 mAh battery will last about 60-90 minutes under continuous motion like "demo mode", then will start experiencing random "cut off" situations (requiring a restart) more and more frequently until it won't start again at approximately the 110 minute mark.
*In contrast, a protected EBL 3000 mAh battery (they have a yellow band around the + side) will work for about 20 minutes without any rest, but then will start cutting out every 5 to 10 minutes, and will stop working around the 60 minute mark.

The conclusion is: unprotected cells actually work better in this robot. Just be sure you do not leave them in the robot after use, to avoid the possibility the robot will be left on and drain the batteries to the point of damaging them.

= For Makers Only: Alternative Batteries =

== 6xAAA Rechargeable NIMH or NICAD Batteries ==
You can use a 6xAAA battery holder to power the robot using NIMH or NICAD batteries. Typical battery life for continuous use after a full charge would be 15 to 20 minutes of continuous motion using batteries with 1000 mAh capacity. Of course, if the hexapod is moving sometimes and motionless other times, your actual time may be longer.

== 6xAA Rechargeable NIMH or NICAD Batteries ==

You can use a 6xAA battery holder to power the robot using NIMH or NICAD batteries. If the batteries are rated 2000 mAh (typical for this size) you can expect 20 to 25 minutes of continuous motion (but different brands may vary significantly from this rough estimate). However, because AA batteries are about twice as heavy as AAA batteries, they do put a little more stress on the servo motors.

= Other Options for Advanced Users =

If you know about batteries and wish to design your own system for the robot, here are some factors to bear in mind:

* The robot requires 2 amps during typical use but may spike up to 2.5 to 3 amps for short periods.
* The voltage regulator requires 6.5 volts input to keep the servos powered at 5.0 volts nominal, so do not design a battery system with less than about 6.5 volts output at 2 amps. Running the servos with too low voltage may shorter their life.
* The maximum recommended battery voltage is 12.0 volts, beyond that the 5v regulator used for the servos might be damaged and the Arduino Nano onboard regulator (which is fed directly off the battery, not the 5v regulator used for the servos) might overheat.
* The weight of the batteries is also critical. The heavier the batteries, the more stress is put on the servos. The maximum weight of batteries should be no more than 200 to 250 grams. Note that the 2x18650 setup that comes with our kits weigh about 110 grams.

Example 1: the robot will run quite well on two AA LIFEPO4 batteries (which have 3.2v nominal cell voltage and when charged will meet the 6.5 volt minimum, and can output easily 3 amps). These are also very light at about 80 grams.

= Changing the Battery Connector =
This is a build-it-yourself robot kit, so if you wish to use RC battery packs with battery connectors such as Tamiya, PowerPole, JST, or XT60, go right ahead and make the change. A few minutes with a soldering iron is all it takes to make the battery pack swappable using a connector.

{{Vorpal Quick Links}}

Vorpal The Hexapod Battery Recommendations

2021-05-29T20:48:22Z

Vorpalwiki:

{{float_box|{{VCH Quick Links}} }}
There are several battery types that will successfully power your VH12 Hexapod. The batteries you choose will affect how long the robot will run, recharge time, etc.

This article explains your options.

= Battery Safety Tips =
Rechargeable batteries are by far the most cost effective and environmentally friendly kind of batteries, but some simple safety rules are recommended:

* Always remove the batteries from both the robot and gamepad when not in use. Don't just turn off the gamepad/robot and leave the batteries in. If somehow the switch gets flipped, then the rechargeable batteries will drain so low that they may be damaged or destroyed.
* Never, ever put non-rechargeable batteries in a battery charger!
* Do not mix different types of battery; do not mix old and new batteries.
* If you are using rechargeable batteries, make sure you are using the right kind of charger for the batteries you are using. Follow all manufacturer recommendations.
* Never leave batteries charging unattended. Never charge batteries "overnight". It is safest to charge batteries in a place that will not be damaged by heat, just in case the rare instance of a damaged battery overheating during charging occurs.
* Investing in a "smart" charger is well worth the extra cost, as they will generally keep your batteries in much better shape than "dumb" chargers. You can buy a dumb charger for under $10, but if it damages your batteries so they can't hold a full charge, did you really save any money? A good smart charger may be a few dollars more, but will keep your batteries running for many hundreds of charges. Don't be penny wise and pound foolish!
* If you are charging batteries, it is normal for them to get warm, but if they feel hot, if smoke is coming off them, if you smell a "burning plastic" type odor, if you see sparks, or if they appear to be swelling or discoloring, disconnect the charger immediately from the wall socket and wait for things to cool down before touching. Exercise caution, remove smoking batteries to the outdoors or a ventilated area.
* If there is any visible damage to a battery or if it appears to be swelling, stop using it immediately and do not attempt to recharge it.
* Some kinds of rechargeable battery cannot be disposed in the trash but must be recycled, follow all instructions and markings on the battery and follow your local community recycling practices.

= Gamepad: Any kind of 9v Transistor Battery =
The gamepad has minimal power requirements and can be powered by either non-rechargeable or rechargeable 9v transistor batteries. (These are the common rectangular batteries often used in smoke detectors, small radios, clocks, etc.) Alkaline, NIMH, NICAD, or LION batteries in the 9v rectangular format will all work fine for the gamepad. The gamepad was designed to fit a standard 9v battery in its battery compartment. You can expect several hours of usage. Do be sure to turn the gamepad off when not in use.

Technical info: The gamepad typically draws about 50 to 100 mA, which is mostly consumed by the Bluetooth module. Thus a 500 mAh alkaline 9v battery will last about 5 to 10 hours, while a 250 mAh NIMH rechargeable battery will last about 2.5 to 5 hours.

= Hexapod: Only Use Rechargeable Batteries =
==The Bottom Line==
EBL brand 3000 mAh "white top" 18650 batteries are by far the best battery for the robot. The best place to get them in the USA as of this writing (May 2021) is [http://Newegg.com Newegg.com]

If you can't get them in your location, unprotected 3000 mAh 18650 batteries will work as long as they're not counterfeit (cheap batteries from China from places like Banggood and Aliexpress often do not work as advertised, stay away).

==Discussion and More Info==
Non-rechargeable batteries, such as alkaline batteries, cannot produce enough current (amperes) to drive the robot reliably.

The major types of rechargeable battery used today are Nickle Metal Hydride (NIMH), Nickle Cadmium (NICAD), and Lithium Ion (LI-ON).

Below we discuss the different options for the robot.

NOTE: Our kit comes with the holder for the two 18650 batteries discussed first below. The other options are for Makers who are building using their own parts or who wish to experiment with different battery options. Switching the battery holder will require soldering, but if you're a Maker you should be ok with that!

== Two 18650 Size LI-ON Batteries ==
This is the type of battery holder we ship standard with our kits, because these are great batteries. You may have never heard of them before, but don't be put off by that, they are by far the best we've found. They balance run-time, cost, and weight very well for this project.

These batteries can be found on [http://Newegg.com Newegg], [http://Ebay.com Ebay], and sometimes camping stores. While a little less common than AA or AAA, these are actually ideal batteries for this robot, giving you long run times at a reasonable weight and a bargain price. You can find them for about the same cost as the more common batteries (two 18650 cost about the same as six AAA but provide several times as much run time! The chargers are also about the same price as AA or AAA chargers.)

NOTE: AMAZON.COM has, as of September 2019, discontinued many cylindrical LI-ON batteries, including the 18650. As of May 2021 the best prices we've found in the USA for our preferred battery--EBL "white top" 18650 batteries--are from Newegg.com.

The "18650" battery is commonly used in flashlights and many of these are made to output high currents which easily are high enough to power the hexapod. Two in series will provide 7.4 volts nominal (which is enough for the hexapod's needs). These batteries can provide very long battery life for the robot. For example using two EBL "white top" 3000 mAh 18650 cells you can expect almost two full hours of continuous motion. (However note: it is best to let the servos "rest" after several minutes of vigorous activity, you shouldn't run the robot full-out for two hours!)

Generally speaking, you should choose an 1865 with at least 2500 mAh capacity to ensure you are not overtaxing the batteries. Often manufacturers will publish the number of "Amps" the battery can safely output. The robot only needs at most about 3 Amps during short surges but it typically draws about 2 to 2.5 Amps.

Note that these batteries require smart chargers made specifically for LI-ON. Do not use a charger that is marked for NICAD or NIMH unless it also explicitly says it is safe for LI-ON.

We have done tests on the following brands and models:
*OUR TOP RECOMMENDATION: EBL brand "white top" 3000 mAh 18650 batteries (they're red and have a white ring around the + terminal. Do not use the yellow top ones!)
**80 minutes to first "cut out" while running "demo mode".
**Usable up to 110 minutes if you're willing to reboot the robot after cut outs every now and then
**Currently cost about $3 per cell from Newegg.com in a 2 or 4 pack.
*EBL brand 3000 mAh "Protected" 18650 batteries (red with yellow ring around the + terminal)
**25 minutes to first "cut out" while running in demo mode.
**Usable up to 60 minutes if you're willing to reboot the robot every now and then.
**Currently cost about $4 per cell from Newegg.com in a 2 pack but the price drops dramatically with larger quantity and gets down to about $2 per cell at quantity 10.

Just be careful, you will sometimes see 18650 (and other types of battery) advertised on sites like Aliexpress or Banggood with outrageously high mAh ratings, like 5,000, 8,000 or even 10,000. Check customer ratings and make sure other people are confirming they are for real. The highest output legitimate 18650 is currently rated around 3600 mAh. If you see one higher than that, it's most likely a fake, low quality battery that won't work. Of course you could also find bad batteries at lower claimed output levels as well.

===Protected vs. Unprotected 18650 Batteries===
Some 18650 batteries are marked "protected" while some are not. The "protected" batteries have a circuit in them that will automatically stop the battery from being shorted out or draining too low. LI-ON batteries can be permanently damaged if they are over-discharged.

You can use either kind of battery with Vorpal as long as you follow common everyday battery safety procedures. For example, never leave the robot turned on when you're done using it. It would be best if you always remove the batteries after you're done for the day, to ensure the robot doesn't get turned on (which could drain too much power, over time, from an unprotected battery).

The advantages of using protected cells are:
* They automatically cut off when they drain below a preset low voltage.
* Therefore, you don't have to worry as much about damaging them by accidentally leaving the robot on at the end of the day.

The disadvantages of using protected cells are:
* They are slightly larger, so it will be slightly harder to get the cells in and out of the battery holder. We suggest putting a string, ribbon, or piece of tape down on the battery holder before inserting the battery, allowing you to get them out easier later.
* Because of the protection circuit, these batteries will have a shorter run-time even though they have the same mAh rating.
**What happens is, very short term surges in the servo motor power usage will fool the protection circuit into triggering, cutting off power to the robot. You will know this has happened because the robot simply turns off, all lights go out, and it sags to the floor.
**Turning the robot off then back on again clears the protection circuit and allows operation again.
**This "cut off" effect will happen after long periods of intense use (such as demo mode or full-out competition).
**As the battery drains, these random cut offs will get more and more frequent.
** Some protected batteries have such aggressive protection circuits they are not really usable with the Vorpal Hexapod.

Example:
*Most unprotected EBL 3000 mAh battery will last about 60-90 minutes under continuous motion like "demo mode", then will start experiencing random "cut off" situations (requiring a restart) more and more frequently until it won't start again at approximately the 110 minute mark.
*In contrast, a protected EBL 3000 mAh battery (they have a yellow band around the + side) will work for about 20 minutes without any rest, but then will start cutting out every 5 to 10 minutes, and will stop working around the 60 minute mark.

The conclusion is: unprotected cells actually work better in this robot. Just be sure you do not leave them in the robot after use, to avoid the possibility the robot will be left on and drain the batteries to the point of damaging them.

= For Makers Only: Alternative Batteries =

== 6xAAA Rechargeable NIMH or NICAD Batteries ==
You can use a 6xAAA battery holder to power the robot using NIMH or NICAD batteries. Typical battery life for continuous use after a full charge would be 15 to 20 minutes of continuous motion using batteries with 1000 mAh capacity. Of course, if the hexapod is moving sometimes and motionless other times, your actual time may be longer.

== 6xAA Rechargeable NIMH or NICAD Batteries ==

You can use a 6xAA battery holder to power the robot using NIMH or NICAD batteries. If the batteries are rated 2000 mAh (typical for this size) you can expect 20 to 25 minutes of continuous motion (but different brands may vary significantly from this rough estimate). However, because AA batteries are about twice as heavy as AAA batteries, they do put a little more stress on the servo motors.

= Other Options for Advanced Users =

If you know about batteries and wish to design your own system for the robot, here are some factors to bear in mind:

* The robot requires 2 amps during typical use but may spike up to 2.5 to 3 amps for short periods.
* The voltage regulator requires 6.5 volts input to keep the servos powered at 5.0 volts nominal, so do not design a battery system with less than about 6.5 volts output at 2 amps. Running the servos with too low voltage may shorter their life.
* The maximum recommended battery voltage is 12.0 volts, beyond that the 5v regulator used for the servos might be damaged and the Arduino Nano onboard regulator (which is fed directly off the battery, not the 5v regulator used for the servos) might overheat.
* The weight of the batteries is also critical. The heavier the batteries, the more stress is put on the servos. The maximum weight of batteries should be no more than 200 to 250 grams. Note that the 2x18650 setup that comes with our kits weigh about 110 grams.

Example 1: the robot will run quite well on two AA LIFEPO4 batteries (which have 3.2v nominal cell voltage and when charged will meet the 6.5 volt minimum, and can output easily 3 amps). These are also very light at about 80 grams.

= Changing the Battery Connector =
This is a build-it-yourself robot kit, so if you wish to use RC battery packs with battery connectors such as Tamiya, PowerPole, JST, or XT60, go right ahead and make the change. A few minutes with a soldering iron is all it takes to make the battery pack swappable using a connector.

{{Vorpal Quick Links}}

Tower Pro MG90S Vs. Clones

2021-04-08T17:51:03Z

Vorpalwiki: /* Electrical Noise */

The MG90S servo may be the most widely copied hobby servo today. Originated by the manufacturer Tower Pro, it is widely copied, cloned, and counterfeited.

This article will explain the differences between genuine Tower Pro MG90S and commonly available clones and counterfeits.

==Definitions==
For the purposes of this article, we'll use the following definitions:
* Genuine Tower Pro MG90S: An MG90S servo actually manufactured by Tower Pro.
* Vorpal MG90 Servos: These are our own brand of MG90 sized servos. They are manufactured for us by Tower Pro and so they are genuine and are manufactured to the high quality level of other Tower Pro servos. They have some modifications that make them work better for small robotics projects such as Vorpal The Hexapod.
* Clone MG90S: A servo marked MG90S and generally compatible (same size, etc) with applications that use the genuine Tower Pro MG90s, however its label does not claim it was made by Tower Pro. In other words, the manufacturer is not pretending the servo was made by Tower Pro. This is completely legitimate.
* Counterfeit MG90S: A servo that is marked "Tower Pro MG90S" but was not actually manufactured by Tower Pro. In most countries this violates various intellectual property laws and is illegal. In some cases names very close to "Tower Pro" are used, such as "Tower Prop" or "Turbo Pro". A name that is purposely trying to fool the customer into thinking the servo is made by Tower Pro is also considered a counterfeit in this article.

==Tower Pro MG90S Characteristics==

The Tower Pro MG90S has these characteristics:
*It is a digital servo, meaning it has more sophisticated internal circuitry that generally provides more torque, more holding power, and faster updates in response to external forces. Digital servos can also generally take faster PWM signals, meaning it can receive updates from the microprocessor more quickly. However, digital servos can also be somewhat more subject to noise on the power rails, see discussion below.
*Very small deadband, 1 microsecond. This is somewhat technical, but the "deadband" is the amount of error the shaft position can have from the commanded position without the servo trying to adjust power to compensate. A deadband of 1 microsecond means the servo essentially will try to adjust the position if it is off by more than about 0.045 degrees. This is an extremely tight deadband and can cause issues, more discussion is below.
*High quality gears made from aircraft grade aluminum. Tower Pro gears rarely bind up and generally turn smoothly without any clicking or grinding noises.
*When running under load, you will typically hear a high pitched squeal as the digital servo circuitry compensates for loads on the shaft. However you will generally not hear clicks, pops and loud buzzing noises. (Exception, see "hunting" below).

Technical specs (from the Tower Pro official spec sheet):
* Weight: 13.4g
* Dimension: 22.8×12.2×28.5mm
* Stall torque: 1.8kg/cm (4.8V); 2.2kg/cm (6.6V)
* Operating speed: 0.10sec/60degree (4.8V); 0.08sec/60degree (6.0V)
* Operating voltage: 4.8V~ 6.6V
* servo wire length: 25 cm

==Vorpal MG90 Characteristics==
These servos are manufactured for Vorpal Robotics, LLC by the actual Tower Pro corporation, and they use the same high quality gears and other components of the MG90 line of servos from Tower Pro. They are analog and so have a wider deadband and some other differences from standard Tower Pro MG90S (or MG90D or similar) servos. These modifications make them better suited for small robotics projects such as [Vorpal The Hexapod].

The specs are very similar to the Tower Pro MG90S. They're the same size and weight. There is slightly less torque but also slightly less power consumption. This makes battery life longer for the hexapod project than if you used standard MG90S servos, and there is more than enough torque for that project in any case.

These are the preferred servos for Vorpal The Hexapod because these servos will not exhibit "hunting" behavior (see below) and will gain approximately 20 minutes of battery life as compared to genuine Tower Pro MG90S servos.

==Counterfeit MG90S Characteristics==

While it is difficult to be specific due to the large number of counterfeiters, generally speaking this is what we have found after examining thousands of counterfeits:

* Most counterfeits claim to be digital servos but they are actually analog servos. For this reason they do not "hunt" (which is good), but then again they're lying to you about the specs of their product.
* Many of them are defective. For example, there are sometimes batches of counterfeit servos where a large percentage of the servos will exhibit a shaft "drift" when they heat up. In other words, the shaft may drift (usually counterclockwise) anywhere from 2 to 90 degrees as the servo gets warm through use. This drift will revert when the servo cools. If the servo only exhibits a small (2 to 4 degree) drift, then it is usable for many tasks. But clearly, if the drift is as much as 10, 20 or even 90 degrees as we have seen sometimes, the servo is useless for most purposes.
* Gears are metal, but they are of very low quality. About 10 to 15% of all the gearboxes are bad right out of the box and will either fail immediately or within a very short period after use. Even gears that work are of obvious low quality. For example you can see right through the plastic case that there are striations, misshapen teeth, etc. If you carefully turn the shaft by hand, you will frequently feel rough spots, clicks, and pops as bad teeth engage and disengage.
* When running under load, you will frequently hear a lot of chatter, jitter, and noise even when the loads are steady and not changing (such as when the Vorpal Hexapod is standing still).

The technical specs given by vendors who sell counterfeits will appear to match the real Tower Pro specs, however, these specs mean nothing because these are not genuine servos!

Typically the clones will have less than half the torque, be much more sluggish when responding, and will consume more power than the genuine Tower Pro MG90S servos, making battery life poor.

== Clones vs. Counterfeits ==

Many clones are identical to counterfeits (other than the label) had have all of the same problems.

However, there are some manufacturers who put their well known brand name on clones, and they do a good job of ensuring quality.

One of these "good clones" is the Turnigy MG90S, sold by Hobby King. This MG90S clone is very good quality. It really is digital and has good torque and speed. Personally, we prefer the Tower Pro MG90S gearboxes though, because from our testing the real Tower Pro MG90s have a little smoother gearing and don't have any noticeable binding when turning by hand. But if you use the Turnigy MG90S you'll get a good servo at a nice price.

==How to Tell Genuine Tower Pro MG90S from Counterfeits==

If the label is the same, how are you supposed to tell whether you are getting real Tower Pro MG90S or counterfeits?

There are some definite red flags to look for:

* If the price is less than about $4.50 USD, it is a probably counterfeit. If the price is under $2.50 USD, it's almost certain to be a counterfeit unless it is some kind of "clearance sale" where the seller is willing to lose money. Genuine Tower Pro MG90S have a wholesale cost well above $2.50 even in massive quantity purchases (thousands or tens of thousands).
* If the vendor covers up the name on the label in the catalog picture, it's definitely counterfeit. This means Tower Pro went after them and forced them to stop using the Tower Pro name. If you buy such a "label covered in the picture" servo and it says "Tower Pro" on the label when you receive them, it's almost guaranteed not to be genuine Tower Pro.

There are also some physical characteristics to look for that are pretty obvious and can be used even if all you can see is the label. Again, we have to caution that there are many different counterfeits and clones, we're only showing one of the most common ones here.

A few characteristics of the label printing style are a dead give-away as shown here:
[[File:MG90S-SideViewComparisonDiagram.JPG|left|600px|Side view comparison of labels]]

 
From the top view, the genuine Tower Pro MG90S has deep "dimples" around the bracket, and the washer under the plastic where the shaft comes out of the housing is dark in color. By contrast, fake MG90S have little or no dimple marks and have a light copper colored washer under the shaft. Copper is a cheaper metal than the high quality aluminum used in the real Tower Pro servo.
[[File:MG90S-TopViewComparisonDiagram.JPG|left|600px|Top view comparison]]

 

== Using Genuine Tower Pro MG90S with Vorpal The Hexapod ==
While the genuine MG90S are superior in just about every way imaginable, there are a couple of things you need to know when using them with Vorpal The Hexapod.

The information below also applies to "good clones" that are digital like the Turnigy MG90S.

===Servo "Hunting"===
Digital servos have far more torque and are far faster than analog servos. They also have a very narrow "deadband" meaning they generally have much less error when reaching a commanded position. This is all great news! But there is one side effect of that extra power and narrow deadband that is undesirable: hunting.

Let's consider a "hip" servo (the servos attached to the base) swinging a leg to a new position. Because the leg has weight and therefore inertia, what can happen is that the hip servo overshoots the desired position. The greater speed and torque of the digital servo makes this much more likely than with an analog servo. Once the servo overshoots, it needs to reverse power and try to bring the leg back to where it's supposed to be. Because of the very narrow deadband, however, it is almost impossible for the servo to reach the desired position without overshooting!

The result is a rapid quiver around the commanded position. This situation is called "hunting". The servo is searching, or hunting, for the desired angle, but it never finds it because the inertia of the leg keeps causing it to overshoot beyond the deadband range.

Because hip servos have no intrinsic bias, the leg can resonate like that indefinitely. The knee servos, on the other hand, do not exhibit this kind of hunting behavior to any significant extent because gravity biases the movement in one direction and not the other. This causes the hunting resonance to break up before it even starts.

===Solution to Hunting===
If you are using our Vorpal brand MG90 servos, you will not have this issue since that servo is optimized not to hunt when used in our kits.

If you are using real Tower Pro MG90S or MG90D servos (which are digital) the solution is actually quite simple: add a small rubber washer or O-ring to the shaft of the hip servos. All of the kits we provide that have genuine Tower Pro servos come with the right size washer (some of the first kits we sent that included Tower Pro servos had O-rings instead, which also work). You just slip this on before you put the servo horn on the shaft.

The reason this works is that it provides a little bit of friction that damps out the resonance effect. This friction reduces the amount of overshoot enough to kill the resonance.

Note that without the servo horn screw in place, the leg may still exhibit "hunting". The screw is needed to clamp down on the servo horn and press it against the washer. You should only tighten the screw enough to stop the hunting behavior. We don't want to add so much friction that battery run-time is reduced.

Normally you only need the washers on the hip servos. Sometimes the front two legs will show some of the quiver associated with hunting when in F1 or F2 "fight" mode. If you want, you can add washers to the knee servos on the front two legs to damp out the hunting there, but it's not really necessary. Some people think the knees quivering like that in fight mode actually looks cool!

===Electrical Noise===

Both analog and digital servos are subject to oddities that occur due to electrical noise. Because Vorpal The Hexapod has 12 servos all sharing the same power supply, there can be some feedback in the signals going to each servo which causes this noise.

For analog servos, this will usually manifest as little clicks and twitches in the servos. For digital, that can also happen, but sometimes a more serious situation occurs where the servo goes off to a weird angle for a moment.

The Vorpal branded MG90 servos do not have this "weird angle" problem because they are analog servos.

If you are using digital servos in our Hexapod project and you see this issue, the solution here is to make sure you're running the Vorpal Hexapod robot code that is optimized for digital servos. If you place a jumper tying together D5 and D6 on the robot nano, this will trigger the robot code to go into digital mode on boot. This mode of the code runs the signals much more quickly out to the servo, at 120 Hertz rather than the 60 Hertz we used to use for analog servos. The faster signal doesn't stop the noise, but it causes new updates to go to the servo more quickly which allows the noisy signal to be overridden by a good signal in a shorter time. You will still see the issue, but not as often and when it occurs will won't persist as long.

Again, using the Vorpal brand MG90 servo is the preferred solution.

Gidget The Gigapod Assembly Instructions

2021-03-25T18:25:17Z

Vorpalwiki: /* ROBOT BOM */

==LIMITED AVAILABILITY==

Our kits for this project are special order at this time. Allow two weeks for us to ship. Because the parts are relatively heavy, shipping to areas outside the USA is expensive. For makers outside the USA, you may want to try to acquire the parts locally. But beware of subsitutions! Walking robots have very precise requirements and any substitutions of parts may cause the project not to function as expected.

Warning: The 3D printed parts for this project consume a lot of plastic and the print (on our own printers) is over 200 hours for all the parts. (It's not 200 hours straight, it's multiple print jobs each running 6 to 16 hours.) You shouldn't attempt this unless you're prepared for long print times and your printer is well tuned to make failures rare.

NEW: our Megapod and Gigapod kits are now standard with the "Quickbuild" electrical system. This cuts over an hour off the build time.

==Gidget The Gigapod Construction==
[[File:Giga-Mega-Hexa-Stacked.jpg|right|thumb|Gigapod, Megapod, Hexapod relative sizes]]
Gidget The Gigapod is a very large, 3d printed, hexapod robot. This page gives complete instructions for building this project. If you are new to 3d printing, you probably don't want to start with this one, though. Please consider our smaller [[Vorpal The Hexapod]] project instead.
==BILL OF MATERIALS (BOM) FOR GIDGET THE GIGAPOD==
===Notes on Sourcing Parts Yourself===
* These instructions assume you have purchased a kit from us (kits are currently a special order item). If you are sourcing your own parts, please be aware of the following additional information:
**If you are sourcing your own parts, you need to build the power distribution connector assembly. This is identical to the power distribution system for [[Max The Megapod]]. For diagrams see [[Max The Megapod Battery/Switch Construction]] except that it uses an XT60 connector instead of Tamaya for the large battery, and it uses a 30 amp fuse instead of a 15 amp fuse. This will take about 2 hours of soldering and labelling work.
**Also see important information on that page if you are sourcing your own BEC.
**If you are sourcing your own Bluetooth modules, please be aware that you will need to configure them to auto-pair and to have a UART speed of 38400 BAUD. Every module brand's firmware is a bit different so it's not possible for us to give you universal instructions on how to program them. We assume that if you source your own parts you are familiar with how to configure Bluetooth modules using AT-commands. (You can find tutorials online or videos on youtube, but like we said, different modules may not exactly match instructions you will find so be prepared to fiddle around a bit). Please do not ask our customer support for help on this topic. We sell pre-configured modules that auto-pair on boot for a very reasonable price.
**If you are sourcing your own Arduino Nano modules, you will need to flash the robot and gamepad code on them. You can find the latest stable release of code at the [https://tinyurl.com/VORPALFILES Vorpal Hexapod Public Dropbox folder]. The source code tree is posted in our github repository, but the top of that tree may not be stable. Note: there is currently no difference in software between the large and small versions of the hexapod other than a single #define called HEXSIZE. For the gigapod, this should be set to 2.
* Please be very careful about substitutions. You might think you can substitute cheaper parts for the ones specified here. Don't bet on it. Walking robots are extremely difficult to design, and we've chosen each part for a good reason. For example, if you try to substitute cheaper servos you are very likely to find that they don't provide enough torque for the robot to stand up, or they burn out within minutes due to being over-stressed. If you substitute a different battery voltage, you'll either fry the servos or they won't have enough torque. It took 1,000 hours of work to design the smaller hexapod on which this one is based, then another 500 hours of redesign, testing, and tuning to get the big version working well. If you want to try substitutions, okay, but please don't expect it to work without many hours of adjustments and testing.
* Full kits of parts as well as individual parts are available on [http://store.vorpalrobotics.com The Vorpal Robotics Store]. If you are new to Arduino and robotics we strongly recommend you purchase a kit instead of trying to self-source parts (and truthfully, if you're not experienced with this kind of project you really should build the smaller [[Vorpal The Hexapod]] kit first. The Gigapod kit is a special order item and may not ship for up to 2 full weeks after ordering (plus shipping time which is typically a few days for USA orders and 2 to 4 weeks for non-USA orders).
* Our kits cut 4 to 5 hours off the build time, bringing it to typically 2 to 3 or so hours. The kits have all soldering done, programs are already loaded on the Nanos, Bluetooth modules are properly configured, most electrical wiring already connected properly and tested in our workshop. And, you know you have all the right parts to work together. About half the people who self-source parts end up buying parts that are incorrect or are so cheap that they will quickly fail (and they end up spending more money and far more time than if they had simply bought a kit to start with!)

=== ROBOT BILL OF MATERIALS (BOM) ===
[[File:Choking-Hazard-Image.jpg|right|350px]]
[[File:PinchPoint-Warning.JPG|right|350px]]

* ''Electronics:''
** Passive Piezo Buzzer module and 3 wire cable (see image) [[File:Passive-Piezo-Buzzer-Module.jpg|right|thumb|Passive Piezo Buzzer Module]]
** Arduino Nano, 5V, 16 mHz, ATMEGA328 or similar (marked RM in our kit to indicate it is pre-loaded with Gigapod robot software)
** Rotary potentiometer, 10K Ohms, 6mm shaft diameter, with 3 wires pre-soldered. Also, matching dial cap and nut. If you are self-sourcing see our instructions: [[Max The Megapod Battery/Switch Construction]]
** 1 x HC05 BlueTooth Module with F-F jumper wires for making connections (our kit electronics are pre-wired for you)
** 1 x Servo Controller module (Adafruit 16-channel 12-bit I2C PWM/Servo driver or Adafruit clone) with F-F jumper wires for making connections, plus 1 two-pin shunt tying V+ to VCC
** 12 x DS5160 SSG 180 degree, 60 kg-cm torque servo motors with metal servo horns. Be sure you order the 180 degree version, these servos also come in a 270 degree version.
** 1 x Power distribution wiring harness with DPST on/off switch, Fuse, XT60 battery connector, 3A 5V BEC, and servo extension connectors. If you are self-sourcing see our wiring instructions: [[Max The Megapod Battery/Switch Construction|Circuit Diagrams]]. (The battery/switch circuit for the Gigapod is identical to that of the Megapod except it uses an XT60 connector for the large battery and it uses a 30 amp fuse instead of a 15 amp fuse.)
* ''3D Printed Parts:''
** NOTE: All STL files are available from our [[http://tinyurl.com/VORPALFILES Vorpal Public Files Dropbox]] under the STL sub-folder.
** 6 Robot Base Parts and bottom plate to hold the parts together.
** 4 Cap parts which screw together to form the cap of the robot.
** 6 x Legs
** 6 x Boots that will be assembled with wheels.
** 6 x Boot Bushings, cap side, to hold boots onto main legs (the screw goes in this side)
** 6 x Boot Bushings, nut side, to hold boots onto main legs (this side has a hex cutout to hold a hex nut).
** 6 x TPU wheels that are installed in the Boot
** 12 x Wheel bushings that sandwich the wheel, acting as spacers
** 6 x TPU Shoes to provide better traction. These should be printed in TPU or other flexible plastics so they absorb some impact during walking. They should only be used on surfaces with low friction. They should be removed if walking on asphalt or other rough surfaces.
** 12 x Servo Stops. These parts hold the servos in their compartments both in the base and the legs.
** 12 x Servo Bearing Pegs. These insert into the servo compartments and provide a secure place for the bearings to sit.
** 12 x Leg Hinge halves with Leg Hinge Rings. The rings stop layer separation issues under stress.
** 1 x Electronics Caddy to hold Arduino Nano
** 1 x Electronics Caddy to hold the Servo Driver
** 2 x Eye/glasses Decoration
**Gamepad Parts: Base, Button-holder, Top, drawer, exactly the same gamepad as our smaller hexapods use.
* ''Screws and Fasteners''
** 12 x Nylon bolts 1/4-20 x 2" long. These can be partially threaded. Note that it is important for these to be made of nylon for weight savings. These are used to secure servos in place using the servo stopper part.
** 12 x M3x20mm button head screws (with matching flat washers and external tooth washers) to secure servo arms to servo through the screw hole in the hinge.
** 6 x #6-32 x 1.75" long cap screws plus nuts to attach boots onto the end of the leg
** 6 x #6-32 x 1" long cap screws plus nuts to provide axles for the boot wheels.
** 6 x 1/4-20 x 1.25" long cap screw plus nylox locking nuts for holding the BASE parts together
** 6 x 1/4-20 x 3/4" long cap screw plus nylox locking nuts for holding the BOTTOM onto the BASE assembly
** 6 x #6-32 cap screws plus nylox locking nuts for holding the CAP and CAP TOPPER parts together
** 6 x #6-32 cap screws plus nylox locking nuts for holding the LEG HINGES together. Note that the smaller versions of the robot depend on a snap-together system to hold the hinges together, but the larger Gigapod requires a screw through the center hole to ensure the hinges remain together.
** If you are self-sourcing and building your own electrical system, you will also need 10 x #6-32 x 1/2" screws to hold the power distribution plastic covers together. If you buy our kit, these are already installed on the wiring harness.
** 8 x 1 inch diameter hook-and-loop self stick circles to attach of eyes and other decorations
* ''Miscellaneous Mechanical Parts:''
** 12 x 6202ZZ Double Metal Seal Bearings 15x35x11mm for leg hinges
* ''Tools Required (Not included in kit)''
** Hex drivers for the various sized bolts and screws.
** Needle nose pliers are useful for holding the nuts while assembling BASE and CAP parts.
** 3 x Pinch Point Stickers. Place these around the robot Base to warn onlookers not to touch the robot. Some kinds of plastic may not stick well to the adhesive, you may need to secure with hot glue or superglue or similar.
* ''Batteries and Chargers''
** The Gigapod uses a 4200 mAH (a little more is okay but don't go too high due to weight considerations) 7-cell NIMH battery (8.4 Volts) with male XT60 connector and compatible charger, such as: [https://www.batteryspace.com/nimhbatterypack84v4200mahhumpbatterypacksforrctraxxasandlosietc.aspx BatterySpace 42000 mAH 8.4 V NIMH] (We use that one for demos with the 14 gauge wire option, and we solder on an XT60 male connector in-house. You get about 30 minutes of run time with this battery.)
**The Gigapod also requires one 9v battery, we recommend NIMH or LI-ON rechargeable with compatible charger.
** The gamepad takes any kind of standard 9v rectangular batter, either rechargeable or disposable work fine. These are commonly available from many sources. We recommend rechargeable NIMH or LI-ON 9v batteries with appropriate compatible charger.
** Note that we do not provide batteries or chargers with our kits due to licenses required to ship batteries.
NOTE ON BATTERY SAFETY: Never leave batteries in the Gigapod or gamepad after use. If either one gets turned on accidentally, overdraining the battery may damage or destroy it. As soon as the Gigapod has trouble moving or sags under its own weight, immediately stop and replace with fresh batteries. When done using it, disconnect all batteries. Never charge LI-ON batteries unattended even with a smart charger (all electronic equipment will eventually fail to work properly, and leaving LI-ON batteries in a charger unattended is asking for trouble in the long run).

=== GAMEPAD BOM AND ASSEMBLY ===
The gamepad for Gidget the Gigapod is identical to the gamepad for Vorpal The Hexapod. See instructions for the gamepad here: [[Vorpal_The_Hexapod_Building_Instructions#Building_the_Gamepadd|Vorpal The Hexapod Gamepad Assembly instructions]]

==Printing the Plastic Parts==

This section assumes you have basic familiarity with 3D printing and 3D printing terminology. If not, you might want to reference online materials such as youtube videos or information from your 3D printer manufacturer before attempting this project.

Please note: it takes over 200 hours to print this project. This is not a project for the faint of heart, or for people who are not experienced in 3d printing and have not tuned and maintained their printers. If you are a beginner at 3d printing, we strongly recommend that you start with our smaller [[Vorpal the Hexapod]] project. It's a 16 hour print, requires a lot less bridging, and less than a tenth as much practice.

===OBTAINING THE STL FILES===
We have posted the STL files to [http://www.thingiverse.com Thingiverse]. Search for "Gidget the Gigapod" and they should pop right up.

Please help us by rating the Gidget the Gigapod project (or clicking on the LIKE button, COLLECT button, etc.)!

Please post your builds to places like Thingiverse, pictures to FaceBook, Instagram, etc., and videos of your robot to YouTube! This will help us grow and continue having the resources creating cool new projects for our community.

===MINIMUM PRINTER REQUIREMENTS===
*The bed size should be at least 275mm cube (about 11 inches cube). The largest parts are the six Base and the 3 Cap parts in the x and y directions, and in the Z direction the Leg is largest, so these are the limiting factor on bed size.
* For almost all parts, we recommend PLA PRO plastic (or similiar enhanced PLA plastics that may go under other names like PLA+). These are large parts and so PLA is preferred due it being resistant to warping.
* The boots part is best made of TPU plastic, or similar flexible plastics, to reduce the impact of walking on floors.
===AMOUNT OF PLASTIC FILAMENT===
* About 6 to 7 kg of PLA plastic are needed to print the entire robot and gamepad, assuming no print failures.
* About 200 grams of TPU (or similar flexible plastic) are needed to print the wheels. It is possible to print the wheels out of harder plastics but in that case they might scratch wooden floors, so we suggest TPU or some other flexible, soft plastic.
* The amount of plastic used does depend on plastic type and exact print settings though, so your mileage may vary.

===RECOMMENDED PLASTICS===
*ABS, PETG, and PLA all work well. However, because there are some very large parts, ABS may cause you some warping issues if you don't have a heated bed, enclosure, and a printer tuned well for large parts. PLA is generally easier and has fewer issues with corners peeling off the print bed.
*We use eSun PLA PRO for this project and for us it works very well. PLA PRO is a little more flexible and stronger than typical PLA. We have no problems with warping even on the largest parts.
*For the boots, we used Sainsmart TPU and it works very well. Other flexible plastics would probably also be fine.
*This project requires less flexibility than the smaller Vorpal The Hexapod project, so ABS is not at all required for this project.
===PRINTING TIPS===
This project has been finely tuned to make it easy to 3D print. No additional supports are required for any of the parts (there is a support built into the models for the CAP parts and there are tiny supports built into the hinge parts). In some cases you may want to use brims or rafts to help parts adhere to the print surface. These are large, long prints so using a brim for a little added safety is probably prudent.

There is some significant bridging with some spans up to 45mm (1.8"). It is important to tune your printer and make sure it can handle the bridging before attempting the large parts. A little sagging is ok and a drip or two can be easily removed, but you need decent ability to bridge. There are bridge testing and calibration models posted on sites like Thingiverse that may help you tune your printer before trying the big parts. There are numerous "3d printing tips" type postings on the internet that make suggestions for how to tune for features like bridging.

====PRINT SETTINGS====
We print using the following settings on a Lulzbot TAZ 6 with 0.5mm nozzle:
* 0.4 layer thickness (or whatever layer thickness is the largest that will work on your printer)
* 2mm walls (i.e. four perimeters for a 0.5mm nozzle)
* 1.6 mm top and bottom (i.e. four layers at 0.4mm layer height)
* 25% infill
* You can print with thinner layers if your printer does not support 0.4mm layers or if you want a more refined look, it will just take longer. If you have a large nozzle (0.8mm or more) you should be able to go with bigger layers and save a lot of print time. Please report your findings to us at support@vorpalrobotics.com so we can advise future Makers of this project.

====POST PRINT====
Other than removing brims/rafts, cap and hinge built in supports, and the occasional drip, there is not any special post-processing required after printing. Some of the big bridges might seem a little saggy but generally speaking there's enough tolerance that this won't cause an issue. The biggest bridges are mostly hidden inside the robot so they won't affect cosmetics.

====PRO TIPS====
*Do routine maintenance on your printer before printing the big parts: lubricate rods and lead screws, check bed leveling, replace nozzle if worn, do a calibration print, clean your print surface, etc. A few minutes of preparation will help you nail these prints and make a project you can be very proud of!
*Print the large parts (Base, Cap) at the ''start'' of new spools. The last thing you want is to run out of filament 95% of the way through a big part.
*Print the smallest parts (servo stops, hinge rings, Leg pegs, gamepad drawer) near the end of a spool.
*If you have a large format printer, it is tempting to kick off several large parts at once and let it run overnight. We would recommend against that--the chances of killing an entire spool of filament due to an overnight power hit or other failure is just not worth it. Take your time, do the big parts one by one. One or two during the day, one overnight. It will all get done soon enough. An extra few days won't matter in the long run.

== Building the Robot ==

You will need the following tools:
*Included in the kit:
** 2mm hex key. A 5/64 inch hex key will also work. This is in the Gigapod Parts bag.
** 7/64 hex key at least 6" long (150mm). It needs to be long enough to reach screws through access holes in the Base and Cap. This is in the Gigapod Parts Bag.
*Not included in the kit:
** Optional: A marker that can write on dark plastic and still be seen, such as Sharpie Metallic or Sharpie Oil markers (white and yellow work great on dark colored plastic, black or blue work well on light colored plastic). This can be used to make raised lettering on the robot and gamepad more visible.
** Optional: Needle nose pliers can be helpful for holding nuts in place while tightening screws.
** Optional: Slip-joint pliers can be helpful for forcing the skate bearings into their press-fit locations on the Leg Hinges

===IMPORTANT WARNING: POWERFUL SERVOS MAY INJURE YOU===
The motors on Gidget the Gigapod are very powerful compared to the smaller Vorpal the Hexapod (or even Max the Megapod) projects. It is possible for the leg motions to pinch fingers or even possibly break fingers or cause other injuries, possibly severe. When powering on the Gigapod you must keep fingers clear of places where the legs/hips can come together. You should mount the included "Pinch Point" stickers around the Base of the robot to warn others. During public demonstrations, keep adults and especially children away from the robot when it's operating. Little kids will definitely try to touch the robot and could be injured, keep them at a safe distance. In case of electrical issues the legs may move unexpectedly. Turning the power off will release the motors. Never carry the Gigapod when it's powered on. For safety, I disconnect the battery when transporting, just to prevent the possibility that the power switch will get hit accidentally.

If the robot is moving in an out of control manner, use a pencil, book, or rod to hit the power switch from a safe distance. The switch is large and easy to turn off.

You must at all times take standard precautions that are typical with large robotic projects.

If you are building your own electrical system please do not skimp by skipping adding the fuse to the circuit. This project may draw significant amperage and fuse protection is required.

===Step by Step Instructions===
PLEASE NOTE: These instructions are currently in draft state, and I've used diagrams from Max the Megapod here temporarily. The construction is very similar, although you will note some discrepancies such as the BASE for the Megapod comes in 3 parts while in the Gigapod it comes in 6 parts. Still, the construction is analogous. I'll be replacing diagrams for the parts that are not the same first.

====STEP 1: Build the BASE====
* STEP 1A: Take the six outer parts of the base (STL files: Base-1, Base-2, ... Base-6) and arrange them to form the "bowl" of the base. Make sure the servo numbers are in the right order as you move clockwise around the six parts! It's possible to assemble them in the wrong order if you don't check.
* STEP 1B: There are matching screw holes positioned on little rectangular outcroppings on the inside of the top ring, these require screws to bind the three parts together. Use six 1/4-20 by 1.25 inch socket head screws, toothed lock washers, and nuts to secure them. There is an access hole in the rim of the robot to allow the hex key to turn the screw. You may need to hold the nut in place using needle-nose pliers. Repeat for all six sections.
<gallery mode=packed heights=250>
File:Base-Exploded-View.JPG|Line up the six main pieces of the base, ensuring the servo numbers are in order.
File:Access-Hole-In-Base.jpg|Small access holes are strategically placed around the base so the hex key can turn the screws to secure the three base pieces.
File:Securing-Base-Sections.jpg|Use the access hole in the Base parts to secure screws that bind the three base parts together.
File:Megapod-Foam-Squares.jpg|Peel the backing off the foam squares that came with the kit and attach them to the bottom of the base. Stack them on top of each other.
</gallery>
* STEP 1C: Take the Base Bottom part and place it inside the base. There is a nub in one place that will only allow it to be inserted in one orientation. Use six 1/4-20 by 3/4 inch screws with nuts and lock washers in the outer ring of holes in the bottom to secure it to the base. The head of the screw should be on the outside of the robot and nuts should secure the screws on the inside.
* STEP 1D: Take the foam squares that came in your kit and stick them on the bottom of the robot, reasonably centered. These foam pads will reduce the shock and stress on the robot when it goes down to the floor on certain dance moves. Without these pads, the robot leg servos and body structure may undergo too much stress.

====STEP 2: Install the electrical system in the base====
* STEP 2A: Take the potentiometer and remove its dial cap, then unscrew the nut and set these items aside for now (don't lose them). Push the potentiometer shaft from the inside of the chassis into the hole that is surrounded by the markings "STOP", "TST", etc. The wires coming out of the potentiometer should be pointing down. The little metal nub sticking out of the potentiometer should match with a tiny rectangular hole that is near the marking "TST". Put the retaining nut on the potentiometer, hand tighten first and then give it just another half turn or so with pliers if desired. Turn the knob all the way counter-clockwise, then insert the knob so it points to the letter "O" in the word "STOP".
* STEP 2B: Take the large DPST on/off switch (which is attached to the battery holder and power distribution assembly) and thread the switch wires from the inside through the gap at the bottom of the switch hole (see picture). Carefully push the wires one by one through the slot below the switch hole. Once all the wires are through, push the switch into the switch hole. It should be oriented with the "1" to the right. Press carefully into the hole, it should snap firmly in place.
** If the fit is too tight to get the switch in place, lightly sanding or filing the hole to make it a tiny bit larger should work.
<gallery mode=packed heights=200>
File:Switch-Insert-1.jpg|Thread the switch and its wires through the Base, there is an opening under the switch hole.
File:Switch-Insert-2.jpg|Bring the wires up through the small gap below the switch hole. Be careful with the large wires, they require some pressure or some flexing of the plastic to get through.
File:Switch-Insert-3.jpg|All the wires are now coming through the switch hole.
File:Switch-Insert-4.jpg|Press the switch into the hole, it should snap into place. The "1" should be to the right.
</gallery>

====STEP 3: Insert servos in the chassis====
* Next, insert the servo into the chassis as shown in the diagrams. As you insert the servo into the chassis, slowly press it straight into place until it fully seats. Use a servo stopper and one 1/4-20 by 2 inch nylon hex bolts to secure the servos in place. The nylon bolts should retain in the holes even though there are no threads and no nut used. If you find them working themselves loose, you could wrap a bit of electrical tape around the end of the screw to make the fit tighter.
<gallery mode=packed heights=250>
File:Servo-in-Base-2.jpg|Insert each servo with the wire coming out away from the robot as shown here. Press in completely.
File:Servo-in-Base-3.jpg|Insert a servo stopper (shown in red) and secure with nylong bolt. Thread the wire into the body of the robot through the hole as shown.
</gallery>

====STEP 4: Build the Legs====
=====STEP 4A: Assemble Boot and Wheel=====
Because of the large size of the Gigapod, the leg is assembled using several parts (whereas it is a single part with the smaller hexapod designs). The extra part that is attached at the tip of the main leg piece is called the boot. Each boot is tipped by a TPU wheel. This reduces friction when the robot needs to stand, but provides traction when legs move laterally to walk. The TPU wheel is secured by a #6-32 x 1 inch screw, lock washer, and nut as shown in the diagram below. The entire boot/wheel assembly is attached to the main leg using two bushings, one of which has a hex-shaped indentation to retain a #6-32 nut.
<gallery mode=packed heights=350>
File:Gigapod-Leg-Assembly-Wheel-Boot.PNG|Parts for Boot and Wheel. The boot goes over the main leg and is secured with two leg bushings and a #6-32 1.75" screw, nut, and lock washer. The wheel is attached between two wheel bushings and is secured with a #6-32 x 1" screw, lock washer, and nut.
File:Gigapod-Leg-Assembly-Bearing-Peg.PNG|Insert Bearing Peg (red). The servo will lock it in place, there are no screws required.
</gallery>

=====STEP 4B: Insert Servos in Legs=====
The technique is very similar to inserting the servo into the chassis.
*Insert the servo straight into the leg socket so that the wire is coming out of the servo facing away from the plastic leg and the face of the servo with the shaft and servo horn goes into the open faced side of the leg, as shown in the diagram.
*Secure the servo in place with a servo stopper and one 2 inch nylong bolt as you did with the hip servos in the base.
*The servos in the legs are called the "knee" servos. Each leg has a higher number on it, this is the knee number, they run from 6 to 11. Again, write this number on the black connector at the end of the servo wire. PRO TIP: For 6 and 9, underline the number so you don't read them upside down!
*Cut a 12 inch length of braided wire covering. Seal the threads at the end using a lighter for a couple seconds to melt them. Be careful not to set on fire. Thread the knee servo wires through the braided wire covering. This will help protect the servo wires, and also makes the robot look better. You may need to use electrical tape or a zip tie to secure the end of the braided covering to the end of the servo wire where it comes out of the servo.
<gallery mode=packed heights=200>
File:Servo-Insert-Leg-v2.png|Insert Servos in Legs
File:Servo-Leg-Inserted-v2.png|Push until fully seated
File:Servo-Stopper-In-Leg.jpg|Use the servo stopper and two screws to lock the servo in place
</gallery>

*Thread each leg servo wire (with braided covering) into the bottom wire guide slot on the chassis. Each leg servo should be matched with a hip servo plus 6. The legs are marked with the hip number near the top and the knee number below that. For example, the leg marked 6 should be threaded through the wire guide on hip servo 0, leg 7 goes with hip 1, leg 8 goes with hip 2, etc. Add 6 to the hip number to get the leg number.

====STEP 5: Plug in the Servos====
Thread the servo wires into the chassis using the routing holes, as you did with the hip servos. The power distribution harness has marked servo extension sockets for each servo. Each hip servo is marked on the BASE showing its number. the knee servo for each hip is numbered six higher than its corresponding hip. For example, hip servo number 3 will be attached to knee servo number 9, because 3+6=9.

When plugging the servos in, make sure you match the light yellow servo wire to the white servo extension wire, and the dark brown servo wire should match with the black servo extension wire.

====STEP 6: Make Robot Electrical Connections====

If you are self-sourcing, use the diagram below in the electrical section to make the rest of the robot's electrical connections. You'll be using the Robot Arduino Nano (marked "R"), the Servo Driver, Bluetooth Module marked "S", the buzzer, and a bunch of jumper wires. Make sure you use the longer jumper wires for the SDA and SCL connections between the Nano and the Servo Driver.
If you bought a kit from us, all connections are already made, other than plugging the servos into the marked servo extension connectors.

====STEP 7: Assemble the leg hinges====
[[File:Servo-Bracket-Alignment-v1.png|thumb|350px|right|Align the leg hinges as shown here. The bumps (see arrows) should both be near each other when properly aligned. Hold one in each hand with the ends of the U shape between thumb and forefinger.]]
Each leg hinge is composed of two identical U-shaped parts. Take one in each hand and align the two so that the bump (shown in the diagram at the right) are both near each other. Turn one 90 degrees with respect to the other.
*Gently squeeze each piece between thumb and forefinger, which causes the little jaws in the center to open up slightly. Work the two halves together. Keep squeezing harder until the ends slide into place.
*If you used PLA and are finding it hard to bend, briefly soaking the pieces in very hot tap water has been reported to make it easier. Take care not to scald yourself, the water does not have to be boiling, just hot from the tap. You only need to dip the ends that will lock over each other, not the parts you will squeeze. Use caution.
*At this stage, you may notice that the parts are loosely clamped on each other (this depends on plastic used and whether your printer over- or under-extrudes). Don't worry! When you place the leg hinges over a servo, the servo will spread it apart and they will lock together more tightly.
* Use a #6-32 1" screw and matching nut through the center hole of the two joined leg hinges to secure the hinges further. (This is necessary because the gigapod's hinges are under much more stress than in the megapod or hexapod.)
*Insert a 6202ZZ bearing into the socket on one side of the leg hinges. Pliers may be necessary to press them into place. Make sure you clean up any drips inside the recessed area for the skate bearing before attempting to insert the bearings. If you have a lot of trouble getting them in, you could heat up that part of the hinge in hot tap water to soften the plastic, or use a butane lighter (carefully! don't stop moving it) to soften the plastic before inserting the bearing.

====STEP 8: Attach Leg Hinges====
The leg hinges connect the hips to the knees. They only go on one way. If you made sure to align the bumps when assembling the leg hinges, this will result in correct orientation of all legs.
*First place the end that matches the servo horn on about halfway. Make sure the servo horn slides under the little pocket at the end of recessed area that accepts the horn.
*Very slightly bend the U shaped piece while pulling the skate bearing side over the hemispherical bump on the other side of the servo holding area. It's a little easier to do the knees (servos mounted to legs) first, followed by the hips (servos on base).
*NOTE: It will be a tight fit, but it should not be excessively difficult to push the hinge over the bearing.
*When completed, double check to make sure the servo horn went into the covered pocket at the end of its recessed area. This pocket keeps the horn from slipping out of the hinge during stressful operations.

====STEP 9: Enclose the electronics modules in their caddies====

Now things look pretty messy with all those wires hanging loose, let's clean it up by stowing the Arduino Nano, Bluetooth module and Servo Driver in their caddies. The caddies will keep them safe by making sure they can't short out against each other or touch screws, etc.
* '''STEP 9A: Insert Caddy Bars''' Insert the electronics caddy bars as shown in the diagrams below. Notice carefully how they are inserted. Don't insert them upside down, the little hump should be facing inward toward the caddy. You may need to slightly squeeze the forked section at the end to work it into the hole. Once inside, it may be difficult to remove because it will snap into place, so be sure you're putting it in the right way.
<gallery mode=packed heights=300>
File:Insert-Caddy-Bar-1.jpg|Insertion of the caddy bar into the Nano caddy. Notice the orientation, don't put the bar in upside down. The same technique is used for the Servo Driver Caddy.
</gallery>
* '''STEP 9B: Insert the Arduino Nano into its caddy''' Carefully insert the Nano as shown, making sure you don't pull out any of the wires. You may need to wiggle the caddy bar from side to side a bit so that components can slide past it during insertion. Notice that the end of the Nano that has the USB port must go in last.

<gallery mode=packed heights=250>
File:Insert-Nano-In-Caddy-1.jpg|Insert the Nano in the orientation shown.
File:Insert-Nano-In-Caddy-2.jpg|You may need to wiggle it a bit or press on the bar to work it into place.
File:Insert-Nano-In-Caddy-3.jpg|Note how the USB port is accessible through the top after full insertion.
</gallery>

* '''STEP 9C: Insert the Servo Driver into its caddy''' Carefully insert the Servo Driver as shown, making sure you don't pull out any of the wires. You may need to wiggle the caddy bar from side to side a bit so that components can slide past it during insertion. Notice that the end of the Servo controller with wires sticking out of it must go in last.

<gallery mode=packed heights=200>
File:Insert-ServoDriver-In-Caddy-1.jpg|Insert the Servo Driver in the orientation shown.
File:Insert-ServoDriver-In-Caddy-2.jpg|You may need to wiggle it a bit or press on the bar to work it into place.
File:Insert-ServoDriver-In-Caddy-3.jpg|Note that the end with the wires goes in last.
</gallery>

* '''STEP 9D: Insert the HC05 Bluetooth Module''' The diagrams here do not show the wires to make them easier to visualize. The HC05 Bluetooth module with a name beginning with "S" should be used for the robot. For example, the label will read something like "VORP S2944" (the number will differ). The one marked "M" will be used for the gamepad. Slide the HC05 into the side drawer as shown. When inserting, be careful not to pull out the wires, which will be a little tight. Work the wires into the little space provided so they stay clear of the robot's cap when it gets screwed on later.

<gallery mode=packed heights=250>
File:Insert-HC05-in-Caddy-1.jpg|Insert the HC05 into the side drawer of the Nano Caddy as shown.
File:Insert-HC05-in-Caddy-2.jpg|When fully inserted, the indicator light will still be visible through the small oval.
File:Insert-HC05-in-Caddy-3.jpg|The wires should be tucked into the little cavity near the pins of the HC05.
</gallery>

====STEP 10: Power up!====
Make sure the on/off switch is off, and the knob is turned to STOP. Attach the proper batteries (a 9v recharageable NIMH or LI-ON, and an 8.4 volt 4000 or more mAh NIMH with XT60 connector) and power on the robot using the on/off switch. You should hear a beep, a pause, then a second beep. The servos should all twitch into position. If the robot does not move at all, immediately turn the switch off and check your connections again. If some of the servos don't move then gently push them with power off to see if you can free them up. If they still won't move, try pushing them with power applied, but turn off the power within 30 seconds if they're locked up. If you can't get the servo to move it will need to be replaced.

[[File:Servo-Horn-Orientation.png|thumb|right|The servo horn should come straight out from the body at a 90 degree angle as shown here. Do not turn the servo shaft by hand until after it has moved under power!]]

====STEP 11: Insert Servo Horns====
The servo horns are all at random-ish angles right now. In this step we'll make them point in the right direction. The knee servos are not at 90 degrees when the knob is all the way counter clockwise, rather they are at a 30 degree standing angle.

We need to get them to 90 degrees so its easy to align the servo horn, and this is done by going into "Adjust Mode". Turn the knob very slightly clockwise until you hear a beep, then stop. After about one second you will see all the knee servos twitch. This is "adjust servo horn mode". All servos (knees and hips) are now at their halfway point, 90 degrees.

Now you need to take each single arm servo horn and carefully insert it on the shaft so that it is sticking straight out as shown in the figure. You will not always be able to make the horn come totally straight out. This is because there are only 22 little groves (splines) in each shaft, meaning you can in general only come within about 8 degrees of being at a perfect 90 degree angle. This amount of error is acceptable for now, just get it as close as you can. Later we'll use Trim Mode to make fine adjustments.

====STEP 12: Test Knee Positions====
Turn the knob fully counter clockwise (to STOP) and the robot will go into "stand still" mode. Place it on a level surface such as a table top. Do all of the legs touch the ground? If one or more legs don't touch the ground, you need to adjust the servo horn on the knee a little bit so it does touch. Gently pull off the servo bracket. Pull the servo horn off, and put it back on just a little bit moved so the leg would move closer to the ground. Put the servo bracket back on, and see how it looks. Do this until all legs are at least slightly touching the ground. Again, you can't necessarily be perfect due to the 8 degree increments the servo horns can be moved. But you should be able to be close enough that all legs at least slightly touch the ground.

====STEP 13: Insert Servo Screws====
Now that the legs are adjusted, you can insert the M3x12 screws (with M3 lock washers) into the servo horns to lock them in place. Note that you will NOT be using the screws that were in the little bag the servos came in, you'll be using the separate pack of screws, which are longer than the ones in the servo bag. Do not overtighten these screws, as you could possibly crack the servo brackets. Just turn the screws until you start to feel resistance, then turn a quarter turn more and stop.

====STEP 14: Test the Servos====
*'''STEP 14A: Using TST Mode'''
**To test whether every servo is working, put the robot on something that will lift its legs off the table top, but won't interfere with the legs (a small box or stack of books will work).
**Start with the knob on STOP, then slowly turn it clockwise. You'll hear one beep (Adjust mode), then a second beep (Test mode). Stop turning and the robot will go into "individual servo test mode". In this mode, every hip servo will move, one by one. When all the hips have moved, every leg will move, one by one. You should see every servo move, in order. If some don't move, check your connections. A common error is to plug a servo connector into the servo controller backwards (i.e. the brown wire is matched with the yellow pin instead of the black pin). If the servos do not move in a sensible order, that probably means you plugged a couple of servos into the wrong sockets in the electrical harness.

*'''STEP 14B: Test Using Demo Mode'''
**Ok, everything looks good, so time for a full test. Turn the knob to STOP, then put the robot on the floor, somewhere that has at least a few feet of room in each direction. (Caution: it's tempting to do this on a table top, but unless you have a huge table this is not advisable, Max will run pretty fast at some points during the demo.)
**Turn the knob to DEMO, and about one second later the robot will go through a series of movements to demonstrate some of the things it can do. The full demo only takes about 30 seconds, then repeats. Here, you are looking for the robot to, for example, be able to get back up off the floor after doing some of its dance moves.
**If the robot struggles to get off the floor, you may have a battery that is not fully charged, or there may be drips or other obstructions stopping some legs from moving fully. See the [[Vorpal Combat_Hexapod Troubleshooting Guide|Trouble Shooting Guide]] for more information about different kinds of issues that can occur. That guide was written for the small robot, but most of the things that can go wrong with the Gigapod are similar to the things that can go wrong with Vorpal The Hexapod.

====STEP 15: Store electronics and wires in the Base====
Carefully stow the caddies into the base, using any available convenient space. NOTE: Unlike the small hexapod and megapod, the Gigapod saves weight by not having any service access covers. This makes it look messier when the top is off, but the savings in weight was necessary to avoid servo stress.
<gallery mode=packed heights=250>
File:All-Electronics-Inserted-In-Base.jpg|Carefully stow the caddies into the base, being careful not to pull out any wires.
</gallery>

====STEP 16: Assemble the Cap====
*'''STEP 16A: Assemble the Four Cap Parts'''
**First assemble the three large pieces after removing the support coming out of the center. Be aware that there is a correct ordering to them, the two flaps that stick out near the bottom need to be opposite each other so the cap can slot into the Base and lock in place. Use #6-32 x 1 inch screws plus nylox locking nuts to secure the three parts together as shown. There are access holes around the rim that allow the hex key to reach the screws. Use nuts and locking washers to secure the screws.
**Secure the top of the cap onto the bottom three pieces using three 1 inch #6 socket screws and their associated nylox locking nuts.
<gallery mode=packed heights=250>
File:Cap-Exploded.JPG|Arrangement of the four Cap parts. Note that this diagram shows the support in place, this should actually be removed prior to assembly.
File:CAP-Assembly-order.JPG|Make sure the two flaps at the rim are opposite each other when ordering the three main parts.
</gallery>
* '''STEP 16B: Put Hook-and-loop on Cap''' Peel and stick on the "hook" side of a 1" piece of hook-and-loop on each flat circular decoration holder on the cap.
* '''STEP 16C: Decorate''' If desired, use a permanent marker to color the Vorpal "V" on top of the Cap. Oil markers work well. On light colors of plastic a black permanent marker will also work.
* '''STEP 16D: Put Cap on the Hexapod'''
**Screw the cap on the robot by lining up the tabs with the matching slots in the rim of the base. Turn the cap clockwise to lock it in place. IMPORTANT: Do not press down on the robot to insert the cap when the robot is under power standing on its legs! You can damage the leg motors by doing this. It is best to turn the robot off, and either support the bottom of the Base with one hand and press the Cap on with the other, or set the Base down on the table top or floor with legs out to the sides so they don't take pressure.
**If the cap is too loose and swivels while the robot moves, this can be fixed by putting a bit of tape on the cap's flaps to make them a little thicker. The tightness of the cap depends a lot on printer settings, over- or under-extrusion, etc.

====STEP 17: Warning Label====
There are self-stick choking hazard warning labels and also several pinch point warning labels in the hexapod parts bag. Peel the backing off one choking hazard lable and place it on the bottom of the robot, near the center. Retain the second label for the gamepad. The pinch point warnings should be placed around the body of the robot, above the legs, in visible positions. Depending on what kind of plastic you're using, they might or might not stick well. If they don't stick, use glue (such as cyanoacrilate "super glue" or even hot glue) to secure them. The warning labels are not optional! They are necessary for safety. The motors are powerful and can snap your fingers like a twig, or cause severe pinch injuries, sprains, or bruises.

==== Step 18: Trimming the Servos ====
When you assembled the servo horns onto the servos, you probably were not able to get them all to come out exactly at a 90 degree angle. That's not your fault: the servo horns only have 22 possible positions in which they can be installed, so at best you can come within plus or minus 8 degrees of perfection.

Now that you have the gamepad working, you can make fine adjustments to the servo positions using "Trim Mode". In this special gamepad mode, you can adjust all the servos to within a fraction of a degree. These adjustments are saved in the robot's EEPROM, which is memory on the Nano that retains data even when powered off. So, you only need to trim once.

Complete instructions on how to use trim mode are in the wiki page: [[Vorpal The Hexapod Trim Mode Guide]]. That guide was written for the smaller robot, but the instructions are identical for the Gigapod.

NOTE: although this step is optional, it is strongly recommended because your robot will walk straighter and all the servos will share equally in lifting the robot's weight, which will make them last longer.

====Step 19: Assembling Eye Decorations====
Peel and stick a piece of "loop" from the supplied hook and loop fasteners on the back of the two eye pieces. This allows you to stick the eyes on the Cap's matching "hook" areas.

NOTE: There are extra hook and loop circles included in your kit. You can create your own attachments, nameplates, etc. using these.

==Electrical Connections: Robot==
Please note that our Gigapod kit comes prewired using our QuickBuild system. The notes in this section are for makers who self-source.

===NOTES ON JUMPER WIRES===

====Wire Lengths====
There are two different lengths of female-female Dupont jumper wires used to make most connections. The longer ones (20cm) are only used for the Hexapod's accessory port connections. The shorter ones are used for all the connections on the Gamepad and all the connections on the Hexapod between the Arduino Nano, Servo controller and Bluetooth module.

====Wire Color Conventions====

Please follow these conventions when selecting wire colors:
* For +5V, Vin, and similar positive voltage connections, use either RED or ORANGE.
* For GND and other negative electrical connections, use BLACK or BROWN.
* For the connectors that sit at the mouth of the accessory port (used for optional sensors) colors are suggested below in the instructions. By following these suggestions you will make your life easier when connecting sensors!
* For all other connections, you can use any color you want, it's arbitrary.

====If Jumper Wires Are Too Loose====
Sometimes you will find a wire whose connector does not grip the pin well enough. It might fall off very easily or just by gravity alone. If that happens, you have a few options:
* There are extra wires in your kit. If you find a wire that's too loose, just use a different wire.
* Using the hex key, you can put the jumper housing on a flat surface then press on the metal showing through the plastic connector, which will tighten up the jumper wire's grip. Don't go too overboard on pressing though or you might make it too hard to insert.
* Alternatively, you could use electrical tape after inserting all the wires on a module (such as the Nano) to effectively attach together all the little plastic female connector housings. In that way, the connectors that do grip will help hold in the ones that are too loose. Some people also like using hot glue for this purpose. (Personally, I don't like using hot glue, as it makes it harder to change connections if you hooked something up incorrectly.)

===NANO PIN CONNECTIONS===
[[File:Megapod-Nano-Connections-v1.JPG|thumb|600px|right|Diagram of Nano connections for the Hexapod. Jumpers marked AP are routed to the Accessory Port for use with add-ons like sensors. Click for larger image.]]
* ''Digital IO Pins:''
** D0, D1 are reserved because they are used for uploading programs to the robot, so nothing will be connected there.
** D2, D3 No connection.
** D4 Buzzer Signal (white wire)
** D5 through D13 No connection. These pins are reserved for future expansion.

* ''Analog Pins:''
** A0 Potentiometer signal (white wire)
** A1 Potentiometer Power (red wire)
** A2 Potentiometer Ground (black wire)
** A3 No connection.
** A4 Servo Controller SDA
** A5 Servo Controller SCL
** A6, A7 No connection.

* ''Power Pins:''
** +5V pin on Nano connects to any of the +5V RED wires coming from the BEC on the power distribution harness.
** GND pin on Nano connects to any of the GND BLACK wires coming from the BEC on the power distribution harness.

===Servo Driver Power Pins===
* Port 0 RED pin on the Servo Driver connects to any of the +5V RED wires coming from the BEC on the power distribution harness.
* Port 0 BLACK GND pin on the Servo Driver connects to any of the GND BLACK wires coming from the BEC on the power distribution harness.

=== Bluetooth Module Power ===
* +5V on HC05 connects to any RED Dupont connector coming off the BEC.
* GND on HC05 connects to any BLACK Dupont connector coming off the BEC.

=== Buzzer Power ===
* Plug the buzzer into the unused port 15 on the servo driver, making sure the red and black wires on the buzzer power match the red and black rows of pins on the servo driver.

=== Servo Driver ===
[[File:Megapod-ServoDriverConnections.jpg|thumb|600px|right|Diagram of Servo Controller pins you will use in this project. Each servo motor has a 3 wire connector that should be plugged into the corresponding servo number extension connector in the power distribution harness. The white wires coming out of the harness in groups of four should be connected to the yellow line or ports, matching the number ranges to port numbers. Note that the black and red rows of pins are not used, power is provided to the servos through the power distribution harness. Click for larger image.]]
* Connect the 12 servos to power distribution harness connectors marked with port numbers corresponding to the servo marking (0 to 11). Make sure the signal wire (yellow) is oriented correctly and matches the yellow plastic header pin.
* Connect the groups of four white wires which are marked with servo port numbers to the Servo Driver yellow pins, matching the Servo Driver pin number to the port numbers written on the 4-pin Dupont connectors coming out of the power distribution harness.
* Connect one of the +5V RED regulated BEC outputs to the RED port 0 pin of the Servo Driver. Connect one of the GND black pins coming out of the BEC to the BLACK port 0 GND pin on the Servo Driver.
* On one short side of the Servo Controller you will find a VCC and V+ pin right next to each other. Use a shunt (small black connector that goes over two pins) to connect those together if one is not already installed. Without this shunt the Servo Driver will not work.
* SDA and SCL go to A4 and A5 on the Nano, respectively.



== Building the Gamepad ==
The gamepad for Gidget the Gigapod is identical to the Gamepad for Vorpal The Hexapod (and also Max the Megapod).

Please see instructions on [[Vorpal_The_Hexapod_Building_Instructions#Building_the_Gamepadd|the Vorpal Hexapod Gamepad Assembly instructions]].

{{Gigapod Quick Links}}

Gidget The Gigapod Assembly Instructions

2021-03-21T18:55:58Z

Vorpalwiki: /* ROBOT BOM */

==LIMITED AVAILABILITY==

Our kits for this project are special order at this time. Allow two weeks for us to ship. Because the parts are relatively heavy, shipping to areas outside the USA is expensive. For makers outside the USA, you may want to try to acquire the parts locally. But beware of subsitutions! Walking robots have very precise requirements and any substitutions of parts may cause the project not to function as expected.

Warning: The 3D printed parts for this project consume a lot of plastic and the print (on our own printers) is over 200 hours for all the parts. (It's not 200 hours straight, it's multiple print jobs each running 6 to 16 hours.) You shouldn't attempt this unless you're prepared for long print times and your printer is well tuned to make failures rare.

NEW: our Megapod and Gigapod kits are now standard with the "Quickbuild" electrical system. This cuts over an hour off the build time.

==Gidget The Gigapod Construction==
[[File:Giga-Mega-Hexa-Stacked.jpg|right|thumb|Gigapod, Megapod, Hexapod relative sizes]]
Gidget The Gigapod is a very large, 3d printed, hexapod robot. This page gives complete instructions for building this project. If you are new to 3d printing, you probably don't want to start with this one, though. Please consider our smaller [[Vorpal The Hexapod]] project instead.
==BILL OF MATERIALS (BOM) FOR GIDGET THE GIGAPOD==
===Notes on Sourcing Parts Yourself===
* These instructions assume you have purchased a kit from us (kits are currently a special order item). If you are sourcing your own parts, please be aware of the following additional information:
**If you are sourcing your own parts, you need to build the power distribution connector assembly. This is identical to the power distribution system for [[Max The Megapod]]. For diagrams see [[Max The Megapod Battery/Switch Construction]] except that it uses an XT60 connector instead of Tamaya for the large battery, and it uses a 30 amp fuse instead of a 15 amp fuse. This will take about 2 hours of soldering and labelling work.
**Also see important information on that page if you are sourcing your own BEC.
**If you are sourcing your own Bluetooth modules, please be aware that you will need to configure them to auto-pair and to have a UART speed of 38400 BAUD. Every module brand's firmware is a bit different so it's not possible for us to give you universal instructions on how to program them. We assume that if you source your own parts you are familiar with how to configure Bluetooth modules using AT-commands. (You can find tutorials online or videos on youtube, but like we said, different modules may not exactly match instructions you will find so be prepared to fiddle around a bit). Please do not ask our customer support for help on this topic. We sell pre-configured modules that auto-pair on boot for a very reasonable price.
**If you are sourcing your own Arduino Nano modules, you will need to flash the robot and gamepad code on them. You can find the latest stable release of code at the [https://tinyurl.com/VORPALFILES Vorpal Hexapod Public Dropbox folder]. The source code tree is posted in our github repository, but the top of that tree may not be stable. Note: there is currently no difference in software between the large and small versions of the hexapod other than a single #define called HEXSIZE. For the gigapod, this should be set to 2.
* Please be very careful about substitutions. You might think you can substitute cheaper parts for the ones specified here. Don't bet on it. Walking robots are extremely difficult to design, and we've chosen each part for a good reason. For example, if you try to substitute cheaper servos you are very likely to find that they don't provide enough torque for the robot to stand up, or they burn out within minutes due to being over-stressed. If you substitute a different battery voltage, you'll either fry the servos or they won't have enough torque. It took 1,000 hours of work to design the smaller hexapod on which this one is based, then another 500 hours of redesign, testing, and tuning to get the big version working well. If you want to try substitutions, okay, but please don't expect it to work without many hours of adjustments and testing.
* Full kits of parts as well as individual parts are available on [http://store.vorpalrobotics.com The Vorpal Robotics Store]. If you are new to Arduino and robotics we strongly recommend you purchase a kit instead of trying to self-source parts (and truthfully, if you're not experienced with this kind of project you really should build the smaller [[Vorpal The Hexapod]] kit first. The Gigapod kit is a special order item and may not ship for up to 2 full weeks after ordering (plus shipping time which is typically a few days for USA orders and 2 to 4 weeks for non-USA orders).
* Our kits cut 4 to 5 hours off the build time, bringing it to typically 2 to 3 or so hours. The kits have all soldering done, programs are already loaded on the Nanos, Bluetooth modules are properly configured, most electrical wiring already connected properly and tested in our workshop. And, you know you have all the right parts to work together. About half the people who self-source parts end up buying parts that are incorrect or are so cheap that they will quickly fail (and they end up spending more money and far more time than if they had simply bought a kit to start with!)

=== ROBOT BOM ===
[[File:Choking-Hazard-Image.jpg|right|350px]]
[[File:PinchPoint-Warning.JPG|right|350px]]

* ''Electronics:''
** Passive Piezo Buzzer module and 3 wire cable (see image) [[File:Passive-Piezo-Buzzer-Module.jpg|right|thumb|Passive Piezo Buzzer Module]]
** Arduino Nano, 5V, 16 mHz, ATMEGA328 or similar (marked RM in our kit to indicate it is pre-loaded with Gigapod robot software)
** Rotary potentiometer, 10K Ohms, 6mm shaft diameter, with 3 wires pre-soldered. Also, matching dial cap and nut. If you are self-sourcing see our instructions: [[Max The Megapod Battery/Switch Construction]]
** 1 x HC05 BlueTooth Module with F-F jumper wires for making connections (our kit electronics are pre-wired for you)
** 1 x Servo Controller module (Adafruit 16-channel 12-bit I2C PWM/Servo driver or Adafruit clone) with F-F jumper wires for making connections, plus 1 two-pin shunt tying V+ to VCC
** 12 x DS5160 SSG 180 degree, 60 kg-cm torque servo motors with metal servo horns. Be sure you order the 180 degree version, these servos also come in a 270 degree version.
** 1 x Power distribution wiring harness with DPST on/off switch, Fuse, XT60 battery connector, 3A 5V BEC, and servo extension connectors. If you are self-sourcing see our wiring instructions: [[Max The Megapod Battery/Switch Construction|Circuit Diagrams]]. (The battery/switch circuit for the Gigapod is identical to that of the Megapod except it uses an XT60 connector for the large battery and it uses a 30 amp fuse instead of a 15 amp fuse.)
* ''3D Printed Parts:''
** NOTE: All STL files are available from our [[http://tinyurl.com/VORPALFILES Vorpal Public Files Dropbox]] under the STL sub-folder.
** 6 Robot Base Parts and bottom plate to hold the parts together.
** 4 Cap parts which screw together to form the cap of the robot.
** 6 x Legs
** 6 x Boots that will be assembled with wheels.
** 6 x Boot Bushings, cap side, to hold boots onto main legs (the screw goes in this side)
** 6 x Boot Bushings, nut side, to hold boots onto main legs (this side has a hex cutout to hold a hex nut).
** 6 x TPU wheels that are installed in the Boot
** 12 x Wheel bushings that sandwich the wheel, acting as spacers
** 6 x TPU Shoes to provide better traction. These should be printed in TPU or other flexible plastics so they absorb some impact during walking. They should only be used on surfaces with low friction. They should be removed if walking on asphalt or other rough surfaces.
** 12 x Servo Stops. These parts hold the servos in their compartments both in the base and the legs.
** 12 x Servo Bearing Pegs. These insert into the servo compartments and provide a secure place for the bearings to sit.
** 12 x Leg Hinge halves with Leg Hinge Rings. The rings stop layer separation issues under stress.
** 1 x Electronics Caddy to hold Arduino Nano
** 1 x Electronics Caddy to hold the Servo Driver
** 2 x Eye/glasses Decoration
**Gamepad Parts: Base, Button-holder, Top, drawer, exactly the same gamepad as our smaller hexapods use.
* ''Screws and Fasteners''
** 12 x Nylon bolts 1/4-20 x 2" long. These can be partially threaded. Note that it is important for these to be made of nylon for weight savings. These are used to secure servos in place using the servo stopper part.
** 12 x M3x20mm button head screws (with matching flat washers and external tooth washers) to secure servo arms to servo through the screw hole in the hinge.
** 6 x #6-32 x 1.75" long cap screws plus nuts to attach boots onto the end of the leg
** 6 x #6-32 x 1" long cap screws plus nuts to provide axles for the boot wheels.
** 6 x 1/4-20 x 1.25" long cap screw plus nylox locking nuts for holding the BASE parts together
** 6 x 1/4-20 x 3/4" long cap screw plus nylox locking nuts for holding the BOTTOM onto the BASE assembly
** 6 x #6-32 cap screws plus nylox locking nuts for holding the CAP and CAP TOPPER parts together
** 6 x #6-32 cap screws plus nylox locking nuts for holding the LEG HINGES together. Note that the smaller versions of the robot depend on a snap-together system to hold the hinges together, but the larger Gigapod requires a screw through the center hole to ensure the hinges remain together.
** If you are self-sourcing and building your own electrical system, you will also need 10 x #6-32 x 1/2" screws to hold the power distribution plastic covers together. If you buy our kit, these are already installed on the wiring harness.
** 8 x 1 inch diameter hook-and-loop self stick circles to attach of eyes and other decorations
* ''Miscellaneous Mechanical Parts:''
** 12 x 6202ZZ Double Metal Seal Bearings 15x35x11mm for leg hinges
** 12 x 608zz Skate Bearings with nylon coated wheel, dimensions: 27.5mm diameter wheel, 8mm inner diameter on bearing, 8mm wide.
* ''Tools Required (Not included in kit)''
** Hex drivers for the various sized bolts and screws.
** Needle nose pliers are useful for holding the nuts while assembling BASE and CAP parts.
** 3 x Pinch Point Stickers. Place these around the robot Base to warn onlookers not to touch the robot. Some kinds of plastic may not stick well to the adhesive, you may need to secure with hot glue or superglue or similar.
* ''Batteries and Chargers''
** The Gigapod uses a 4200 mAH (a little more is okay but don't go too high due to weight considerations) 7-cell NIMH battery (8.4 Volts) with male XT60 connector and compatible charger, such as: [https://www.batteryspace.com/nimhbatterypack84v4200mahhumpbatterypacksforrctraxxasandlosietc.aspx BatterySpace 42000 mAH 8.4 V NIMH] (We use that one for demos with the 14 gauge wire option, and we solder on an XT60 male connector in-house. You get about 30 minutes of run time with this battery.)
**The Gigapod also requires one 9v battery, we recommend NIMH or LI-ON rechargeable with compatible charger.
** The gamepad takes any kind of standard 9v rectangular batter, either rechargeable or disposable work fine. These are commonly available from many sources. We recommend rechargeable NIMH or LI-ON 9v batteries with appropriate compatible charger.
** Note that we do not provide batteries or chargers with our kits due to licenses required to ship batteries.
NOTE ON BATTERY SAFETY: Never leave batteries in the Gigapod or gamepad after use. If either one gets turned on accidentally, overdraining the battery may damage or destroy it. As soon as the Gigapod has trouble moving or sags under its own weight, immediately stop and replace with fresh batteries. When done using it, disconnect all batteries. Never charge LI-ON batteries unattended even with a smart charger (all electronic equipment will eventually fail to work properly, and leaving LI-ON batteries in a charger unattended is asking for trouble in the long run).

=== GAMEPAD BOM AND ASSEMBLY ===
The gamepad for Gidget the Gigapod is identical to the gamepad for Vorpal The Hexapod. See instructions for the gamepad here: [[Vorpal_The_Hexapod_Building_Instructions#Building_the_Gamepadd|Vorpal The Hexapod Gamepad Assembly instructions]]

==Printing the Plastic Parts==

This section assumes you have basic familiarity with 3D printing and 3D printing terminology. If not, you might want to reference online materials such as youtube videos or information from your 3D printer manufacturer before attempting this project.

Please note: it takes over 200 hours to print this project. This is not a project for the faint of heart, or for people who are not experienced in 3d printing and have not tuned and maintained their printers. If you are a beginner at 3d printing, we strongly recommend that you start with our smaller [[Vorpal the Hexapod]] project. It's a 16 hour print, requires a lot less bridging, and less than a tenth as much practice.

===OBTAINING THE STL FILES===
We have posted the STL files to [http://www.thingiverse.com Thingiverse]. Search for "Gidget the Gigapod" and they should pop right up.

Please help us by rating the Gidget the Gigapod project (or clicking on the LIKE button, COLLECT button, etc.)!

Please post your builds to places like Thingiverse, pictures to FaceBook, Instagram, etc., and videos of your robot to YouTube! This will help us grow and continue having the resources creating cool new projects for our community.

===MINIMUM PRINTER REQUIREMENTS===
*The bed size should be at least 275mm cube (about 11 inches cube). The largest parts are the six Base and the 3 Cap parts in the x and y directions, and in the Z direction the Leg is largest, so these are the limiting factor on bed size.
* For almost all parts, we recommend PLA PRO plastic (or similiar enhanced PLA plastics that may go under other names like PLA+). These are large parts and so PLA is preferred due it being resistant to warping.
* The boots part is best made of TPU plastic, or similar flexible plastics, to reduce the impact of walking on floors.
===AMOUNT OF PLASTIC FILAMENT===
* About 6 to 7 kg of PLA plastic are needed to print the entire robot and gamepad, assuming no print failures.
* About 200 grams of TPU (or similar flexible plastic) are needed to print the wheels. It is possible to print the wheels out of harder plastics but in that case they might scratch wooden floors, so we suggest TPU or some other flexible, soft plastic.
* The amount of plastic used does depend on plastic type and exact print settings though, so your mileage may vary.

===RECOMMENDED PLASTICS===
*ABS, PETG, and PLA all work well. However, because there are some very large parts, ABS may cause you some warping issues if you don't have a heated bed, enclosure, and a printer tuned well for large parts. PLA is generally easier and has fewer issues with corners peeling off the print bed.
*We use eSun PLA PRO for this project and for us it works very well. PLA PRO is a little more flexible and stronger than typical PLA. We have no problems with warping even on the largest parts.
*For the boots, we used Sainsmart TPU and it works very well. Other flexible plastics would probably also be fine.
*This project requires less flexibility than the smaller Vorpal The Hexapod project, so ABS is not at all required for this project.
===PRINTING TIPS===
This project has been finely tuned to make it easy to 3D print. No additional supports are required for any of the parts (there is a support built into the models for the CAP parts and there are tiny supports built into the hinge parts). In some cases you may want to use brims or rafts to help parts adhere to the print surface. These are large, long prints so using a brim for a little added safety is probably prudent.

There is some significant bridging with some spans up to 45mm (1.8"). It is important to tune your printer and make sure it can handle the bridging before attempting the large parts. A little sagging is ok and a drip or two can be easily removed, but you need decent ability to bridge. There are bridge testing and calibration models posted on sites like Thingiverse that may help you tune your printer before trying the big parts. There are numerous "3d printing tips" type postings on the internet that make suggestions for how to tune for features like bridging.

====PRINT SETTINGS====
We print using the following settings on a Lulzbot TAZ 6 with 0.5mm nozzle:
* 0.4 layer thickness (or whatever layer thickness is the largest that will work on your printer)
* 2mm walls (i.e. four perimeters for a 0.5mm nozzle)
* 1.6 mm top and bottom (i.e. four layers at 0.4mm layer height)
* 25% infill
* You can print with thinner layers if your printer does not support 0.4mm layers or if you want a more refined look, it will just take longer. If you have a large nozzle (0.8mm or more) you should be able to go with bigger layers and save a lot of print time. Please report your findings to us at support@vorpalrobotics.com so we can advise future Makers of this project.

====POST PRINT====
Other than removing brims/rafts, cap and hinge built in supports, and the occasional drip, there is not any special post-processing required after printing. Some of the big bridges might seem a little saggy but generally speaking there's enough tolerance that this won't cause an issue. The biggest bridges are mostly hidden inside the robot so they won't affect cosmetics.

====PRO TIPS====
*Do routine maintenance on your printer before printing the big parts: lubricate rods and lead screws, check bed leveling, replace nozzle if worn, do a calibration print, clean your print surface, etc. A few minutes of preparation will help you nail these prints and make a project you can be very proud of!
*Print the large parts (Base, Cap) at the ''start'' of new spools. The last thing you want is to run out of filament 95% of the way through a big part.
*Print the smallest parts (servo stops, hinge rings, Leg pegs, gamepad drawer) near the end of a spool.
*If you have a large format printer, it is tempting to kick off several large parts at once and let it run overnight. We would recommend against that--the chances of killing an entire spool of filament due to an overnight power hit or other failure is just not worth it. Take your time, do the big parts one by one. One or two during the day, one overnight. It will all get done soon enough. An extra few days won't matter in the long run.

== Building the Robot ==

You will need the following tools:
*Included in the kit:
** 2mm hex key. A 5/64 inch hex key will also work. This is in the Gigapod Parts bag.
** 7/64 hex key at least 6" long (150mm). It needs to be long enough to reach screws through access holes in the Base and Cap. This is in the Gigapod Parts Bag.
*Not included in the kit:
** Optional: A marker that can write on dark plastic and still be seen, such as Sharpie Metallic or Sharpie Oil markers (white and yellow work great on dark colored plastic, black or blue work well on light colored plastic). This can be used to make raised lettering on the robot and gamepad more visible.
** Optional: Needle nose pliers can be helpful for holding nuts in place while tightening screws.
** Optional: Slip-joint pliers can be helpful for forcing the skate bearings into their press-fit locations on the Leg Hinges

===IMPORTANT WARNING: POWERFUL SERVOS MAY INJURE YOU===
The motors on Gidget the Gigapod are very powerful compared to the smaller Vorpal the Hexapod (or even Max the Megapod) projects. It is possible for the leg motions to pinch fingers or even possibly break fingers or cause other injuries, possibly severe. When powering on the Gigapod you must keep fingers clear of places where the legs/hips can come together. You should mount the included "Pinch Point" stickers around the Base of the robot to warn others. During public demonstrations, keep adults and especially children away from the robot when it's operating. Little kids will definitely try to touch the robot and could be injured, keep them at a safe distance. In case of electrical issues the legs may move unexpectedly. Turning the power off will release the motors. Never carry the Gigapod when it's powered on. For safety, I disconnect the battery when transporting, just to prevent the possibility that the power switch will get hit accidentally.

If the robot is moving in an out of control manner, use a pencil, book, or rod to hit the power switch from a safe distance. The switch is large and easy to turn off.

You must at all times take standard precautions that are typical with large robotic projects.

If you are building your own electrical system please do not skimp by skipping adding the fuse to the circuit. This project may draw significant amperage and fuse protection is required.

===Step by Step Instructions===
PLEASE NOTE: These instructions are currently in draft state, and I've used diagrams from Max the Megapod here temporarily. The construction is very similar, although you will note some discrepancies such as the BASE for the Megapod comes in 3 parts while in the Gigapod it comes in 6 parts. Still, the construction is analogous. I'll be replacing diagrams for the parts that are not the same first.

====STEP 1: Build the BASE====
* STEP 1A: Take the six outer parts of the base (STL files: Base-1, Base-2, ... Base-6) and arrange them to form the "bowl" of the base. Make sure the servo numbers are in the right order as you move clockwise around the six parts! It's possible to assemble them in the wrong order if you don't check.
* STEP 1B: There are matching screw holes positioned on little rectangular outcroppings on the inside of the top ring, these require screws to bind the three parts together. Use six 1/4-20 by 1.25 inch socket head screws, toothed lock washers, and nuts to secure them. There is an access hole in the rim of the robot to allow the hex key to turn the screw. You may need to hold the nut in place using needle-nose pliers. Repeat for all six sections.
<gallery mode=packed heights=250>
File:Base-Exploded-View.JPG|Line up the six main pieces of the base, ensuring the servo numbers are in order.
File:Access-Hole-In-Base.jpg|Small access holes are strategically placed around the base so the hex key can turn the screws to secure the three base pieces.
File:Securing-Base-Sections.jpg|Use the access hole in the Base parts to secure screws that bind the three base parts together.
File:Megapod-Foam-Squares.jpg|Peel the backing off the foam squares that came with the kit and attach them to the bottom of the base. Stack them on top of each other.
</gallery>
* STEP 1C: Take the Base Bottom part and place it inside the base. There is a nub in one place that will only allow it to be inserted in one orientation. Use six 1/4-20 by 3/4 inch screws with nuts and lock washers in the outer ring of holes in the bottom to secure it to the base. The head of the screw should be on the outside of the robot and nuts should secure the screws on the inside.
* STEP 1D: Take the foam squares that came in your kit and stick them on the bottom of the robot, reasonably centered. These foam pads will reduce the shock and stress on the robot when it goes down to the floor on certain dance moves. Without these pads, the robot leg servos and body structure may undergo too much stress.

====STEP 2: Install the electrical system in the base====
* STEP 2A: Take the potentiometer and remove its dial cap, then unscrew the nut and set these items aside for now (don't lose them). Push the potentiometer shaft from the inside of the chassis into the hole that is surrounded by the markings "STOP", "TST", etc. The wires coming out of the potentiometer should be pointing down. The little metal nub sticking out of the potentiometer should match with a tiny rectangular hole that is near the marking "TST". Put the retaining nut on the potentiometer, hand tighten first and then give it just another half turn or so with pliers if desired. Turn the knob all the way counter-clockwise, then insert the knob so it points to the letter "O" in the word "STOP".
* STEP 2B: Take the large DPST on/off switch (which is attached to the battery holder and power distribution assembly) and thread the switch wires from the inside through the gap at the bottom of the switch hole (see picture). Carefully push the wires one by one through the slot below the switch hole. Once all the wires are through, push the switch into the switch hole. It should be oriented with the "1" to the right. Press carefully into the hole, it should snap firmly in place.
** If the fit is too tight to get the switch in place, lightly sanding or filing the hole to make it a tiny bit larger should work.
<gallery mode=packed heights=200>
File:Switch-Insert-1.jpg|Thread the switch and its wires through the Base, there is an opening under the switch hole.
File:Switch-Insert-2.jpg|Bring the wires up through the small gap below the switch hole. Be careful with the large wires, they require some pressure or some flexing of the plastic to get through.
File:Switch-Insert-3.jpg|All the wires are now coming through the switch hole.
File:Switch-Insert-4.jpg|Press the switch into the hole, it should snap into place. The "1" should be to the right.
</gallery>

====STEP 3: Insert servos in the chassis====
* Next, insert the servo into the chassis as shown in the diagrams. As you insert the servo into the chassis, slowly press it straight into place until it fully seats. Use a servo stopper and one 1/4-20 by 2 inch nylon hex bolts to secure the servos in place. The nylon bolts should retain in the holes even though there are no threads and no nut used. If you find them working themselves loose, you could wrap a bit of electrical tape around the end of the screw to make the fit tighter.
<gallery mode=packed heights=250>
File:Servo-in-Base-2.jpg|Insert each servo with the wire coming out away from the robot as shown here. Press in completely.
File:Servo-in-Base-3.jpg|Insert a servo stopper (shown in red) and secure with nylong bolt. Thread the wire into the body of the robot through the hole as shown.
</gallery>

====STEP 4: Build the Legs====
=====STEP 4A: Assemble Boot and Wheel=====
Because of the large size of the Gigapod, the leg is assembled using several parts (whereas it is a single part with the smaller hexapod designs). The extra part that is attached at the tip of the main leg piece is called the boot. Each boot is tipped by a TPU wheel. This reduces friction when the robot needs to stand, but provides traction when legs move laterally to walk. The TPU wheel is secured by a #6-32 x 1 inch screw, lock washer, and nut as shown in the diagram below. The entire boot/wheel assembly is attached to the main leg using two bushings, one of which has a hex-shaped indentation to retain a #6-32 nut.
<gallery mode=packed heights=350>
File:Gigapod-Leg-Assembly-Wheel-Boot.PNG|Parts for Boot and Wheel. The boot goes over the main leg and is secured with two leg bushings and a #6-32 1.75" screw, nut, and lock washer. The wheel is attached between two wheel bushings and is secured with a #6-32 x 1" screw, lock washer, and nut.
File:Gigapod-Leg-Assembly-Bearing-Peg.PNG|Insert Bearing Peg (red). The servo will lock it in place, there are no screws required.
</gallery>

=====STEP 4B: Insert Servos in Legs=====
The technique is very similar to inserting the servo into the chassis.
*Insert the servo straight into the leg socket so that the wire is coming out of the servo facing away from the plastic leg and the face of the servo with the shaft and servo horn goes into the open faced side of the leg, as shown in the diagram.
*Secure the servo in place with a servo stopper and one 2 inch nylong bolt as you did with the hip servos in the base.
*The servos in the legs are called the "knee" servos. Each leg has a higher number on it, this is the knee number, they run from 6 to 11. Again, write this number on the black connector at the end of the servo wire. PRO TIP: For 6 and 9, underline the number so you don't read them upside down!
*Cut a 12 inch length of braided wire covering. Seal the threads at the end using a lighter for a couple seconds to melt them. Be careful not to set on fire. Thread the knee servo wires through the braided wire covering. This will help protect the servo wires, and also makes the robot look better. You may need to use electrical tape or a zip tie to secure the end of the braided covering to the end of the servo wire where it comes out of the servo.
<gallery mode=packed heights=200>
File:Servo-Insert-Leg-v2.png|Insert Servos in Legs
File:Servo-Leg-Inserted-v2.png|Push until fully seated
File:Servo-Stopper-In-Leg.jpg|Use the servo stopper and two screws to lock the servo in place
</gallery>

*Thread each leg servo wire (with braided covering) into the bottom wire guide slot on the chassis. Each leg servo should be matched with a hip servo plus 6. The legs are marked with the hip number near the top and the knee number below that. For example, the leg marked 6 should be threaded through the wire guide on hip servo 0, leg 7 goes with hip 1, leg 8 goes with hip 2, etc. Add 6 to the hip number to get the leg number.

====STEP 5: Plug in the Servos====
Thread the servo wires into the chassis using the routing holes, as you did with the hip servos. The power distribution harness has marked servo extension sockets for each servo. Each hip servo is marked on the BASE showing its number. the knee servo for each hip is numbered six higher than its corresponding hip. For example, hip servo number 3 will be attached to knee servo number 9, because 3+6=9.

When plugging the servos in, make sure you match the light yellow servo wire to the white servo extension wire, and the dark brown servo wire should match with the black servo extension wire.

====STEP 6: Make Robot Electrical Connections====

If you are self-sourcing, use the diagram below in the electrical section to make the rest of the robot's electrical connections. You'll be using the Robot Arduino Nano (marked "R"), the Servo Driver, Bluetooth Module marked "S", the buzzer, and a bunch of jumper wires. Make sure you use the longer jumper wires for the SDA and SCL connections between the Nano and the Servo Driver.
If you bought a kit from us, all connections are already made, other than plugging the servos into the marked servo extension connectors.

====STEP 7: Assemble the leg hinges====
[[File:Servo-Bracket-Alignment-v1.png|thumb|350px|right|Align the leg hinges as shown here. The bumps (see arrows) should both be near each other when properly aligned. Hold one in each hand with the ends of the U shape between thumb and forefinger.]]
Each leg hinge is composed of two identical U-shaped parts. Take one in each hand and align the two so that the bump (shown in the diagram at the right) are both near each other. Turn one 90 degrees with respect to the other.
*Gently squeeze each piece between thumb and forefinger, which causes the little jaws in the center to open up slightly. Work the two halves together. Keep squeezing harder until the ends slide into place.
*If you used PLA and are finding it hard to bend, briefly soaking the pieces in very hot tap water has been reported to make it easier. Take care not to scald yourself, the water does not have to be boiling, just hot from the tap. You only need to dip the ends that will lock over each other, not the parts you will squeeze. Use caution.
*At this stage, you may notice that the parts are loosely clamped on each other (this depends on plastic used and whether your printer over- or under-extrudes). Don't worry! When you place the leg hinges over a servo, the servo will spread it apart and they will lock together more tightly.
* Use a #6-32 1" screw and matching nut through the center hole of the two joined leg hinges to secure the hinges further. (This is necessary because the gigapod's hinges are under much more stress than in the megapod or hexapod.)
*Insert a 6202ZZ bearing into the socket on one side of the leg hinges. Pliers may be necessary to press them into place. Make sure you clean up any drips inside the recessed area for the skate bearing before attempting to insert the bearings. If you have a lot of trouble getting them in, you could heat up that part of the hinge in hot tap water to soften the plastic, or use a butane lighter (carefully! don't stop moving it) to soften the plastic before inserting the bearing.

====STEP 8: Attach Leg Hinges====
The leg hinges connect the hips to the knees. They only go on one way. If you made sure to align the bumps when assembling the leg hinges, this will result in correct orientation of all legs.
*First place the end that matches the servo horn on about halfway. Make sure the servo horn slides under the little pocket at the end of recessed area that accepts the horn.
*Very slightly bend the U shaped piece while pulling the skate bearing side over the hemispherical bump on the other side of the servo holding area. It's a little easier to do the knees (servos mounted to legs) first, followed by the hips (servos on base).
*NOTE: It will be a tight fit, but it should not be excessively difficult to push the hinge over the bearing.
*When completed, double check to make sure the servo horn went into the covered pocket at the end of its recessed area. This pocket keeps the horn from slipping out of the hinge during stressful operations.

====STEP 9: Enclose the electronics modules in their caddies====

Now things look pretty messy with all those wires hanging loose, let's clean it up by stowing the Arduino Nano, Bluetooth module and Servo Driver in their caddies. The caddies will keep them safe by making sure they can't short out against each other or touch screws, etc.
* '''STEP 9A: Insert Caddy Bars''' Insert the electronics caddy bars as shown in the diagrams below. Notice carefully how they are inserted. Don't insert them upside down, the little hump should be facing inward toward the caddy. You may need to slightly squeeze the forked section at the end to work it into the hole. Once inside, it may be difficult to remove because it will snap into place, so be sure you're putting it in the right way.
<gallery mode=packed heights=300>
File:Insert-Caddy-Bar-1.jpg|Insertion of the caddy bar into the Nano caddy. Notice the orientation, don't put the bar in upside down. The same technique is used for the Servo Driver Caddy.
</gallery>
* '''STEP 9B: Insert the Arduino Nano into its caddy''' Carefully insert the Nano as shown, making sure you don't pull out any of the wires. You may need to wiggle the caddy bar from side to side a bit so that components can slide past it during insertion. Notice that the end of the Nano that has the USB port must go in last.

<gallery mode=packed heights=250>
File:Insert-Nano-In-Caddy-1.jpg|Insert the Nano in the orientation shown.
File:Insert-Nano-In-Caddy-2.jpg|You may need to wiggle it a bit or press on the bar to work it into place.
File:Insert-Nano-In-Caddy-3.jpg|Note how the USB port is accessible through the top after full insertion.
</gallery>

* '''STEP 9C: Insert the Servo Driver into its caddy''' Carefully insert the Servo Driver as shown, making sure you don't pull out any of the wires. You may need to wiggle the caddy bar from side to side a bit so that components can slide past it during insertion. Notice that the end of the Servo controller with wires sticking out of it must go in last.

<gallery mode=packed heights=200>
File:Insert-ServoDriver-In-Caddy-1.jpg|Insert the Servo Driver in the orientation shown.
File:Insert-ServoDriver-In-Caddy-2.jpg|You may need to wiggle it a bit or press on the bar to work it into place.
File:Insert-ServoDriver-In-Caddy-3.jpg|Note that the end with the wires goes in last.
</gallery>

* '''STEP 9D: Insert the HC05 Bluetooth Module''' The diagrams here do not show the wires to make them easier to visualize. The HC05 Bluetooth module with a name beginning with "S" should be used for the robot. For example, the label will read something like "VORP S2944" (the number will differ). The one marked "M" will be used for the gamepad. Slide the HC05 into the side drawer as shown. When inserting, be careful not to pull out the wires, which will be a little tight. Work the wires into the little space provided so they stay clear of the robot's cap when it gets screwed on later.

<gallery mode=packed heights=250>
File:Insert-HC05-in-Caddy-1.jpg|Insert the HC05 into the side drawer of the Nano Caddy as shown.
File:Insert-HC05-in-Caddy-2.jpg|When fully inserted, the indicator light will still be visible through the small oval.
File:Insert-HC05-in-Caddy-3.jpg|The wires should be tucked into the little cavity near the pins of the HC05.
</gallery>

====STEP 10: Power up!====
Make sure the on/off switch is off, and the knob is turned to STOP. Attach the proper batteries (a 9v recharageable NIMH or LI-ON, and an 8.4 volt 4000 or more mAh NIMH with XT60 connector) and power on the robot using the on/off switch. You should hear a beep, a pause, then a second beep. The servos should all twitch into position. If the robot does not move at all, immediately turn the switch off and check your connections again. If some of the servos don't move then gently push them with power off to see if you can free them up. If they still won't move, try pushing them with power applied, but turn off the power within 30 seconds if they're locked up. If you can't get the servo to move it will need to be replaced.

[[File:Servo-Horn-Orientation.png|thumb|right|The servo horn should come straight out from the body at a 90 degree angle as shown here. Do not turn the servo shaft by hand until after it has moved under power!]]

====STEP 11: Insert Servo Horns====
The servo horns are all at random-ish angles right now. In this step we'll make them point in the right direction. The knee servos are not at 90 degrees when the knob is all the way counter clockwise, rather they are at a 30 degree standing angle.

We need to get them to 90 degrees so its easy to align the servo horn, and this is done by going into "Adjust Mode". Turn the knob very slightly clockwise until you hear a beep, then stop. After about one second you will see all the knee servos twitch. This is "adjust servo horn mode". All servos (knees and hips) are now at their halfway point, 90 degrees.

Now you need to take each single arm servo horn and carefully insert it on the shaft so that it is sticking straight out as shown in the figure. You will not always be able to make the horn come totally straight out. This is because there are only 22 little groves (splines) in each shaft, meaning you can in general only come within about 8 degrees of being at a perfect 90 degree angle. This amount of error is acceptable for now, just get it as close as you can. Later we'll use Trim Mode to make fine adjustments.

====STEP 12: Test Knee Positions====
Turn the knob fully counter clockwise (to STOP) and the robot will go into "stand still" mode. Place it on a level surface such as a table top. Do all of the legs touch the ground? If one or more legs don't touch the ground, you need to adjust the servo horn on the knee a little bit so it does touch. Gently pull off the servo bracket. Pull the servo horn off, and put it back on just a little bit moved so the leg would move closer to the ground. Put the servo bracket back on, and see how it looks. Do this until all legs are at least slightly touching the ground. Again, you can't necessarily be perfect due to the 8 degree increments the servo horns can be moved. But you should be able to be close enough that all legs at least slightly touch the ground.

====STEP 13: Insert Servo Screws====
Now that the legs are adjusted, you can insert the M3x12 screws (with M3 lock washers) into the servo horns to lock them in place. Note that you will NOT be using the screws that were in the little bag the servos came in, you'll be using the separate pack of screws, which are longer than the ones in the servo bag. Do not overtighten these screws, as you could possibly crack the servo brackets. Just turn the screws until you start to feel resistance, then turn a quarter turn more and stop.

====STEP 14: Test the Servos====
*'''STEP 14A: Using TST Mode'''
**To test whether every servo is working, put the robot on something that will lift its legs off the table top, but won't interfere with the legs (a small box or stack of books will work).
**Start with the knob on STOP, then slowly turn it clockwise. You'll hear one beep (Adjust mode), then a second beep (Test mode). Stop turning and the robot will go into "individual servo test mode". In this mode, every hip servo will move, one by one. When all the hips have moved, every leg will move, one by one. You should see every servo move, in order. If some don't move, check your connections. A common error is to plug a servo connector into the servo controller backwards (i.e. the brown wire is matched with the yellow pin instead of the black pin). If the servos do not move in a sensible order, that probably means you plugged a couple of servos into the wrong sockets in the electrical harness.

*'''STEP 14B: Test Using Demo Mode'''
**Ok, everything looks good, so time for a full test. Turn the knob to STOP, then put the robot on the floor, somewhere that has at least a few feet of room in each direction. (Caution: it's tempting to do this on a table top, but unless you have a huge table this is not advisable, Max will run pretty fast at some points during the demo.)
**Turn the knob to DEMO, and about one second later the robot will go through a series of movements to demonstrate some of the things it can do. The full demo only takes about 30 seconds, then repeats. Here, you are looking for the robot to, for example, be able to get back up off the floor after doing some of its dance moves.
**If the robot struggles to get off the floor, you may have a battery that is not fully charged, or there may be drips or other obstructions stopping some legs from moving fully. See the [[Vorpal Combat_Hexapod Troubleshooting Guide|Trouble Shooting Guide]] for more information about different kinds of issues that can occur. That guide was written for the small robot, but most of the things that can go wrong with the Gigapod are similar to the things that can go wrong with Vorpal The Hexapod.

====STEP 15: Store electronics and wires in the Base====
Carefully stow the caddies into the base, using any available convenient space. NOTE: Unlike the small hexapod and megapod, the Gigapod saves weight by not having any service access covers. This makes it look messier when the top is off, but the savings in weight was necessary to avoid servo stress.
<gallery mode=packed heights=250>
File:All-Electronics-Inserted-In-Base.jpg|Carefully stow the caddies into the base, being careful not to pull out any wires.
</gallery>

====STEP 16: Assemble the Cap====
*'''STEP 16A: Assemble the Four Cap Parts'''
**First assemble the three large pieces after removing the support coming out of the center. Be aware that there is a correct ordering to them, the two flaps that stick out near the bottom need to be opposite each other so the cap can slot into the Base and lock in place. Use #6-32 x 1 inch screws plus nylox locking nuts to secure the three parts together as shown. There are access holes around the rim that allow the hex key to reach the screws. Use nuts and locking washers to secure the screws.
**Secure the top of the cap onto the bottom three pieces using three 1 inch #6 socket screws and their associated nylox locking nuts.
<gallery mode=packed heights=250>
File:Cap-Exploded.JPG|Arrangement of the four Cap parts. Note that this diagram shows the support in place, this should actually be removed prior to assembly.
File:CAP-Assembly-order.JPG|Make sure the two flaps at the rim are opposite each other when ordering the three main parts.
</gallery>
* '''STEP 16B: Put Hook-and-loop on Cap''' Peel and stick on the "hook" side of a 1" piece of hook-and-loop on each flat circular decoration holder on the cap.
* '''STEP 16C: Decorate''' If desired, use a permanent marker to color the Vorpal "V" on top of the Cap. Oil markers work well. On light colors of plastic a black permanent marker will also work.
* '''STEP 16D: Put Cap on the Hexapod'''
**Screw the cap on the robot by lining up the tabs with the matching slots in the rim of the base. Turn the cap clockwise to lock it in place. IMPORTANT: Do not press down on the robot to insert the cap when the robot is under power standing on its legs! You can damage the leg motors by doing this. It is best to turn the robot off, and either support the bottom of the Base with one hand and press the Cap on with the other, or set the Base down on the table top or floor with legs out to the sides so they don't take pressure.
**If the cap is too loose and swivels while the robot moves, this can be fixed by putting a bit of tape on the cap's flaps to make them a little thicker. The tightness of the cap depends a lot on printer settings, over- or under-extrusion, etc.

====STEP 17: Warning Label====
There are self-stick choking hazard warning labels and also several pinch point warning labels in the hexapod parts bag. Peel the backing off one choking hazard lable and place it on the bottom of the robot, near the center. Retain the second label for the gamepad. The pinch point warnings should be placed around the body of the robot, above the legs, in visible positions. Depending on what kind of plastic you're using, they might or might not stick well. If they don't stick, use glue (such as cyanoacrilate "super glue" or even hot glue) to secure them. The warning labels are not optional! They are necessary for safety. The motors are powerful and can snap your fingers like a twig, or cause severe pinch injuries, sprains, or bruises.

==== Step 18: Trimming the Servos ====
When you assembled the servo horns onto the servos, you probably were not able to get them all to come out exactly at a 90 degree angle. That's not your fault: the servo horns only have 22 possible positions in which they can be installed, so at best you can come within plus or minus 8 degrees of perfection.

Now that you have the gamepad working, you can make fine adjustments to the servo positions using "Trim Mode". In this special gamepad mode, you can adjust all the servos to within a fraction of a degree. These adjustments are saved in the robot's EEPROM, which is memory on the Nano that retains data even when powered off. So, you only need to trim once.

Complete instructions on how to use trim mode are in the wiki page: [[Vorpal The Hexapod Trim Mode Guide]]. That guide was written for the smaller robot, but the instructions are identical for the Gigapod.

NOTE: although this step is optional, it is strongly recommended because your robot will walk straighter and all the servos will share equally in lifting the robot's weight, which will make them last longer.

====Step 19: Assembling Eye Decorations====
Peel and stick a piece of "loop" from the supplied hook and loop fasteners on the back of the two eye pieces. This allows you to stick the eyes on the Cap's matching "hook" areas.

NOTE: There are extra hook and loop circles included in your kit. You can create your own attachments, nameplates, etc. using these.

==Electrical Connections: Robot==
Please note that our Gigapod kit comes prewired using our QuickBuild system. The notes in this section are for makers who self-source.

===NOTES ON JUMPER WIRES===

====Wire Lengths====
There are two different lengths of female-female Dupont jumper wires used to make most connections. The longer ones (20cm) are only used for the Hexapod's accessory port connections. The shorter ones are used for all the connections on the Gamepad and all the connections on the Hexapod between the Arduino Nano, Servo controller and Bluetooth module.

====Wire Color Conventions====

Please follow these conventions when selecting wire colors:
* For +5V, Vin, and similar positive voltage connections, use either RED or ORANGE.
* For GND and other negative electrical connections, use BLACK or BROWN.
* For the connectors that sit at the mouth of the accessory port (used for optional sensors) colors are suggested below in the instructions. By following these suggestions you will make your life easier when connecting sensors!
* For all other connections, you can use any color you want, it's arbitrary.

====If Jumper Wires Are Too Loose====
Sometimes you will find a wire whose connector does not grip the pin well enough. It might fall off very easily or just by gravity alone. If that happens, you have a few options:
* There are extra wires in your kit. If you find a wire that's too loose, just use a different wire.
* Using the hex key, you can put the jumper housing on a flat surface then press on the metal showing through the plastic connector, which will tighten up the jumper wire's grip. Don't go too overboard on pressing though or you might make it too hard to insert.
* Alternatively, you could use electrical tape after inserting all the wires on a module (such as the Nano) to effectively attach together all the little plastic female connector housings. In that way, the connectors that do grip will help hold in the ones that are too loose. Some people also like using hot glue for this purpose. (Personally, I don't like using hot glue, as it makes it harder to change connections if you hooked something up incorrectly.)

===NANO PIN CONNECTIONS===
[[File:Megapod-Nano-Connections-v1.JPG|thumb|600px|right|Diagram of Nano connections for the Hexapod. Jumpers marked AP are routed to the Accessory Port for use with add-ons like sensors. Click for larger image.]]
* ''Digital IO Pins:''
** D0, D1 are reserved because they are used for uploading programs to the robot, so nothing will be connected there.
** D2, D3 No connection.
** D4 Buzzer Signal (white wire)
** D5 through D13 No connection. These pins are reserved for future expansion.

* ''Analog Pins:''
** A0 Potentiometer signal (white wire)
** A1 Potentiometer Power (red wire)
** A2 Potentiometer Ground (black wire)
** A3 No connection.
** A4 Servo Controller SDA
** A5 Servo Controller SCL
** A6, A7 No connection.

* ''Power Pins:''
** +5V pin on Nano connects to any of the +5V RED wires coming from the BEC on the power distribution harness.
** GND pin on Nano connects to any of the GND BLACK wires coming from the BEC on the power distribution harness.

===Servo Driver Power Pins===
* Port 0 RED pin on the Servo Driver connects to any of the +5V RED wires coming from the BEC on the power distribution harness.
* Port 0 BLACK GND pin on the Servo Driver connects to any of the GND BLACK wires coming from the BEC on the power distribution harness.

=== Bluetooth Module Power ===
* +5V on HC05 connects to any RED Dupont connector coming off the BEC.
* GND on HC05 connects to any BLACK Dupont connector coming off the BEC.

=== Buzzer Power ===
* Plug the buzzer into the unused port 15 on the servo driver, making sure the red and black wires on the buzzer power match the red and black rows of pins on the servo driver.

=== Servo Driver ===
[[File:Megapod-ServoDriverConnections.jpg|thumb|600px|right|Diagram of Servo Controller pins you will use in this project. Each servo motor has a 3 wire connector that should be plugged into the corresponding servo number extension connector in the power distribution harness. The white wires coming out of the harness in groups of four should be connected to the yellow line or ports, matching the number ranges to port numbers. Note that the black and red rows of pins are not used, power is provided to the servos through the power distribution harness. Click for larger image.]]
* Connect the 12 servos to power distribution harness connectors marked with port numbers corresponding to the servo marking (0 to 11). Make sure the signal wire (yellow) is oriented correctly and matches the yellow plastic header pin.
* Connect the groups of four white wires which are marked with servo port numbers to the Servo Driver yellow pins, matching the Servo Driver pin number to the port numbers written on the 4-pin Dupont connectors coming out of the power distribution harness.
* Connect one of the +5V RED regulated BEC outputs to the RED port 0 pin of the Servo Driver. Connect one of the GND black pins coming out of the BEC to the BLACK port 0 GND pin on the Servo Driver.
* On one short side of the Servo Controller you will find a VCC and V+ pin right next to each other. Use a shunt (small black connector that goes over two pins) to connect those together if one is not already installed. Without this shunt the Servo Driver will not work.
* SDA and SCL go to A4 and A5 on the Nano, respectively.



== Building the Gamepad ==
The gamepad for Gidget the Gigapod is identical to the Gamepad for Vorpal The Hexapod (and also Max the Megapod).

Please see instructions on [[Vorpal_The_Hexapod_Building_Instructions#Building_the_Gamepadd|the Vorpal Hexapod Gamepad Assembly instructions]].

{{Gigapod Quick Links}}

Gidget The Gigapod Assembly Instructions

2021-03-21T18:50:32Z

Vorpalwiki: /* Notes on Sourcing Parts Yourself */

==LIMITED AVAILABILITY==

Our kits for this project are special order at this time. Allow two weeks for us to ship. Because the parts are relatively heavy, shipping to areas outside the USA is expensive. For makers outside the USA, you may want to try to acquire the parts locally. But beware of subsitutions! Walking robots have very precise requirements and any substitutions of parts may cause the project not to function as expected.

Warning: The 3D printed parts for this project consume a lot of plastic and the print (on our own printers) is over 200 hours for all the parts. (It's not 200 hours straight, it's multiple print jobs each running 6 to 16 hours.) You shouldn't attempt this unless you're prepared for long print times and your printer is well tuned to make failures rare.

NEW: our Megapod and Gigapod kits are now standard with the "Quickbuild" electrical system. This cuts over an hour off the build time.

==Gidget The Gigapod Construction==
[[File:Giga-Mega-Hexa-Stacked.jpg|right|thumb|Gigapod, Megapod, Hexapod relative sizes]]
Gidget The Gigapod is a very large, 3d printed, hexapod robot. This page gives complete instructions for building this project. If you are new to 3d printing, you probably don't want to start with this one, though. Please consider our smaller [[Vorpal The Hexapod]] project instead.
==BILL OF MATERIALS (BOM) FOR GIDGET THE GIGAPOD==
===Notes on Sourcing Parts Yourself===
* These instructions assume you have purchased a kit from us (kits are currently a special order item). If you are sourcing your own parts, please be aware of the following additional information:
**If you are sourcing your own parts, you need to build the power distribution connector assembly. This is identical to the power distribution system for [[Max The Megapod]]. For diagrams see [[Max The Megapod Battery/Switch Construction]] except that it uses an XT60 connector instead of Tamaya for the large battery, and it uses a 30 amp fuse instead of a 15 amp fuse. This will take about 2 hours of soldering and labelling work.
**Also see important information on that page if you are sourcing your own BEC.
**If you are sourcing your own Bluetooth modules, please be aware that you will need to configure them to auto-pair and to have a UART speed of 38400 BAUD. Every module brand's firmware is a bit different so it's not possible for us to give you universal instructions on how to program them. We assume that if you source your own parts you are familiar with how to configure Bluetooth modules using AT-commands. (You can find tutorials online or videos on youtube, but like we said, different modules may not exactly match instructions you will find so be prepared to fiddle around a bit). Please do not ask our customer support for help on this topic. We sell pre-configured modules that auto-pair on boot for a very reasonable price.
**If you are sourcing your own Arduino Nano modules, you will need to flash the robot and gamepad code on them. You can find the latest stable release of code at the [https://tinyurl.com/VORPALFILES Vorpal Hexapod Public Dropbox folder]. The source code tree is posted in our github repository, but the top of that tree may not be stable. Note: there is currently no difference in software between the large and small versions of the hexapod other than a single #define called HEXSIZE. For the gigapod, this should be set to 2.
* Please be very careful about substitutions. You might think you can substitute cheaper parts for the ones specified here. Don't bet on it. Walking robots are extremely difficult to design, and we've chosen each part for a good reason. For example, if you try to substitute cheaper servos you are very likely to find that they don't provide enough torque for the robot to stand up, or they burn out within minutes due to being over-stressed. If you substitute a different battery voltage, you'll either fry the servos or they won't have enough torque. It took 1,000 hours of work to design the smaller hexapod on which this one is based, then another 500 hours of redesign, testing, and tuning to get the big version working well. If you want to try substitutions, okay, but please don't expect it to work without many hours of adjustments and testing.
* Full kits of parts as well as individual parts are available on [http://store.vorpalrobotics.com The Vorpal Robotics Store]. If you are new to Arduino and robotics we strongly recommend you purchase a kit instead of trying to self-source parts (and truthfully, if you're not experienced with this kind of project you really should build the smaller [[Vorpal The Hexapod]] kit first. The Gigapod kit is a special order item and may not ship for up to 2 full weeks after ordering (plus shipping time which is typically a few days for USA orders and 2 to 4 weeks for non-USA orders).
* Our kits cut 4 to 5 hours off the build time, bringing it to typically 2 to 3 or so hours. The kits have all soldering done, programs are already loaded on the Nanos, Bluetooth modules are properly configured, most electrical wiring already connected properly and tested in our workshop. And, you know you have all the right parts to work together. About half the people who self-source parts end up buying parts that are incorrect or are so cheap that they will quickly fail (and they end up spending more money and far more time than if they had simply bought a kit to start with!)

=== ROBOT BOM ===
[[File:Choking-Hazard-Image.jpg|right|350px]]
[[File:PinchPoint-Warning.JPG|right|350px]]

* ''Electronics:''
** Passive Piezo Buzzer module and 3 wire cable (see image) [[File:Passive-Piezo-Buzzer-Module.jpg|right|thumb|Passive Piezo Buzzer Module]]
** Arduino Nano, 5V, 16 mHz, ATMEGA328 or similar (marked RM in our kit to indicate it is pre-loaded with Gigapod robot software)
** Rotary potentiometer, 10K Ohms, 6mm shaft diameter, with 3 wires pre-soldered. Also, matching dial cap and nut. If you are self-sourcing see our instructions: [[Max The Megapod Battery/Switch Construction]]
** 1 x HC05 BlueTooth Module with F-F jumper wires for making connections (our kit electronics are pre-wired for you)
** 1 x Servo Controller module (Adafruit 16-channel 12-bit I2C PWM/Servo driver or Adafruit clone) with F-F jumper wires for making connections, plus 1 two-pin shunt tying V+ to VCC
** 12 x DS5160 SSG 180 degree, 60 kg-cm torque servo motors with metal servo horns. Be sure you order the 180 degree version, these servos also come in a 270 degree version.
** 1 x Power distribution wiring harness with DPST on/off switch, Fuse, XT60 battery connector, 3A 5V BEC, and servo extension connectors. If you are self-sourcing see our wiring instructions: [[Max The Megapod Battery/Switch Construction|Circuit Diagrams]]. (The battery/switch circuit for the Gigapod is identical to that of the Megapod except it uses an XT60 connector for the large battery and it uses a 30 amp fuse instead of a 15 amp fuse.)
* ''3D Printed Parts:''
All STL files are available from our [[http://tinyurl.com/VORPALFILES Vorpal Public Files Dropbox]] under the STL sub-folder.
** 6 Robot Base Parts and bottom plate to hold the parts together.
** 4 Cap parts which screw together to form the cap of the robot.
** 6 x Legs
** 6 x Boots that will be assembled with wheels.
** 6 x Boot Bushings, cap side, to hold boots onto main legs (the screw goes in this side)
** 6 x Boot Bushings, nut side, to hold boots onto main legs (this side has a hex cutout to hold a hex nut).
** 6 x TPU wheels that are installed in the Boot
** 12 x Wheel bushings that sandwich the wheel, acting as spacers
** 6 x TPU Shoes to provide better traction. These should be printed in TPU or other flexible plastics so they absorb some impact during walking. They should only be used on surfaces with low friction. They should be removed if walking on asphalt or other rough surfaces.
** 12 x Servo Stops. These parts hold the servos in their compartments both in the base and the legs.
** 12 x Servo Bearing Pegs. These insert into the servo compartments and provide a secure place for the bearings to sit.
** 12 x Leg Hinge halves with Leg Hinge Rings. The rings stop layer separation issues under stress.
** 1 x Electronics Caddy to hold Arduino Nano
** 1 x Electronics Caddy to hold the Servo Driver
** 2 x Eye/glasses Decoration
** 8 x 1 inch diameter hook-and-loop self stick circles to attach of eyes and other decorations
* ''Screws and Fasteners''
** 12 x Nylon bolts 1/4-20 x 2" long. These can be partially threaded. Note that it is important for these to be made of nylon for weight savings. These are used to secure servos in place using the servo stopper part.
** 12 x M3x20mm button head screws (with matching flat washers and external tooth washers) to secure servo arms to servo through the screw hole in the hinge.
** 6 x #6-32 x 1.75" long cap screws plus nuts to attach boots onto the end of the leg
** 6 x #6-32 x 1" long cap screws plus nuts to provide axles for the boot wheels.
** 6 x 1/4-20 x 1.25" long cap screw plus nylox locking nuts for holding the BASE parts together
** 6 x 1/4-20 x 3/4" long cap screw plus nylox locking nuts for holding the BOTTOM onto the BASE assembly
** 6 x #6-32 cap screws plus nylox locking nuts for holding the CAP and CAP TOPPER parts together
** 6 x #6-32 cap screws plus nylox locking nuts for holding the LEG HINGES together. Note that the smaller versions of the robot depend on a snap-together system to hold the hinges together, but the larger Gigapod requires a screw through the center hole to ensure the hinges remain together.
** If you are self-sourcing and building your own electrical system, you will also need 10 x #6-32 x 1/2" screws to hold the power distribution plastic covers together. If you buy our kit, these are already installed on the wiring harness.
* ''Miscellaneous Mechanical Parts:''
** 12 x 6202ZZ Double Metal Seal Bearings 15x35x11mm for leg hinges
** 12 x 608zz Skate Bearings with nylon coated wheel, dimensions: 27.5mm diameter wheel, 8mm inner diameter on bearing, 8mm wide.
* ''Tools Required (Not included in kit)''
** Hex drivers for the various sized bolts and screws.
** Needle nose pliers are useful for holding the nuts while assembling BASE and CAP parts.
** 3 x Pinch Point Stickers. Place these around the robot Base to warn onlookers not to touch the robot. Some kinds of plastic may not stick well to the adhesive, you may need to secure with hot glue or superglue or similar.
* ''Batteries and Chargers''
** The Gigapod uses a 4200 mAH (a little more is okay but don't go too high due to weight considerations) 7-cell NIMH battery (8.4 Volts) with male XT60 connector and compatible charger, such as: [https://www.batteryspace.com/nimhbatterypack84v4200mahhumpbatterypacksforrctraxxasandlosietc.aspx BatterySpace 42000 mAH 8.4 V NIMH] (We use that one for demos with the 14 gauge wire option, and we solder on an XT60 male connector in-house. You get about 30 minutes of run time with this battery.)
**The Gigapod also requires one 9v battery, we recommend NIMH or LI-ON rechargeable with compatible charger.
** The gamepad takes any kind of standard 9v rectangular batter, either rechargeable or disposable work fine. These are commonly available from many sources. We recommend rechargeable NIMH or LI-ON 9v batteries with compatible charger.
** Note that we do not provide batteries or chargers with our kits due to licenses required to ship batteries.
NOTE ON BATTERY SAFETY: Never leave batteries in the Gigapod or gamepad after use. If either one gets turned on accidentally, overdraining the battery may damage or destroy it. As soon as the Gigapod has trouble moving or sags under its own weight, immediately stop and replace with fresh batteries.

=== GAMEPAD BOM AND ASSEMBLY ===
The gamepad for Gidget the Gigapod is identical to the gamepad for Vorpal The Hexapod. See instructions for the gamepad here: [[Vorpal_The_Hexapod_Building_Instructions#Building_the_Gamepadd|Vorpal The Hexapod Gamepad Assembly instructions]]

==Printing the Plastic Parts==

This section assumes you have basic familiarity with 3D printing and 3D printing terminology. If not, you might want to reference online materials such as youtube videos or information from your 3D printer manufacturer before attempting this project.

Please note: it takes over 200 hours to print this project. This is not a project for the faint of heart, or for people who are not experienced in 3d printing and have not tuned and maintained their printers. If you are a beginner at 3d printing, we strongly recommend that you start with our smaller [[Vorpal the Hexapod]] project. It's a 16 hour print, requires a lot less bridging, and less than a tenth as much practice.

===OBTAINING THE STL FILES===
We have posted the STL files to [http://www.thingiverse.com Thingiverse]. Search for "Gidget the Gigapod" and they should pop right up.

Please help us by rating the Gidget the Gigapod project (or clicking on the LIKE button, COLLECT button, etc.)!

Please post your builds to places like Thingiverse, pictures to FaceBook, Instagram, etc., and videos of your robot to YouTube! This will help us grow and continue having the resources creating cool new projects for our community.

===MINIMUM PRINTER REQUIREMENTS===
*The bed size should be at least 275mm cube (about 11 inches cube). The largest parts are the six Base and the 3 Cap parts in the x and y directions, and in the Z direction the Leg is largest, so these are the limiting factor on bed size.
* For almost all parts, we recommend PLA PRO plastic (or similiar enhanced PLA plastics that may go under other names like PLA+). These are large parts and so PLA is preferred due it being resistant to warping.
* The boots part is best made of TPU plastic, or similar flexible plastics, to reduce the impact of walking on floors.
===AMOUNT OF PLASTIC FILAMENT===
* About 6 to 7 kg of PLA plastic are needed to print the entire robot and gamepad, assuming no print failures.
* About 200 grams of TPU (or similar flexible plastic) are needed to print the wheels. It is possible to print the wheels out of harder plastics but in that case they might scratch wooden floors, so we suggest TPU or some other flexible, soft plastic.
* The amount of plastic used does depend on plastic type and exact print settings though, so your mileage may vary.

===RECOMMENDED PLASTICS===
*ABS, PETG, and PLA all work well. However, because there are some very large parts, ABS may cause you some warping issues if you don't have a heated bed, enclosure, and a printer tuned well for large parts. PLA is generally easier and has fewer issues with corners peeling off the print bed.
*We use eSun PLA PRO for this project and for us it works very well. PLA PRO is a little more flexible and stronger than typical PLA. We have no problems with warping even on the largest parts.
*For the boots, we used Sainsmart TPU and it works very well. Other flexible plastics would probably also be fine.
*This project requires less flexibility than the smaller Vorpal The Hexapod project, so ABS is not at all required for this project.
===PRINTING TIPS===
This project has been finely tuned to make it easy to 3D print. No additional supports are required for any of the parts (there is a support built into the models for the CAP parts and there are tiny supports built into the hinge parts). In some cases you may want to use brims or rafts to help parts adhere to the print surface. These are large, long prints so using a brim for a little added safety is probably prudent.

There is some significant bridging with some spans up to 45mm (1.8"). It is important to tune your printer and make sure it can handle the bridging before attempting the large parts. A little sagging is ok and a drip or two can be easily removed, but you need decent ability to bridge. There are bridge testing and calibration models posted on sites like Thingiverse that may help you tune your printer before trying the big parts. There are numerous "3d printing tips" type postings on the internet that make suggestions for how to tune for features like bridging.

====PRINT SETTINGS====
We print using the following settings on a Lulzbot TAZ 6 with 0.5mm nozzle:
* 0.4 layer thickness (or whatever layer thickness is the largest that will work on your printer)
* 2mm walls (i.e. four perimeters for a 0.5mm nozzle)
* 1.6 mm top and bottom (i.e. four layers at 0.4mm layer height)
* 25% infill
* You can print with thinner layers if your printer does not support 0.4mm layers or if you want a more refined look, it will just take longer. If you have a large nozzle (0.8mm or more) you should be able to go with bigger layers and save a lot of print time. Please report your findings to us at support@vorpalrobotics.com so we can advise future Makers of this project.

====POST PRINT====
Other than removing brims/rafts, cap and hinge built in supports, and the occasional drip, there is not any special post-processing required after printing. Some of the big bridges might seem a little saggy but generally speaking there's enough tolerance that this won't cause an issue. The biggest bridges are mostly hidden inside the robot so they won't affect cosmetics.

====PRO TIPS====
*Do routine maintenance on your printer before printing the big parts: lubricate rods and lead screws, check bed leveling, replace nozzle if worn, do a calibration print, clean your print surface, etc. A few minutes of preparation will help you nail these prints and make a project you can be very proud of!
*Print the large parts (Base, Cap) at the ''start'' of new spools. The last thing you want is to run out of filament 95% of the way through a big part.
*Print the smallest parts (servo stops, hinge rings, Leg pegs, gamepad drawer) near the end of a spool.
*If you have a large format printer, it is tempting to kick off several large parts at once and let it run overnight. We would recommend against that--the chances of killing an entire spool of filament due to an overnight power hit or other failure is just not worth it. Take your time, do the big parts one by one. One or two during the day, one overnight. It will all get done soon enough. An extra few days won't matter in the long run.

== Building the Robot ==

You will need the following tools:
*Included in the kit:
** 2mm hex key. A 5/64 inch hex key will also work. This is in the Gigapod Parts bag.
** 7/64 hex key at least 6" long (150mm). It needs to be long enough to reach screws through access holes in the Base and Cap. This is in the Gigapod Parts Bag.
*Not included in the kit:
** Optional: A marker that can write on dark plastic and still be seen, such as Sharpie Metallic or Sharpie Oil markers (white and yellow work great on dark colored plastic, black or blue work well on light colored plastic). This can be used to make raised lettering on the robot and gamepad more visible.
** Optional: Needle nose pliers can be helpful for holding nuts in place while tightening screws.
** Optional: Slip-joint pliers can be helpful for forcing the skate bearings into their press-fit locations on the Leg Hinges

===IMPORTANT WARNING: POWERFUL SERVOS MAY INJURE YOU===
The motors on Gidget the Gigapod are very powerful compared to the smaller Vorpal the Hexapod (or even Max the Megapod) projects. It is possible for the leg motions to pinch fingers or even possibly break fingers or cause other injuries, possibly severe. When powering on the Gigapod you must keep fingers clear of places where the legs/hips can come together. You should mount the included "Pinch Point" stickers around the Base of the robot to warn others. During public demonstrations, keep adults and especially children away from the robot when it's operating. Little kids will definitely try to touch the robot and could be injured, keep them at a safe distance. In case of electrical issues the legs may move unexpectedly. Turning the power off will release the motors. Never carry the Gigapod when it's powered on. For safety, I disconnect the battery when transporting, just to prevent the possibility that the power switch will get hit accidentally.

If the robot is moving in an out of control manner, use a pencil, book, or rod to hit the power switch from a safe distance. The switch is large and easy to turn off.

You must at all times take standard precautions that are typical with large robotic projects.

If you are building your own electrical system please do not skimp by skipping adding the fuse to the circuit. This project may draw significant amperage and fuse protection is required.

===Step by Step Instructions===
PLEASE NOTE: These instructions are currently in draft state, and I've used diagrams from Max the Megapod here temporarily. The construction is very similar, although you will note some discrepancies such as the BASE for the Megapod comes in 3 parts while in the Gigapod it comes in 6 parts. Still, the construction is analogous. I'll be replacing diagrams for the parts that are not the same first.

====STEP 1: Build the BASE====
* STEP 1A: Take the six outer parts of the base (STL files: Base-1, Base-2, ... Base-6) and arrange them to form the "bowl" of the base. Make sure the servo numbers are in the right order as you move clockwise around the six parts! It's possible to assemble them in the wrong order if you don't check.
* STEP 1B: There are matching screw holes positioned on little rectangular outcroppings on the inside of the top ring, these require screws to bind the three parts together. Use six 1/4-20 by 1.25 inch socket head screws, toothed lock washers, and nuts to secure them. There is an access hole in the rim of the robot to allow the hex key to turn the screw. You may need to hold the nut in place using needle-nose pliers. Repeat for all six sections.
<gallery mode=packed heights=250>
File:Base-Exploded-View.JPG|Line up the six main pieces of the base, ensuring the servo numbers are in order.
File:Access-Hole-In-Base.jpg|Small access holes are strategically placed around the base so the hex key can turn the screws to secure the three base pieces.
File:Securing-Base-Sections.jpg|Use the access hole in the Base parts to secure screws that bind the three base parts together.
File:Megapod-Foam-Squares.jpg|Peel the backing off the foam squares that came with the kit and attach them to the bottom of the base. Stack them on top of each other.
</gallery>
* STEP 1C: Take the Base Bottom part and place it inside the base. There is a nub in one place that will only allow it to be inserted in one orientation. Use six 1/4-20 by 3/4 inch screws with nuts and lock washers in the outer ring of holes in the bottom to secure it to the base. The head of the screw should be on the outside of the robot and nuts should secure the screws on the inside.
* STEP 1D: Take the foam squares that came in your kit and stick them on the bottom of the robot, reasonably centered. These foam pads will reduce the shock and stress on the robot when it goes down to the floor on certain dance moves. Without these pads, the robot leg servos and body structure may undergo too much stress.

====STEP 2: Install the electrical system in the base====
* STEP 2A: Take the potentiometer and remove its dial cap, then unscrew the nut and set these items aside for now (don't lose them). Push the potentiometer shaft from the inside of the chassis into the hole that is surrounded by the markings "STOP", "TST", etc. The wires coming out of the potentiometer should be pointing down. The little metal nub sticking out of the potentiometer should match with a tiny rectangular hole that is near the marking "TST". Put the retaining nut on the potentiometer, hand tighten first and then give it just another half turn or so with pliers if desired. Turn the knob all the way counter-clockwise, then insert the knob so it points to the letter "O" in the word "STOP".
* STEP 2B: Take the large DPST on/off switch (which is attached to the battery holder and power distribution assembly) and thread the switch wires from the inside through the gap at the bottom of the switch hole (see picture). Carefully push the wires one by one through the slot below the switch hole. Once all the wires are through, push the switch into the switch hole. It should be oriented with the "1" to the right. Press carefully into the hole, it should snap firmly in place.
** If the fit is too tight to get the switch in place, lightly sanding or filing the hole to make it a tiny bit larger should work.
<gallery mode=packed heights=200>
File:Switch-Insert-1.jpg|Thread the switch and its wires through the Base, there is an opening under the switch hole.
File:Switch-Insert-2.jpg|Bring the wires up through the small gap below the switch hole. Be careful with the large wires, they require some pressure or some flexing of the plastic to get through.
File:Switch-Insert-3.jpg|All the wires are now coming through the switch hole.
File:Switch-Insert-4.jpg|Press the switch into the hole, it should snap into place. The "1" should be to the right.
</gallery>

====STEP 3: Insert servos in the chassis====
* Next, insert the servo into the chassis as shown in the diagrams. As you insert the servo into the chassis, slowly press it straight into place until it fully seats. Use a servo stopper and one 1/4-20 by 2 inch nylon hex bolts to secure the servos in place. The nylon bolts should retain in the holes even though there are no threads and no nut used. If you find them working themselves loose, you could wrap a bit of electrical tape around the end of the screw to make the fit tighter.
<gallery mode=packed heights=250>
File:Servo-in-Base-2.jpg|Insert each servo with the wire coming out away from the robot as shown here. Press in completely.
File:Servo-in-Base-3.jpg|Insert a servo stopper (shown in red) and secure with nylong bolt. Thread the wire into the body of the robot through the hole as shown.
</gallery>

====STEP 4: Build the Legs====
=====STEP 4A: Assemble Boot and Wheel=====
Because of the large size of the Gigapod, the leg is assembled using several parts (whereas it is a single part with the smaller hexapod designs). The extra part that is attached at the tip of the main leg piece is called the boot. Each boot is tipped by a TPU wheel. This reduces friction when the robot needs to stand, but provides traction when legs move laterally to walk. The TPU wheel is secured by a #6-32 x 1 inch screw, lock washer, and nut as shown in the diagram below. The entire boot/wheel assembly is attached to the main leg using two bushings, one of which has a hex-shaped indentation to retain a #6-32 nut.
<gallery mode=packed heights=350>
File:Gigapod-Leg-Assembly-Wheel-Boot.PNG|Parts for Boot and Wheel. The boot goes over the main leg and is secured with two leg bushings and a #6-32 1.75" screw, nut, and lock washer. The wheel is attached between two wheel bushings and is secured with a #6-32 x 1" screw, lock washer, and nut.
File:Gigapod-Leg-Assembly-Bearing-Peg.PNG|Insert Bearing Peg (red). The servo will lock it in place, there are no screws required.
</gallery>

=====STEP 4B: Insert Servos in Legs=====
The technique is very similar to inserting the servo into the chassis.
*Insert the servo straight into the leg socket so that the wire is coming out of the servo facing away from the plastic leg and the face of the servo with the shaft and servo horn goes into the open faced side of the leg, as shown in the diagram.
*Secure the servo in place with a servo stopper and one 2 inch nylong bolt as you did with the hip servos in the base.
*The servos in the legs are called the "knee" servos. Each leg has a higher number on it, this is the knee number, they run from 6 to 11. Again, write this number on the black connector at the end of the servo wire. PRO TIP: For 6 and 9, underline the number so you don't read them upside down!
*Cut a 12 inch length of braided wire covering. Seal the threads at the end using a lighter for a couple seconds to melt them. Be careful not to set on fire. Thread the knee servo wires through the braided wire covering. This will help protect the servo wires, and also makes the robot look better. You may need to use electrical tape or a zip tie to secure the end of the braided covering to the end of the servo wire where it comes out of the servo.
<gallery mode=packed heights=200>
File:Servo-Insert-Leg-v2.png|Insert Servos in Legs
File:Servo-Leg-Inserted-v2.png|Push until fully seated
File:Servo-Stopper-In-Leg.jpg|Use the servo stopper and two screws to lock the servo in place
</gallery>

*Thread each leg servo wire (with braided covering) into the bottom wire guide slot on the chassis. Each leg servo should be matched with a hip servo plus 6. The legs are marked with the hip number near the top and the knee number below that. For example, the leg marked 6 should be threaded through the wire guide on hip servo 0, leg 7 goes with hip 1, leg 8 goes with hip 2, etc. Add 6 to the hip number to get the leg number.

====STEP 5: Plug in the Servos====
Thread the servo wires into the chassis using the routing holes, as you did with the hip servos. The power distribution harness has marked servo extension sockets for each servo. Each hip servo is marked on the BASE showing its number. the knee servo for each hip is numbered six higher than its corresponding hip. For example, hip servo number 3 will be attached to knee servo number 9, because 3+6=9.

When plugging the servos in, make sure you match the light yellow servo wire to the white servo extension wire, and the dark brown servo wire should match with the black servo extension wire.

====STEP 6: Make Robot Electrical Connections====

If you are self-sourcing, use the diagram below in the electrical section to make the rest of the robot's electrical connections. You'll be using the Robot Arduino Nano (marked "R"), the Servo Driver, Bluetooth Module marked "S", the buzzer, and a bunch of jumper wires. Make sure you use the longer jumper wires for the SDA and SCL connections between the Nano and the Servo Driver.
If you bought a kit from us, all connections are already made, other than plugging the servos into the marked servo extension connectors.

====STEP 7: Assemble the leg hinges====
[[File:Servo-Bracket-Alignment-v1.png|thumb|350px|right|Align the leg hinges as shown here. The bumps (see arrows) should both be near each other when properly aligned. Hold one in each hand with the ends of the U shape between thumb and forefinger.]]
Each leg hinge is composed of two identical U-shaped parts. Take one in each hand and align the two so that the bump (shown in the diagram at the right) are both near each other. Turn one 90 degrees with respect to the other.
*Gently squeeze each piece between thumb and forefinger, which causes the little jaws in the center to open up slightly. Work the two halves together. Keep squeezing harder until the ends slide into place.
*If you used PLA and are finding it hard to bend, briefly soaking the pieces in very hot tap water has been reported to make it easier. Take care not to scald yourself, the water does not have to be boiling, just hot from the tap. You only need to dip the ends that will lock over each other, not the parts you will squeeze. Use caution.
*At this stage, you may notice that the parts are loosely clamped on each other (this depends on plastic used and whether your printer over- or under-extrudes). Don't worry! When you place the leg hinges over a servo, the servo will spread it apart and they will lock together more tightly.
* Use a #6-32 1" screw and matching nut through the center hole of the two joined leg hinges to secure the hinges further. (This is necessary because the gigapod's hinges are under much more stress than in the megapod or hexapod.)
*Insert a 6202ZZ bearing into the socket on one side of the leg hinges. Pliers may be necessary to press them into place. Make sure you clean up any drips inside the recessed area for the skate bearing before attempting to insert the bearings. If you have a lot of trouble getting them in, you could heat up that part of the hinge in hot tap water to soften the plastic, or use a butane lighter (carefully! don't stop moving it) to soften the plastic before inserting the bearing.

====STEP 8: Attach Leg Hinges====
The leg hinges connect the hips to the knees. They only go on one way. If you made sure to align the bumps when assembling the leg hinges, this will result in correct orientation of all legs.
*First place the end that matches the servo horn on about halfway. Make sure the servo horn slides under the little pocket at the end of recessed area that accepts the horn.
*Very slightly bend the U shaped piece while pulling the skate bearing side over the hemispherical bump on the other side of the servo holding area. It's a little easier to do the knees (servos mounted to legs) first, followed by the hips (servos on base).
*NOTE: It will be a tight fit, but it should not be excessively difficult to push the hinge over the bearing.
*When completed, double check to make sure the servo horn went into the covered pocket at the end of its recessed area. This pocket keeps the horn from slipping out of the hinge during stressful operations.

====STEP 9: Enclose the electronics modules in their caddies====

Now things look pretty messy with all those wires hanging loose, let's clean it up by stowing the Arduino Nano, Bluetooth module and Servo Driver in their caddies. The caddies will keep them safe by making sure they can't short out against each other or touch screws, etc.
* '''STEP 9A: Insert Caddy Bars''' Insert the electronics caddy bars as shown in the diagrams below. Notice carefully how they are inserted. Don't insert them upside down, the little hump should be facing inward toward the caddy. You may need to slightly squeeze the forked section at the end to work it into the hole. Once inside, it may be difficult to remove because it will snap into place, so be sure you're putting it in the right way.
<gallery mode=packed heights=300>
File:Insert-Caddy-Bar-1.jpg|Insertion of the caddy bar into the Nano caddy. Notice the orientation, don't put the bar in upside down. The same technique is used for the Servo Driver Caddy.
</gallery>
* '''STEP 9B: Insert the Arduino Nano into its caddy''' Carefully insert the Nano as shown, making sure you don't pull out any of the wires. You may need to wiggle the caddy bar from side to side a bit so that components can slide past it during insertion. Notice that the end of the Nano that has the USB port must go in last.

<gallery mode=packed heights=250>
File:Insert-Nano-In-Caddy-1.jpg|Insert the Nano in the orientation shown.
File:Insert-Nano-In-Caddy-2.jpg|You may need to wiggle it a bit or press on the bar to work it into place.
File:Insert-Nano-In-Caddy-3.jpg|Note how the USB port is accessible through the top after full insertion.
</gallery>

* '''STEP 9C: Insert the Servo Driver into its caddy''' Carefully insert the Servo Driver as shown, making sure you don't pull out any of the wires. You may need to wiggle the caddy bar from side to side a bit so that components can slide past it during insertion. Notice that the end of the Servo controller with wires sticking out of it must go in last.

<gallery mode=packed heights=200>
File:Insert-ServoDriver-In-Caddy-1.jpg|Insert the Servo Driver in the orientation shown.
File:Insert-ServoDriver-In-Caddy-2.jpg|You may need to wiggle it a bit or press on the bar to work it into place.
File:Insert-ServoDriver-In-Caddy-3.jpg|Note that the end with the wires goes in last.
</gallery>

* '''STEP 9D: Insert the HC05 Bluetooth Module''' The diagrams here do not show the wires to make them easier to visualize. The HC05 Bluetooth module with a name beginning with "S" should be used for the robot. For example, the label will read something like "VORP S2944" (the number will differ). The one marked "M" will be used for the gamepad. Slide the HC05 into the side drawer as shown. When inserting, be careful not to pull out the wires, which will be a little tight. Work the wires into the little space provided so they stay clear of the robot's cap when it gets screwed on later.

<gallery mode=packed heights=250>
File:Insert-HC05-in-Caddy-1.jpg|Insert the HC05 into the side drawer of the Nano Caddy as shown.
File:Insert-HC05-in-Caddy-2.jpg|When fully inserted, the indicator light will still be visible through the small oval.
File:Insert-HC05-in-Caddy-3.jpg|The wires should be tucked into the little cavity near the pins of the HC05.
</gallery>

====STEP 10: Power up!====
Make sure the on/off switch is off, and the knob is turned to STOP. Attach the proper batteries (a 9v recharageable NIMH or LI-ON, and an 8.4 volt 4000 or more mAh NIMH with XT60 connector) and power on the robot using the on/off switch. You should hear a beep, a pause, then a second beep. The servos should all twitch into position. If the robot does not move at all, immediately turn the switch off and check your connections again. If some of the servos don't move then gently push them with power off to see if you can free them up. If they still won't move, try pushing them with power applied, but turn off the power within 30 seconds if they're locked up. If you can't get the servo to move it will need to be replaced.

[[File:Servo-Horn-Orientation.png|thumb|right|The servo horn should come straight out from the body at a 90 degree angle as shown here. Do not turn the servo shaft by hand until after it has moved under power!]]

====STEP 11: Insert Servo Horns====
The servo horns are all at random-ish angles right now. In this step we'll make them point in the right direction. The knee servos are not at 90 degrees when the knob is all the way counter clockwise, rather they are at a 30 degree standing angle.

We need to get them to 90 degrees so its easy to align the servo horn, and this is done by going into "Adjust Mode". Turn the knob very slightly clockwise until you hear a beep, then stop. After about one second you will see all the knee servos twitch. This is "adjust servo horn mode". All servos (knees and hips) are now at their halfway point, 90 degrees.

Now you need to take each single arm servo horn and carefully insert it on the shaft so that it is sticking straight out as shown in the figure. You will not always be able to make the horn come totally straight out. This is because there are only 22 little groves (splines) in each shaft, meaning you can in general only come within about 8 degrees of being at a perfect 90 degree angle. This amount of error is acceptable for now, just get it as close as you can. Later we'll use Trim Mode to make fine adjustments.

====STEP 12: Test Knee Positions====
Turn the knob fully counter clockwise (to STOP) and the robot will go into "stand still" mode. Place it on a level surface such as a table top. Do all of the legs touch the ground? If one or more legs don't touch the ground, you need to adjust the servo horn on the knee a little bit so it does touch. Gently pull off the servo bracket. Pull the servo horn off, and put it back on just a little bit moved so the leg would move closer to the ground. Put the servo bracket back on, and see how it looks. Do this until all legs are at least slightly touching the ground. Again, you can't necessarily be perfect due to the 8 degree increments the servo horns can be moved. But you should be able to be close enough that all legs at least slightly touch the ground.

====STEP 13: Insert Servo Screws====
Now that the legs are adjusted, you can insert the M3x12 screws (with M3 lock washers) into the servo horns to lock them in place. Note that you will NOT be using the screws that were in the little bag the servos came in, you'll be using the separate pack of screws, which are longer than the ones in the servo bag. Do not overtighten these screws, as you could possibly crack the servo brackets. Just turn the screws until you start to feel resistance, then turn a quarter turn more and stop.

====STEP 14: Test the Servos====
*'''STEP 14A: Using TST Mode'''
**To test whether every servo is working, put the robot on something that will lift its legs off the table top, but won't interfere with the legs (a small box or stack of books will work).
**Start with the knob on STOP, then slowly turn it clockwise. You'll hear one beep (Adjust mode), then a second beep (Test mode). Stop turning and the robot will go into "individual servo test mode". In this mode, every hip servo will move, one by one. When all the hips have moved, every leg will move, one by one. You should see every servo move, in order. If some don't move, check your connections. A common error is to plug a servo connector into the servo controller backwards (i.e. the brown wire is matched with the yellow pin instead of the black pin). If the servos do not move in a sensible order, that probably means you plugged a couple of servos into the wrong sockets in the electrical harness.

*'''STEP 14B: Test Using Demo Mode'''
**Ok, everything looks good, so time for a full test. Turn the knob to STOP, then put the robot on the floor, somewhere that has at least a few feet of room in each direction. (Caution: it's tempting to do this on a table top, but unless you have a huge table this is not advisable, Max will run pretty fast at some points during the demo.)
**Turn the knob to DEMO, and about one second later the robot will go through a series of movements to demonstrate some of the things it can do. The full demo only takes about 30 seconds, then repeats. Here, you are looking for the robot to, for example, be able to get back up off the floor after doing some of its dance moves.
**If the robot struggles to get off the floor, you may have a battery that is not fully charged, or there may be drips or other obstructions stopping some legs from moving fully. See the [[Vorpal Combat_Hexapod Troubleshooting Guide|Trouble Shooting Guide]] for more information about different kinds of issues that can occur. That guide was written for the small robot, but most of the things that can go wrong with the Gigapod are similar to the things that can go wrong with Vorpal The Hexapod.

====STEP 15: Store electronics and wires in the Base====
Carefully stow the caddies into the base, using any available convenient space. NOTE: Unlike the small hexapod and megapod, the Gigapod saves weight by not having any service access covers. This makes it look messier when the top is off, but the savings in weight was necessary to avoid servo stress.
<gallery mode=packed heights=250>
File:All-Electronics-Inserted-In-Base.jpg|Carefully stow the caddies into the base, being careful not to pull out any wires.
</gallery>

====STEP 16: Assemble the Cap====
*'''STEP 16A: Assemble the Four Cap Parts'''
**First assemble the three large pieces after removing the support coming out of the center. Be aware that there is a correct ordering to them, the two flaps that stick out near the bottom need to be opposite each other so the cap can slot into the Base and lock in place. Use #6-32 x 1 inch screws plus nylox locking nuts to secure the three parts together as shown. There are access holes around the rim that allow the hex key to reach the screws. Use nuts and locking washers to secure the screws.
**Secure the top of the cap onto the bottom three pieces using three 1 inch #6 socket screws and their associated nylox locking nuts.
<gallery mode=packed heights=250>
File:Cap-Exploded.JPG|Arrangement of the four Cap parts. Note that this diagram shows the support in place, this should actually be removed prior to assembly.
File:CAP-Assembly-order.JPG|Make sure the two flaps at the rim are opposite each other when ordering the three main parts.
</gallery>
* '''STEP 16B: Put Hook-and-loop on Cap''' Peel and stick on the "hook" side of a 1" piece of hook-and-loop on each flat circular decoration holder on the cap.
* '''STEP 16C: Decorate''' If desired, use a permanent marker to color the Vorpal "V" on top of the Cap. Oil markers work well. On light colors of plastic a black permanent marker will also work.
* '''STEP 16D: Put Cap on the Hexapod'''
**Screw the cap on the robot by lining up the tabs with the matching slots in the rim of the base. Turn the cap clockwise to lock it in place. IMPORTANT: Do not press down on the robot to insert the cap when the robot is under power standing on its legs! You can damage the leg motors by doing this. It is best to turn the robot off, and either support the bottom of the Base with one hand and press the Cap on with the other, or set the Base down on the table top or floor with legs out to the sides so they don't take pressure.
**If the cap is too loose and swivels while the robot moves, this can be fixed by putting a bit of tape on the cap's flaps to make them a little thicker. The tightness of the cap depends a lot on printer settings, over- or under-extrusion, etc.

====STEP 17: Warning Label====
There are self-stick choking hazard warning labels and also several pinch point warning labels in the hexapod parts bag. Peel the backing off one choking hazard lable and place it on the bottom of the robot, near the center. Retain the second label for the gamepad. The pinch point warnings should be placed around the body of the robot, above the legs, in visible positions. Depending on what kind of plastic you're using, they might or might not stick well. If they don't stick, use glue (such as cyanoacrilate "super glue" or even hot glue) to secure them. The warning labels are not optional! They are necessary for safety. The motors are powerful and can snap your fingers like a twig, or cause severe pinch injuries, sprains, or bruises.

==== Step 18: Trimming the Servos ====
When you assembled the servo horns onto the servos, you probably were not able to get them all to come out exactly at a 90 degree angle. That's not your fault: the servo horns only have 22 possible positions in which they can be installed, so at best you can come within plus or minus 8 degrees of perfection.

Now that you have the gamepad working, you can make fine adjustments to the servo positions using "Trim Mode". In this special gamepad mode, you can adjust all the servos to within a fraction of a degree. These adjustments are saved in the robot's EEPROM, which is memory on the Nano that retains data even when powered off. So, you only need to trim once.

Complete instructions on how to use trim mode are in the wiki page: [[Vorpal The Hexapod Trim Mode Guide]]. That guide was written for the smaller robot, but the instructions are identical for the Gigapod.

NOTE: although this step is optional, it is strongly recommended because your robot will walk straighter and all the servos will share equally in lifting the robot's weight, which will make them last longer.

====Step 19: Assembling Eye Decorations====
Peel and stick a piece of "loop" from the supplied hook and loop fasteners on the back of the two eye pieces. This allows you to stick the eyes on the Cap's matching "hook" areas.

NOTE: There are extra hook and loop circles included in your kit. You can create your own attachments, nameplates, etc. using these.

==Electrical Connections: Robot==
Please note that our Gigapod kit comes prewired using our QuickBuild system. The notes in this section are for makers who self-source.

===NOTES ON JUMPER WIRES===

====Wire Lengths====
There are two different lengths of female-female Dupont jumper wires used to make most connections. The longer ones (20cm) are only used for the Hexapod's accessory port connections. The shorter ones are used for all the connections on the Gamepad and all the connections on the Hexapod between the Arduino Nano, Servo controller and Bluetooth module.

====Wire Color Conventions====

Please follow these conventions when selecting wire colors:
* For +5V, Vin, and similar positive voltage connections, use either RED or ORANGE.
* For GND and other negative electrical connections, use BLACK or BROWN.
* For the connectors that sit at the mouth of the accessory port (used for optional sensors) colors are suggested below in the instructions. By following these suggestions you will make your life easier when connecting sensors!
* For all other connections, you can use any color you want, it's arbitrary.

====If Jumper Wires Are Too Loose====
Sometimes you will find a wire whose connector does not grip the pin well enough. It might fall off very easily or just by gravity alone. If that happens, you have a few options:
* There are extra wires in your kit. If you find a wire that's too loose, just use a different wire.
* Using the hex key, you can put the jumper housing on a flat surface then press on the metal showing through the plastic connector, which will tighten up the jumper wire's grip. Don't go too overboard on pressing though or you might make it too hard to insert.
* Alternatively, you could use electrical tape after inserting all the wires on a module (such as the Nano) to effectively attach together all the little plastic female connector housings. In that way, the connectors that do grip will help hold in the ones that are too loose. Some people also like using hot glue for this purpose. (Personally, I don't like using hot glue, as it makes it harder to change connections if you hooked something up incorrectly.)

===NANO PIN CONNECTIONS===
[[File:Megapod-Nano-Connections-v1.JPG|thumb|600px|right|Diagram of Nano connections for the Hexapod. Jumpers marked AP are routed to the Accessory Port for use with add-ons like sensors. Click for larger image.]]
* ''Digital IO Pins:''
** D0, D1 are reserved because they are used for uploading programs to the robot, so nothing will be connected there.
** D2, D3 No connection.
** D4 Buzzer Signal (white wire)
** D5 through D13 No connection. These pins are reserved for future expansion.

* ''Analog Pins:''
** A0 Potentiometer signal (white wire)
** A1 Potentiometer Power (red wire)
** A2 Potentiometer Ground (black wire)
** A3 No connection.
** A4 Servo Controller SDA
** A5 Servo Controller SCL
** A6, A7 No connection.

* ''Power Pins:''
** +5V pin on Nano connects to any of the +5V RED wires coming from the BEC on the power distribution harness.
** GND pin on Nano connects to any of the GND BLACK wires coming from the BEC on the power distribution harness.

===Servo Driver Power Pins===
* Port 0 RED pin on the Servo Driver connects to any of the +5V RED wires coming from the BEC on the power distribution harness.
* Port 0 BLACK GND pin on the Servo Driver connects to any of the GND BLACK wires coming from the BEC on the power distribution harness.

=== Bluetooth Module Power ===
* +5V on HC05 connects to any RED Dupont connector coming off the BEC.
* GND on HC05 connects to any BLACK Dupont connector coming off the BEC.

=== Buzzer Power ===
* Plug the buzzer into the unused port 15 on the servo driver, making sure the red and black wires on the buzzer power match the red and black rows of pins on the servo driver.

=== Servo Driver ===
[[File:Megapod-ServoDriverConnections.jpg|thumb|600px|right|Diagram of Servo Controller pins you will use in this project. Each servo motor has a 3 wire connector that should be plugged into the corresponding servo number extension connector in the power distribution harness. The white wires coming out of the harness in groups of four should be connected to the yellow line or ports, matching the number ranges to port numbers. Note that the black and red rows of pins are not used, power is provided to the servos through the power distribution harness. Click for larger image.]]
* Connect the 12 servos to power distribution harness connectors marked with port numbers corresponding to the servo marking (0 to 11). Make sure the signal wire (yellow) is oriented correctly and matches the yellow plastic header pin.
* Connect the groups of four white wires which are marked with servo port numbers to the Servo Driver yellow pins, matching the Servo Driver pin number to the port numbers written on the 4-pin Dupont connectors coming out of the power distribution harness.
* Connect one of the +5V RED regulated BEC outputs to the RED port 0 pin of the Servo Driver. Connect one of the GND black pins coming out of the BEC to the BLACK port 0 GND pin on the Servo Driver.
* On one short side of the Servo Controller you will find a VCC and V+ pin right next to each other. Use a shunt (small black connector that goes over two pins) to connect those together if one is not already installed. Without this shunt the Servo Driver will not work.
* SDA and SCL go to A4 and A5 on the Nano, respectively.



== Building the Gamepad ==
The gamepad for Gidget the Gigapod is identical to the Gamepad for Vorpal The Hexapod (and also Max the Megapod).

Please see instructions on [[Vorpal_The_Hexapod_Building_Instructions#Building_the_Gamepadd|the Vorpal Hexapod Gamepad Assembly instructions]].

{{Gigapod Quick Links}}

Gidget The Gigapod Assembly Instructions

2021-03-21T17:45:39Z

Vorpalwiki: /* STEP 4A: Assemble Boot and Wheel */

==LIMITED AVAILABILITY==

Our kits for this project are special order at this time. Allow two weeks for us to ship. Because the parts are relatively heavy, shipping to areas outside the USA is expensive. For makers outside the USA, you may want to try to acquire the parts locally. But beware of subsitutions! Walking robots have very precise requirements and any substitutions of parts may cause the project not to function as expected.

Warning: The 3D printed parts for this project consume a lot of plastic and the print (on our own printers) is over 200 hours for all the parts. (It's not 200 hours straight, it's multiple print jobs each running 6 to 16 hours.) You shouldn't attempt this unless you're prepared for long print times and your printer is well tuned to make failures rare.

NEW: our Megapod and Gigapod kits are now standard with the "Quickbuild" electrical system. This cuts over an hour off the build time.

==Gidget The Gigapod Construction==
[[File:Giga-Mega-Hexa-Stacked.jpg|right|thumb|Gigapod, Megapod, Hexapod relative sizes]]
Gidget The Gigapod is a very large, 3d printed, hexapod robot. This page gives complete instructions for building this project. If you are new to 3d printing, you probably don't want to start with this one, though. Please consider our smaller [[Vorpal The Hexapod]] project instead.
==BILL OF MATERIALS (BOM) FOR GIDGET THE GIGAPOD==
===Notes on Sourcing Parts Yourself===
* These instructions assume you have purchased a kit from us (kits are currently a special order item). If you are sourcing your own parts, please be aware of the following additional information:
**If you are sourcing your own parts, you need to build the power distribution connector assembly. This is identical to the power distribution system for [[Max The Megapod]]. For diagrams see [[Max The Megapod Battery/Switch Construction]] except that it uses an XT60 connector instead of Tamaya for the large battery, and it uses a 30 amp fuse instead of a 15 amp fuse. This will take about 2 hours of soldering and labelling work.
**Also see important information on that page if you are sourcing your own BEC.
**If you are sourcing your own Bluetooth modules, please be aware that you will need to configure them to auto-pair and to have a UART speed of 38400 BAUD. Every module brand's firmware is a bit different so it's not possible for us to give you universal instructions on how to program them. We assume that if you source your own parts you are familiar with how to configure Bluetooth modules using AT-commands. (You can find tutorials online or videos on youtube, but like we said, different modules may not exactly match instructions you will find so be prepared to fiddle around a bit). Please do not ask our customer support for help on this topic. We sell pre-configured modules that auto-pair on boot for a very reasonable price.
**If you are sourcing your own Arduino Nano modules, you will need to flash the robot and gamepad code on them. You can find the latest stable release of code at the [https://tinyurl.com/VORPALFILES Vorpal Hexapod Public Dropbox folder]. The source code tree is posted in our github repository, but the top of that tree may not be stable. Note: there is currently no difference in software between the large and small versions of the hexapod other than a single #define called HEXSIZE. For the gigapod, this should be set to 2.
* Please be very careful about substitutions. You might think you can substitute cheaper parts for the ones specified here. Don't bet on it. Walking robots are extremely difficult to design, and we've chosen each part for a good reason. For example, if you try to substitute cheaper servos you are very likely to find that they don't provide enough torque for the robot to stand up, or they burn out within minutes due to being over-stressed. If you substitute a different battery voltage, you'll either fry the servos or they won't have enough torque. It took 1,000 hours of work to design the smaller hexapod on which this one is based, then another 500 hours of redesign, testing, and tuning to get the big version working well. If you want to try substitutions, okay, but please don't expect it to work without many hours of adjustments and testing.
* Full kits of parts as well as individual parts will be available on [http://store.vorpalrobotics.com The Vorpal Robotics Store]. If you are new to Arduino and robotics we strongly recommend you purchase a kit instead of trying to self-source parts (and truthfully, if you're not experienced with this kind of project you really should build the smaller [[Vorpal The Hexapod]] kit first. NOTE: kits will not be available until approximately Fall 2020 due to delays in getting parts from China due to the virus pandemic.
* Our kits cut 4 to 5 hours off the build time, bringing it to typically 2 to 3 or so hours. The kits have all soldering done, programs are already loaded on the Nanos, Bluetooth modules are properly configured, and you know you have all the right parts to work together. About half the people who self-source parts end up buying parts that are incorrect or are so cheap that they will quickly fail (and they end up spending more money and far more time than if they had simply bought a kit to start with!)

=== ROBOT BOM ===
[[File:Choking-Hazard-Image.jpg|right|350px]]
[[File:PinchPoint-Warning.JPG|right|350px]]

* ''Electronics:''
** Passive Piezo Buzzer module and 3 wire cable (see image) [[File:Passive-Piezo-Buzzer-Module.jpg|right|thumb|Passive Piezo Buzzer Module]]
** Arduino Nano, 5V, 16 mHz, ATMEGA328 or similar (marked RM in our kit to indicate it is pre-loaded with Gigapod robot software)
** Rotary potentiometer, 10K Ohms, 6mm shaft diameter, with 3 wires pre-soldered. Also, matching dial cap and nut. If you are self-sourcing see our instructions: [[Max The Megapod Battery/Switch Construction]]
** 1 x HC05 BlueTooth Module with F-F jumper wires for making connections (our kit electronics are pre-wired for you)
** 1 x Servo Controller module (Adafruit 16-channel 12-bit I2C PWM/Servo driver or Adafruit clone) with F-F jumper wires for making connections, plus 1 two-pin shunt tying V+ to VCC
** 12 x DS5160 SSG 180 degree, 60 kg-cm torque servo motors with metal servo horns. Be sure you order the 180 degree version, these servos also come in a 270 degree version.
** 1 x Power distribution wiring harness with DPST on/off switch, Fuse, XT60 battery connector, 3A 5V BEC, and servo extension connectors. If you are self-sourcing see our wiring instructions: [[Max The Megapod Battery/Switch Construction|Circuit Diagrams]]. (The battery/switch circuit for the Gigapod is identical to that of the Megapod except it uses an XT60 connector for the large battery and it uses a 30 amp fuse instead of a 15 amp fuse.)
* ''3D Printed Parts:''
All STL files are available from our [[http://tinyurl.com/VORPALFILES Vorpal Public Files Dropbox]] under the STL sub-folder.
** 6 Robot Base Parts and bottom plate to hold the parts together.
** 4 Cap parts which screw together to form the cap of the robot.
** 6 x Legs
** 6 x Boots that will be assembled with wheels.
** 6 x Boot Bushings, cap side, to hold boots onto main legs (the screw goes in this side)
** 6 x Boot Bushings, nut side, to hold boots onto main legs (this side has a hex cutout to hold a hex nut).
** 6 x TPU wheels that are installed in the Boot
** 12 x Wheel bushings that sandwich the wheel, acting as spacers
** 6 x TPU Shoes to provide better traction. These should be printed in TPU or other flexible plastics so they absorb some impact during walking. They should only be used on surfaces with low friction. They should be removed if walking on asphalt or other rough surfaces.
** 12 x Servo Stops. These parts hold the servos in their compartments both in the base and the legs.
** 12 x Servo Bearing Pegs. These insert into the servo compartments and provide a secure place for the bearings to sit.
** 12 x Leg Hinge halves with Leg Hinge Rings. The rings stop layer separation issues under stress.
** 1 x Electronics Caddy to hold Arduino Nano
** 1 x Electronics Caddy to hold the Servo Driver
** 2 x Eye/glasses Decoration
** 8 x 1 inch diameter hook-and-loop self stick circles to attach of eyes and other decorations
* ''Screws and Fasteners''
** 12 x Nylon bolts 1/4-20 x 2" long. These can be partially threaded. Note that it is important for these to be made of nylon for weight savings. These are used to secure servos in place using the servo stopper part.
** 12 x M3x20mm button head screws (with matching flat washers and external tooth washers) to secure servo arms to servo through the screw hole in the hinge.
** 6 x #6-32 x 1.75" long cap screws plus nuts to attach boots onto the end of the leg
** 6 x #6-32 x 1" long cap screws plus nuts to provide axles for the boot wheels.
** 6 x 1/4-20 x 1.25" long cap screw plus nylox locking nuts for holding the BASE parts together
** 6 x 1/4-20 x 3/4" long cap screw plus nylox locking nuts for holding the BOTTOM onto the BASE assembly
** 6 x #6-32 cap screws plus nylox locking nuts for holding the CAP and CAP TOPPER parts together
** 6 x #6-32 cap screws plus nylox locking nuts for holding the LEG HINGES together. Note that the smaller versions of the robot depend on a snap-together system to hold the hinges together, but the larger Gigapod requires a screw through the center hole to ensure the hinges remain together.
** If you are self-sourcing and building your own electrical system, you will also need 10 x #6-32 x 1/2" screws to hold the power distribution plastic covers together. If you buy our kit, these are already installed on the wiring harness.
* ''Miscellaneous Mechanical Parts:''
** 12 x 6202ZZ Double Metal Seal Bearings 15x35x11mm for leg hinges
** 12 x 608zz Skate Bearings with nylon coated wheel, dimensions: 27.5mm diameter wheel, 8mm inner diameter on bearing, 8mm wide.
* ''Tools Required (Not included in kit)''
** Hex drivers for the various sized bolts and screws.
** Needle nose pliers are useful for holding the nuts while assembling BASE and CAP parts.
** 3 x Pinch Point Stickers. Place these around the robot Base to warn onlookers not to touch the robot. Some kinds of plastic may not stick well to the adhesive, you may need to secure with hot glue or superglue or similar.
* ''Batteries and Chargers''
** The Gigapod uses a 4200 mAH (a little more is okay but don't go too high due to weight considerations) 7-cell NIMH battery (8.4 Volts) with male XT60 connector and compatible charger, such as: [https://www.batteryspace.com/nimhbatterypack84v4200mahhumpbatterypacksforrctraxxasandlosietc.aspx BatterySpace 42000 mAH 8.4 V NIMH] (We use that one for demos with the 14 gauge wire option, and we solder on an XT60 male connector in-house. You get about 30 minutes of run time with this battery.)
**The Gigapod also requires one 9v battery, we recommend NIMH or LI-ON rechargeable with compatible charger.
** The gamepad takes any kind of standard 9v rectangular batter, either rechargeable or disposable work fine. These are commonly available from many sources. We recommend rechargeable NIMH or LI-ON 9v batteries with compatible charger.
** Note that we do not provide batteries or chargers with our kits due to licenses required to ship batteries.
NOTE ON BATTERY SAFETY: Never leave batteries in the Gigapod or gamepad after use. If either one gets turned on accidentally, overdraining the battery may damage or destroy it. As soon as the Gigapod has trouble moving or sags under its own weight, immediately stop and replace with fresh batteries.

=== GAMEPAD BOM AND ASSEMBLY ===
The gamepad for Gidget the Gigapod is identical to the gamepad for Vorpal The Hexapod. See instructions for the gamepad here: [[Vorpal_The_Hexapod_Building_Instructions#Building_the_Gamepadd|Vorpal The Hexapod Gamepad Assembly instructions]]

==Printing the Plastic Parts==

This section assumes you have basic familiarity with 3D printing and 3D printing terminology. If not, you might want to reference online materials such as youtube videos or information from your 3D printer manufacturer before attempting this project.

Please note: it takes over 200 hours to print this project. This is not a project for the faint of heart, or for people who are not experienced in 3d printing and have not tuned and maintained their printers. If you are a beginner at 3d printing, we strongly recommend that you start with our smaller [[Vorpal the Hexapod]] project. It's a 16 hour print, requires a lot less bridging, and less than a tenth as much practice.

===OBTAINING THE STL FILES===
We have posted the STL files to [http://www.thingiverse.com Thingiverse]. Search for "Gidget the Gigapod" and they should pop right up.

Please help us by rating the Gidget the Gigapod project (or clicking on the LIKE button, COLLECT button, etc.)!

Please post your builds to places like Thingiverse, pictures to FaceBook, Instagram, etc., and videos of your robot to YouTube! This will help us grow and continue having the resources creating cool new projects for our community.

===MINIMUM PRINTER REQUIREMENTS===
*The bed size should be at least 275mm cube (about 11 inches cube). The largest parts are the six Base and the 3 Cap parts in the x and y directions, and in the Z direction the Leg is largest, so these are the limiting factor on bed size.
* For almost all parts, we recommend PLA PRO plastic (or similiar enhanced PLA plastics that may go under other names like PLA+). These are large parts and so PLA is preferred due it being resistant to warping.
* The boots part is best made of TPU plastic, or similar flexible plastics, to reduce the impact of walking on floors.
===AMOUNT OF PLASTIC FILAMENT===
* About 6 to 7 kg of PLA plastic are needed to print the entire robot and gamepad, assuming no print failures.
* About 200 grams of TPU (or similar flexible plastic) are needed to print the wheels. It is possible to print the wheels out of harder plastics but in that case they might scratch wooden floors, so we suggest TPU or some other flexible, soft plastic.
* The amount of plastic used does depend on plastic type and exact print settings though, so your mileage may vary.

===RECOMMENDED PLASTICS===
*ABS, PETG, and PLA all work well. However, because there are some very large parts, ABS may cause you some warping issues if you don't have a heated bed, enclosure, and a printer tuned well for large parts. PLA is generally easier and has fewer issues with corners peeling off the print bed.
*We use eSun PLA PRO for this project and for us it works very well. PLA PRO is a little more flexible and stronger than typical PLA. We have no problems with warping even on the largest parts.
*For the boots, we used Sainsmart TPU and it works very well. Other flexible plastics would probably also be fine.
*This project requires less flexibility than the smaller Vorpal The Hexapod project, so ABS is not at all required for this project.
===PRINTING TIPS===
This project has been finely tuned to make it easy to 3D print. No additional supports are required for any of the parts (there is a support built into the models for the CAP parts and there are tiny supports built into the hinge parts). In some cases you may want to use brims or rafts to help parts adhere to the print surface. These are large, long prints so using a brim for a little added safety is probably prudent.

There is some significant bridging with some spans up to 45mm (1.8"). It is important to tune your printer and make sure it can handle the bridging before attempting the large parts. A little sagging is ok and a drip or two can be easily removed, but you need decent ability to bridge. There are bridge testing and calibration models posted on sites like Thingiverse that may help you tune your printer before trying the big parts. There are numerous "3d printing tips" type postings on the internet that make suggestions for how to tune for features like bridging.

====PRINT SETTINGS====
We print using the following settings on a Lulzbot TAZ 6 with 0.5mm nozzle:
* 0.4 layer thickness (or whatever layer thickness is the largest that will work on your printer)
* 2mm walls (i.e. four perimeters for a 0.5mm nozzle)
* 1.6 mm top and bottom (i.e. four layers at 0.4mm layer height)
* 25% infill
* You can print with thinner layers if your printer does not support 0.4mm layers or if you want a more refined look, it will just take longer. If you have a large nozzle (0.8mm or more) you should be able to go with bigger layers and save a lot of print time. Please report your findings to us at support@vorpalrobotics.com so we can advise future Makers of this project.

====POST PRINT====
Other than removing brims/rafts, cap and hinge built in supports, and the occasional drip, there is not any special post-processing required after printing. Some of the big bridges might seem a little saggy but generally speaking there's enough tolerance that this won't cause an issue. The biggest bridges are mostly hidden inside the robot so they won't affect cosmetics.

====PRO TIPS====
*Do routine maintenance on your printer before printing the big parts: lubricate rods and lead screws, check bed leveling, replace nozzle if worn, do a calibration print, clean your print surface, etc. A few minutes of preparation will help you nail these prints and make a project you can be very proud of!
*Print the large parts (Base, Cap) at the ''start'' of new spools. The last thing you want is to run out of filament 95% of the way through a big part.
*Print the smallest parts (servo stops, hinge rings, Leg pegs, gamepad drawer) near the end of a spool.
*If you have a large format printer, it is tempting to kick off several large parts at once and let it run overnight. We would recommend against that--the chances of killing an entire spool of filament due to an overnight power hit or other failure is just not worth it. Take your time, do the big parts one by one. One or two during the day, one overnight. It will all get done soon enough. An extra few days won't matter in the long run.

== Building the Robot ==

You will need the following tools:
*Included in the kit:
** 2mm hex key. A 5/64 inch hex key will also work. This is in the Gigapod Parts bag.
** 7/64 hex key at least 6" long (150mm). It needs to be long enough to reach screws through access holes in the Base and Cap. This is in the Gigapod Parts Bag.
*Not included in the kit:
** Optional: A marker that can write on dark plastic and still be seen, such as Sharpie Metallic or Sharpie Oil markers (white and yellow work great on dark colored plastic, black or blue work well on light colored plastic). This can be used to make raised lettering on the robot and gamepad more visible.
** Optional: Needle nose pliers can be helpful for holding nuts in place while tightening screws.
** Optional: Slip-joint pliers can be helpful for forcing the skate bearings into their press-fit locations on the Leg Hinges

===IMPORTANT WARNING: POWERFUL SERVOS MAY INJURE YOU===
The motors on Gidget the Gigapod are very powerful compared to the smaller Vorpal the Hexapod (or even Max the Megapod) projects. It is possible for the leg motions to pinch fingers or even possibly break fingers or cause other injuries, possibly severe. When powering on the Gigapod you must keep fingers clear of places where the legs/hips can come together. You should mount the included "Pinch Point" stickers around the Base of the robot to warn others. During public demonstrations, keep adults and especially children away from the robot when it's operating. Little kids will definitely try to touch the robot and could be injured, keep them at a safe distance. In case of electrical issues the legs may move unexpectedly. Turning the power off will release the motors. Never carry the Gigapod when it's powered on. For safety, I disconnect the battery when transporting, just to prevent the possibility that the power switch will get hit accidentally.

If the robot is moving in an out of control manner, use a pencil, book, or rod to hit the power switch from a safe distance. The switch is large and easy to turn off.

You must at all times take standard precautions that are typical with large robotic projects.

If you are building your own electrical system please do not skimp by skipping adding the fuse to the circuit. This project may draw significant amperage and fuse protection is required.

===Step by Step Instructions===
PLEASE NOTE: These instructions are currently in draft state, and I've used diagrams from Max the Megapod here temporarily. The construction is very similar, although you will note some discrepancies such as the BASE for the Megapod comes in 3 parts while in the Gigapod it comes in 6 parts. Still, the construction is analogous. I'll be replacing diagrams for the parts that are not the same first.

====STEP 1: Build the BASE====
* STEP 1A: Take the six outer parts of the base (STL files: Base-1, Base-2, ... Base-6) and arrange them to form the "bowl" of the base. Make sure the servo numbers are in the right order as you move clockwise around the six parts! It's possible to assemble them in the wrong order if you don't check.
* STEP 1B: There are matching screw holes positioned on little rectangular outcroppings on the inside of the top ring, these require screws to bind the three parts together. Use six 1/4-20 by 1.25 inch socket head screws, toothed lock washers, and nuts to secure them. There is an access hole in the rim of the robot to allow the hex key to turn the screw. You may need to hold the nut in place using needle-nose pliers. Repeat for all six sections.
<gallery mode=packed heights=250>
File:Base-Exploded-View.JPG|Line up the six main pieces of the base, ensuring the servo numbers are in order.
File:Access-Hole-In-Base.jpg|Small access holes are strategically placed around the base so the hex key can turn the screws to secure the three base pieces.
File:Securing-Base-Sections.jpg|Use the access hole in the Base parts to secure screws that bind the three base parts together.
File:Megapod-Foam-Squares.jpg|Peel the backing off the foam squares that came with the kit and attach them to the bottom of the base. Stack them on top of each other.
</gallery>
* STEP 1C: Take the Base Bottom part and place it inside the base. There is a nub in one place that will only allow it to be inserted in one orientation. Use six 1/4-20 by 3/4 inch screws with nuts and lock washers in the outer ring of holes in the bottom to secure it to the base. The head of the screw should be on the outside of the robot and nuts should secure the screws on the inside.
* STEP 1D: Take the foam squares that came in your kit and stick them on the bottom of the robot, reasonably centered. These foam pads will reduce the shock and stress on the robot when it goes down to the floor on certain dance moves. Without these pads, the robot leg servos and body structure may undergo too much stress.

====STEP 2: Install the electrical system in the base====
* STEP 2A: Take the potentiometer and remove its dial cap, then unscrew the nut and set these items aside for now (don't lose them). Push the potentiometer shaft from the inside of the chassis into the hole that is surrounded by the markings "STOP", "TST", etc. The wires coming out of the potentiometer should be pointing down. The little metal nub sticking out of the potentiometer should match with a tiny rectangular hole that is near the marking "TST". Put the retaining nut on the potentiometer, hand tighten first and then give it just another half turn or so with pliers if desired. Turn the knob all the way counter-clockwise, then insert the knob so it points to the letter "O" in the word "STOP".
* STEP 2B: Take the large DPST on/off switch (which is attached to the battery holder and power distribution assembly) and thread the switch wires from the inside through the gap at the bottom of the switch hole (see picture). Carefully push the wires one by one through the slot below the switch hole. Once all the wires are through, push the switch into the switch hole. It should be oriented with the "1" to the right. Press carefully into the hole, it should snap firmly in place.
** If the fit is too tight to get the switch in place, lightly sanding or filing the hole to make it a tiny bit larger should work.
<gallery mode=packed heights=200>
File:Switch-Insert-1.jpg|Thread the switch and its wires through the Base, there is an opening under the switch hole.
File:Switch-Insert-2.jpg|Bring the wires up through the small gap below the switch hole. Be careful with the large wires, they require some pressure or some flexing of the plastic to get through.
File:Switch-Insert-3.jpg|All the wires are now coming through the switch hole.
File:Switch-Insert-4.jpg|Press the switch into the hole, it should snap into place. The "1" should be to the right.
</gallery>

====STEP 3: Insert servos in the chassis====
* Next, insert the servo into the chassis as shown in the diagrams. As you insert the servo into the chassis, slowly press it straight into place until it fully seats. Use a servo stopper and one 1/4-20 by 2 inch nylon hex bolts to secure the servos in place. The nylon bolts should retain in the holes even though there are no threads and no nut used. If you find them working themselves loose, you could wrap a bit of electrical tape around the end of the screw to make the fit tighter.
<gallery mode=packed heights=250>
File:Servo-in-Base-2.jpg|Insert each servo with the wire coming out away from the robot as shown here. Press in completely.
File:Servo-in-Base-3.jpg|Insert a servo stopper (shown in red) and secure with nylong bolt. Thread the wire into the body of the robot through the hole as shown.
</gallery>

====STEP 4: Build the Legs====
=====STEP 4A: Assemble Boot and Wheel=====
Because of the large size of the Gigapod, the leg is assembled using several parts (whereas it is a single part with the smaller hexapod designs). The extra part that is attached at the tip of the main leg piece is called the boot. Each boot is tipped by a TPU wheel. This reduces friction when the robot needs to stand, but provides traction when legs move laterally to walk. The TPU wheel is secured by a #6-32 x 1 inch screw, lock washer, and nut as shown in the diagram below. The entire boot/wheel assembly is attached to the main leg using two bushings, one of which has a hex-shaped indentation to retain a #6-32 nut.
<gallery mode=packed heights=350>
File:Gigapod-Leg-Assembly-Wheel-Boot.PNG|Parts for Boot and Wheel. The boot goes over the main leg and is secured with two leg bushings and a #6-32 1.75" screw, nut, and lock washer. The wheel is attached between two wheel bushings and is secured with a #6-32 x 1" screw, lock washer, and nut.
File:Gigapod-Leg-Assembly-Bearing-Peg.PNG|Insert Bearing Peg (red). The servo will lock it in place, there are no screws required.
</gallery>

=====STEP 4B: Insert Servos in Legs=====
The technique is very similar to inserting the servo into the chassis.
*Insert the servo straight into the leg socket so that the wire is coming out of the servo facing away from the plastic leg and the face of the servo with the shaft and servo horn goes into the open faced side of the leg, as shown in the diagram.
*Secure the servo in place with a servo stopper and one 2 inch nylong bolt as you did with the hip servos in the base.
*The servos in the legs are called the "knee" servos. Each leg has a higher number on it, this is the knee number, they run from 6 to 11. Again, write this number on the black connector at the end of the servo wire. PRO TIP: For 6 and 9, underline the number so you don't read them upside down!
*Cut a 12 inch length of braided wire covering. Seal the threads at the end using a lighter for a couple seconds to melt them. Be careful not to set on fire. Thread the knee servo wires through the braided wire covering. This will help protect the servo wires, and also makes the robot look better. You may need to use electrical tape or a zip tie to secure the end of the braided covering to the end of the servo wire where it comes out of the servo.
<gallery mode=packed heights=200>
File:Servo-Insert-Leg-v2.png|Insert Servos in Legs
File:Servo-Leg-Inserted-v2.png|Push until fully seated
File:Servo-Stopper-In-Leg.jpg|Use the servo stopper and two screws to lock the servo in place
</gallery>

*Thread each leg servo wire (with braided covering) into the bottom wire guide slot on the chassis. Each leg servo should be matched with a hip servo plus 6. The legs are marked with the hip number near the top and the knee number below that. For example, the leg marked 6 should be threaded through the wire guide on hip servo 0, leg 7 goes with hip 1, leg 8 goes with hip 2, etc. Add 6 to the hip number to get the leg number.

====STEP 5: Plug in the Servos====
Thread the servo wires into the chassis using the routing holes, as you did with the hip servos. The power distribution harness has marked servo extension sockets for each servo. Each hip servo is marked on the BASE showing its number. the knee servo for each hip is numbered six higher than its corresponding hip. For example, hip servo number 3 will be attached to knee servo number 9, because 3+6=9.

When plugging the servos in, make sure you match the light yellow servo wire to the white servo extension wire, and the dark brown servo wire should match with the black servo extension wire.

====STEP 6: Make Robot Electrical Connections====

If you are self-sourcing, use the diagram below in the electrical section to make the rest of the robot's electrical connections. You'll be using the Robot Arduino Nano (marked "R"), the Servo Driver, Bluetooth Module marked "S", the buzzer, and a bunch of jumper wires. Make sure you use the longer jumper wires for the SDA and SCL connections between the Nano and the Servo Driver.
If you bought a kit from us, all connections are already made, other than plugging the servos into the marked servo extension connectors.

====STEP 7: Assemble the leg hinges====
[[File:Servo-Bracket-Alignment-v1.png|thumb|350px|right|Align the leg hinges as shown here. The bumps (see arrows) should both be near each other when properly aligned. Hold one in each hand with the ends of the U shape between thumb and forefinger.]]
Each leg hinge is composed of two identical U-shaped parts. Take one in each hand and align the two so that the bump (shown in the diagram at the right) are both near each other. Turn one 90 degrees with respect to the other.
*Gently squeeze each piece between thumb and forefinger, which causes the little jaws in the center to open up slightly. Work the two halves together. Keep squeezing harder until the ends slide into place.
*If you used PLA and are finding it hard to bend, briefly soaking the pieces in very hot tap water has been reported to make it easier. Take care not to scald yourself, the water does not have to be boiling, just hot from the tap. You only need to dip the ends that will lock over each other, not the parts you will squeeze. Use caution.
*At this stage, you may notice that the parts are loosely clamped on each other (this depends on plastic used and whether your printer over- or under-extrudes). Don't worry! When you place the leg hinges over a servo, the servo will spread it apart and they will lock together more tightly.
* Use a #6-32 1" screw and matching nut through the center hole of the two joined leg hinges to secure the hinges further. (This is necessary because the gigapod's hinges are under much more stress than in the megapod or hexapod.)
*Insert a 6202ZZ bearing into the socket on one side of the leg hinges. Pliers may be necessary to press them into place. Make sure you clean up any drips inside the recessed area for the skate bearing before attempting to insert the bearings. If you have a lot of trouble getting them in, you could heat up that part of the hinge in hot tap water to soften the plastic, or use a butane lighter (carefully! don't stop moving it) to soften the plastic before inserting the bearing.

====STEP 8: Attach Leg Hinges====
The leg hinges connect the hips to the knees. They only go on one way. If you made sure to align the bumps when assembling the leg hinges, this will result in correct orientation of all legs.
*First place the end that matches the servo horn on about halfway. Make sure the servo horn slides under the little pocket at the end of recessed area that accepts the horn.
*Very slightly bend the U shaped piece while pulling the skate bearing side over the hemispherical bump on the other side of the servo holding area. It's a little easier to do the knees (servos mounted to legs) first, followed by the hips (servos on base).
*NOTE: It will be a tight fit, but it should not be excessively difficult to push the hinge over the bearing.
*When completed, double check to make sure the servo horn went into the covered pocket at the end of its recessed area. This pocket keeps the horn from slipping out of the hinge during stressful operations.

====STEP 9: Enclose the electronics modules in their caddies====

Now things look pretty messy with all those wires hanging loose, let's clean it up by stowing the Arduino Nano, Bluetooth module and Servo Driver in their caddies. The caddies will keep them safe by making sure they can't short out against each other or touch screws, etc.
* '''STEP 9A: Insert Caddy Bars''' Insert the electronics caddy bars as shown in the diagrams below. Notice carefully how they are inserted. Don't insert them upside down, the little hump should be facing inward toward the caddy. You may need to slightly squeeze the forked section at the end to work it into the hole. Once inside, it may be difficult to remove because it will snap into place, so be sure you're putting it in the right way.
<gallery mode=packed heights=300>
File:Insert-Caddy-Bar-1.jpg|Insertion of the caddy bar into the Nano caddy. Notice the orientation, don't put the bar in upside down. The same technique is used for the Servo Driver Caddy.
</gallery>
* '''STEP 9B: Insert the Arduino Nano into its caddy''' Carefully insert the Nano as shown, making sure you don't pull out any of the wires. You may need to wiggle the caddy bar from side to side a bit so that components can slide past it during insertion. Notice that the end of the Nano that has the USB port must go in last.

<gallery mode=packed heights=250>
File:Insert-Nano-In-Caddy-1.jpg|Insert the Nano in the orientation shown.
File:Insert-Nano-In-Caddy-2.jpg|You may need to wiggle it a bit or press on the bar to work it into place.
File:Insert-Nano-In-Caddy-3.jpg|Note how the USB port is accessible through the top after full insertion.
</gallery>

* '''STEP 9C: Insert the Servo Driver into its caddy''' Carefully insert the Servo Driver as shown, making sure you don't pull out any of the wires. You may need to wiggle the caddy bar from side to side a bit so that components can slide past it during insertion. Notice that the end of the Servo controller with wires sticking out of it must go in last.

<gallery mode=packed heights=200>
File:Insert-ServoDriver-In-Caddy-1.jpg|Insert the Servo Driver in the orientation shown.
File:Insert-ServoDriver-In-Caddy-2.jpg|You may need to wiggle it a bit or press on the bar to work it into place.
File:Insert-ServoDriver-In-Caddy-3.jpg|Note that the end with the wires goes in last.
</gallery>

* '''STEP 9D: Insert the HC05 Bluetooth Module''' The diagrams here do not show the wires to make them easier to visualize. The HC05 Bluetooth module with a name beginning with "S" should be used for the robot. For example, the label will read something like "VORP S2944" (the number will differ). The one marked "M" will be used for the gamepad. Slide the HC05 into the side drawer as shown. When inserting, be careful not to pull out the wires, which will be a little tight. Work the wires into the little space provided so they stay clear of the robot's cap when it gets screwed on later.

<gallery mode=packed heights=250>
File:Insert-HC05-in-Caddy-1.jpg|Insert the HC05 into the side drawer of the Nano Caddy as shown.
File:Insert-HC05-in-Caddy-2.jpg|When fully inserted, the indicator light will still be visible through the small oval.
File:Insert-HC05-in-Caddy-3.jpg|The wires should be tucked into the little cavity near the pins of the HC05.
</gallery>

====STEP 10: Power up!====
Make sure the on/off switch is off, and the knob is turned to STOP. Attach the proper batteries (a 9v recharageable NIMH or LI-ON, and an 8.4 volt 4000 or more mAh NIMH with XT60 connector) and power on the robot using the on/off switch. You should hear a beep, a pause, then a second beep. The servos should all twitch into position. If the robot does not move at all, immediately turn the switch off and check your connections again. If some of the servos don't move then gently push them with power off to see if you can free them up. If they still won't move, try pushing them with power applied, but turn off the power within 30 seconds if they're locked up. If you can't get the servo to move it will need to be replaced.

[[File:Servo-Horn-Orientation.png|thumb|right|The servo horn should come straight out from the body at a 90 degree angle as shown here. Do not turn the servo shaft by hand until after it has moved under power!]]

====STEP 11: Insert Servo Horns====
The servo horns are all at random-ish angles right now. In this step we'll make them point in the right direction. The knee servos are not at 90 degrees when the knob is all the way counter clockwise, rather they are at a 30 degree standing angle.

We need to get them to 90 degrees so its easy to align the servo horn, and this is done by going into "Adjust Mode". Turn the knob very slightly clockwise until you hear a beep, then stop. After about one second you will see all the knee servos twitch. This is "adjust servo horn mode". All servos (knees and hips) are now at their halfway point, 90 degrees.

Now you need to take each single arm servo horn and carefully insert it on the shaft so that it is sticking straight out as shown in the figure. You will not always be able to make the horn come totally straight out. This is because there are only 22 little groves (splines) in each shaft, meaning you can in general only come within about 8 degrees of being at a perfect 90 degree angle. This amount of error is acceptable for now, just get it as close as you can. Later we'll use Trim Mode to make fine adjustments.

====STEP 12: Test Knee Positions====
Turn the knob fully counter clockwise (to STOP) and the robot will go into "stand still" mode. Place it on a level surface such as a table top. Do all of the legs touch the ground? If one or more legs don't touch the ground, you need to adjust the servo horn on the knee a little bit so it does touch. Gently pull off the servo bracket. Pull the servo horn off, and put it back on just a little bit moved so the leg would move closer to the ground. Put the servo bracket back on, and see how it looks. Do this until all legs are at least slightly touching the ground. Again, you can't necessarily be perfect due to the 8 degree increments the servo horns can be moved. But you should be able to be close enough that all legs at least slightly touch the ground.

====STEP 13: Insert Servo Screws====
Now that the legs are adjusted, you can insert the M3x12 screws (with M3 lock washers) into the servo horns to lock them in place. Note that you will NOT be using the screws that were in the little bag the servos came in, you'll be using the separate pack of screws, which are longer than the ones in the servo bag. Do not overtighten these screws, as you could possibly crack the servo brackets. Just turn the screws until you start to feel resistance, then turn a quarter turn more and stop.

====STEP 14: Test the Servos====
*'''STEP 14A: Using TST Mode'''
**To test whether every servo is working, put the robot on something that will lift its legs off the table top, but won't interfere with the legs (a small box or stack of books will work).
**Start with the knob on STOP, then slowly turn it clockwise. You'll hear one beep (Adjust mode), then a second beep (Test mode). Stop turning and the robot will go into "individual servo test mode". In this mode, every hip servo will move, one by one. When all the hips have moved, every leg will move, one by one. You should see every servo move, in order. If some don't move, check your connections. A common error is to plug a servo connector into the servo controller backwards (i.e. the brown wire is matched with the yellow pin instead of the black pin). If the servos do not move in a sensible order, that probably means you plugged a couple of servos into the wrong sockets in the electrical harness.

*'''STEP 14B: Test Using Demo Mode'''
**Ok, everything looks good, so time for a full test. Turn the knob to STOP, then put the robot on the floor, somewhere that has at least a few feet of room in each direction. (Caution: it's tempting to do this on a table top, but unless you have a huge table this is not advisable, Max will run pretty fast at some points during the demo.)
**Turn the knob to DEMO, and about one second later the robot will go through a series of movements to demonstrate some of the things it can do. The full demo only takes about 30 seconds, then repeats. Here, you are looking for the robot to, for example, be able to get back up off the floor after doing some of its dance moves.
**If the robot struggles to get off the floor, you may have a battery that is not fully charged, or there may be drips or other obstructions stopping some legs from moving fully. See the [[Vorpal Combat_Hexapod Troubleshooting Guide|Trouble Shooting Guide]] for more information about different kinds of issues that can occur. That guide was written for the small robot, but most of the things that can go wrong with the Gigapod are similar to the things that can go wrong with Vorpal The Hexapod.

====STEP 15: Store electronics and wires in the Base====
Carefully stow the caddies into the base, using any available convenient space. NOTE: Unlike the small hexapod and megapod, the Gigapod saves weight by not having any service access covers. This makes it look messier when the top is off, but the savings in weight was necessary to avoid servo stress.
<gallery mode=packed heights=250>
File:All-Electronics-Inserted-In-Base.jpg|Carefully stow the caddies into the base, being careful not to pull out any wires.
</gallery>

====STEP 16: Assemble the Cap====
*'''STEP 16A: Assemble the Four Cap Parts'''
**First assemble the three large pieces after removing the support coming out of the center. Be aware that there is a correct ordering to them, the two flaps that stick out near the bottom need to be opposite each other so the cap can slot into the Base and lock in place. Use #6-32 x 1 inch screws plus nylox locking nuts to secure the three parts together as shown. There are access holes around the rim that allow the hex key to reach the screws. Use nuts and locking washers to secure the screws.
**Secure the top of the cap onto the bottom three pieces using three 1 inch #6 socket screws and their associated nylox locking nuts.
<gallery mode=packed heights=250>
File:Cap-Exploded.JPG|Arrangement of the four Cap parts. Note that this diagram shows the support in place, this should actually be removed prior to assembly.
File:CAP-Assembly-order.JPG|Make sure the two flaps at the rim are opposite each other when ordering the three main parts.
</gallery>
* '''STEP 16B: Put Hook-and-loop on Cap''' Peel and stick on the "hook" side of a 1" piece of hook-and-loop on each flat circular decoration holder on the cap.
* '''STEP 16C: Decorate''' If desired, use a permanent marker to color the Vorpal "V" on top of the Cap. Oil markers work well. On light colors of plastic a black permanent marker will also work.
* '''STEP 16D: Put Cap on the Hexapod'''
**Screw the cap on the robot by lining up the tabs with the matching slots in the rim of the base. Turn the cap clockwise to lock it in place. IMPORTANT: Do not press down on the robot to insert the cap when the robot is under power standing on its legs! You can damage the leg motors by doing this. It is best to turn the robot off, and either support the bottom of the Base with one hand and press the Cap on with the other, or set the Base down on the table top or floor with legs out to the sides so they don't take pressure.
**If the cap is too loose and swivels while the robot moves, this can be fixed by putting a bit of tape on the cap's flaps to make them a little thicker. The tightness of the cap depends a lot on printer settings, over- or under-extrusion, etc.

====STEP 17: Warning Label====
There are self-stick choking hazard warning labels and also several pinch point warning labels in the hexapod parts bag. Peel the backing off one choking hazard lable and place it on the bottom of the robot, near the center. Retain the second label for the gamepad. The pinch point warnings should be placed around the body of the robot, above the legs, in visible positions. Depending on what kind of plastic you're using, they might or might not stick well. If they don't stick, use glue (such as cyanoacrilate "super glue" or even hot glue) to secure them. The warning labels are not optional! They are necessary for safety. The motors are powerful and can snap your fingers like a twig, or cause severe pinch injuries, sprains, or bruises.

==== Step 18: Trimming the Servos ====
When you assembled the servo horns onto the servos, you probably were not able to get them all to come out exactly at a 90 degree angle. That's not your fault: the servo horns only have 22 possible positions in which they can be installed, so at best you can come within plus or minus 8 degrees of perfection.

Now that you have the gamepad working, you can make fine adjustments to the servo positions using "Trim Mode". In this special gamepad mode, you can adjust all the servos to within a fraction of a degree. These adjustments are saved in the robot's EEPROM, which is memory on the Nano that retains data even when powered off. So, you only need to trim once.

Complete instructions on how to use trim mode are in the wiki page: [[Vorpal The Hexapod Trim Mode Guide]]. That guide was written for the smaller robot, but the instructions are identical for the Gigapod.

NOTE: although this step is optional, it is strongly recommended because your robot will walk straighter and all the servos will share equally in lifting the robot's weight, which will make them last longer.

====Step 19: Assembling Eye Decorations====
Peel and stick a piece of "loop" from the supplied hook and loop fasteners on the back of the two eye pieces. This allows you to stick the eyes on the Cap's matching "hook" areas.

NOTE: There are extra hook and loop circles included in your kit. You can create your own attachments, nameplates, etc. using these.

==Electrical Connections: Robot==
Please note that our Gigapod kit comes prewired using our QuickBuild system. The notes in this section are for makers who self-source.

===NOTES ON JUMPER WIRES===

====Wire Lengths====
There are two different lengths of female-female Dupont jumper wires used to make most connections. The longer ones (20cm) are only used for the Hexapod's accessory port connections. The shorter ones are used for all the connections on the Gamepad and all the connections on the Hexapod between the Arduino Nano, Servo controller and Bluetooth module.

====Wire Color Conventions====

Please follow these conventions when selecting wire colors:
* For +5V, Vin, and similar positive voltage connections, use either RED or ORANGE.
* For GND and other negative electrical connections, use BLACK or BROWN.
* For the connectors that sit at the mouth of the accessory port (used for optional sensors) colors are suggested below in the instructions. By following these suggestions you will make your life easier when connecting sensors!
* For all other connections, you can use any color you want, it's arbitrary.

====If Jumper Wires Are Too Loose====
Sometimes you will find a wire whose connector does not grip the pin well enough. It might fall off very easily or just by gravity alone. If that happens, you have a few options:
* There are extra wires in your kit. If you find a wire that's too loose, just use a different wire.
* Using the hex key, you can put the jumper housing on a flat surface then press on the metal showing through the plastic connector, which will tighten up the jumper wire's grip. Don't go too overboard on pressing though or you might make it too hard to insert.
* Alternatively, you could use electrical tape after inserting all the wires on a module (such as the Nano) to effectively attach together all the little plastic female connector housings. In that way, the connectors that do grip will help hold in the ones that are too loose. Some people also like using hot glue for this purpose. (Personally, I don't like using hot glue, as it makes it harder to change connections if you hooked something up incorrectly.)

===NANO PIN CONNECTIONS===
[[File:Megapod-Nano-Connections-v1.JPG|thumb|600px|right|Diagram of Nano connections for the Hexapod. Jumpers marked AP are routed to the Accessory Port for use with add-ons like sensors. Click for larger image.]]
* ''Digital IO Pins:''
** D0, D1 are reserved because they are used for uploading programs to the robot, so nothing will be connected there.
** D2, D3 No connection.
** D4 Buzzer Signal (white wire)
** D5 through D13 No connection. These pins are reserved for future expansion.

* ''Analog Pins:''
** A0 Potentiometer signal (white wire)
** A1 Potentiometer Power (red wire)
** A2 Potentiometer Ground (black wire)
** A3 No connection.
** A4 Servo Controller SDA
** A5 Servo Controller SCL
** A6, A7 No connection.

* ''Power Pins:''
** +5V pin on Nano connects to any of the +5V RED wires coming from the BEC on the power distribution harness.
** GND pin on Nano connects to any of the GND BLACK wires coming from the BEC on the power distribution harness.

===Servo Driver Power Pins===
* Port 0 RED pin on the Servo Driver connects to any of the +5V RED wires coming from the BEC on the power distribution harness.
* Port 0 BLACK GND pin on the Servo Driver connects to any of the GND BLACK wires coming from the BEC on the power distribution harness.

=== Bluetooth Module Power ===
* +5V on HC05 connects to any RED Dupont connector coming off the BEC.
* GND on HC05 connects to any BLACK Dupont connector coming off the BEC.

=== Buzzer Power ===
* Plug the buzzer into the unused port 15 on the servo driver, making sure the red and black wires on the buzzer power match the red and black rows of pins on the servo driver.

=== Servo Driver ===
[[File:Megapod-ServoDriverConnections.jpg|thumb|600px|right|Diagram of Servo Controller pins you will use in this project. Each servo motor has a 3 wire connector that should be plugged into the corresponding servo number extension connector in the power distribution harness. The white wires coming out of the harness in groups of four should be connected to the yellow line or ports, matching the number ranges to port numbers. Note that the black and red rows of pins are not used, power is provided to the servos through the power distribution harness. Click for larger image.]]
* Connect the 12 servos to power distribution harness connectors marked with port numbers corresponding to the servo marking (0 to 11). Make sure the signal wire (yellow) is oriented correctly and matches the yellow plastic header pin.
* Connect the groups of four white wires which are marked with servo port numbers to the Servo Driver yellow pins, matching the Servo Driver pin number to the port numbers written on the 4-pin Dupont connectors coming out of the power distribution harness.
* Connect one of the +5V RED regulated BEC outputs to the RED port 0 pin of the Servo Driver. Connect one of the GND black pins coming out of the BEC to the BLACK port 0 GND pin on the Servo Driver.
* On one short side of the Servo Controller you will find a VCC and V+ pin right next to each other. Use a shunt (small black connector that goes over two pins) to connect those together if one is not already installed. Without this shunt the Servo Driver will not work.
* SDA and SCL go to A4 and A5 on the Nano, respectively.



== Building the Gamepad ==
The gamepad for Gidget the Gigapod is identical to the Gamepad for Vorpal The Hexapod (and also Max the Megapod).

Please see instructions on [[Vorpal_The_Hexapod_Building_Instructions#Building_the_Gamepadd|the Vorpal Hexapod Gamepad Assembly instructions]].

{{Gigapod Quick Links}}

Gidget The Gigapod Assembly Instructions

2021-03-21T17:43:03Z

Vorpalwiki: /* ROBOT BOM */

==LIMITED AVAILABILITY==

Our kits for this project are special order at this time. Allow two weeks for us to ship. Because the parts are relatively heavy, shipping to areas outside the USA is expensive. For makers outside the USA, you may want to try to acquire the parts locally. But beware of subsitutions! Walking robots have very precise requirements and any substitutions of parts may cause the project not to function as expected.

Warning: The 3D printed parts for this project consume a lot of plastic and the print (on our own printers) is over 200 hours for all the parts. (It's not 200 hours straight, it's multiple print jobs each running 6 to 16 hours.) You shouldn't attempt this unless you're prepared for long print times and your printer is well tuned to make failures rare.

NEW: our Megapod and Gigapod kits are now standard with the "Quickbuild" electrical system. This cuts over an hour off the build time.

==Gidget The Gigapod Construction==
[[File:Giga-Mega-Hexa-Stacked.jpg|right|thumb|Gigapod, Megapod, Hexapod relative sizes]]
Gidget The Gigapod is a very large, 3d printed, hexapod robot. This page gives complete instructions for building this project. If you are new to 3d printing, you probably don't want to start with this one, though. Please consider our smaller [[Vorpal The Hexapod]] project instead.
==BILL OF MATERIALS (BOM) FOR GIDGET THE GIGAPOD==
===Notes on Sourcing Parts Yourself===
* These instructions assume you have purchased a kit from us (kits are currently a special order item). If you are sourcing your own parts, please be aware of the following additional information:
**If you are sourcing your own parts, you need to build the power distribution connector assembly. This is identical to the power distribution system for [[Max The Megapod]]. For diagrams see [[Max The Megapod Battery/Switch Construction]] except that it uses an XT60 connector instead of Tamaya for the large battery, and it uses a 30 amp fuse instead of a 15 amp fuse. This will take about 2 hours of soldering and labelling work.
**Also see important information on that page if you are sourcing your own BEC.
**If you are sourcing your own Bluetooth modules, please be aware that you will need to configure them to auto-pair and to have a UART speed of 38400 BAUD. Every module brand's firmware is a bit different so it's not possible for us to give you universal instructions on how to program them. We assume that if you source your own parts you are familiar with how to configure Bluetooth modules using AT-commands. (You can find tutorials online or videos on youtube, but like we said, different modules may not exactly match instructions you will find so be prepared to fiddle around a bit). Please do not ask our customer support for help on this topic. We sell pre-configured modules that auto-pair on boot for a very reasonable price.
**If you are sourcing your own Arduino Nano modules, you will need to flash the robot and gamepad code on them. You can find the latest stable release of code at the [https://tinyurl.com/VORPALFILES Vorpal Hexapod Public Dropbox folder]. The source code tree is posted in our github repository, but the top of that tree may not be stable. Note: there is currently no difference in software between the large and small versions of the hexapod other than a single #define called HEXSIZE. For the gigapod, this should be set to 2.
* Please be very careful about substitutions. You might think you can substitute cheaper parts for the ones specified here. Don't bet on it. Walking robots are extremely difficult to design, and we've chosen each part for a good reason. For example, if you try to substitute cheaper servos you are very likely to find that they don't provide enough torque for the robot to stand up, or they burn out within minutes due to being over-stressed. If you substitute a different battery voltage, you'll either fry the servos or they won't have enough torque. It took 1,000 hours of work to design the smaller hexapod on which this one is based, then another 500 hours of redesign, testing, and tuning to get the big version working well. If you want to try substitutions, okay, but please don't expect it to work without many hours of adjustments and testing.
* Full kits of parts as well as individual parts will be available on [http://store.vorpalrobotics.com The Vorpal Robotics Store]. If you are new to Arduino and robotics we strongly recommend you purchase a kit instead of trying to self-source parts (and truthfully, if you're not experienced with this kind of project you really should build the smaller [[Vorpal The Hexapod]] kit first. NOTE: kits will not be available until approximately Fall 2020 due to delays in getting parts from China due to the virus pandemic.
* Our kits cut 4 to 5 hours off the build time, bringing it to typically 2 to 3 or so hours. The kits have all soldering done, programs are already loaded on the Nanos, Bluetooth modules are properly configured, and you know you have all the right parts to work together. About half the people who self-source parts end up buying parts that are incorrect or are so cheap that they will quickly fail (and they end up spending more money and far more time than if they had simply bought a kit to start with!)

=== ROBOT BOM ===
[[File:Choking-Hazard-Image.jpg|right|350px]]
[[File:PinchPoint-Warning.JPG|right|350px]]

* ''Electronics:''
** Passive Piezo Buzzer module and 3 wire cable (see image) [[File:Passive-Piezo-Buzzer-Module.jpg|right|thumb|Passive Piezo Buzzer Module]]
** Arduino Nano, 5V, 16 mHz, ATMEGA328 or similar (marked RM in our kit to indicate it is pre-loaded with Gigapod robot software)
** Rotary potentiometer, 10K Ohms, 6mm shaft diameter, with 3 wires pre-soldered. Also, matching dial cap and nut. If you are self-sourcing see our instructions: [[Max The Megapod Battery/Switch Construction]]
** 1 x HC05 BlueTooth Module with F-F jumper wires for making connections (our kit electronics are pre-wired for you)
** 1 x Servo Controller module (Adafruit 16-channel 12-bit I2C PWM/Servo driver or Adafruit clone) with F-F jumper wires for making connections, plus 1 two-pin shunt tying V+ to VCC
** 12 x DS5160 SSG 180 degree, 60 kg-cm torque servo motors with metal servo horns. Be sure you order the 180 degree version, these servos also come in a 270 degree version.
** 1 x Power distribution wiring harness with DPST on/off switch, Fuse, XT60 battery connector, 3A 5V BEC, and servo extension connectors. If you are self-sourcing see our wiring instructions: [[Max The Megapod Battery/Switch Construction|Circuit Diagrams]]. (The battery/switch circuit for the Gigapod is identical to that of the Megapod except it uses an XT60 connector for the large battery and it uses a 30 amp fuse instead of a 15 amp fuse.)
* ''3D Printed Parts:''
All STL files are available from our [[http://tinyurl.com/VORPALFILES Vorpal Public Files Dropbox]] under the STL sub-folder.
** 6 Robot Base Parts and bottom plate to hold the parts together.
** 4 Cap parts which screw together to form the cap of the robot.
** 6 x Legs
** 6 x Boots that will be assembled with wheels.
** 6 x Boot Bushings, cap side, to hold boots onto main legs (the screw goes in this side)
** 6 x Boot Bushings, nut side, to hold boots onto main legs (this side has a hex cutout to hold a hex nut).
** 6 x TPU wheels that are installed in the Boot
** 12 x Wheel bushings that sandwich the wheel, acting as spacers
** 6 x TPU Shoes to provide better traction. These should be printed in TPU or other flexible plastics so they absorb some impact during walking. They should only be used on surfaces with low friction. They should be removed if walking on asphalt or other rough surfaces.
** 12 x Servo Stops. These parts hold the servos in their compartments both in the base and the legs.
** 12 x Servo Bearing Pegs. These insert into the servo compartments and provide a secure place for the bearings to sit.
** 12 x Leg Hinge halves with Leg Hinge Rings. The rings stop layer separation issues under stress.
** 1 x Electronics Caddy to hold Arduino Nano
** 1 x Electronics Caddy to hold the Servo Driver
** 2 x Eye/glasses Decoration
** 8 x 1 inch diameter hook-and-loop self stick circles to attach of eyes and other decorations
* ''Screws and Fasteners''
** 12 x Nylon bolts 1/4-20 x 2" long. These can be partially threaded. Note that it is important for these to be made of nylon for weight savings. These are used to secure servos in place using the servo stopper part.
** 12 x M3x20mm button head screws (with matching flat washers and external tooth washers) to secure servo arms to servo through the screw hole in the hinge.
** 6 x #6-32 x 1.75" long cap screws plus nuts to attach boots onto the end of the leg
** 6 x #6-32 x 1" long cap screws plus nuts to provide axles for the boot wheels.
** 6 x 1/4-20 x 1.25" long cap screw plus nylox locking nuts for holding the BASE parts together
** 6 x 1/4-20 x 3/4" long cap screw plus nylox locking nuts for holding the BOTTOM onto the BASE assembly
** 6 x #6-32 cap screws plus nylox locking nuts for holding the CAP and CAP TOPPER parts together
** 6 x #6-32 cap screws plus nylox locking nuts for holding the LEG HINGES together. Note that the smaller versions of the robot depend on a snap-together system to hold the hinges together, but the larger Gigapod requires a screw through the center hole to ensure the hinges remain together.
** If you are self-sourcing and building your own electrical system, you will also need 10 x #6-32 x 1/2" screws to hold the power distribution plastic covers together. If you buy our kit, these are already installed on the wiring harness.
* ''Miscellaneous Mechanical Parts:''
** 12 x 6202ZZ Double Metal Seal Bearings 15x35x11mm for leg hinges
** 12 x 608zz Skate Bearings with nylon coated wheel, dimensions: 27.5mm diameter wheel, 8mm inner diameter on bearing, 8mm wide.
* ''Tools Required (Not included in kit)''
** Hex drivers for the various sized bolts and screws.
** Needle nose pliers are useful for holding the nuts while assembling BASE and CAP parts.
** 3 x Pinch Point Stickers. Place these around the robot Base to warn onlookers not to touch the robot. Some kinds of plastic may not stick well to the adhesive, you may need to secure with hot glue or superglue or similar.
* ''Batteries and Chargers''
** The Gigapod uses a 4200 mAH (a little more is okay but don't go too high due to weight considerations) 7-cell NIMH battery (8.4 Volts) with male XT60 connector and compatible charger, such as: [https://www.batteryspace.com/nimhbatterypack84v4200mahhumpbatterypacksforrctraxxasandlosietc.aspx BatterySpace 42000 mAH 8.4 V NIMH] (We use that one for demos with the 14 gauge wire option, and we solder on an XT60 male connector in-house. You get about 30 minutes of run time with this battery.)
**The Gigapod also requires one 9v battery, we recommend NIMH or LI-ON rechargeable with compatible charger.
** The gamepad takes any kind of standard 9v rectangular batter, either rechargeable or disposable work fine. These are commonly available from many sources. We recommend rechargeable NIMH or LI-ON 9v batteries with compatible charger.
** Note that we do not provide batteries or chargers with our kits due to licenses required to ship batteries.
NOTE ON BATTERY SAFETY: Never leave batteries in the Gigapod or gamepad after use. If either one gets turned on accidentally, overdraining the battery may damage or destroy it. As soon as the Gigapod has trouble moving or sags under its own weight, immediately stop and replace with fresh batteries.

=== GAMEPAD BOM AND ASSEMBLY ===
The gamepad for Gidget the Gigapod is identical to the gamepad for Vorpal The Hexapod. See instructions for the gamepad here: [[Vorpal_The_Hexapod_Building_Instructions#Building_the_Gamepadd|Vorpal The Hexapod Gamepad Assembly instructions]]

==Printing the Plastic Parts==

This section assumes you have basic familiarity with 3D printing and 3D printing terminology. If not, you might want to reference online materials such as youtube videos or information from your 3D printer manufacturer before attempting this project.

Please note: it takes over 200 hours to print this project. This is not a project for the faint of heart, or for people who are not experienced in 3d printing and have not tuned and maintained their printers. If you are a beginner at 3d printing, we strongly recommend that you start with our smaller [[Vorpal the Hexapod]] project. It's a 16 hour print, requires a lot less bridging, and less than a tenth as much practice.

===OBTAINING THE STL FILES===
We have posted the STL files to [http://www.thingiverse.com Thingiverse]. Search for "Gidget the Gigapod" and they should pop right up.

Please help us by rating the Gidget the Gigapod project (or clicking on the LIKE button, COLLECT button, etc.)!

Please post your builds to places like Thingiverse, pictures to FaceBook, Instagram, etc., and videos of your robot to YouTube! This will help us grow and continue having the resources creating cool new projects for our community.

===MINIMUM PRINTER REQUIREMENTS===
*The bed size should be at least 275mm cube (about 11 inches cube). The largest parts are the six Base and the 3 Cap parts in the x and y directions, and in the Z direction the Leg is largest, so these are the limiting factor on bed size.
* For almost all parts, we recommend PLA PRO plastic (or similiar enhanced PLA plastics that may go under other names like PLA+). These are large parts and so PLA is preferred due it being resistant to warping.
* The boots part is best made of TPU plastic, or similar flexible plastics, to reduce the impact of walking on floors.
===AMOUNT OF PLASTIC FILAMENT===
* About 6 to 7 kg of PLA plastic are needed to print the entire robot and gamepad, assuming no print failures.
* About 200 grams of TPU (or similar flexible plastic) are needed to print the wheels. It is possible to print the wheels out of harder plastics but in that case they might scratch wooden floors, so we suggest TPU or some other flexible, soft plastic.
* The amount of plastic used does depend on plastic type and exact print settings though, so your mileage may vary.

===RECOMMENDED PLASTICS===
*ABS, PETG, and PLA all work well. However, because there are some very large parts, ABS may cause you some warping issues if you don't have a heated bed, enclosure, and a printer tuned well for large parts. PLA is generally easier and has fewer issues with corners peeling off the print bed.
*We use eSun PLA PRO for this project and for us it works very well. PLA PRO is a little more flexible and stronger than typical PLA. We have no problems with warping even on the largest parts.
*For the boots, we used Sainsmart TPU and it works very well. Other flexible plastics would probably also be fine.
*This project requires less flexibility than the smaller Vorpal The Hexapod project, so ABS is not at all required for this project.
===PRINTING TIPS===
This project has been finely tuned to make it easy to 3D print. No additional supports are required for any of the parts (there is a support built into the models for the CAP parts and there are tiny supports built into the hinge parts). In some cases you may want to use brims or rafts to help parts adhere to the print surface. These are large, long prints so using a brim for a little added safety is probably prudent.

There is some significant bridging with some spans up to 45mm (1.8"). It is important to tune your printer and make sure it can handle the bridging before attempting the large parts. A little sagging is ok and a drip or two can be easily removed, but you need decent ability to bridge. There are bridge testing and calibration models posted on sites like Thingiverse that may help you tune your printer before trying the big parts. There are numerous "3d printing tips" type postings on the internet that make suggestions for how to tune for features like bridging.

====PRINT SETTINGS====
We print using the following settings on a Lulzbot TAZ 6 with 0.5mm nozzle:
* 0.4 layer thickness (or whatever layer thickness is the largest that will work on your printer)
* 2mm walls (i.e. four perimeters for a 0.5mm nozzle)
* 1.6 mm top and bottom (i.e. four layers at 0.4mm layer height)
* 25% infill
* You can print with thinner layers if your printer does not support 0.4mm layers or if you want a more refined look, it will just take longer. If you have a large nozzle (0.8mm or more) you should be able to go with bigger layers and save a lot of print time. Please report your findings to us at support@vorpalrobotics.com so we can advise future Makers of this project.

====POST PRINT====
Other than removing brims/rafts, cap and hinge built in supports, and the occasional drip, there is not any special post-processing required after printing. Some of the big bridges might seem a little saggy but generally speaking there's enough tolerance that this won't cause an issue. The biggest bridges are mostly hidden inside the robot so they won't affect cosmetics.

====PRO TIPS====
*Do routine maintenance on your printer before printing the big parts: lubricate rods and lead screws, check bed leveling, replace nozzle if worn, do a calibration print, clean your print surface, etc. A few minutes of preparation will help you nail these prints and make a project you can be very proud of!
*Print the large parts (Base, Cap) at the ''start'' of new spools. The last thing you want is to run out of filament 95% of the way through a big part.
*Print the smallest parts (servo stops, hinge rings, Leg pegs, gamepad drawer) near the end of a spool.
*If you have a large format printer, it is tempting to kick off several large parts at once and let it run overnight. We would recommend against that--the chances of killing an entire spool of filament due to an overnight power hit or other failure is just not worth it. Take your time, do the big parts one by one. One or two during the day, one overnight. It will all get done soon enough. An extra few days won't matter in the long run.

== Building the Robot ==

You will need the following tools:
*Included in the kit:
** 2mm hex key. A 5/64 inch hex key will also work. This is in the Gigapod Parts bag.
** 7/64 hex key at least 6" long (150mm). It needs to be long enough to reach screws through access holes in the Base and Cap. This is in the Gigapod Parts Bag.
*Not included in the kit:
** Optional: A marker that can write on dark plastic and still be seen, such as Sharpie Metallic or Sharpie Oil markers (white and yellow work great on dark colored plastic, black or blue work well on light colored plastic). This can be used to make raised lettering on the robot and gamepad more visible.
** Optional: Needle nose pliers can be helpful for holding nuts in place while tightening screws.
** Optional: Slip-joint pliers can be helpful for forcing the skate bearings into their press-fit locations on the Leg Hinges

===IMPORTANT WARNING: POWERFUL SERVOS MAY INJURE YOU===
The motors on Gidget the Gigapod are very powerful compared to the smaller Vorpal the Hexapod (or even Max the Megapod) projects. It is possible for the leg motions to pinch fingers or even possibly break fingers or cause other injuries, possibly severe. When powering on the Gigapod you must keep fingers clear of places where the legs/hips can come together. You should mount the included "Pinch Point" stickers around the Base of the robot to warn others. During public demonstrations, keep adults and especially children away from the robot when it's operating. Little kids will definitely try to touch the robot and could be injured, keep them at a safe distance. In case of electrical issues the legs may move unexpectedly. Turning the power off will release the motors. Never carry the Gigapod when it's powered on. For safety, I disconnect the battery when transporting, just to prevent the possibility that the power switch will get hit accidentally.

If the robot is moving in an out of control manner, use a pencil, book, or rod to hit the power switch from a safe distance. The switch is large and easy to turn off.

You must at all times take standard precautions that are typical with large robotic projects.

If you are building your own electrical system please do not skimp by skipping adding the fuse to the circuit. This project may draw significant amperage and fuse protection is required.

===Step by Step Instructions===
PLEASE NOTE: These instructions are currently in draft state, and I've used diagrams from Max the Megapod here temporarily. The construction is very similar, although you will note some discrepancies such as the BASE for the Megapod comes in 3 parts while in the Gigapod it comes in 6 parts. Still, the construction is analogous. I'll be replacing diagrams for the parts that are not the same first.

====STEP 1: Build the BASE====
* STEP 1A: Take the six outer parts of the base (STL files: Base-1, Base-2, ... Base-6) and arrange them to form the "bowl" of the base. Make sure the servo numbers are in the right order as you move clockwise around the six parts! It's possible to assemble them in the wrong order if you don't check.
* STEP 1B: There are matching screw holes positioned on little rectangular outcroppings on the inside of the top ring, these require screws to bind the three parts together. Use six 1/4-20 by 1.25 inch socket head screws, toothed lock washers, and nuts to secure them. There is an access hole in the rim of the robot to allow the hex key to turn the screw. You may need to hold the nut in place using needle-nose pliers. Repeat for all six sections.
<gallery mode=packed heights=250>
File:Base-Exploded-View.JPG|Line up the six main pieces of the base, ensuring the servo numbers are in order.
File:Access-Hole-In-Base.jpg|Small access holes are strategically placed around the base so the hex key can turn the screws to secure the three base pieces.
File:Securing-Base-Sections.jpg|Use the access hole in the Base parts to secure screws that bind the three base parts together.
File:Megapod-Foam-Squares.jpg|Peel the backing off the foam squares that came with the kit and attach them to the bottom of the base. Stack them on top of each other.
</gallery>
* STEP 1C: Take the Base Bottom part and place it inside the base. There is a nub in one place that will only allow it to be inserted in one orientation. Use six 1/4-20 by 3/4 inch screws with nuts and lock washers in the outer ring of holes in the bottom to secure it to the base. The head of the screw should be on the outside of the robot and nuts should secure the screws on the inside.
* STEP 1D: Take the foam squares that came in your kit and stick them on the bottom of the robot, reasonably centered. These foam pads will reduce the shock and stress on the robot when it goes down to the floor on certain dance moves. Without these pads, the robot leg servos and body structure may undergo too much stress.

====STEP 2: Install the electrical system in the base====
* STEP 2A: Take the potentiometer and remove its dial cap, then unscrew the nut and set these items aside for now (don't lose them). Push the potentiometer shaft from the inside of the chassis into the hole that is surrounded by the markings "STOP", "TST", etc. The wires coming out of the potentiometer should be pointing down. The little metal nub sticking out of the potentiometer should match with a tiny rectangular hole that is near the marking "TST". Put the retaining nut on the potentiometer, hand tighten first and then give it just another half turn or so with pliers if desired. Turn the knob all the way counter-clockwise, then insert the knob so it points to the letter "O" in the word "STOP".
* STEP 2B: Take the large DPST on/off switch (which is attached to the battery holder and power distribution assembly) and thread the switch wires from the inside through the gap at the bottom of the switch hole (see picture). Carefully push the wires one by one through the slot below the switch hole. Once all the wires are through, push the switch into the switch hole. It should be oriented with the "1" to the right. Press carefully into the hole, it should snap firmly in place.
** If the fit is too tight to get the switch in place, lightly sanding or filing the hole to make it a tiny bit larger should work.
<gallery mode=packed heights=200>
File:Switch-Insert-1.jpg|Thread the switch and its wires through the Base, there is an opening under the switch hole.
File:Switch-Insert-2.jpg|Bring the wires up through the small gap below the switch hole. Be careful with the large wires, they require some pressure or some flexing of the plastic to get through.
File:Switch-Insert-3.jpg|All the wires are now coming through the switch hole.
File:Switch-Insert-4.jpg|Press the switch into the hole, it should snap into place. The "1" should be to the right.
</gallery>

====STEP 3: Insert servos in the chassis====
* Next, insert the servo into the chassis as shown in the diagrams. As you insert the servo into the chassis, slowly press it straight into place until it fully seats. Use a servo stopper and one 1/4-20 by 2 inch nylon hex bolts to secure the servos in place. The nylon bolts should retain in the holes even though there are no threads and no nut used. If you find them working themselves loose, you could wrap a bit of electrical tape around the end of the screw to make the fit tighter.
<gallery mode=packed heights=250>
File:Servo-in-Base-2.jpg|Insert each servo with the wire coming out away from the robot as shown here. Press in completely.
File:Servo-in-Base-3.jpg|Insert a servo stopper (shown in red) and secure with nylong bolt. Thread the wire into the body of the robot through the hole as shown.
</gallery>

====STEP 4: Build the Legs====
=====STEP 4A: Assemble Boot and Wheel=====
Because of the large size of the Gigapod, the leg is assembled using several parts (whereas it is a single part with the smaller hexapod designs). The extra part that is attached at the tip of the main leg piece is called the boot. Each boot is tipped by a TPU wheel. This reduces friction when the robot needs to stand, but provides traction when legs move laterally to walk. The TPU wheel is secured by a #6-32 x 1 inch screw, lock washer, and nut as shown in the diagram below. The entire boot/wheel assembly is attached to the main leg using two bushings, one of which has a hex-shaped indentation to retain a #6-32 nut.
<gallery mode=packed heights=350>
File:Gigapod-Leg-Assembly-Wheel-Boot.PNG|Parts for Boot and Wheel. The boot goes over the main leg and is secured with two leg bushings and a #6-32 1" screw, nut, and lock washer. The wheel is attached between two wheel bushings and is secured with a #6-32 x 1" screw, lock washer, and nut.
File:Gigapod-Leg-Assembly-Bearing-Peg.PNG|Insert Bearing Peg (red). The servo will lock it in place, there are no screws required.
</gallery>

=====STEP 4B: Insert Servos in Legs=====
The technique is very similar to inserting the servo into the chassis.
*Insert the servo straight into the leg socket so that the wire is coming out of the servo facing away from the plastic leg and the face of the servo with the shaft and servo horn goes into the open faced side of the leg, as shown in the diagram.
*Secure the servo in place with a servo stopper and one 2 inch nylong bolt as you did with the hip servos in the base.
*The servos in the legs are called the "knee" servos. Each leg has a higher number on it, this is the knee number, they run from 6 to 11. Again, write this number on the black connector at the end of the servo wire. PRO TIP: For 6 and 9, underline the number so you don't read them upside down!
*Cut a 12 inch length of braided wire covering. Seal the threads at the end using a lighter for a couple seconds to melt them. Be careful not to set on fire. Thread the knee servo wires through the braided wire covering. This will help protect the servo wires, and also makes the robot look better. You may need to use electrical tape or a zip tie to secure the end of the braided covering to the end of the servo wire where it comes out of the servo.
<gallery mode=packed heights=200>
File:Servo-Insert-Leg-v2.png|Insert Servos in Legs
File:Servo-Leg-Inserted-v2.png|Push until fully seated
File:Servo-Stopper-In-Leg.jpg|Use the servo stopper and two screws to lock the servo in place
</gallery>

*Thread each leg servo wire (with braided covering) into the bottom wire guide slot on the chassis. Each leg servo should be matched with a hip servo plus 6. The legs are marked with the hip number near the top and the knee number below that. For example, the leg marked 6 should be threaded through the wire guide on hip servo 0, leg 7 goes with hip 1, leg 8 goes with hip 2, etc. Add 6 to the hip number to get the leg number.

====STEP 5: Plug in the Servos====
Thread the servo wires into the chassis using the routing holes, as you did with the hip servos. The power distribution harness has marked servo extension sockets for each servo. Each hip servo is marked on the BASE showing its number. the knee servo for each hip is numbered six higher than its corresponding hip. For example, hip servo number 3 will be attached to knee servo number 9, because 3+6=9.

When plugging the servos in, make sure you match the light yellow servo wire to the white servo extension wire, and the dark brown servo wire should match with the black servo extension wire.

====STEP 6: Make Robot Electrical Connections====

If you are self-sourcing, use the diagram below in the electrical section to make the rest of the robot's electrical connections. You'll be using the Robot Arduino Nano (marked "R"), the Servo Driver, Bluetooth Module marked "S", the buzzer, and a bunch of jumper wires. Make sure you use the longer jumper wires for the SDA and SCL connections between the Nano and the Servo Driver.
If you bought a kit from us, all connections are already made, other than plugging the servos into the marked servo extension connectors.

====STEP 7: Assemble the leg hinges====
[[File:Servo-Bracket-Alignment-v1.png|thumb|350px|right|Align the leg hinges as shown here. The bumps (see arrows) should both be near each other when properly aligned. Hold one in each hand with the ends of the U shape between thumb and forefinger.]]
Each leg hinge is composed of two identical U-shaped parts. Take one in each hand and align the two so that the bump (shown in the diagram at the right) are both near each other. Turn one 90 degrees with respect to the other.
*Gently squeeze each piece between thumb and forefinger, which causes the little jaws in the center to open up slightly. Work the two halves together. Keep squeezing harder until the ends slide into place.
*If you used PLA and are finding it hard to bend, briefly soaking the pieces in very hot tap water has been reported to make it easier. Take care not to scald yourself, the water does not have to be boiling, just hot from the tap. You only need to dip the ends that will lock over each other, not the parts you will squeeze. Use caution.
*At this stage, you may notice that the parts are loosely clamped on each other (this depends on plastic used and whether your printer over- or under-extrudes). Don't worry! When you place the leg hinges over a servo, the servo will spread it apart and they will lock together more tightly.
* Use a #6-32 1" screw and matching nut through the center hole of the two joined leg hinges to secure the hinges further. (This is necessary because the gigapod's hinges are under much more stress than in the megapod or hexapod.)
*Insert a 6202ZZ bearing into the socket on one side of the leg hinges. Pliers may be necessary to press them into place. Make sure you clean up any drips inside the recessed area for the skate bearing before attempting to insert the bearings. If you have a lot of trouble getting them in, you could heat up that part of the hinge in hot tap water to soften the plastic, or use a butane lighter (carefully! don't stop moving it) to soften the plastic before inserting the bearing.

====STEP 8: Attach Leg Hinges====
The leg hinges connect the hips to the knees. They only go on one way. If you made sure to align the bumps when assembling the leg hinges, this will result in correct orientation of all legs.
*First place the end that matches the servo horn on about halfway. Make sure the servo horn slides under the little pocket at the end of recessed area that accepts the horn.
*Very slightly bend the U shaped piece while pulling the skate bearing side over the hemispherical bump on the other side of the servo holding area. It's a little easier to do the knees (servos mounted to legs) first, followed by the hips (servos on base).
*NOTE: It will be a tight fit, but it should not be excessively difficult to push the hinge over the bearing.
*When completed, double check to make sure the servo horn went into the covered pocket at the end of its recessed area. This pocket keeps the horn from slipping out of the hinge during stressful operations.

====STEP 9: Enclose the electronics modules in their caddies====

Now things look pretty messy with all those wires hanging loose, let's clean it up by stowing the Arduino Nano, Bluetooth module and Servo Driver in their caddies. The caddies will keep them safe by making sure they can't short out against each other or touch screws, etc.
* '''STEP 9A: Insert Caddy Bars''' Insert the electronics caddy bars as shown in the diagrams below. Notice carefully how they are inserted. Don't insert them upside down, the little hump should be facing inward toward the caddy. You may need to slightly squeeze the forked section at the end to work it into the hole. Once inside, it may be difficult to remove because it will snap into place, so be sure you're putting it in the right way.
<gallery mode=packed heights=300>
File:Insert-Caddy-Bar-1.jpg|Insertion of the caddy bar into the Nano caddy. Notice the orientation, don't put the bar in upside down. The same technique is used for the Servo Driver Caddy.
</gallery>
* '''STEP 9B: Insert the Arduino Nano into its caddy''' Carefully insert the Nano as shown, making sure you don't pull out any of the wires. You may need to wiggle the caddy bar from side to side a bit so that components can slide past it during insertion. Notice that the end of the Nano that has the USB port must go in last.

<gallery mode=packed heights=250>
File:Insert-Nano-In-Caddy-1.jpg|Insert the Nano in the orientation shown.
File:Insert-Nano-In-Caddy-2.jpg|You may need to wiggle it a bit or press on the bar to work it into place.
File:Insert-Nano-In-Caddy-3.jpg|Note how the USB port is accessible through the top after full insertion.
</gallery>

* '''STEP 9C: Insert the Servo Driver into its caddy''' Carefully insert the Servo Driver as shown, making sure you don't pull out any of the wires. You may need to wiggle the caddy bar from side to side a bit so that components can slide past it during insertion. Notice that the end of the Servo controller with wires sticking out of it must go in last.

<gallery mode=packed heights=200>
File:Insert-ServoDriver-In-Caddy-1.jpg|Insert the Servo Driver in the orientation shown.
File:Insert-ServoDriver-In-Caddy-2.jpg|You may need to wiggle it a bit or press on the bar to work it into place.
File:Insert-ServoDriver-In-Caddy-3.jpg|Note that the end with the wires goes in last.
</gallery>

* '''STEP 9D: Insert the HC05 Bluetooth Module''' The diagrams here do not show the wires to make them easier to visualize. The HC05 Bluetooth module with a name beginning with "S" should be used for the robot. For example, the label will read something like "VORP S2944" (the number will differ). The one marked "M" will be used for the gamepad. Slide the HC05 into the side drawer as shown. When inserting, be careful not to pull out the wires, which will be a little tight. Work the wires into the little space provided so they stay clear of the robot's cap when it gets screwed on later.

<gallery mode=packed heights=250>
File:Insert-HC05-in-Caddy-1.jpg|Insert the HC05 into the side drawer of the Nano Caddy as shown.
File:Insert-HC05-in-Caddy-2.jpg|When fully inserted, the indicator light will still be visible through the small oval.
File:Insert-HC05-in-Caddy-3.jpg|The wires should be tucked into the little cavity near the pins of the HC05.
</gallery>

====STEP 10: Power up!====
Make sure the on/off switch is off, and the knob is turned to STOP. Attach the proper batteries (a 9v recharageable NIMH or LI-ON, and an 8.4 volt 4000 or more mAh NIMH with XT60 connector) and power on the robot using the on/off switch. You should hear a beep, a pause, then a second beep. The servos should all twitch into position. If the robot does not move at all, immediately turn the switch off and check your connections again. If some of the servos don't move then gently push them with power off to see if you can free them up. If they still won't move, try pushing them with power applied, but turn off the power within 30 seconds if they're locked up. If you can't get the servo to move it will need to be replaced.

[[File:Servo-Horn-Orientation.png|thumb|right|The servo horn should come straight out from the body at a 90 degree angle as shown here. Do not turn the servo shaft by hand until after it has moved under power!]]

====STEP 11: Insert Servo Horns====
The servo horns are all at random-ish angles right now. In this step we'll make them point in the right direction. The knee servos are not at 90 degrees when the knob is all the way counter clockwise, rather they are at a 30 degree standing angle.

We need to get them to 90 degrees so its easy to align the servo horn, and this is done by going into "Adjust Mode". Turn the knob very slightly clockwise until you hear a beep, then stop. After about one second you will see all the knee servos twitch. This is "adjust servo horn mode". All servos (knees and hips) are now at their halfway point, 90 degrees.

Now you need to take each single arm servo horn and carefully insert it on the shaft so that it is sticking straight out as shown in the figure. You will not always be able to make the horn come totally straight out. This is because there are only 22 little groves (splines) in each shaft, meaning you can in general only come within about 8 degrees of being at a perfect 90 degree angle. This amount of error is acceptable for now, just get it as close as you can. Later we'll use Trim Mode to make fine adjustments.

====STEP 12: Test Knee Positions====
Turn the knob fully counter clockwise (to STOP) and the robot will go into "stand still" mode. Place it on a level surface such as a table top. Do all of the legs touch the ground? If one or more legs don't touch the ground, you need to adjust the servo horn on the knee a little bit so it does touch. Gently pull off the servo bracket. Pull the servo horn off, and put it back on just a little bit moved so the leg would move closer to the ground. Put the servo bracket back on, and see how it looks. Do this until all legs are at least slightly touching the ground. Again, you can't necessarily be perfect due to the 8 degree increments the servo horns can be moved. But you should be able to be close enough that all legs at least slightly touch the ground.

====STEP 13: Insert Servo Screws====
Now that the legs are adjusted, you can insert the M3x12 screws (with M3 lock washers) into the servo horns to lock them in place. Note that you will NOT be using the screws that were in the little bag the servos came in, you'll be using the separate pack of screws, which are longer than the ones in the servo bag. Do not overtighten these screws, as you could possibly crack the servo brackets. Just turn the screws until you start to feel resistance, then turn a quarter turn more and stop.

====STEP 14: Test the Servos====
*'''STEP 14A: Using TST Mode'''
**To test whether every servo is working, put the robot on something that will lift its legs off the table top, but won't interfere with the legs (a small box or stack of books will work).
**Start with the knob on STOP, then slowly turn it clockwise. You'll hear one beep (Adjust mode), then a second beep (Test mode). Stop turning and the robot will go into "individual servo test mode". In this mode, every hip servo will move, one by one. When all the hips have moved, every leg will move, one by one. You should see every servo move, in order. If some don't move, check your connections. A common error is to plug a servo connector into the servo controller backwards (i.e. the brown wire is matched with the yellow pin instead of the black pin). If the servos do not move in a sensible order, that probably means you plugged a couple of servos into the wrong sockets in the electrical harness.

*'''STEP 14B: Test Using Demo Mode'''
**Ok, everything looks good, so time for a full test. Turn the knob to STOP, then put the robot on the floor, somewhere that has at least a few feet of room in each direction. (Caution: it's tempting to do this on a table top, but unless you have a huge table this is not advisable, Max will run pretty fast at some points during the demo.)
**Turn the knob to DEMO, and about one second later the robot will go through a series of movements to demonstrate some of the things it can do. The full demo only takes about 30 seconds, then repeats. Here, you are looking for the robot to, for example, be able to get back up off the floor after doing some of its dance moves.
**If the robot struggles to get off the floor, you may have a battery that is not fully charged, or there may be drips or other obstructions stopping some legs from moving fully. See the [[Vorpal Combat_Hexapod Troubleshooting Guide|Trouble Shooting Guide]] for more information about different kinds of issues that can occur. That guide was written for the small robot, but most of the things that can go wrong with the Gigapod are similar to the things that can go wrong with Vorpal The Hexapod.

====STEP 15: Store electronics and wires in the Base====
Carefully stow the caddies into the base, using any available convenient space. NOTE: Unlike the small hexapod and megapod, the Gigapod saves weight by not having any service access covers. This makes it look messier when the top is off, but the savings in weight was necessary to avoid servo stress.
<gallery mode=packed heights=250>
File:All-Electronics-Inserted-In-Base.jpg|Carefully stow the caddies into the base, being careful not to pull out any wires.
</gallery>

====STEP 16: Assemble the Cap====
*'''STEP 16A: Assemble the Four Cap Parts'''
**First assemble the three large pieces after removing the support coming out of the center. Be aware that there is a correct ordering to them, the two flaps that stick out near the bottom need to be opposite each other so the cap can slot into the Base and lock in place. Use #6-32 x 1 inch screws plus nylox locking nuts to secure the three parts together as shown. There are access holes around the rim that allow the hex key to reach the screws. Use nuts and locking washers to secure the screws.
**Secure the top of the cap onto the bottom three pieces using three 1 inch #6 socket screws and their associated nylox locking nuts.
<gallery mode=packed heights=250>
File:Cap-Exploded.JPG|Arrangement of the four Cap parts. Note that this diagram shows the support in place, this should actually be removed prior to assembly.
File:CAP-Assembly-order.JPG|Make sure the two flaps at the rim are opposite each other when ordering the three main parts.
</gallery>
* '''STEP 16B: Put Hook-and-loop on Cap''' Peel and stick on the "hook" side of a 1" piece of hook-and-loop on each flat circular decoration holder on the cap.
* '''STEP 16C: Decorate''' If desired, use a permanent marker to color the Vorpal "V" on top of the Cap. Oil markers work well. On light colors of plastic a black permanent marker will also work.
* '''STEP 16D: Put Cap on the Hexapod'''
**Screw the cap on the robot by lining up the tabs with the matching slots in the rim of the base. Turn the cap clockwise to lock it in place. IMPORTANT: Do not press down on the robot to insert the cap when the robot is under power standing on its legs! You can damage the leg motors by doing this. It is best to turn the robot off, and either support the bottom of the Base with one hand and press the Cap on with the other, or set the Base down on the table top or floor with legs out to the sides so they don't take pressure.
**If the cap is too loose and swivels while the robot moves, this can be fixed by putting a bit of tape on the cap's flaps to make them a little thicker. The tightness of the cap depends a lot on printer settings, over- or under-extrusion, etc.

====STEP 17: Warning Label====
There are self-stick choking hazard warning labels and also several pinch point warning labels in the hexapod parts bag. Peel the backing off one choking hazard lable and place it on the bottom of the robot, near the center. Retain the second label for the gamepad. The pinch point warnings should be placed around the body of the robot, above the legs, in visible positions. Depending on what kind of plastic you're using, they might or might not stick well. If they don't stick, use glue (such as cyanoacrilate "super glue" or even hot glue) to secure them. The warning labels are not optional! They are necessary for safety. The motors are powerful and can snap your fingers like a twig, or cause severe pinch injuries, sprains, or bruises.

==== Step 18: Trimming the Servos ====
When you assembled the servo horns onto the servos, you probably were not able to get them all to come out exactly at a 90 degree angle. That's not your fault: the servo horns only have 22 possible positions in which they can be installed, so at best you can come within plus or minus 8 degrees of perfection.

Now that you have the gamepad working, you can make fine adjustments to the servo positions using "Trim Mode". In this special gamepad mode, you can adjust all the servos to within a fraction of a degree. These adjustments are saved in the robot's EEPROM, which is memory on the Nano that retains data even when powered off. So, you only need to trim once.

Complete instructions on how to use trim mode are in the wiki page: [[Vorpal The Hexapod Trim Mode Guide]]. That guide was written for the smaller robot, but the instructions are identical for the Gigapod.

NOTE: although this step is optional, it is strongly recommended because your robot will walk straighter and all the servos will share equally in lifting the robot's weight, which will make them last longer.

====Step 19: Assembling Eye Decorations====
Peel and stick a piece of "loop" from the supplied hook and loop fasteners on the back of the two eye pieces. This allows you to stick the eyes on the Cap's matching "hook" areas.

NOTE: There are extra hook and loop circles included in your kit. You can create your own attachments, nameplates, etc. using these.

==Electrical Connections: Robot==
Please note that our Gigapod kit comes prewired using our QuickBuild system. The notes in this section are for makers who self-source.

===NOTES ON JUMPER WIRES===

====Wire Lengths====
There are two different lengths of female-female Dupont jumper wires used to make most connections. The longer ones (20cm) are only used for the Hexapod's accessory port connections. The shorter ones are used for all the connections on the Gamepad and all the connections on the Hexapod between the Arduino Nano, Servo controller and Bluetooth module.

====Wire Color Conventions====

Please follow these conventions when selecting wire colors:
* For +5V, Vin, and similar positive voltage connections, use either RED or ORANGE.
* For GND and other negative electrical connections, use BLACK or BROWN.
* For the connectors that sit at the mouth of the accessory port (used for optional sensors) colors are suggested below in the instructions. By following these suggestions you will make your life easier when connecting sensors!
* For all other connections, you can use any color you want, it's arbitrary.

====If Jumper Wires Are Too Loose====
Sometimes you will find a wire whose connector does not grip the pin well enough. It might fall off very easily or just by gravity alone. If that happens, you have a few options:
* There are extra wires in your kit. If you find a wire that's too loose, just use a different wire.
* Using the hex key, you can put the jumper housing on a flat surface then press on the metal showing through the plastic connector, which will tighten up the jumper wire's grip. Don't go too overboard on pressing though or you might make it too hard to insert.
* Alternatively, you could use electrical tape after inserting all the wires on a module (such as the Nano) to effectively attach together all the little plastic female connector housings. In that way, the connectors that do grip will help hold in the ones that are too loose. Some people also like using hot glue for this purpose. (Personally, I don't like using hot glue, as it makes it harder to change connections if you hooked something up incorrectly.)

===NANO PIN CONNECTIONS===
[[File:Megapod-Nano-Connections-v1.JPG|thumb|600px|right|Diagram of Nano connections for the Hexapod. Jumpers marked AP are routed to the Accessory Port for use with add-ons like sensors. Click for larger image.]]
* ''Digital IO Pins:''
** D0, D1 are reserved because they are used for uploading programs to the robot, so nothing will be connected there.
** D2, D3 No connection.
** D4 Buzzer Signal (white wire)
** D5 through D13 No connection. These pins are reserved for future expansion.

* ''Analog Pins:''
** A0 Potentiometer signal (white wire)
** A1 Potentiometer Power (red wire)
** A2 Potentiometer Ground (black wire)
** A3 No connection.
** A4 Servo Controller SDA
** A5 Servo Controller SCL
** A6, A7 No connection.

* ''Power Pins:''
** +5V pin on Nano connects to any of the +5V RED wires coming from the BEC on the power distribution harness.
** GND pin on Nano connects to any of the GND BLACK wires coming from the BEC on the power distribution harness.

===Servo Driver Power Pins===
* Port 0 RED pin on the Servo Driver connects to any of the +5V RED wires coming from the BEC on the power distribution harness.
* Port 0 BLACK GND pin on the Servo Driver connects to any of the GND BLACK wires coming from the BEC on the power distribution harness.

=== Bluetooth Module Power ===
* +5V on HC05 connects to any RED Dupont connector coming off the BEC.
* GND on HC05 connects to any BLACK Dupont connector coming off the BEC.

=== Buzzer Power ===
* Plug the buzzer into the unused port 15 on the servo driver, making sure the red and black wires on the buzzer power match the red and black rows of pins on the servo driver.

=== Servo Driver ===
[[File:Megapod-ServoDriverConnections.jpg|thumb|600px|right|Diagram of Servo Controller pins you will use in this project. Each servo motor has a 3 wire connector that should be plugged into the corresponding servo number extension connector in the power distribution harness. The white wires coming out of the harness in groups of four should be connected to the yellow line or ports, matching the number ranges to port numbers. Note that the black and red rows of pins are not used, power is provided to the servos through the power distribution harness. Click for larger image.]]
* Connect the 12 servos to power distribution harness connectors marked with port numbers corresponding to the servo marking (0 to 11). Make sure the signal wire (yellow) is oriented correctly and matches the yellow plastic header pin.
* Connect the groups of four white wires which are marked with servo port numbers to the Servo Driver yellow pins, matching the Servo Driver pin number to the port numbers written on the 4-pin Dupont connectors coming out of the power distribution harness.
* Connect one of the +5V RED regulated BEC outputs to the RED port 0 pin of the Servo Driver. Connect one of the GND black pins coming out of the BEC to the BLACK port 0 GND pin on the Servo Driver.
* On one short side of the Servo Controller you will find a VCC and V+ pin right next to each other. Use a shunt (small black connector that goes over two pins) to connect those together if one is not already installed. Without this shunt the Servo Driver will not work.
* SDA and SCL go to A4 and A5 on the Nano, respectively.



== Building the Gamepad ==
The gamepad for Gidget the Gigapod is identical to the Gamepad for Vorpal The Hexapod (and also Max the Megapod).

Please see instructions on [[Vorpal_The_Hexapod_Building_Instructions#Building_the_Gamepadd|the Vorpal Hexapod Gamepad Assembly instructions]].

{{Gigapod Quick Links}}

Gidget The Gigapod Assembly Instructions

2021-03-19T21:04:01Z

Vorpalwiki: /* Electrical Connections: Robot */

==LIMITED AVAILABILITY==

Our kits for this project are special order at this time. Allow two weeks for us to ship. Because the parts are relatively heavy, shipping to areas outside the USA is expensive. For makers outside the USA, you may want to try to acquire the parts locally. But beware of subsitutions! Walking robots have very precise requirements and any substitutions of parts may cause the project not to function as expected.

Warning: The 3D printed parts for this project consume a lot of plastic and the print (on our own printers) is over 200 hours for all the parts. (It's not 200 hours straight, it's multiple print jobs each running 6 to 16 hours.) You shouldn't attempt this unless you're prepared for long print times and your printer is well tuned to make failures rare.

NEW: our Megapod and Gigapod kits are now standard with the "Quickbuild" electrical system. This cuts over an hour off the build time.

==Gidget The Gigapod Construction==
[[File:Giga-Mega-Hexa-Stacked.jpg|right|thumb|Gigapod, Megapod, Hexapod relative sizes]]
Gidget The Gigapod is a very large, 3d printed, hexapod robot. This page gives complete instructions for building this project. If you are new to 3d printing, you probably don't want to start with this one, though. Please consider our smaller [[Vorpal The Hexapod]] project instead.
==BILL OF MATERIALS (BOM) FOR GIDGET THE GIGAPOD==
===Notes on Sourcing Parts Yourself===
* These instructions assume you have purchased a kit from us (kits are currently a special order item). If you are sourcing your own parts, please be aware of the following additional information:
**If you are sourcing your own parts, you need to build the power distribution connector assembly. This is identical to the power distribution system for [[Max The Megapod]]. For diagrams see [[Max The Megapod Battery/Switch Construction]] except that it uses an XT60 connector instead of Tamaya for the large battery, and it uses a 30 amp fuse instead of a 15 amp fuse. This will take about 2 hours of soldering and labelling work.
**Also see important information on that page if you are sourcing your own BEC.
**If you are sourcing your own Bluetooth modules, please be aware that you will need to configure them to auto-pair and to have a UART speed of 38400 BAUD. Every module brand's firmware is a bit different so it's not possible for us to give you universal instructions on how to program them. We assume that if you source your own parts you are familiar with how to configure Bluetooth modules using AT-commands. (You can find tutorials online or videos on youtube, but like we said, different modules may not exactly match instructions you will find so be prepared to fiddle around a bit). Please do not ask our customer support for help on this topic. We sell pre-configured modules that auto-pair on boot for a very reasonable price.
**If you are sourcing your own Arduino Nano modules, you will need to flash the robot and gamepad code on them. You can find the latest stable release of code at the [https://tinyurl.com/VORPALFILES Vorpal Hexapod Public Dropbox folder]. The source code tree is posted in our github repository, but the top of that tree may not be stable. Note: there is currently no difference in software between the large and small versions of the hexapod other than a single #define called HEXSIZE. For the gigapod, this should be set to 2.
* Please be very careful about substitutions. You might think you can substitute cheaper parts for the ones specified here. Don't bet on it. Walking robots are extremely difficult to design, and we've chosen each part for a good reason. For example, if you try to substitute cheaper servos you are very likely to find that they don't provide enough torque for the robot to stand up, or they burn out within minutes due to being over-stressed. If you substitute a different battery voltage, you'll either fry the servos or they won't have enough torque. It took 1,000 hours of work to design the smaller hexapod on which this one is based, then another 500 hours of redesign, testing, and tuning to get the big version working well. If you want to try substitutions, okay, but please don't expect it to work without many hours of adjustments and testing.
* Full kits of parts as well as individual parts will be available on [http://store.vorpalrobotics.com The Vorpal Robotics Store]. If you are new to Arduino and robotics we strongly recommend you purchase a kit instead of trying to self-source parts (and truthfully, if you're not experienced with this kind of project you really should build the smaller [[Vorpal The Hexapod]] kit first. NOTE: kits will not be available until approximately Fall 2020 due to delays in getting parts from China due to the virus pandemic.
* Our kits cut 4 to 5 hours off the build time, bringing it to typically 2 to 3 or so hours. The kits have all soldering done, programs are already loaded on the Nanos, Bluetooth modules are properly configured, and you know you have all the right parts to work together. About half the people who self-source parts end up buying parts that are incorrect or are so cheap that they will quickly fail (and they end up spending more money and far more time than if they had simply bought a kit to start with!)

=== ROBOT BOM ===
[[File:Choking-Hazard-Image.jpg|right|350px]]
[[File:PinchPoint-Warning.JPG|right|350px]]

* ''Electronics:''
** Passive Piezo Buzzer module and 3 wire cable (see image) [[File:Passive-Piezo-Buzzer-Module.jpg|right|thumb|Passive Piezo Buzzer Module]]
** Arduino Nano, 5V, 16 mHz, ATMEGA328 or similar (marked RM in our kit to indicate it is pre-loaded with Gigapod robot software)
** Rotary potentiometer, 10K Ohms, 6mm shaft diameter, with 3 wires pre-soldered. Also, matching dial cap and nut. If you are self-sourcing see our instructions: [[Max The Megapod Battery/Switch Construction]]
** 1 x HC05 BlueTooth Module with F-F jumper wires for making connections (our kit electronics are pre-wired for you)
** 1 x Servo Controller module (Adafruit 16-channel 12-bit I2C PWM/Servo driver or Adafruit clone) with F-F jumper wires for making connections, plus 1 two-pin shunt tying V+ to VCC
** 12 x DS5160 SSG 180 degree, 60 kg-cm torque servo motors with metal servo horns. Be sure you order the 180 degree version, these servos also come in a 270 degree version.
** 1 x Power distribution wiring harness with DPST on/off switch, Fuse, XT60 battery connector, 3A 5V BEC, and servo extension connectors. If you are self-sourcing see our wiring instructions: [[Max The Megapod Battery/Switch Construction|Circuit Diagrams]]. (The battery/switch circuit for the Gigapod is identical to that of the Megapod except it uses an XT60 connector for the large battery and it uses a 30 amp fuse instead of a 15 amp fuse.)
* ''3D Printed Parts:''
** 6 Robot Base Parts and bottom plate to hold the parts together.
** 4 Cap parts which screw together to form the cap of the robot.
** 6 x Legs
** 6 x Feet that will be assembled with wheels.
** 6 x TPU Boots to provide better traction. These should be printed in TPU or other flexible plastics so they absorb some impact during walking.
** 12 x Servo Stops. These parts hold the servos in their compartments both in the base and the legs.
** 12 x Servo Bearing Pegs. These insert into the servo compartments and provide a secure place for the bearings to sit.
** 12 x Leg Hinge halves with Leg Hinge Rings. The rings stop layer separation issues under stress.
** 1 x Electronics Caddy to hold Arduino Nano
** 1 x Electronics Caddy to hold the Servo Driver
** 2 x Eye/glasses Decoration
** 8 x 1 inch diameter hook-and-loop self stick circles to attach of eyes and other decorations
* ''Screws and Fasteners''
** 12 x Nylon bolts 1/4-20 x 2" long. These can be partially threaded. Note that it is important for these to be made of nylon for weight savings. These are used to secure servos in place using the servo stopper part.
** 12 x M3x20mm button head screws (with matching flat washers and external tooth washers) to secure servo arms to servo through the screw hole in the hinge.
** 6 x #6-32 x 1.75" long cap screws plus nuts to attach boots onto the end of the leg
** 6 x #6-32 x 1" long cap screws plus nuts to provide axles for the boot wheels.
** 6 x 1/4-20 x 1.25" long cap screw plus nylox locking nuts for holding the BASE parts together
** 6 x 1/4-20 x 3/4" long cap screw plus nylox locking nuts for holding the BOTTOM onto the BASE assembly
** 6 x #6-32 cap screws plus nylox locking nuts for holding the CAP and CAP TOPPER parts together
** 6 x #6-32 cap screws plus nylox locking nuts for holding the LEG HINGES together. Note that the smaller versions of the robot depend on a snap-together system to hold the hinges together, but the larger Gigapod requires a screw through the center hole to ensure the hinges remain together.
** If you are self-sourcing and building your own electrical system, you will also need 10 x #6-32 x 1/2" screws to hold the power distribution plastic covers together. If you buy our kit, these are already installed on the wiring harness.
* ''Miscellaneous Mechanical Parts:''
** 12 x 6202ZZ Double Metal Seal Bearings 15x35x11mm for leg hinges
** 12 x 608zz Skate Bearings with nylon coated wheel, dimensions: 27.5mm diameter wheel, 8mm inner diameter on bearing, 8mm wide.
* ''Tools Required (Not included in kit)''
** Hex drivers for the various sized bolts and screws.
** Needle nose pliers are useful for holding the nuts while assembling BASE and CAP parts.
** 3 x Pinch Point Stickers. Place these around the robot Base to warn onlookers not to touch the robot. Some kinds of plastic may not stick well to the adhesive, you may need to secure with hot glue or superglue or similar.
* ''Batteries and Chargers''
** The Gigapod uses a 4200 mAH (a little more is okay but don't go too high due to weight considerations) 7-cell NIMH battery (8.4 Volts) with male XT60 connector and compatible charger, such as: [https://www.batteryspace.com/nimhbatterypack84v4200mahhumpbatterypacksforrctraxxasandlosietc.aspx BatterySpace 42000 mAH 8.4 V NIMH] (We use that one for demos with the 14 gauge wire option, and we solder on an XT60 male connector in-house. You get about 30 minutes of run time with this battery.)
**The Gigapod also requires one 9v battery, we recommend NIMH or LI-ON rechargeable with compatible charger.
** The gamepad takes any kind of standard 9v rectangular batter, either rechargeable or disposable work fine. These are commonly available from many sources. We recommend rechargeable NIMH or LI-ON 9v batteries with compatible charger.
** Note that we do not provide batteries or chargers with our kits due to licenses required to ship batteries.
NOTE ON BATTERY SAFETY: Never leave batteries in the Gigapod or gamepad after use. If either one gets turned on accidentally, overdraining the battery may damage or destroy it. As soon as the Gigapod has trouble moving or sags under its own weight, immediately stop and replace with fresh batteries.

=== GAMEPAD BOM AND ASSEMBLY ===
The gamepad for Gidget the Gigapod is identical to the gamepad for Vorpal The Hexapod. See instructions for the gamepad here: [[Vorpal_The_Hexapod_Building_Instructions#Building_the_Gamepadd|Vorpal The Hexapod Gamepad Assembly instructions]]

==Printing the Plastic Parts==

This section assumes you have basic familiarity with 3D printing and 3D printing terminology. If not, you might want to reference online materials such as youtube videos or information from your 3D printer manufacturer before attempting this project.

Please note: it takes over 200 hours to print this project. This is not a project for the faint of heart, or for people who are not experienced in 3d printing and have not tuned and maintained their printers. If you are a beginner at 3d printing, we strongly recommend that you start with our smaller [[Vorpal the Hexapod]] project. It's a 16 hour print, requires a lot less bridging, and less than a tenth as much practice.

===OBTAINING THE STL FILES===
We have posted the STL files to [http://www.thingiverse.com Thingiverse]. Search for "Gidget the Gigapod" and they should pop right up.

Please help us by rating the Gidget the Gigapod project (or clicking on the LIKE button, COLLECT button, etc.)!

Please post your builds to places like Thingiverse, pictures to FaceBook, Instagram, etc., and videos of your robot to YouTube! This will help us grow and continue having the resources creating cool new projects for our community.

===MINIMUM PRINTER REQUIREMENTS===
*The bed size should be at least 275mm cube (about 11 inches cube). The largest parts are the six Base and the 3 Cap parts in the x and y directions, and in the Z direction the Leg is largest, so these are the limiting factor on bed size.
* For almost all parts, we recommend PLA PRO plastic (or similiar enhanced PLA plastics that may go under other names like PLA+). These are large parts and so PLA is preferred due it being resistant to warping.
* The boots part is best made of TPU plastic, or similar flexible plastics, to reduce the impact of walking on floors.
===AMOUNT OF PLASTIC FILAMENT===
* About 6 to 7 kg of PLA plastic are needed to print the entire robot and gamepad, assuming no print failures.
* About 200 grams of TPU (or similar flexible plastic) are needed to print the wheels. It is possible to print the wheels out of harder plastics but in that case they might scratch wooden floors, so we suggest TPU or some other flexible, soft plastic.
* The amount of plastic used does depend on plastic type and exact print settings though, so your mileage may vary.

===RECOMMENDED PLASTICS===
*ABS, PETG, and PLA all work well. However, because there are some very large parts, ABS may cause you some warping issues if you don't have a heated bed, enclosure, and a printer tuned well for large parts. PLA is generally easier and has fewer issues with corners peeling off the print bed.
*We use eSun PLA PRO for this project and for us it works very well. PLA PRO is a little more flexible and stronger than typical PLA. We have no problems with warping even on the largest parts.
*For the boots, we used Sainsmart TPU and it works very well. Other flexible plastics would probably also be fine.
*This project requires less flexibility than the smaller Vorpal The Hexapod project, so ABS is not at all required for this project.
===PRINTING TIPS===
This project has been finely tuned to make it easy to 3D print. No additional supports are required for any of the parts (there is a support built into the models for the CAP parts and there are tiny supports built into the hinge parts). In some cases you may want to use brims or rafts to help parts adhere to the print surface. These are large, long prints so using a brim for a little added safety is probably prudent.

There is some significant bridging with some spans up to 45mm (1.8"). It is important to tune your printer and make sure it can handle the bridging before attempting the large parts. A little sagging is ok and a drip or two can be easily removed, but you need decent ability to bridge. There are bridge testing and calibration models posted on sites like Thingiverse that may help you tune your printer before trying the big parts. There are numerous "3d printing tips" type postings on the internet that make suggestions for how to tune for features like bridging.

====PRINT SETTINGS====
We print using the following settings on a Lulzbot TAZ 6 with 0.5mm nozzle:
* 0.4 layer thickness (or whatever layer thickness is the largest that will work on your printer)
* 2mm walls (i.e. four perimeters for a 0.5mm nozzle)
* 1.6 mm top and bottom (i.e. four layers at 0.4mm layer height)
* 25% infill
* You can print with thinner layers if your printer does not support 0.4mm layers or if you want a more refined look, it will just take longer. If you have a large nozzle (0.8mm or more) you should be able to go with bigger layers and save a lot of print time. Please report your findings to us at support@vorpalrobotics.com so we can advise future Makers of this project.

====POST PRINT====
Other than removing brims/rafts, cap and hinge built in supports, and the occasional drip, there is not any special post-processing required after printing. Some of the big bridges might seem a little saggy but generally speaking there's enough tolerance that this won't cause an issue. The biggest bridges are mostly hidden inside the robot so they won't affect cosmetics.

====PRO TIPS====
*Do routine maintenance on your printer before printing the big parts: lubricate rods and lead screws, check bed leveling, replace nozzle if worn, do a calibration print, clean your print surface, etc. A few minutes of preparation will help you nail these prints and make a project you can be very proud of!
*Print the large parts (Base, Cap) at the ''start'' of new spools. The last thing you want is to run out of filament 95% of the way through a big part.
*Print the smallest parts (servo stops, hinge rings, Leg pegs, gamepad drawer) near the end of a spool.
*If you have a large format printer, it is tempting to kick off several large parts at once and let it run overnight. We would recommend against that--the chances of killing an entire spool of filament due to an overnight power hit or other failure is just not worth it. Take your time, do the big parts one by one. One or two during the day, one overnight. It will all get done soon enough. An extra few days won't matter in the long run.

== Building the Robot ==

You will need the following tools:
*Included in the kit:
** 2mm hex key. A 5/64 inch hex key will also work. This is in the Gigapod Parts bag.
** 7/64 hex key at least 6" long (150mm). It needs to be long enough to reach screws through access holes in the Base and Cap. This is in the Gigapod Parts Bag.
*Not included in the kit:
** Optional: A marker that can write on dark plastic and still be seen, such as Sharpie Metallic or Sharpie Oil markers (white and yellow work great on dark colored plastic, black or blue work well on light colored plastic). This can be used to make raised lettering on the robot and gamepad more visible.
** Optional: Needle nose pliers can be helpful for holding nuts in place while tightening screws.
** Optional: Slip-joint pliers can be helpful for forcing the skate bearings into their press-fit locations on the Leg Hinges

===IMPORTANT WARNING: POWERFUL SERVOS MAY INJURE YOU===
The motors on Gidget the Gigapod are very powerful compared to the smaller Vorpal the Hexapod (or even Max the Megapod) projects. It is possible for the leg motions to pinch fingers or even possibly break fingers or cause other injuries, possibly severe. When powering on the Gigapod you must keep fingers clear of places where the legs/hips can come together. You should mount the included "Pinch Point" stickers around the Base of the robot to warn others. During public demonstrations, keep adults and especially children away from the robot when it's operating. Little kids will definitely try to touch the robot and could be injured, keep them at a safe distance. In case of electrical issues the legs may move unexpectedly. Turning the power off will release the motors. Never carry the Gigapod when it's powered on. For safety, I disconnect the battery when transporting, just to prevent the possibility that the power switch will get hit accidentally.

If the robot is moving in an out of control manner, use a pencil, book, or rod to hit the power switch from a safe distance. The switch is large and easy to turn off.

You must at all times take standard precautions that are typical with large robotic projects.

If you are building your own electrical system please do not skimp by skipping adding the fuse to the circuit. This project may draw significant amperage and fuse protection is required.

===Step by Step Instructions===
PLEASE NOTE: These instructions are currently in draft state, and I've used diagrams from Max the Megapod here temporarily. The construction is very similar, although you will note some discrepancies such as the BASE for the Megapod comes in 3 parts while in the Gigapod it comes in 6 parts. Still, the construction is analogous. I'll be replacing diagrams for the parts that are not the same first.

====STEP 1: Build the BASE====
* STEP 1A: Take the six outer parts of the base (STL files: Base-1, Base-2, ... Base-6) and arrange them to form the "bowl" of the base. Make sure the servo numbers are in the right order as you move clockwise around the six parts! It's possible to assemble them in the wrong order if you don't check.
* STEP 1B: There are matching screw holes positioned on little rectangular outcroppings on the inside of the top ring, these require screws to bind the three parts together. Use six 1/4-20 by 1.25 inch socket head screws, toothed lock washers, and nuts to secure them. There is an access hole in the rim of the robot to allow the hex key to turn the screw. You may need to hold the nut in place using needle-nose pliers. Repeat for all six sections.
<gallery mode=packed heights=250>
File:Base-Exploded-View.JPG|Line up the six main pieces of the base, ensuring the servo numbers are in order.
File:Access-Hole-In-Base.jpg|Small access holes are strategically placed around the base so the hex key can turn the screws to secure the three base pieces.
File:Securing-Base-Sections.jpg|Use the access hole in the Base parts to secure screws that bind the three base parts together.
File:Megapod-Foam-Squares.jpg|Peel the backing off the foam squares that came with the kit and attach them to the bottom of the base. Stack them on top of each other.
</gallery>
* STEP 1C: Take the Base Bottom part and place it inside the base. There is a nub in one place that will only allow it to be inserted in one orientation. Use six 1/4-20 by 3/4 inch screws with nuts and lock washers in the outer ring of holes in the bottom to secure it to the base. The head of the screw should be on the outside of the robot and nuts should secure the screws on the inside.
* STEP 1D: Take the foam squares that came in your kit and stick them on the bottom of the robot, reasonably centered. These foam pads will reduce the shock and stress on the robot when it goes down to the floor on certain dance moves. Without these pads, the robot leg servos and body structure may undergo too much stress.

====STEP 2: Install the electrical system in the base====
* STEP 2A: Take the potentiometer and remove its dial cap, then unscrew the nut and set these items aside for now (don't lose them). Push the potentiometer shaft from the inside of the chassis into the hole that is surrounded by the markings "STOP", "TST", etc. The wires coming out of the potentiometer should be pointing down. The little metal nub sticking out of the potentiometer should match with a tiny rectangular hole that is near the marking "TST". Put the retaining nut on the potentiometer, hand tighten first and then give it just another half turn or so with pliers if desired. Turn the knob all the way counter-clockwise, then insert the knob so it points to the letter "O" in the word "STOP".
* STEP 2B: Take the large DPST on/off switch (which is attached to the battery holder and power distribution assembly) and thread the switch wires from the inside through the gap at the bottom of the switch hole (see picture). Carefully push the wires one by one through the slot below the switch hole. Once all the wires are through, push the switch into the switch hole. It should be oriented with the "1" to the right. Press carefully into the hole, it should snap firmly in place.
** If the fit is too tight to get the switch in place, lightly sanding or filing the hole to make it a tiny bit larger should work.
<gallery mode=packed heights=200>
File:Switch-Insert-1.jpg|Thread the switch and its wires through the Base, there is an opening under the switch hole.
File:Switch-Insert-2.jpg|Bring the wires up through the small gap below the switch hole. Be careful with the large wires, they require some pressure or some flexing of the plastic to get through.
File:Switch-Insert-3.jpg|All the wires are now coming through the switch hole.
File:Switch-Insert-4.jpg|Press the switch into the hole, it should snap into place. The "1" should be to the right.
</gallery>

====STEP 3: Insert servos in the chassis====
* Next, insert the servo into the chassis as shown in the diagrams. As you insert the servo into the chassis, slowly press it straight into place until it fully seats. Use a servo stopper and one 1/4-20 by 2 inch nylon hex bolts to secure the servos in place. The nylon bolts should retain in the holes even though there are no threads and no nut used. If you find them working themselves loose, you could wrap a bit of electrical tape around the end of the screw to make the fit tighter.
<gallery mode=packed heights=250>
File:Servo-in-Base-2.jpg|Insert each servo with the wire coming out away from the robot as shown here. Press in completely.
File:Servo-in-Base-3.jpg|Insert a servo stopper (shown in red) and secure with nylong bolt. Thread the wire into the body of the robot through the hole as shown.
</gallery>

====STEP 4: Build the Legs====
=====STEP 4A: Assemble Boot and Wheel=====
Because of the large size of the Gigapod, the leg is assembled using several parts (whereas it is a single part with the smaller hexapod designs). The extra part that is attached at the tip of the main leg piece is called the boot. Each boot is tipped by a TPU wheel. This reduces friction when the robot needs to stand, but provides traction when legs move laterally to walk. The TPU wheel is secured by a #6-32 x 1 inch screw, lock washer, and nut as shown in the diagram below. The entire boot/wheel assembly is attached to the main leg using two bushings, one of which has a hex-shaped indentation to retain a #6-32 nut.
<gallery mode=packed heights=350>
File:Gigapod-Leg-Assembly-Wheel-Boot.PNG|Parts for Boot and Wheel. The boot goes over the main leg and is secured with two leg bushings and a #6-32 1" screw, nut, and lock washer. The wheel is attached between two wheel bushings and is secured with a #6-32 x 1" screw, lock washer, and nut.
File:Gigapod-Leg-Assembly-Bearing-Peg.PNG|Insert Bearing Peg (red). The servo will lock it in place, there are no screws required.
</gallery>

=====STEP 4B: Insert Servos in Legs=====
The technique is very similar to inserting the servo into the chassis.
*Insert the servo straight into the leg socket so that the wire is coming out of the servo facing away from the plastic leg and the face of the servo with the shaft and servo horn goes into the open faced side of the leg, as shown in the diagram.
*Secure the servo in place with a servo stopper and one 2 inch nylong bolt as you did with the hip servos in the base.
*The servos in the legs are called the "knee" servos. Each leg has a higher number on it, this is the knee number, they run from 6 to 11. Again, write this number on the black connector at the end of the servo wire. PRO TIP: For 6 and 9, underline the number so you don't read them upside down!
*Cut a 12 inch length of braided wire covering. Seal the threads at the end using a lighter for a couple seconds to melt them. Be careful not to set on fire. Thread the knee servo wires through the braided wire covering. This will help protect the servo wires, and also makes the robot look better. You may need to use electrical tape or a zip tie to secure the end of the braided covering to the end of the servo wire where it comes out of the servo.
<gallery mode=packed heights=200>
File:Servo-Insert-Leg-v2.png|Insert Servos in Legs
File:Servo-Leg-Inserted-v2.png|Push until fully seated
File:Servo-Stopper-In-Leg.jpg|Use the servo stopper and two screws to lock the servo in place
</gallery>

*Thread each leg servo wire (with braided covering) into the bottom wire guide slot on the chassis. Each leg servo should be matched with a hip servo plus 6. The legs are marked with the hip number near the top and the knee number below that. For example, the leg marked 6 should be threaded through the wire guide on hip servo 0, leg 7 goes with hip 1, leg 8 goes with hip 2, etc. Add 6 to the hip number to get the leg number.

====STEP 5: Plug in the Servos====
Thread the servo wires into the chassis using the routing holes, as you did with the hip servos. The power distribution harness has marked servo extension sockets for each servo. Each hip servo is marked on the BASE showing its number. the knee servo for each hip is numbered six higher than its corresponding hip. For example, hip servo number 3 will be attached to knee servo number 9, because 3+6=9.

When plugging the servos in, make sure you match the light yellow servo wire to the white servo extension wire, and the dark brown servo wire should match with the black servo extension wire.

====STEP 6: Make Robot Electrical Connections====

If you are self-sourcing, use the diagram below in the electrical section to make the rest of the robot's electrical connections. You'll be using the Robot Arduino Nano (marked "R"), the Servo Driver, Bluetooth Module marked "S", the buzzer, and a bunch of jumper wires. Make sure you use the longer jumper wires for the SDA and SCL connections between the Nano and the Servo Driver.
If you bought a kit from us, all connections are already made, other than plugging the servos into the marked servo extension connectors.

====STEP 7: Assemble the leg hinges====
[[File:Servo-Bracket-Alignment-v1.png|thumb|350px|right|Align the leg hinges as shown here. The bumps (see arrows) should both be near each other when properly aligned. Hold one in each hand with the ends of the U shape between thumb and forefinger.]]
Each leg hinge is composed of two identical U-shaped parts. Take one in each hand and align the two so that the bump (shown in the diagram at the right) are both near each other. Turn one 90 degrees with respect to the other.
*Gently squeeze each piece between thumb and forefinger, which causes the little jaws in the center to open up slightly. Work the two halves together. Keep squeezing harder until the ends slide into place.
*If you used PLA and are finding it hard to bend, briefly soaking the pieces in very hot tap water has been reported to make it easier. Take care not to scald yourself, the water does not have to be boiling, just hot from the tap. You only need to dip the ends that will lock over each other, not the parts you will squeeze. Use caution.
*At this stage, you may notice that the parts are loosely clamped on each other (this depends on plastic used and whether your printer over- or under-extrudes). Don't worry! When you place the leg hinges over a servo, the servo will spread it apart and they will lock together more tightly.
* Use a #6-32 1" screw and matching nut through the center hole of the two joined leg hinges to secure the hinges further. (This is necessary because the gigapod's hinges are under much more stress than in the megapod or hexapod.)
*Insert a 6202ZZ bearing into the socket on one side of the leg hinges. Pliers may be necessary to press them into place. Make sure you clean up any drips inside the recessed area for the skate bearing before attempting to insert the bearings. If you have a lot of trouble getting them in, you could heat up that part of the hinge in hot tap water to soften the plastic, or use a butane lighter (carefully! don't stop moving it) to soften the plastic before inserting the bearing.

====STEP 8: Attach Leg Hinges====
The leg hinges connect the hips to the knees. They only go on one way. If you made sure to align the bumps when assembling the leg hinges, this will result in correct orientation of all legs.
*First place the end that matches the servo horn on about halfway. Make sure the servo horn slides under the little pocket at the end of recessed area that accepts the horn.
*Very slightly bend the U shaped piece while pulling the skate bearing side over the hemispherical bump on the other side of the servo holding area. It's a little easier to do the knees (servos mounted to legs) first, followed by the hips (servos on base).
*NOTE: It will be a tight fit, but it should not be excessively difficult to push the hinge over the bearing.
*When completed, double check to make sure the servo horn went into the covered pocket at the end of its recessed area. This pocket keeps the horn from slipping out of the hinge during stressful operations.

====STEP 9: Enclose the electronics modules in their caddies====

Now things look pretty messy with all those wires hanging loose, let's clean it up by stowing the Arduino Nano, Bluetooth module and Servo Driver in their caddies. The caddies will keep them safe by making sure they can't short out against each other or touch screws, etc.
* '''STEP 9A: Insert Caddy Bars''' Insert the electronics caddy bars as shown in the diagrams below. Notice carefully how they are inserted. Don't insert them upside down, the little hump should be facing inward toward the caddy. You may need to slightly squeeze the forked section at the end to work it into the hole. Once inside, it may be difficult to remove because it will snap into place, so be sure you're putting it in the right way.
<gallery mode=packed heights=300>
File:Insert-Caddy-Bar-1.jpg|Insertion of the caddy bar into the Nano caddy. Notice the orientation, don't put the bar in upside down. The same technique is used for the Servo Driver Caddy.
</gallery>
* '''STEP 9B: Insert the Arduino Nano into its caddy''' Carefully insert the Nano as shown, making sure you don't pull out any of the wires. You may need to wiggle the caddy bar from side to side a bit so that components can slide past it during insertion. Notice that the end of the Nano that has the USB port must go in last.

<gallery mode=packed heights=250>
File:Insert-Nano-In-Caddy-1.jpg|Insert the Nano in the orientation shown.
File:Insert-Nano-In-Caddy-2.jpg|You may need to wiggle it a bit or press on the bar to work it into place.
File:Insert-Nano-In-Caddy-3.jpg|Note how the USB port is accessible through the top after full insertion.
</gallery>

* '''STEP 9C: Insert the Servo Driver into its caddy''' Carefully insert the Servo Driver as shown, making sure you don't pull out any of the wires. You may need to wiggle the caddy bar from side to side a bit so that components can slide past it during insertion. Notice that the end of the Servo controller with wires sticking out of it must go in last.

<gallery mode=packed heights=200>
File:Insert-ServoDriver-In-Caddy-1.jpg|Insert the Servo Driver in the orientation shown.
File:Insert-ServoDriver-In-Caddy-2.jpg|You may need to wiggle it a bit or press on the bar to work it into place.
File:Insert-ServoDriver-In-Caddy-3.jpg|Note that the end with the wires goes in last.
</gallery>

* '''STEP 9D: Insert the HC05 Bluetooth Module''' The diagrams here do not show the wires to make them easier to visualize. The HC05 Bluetooth module with a name beginning with "S" should be used for the robot. For example, the label will read something like "VORP S2944" (the number will differ). The one marked "M" will be used for the gamepad. Slide the HC05 into the side drawer as shown. When inserting, be careful not to pull out the wires, which will be a little tight. Work the wires into the little space provided so they stay clear of the robot's cap when it gets screwed on later.

<gallery mode=packed heights=250>
File:Insert-HC05-in-Caddy-1.jpg|Insert the HC05 into the side drawer of the Nano Caddy as shown.
File:Insert-HC05-in-Caddy-2.jpg|When fully inserted, the indicator light will still be visible through the small oval.
File:Insert-HC05-in-Caddy-3.jpg|The wires should be tucked into the little cavity near the pins of the HC05.
</gallery>

====STEP 10: Power up!====
Make sure the on/off switch is off, and the knob is turned to STOP. Attach the proper batteries (a 9v recharageable NIMH or LI-ON, and an 8.4 volt 4000 or more mAh NIMH with XT60 connector) and power on the robot using the on/off switch. You should hear a beep, a pause, then a second beep. The servos should all twitch into position. If the robot does not move at all, immediately turn the switch off and check your connections again. If some of the servos don't move then gently push them with power off to see if you can free them up. If they still won't move, try pushing them with power applied, but turn off the power within 30 seconds if they're locked up. If you can't get the servo to move it will need to be replaced.

[[File:Servo-Horn-Orientation.png|thumb|right|The servo horn should come straight out from the body at a 90 degree angle as shown here. Do not turn the servo shaft by hand until after it has moved under power!]]

====STEP 11: Insert Servo Horns====
The servo horns are all at random-ish angles right now. In this step we'll make them point in the right direction. The knee servos are not at 90 degrees when the knob is all the way counter clockwise, rather they are at a 30 degree standing angle.

We need to get them to 90 degrees so its easy to align the servo horn, and this is done by going into "Adjust Mode". Turn the knob very slightly clockwise until you hear a beep, then stop. After about one second you will see all the knee servos twitch. This is "adjust servo horn mode". All servos (knees and hips) are now at their halfway point, 90 degrees.

Now you need to take each single arm servo horn and carefully insert it on the shaft so that it is sticking straight out as shown in the figure. You will not always be able to make the horn come totally straight out. This is because there are only 22 little groves (splines) in each shaft, meaning you can in general only come within about 8 degrees of being at a perfect 90 degree angle. This amount of error is acceptable for now, just get it as close as you can. Later we'll use Trim Mode to make fine adjustments.

====STEP 12: Test Knee Positions====
Turn the knob fully counter clockwise (to STOP) and the robot will go into "stand still" mode. Place it on a level surface such as a table top. Do all of the legs touch the ground? If one or more legs don't touch the ground, you need to adjust the servo horn on the knee a little bit so it does touch. Gently pull off the servo bracket. Pull the servo horn off, and put it back on just a little bit moved so the leg would move closer to the ground. Put the servo bracket back on, and see how it looks. Do this until all legs are at least slightly touching the ground. Again, you can't necessarily be perfect due to the 8 degree increments the servo horns can be moved. But you should be able to be close enough that all legs at least slightly touch the ground.

====STEP 13: Insert Servo Screws====
Now that the legs are adjusted, you can insert the M3x12 screws (with M3 lock washers) into the servo horns to lock them in place. Note that you will NOT be using the screws that were in the little bag the servos came in, you'll be using the separate pack of screws, which are longer than the ones in the servo bag. Do not overtighten these screws, as you could possibly crack the servo brackets. Just turn the screws until you start to feel resistance, then turn a quarter turn more and stop.

====STEP 14: Test the Servos====
*'''STEP 14A: Using TST Mode'''
**To test whether every servo is working, put the robot on something that will lift its legs off the table top, but won't interfere with the legs (a small box or stack of books will work).
**Start with the knob on STOP, then slowly turn it clockwise. You'll hear one beep (Adjust mode), then a second beep (Test mode). Stop turning and the robot will go into "individual servo test mode". In this mode, every hip servo will move, one by one. When all the hips have moved, every leg will move, one by one. You should see every servo move, in order. If some don't move, check your connections. A common error is to plug a servo connector into the servo controller backwards (i.e. the brown wire is matched with the yellow pin instead of the black pin). If the servos do not move in a sensible order, that probably means you plugged a couple of servos into the wrong sockets in the electrical harness.

*'''STEP 14B: Test Using Demo Mode'''
**Ok, everything looks good, so time for a full test. Turn the knob to STOP, then put the robot on the floor, somewhere that has at least a few feet of room in each direction. (Caution: it's tempting to do this on a table top, but unless you have a huge table this is not advisable, Max will run pretty fast at some points during the demo.)
**Turn the knob to DEMO, and about one second later the robot will go through a series of movements to demonstrate some of the things it can do. The full demo only takes about 30 seconds, then repeats. Here, you are looking for the robot to, for example, be able to get back up off the floor after doing some of its dance moves.
**If the robot struggles to get off the floor, you may have a battery that is not fully charged, or there may be drips or other obstructions stopping some legs from moving fully. See the [[Vorpal Combat_Hexapod Troubleshooting Guide|Trouble Shooting Guide]] for more information about different kinds of issues that can occur. That guide was written for the small robot, but most of the things that can go wrong with the Gigapod are similar to the things that can go wrong with Vorpal The Hexapod.

====STEP 15: Store electronics and wires in the Base====
Carefully stow the caddies into the base, using any available convenient space. NOTE: Unlike the small hexapod and megapod, the Gigapod saves weight by not having any service access covers. This makes it look messier when the top is off, but the savings in weight was necessary to avoid servo stress.
<gallery mode=packed heights=250>
File:All-Electronics-Inserted-In-Base.jpg|Carefully stow the caddies into the base, being careful not to pull out any wires.
</gallery>

====STEP 16: Assemble the Cap====
*'''STEP 16A: Assemble the Four Cap Parts'''
**First assemble the three large pieces after removing the support coming out of the center. Be aware that there is a correct ordering to them, the two flaps that stick out near the bottom need to be opposite each other so the cap can slot into the Base and lock in place. Use #6-32 x 1 inch screws plus nylox locking nuts to secure the three parts together as shown. There are access holes around the rim that allow the hex key to reach the screws. Use nuts and locking washers to secure the screws.
**Secure the top of the cap onto the bottom three pieces using three 1 inch #6 socket screws and their associated nylox locking nuts.
<gallery mode=packed heights=250>
File:Cap-Exploded.JPG|Arrangement of the four Cap parts. Note that this diagram shows the support in place, this should actually be removed prior to assembly.
File:CAP-Assembly-order.JPG|Make sure the two flaps at the rim are opposite each other when ordering the three main parts.
</gallery>
* '''STEP 16B: Put Hook-and-loop on Cap''' Peel and stick on the "hook" side of a 1" piece of hook-and-loop on each flat circular decoration holder on the cap.
* '''STEP 16C: Decorate''' If desired, use a permanent marker to color the Vorpal "V" on top of the Cap. Oil markers work well. On light colors of plastic a black permanent marker will also work.
* '''STEP 16D: Put Cap on the Hexapod'''
**Screw the cap on the robot by lining up the tabs with the matching slots in the rim of the base. Turn the cap clockwise to lock it in place. IMPORTANT: Do not press down on the robot to insert the cap when the robot is under power standing on its legs! You can damage the leg motors by doing this. It is best to turn the robot off, and either support the bottom of the Base with one hand and press the Cap on with the other, or set the Base down on the table top or floor with legs out to the sides so they don't take pressure.
**If the cap is too loose and swivels while the robot moves, this can be fixed by putting a bit of tape on the cap's flaps to make them a little thicker. The tightness of the cap depends a lot on printer settings, over- or under-extrusion, etc.

====STEP 17: Warning Label====
There are self-stick choking hazard warning labels and also several pinch point warning labels in the hexapod parts bag. Peel the backing off one choking hazard lable and place it on the bottom of the robot, near the center. Retain the second label for the gamepad. The pinch point warnings should be placed around the body of the robot, above the legs, in visible positions. Depending on what kind of plastic you're using, they might or might not stick well. If they don't stick, use glue (such as cyanoacrilate "super glue" or even hot glue) to secure them. The warning labels are not optional! They are necessary for safety. The motors are powerful and can snap your fingers like a twig, or cause severe pinch injuries, sprains, or bruises.

==== Step 18: Trimming the Servos ====
When you assembled the servo horns onto the servos, you probably were not able to get them all to come out exactly at a 90 degree angle. That's not your fault: the servo horns only have 22 possible positions in which they can be installed, so at best you can come within plus or minus 8 degrees of perfection.

Now that you have the gamepad working, you can make fine adjustments to the servo positions using "Trim Mode". In this special gamepad mode, you can adjust all the servos to within a fraction of a degree. These adjustments are saved in the robot's EEPROM, which is memory on the Nano that retains data even when powered off. So, you only need to trim once.

Complete instructions on how to use trim mode are in the wiki page: [[Vorpal The Hexapod Trim Mode Guide]]. That guide was written for the smaller robot, but the instructions are identical for the Gigapod.

NOTE: although this step is optional, it is strongly recommended because your robot will walk straighter and all the servos will share equally in lifting the robot's weight, which will make them last longer.

====Step 19: Assembling Eye Decorations====
Peel and stick a piece of "loop" from the supplied hook and loop fasteners on the back of the two eye pieces. This allows you to stick the eyes on the Cap's matching "hook" areas.

NOTE: There are extra hook and loop circles included in your kit. You can create your own attachments, nameplates, etc. using these.

==Electrical Connections: Robot==
Please note that our Gigapod kit comes prewired using our QuickBuild system. The notes in this section are for makers who self-source.

===NOTES ON JUMPER WIRES===

====Wire Lengths====
There are two different lengths of female-female Dupont jumper wires used to make most connections. The longer ones (20cm) are only used for the Hexapod's accessory port connections. The shorter ones are used for all the connections on the Gamepad and all the connections on the Hexapod between the Arduino Nano, Servo controller and Bluetooth module.

====Wire Color Conventions====

Please follow these conventions when selecting wire colors:
* For +5V, Vin, and similar positive voltage connections, use either RED or ORANGE.
* For GND and other negative electrical connections, use BLACK or BROWN.
* For the connectors that sit at the mouth of the accessory port (used for optional sensors) colors are suggested below in the instructions. By following these suggestions you will make your life easier when connecting sensors!
* For all other connections, you can use any color you want, it's arbitrary.

====If Jumper Wires Are Too Loose====
Sometimes you will find a wire whose connector does not grip the pin well enough. It might fall off very easily or just by gravity alone. If that happens, you have a few options:
* There are extra wires in your kit. If you find a wire that's too loose, just use a different wire.
* Using the hex key, you can put the jumper housing on a flat surface then press on the metal showing through the plastic connector, which will tighten up the jumper wire's grip. Don't go too overboard on pressing though or you might make it too hard to insert.
* Alternatively, you could use electrical tape after inserting all the wires on a module (such as the Nano) to effectively attach together all the little plastic female connector housings. In that way, the connectors that do grip will help hold in the ones that are too loose. Some people also like using hot glue for this purpose. (Personally, I don't like using hot glue, as it makes it harder to change connections if you hooked something up incorrectly.)

===NANO PIN CONNECTIONS===
[[File:Megapod-Nano-Connections-v1.JPG|thumb|600px|right|Diagram of Nano connections for the Hexapod. Jumpers marked AP are routed to the Accessory Port for use with add-ons like sensors. Click for larger image.]]
* ''Digital IO Pins:''
** D0, D1 are reserved because they are used for uploading programs to the robot, so nothing will be connected there.
** D2, D3 No connection.
** D4 Buzzer Signal (white wire)
** D5 through D13 No connection. These pins are reserved for future expansion.

* ''Analog Pins:''
** A0 Potentiometer signal (white wire)
** A1 Potentiometer Power (red wire)
** A2 Potentiometer Ground (black wire)
** A3 No connection.
** A4 Servo Controller SDA
** A5 Servo Controller SCL
** A6, A7 No connection.

* ''Power Pins:''
** +5V pin on Nano connects to any of the +5V RED wires coming from the BEC on the power distribution harness.
** GND pin on Nano connects to any of the GND BLACK wires coming from the BEC on the power distribution harness.

===Servo Driver Power Pins===
* Port 0 RED pin on the Servo Driver connects to any of the +5V RED wires coming from the BEC on the power distribution harness.
* Port 0 BLACK GND pin on the Servo Driver connects to any of the GND BLACK wires coming from the BEC on the power distribution harness.

=== Bluetooth Module Power ===
* +5V on HC05 connects to any RED Dupont connector coming off the BEC.
* GND on HC05 connects to any BLACK Dupont connector coming off the BEC.

=== Buzzer Power ===
* Plug the buzzer into the unused port 15 on the servo driver, making sure the red and black wires on the buzzer power match the red and black rows of pins on the servo driver.

=== Servo Driver ===
[[File:Megapod-ServoDriverConnections.jpg|thumb|600px|right|Diagram of Servo Controller pins you will use in this project. Each servo motor has a 3 wire connector that should be plugged into the corresponding servo number extension connector in the power distribution harness. The white wires coming out of the harness in groups of four should be connected to the yellow line or ports, matching the number ranges to port numbers. Note that the black and red rows of pins are not used, power is provided to the servos through the power distribution harness. Click for larger image.]]
* Connect the 12 servos to power distribution harness connectors marked with port numbers corresponding to the servo marking (0 to 11). Make sure the signal wire (yellow) is oriented correctly and matches the yellow plastic header pin.
* Connect the groups of four white wires which are marked with servo port numbers to the Servo Driver yellow pins, matching the Servo Driver pin number to the port numbers written on the 4-pin Dupont connectors coming out of the power distribution harness.
* Connect one of the +5V RED regulated BEC outputs to the RED port 0 pin of the Servo Driver. Connect one of the GND black pins coming out of the BEC to the BLACK port 0 GND pin on the Servo Driver.
* On one short side of the Servo Controller you will find a VCC and V+ pin right next to each other. Use a shunt (small black connector that goes over two pins) to connect those together if one is not already installed. Without this shunt the Servo Driver will not work.
* SDA and SCL go to A4 and A5 on the Nano, respectively.



== Building the Gamepad ==
The gamepad for Gidget the Gigapod is identical to the Gamepad for Vorpal The Hexapod (and also Max the Megapod).

Please see instructions on [[Vorpal_The_Hexapod_Building_Instructions#Building_the_Gamepadd|the Vorpal Hexapod Gamepad Assembly instructions]].

{{Gigapod Quick Links}}

Gidget The Gigapod Assembly Instructions

2021-03-19T15:22:51Z

Vorpalwiki: /* STEP 4B: Insert Servos in Legs */

==LIMITED AVAILABILITY==

Our kits for this project are special order at this time. Allow two weeks for us to ship. Because the parts are relatively heavy, shipping to areas outside the USA is expensive. For makers outside the USA, you may want to try to acquire the parts locally. But beware of subsitutions! Walking robots have very precise requirements and any substitutions of parts may cause the project not to function as expected.

Warning: The 3D printed parts for this project consume a lot of plastic and the print (on our own printers) is over 200 hours for all the parts. (It's not 200 hours straight, it's multiple print jobs each running 6 to 16 hours.) You shouldn't attempt this unless you're prepared for long print times and your printer is well tuned to make failures rare.

NEW: our Megapod and Gigapod kits are now standard with the "Quickbuild" electrical system. This cuts over an hour off the build time.

==Gidget The Gigapod Construction==
[[File:Giga-Mega-Hexa-Stacked.jpg|right|thumb|Gigapod, Megapod, Hexapod relative sizes]]
Gidget The Gigapod is a very large, 3d printed, hexapod robot. This page gives complete instructions for building this project. If you are new to 3d printing, you probably don't want to start with this one, though. Please consider our smaller [[Vorpal The Hexapod]] project instead.
==BILL OF MATERIALS (BOM) FOR GIDGET THE GIGAPOD==
===Notes on Sourcing Parts Yourself===
* These instructions assume you have purchased a kit from us (kits are currently a special order item). If you are sourcing your own parts, please be aware of the following additional information:
**If you are sourcing your own parts, you need to build the power distribution connector assembly. This is identical to the power distribution system for [[Max The Megapod]]. For diagrams see [[Max The Megapod Battery/Switch Construction]] except that it uses an XT60 connector instead of Tamaya for the large battery, and it uses a 30 amp fuse instead of a 15 amp fuse. This will take about 2 hours of soldering and labelling work.
**Also see important information on that page if you are sourcing your own BEC.
**If you are sourcing your own Bluetooth modules, please be aware that you will need to configure them to auto-pair and to have a UART speed of 38400 BAUD. Every module brand's firmware is a bit different so it's not possible for us to give you universal instructions on how to program them. We assume that if you source your own parts you are familiar with how to configure Bluetooth modules using AT-commands. (You can find tutorials online or videos on youtube, but like we said, different modules may not exactly match instructions you will find so be prepared to fiddle around a bit). Please do not ask our customer support for help on this topic. We sell pre-configured modules that auto-pair on boot for a very reasonable price.
**If you are sourcing your own Arduino Nano modules, you will need to flash the robot and gamepad code on them. You can find the latest stable release of code at the [https://tinyurl.com/VORPALFILES Vorpal Hexapod Public Dropbox folder]. The source code tree is posted in our github repository, but the top of that tree may not be stable. Note: there is currently no difference in software between the large and small versions of the hexapod other than a single #define called HEXSIZE. For the gigapod, this should be set to 2.
* Please be very careful about substitutions. You might think you can substitute cheaper parts for the ones specified here. Don't bet on it. Walking robots are extremely difficult to design, and we've chosen each part for a good reason. For example, if you try to substitute cheaper servos you are very likely to find that they don't provide enough torque for the robot to stand up, or they burn out within minutes due to being over-stressed. If you substitute a different battery voltage, you'll either fry the servos or they won't have enough torque. It took 1,000 hours of work to design the smaller hexapod on which this one is based, then another 500 hours of redesign, testing, and tuning to get the big version working well. If you want to try substitutions, okay, but please don't expect it to work without many hours of adjustments and testing.
* Full kits of parts as well as individual parts will be available on [http://store.vorpalrobotics.com The Vorpal Robotics Store]. If you are new to Arduino and robotics we strongly recommend you purchase a kit instead of trying to self-source parts (and truthfully, if you're not experienced with this kind of project you really should build the smaller [[Vorpal The Hexapod]] kit first. NOTE: kits will not be available until approximately Fall 2020 due to delays in getting parts from China due to the virus pandemic.
* Our kits cut 4 to 5 hours off the build time, bringing it to typically 2 to 3 or so hours. The kits have all soldering done, programs are already loaded on the Nanos, Bluetooth modules are properly configured, and you know you have all the right parts to work together. About half the people who self-source parts end up buying parts that are incorrect or are so cheap that they will quickly fail (and they end up spending more money and far more time than if they had simply bought a kit to start with!)

=== ROBOT BOM ===
[[File:Choking-Hazard-Image.jpg|right|350px]]
[[File:PinchPoint-Warning.JPG|right|350px]]

* ''Electronics:''
** Passive Piezo Buzzer module and 3 wire cable (see image) [[File:Passive-Piezo-Buzzer-Module.jpg|right|thumb|Passive Piezo Buzzer Module]]
** Arduino Nano, 5V, 16 mHz, ATMEGA328 or similar (marked RM in our kit to indicate it is pre-loaded with Gigapod robot software)
** Rotary potentiometer, 10K Ohms, 6mm shaft diameter, with 3 wires pre-soldered. Also, matching dial cap and nut. If you are self-sourcing see our instructions: [[Max The Megapod Battery/Switch Construction]]
** 1 x HC05 BlueTooth Module with F-F jumper wires for making connections (our kit electronics are pre-wired for you)
** 1 x Servo Controller module (Adafruit 16-channel 12-bit I2C PWM/Servo driver or Adafruit clone) with F-F jumper wires for making connections, plus 1 two-pin shunt tying V+ to VCC
** 12 x DS5160 SSG 180 degree, 60 kg-cm torque servo motors with metal servo horns. Be sure you order the 180 degree version, these servos also come in a 270 degree version.
** 1 x Power distribution wiring harness with DPST on/off switch, Fuse, XT60 battery connector, 3A 5V BEC, and servo extension connectors. If you are self-sourcing see our wiring instructions: [[Max The Megapod Battery/Switch Construction|Circuit Diagrams]]. (The battery/switch circuit for the Gigapod is identical to that of the Megapod except it uses an XT60 connector for the large battery and it uses a 30 amp fuse instead of a 15 amp fuse.)
* ''3D Printed Parts:''
** 6 Robot Base Parts and bottom plate to hold the parts together.
** 4 Cap parts which screw together to form the cap of the robot.
** 6 x Legs
** 6 x Feet that will be assembled with wheels.
** 6 x TPU Boots to provide better traction. These should be printed in TPU or other flexible plastics so they absorb some impact during walking.
** 12 x Servo Stops. These parts hold the servos in their compartments both in the base and the legs.
** 12 x Servo Bearing Pegs. These insert into the servo compartments and provide a secure place for the bearings to sit.
** 12 x Leg Hinge halves with Leg Hinge Rings. The rings stop layer separation issues under stress.
** 1 x Electronics Caddy to hold Arduino Nano
** 1 x Electronics Caddy to hold the Servo Driver
** 2 x Eye/glasses Decoration
** 8 x 1 inch diameter hook-and-loop self stick circles to attach of eyes and other decorations
* ''Screws and Fasteners''
** 12 x Nylon bolts 1/4-20 x 2" long. These can be partially threaded. Note that it is important for these to be made of nylon for weight savings. These are used to secure servos in place using the servo stopper part.
** 12 x M3x20mm button head screws (with matching flat washers and external tooth washers) to secure servo arms to servo through the screw hole in the hinge.
** 6 x #6-32 x 1.75" long cap screws plus nuts to attach boots onto the end of the leg
** 6 x #6-32 x 1" long cap screws plus nuts to provide axles for the boot wheels.
** 6 x 1/4-20 x 1.25" long cap screw plus nylox locking nuts for holding the BASE parts together
** 6 x 1/4-20 x 3/4" long cap screw plus nylox locking nuts for holding the BOTTOM onto the BASE assembly
** 6 x #6-32 cap screws plus nylox locking nuts for holding the CAP and CAP TOPPER parts together
** 6 x #6-32 cap screws plus nylox locking nuts for holding the LEG HINGES together. Note that the smaller versions of the robot depend on a snap-together system to hold the hinges together, but the larger Gigapod requires a screw through the center hole to ensure the hinges remain together.
** If you are self-sourcing and building your own electrical system, you will also need 10 x #6-32 x 1/2" screws to hold the power distribution plastic covers together. If you buy our kit, these are already installed on the wiring harness.
* ''Miscellaneous Mechanical Parts:''
** 12 x 6202ZZ Double Metal Seal Bearings 15x35x11mm for leg hinges
** 12 x 608zz Skate Bearings with nylon coated wheel, dimensions: 27.5mm diameter wheel, 8mm inner diameter on bearing, 8mm wide.
* ''Tools Required (Not included in kit)''
** Hex drivers for the various sized bolts and screws.
** Needle nose pliers are useful for holding the nuts while assembling BASE and CAP parts.
** 3 x Pinch Point Stickers. Place these around the robot Base to warn onlookers not to touch the robot. Some kinds of plastic may not stick well to the adhesive, you may need to secure with hot glue or superglue or similar.
* ''Batteries and Chargers''
** The Gigapod uses a 4200 mAH (a little more is okay but don't go too high due to weight considerations) 7-cell NIMH battery (8.4 Volts) with male XT60 connector and compatible charger, such as: [https://www.batteryspace.com/nimhbatterypack84v4200mahhumpbatterypacksforrctraxxasandlosietc.aspx BatterySpace 42000 mAH 8.4 V NIMH] (We use that one for demos with the 14 gauge wire option, and we solder on an XT60 male connector in-house. You get about 30 minutes of run time with this battery.)
**The Gigapod also requires one 9v battery, we recommend NIMH or LI-ON rechargeable with compatible charger.
** The gamepad takes any kind of standard 9v rectangular batter, either rechargeable or disposable work fine. These are commonly available from many sources. We recommend rechargeable NIMH or LI-ON 9v batteries with compatible charger.
** Note that we do not provide batteries or chargers with our kits due to licenses required to ship batteries.
NOTE ON BATTERY SAFETY: Never leave batteries in the Gigapod or gamepad after use. If either one gets turned on accidentally, overdraining the battery may damage or destroy it. As soon as the Gigapod has trouble moving or sags under its own weight, immediately stop and replace with fresh batteries.

=== GAMEPAD BOM AND ASSEMBLY ===
The gamepad for Gidget the Gigapod is identical to the gamepad for Vorpal The Hexapod. See instructions for the gamepad here: [[Vorpal_The_Hexapod_Building_Instructions#Building_the_Gamepadd|Vorpal The Hexapod Gamepad Assembly instructions]]

==Printing the Plastic Parts==

This section assumes you have basic familiarity with 3D printing and 3D printing terminology. If not, you might want to reference online materials such as youtube videos or information from your 3D printer manufacturer before attempting this project.

Please note: it takes over 200 hours to print this project. This is not a project for the faint of heart, or for people who are not experienced in 3d printing and have not tuned and maintained their printers. If you are a beginner at 3d printing, we strongly recommend that you start with our smaller [[Vorpal the Hexapod]] project. It's a 16 hour print, requires a lot less bridging, and less than a tenth as much practice.

===OBTAINING THE STL FILES===
We have posted the STL files to [http://www.thingiverse.com Thingiverse]. Search for "Gidget the Gigapod" and they should pop right up.

Please help us by rating the Gidget the Gigapod project (or clicking on the LIKE button, COLLECT button, etc.)!

Please post your builds to places like Thingiverse, pictures to FaceBook, Instagram, etc., and videos of your robot to YouTube! This will help us grow and continue having the resources creating cool new projects for our community.

===MINIMUM PRINTER REQUIREMENTS===
*The bed size should be at least 275mm cube (about 11 inches cube). The largest parts are the six Base and the 3 Cap parts in the x and y directions, and in the Z direction the Leg is largest, so these are the limiting factor on bed size.
* For almost all parts, we recommend PLA PRO plastic (or similiar enhanced PLA plastics that may go under other names like PLA+). These are large parts and so PLA is preferred due it being resistant to warping.
* The boots part is best made of TPU plastic, or similar flexible plastics, to reduce the impact of walking on floors.
===AMOUNT OF PLASTIC FILAMENT===
* About 6 to 7 kg of PLA plastic are needed to print the entire robot and gamepad, assuming no print failures.
* About 200 grams of TPU (or similar flexible plastic) are needed to print the wheels. It is possible to print the wheels out of harder plastics but in that case they might scratch wooden floors, so we suggest TPU or some other flexible, soft plastic.
* The amount of plastic used does depend on plastic type and exact print settings though, so your mileage may vary.

===RECOMMENDED PLASTICS===
*ABS, PETG, and PLA all work well. However, because there are some very large parts, ABS may cause you some warping issues if you don't have a heated bed, enclosure, and a printer tuned well for large parts. PLA is generally easier and has fewer issues with corners peeling off the print bed.
*We use eSun PLA PRO for this project and for us it works very well. PLA PRO is a little more flexible and stronger than typical PLA. We have no problems with warping even on the largest parts.
*For the boots, we used Sainsmart TPU and it works very well. Other flexible plastics would probably also be fine.
*This project requires less flexibility than the smaller Vorpal The Hexapod project, so ABS is not at all required for this project.
===PRINTING TIPS===
This project has been finely tuned to make it easy to 3D print. No additional supports are required for any of the parts (there is a support built into the models for the CAP parts and there are tiny supports built into the hinge parts). In some cases you may want to use brims or rafts to help parts adhere to the print surface. These are large, long prints so using a brim for a little added safety is probably prudent.

There is some significant bridging with some spans up to 45mm (1.8"). It is important to tune your printer and make sure it can handle the bridging before attempting the large parts. A little sagging is ok and a drip or two can be easily removed, but you need decent ability to bridge. There are bridge testing and calibration models posted on sites like Thingiverse that may help you tune your printer before trying the big parts. There are numerous "3d printing tips" type postings on the internet that make suggestions for how to tune for features like bridging.

====PRINT SETTINGS====
We print using the following settings on a Lulzbot TAZ 6 with 0.5mm nozzle:
* 0.4 layer thickness (or whatever layer thickness is the largest that will work on your printer)
* 2mm walls (i.e. four perimeters for a 0.5mm nozzle)
* 1.6 mm top and bottom (i.e. four layers at 0.4mm layer height)
* 25% infill
* You can print with thinner layers if your printer does not support 0.4mm layers or if you want a more refined look, it will just take longer. If you have a large nozzle (0.8mm or more) you should be able to go with bigger layers and save a lot of print time. Please report your findings to us at support@vorpalrobotics.com so we can advise future Makers of this project.

====POST PRINT====
Other than removing brims/rafts, cap and hinge built in supports, and the occasional drip, there is not any special post-processing required after printing. Some of the big bridges might seem a little saggy but generally speaking there's enough tolerance that this won't cause an issue. The biggest bridges are mostly hidden inside the robot so they won't affect cosmetics.

====PRO TIPS====
*Do routine maintenance on your printer before printing the big parts: lubricate rods and lead screws, check bed leveling, replace nozzle if worn, do a calibration print, clean your print surface, etc. A few minutes of preparation will help you nail these prints and make a project you can be very proud of!
*Print the large parts (Base, Cap) at the ''start'' of new spools. The last thing you want is to run out of filament 95% of the way through a big part.
*Print the smallest parts (servo stops, hinge rings, Leg pegs, gamepad drawer) near the end of a spool.
*If you have a large format printer, it is tempting to kick off several large parts at once and let it run overnight. We would recommend against that--the chances of killing an entire spool of filament due to an overnight power hit or other failure is just not worth it. Take your time, do the big parts one by one. One or two during the day, one overnight. It will all get done soon enough. An extra few days won't matter in the long run.

== Building the Robot ==

You will need the following tools:
*Included in the kit:
** 2mm hex key. A 5/64 inch hex key will also work. This is in the Gigapod Parts bag.
** 7/64 hex key at least 6" long (150mm). It needs to be long enough to reach screws through access holes in the Base and Cap. This is in the Gigapod Parts Bag.
*Not included in the kit:
** Optional: A marker that can write on dark plastic and still be seen, such as Sharpie Metallic or Sharpie Oil markers (white and yellow work great on dark colored plastic, black or blue work well on light colored plastic). This can be used to make raised lettering on the robot and gamepad more visible.
** Optional: Needle nose pliers can be helpful for holding nuts in place while tightening screws.
** Optional: Slip-joint pliers can be helpful for forcing the skate bearings into their press-fit locations on the Leg Hinges

===IMPORTANT WARNING: POWERFUL SERVOS MAY INJURE YOU===
The motors on Gidget the Gigapod are very powerful compared to the smaller Vorpal the Hexapod (or even Max the Megapod) projects. It is possible for the leg motions to pinch fingers or even possibly break fingers or cause other injuries, possibly severe. When powering on the Gigapod you must keep fingers clear of places where the legs/hips can come together. You should mount the included "Pinch Point" stickers around the Base of the robot to warn others. During public demonstrations, keep adults and especially children away from the robot when it's operating. Little kids will definitely try to touch the robot and could be injured, keep them at a safe distance. In case of electrical issues the legs may move unexpectedly. Turning the power off will release the motors. Never carry the Gigapod when it's powered on. For safety, I disconnect the battery when transporting, just to prevent the possibility that the power switch will get hit accidentally.

If the robot is moving in an out of control manner, use a pencil, book, or rod to hit the power switch from a safe distance. The switch is large and easy to turn off.

You must at all times take standard precautions that are typical with large robotic projects.

If you are building your own electrical system please do not skimp by skipping adding the fuse to the circuit. This project may draw significant amperage and fuse protection is required.

===Step by Step Instructions===
PLEASE NOTE: These instructions are currently in draft state, and I've used diagrams from Max the Megapod here temporarily. The construction is very similar, although you will note some discrepancies such as the BASE for the Megapod comes in 3 parts while in the Gigapod it comes in 6 parts. Still, the construction is analogous. I'll be replacing diagrams for the parts that are not the same first.

====STEP 1: Build the BASE====
* STEP 1A: Take the six outer parts of the base (STL files: Base-1, Base-2, ... Base-6) and arrange them to form the "bowl" of the base. Make sure the servo numbers are in the right order as you move clockwise around the six parts! It's possible to assemble them in the wrong order if you don't check.
* STEP 1B: There are matching screw holes positioned on little rectangular outcroppings on the inside of the top ring, these require screws to bind the three parts together. Use six 1/4-20 by 1.25 inch socket head screws, toothed lock washers, and nuts to secure them. There is an access hole in the rim of the robot to allow the hex key to turn the screw. You may need to hold the nut in place using needle-nose pliers. Repeat for all six sections.
<gallery mode=packed heights=250>
File:Base-Exploded-View.JPG|Line up the six main pieces of the base, ensuring the servo numbers are in order.
File:Access-Hole-In-Base.jpg|Small access holes are strategically placed around the base so the hex key can turn the screws to secure the three base pieces.
File:Securing-Base-Sections.jpg|Use the access hole in the Base parts to secure screws that bind the three base parts together.
File:Megapod-Foam-Squares.jpg|Peel the backing off the foam squares that came with the kit and attach them to the bottom of the base. Stack them on top of each other.
</gallery>
* STEP 1C: Take the Base Bottom part and place it inside the base. There is a nub in one place that will only allow it to be inserted in one orientation. Use six 1/4-20 by 3/4 inch screws with nuts and lock washers in the outer ring of holes in the bottom to secure it to the base. The head of the screw should be on the outside of the robot and nuts should secure the screws on the inside.
* STEP 1D: Take the foam squares that came in your kit and stick them on the bottom of the robot, reasonably centered. These foam pads will reduce the shock and stress on the robot when it goes down to the floor on certain dance moves. Without these pads, the robot leg servos and body structure may undergo too much stress.

====STEP 2: Install the electrical system in the base====
* STEP 2A: Take the potentiometer and remove its dial cap, then unscrew the nut and set these items aside for now (don't lose them). Push the potentiometer shaft from the inside of the chassis into the hole that is surrounded by the markings "STOP", "TST", etc. The wires coming out of the potentiometer should be pointing down. The little metal nub sticking out of the potentiometer should match with a tiny rectangular hole that is near the marking "TST". Put the retaining nut on the potentiometer, hand tighten first and then give it just another half turn or so with pliers if desired. Turn the knob all the way counter-clockwise, then insert the knob so it points to the letter "O" in the word "STOP".
* STEP 2B: Take the large DPST on/off switch (which is attached to the battery holder and power distribution assembly) and thread the switch wires from the inside through the gap at the bottom of the switch hole (see picture). Carefully push the wires one by one through the slot below the switch hole. Once all the wires are through, push the switch into the switch hole. It should be oriented with the "1" to the right. Press carefully into the hole, it should snap firmly in place.
** If the fit is too tight to get the switch in place, lightly sanding or filing the hole to make it a tiny bit larger should work.
<gallery mode=packed heights=200>
File:Switch-Insert-1.jpg|Thread the switch and its wires through the Base, there is an opening under the switch hole.
File:Switch-Insert-2.jpg|Bring the wires up through the small gap below the switch hole. Be careful with the large wires, they require some pressure or some flexing of the plastic to get through.
File:Switch-Insert-3.jpg|All the wires are now coming through the switch hole.
File:Switch-Insert-4.jpg|Press the switch into the hole, it should snap into place. The "1" should be to the right.
</gallery>

====STEP 3: Insert servos in the chassis====
* Next, insert the servo into the chassis as shown in the diagrams. As you insert the servo into the chassis, slowly press it straight into place until it fully seats. Use a servo stopper and one 1/4-20 by 2 inch nylon hex bolts to secure the servos in place. The nylon bolts should retain in the holes even though there are no threads and no nut used. If you find them working themselves loose, you could wrap a bit of electrical tape around the end of the screw to make the fit tighter.
<gallery mode=packed heights=250>
File:Servo-in-Base-2.jpg|Insert each servo with the wire coming out away from the robot as shown here. Press in completely.
File:Servo-in-Base-3.jpg|Insert a servo stopper (shown in red) and secure with nylong bolt. Thread the wire into the body of the robot through the hole as shown.
</gallery>

====STEP 4: Build the Legs====
=====STEP 4A: Assemble Boot and Wheel=====
Because of the large size of the Gigapod, the leg is assembled using several parts (whereas it is a single part with the smaller hexapod designs). The extra part that is attached at the tip of the main leg piece is called the boot. Each boot is tipped by a TPU wheel. This reduces friction when the robot needs to stand, but provides traction when legs move laterally to walk. The TPU wheel is secured by a #6-32 x 1 inch screw, lock washer, and nut as shown in the diagram below. The entire boot/wheel assembly is attached to the main leg using two bushings, one of which has a hex-shaped indentation to retain a #6-32 nut.
<gallery mode=packed heights=350>
File:Gigapod-Leg-Assembly-Wheel-Boot.PNG|Parts for Boot and Wheel. The boot goes over the main leg and is secured with two leg bushings and a #6-32 1" screw, nut, and lock washer. The wheel is attached between two wheel bushings and is secured with a #6-32 x 1" screw, lock washer, and nut.
File:Gigapod-Leg-Assembly-Bearing-Peg.PNG|Insert Bearing Peg (red). The servo will lock it in place, there are no screws required.
</gallery>

=====STEP 4B: Insert Servos in Legs=====
The technique is very similar to inserting the servo into the chassis.
*Insert the servo straight into the leg socket so that the wire is coming out of the servo facing away from the plastic leg and the face of the servo with the shaft and servo horn goes into the open faced side of the leg, as shown in the diagram.
*Secure the servo in place with a servo stopper and one 2 inch nylong bolt as you did with the hip servos in the base.
*The servos in the legs are called the "knee" servos. Each leg has a higher number on it, this is the knee number, they run from 6 to 11. Again, write this number on the black connector at the end of the servo wire. PRO TIP: For 6 and 9, underline the number so you don't read them upside down!
*Cut a 12 inch length of braided wire covering. Seal the threads at the end using a lighter for a couple seconds to melt them. Be careful not to set on fire. Thread the knee servo wires through the braided wire covering. This will help protect the servo wires, and also makes the robot look better. You may need to use electrical tape or a zip tie to secure the end of the braided covering to the end of the servo wire where it comes out of the servo.
<gallery mode=packed heights=200>
File:Servo-Insert-Leg-v2.png|Insert Servos in Legs
File:Servo-Leg-Inserted-v2.png|Push until fully seated
File:Servo-Stopper-In-Leg.jpg|Use the servo stopper and two screws to lock the servo in place
</gallery>

*Thread each leg servo wire (with braided covering) into the bottom wire guide slot on the chassis. Each leg servo should be matched with a hip servo plus 6. The legs are marked with the hip number near the top and the knee number below that. For example, the leg marked 6 should be threaded through the wire guide on hip servo 0, leg 7 goes with hip 1, leg 8 goes with hip 2, etc. Add 6 to the hip number to get the leg number.

====STEP 5: Plug in the Servos====
Thread the servo wires into the chassis using the routing holes, as you did with the hip servos. The power distribution harness has marked servo extension sockets for each servo. Each hip servo is marked on the BASE showing its number. the knee servo for each hip is numbered six higher than its corresponding hip. For example, hip servo number 3 will be attached to knee servo number 9, because 3+6=9.

When plugging the servos in, make sure you match the light yellow servo wire to the white servo extension wire, and the dark brown servo wire should match with the black servo extension wire.

====STEP 6: Make Robot Electrical Connections====

If you are self-sourcing, use the diagram below in the electrical section to make the rest of the robot's electrical connections. You'll be using the Robot Arduino Nano (marked "R"), the Servo Driver, Bluetooth Module marked "S", the buzzer, and a bunch of jumper wires. Make sure you use the longer jumper wires for the SDA and SCL connections between the Nano and the Servo Driver.
If you bought a kit from us, all connections are already made, other than plugging the servos into the marked servo extension connectors.

====STEP 7: Assemble the leg hinges====
[[File:Servo-Bracket-Alignment-v1.png|thumb|350px|right|Align the leg hinges as shown here. The bumps (see arrows) should both be near each other when properly aligned. Hold one in each hand with the ends of the U shape between thumb and forefinger.]]
Each leg hinge is composed of two identical U-shaped parts. Take one in each hand and align the two so that the bump (shown in the diagram at the right) are both near each other. Turn one 90 degrees with respect to the other.
*Gently squeeze each piece between thumb and forefinger, which causes the little jaws in the center to open up slightly. Work the two halves together. Keep squeezing harder until the ends slide into place.
*If you used PLA and are finding it hard to bend, briefly soaking the pieces in very hot tap water has been reported to make it easier. Take care not to scald yourself, the water does not have to be boiling, just hot from the tap. You only need to dip the ends that will lock over each other, not the parts you will squeeze. Use caution.
*At this stage, you may notice that the parts are loosely clamped on each other (this depends on plastic used and whether your printer over- or under-extrudes). Don't worry! When you place the leg hinges over a servo, the servo will spread it apart and they will lock together more tightly.
* Use a #6-32 1" screw and matching nut through the center hole of the two joined leg hinges to secure the hinges further. (This is necessary because the gigapod's hinges are under much more stress than in the megapod or hexapod.)
*Insert a 6202ZZ bearing into the socket on one side of the leg hinges. Pliers may be necessary to press them into place. Make sure you clean up any drips inside the recessed area for the skate bearing before attempting to insert the bearings. If you have a lot of trouble getting them in, you could heat up that part of the hinge in hot tap water to soften the plastic, or use a butane lighter (carefully! don't stop moving it) to soften the plastic before inserting the bearing.

====STEP 8: Attach Leg Hinges====
The leg hinges connect the hips to the knees. They only go on one way. If you made sure to align the bumps when assembling the leg hinges, this will result in correct orientation of all legs.
*First place the end that matches the servo horn on about halfway. Make sure the servo horn slides under the little pocket at the end of recessed area that accepts the horn.
*Very slightly bend the U shaped piece while pulling the skate bearing side over the hemispherical bump on the other side of the servo holding area. It's a little easier to do the knees (servos mounted to legs) first, followed by the hips (servos on base).
*NOTE: It will be a tight fit, but it should not be excessively difficult to push the hinge over the bearing.
*When completed, double check to make sure the servo horn went into the covered pocket at the end of its recessed area. This pocket keeps the horn from slipping out of the hinge during stressful operations.

====STEP 9: Enclose the electronics modules in their caddies====

Now things look pretty messy with all those wires hanging loose, let's clean it up by stowing the Arduino Nano, Bluetooth module and Servo Driver in their caddies. The caddies will keep them safe by making sure they can't short out against each other or touch screws, etc.
* '''STEP 9A: Insert Caddy Bars''' Insert the electronics caddy bars as shown in the diagrams below. Notice carefully how they are inserted. Don't insert them upside down, the little hump should be facing inward toward the caddy. You may need to slightly squeeze the forked section at the end to work it into the hole. Once inside, it may be difficult to remove because it will snap into place, so be sure you're putting it in the right way.
<gallery mode=packed heights=300>
File:Insert-Caddy-Bar-1.jpg|Insertion of the caddy bar into the Nano caddy. Notice the orientation, don't put the bar in upside down. The same technique is used for the Servo Driver Caddy.
</gallery>
* '''STEP 9B: Insert the Arduino Nano into its caddy''' Carefully insert the Nano as shown, making sure you don't pull out any of the wires. You may need to wiggle the caddy bar from side to side a bit so that components can slide past it during insertion. Notice that the end of the Nano that has the USB port must go in last.

<gallery mode=packed heights=250>
File:Insert-Nano-In-Caddy-1.jpg|Insert the Nano in the orientation shown.
File:Insert-Nano-In-Caddy-2.jpg|You may need to wiggle it a bit or press on the bar to work it into place.
File:Insert-Nano-In-Caddy-3.jpg|Note how the USB port is accessible through the top after full insertion.
</gallery>

* '''STEP 9C: Insert the Servo Driver into its caddy''' Carefully insert the Servo Driver as shown, making sure you don't pull out any of the wires. You may need to wiggle the caddy bar from side to side a bit so that components can slide past it during insertion. Notice that the end of the Servo controller with wires sticking out of it must go in last.

<gallery mode=packed heights=200>
File:Insert-ServoDriver-In-Caddy-1.jpg|Insert the Servo Driver in the orientation shown.
File:Insert-ServoDriver-In-Caddy-2.jpg|You may need to wiggle it a bit or press on the bar to work it into place.
File:Insert-ServoDriver-In-Caddy-3.jpg|Note that the end with the wires goes in last.
</gallery>

* '''STEP 9D: Insert the HC05 Bluetooth Module''' The diagrams here do not show the wires to make them easier to visualize. The HC05 Bluetooth module with a name beginning with "S" should be used for the robot. For example, the label will read something like "VORP S2944" (the number will differ). The one marked "M" will be used for the gamepad. Slide the HC05 into the side drawer as shown. When inserting, be careful not to pull out the wires, which will be a little tight. Work the wires into the little space provided so they stay clear of the robot's cap when it gets screwed on later.

<gallery mode=packed heights=250>
File:Insert-HC05-in-Caddy-1.jpg|Insert the HC05 into the side drawer of the Nano Caddy as shown.
File:Insert-HC05-in-Caddy-2.jpg|When fully inserted, the indicator light will still be visible through the small oval.
File:Insert-HC05-in-Caddy-3.jpg|The wires should be tucked into the little cavity near the pins of the HC05.
</gallery>

====STEP 10: Power up!====
Make sure the on/off switch is off, and the knob is turned to STOP. Attach the proper batteries (a 9v recharageable NIMH or LI-ON, and an 8.4 volt 4000 or more mAh NIMH with XT60 connector) and power on the robot using the on/off switch. You should hear a beep, a pause, then a second beep. The servos should all twitch into position. If the robot does not move at all, immediately turn the switch off and check your connections again. If some of the servos don't move then gently push them with power off to see if you can free them up. If they still won't move, try pushing them with power applied, but turn off the power within 30 seconds if they're locked up. If you can't get the servo to move it will need to be replaced.

[[File:Servo-Horn-Orientation.png|thumb|right|The servo horn should come straight out from the body at a 90 degree angle as shown here. Do not turn the servo shaft by hand until after it has moved under power!]]

====STEP 11: Insert Servo Horns====
The servo horns are all at random-ish angles right now. In this step we'll make them point in the right direction. The knee servos are not at 90 degrees when the knob is all the way counter clockwise, rather they are at a 30 degree standing angle.

We need to get them to 90 degrees so its easy to align the servo horn, and this is done by going into "Adjust Mode". Turn the knob very slightly clockwise until you hear a beep, then stop. After about one second you will see all the knee servos twitch. This is "adjust servo horn mode". All servos (knees and hips) are now at their halfway point, 90 degrees.

Now you need to take each single arm servo horn and carefully insert it on the shaft so that it is sticking straight out as shown in the figure. You will not always be able to make the horn come totally straight out. This is because there are only 22 little groves (splines) in each shaft, meaning you can in general only come within about 8 degrees of being at a perfect 90 degree angle. This amount of error is acceptable for now, just get it as close as you can. Later we'll use Trim Mode to make fine adjustments.

====STEP 12: Test Knee Positions====
Turn the knob fully counter clockwise (to STOP) and the robot will go into "stand still" mode. Place it on a level surface such as a table top. Do all of the legs touch the ground? If one or more legs don't touch the ground, you need to adjust the servo horn on the knee a little bit so it does touch. Gently pull off the servo bracket. Pull the servo horn off, and put it back on just a little bit moved so the leg would move closer to the ground. Put the servo bracket back on, and see how it looks. Do this until all legs are at least slightly touching the ground. Again, you can't necessarily be perfect due to the 8 degree increments the servo horns can be moved. But you should be able to be close enough that all legs at least slightly touch the ground.

====STEP 13: Insert Servo Screws====
Now that the legs are adjusted, you can insert the M3x12 screws (with M3 lock washers) into the servo horns to lock them in place. Note that you will NOT be using the screws that were in the little bag the servos came in, you'll be using the separate pack of screws, which are longer than the ones in the servo bag. Do not overtighten these screws, as you could possibly crack the servo brackets. Just turn the screws until you start to feel resistance, then turn a quarter turn more and stop.

====STEP 14: Test the Servos====
*'''STEP 14A: Using TST Mode'''
**To test whether every servo is working, put the robot on something that will lift its legs off the table top, but won't interfere with the legs (a small box or stack of books will work).
**Start with the knob on STOP, then slowly turn it clockwise. You'll hear one beep (Adjust mode), then a second beep (Test mode). Stop turning and the robot will go into "individual servo test mode". In this mode, every hip servo will move, one by one. When all the hips have moved, every leg will move, one by one. You should see every servo move, in order. If some don't move, check your connections. A common error is to plug a servo connector into the servo controller backwards (i.e. the brown wire is matched with the yellow pin instead of the black pin). If the servos do not move in a sensible order, that probably means you plugged a couple of servos into the wrong sockets in the electrical harness.

*'''STEP 14B: Test Using Demo Mode'''
**Ok, everything looks good, so time for a full test. Turn the knob to STOP, then put the robot on the floor, somewhere that has at least a few feet of room in each direction. (Caution: it's tempting to do this on a table top, but unless you have a huge table this is not advisable, Max will run pretty fast at some points during the demo.)
**Turn the knob to DEMO, and about one second later the robot will go through a series of movements to demonstrate some of the things it can do. The full demo only takes about 30 seconds, then repeats. Here, you are looking for the robot to, for example, be able to get back up off the floor after doing some of its dance moves.
**If the robot struggles to get off the floor, you may have a battery that is not fully charged, or there may be drips or other obstructions stopping some legs from moving fully. See the [[Vorpal Combat_Hexapod Troubleshooting Guide|Trouble Shooting Guide]] for more information about different kinds of issues that can occur. That guide was written for the small robot, but most of the things that can go wrong with the Gigapod are similar to the things that can go wrong with Vorpal The Hexapod.

====STEP 15: Store electronics and wires in the Base====
Carefully stow the caddies into the base, using any available convenient space. NOTE: Unlike the small hexapod and megapod, the Gigapod saves weight by not having any service access covers. This makes it look messier when the top is off, but the savings in weight was necessary to avoid servo stress.
<gallery mode=packed heights=250>
File:All-Electronics-Inserted-In-Base.jpg|Carefully stow the caddies into the base, being careful not to pull out any wires.
</gallery>

====STEP 16: Assemble the Cap====
*'''STEP 16A: Assemble the Four Cap Parts'''
**First assemble the three large pieces after removing the support coming out of the center. Be aware that there is a correct ordering to them, the two flaps that stick out near the bottom need to be opposite each other so the cap can slot into the Base and lock in place. Use #6-32 x 1 inch screws plus nylox locking nuts to secure the three parts together as shown. There are access holes around the rim that allow the hex key to reach the screws. Use nuts and locking washers to secure the screws.
**Secure the top of the cap onto the bottom three pieces using three 1 inch #6 socket screws and their associated nylox locking nuts.
<gallery mode=packed heights=250>
File:Cap-Exploded.JPG|Arrangement of the four Cap parts. Note that this diagram shows the support in place, this should actually be removed prior to assembly.
File:CAP-Assembly-order.JPG|Make sure the two flaps at the rim are opposite each other when ordering the three main parts.
</gallery>
* '''STEP 16B: Put Hook-and-loop on Cap''' Peel and stick on the "hook" side of a 1" piece of hook-and-loop on each flat circular decoration holder on the cap.
* '''STEP 16C: Decorate''' If desired, use a permanent marker to color the Vorpal "V" on top of the Cap. Oil markers work well. On light colors of plastic a black permanent marker will also work.
* '''STEP 16D: Put Cap on the Hexapod'''
**Screw the cap on the robot by lining up the tabs with the matching slots in the rim of the base. Turn the cap clockwise to lock it in place. IMPORTANT: Do not press down on the robot to insert the cap when the robot is under power standing on its legs! You can damage the leg motors by doing this. It is best to turn the robot off, and either support the bottom of the Base with one hand and press the Cap on with the other, or set the Base down on the table top or floor with legs out to the sides so they don't take pressure.
**If the cap is too loose and swivels while the robot moves, this can be fixed by putting a bit of tape on the cap's flaps to make them a little thicker. The tightness of the cap depends a lot on printer settings, over- or under-extrusion, etc.

====STEP 17: Warning Label====
There are self-stick choking hazard warning labels and also several pinch point warning labels in the hexapod parts bag. Peel the backing off one choking hazard lable and place it on the bottom of the robot, near the center. Retain the second label for the gamepad. The pinch point warnings should be placed around the body of the robot, above the legs, in visible positions. Depending on what kind of plastic you're using, they might or might not stick well. If they don't stick, use glue (such as cyanoacrilate "super glue" or even hot glue) to secure them. The warning labels are not optional! They are necessary for safety. The motors are powerful and can snap your fingers like a twig, or cause severe pinch injuries, sprains, or bruises.

==== Step 18: Trimming the Servos ====
When you assembled the servo horns onto the servos, you probably were not able to get them all to come out exactly at a 90 degree angle. That's not your fault: the servo horns only have 22 possible positions in which they can be installed, so at best you can come within plus or minus 8 degrees of perfection.

Now that you have the gamepad working, you can make fine adjustments to the servo positions using "Trim Mode". In this special gamepad mode, you can adjust all the servos to within a fraction of a degree. These adjustments are saved in the robot's EEPROM, which is memory on the Nano that retains data even when powered off. So, you only need to trim once.

Complete instructions on how to use trim mode are in the wiki page: [[Vorpal The Hexapod Trim Mode Guide]]. That guide was written for the smaller robot, but the instructions are identical for the Gigapod.

NOTE: although this step is optional, it is strongly recommended because your robot will walk straighter and all the servos will share equally in lifting the robot's weight, which will make them last longer.

====Step 19: Assembling Eye Decorations====
Peel and stick a piece of "loop" from the supplied hook and loop fasteners on the back of the two eye pieces. This allows you to stick the eyes on the Cap's matching "hook" areas.

NOTE: There are extra hook and loop circles included in your kit. You can create your own attachments, nameplates, etc. using these.

==Electrical Connections: Robot==

===NOTES ON JUMPER WIRES===

====Wire Lengths====
There are two different lengths of female-female Dupont jumper wires used to make most connections. The longer ones (20cm) are only used for the Hexapod's accessory port connections. The shorter ones are used for all the connections on the Gamepad and all the connections on the Hexapod between the Arduino Nano, Servo controller and Bluetooth module.

====Wire Color Conventions====

Please follow these conventions when selecting wire colors:
* For +5V, Vin, and similar positive voltage connections, use either RED or ORANGE.
* For GND and other negative electrical connections, use BLACK or BROWN.
* For the connectors that sit at the mouth of the accessory port (used for optional sensors) colors are suggested below in the instructions. By following these suggestions you will make your life easier when connecting sensors!
* For all other connections, you can use any color you want, it's arbitrary.

====If Jumper Wires Are Too Loose====
Sometimes you will find a wire whose connector does not grip the pin well enough. It might fall off very easily or just by gravity alone. If that happens, you have a few options:
* There are extra wires in your kit. If you find a wire that's too loose, just use a different wire.
* Using the hex key, you can put the jumper housing on a flat surface then press on the metal showing through the plastic connector, which will tighten up the jumper wire's grip. Don't go too overboard on pressing though or you might make it too hard to insert.
* Alternatively, you could use electrical tape after inserting all the wires on a module (such as the Nano) to effectively attach together all the little plastic female connector housings. In that way, the connectors that do grip will help hold in the ones that are too loose. Some people also like using hot glue for this purpose. (Personally, I don't like using hot glue, as it makes it harder to change connections if you hooked something up incorrectly.)

===NANO PIN CONNECTIONS===
[[File:Megapod-Nano-Connections-v1.JPG|thumb|600px|right|Diagram of Nano connections for the Hexapod. Jumpers marked AP are routed to the Accessory Port for use with add-ons like sensors. Click for larger image.]]
* ''Digital IO Pins:''
** D0, D1 are reserved because they are used for uploading programs to the robot, so nothing will be connected there.
** D2, D3 No connection.
** D4 Buzzer Signal (white wire)
** D5 through D13 No connection. These pins are reserved for future expansion.

* ''Analog Pins:''
** A0 Potentiometer signal (white wire)
** A1 Potentiometer Power (red wire)
** A2 Potentiometer Ground (black wire)
** A3 No connection.
** A4 Servo Controller SDA
** A5 Servo Controller SCL
** A6, A7 No connection.

* ''Power Pins:''
** +5V pin on Nano connects to any of the +5V RED wires coming from the BEC on the power distribution harness.
** GND pin on Nano connects to any of the GND BLACK wires coming from the BEC on the power distribution harness.

===Servo Driver Power Pins===
* Port 0 RED pin on the Servo Driver connects to any of the +5V RED wires coming from the BEC on the power distribution harness.
* Port 0 BLACK GND pin on the Servo Driver connects to any of the GND BLACK wires coming from the BEC on the power distribution harness.

=== Bluetooth Module Power ===
* +5V on HC05 connects to any RED Dupont connector coming off the BEC.
* GND on HC05 connects to any BLACK Dupont connector coming off the BEC.

=== Buzzer Power ===
* Plug the buzzer into the unused port 15 on the servo driver, making sure the red and black wires on the buzzer power match the red and black rows of pins on the servo driver.

=== Servo Driver ===
[[File:Megapod-ServoDriverConnections.jpg|thumb|600px|right|Diagram of Servo Controller pins you will use in this project. Each servo motor has a 3 wire connector that should be plugged into the corresponding servo number extension connector in the power distribution harness. The white wires coming out of the harness in groups of four should be connected to the yellow line or ports, matching the number ranges to port numbers. Note that the black and red rows of pins are not used, power is provided to the servos through the power distribution harness. Click for larger image.]]
* Connect the 12 servos to power distribution harness connectors marked with port numbers corresponding to the servo marking (0 to 11). Make sure the signal wire (yellow) is oriented correctly and matches the yellow plastic header pin.
* Connect the groups of four white wires which are marked with servo port numbers to the Servo Driver yellow pins, matching the Servo Driver pin number to the port numbers written on the 4-pin Dupont connectors coming out of the power distribution harness.
* Connect one of the +5V RED regulated BEC outputs to the RED port 0 pin of the Servo Driver. Connect one of the GND black pins coming out of the BEC to the BLACK port 0 GND pin on the Servo Driver.
* On one short side of the Servo Controller you will find a VCC and V+ pin right next to each other. Use a shunt (small black connector that goes over two pins) to connect those together if one is not already installed. Without this shunt the Servo Driver will not work.
* SDA and SCL go to A4 and A5 on the Nano, respectively.



== Building the Gamepad ==
The gamepad for Gidget the Gigapod is identical to the Gamepad for Vorpal The Hexapod (and also Max the Megapod).

Please see instructions on [[Vorpal_The_Hexapod_Building_Instructions#Building_the_Gamepadd|the Vorpal Hexapod Gamepad Assembly instructions]].

{{Gigapod Quick Links}}

Gidget The Gigapod Assembly Instructions

2021-03-19T15:21:28Z

Vorpalwiki: /* STEP 4A: Assemble Boot and Wheel */

==LIMITED AVAILABILITY==

Our kits for this project are special order at this time. Allow two weeks for us to ship. Because the parts are relatively heavy, shipping to areas outside the USA is expensive. For makers outside the USA, you may want to try to acquire the parts locally. But beware of subsitutions! Walking robots have very precise requirements and any substitutions of parts may cause the project not to function as expected.

Warning: The 3D printed parts for this project consume a lot of plastic and the print (on our own printers) is over 200 hours for all the parts. (It's not 200 hours straight, it's multiple print jobs each running 6 to 16 hours.) You shouldn't attempt this unless you're prepared for long print times and your printer is well tuned to make failures rare.

NEW: our Megapod and Gigapod kits are now standard with the "Quickbuild" electrical system. This cuts over an hour off the build time.

==Gidget The Gigapod Construction==
[[File:Giga-Mega-Hexa-Stacked.jpg|right|thumb|Gigapod, Megapod, Hexapod relative sizes]]
Gidget The Gigapod is a very large, 3d printed, hexapod robot. This page gives complete instructions for building this project. If you are new to 3d printing, you probably don't want to start with this one, though. Please consider our smaller [[Vorpal The Hexapod]] project instead.
==BILL OF MATERIALS (BOM) FOR GIDGET THE GIGAPOD==
===Notes on Sourcing Parts Yourself===
* These instructions assume you have purchased a kit from us (kits are currently a special order item). If you are sourcing your own parts, please be aware of the following additional information:
**If you are sourcing your own parts, you need to build the power distribution connector assembly. This is identical to the power distribution system for [[Max The Megapod]]. For diagrams see [[Max The Megapod Battery/Switch Construction]] except that it uses an XT60 connector instead of Tamaya for the large battery, and it uses a 30 amp fuse instead of a 15 amp fuse. This will take about 2 hours of soldering and labelling work.
**Also see important information on that page if you are sourcing your own BEC.
**If you are sourcing your own Bluetooth modules, please be aware that you will need to configure them to auto-pair and to have a UART speed of 38400 BAUD. Every module brand's firmware is a bit different so it's not possible for us to give you universal instructions on how to program them. We assume that if you source your own parts you are familiar with how to configure Bluetooth modules using AT-commands. (You can find tutorials online or videos on youtube, but like we said, different modules may not exactly match instructions you will find so be prepared to fiddle around a bit). Please do not ask our customer support for help on this topic. We sell pre-configured modules that auto-pair on boot for a very reasonable price.
**If you are sourcing your own Arduino Nano modules, you will need to flash the robot and gamepad code on them. You can find the latest stable release of code at the [https://tinyurl.com/VORPALFILES Vorpal Hexapod Public Dropbox folder]. The source code tree is posted in our github repository, but the top of that tree may not be stable. Note: there is currently no difference in software between the large and small versions of the hexapod other than a single #define called HEXSIZE. For the gigapod, this should be set to 2.
* Please be very careful about substitutions. You might think you can substitute cheaper parts for the ones specified here. Don't bet on it. Walking robots are extremely difficult to design, and we've chosen each part for a good reason. For example, if you try to substitute cheaper servos you are very likely to find that they don't provide enough torque for the robot to stand up, or they burn out within minutes due to being over-stressed. If you substitute a different battery voltage, you'll either fry the servos or they won't have enough torque. It took 1,000 hours of work to design the smaller hexapod on which this one is based, then another 500 hours of redesign, testing, and tuning to get the big version working well. If you want to try substitutions, okay, but please don't expect it to work without many hours of adjustments and testing.
* Full kits of parts as well as individual parts will be available on [http://store.vorpalrobotics.com The Vorpal Robotics Store]. If you are new to Arduino and robotics we strongly recommend you purchase a kit instead of trying to self-source parts (and truthfully, if you're not experienced with this kind of project you really should build the smaller [[Vorpal The Hexapod]] kit first. NOTE: kits will not be available until approximately Fall 2020 due to delays in getting parts from China due to the virus pandemic.
* Our kits cut 4 to 5 hours off the build time, bringing it to typically 2 to 3 or so hours. The kits have all soldering done, programs are already loaded on the Nanos, Bluetooth modules are properly configured, and you know you have all the right parts to work together. About half the people who self-source parts end up buying parts that are incorrect or are so cheap that they will quickly fail (and they end up spending more money and far more time than if they had simply bought a kit to start with!)

=== ROBOT BOM ===
[[File:Choking-Hazard-Image.jpg|right|350px]]
[[File:PinchPoint-Warning.JPG|right|350px]]

* ''Electronics:''
** Passive Piezo Buzzer module and 3 wire cable (see image) [[File:Passive-Piezo-Buzzer-Module.jpg|right|thumb|Passive Piezo Buzzer Module]]
** Arduino Nano, 5V, 16 mHz, ATMEGA328 or similar (marked RM in our kit to indicate it is pre-loaded with Gigapod robot software)
** Rotary potentiometer, 10K Ohms, 6mm shaft diameter, with 3 wires pre-soldered. Also, matching dial cap and nut. If you are self-sourcing see our instructions: [[Max The Megapod Battery/Switch Construction]]
** 1 x HC05 BlueTooth Module with F-F jumper wires for making connections (our kit electronics are pre-wired for you)
** 1 x Servo Controller module (Adafruit 16-channel 12-bit I2C PWM/Servo driver or Adafruit clone) with F-F jumper wires for making connections, plus 1 two-pin shunt tying V+ to VCC
** 12 x DS5160 SSG 180 degree, 60 kg-cm torque servo motors with metal servo horns. Be sure you order the 180 degree version, these servos also come in a 270 degree version.
** 1 x Power distribution wiring harness with DPST on/off switch, Fuse, XT60 battery connector, 3A 5V BEC, and servo extension connectors. If you are self-sourcing see our wiring instructions: [[Max The Megapod Battery/Switch Construction|Circuit Diagrams]]. (The battery/switch circuit for the Gigapod is identical to that of the Megapod except it uses an XT60 connector for the large battery and it uses a 30 amp fuse instead of a 15 amp fuse.)
* ''3D Printed Parts:''
** 6 Robot Base Parts and bottom plate to hold the parts together.
** 4 Cap parts which screw together to form the cap of the robot.
** 6 x Legs
** 6 x Feet that will be assembled with wheels.
** 6 x TPU Boots to provide better traction. These should be printed in TPU or other flexible plastics so they absorb some impact during walking.
** 12 x Servo Stops. These parts hold the servos in their compartments both in the base and the legs.
** 12 x Servo Bearing Pegs. These insert into the servo compartments and provide a secure place for the bearings to sit.
** 12 x Leg Hinge halves with Leg Hinge Rings. The rings stop layer separation issues under stress.
** 1 x Electronics Caddy to hold Arduino Nano
** 1 x Electronics Caddy to hold the Servo Driver
** 2 x Eye/glasses Decoration
** 8 x 1 inch diameter hook-and-loop self stick circles to attach of eyes and other decorations
* ''Screws and Fasteners''
** 12 x Nylon bolts 1/4-20 x 2" long. These can be partially threaded. Note that it is important for these to be made of nylon for weight savings. These are used to secure servos in place using the servo stopper part.
** 12 x M3x20mm button head screws (with matching flat washers and external tooth washers) to secure servo arms to servo through the screw hole in the hinge.
** 6 x #6-32 x 1.75" long cap screws plus nuts to attach boots onto the end of the leg
** 6 x #6-32 x 1" long cap screws plus nuts to provide axles for the boot wheels.
** 6 x 1/4-20 x 1.25" long cap screw plus nylox locking nuts for holding the BASE parts together
** 6 x 1/4-20 x 3/4" long cap screw plus nylox locking nuts for holding the BOTTOM onto the BASE assembly
** 6 x #6-32 cap screws plus nylox locking nuts for holding the CAP and CAP TOPPER parts together
** 6 x #6-32 cap screws plus nylox locking nuts for holding the LEG HINGES together. Note that the smaller versions of the robot depend on a snap-together system to hold the hinges together, but the larger Gigapod requires a screw through the center hole to ensure the hinges remain together.
** If you are self-sourcing and building your own electrical system, you will also need 10 x #6-32 x 1/2" screws to hold the power distribution plastic covers together. If you buy our kit, these are already installed on the wiring harness.
* ''Miscellaneous Mechanical Parts:''
** 12 x 6202ZZ Double Metal Seal Bearings 15x35x11mm for leg hinges
** 12 x 608zz Skate Bearings with nylon coated wheel, dimensions: 27.5mm diameter wheel, 8mm inner diameter on bearing, 8mm wide.
* ''Tools Required (Not included in kit)''
** Hex drivers for the various sized bolts and screws.
** Needle nose pliers are useful for holding the nuts while assembling BASE and CAP parts.
** 3 x Pinch Point Stickers. Place these around the robot Base to warn onlookers not to touch the robot. Some kinds of plastic may not stick well to the adhesive, you may need to secure with hot glue or superglue or similar.
* ''Batteries and Chargers''
** The Gigapod uses a 4200 mAH (a little more is okay but don't go too high due to weight considerations) 7-cell NIMH battery (8.4 Volts) with male XT60 connector and compatible charger, such as: [https://www.batteryspace.com/nimhbatterypack84v4200mahhumpbatterypacksforrctraxxasandlosietc.aspx BatterySpace 42000 mAH 8.4 V NIMH] (We use that one for demos with the 14 gauge wire option, and we solder on an XT60 male connector in-house. You get about 30 minutes of run time with this battery.)
**The Gigapod also requires one 9v battery, we recommend NIMH or LI-ON rechargeable with compatible charger.
** The gamepad takes any kind of standard 9v rectangular batter, either rechargeable or disposable work fine. These are commonly available from many sources. We recommend rechargeable NIMH or LI-ON 9v batteries with compatible charger.
** Note that we do not provide batteries or chargers with our kits due to licenses required to ship batteries.
NOTE ON BATTERY SAFETY: Never leave batteries in the Gigapod or gamepad after use. If either one gets turned on accidentally, overdraining the battery may damage or destroy it. As soon as the Gigapod has trouble moving or sags under its own weight, immediately stop and replace with fresh batteries.

=== GAMEPAD BOM AND ASSEMBLY ===
The gamepad for Gidget the Gigapod is identical to the gamepad for Vorpal The Hexapod. See instructions for the gamepad here: [[Vorpal_The_Hexapod_Building_Instructions#Building_the_Gamepadd|Vorpal The Hexapod Gamepad Assembly instructions]]

==Printing the Plastic Parts==

This section assumes you have basic familiarity with 3D printing and 3D printing terminology. If not, you might want to reference online materials such as youtube videos or information from your 3D printer manufacturer before attempting this project.

Please note: it takes over 200 hours to print this project. This is not a project for the faint of heart, or for people who are not experienced in 3d printing and have not tuned and maintained their printers. If you are a beginner at 3d printing, we strongly recommend that you start with our smaller [[Vorpal the Hexapod]] project. It's a 16 hour print, requires a lot less bridging, and less than a tenth as much practice.

===OBTAINING THE STL FILES===
We have posted the STL files to [http://www.thingiverse.com Thingiverse]. Search for "Gidget the Gigapod" and they should pop right up.

Please help us by rating the Gidget the Gigapod project (or clicking on the LIKE button, COLLECT button, etc.)!

Please post your builds to places like Thingiverse, pictures to FaceBook, Instagram, etc., and videos of your robot to YouTube! This will help us grow and continue having the resources creating cool new projects for our community.

===MINIMUM PRINTER REQUIREMENTS===
*The bed size should be at least 275mm cube (about 11 inches cube). The largest parts are the six Base and the 3 Cap parts in the x and y directions, and in the Z direction the Leg is largest, so these are the limiting factor on bed size.
* For almost all parts, we recommend PLA PRO plastic (or similiar enhanced PLA plastics that may go under other names like PLA+). These are large parts and so PLA is preferred due it being resistant to warping.
* The boots part is best made of TPU plastic, or similar flexible plastics, to reduce the impact of walking on floors.
===AMOUNT OF PLASTIC FILAMENT===
* About 6 to 7 kg of PLA plastic are needed to print the entire robot and gamepad, assuming no print failures.
* About 200 grams of TPU (or similar flexible plastic) are needed to print the wheels. It is possible to print the wheels out of harder plastics but in that case they might scratch wooden floors, so we suggest TPU or some other flexible, soft plastic.
* The amount of plastic used does depend on plastic type and exact print settings though, so your mileage may vary.

===RECOMMENDED PLASTICS===
*ABS, PETG, and PLA all work well. However, because there are some very large parts, ABS may cause you some warping issues if you don't have a heated bed, enclosure, and a printer tuned well for large parts. PLA is generally easier and has fewer issues with corners peeling off the print bed.
*We use eSun PLA PRO for this project and for us it works very well. PLA PRO is a little more flexible and stronger than typical PLA. We have no problems with warping even on the largest parts.
*For the boots, we used Sainsmart TPU and it works very well. Other flexible plastics would probably also be fine.
*This project requires less flexibility than the smaller Vorpal The Hexapod project, so ABS is not at all required for this project.
===PRINTING TIPS===
This project has been finely tuned to make it easy to 3D print. No additional supports are required for any of the parts (there is a support built into the models for the CAP parts and there are tiny supports built into the hinge parts). In some cases you may want to use brims or rafts to help parts adhere to the print surface. These are large, long prints so using a brim for a little added safety is probably prudent.

There is some significant bridging with some spans up to 45mm (1.8"). It is important to tune your printer and make sure it can handle the bridging before attempting the large parts. A little sagging is ok and a drip or two can be easily removed, but you need decent ability to bridge. There are bridge testing and calibration models posted on sites like Thingiverse that may help you tune your printer before trying the big parts. There are numerous "3d printing tips" type postings on the internet that make suggestions for how to tune for features like bridging.

====PRINT SETTINGS====
We print using the following settings on a Lulzbot TAZ 6 with 0.5mm nozzle:
* 0.4 layer thickness (or whatever layer thickness is the largest that will work on your printer)
* 2mm walls (i.e. four perimeters for a 0.5mm nozzle)
* 1.6 mm top and bottom (i.e. four layers at 0.4mm layer height)
* 25% infill
* You can print with thinner layers if your printer does not support 0.4mm layers or if you want a more refined look, it will just take longer. If you have a large nozzle (0.8mm or more) you should be able to go with bigger layers and save a lot of print time. Please report your findings to us at support@vorpalrobotics.com so we can advise future Makers of this project.

====POST PRINT====
Other than removing brims/rafts, cap and hinge built in supports, and the occasional drip, there is not any special post-processing required after printing. Some of the big bridges might seem a little saggy but generally speaking there's enough tolerance that this won't cause an issue. The biggest bridges are mostly hidden inside the robot so they won't affect cosmetics.

====PRO TIPS====
*Do routine maintenance on your printer before printing the big parts: lubricate rods and lead screws, check bed leveling, replace nozzle if worn, do a calibration print, clean your print surface, etc. A few minutes of preparation will help you nail these prints and make a project you can be very proud of!
*Print the large parts (Base, Cap) at the ''start'' of new spools. The last thing you want is to run out of filament 95% of the way through a big part.
*Print the smallest parts (servo stops, hinge rings, Leg pegs, gamepad drawer) near the end of a spool.
*If you have a large format printer, it is tempting to kick off several large parts at once and let it run overnight. We would recommend against that--the chances of killing an entire spool of filament due to an overnight power hit or other failure is just not worth it. Take your time, do the big parts one by one. One or two during the day, one overnight. It will all get done soon enough. An extra few days won't matter in the long run.

== Building the Robot ==

You will need the following tools:
*Included in the kit:
** 2mm hex key. A 5/64 inch hex key will also work. This is in the Gigapod Parts bag.
** 7/64 hex key at least 6" long (150mm). It needs to be long enough to reach screws through access holes in the Base and Cap. This is in the Gigapod Parts Bag.
*Not included in the kit:
** Optional: A marker that can write on dark plastic and still be seen, such as Sharpie Metallic or Sharpie Oil markers (white and yellow work great on dark colored plastic, black or blue work well on light colored plastic). This can be used to make raised lettering on the robot and gamepad more visible.
** Optional: Needle nose pliers can be helpful for holding nuts in place while tightening screws.
** Optional: Slip-joint pliers can be helpful for forcing the skate bearings into their press-fit locations on the Leg Hinges

===IMPORTANT WARNING: POWERFUL SERVOS MAY INJURE YOU===
The motors on Gidget the Gigapod are very powerful compared to the smaller Vorpal the Hexapod (or even Max the Megapod) projects. It is possible for the leg motions to pinch fingers or even possibly break fingers or cause other injuries, possibly severe. When powering on the Gigapod you must keep fingers clear of places where the legs/hips can come together. You should mount the included "Pinch Point" stickers around the Base of the robot to warn others. During public demonstrations, keep adults and especially children away from the robot when it's operating. Little kids will definitely try to touch the robot and could be injured, keep them at a safe distance. In case of electrical issues the legs may move unexpectedly. Turning the power off will release the motors. Never carry the Gigapod when it's powered on. For safety, I disconnect the battery when transporting, just to prevent the possibility that the power switch will get hit accidentally.

If the robot is moving in an out of control manner, use a pencil, book, or rod to hit the power switch from a safe distance. The switch is large and easy to turn off.

You must at all times take standard precautions that are typical with large robotic projects.

If you are building your own electrical system please do not skimp by skipping adding the fuse to the circuit. This project may draw significant amperage and fuse protection is required.

===Step by Step Instructions===
PLEASE NOTE: These instructions are currently in draft state, and I've used diagrams from Max the Megapod here temporarily. The construction is very similar, although you will note some discrepancies such as the BASE for the Megapod comes in 3 parts while in the Gigapod it comes in 6 parts. Still, the construction is analogous. I'll be replacing diagrams for the parts that are not the same first.

====STEP 1: Build the BASE====
* STEP 1A: Take the six outer parts of the base (STL files: Base-1, Base-2, ... Base-6) and arrange them to form the "bowl" of the base. Make sure the servo numbers are in the right order as you move clockwise around the six parts! It's possible to assemble them in the wrong order if you don't check.
* STEP 1B: There are matching screw holes positioned on little rectangular outcroppings on the inside of the top ring, these require screws to bind the three parts together. Use six 1/4-20 by 1.25 inch socket head screws, toothed lock washers, and nuts to secure them. There is an access hole in the rim of the robot to allow the hex key to turn the screw. You may need to hold the nut in place using needle-nose pliers. Repeat for all six sections.
<gallery mode=packed heights=250>
File:Base-Exploded-View.JPG|Line up the six main pieces of the base, ensuring the servo numbers are in order.
File:Access-Hole-In-Base.jpg|Small access holes are strategically placed around the base so the hex key can turn the screws to secure the three base pieces.
File:Securing-Base-Sections.jpg|Use the access hole in the Base parts to secure screws that bind the three base parts together.
File:Megapod-Foam-Squares.jpg|Peel the backing off the foam squares that came with the kit and attach them to the bottom of the base. Stack them on top of each other.
</gallery>
* STEP 1C: Take the Base Bottom part and place it inside the base. There is a nub in one place that will only allow it to be inserted in one orientation. Use six 1/4-20 by 3/4 inch screws with nuts and lock washers in the outer ring of holes in the bottom to secure it to the base. The head of the screw should be on the outside of the robot and nuts should secure the screws on the inside.
* STEP 1D: Take the foam squares that came in your kit and stick them on the bottom of the robot, reasonably centered. These foam pads will reduce the shock and stress on the robot when it goes down to the floor on certain dance moves. Without these pads, the robot leg servos and body structure may undergo too much stress.

====STEP 2: Install the electrical system in the base====
* STEP 2A: Take the potentiometer and remove its dial cap, then unscrew the nut and set these items aside for now (don't lose them). Push the potentiometer shaft from the inside of the chassis into the hole that is surrounded by the markings "STOP", "TST", etc. The wires coming out of the potentiometer should be pointing down. The little metal nub sticking out of the potentiometer should match with a tiny rectangular hole that is near the marking "TST". Put the retaining nut on the potentiometer, hand tighten first and then give it just another half turn or so with pliers if desired. Turn the knob all the way counter-clockwise, then insert the knob so it points to the letter "O" in the word "STOP".
* STEP 2B: Take the large DPST on/off switch (which is attached to the battery holder and power distribution assembly) and thread the switch wires from the inside through the gap at the bottom of the switch hole (see picture). Carefully push the wires one by one through the slot below the switch hole. Once all the wires are through, push the switch into the switch hole. It should be oriented with the "1" to the right. Press carefully into the hole, it should snap firmly in place.
** If the fit is too tight to get the switch in place, lightly sanding or filing the hole to make it a tiny bit larger should work.
<gallery mode=packed heights=200>
File:Switch-Insert-1.jpg|Thread the switch and its wires through the Base, there is an opening under the switch hole.
File:Switch-Insert-2.jpg|Bring the wires up through the small gap below the switch hole. Be careful with the large wires, they require some pressure or some flexing of the plastic to get through.
File:Switch-Insert-3.jpg|All the wires are now coming through the switch hole.
File:Switch-Insert-4.jpg|Press the switch into the hole, it should snap into place. The "1" should be to the right.
</gallery>

====STEP 3: Insert servos in the chassis====
* Next, insert the servo into the chassis as shown in the diagrams. As you insert the servo into the chassis, slowly press it straight into place until it fully seats. Use a servo stopper and one 1/4-20 by 2 inch nylon hex bolts to secure the servos in place. The nylon bolts should retain in the holes even though there are no threads and no nut used. If you find them working themselves loose, you could wrap a bit of electrical tape around the end of the screw to make the fit tighter.
<gallery mode=packed heights=250>
File:Servo-in-Base-2.jpg|Insert each servo with the wire coming out away from the robot as shown here. Press in completely.
File:Servo-in-Base-3.jpg|Insert a servo stopper (shown in red) and secure with nylong bolt. Thread the wire into the body of the robot through the hole as shown.
</gallery>

====STEP 4: Build the Legs====
=====STEP 4A: Assemble Boot and Wheel=====
Because of the large size of the Gigapod, the leg is assembled using several parts (whereas it is a single part with the smaller hexapod designs). The extra part that is attached at the tip of the main leg piece is called the boot. Each boot is tipped by a TPU wheel. This reduces friction when the robot needs to stand, but provides traction when legs move laterally to walk. The TPU wheel is secured by a #6-32 x 1 inch screw, lock washer, and nut as shown in the diagram below. The entire boot/wheel assembly is attached to the main leg using two bushings, one of which has a hex-shaped indentation to retain a #6-32 nut.
<gallery mode=packed heights=350>
File:Gigapod-Leg-Assembly-Wheel-Boot.PNG|Parts for Boot and Wheel. The boot goes over the main leg and is secured with two leg bushings and a #6-32 1" screw, nut, and lock washer. The wheel is attached between two wheel bushings and is secured with a #6-32 x 1" screw, lock washer, and nut.
File:Gigapod-Leg-Assembly-Bearing-Peg.PNG|Insert Bearing Peg (red). The servo will lock it in place, there are no screws required.
</gallery>

=====STEP 4B: Insert Servos in Legs=====
The technique is very similar to inserting the servo into the chassis.
*Insert the servo straight into the leg socket so that the wire is coming out of the servo facing away from the plastic leg and the face of the servo with the shaft and servo horn goes into the open faced side of the leg, as shown in the diagram.
*Secure the servo in place with a servo stopper and one 2 inch nylong bolt as you did with the hip servos in the base.
*The servos in the legs are called the "knee" servos. Each leg has a higher number on it, this is the knee number, they run from 6 to 11. Again, write this number on the black connector at the end of the servo wire. PRO TIP: For 6 and 9, underline the number so you don't read them upside down!
*Cut a 12 inch length of braided wire covering. Seal the threads at the end using a lighter for a couple seconds to melt them. Be careful not to set on fire. Thread the knee servo wires through the braided wire covering. This will help protect the servo wires, and also makes the robot look better. You may need to use electrical tape to secure the end of the braided covering to one end of the servo wire.
<gallery mode=packed heights=200>
File:Servo-Insert-Leg-v2.png|Insert Servos in Legs
File:Servo-Leg-Inserted-v2.png|Push until fully seated
File:Servo-Stopper-In-Leg.jpg|Use the servo stopper and two screws to lock the servo in place
</gallery>

*Thread each leg servo wire (with braided covering) into the bottom wire guide slot on the chassis. Each leg servo should be matched with a hip servo plus 6. The legs are marked with the hip number near the top and the knee number below that. For example, the leg marked 6 should be threaded through the wire guide on hip servo 0, leg 7 goes with hip 1, leg 8 goes with hip 2, etc. Add 6 to the hip number to get the leg number.

====STEP 5: Plug in the Servos====
Thread the servo wires into the chassis using the routing holes, as you did with the hip servos. The power distribution harness has marked servo extension sockets for each servo. Each hip servo is marked on the BASE showing its number. the knee servo for each hip is numbered six higher than its corresponding hip. For example, hip servo number 3 will be attached to knee servo number 9, because 3+6=9.

When plugging the servos in, make sure you match the light yellow servo wire to the white servo extension wire, and the dark brown servo wire should match with the black servo extension wire.

====STEP 6: Make Robot Electrical Connections====

If you are self-sourcing, use the diagram below in the electrical section to make the rest of the robot's electrical connections. You'll be using the Robot Arduino Nano (marked "R"), the Servo Driver, Bluetooth Module marked "S", the buzzer, and a bunch of jumper wires. Make sure you use the longer jumper wires for the SDA and SCL connections between the Nano and the Servo Driver.
If you bought a kit from us, all connections are already made, other than plugging the servos into the marked servo extension connectors.

====STEP 7: Assemble the leg hinges====
[[File:Servo-Bracket-Alignment-v1.png|thumb|350px|right|Align the leg hinges as shown here. The bumps (see arrows) should both be near each other when properly aligned. Hold one in each hand with the ends of the U shape between thumb and forefinger.]]
Each leg hinge is composed of two identical U-shaped parts. Take one in each hand and align the two so that the bump (shown in the diagram at the right) are both near each other. Turn one 90 degrees with respect to the other.
*Gently squeeze each piece between thumb and forefinger, which causes the little jaws in the center to open up slightly. Work the two halves together. Keep squeezing harder until the ends slide into place.
*If you used PLA and are finding it hard to bend, briefly soaking the pieces in very hot tap water has been reported to make it easier. Take care not to scald yourself, the water does not have to be boiling, just hot from the tap. You only need to dip the ends that will lock over each other, not the parts you will squeeze. Use caution.
*At this stage, you may notice that the parts are loosely clamped on each other (this depends on plastic used and whether your printer over- or under-extrudes). Don't worry! When you place the leg hinges over a servo, the servo will spread it apart and they will lock together more tightly.
* Use a #6-32 1" screw and matching nut through the center hole of the two joined leg hinges to secure the hinges further. (This is necessary because the gigapod's hinges are under much more stress than in the megapod or hexapod.)
*Insert a 6202ZZ bearing into the socket on one side of the leg hinges. Pliers may be necessary to press them into place. Make sure you clean up any drips inside the recessed area for the skate bearing before attempting to insert the bearings. If you have a lot of trouble getting them in, you could heat up that part of the hinge in hot tap water to soften the plastic, or use a butane lighter (carefully! don't stop moving it) to soften the plastic before inserting the bearing.

====STEP 8: Attach Leg Hinges====
The leg hinges connect the hips to the knees. They only go on one way. If you made sure to align the bumps when assembling the leg hinges, this will result in correct orientation of all legs.
*First place the end that matches the servo horn on about halfway. Make sure the servo horn slides under the little pocket at the end of recessed area that accepts the horn.
*Very slightly bend the U shaped piece while pulling the skate bearing side over the hemispherical bump on the other side of the servo holding area. It's a little easier to do the knees (servos mounted to legs) first, followed by the hips (servos on base).
*NOTE: It will be a tight fit, but it should not be excessively difficult to push the hinge over the bearing.
*When completed, double check to make sure the servo horn went into the covered pocket at the end of its recessed area. This pocket keeps the horn from slipping out of the hinge during stressful operations.

====STEP 9: Enclose the electronics modules in their caddies====

Now things look pretty messy with all those wires hanging loose, let's clean it up by stowing the Arduino Nano, Bluetooth module and Servo Driver in their caddies. The caddies will keep them safe by making sure they can't short out against each other or touch screws, etc.
* '''STEP 9A: Insert Caddy Bars''' Insert the electronics caddy bars as shown in the diagrams below. Notice carefully how they are inserted. Don't insert them upside down, the little hump should be facing inward toward the caddy. You may need to slightly squeeze the forked section at the end to work it into the hole. Once inside, it may be difficult to remove because it will snap into place, so be sure you're putting it in the right way.
<gallery mode=packed heights=300>
File:Insert-Caddy-Bar-1.jpg|Insertion of the caddy bar into the Nano caddy. Notice the orientation, don't put the bar in upside down. The same technique is used for the Servo Driver Caddy.
</gallery>
* '''STEP 9B: Insert the Arduino Nano into its caddy''' Carefully insert the Nano as shown, making sure you don't pull out any of the wires. You may need to wiggle the caddy bar from side to side a bit so that components can slide past it during insertion. Notice that the end of the Nano that has the USB port must go in last.

<gallery mode=packed heights=250>
File:Insert-Nano-In-Caddy-1.jpg|Insert the Nano in the orientation shown.
File:Insert-Nano-In-Caddy-2.jpg|You may need to wiggle it a bit or press on the bar to work it into place.
File:Insert-Nano-In-Caddy-3.jpg|Note how the USB port is accessible through the top after full insertion.
</gallery>

* '''STEP 9C: Insert the Servo Driver into its caddy''' Carefully insert the Servo Driver as shown, making sure you don't pull out any of the wires. You may need to wiggle the caddy bar from side to side a bit so that components can slide past it during insertion. Notice that the end of the Servo controller with wires sticking out of it must go in last.

<gallery mode=packed heights=200>
File:Insert-ServoDriver-In-Caddy-1.jpg|Insert the Servo Driver in the orientation shown.
File:Insert-ServoDriver-In-Caddy-2.jpg|You may need to wiggle it a bit or press on the bar to work it into place.
File:Insert-ServoDriver-In-Caddy-3.jpg|Note that the end with the wires goes in last.
</gallery>

* '''STEP 9D: Insert the HC05 Bluetooth Module''' The diagrams here do not show the wires to make them easier to visualize. The HC05 Bluetooth module with a name beginning with "S" should be used for the robot. For example, the label will read something like "VORP S2944" (the number will differ). The one marked "M" will be used for the gamepad. Slide the HC05 into the side drawer as shown. When inserting, be careful not to pull out the wires, which will be a little tight. Work the wires into the little space provided so they stay clear of the robot's cap when it gets screwed on later.

<gallery mode=packed heights=250>
File:Insert-HC05-in-Caddy-1.jpg|Insert the HC05 into the side drawer of the Nano Caddy as shown.
File:Insert-HC05-in-Caddy-2.jpg|When fully inserted, the indicator light will still be visible through the small oval.
File:Insert-HC05-in-Caddy-3.jpg|The wires should be tucked into the little cavity near the pins of the HC05.
</gallery>

====STEP 10: Power up!====
Make sure the on/off switch is off, and the knob is turned to STOP. Attach the proper batteries (a 9v recharageable NIMH or LI-ON, and an 8.4 volt 4000 or more mAh NIMH with XT60 connector) and power on the robot using the on/off switch. You should hear a beep, a pause, then a second beep. The servos should all twitch into position. If the robot does not move at all, immediately turn the switch off and check your connections again. If some of the servos don't move then gently push them with power off to see if you can free them up. If they still won't move, try pushing them with power applied, but turn off the power within 30 seconds if they're locked up. If you can't get the servo to move it will need to be replaced.

[[File:Servo-Horn-Orientation.png|thumb|right|The servo horn should come straight out from the body at a 90 degree angle as shown here. Do not turn the servo shaft by hand until after it has moved under power!]]

====STEP 11: Insert Servo Horns====
The servo horns are all at random-ish angles right now. In this step we'll make them point in the right direction. The knee servos are not at 90 degrees when the knob is all the way counter clockwise, rather they are at a 30 degree standing angle.

We need to get them to 90 degrees so its easy to align the servo horn, and this is done by going into "Adjust Mode". Turn the knob very slightly clockwise until you hear a beep, then stop. After about one second you will see all the knee servos twitch. This is "adjust servo horn mode". All servos (knees and hips) are now at their halfway point, 90 degrees.

Now you need to take each single arm servo horn and carefully insert it on the shaft so that it is sticking straight out as shown in the figure. You will not always be able to make the horn come totally straight out. This is because there are only 22 little groves (splines) in each shaft, meaning you can in general only come within about 8 degrees of being at a perfect 90 degree angle. This amount of error is acceptable for now, just get it as close as you can. Later we'll use Trim Mode to make fine adjustments.

====STEP 12: Test Knee Positions====
Turn the knob fully counter clockwise (to STOP) and the robot will go into "stand still" mode. Place it on a level surface such as a table top. Do all of the legs touch the ground? If one or more legs don't touch the ground, you need to adjust the servo horn on the knee a little bit so it does touch. Gently pull off the servo bracket. Pull the servo horn off, and put it back on just a little bit moved so the leg would move closer to the ground. Put the servo bracket back on, and see how it looks. Do this until all legs are at least slightly touching the ground. Again, you can't necessarily be perfect due to the 8 degree increments the servo horns can be moved. But you should be able to be close enough that all legs at least slightly touch the ground.

====STEP 13: Insert Servo Screws====
Now that the legs are adjusted, you can insert the M3x12 screws (with M3 lock washers) into the servo horns to lock them in place. Note that you will NOT be using the screws that were in the little bag the servos came in, you'll be using the separate pack of screws, which are longer than the ones in the servo bag. Do not overtighten these screws, as you could possibly crack the servo brackets. Just turn the screws until you start to feel resistance, then turn a quarter turn more and stop.

====STEP 14: Test the Servos====
*'''STEP 14A: Using TST Mode'''
**To test whether every servo is working, put the robot on something that will lift its legs off the table top, but won't interfere with the legs (a small box or stack of books will work).
**Start with the knob on STOP, then slowly turn it clockwise. You'll hear one beep (Adjust mode), then a second beep (Test mode). Stop turning and the robot will go into "individual servo test mode". In this mode, every hip servo will move, one by one. When all the hips have moved, every leg will move, one by one. You should see every servo move, in order. If some don't move, check your connections. A common error is to plug a servo connector into the servo controller backwards (i.e. the brown wire is matched with the yellow pin instead of the black pin). If the servos do not move in a sensible order, that probably means you plugged a couple of servos into the wrong sockets in the electrical harness.

*'''STEP 14B: Test Using Demo Mode'''
**Ok, everything looks good, so time for a full test. Turn the knob to STOP, then put the robot on the floor, somewhere that has at least a few feet of room in each direction. (Caution: it's tempting to do this on a table top, but unless you have a huge table this is not advisable, Max will run pretty fast at some points during the demo.)
**Turn the knob to DEMO, and about one second later the robot will go through a series of movements to demonstrate some of the things it can do. The full demo only takes about 30 seconds, then repeats. Here, you are looking for the robot to, for example, be able to get back up off the floor after doing some of its dance moves.
**If the robot struggles to get off the floor, you may have a battery that is not fully charged, or there may be drips or other obstructions stopping some legs from moving fully. See the [[Vorpal Combat_Hexapod Troubleshooting Guide|Trouble Shooting Guide]] for more information about different kinds of issues that can occur. That guide was written for the small robot, but most of the things that can go wrong with the Gigapod are similar to the things that can go wrong with Vorpal The Hexapod.

====STEP 15: Store electronics and wires in the Base====
Carefully stow the caddies into the base, using any available convenient space. NOTE: Unlike the small hexapod and megapod, the Gigapod saves weight by not having any service access covers. This makes it look messier when the top is off, but the savings in weight was necessary to avoid servo stress.
<gallery mode=packed heights=250>
File:All-Electronics-Inserted-In-Base.jpg|Carefully stow the caddies into the base, being careful not to pull out any wires.
</gallery>

====STEP 16: Assemble the Cap====
*'''STEP 16A: Assemble the Four Cap Parts'''
**First assemble the three large pieces after removing the support coming out of the center. Be aware that there is a correct ordering to them, the two flaps that stick out near the bottom need to be opposite each other so the cap can slot into the Base and lock in place. Use #6-32 x 1 inch screws plus nylox locking nuts to secure the three parts together as shown. There are access holes around the rim that allow the hex key to reach the screws. Use nuts and locking washers to secure the screws.
**Secure the top of the cap onto the bottom three pieces using three 1 inch #6 socket screws and their associated nylox locking nuts.
<gallery mode=packed heights=250>
File:Cap-Exploded.JPG|Arrangement of the four Cap parts. Note that this diagram shows the support in place, this should actually be removed prior to assembly.
File:CAP-Assembly-order.JPG|Make sure the two flaps at the rim are opposite each other when ordering the three main parts.
</gallery>
* '''STEP 16B: Put Hook-and-loop on Cap''' Peel and stick on the "hook" side of a 1" piece of hook-and-loop on each flat circular decoration holder on the cap.
* '''STEP 16C: Decorate''' If desired, use a permanent marker to color the Vorpal "V" on top of the Cap. Oil markers work well. On light colors of plastic a black permanent marker will also work.
* '''STEP 16D: Put Cap on the Hexapod'''
**Screw the cap on the robot by lining up the tabs with the matching slots in the rim of the base. Turn the cap clockwise to lock it in place. IMPORTANT: Do not press down on the robot to insert the cap when the robot is under power standing on its legs! You can damage the leg motors by doing this. It is best to turn the robot off, and either support the bottom of the Base with one hand and press the Cap on with the other, or set the Base down on the table top or floor with legs out to the sides so they don't take pressure.
**If the cap is too loose and swivels while the robot moves, this can be fixed by putting a bit of tape on the cap's flaps to make them a little thicker. The tightness of the cap depends a lot on printer settings, over- or under-extrusion, etc.

====STEP 17: Warning Label====
There are self-stick choking hazard warning labels and also several pinch point warning labels in the hexapod parts bag. Peel the backing off one choking hazard lable and place it on the bottom of the robot, near the center. Retain the second label for the gamepad. The pinch point warnings should be placed around the body of the robot, above the legs, in visible positions. Depending on what kind of plastic you're using, they might or might not stick well. If they don't stick, use glue (such as cyanoacrilate "super glue" or even hot glue) to secure them. The warning labels are not optional! They are necessary for safety. The motors are powerful and can snap your fingers like a twig, or cause severe pinch injuries, sprains, or bruises.

==== Step 18: Trimming the Servos ====
When you assembled the servo horns onto the servos, you probably were not able to get them all to come out exactly at a 90 degree angle. That's not your fault: the servo horns only have 22 possible positions in which they can be installed, so at best you can come within plus or minus 8 degrees of perfection.

Now that you have the gamepad working, you can make fine adjustments to the servo positions using "Trim Mode". In this special gamepad mode, you can adjust all the servos to within a fraction of a degree. These adjustments are saved in the robot's EEPROM, which is memory on the Nano that retains data even when powered off. So, you only need to trim once.

Complete instructions on how to use trim mode are in the wiki page: [[Vorpal The Hexapod Trim Mode Guide]]. That guide was written for the smaller robot, but the instructions are identical for the Gigapod.

NOTE: although this step is optional, it is strongly recommended because your robot will walk straighter and all the servos will share equally in lifting the robot's weight, which will make them last longer.

====Step 19: Assembling Eye Decorations====
Peel and stick a piece of "loop" from the supplied hook and loop fasteners on the back of the two eye pieces. This allows you to stick the eyes on the Cap's matching "hook" areas.

NOTE: There are extra hook and loop circles included in your kit. You can create your own attachments, nameplates, etc. using these.

==Electrical Connections: Robot==

===NOTES ON JUMPER WIRES===

====Wire Lengths====
There are two different lengths of female-female Dupont jumper wires used to make most connections. The longer ones (20cm) are only used for the Hexapod's accessory port connections. The shorter ones are used for all the connections on the Gamepad and all the connections on the Hexapod between the Arduino Nano, Servo controller and Bluetooth module.

====Wire Color Conventions====

Please follow these conventions when selecting wire colors:
* For +5V, Vin, and similar positive voltage connections, use either RED or ORANGE.
* For GND and other negative electrical connections, use BLACK or BROWN.
* For the connectors that sit at the mouth of the accessory port (used for optional sensors) colors are suggested below in the instructions. By following these suggestions you will make your life easier when connecting sensors!
* For all other connections, you can use any color you want, it's arbitrary.

====If Jumper Wires Are Too Loose====
Sometimes you will find a wire whose connector does not grip the pin well enough. It might fall off very easily or just by gravity alone. If that happens, you have a few options:
* There are extra wires in your kit. If you find a wire that's too loose, just use a different wire.
* Using the hex key, you can put the jumper housing on a flat surface then press on the metal showing through the plastic connector, which will tighten up the jumper wire's grip. Don't go too overboard on pressing though or you might make it too hard to insert.
* Alternatively, you could use electrical tape after inserting all the wires on a module (such as the Nano) to effectively attach together all the little plastic female connector housings. In that way, the connectors that do grip will help hold in the ones that are too loose. Some people also like using hot glue for this purpose. (Personally, I don't like using hot glue, as it makes it harder to change connections if you hooked something up incorrectly.)

===NANO PIN CONNECTIONS===
[[File:Megapod-Nano-Connections-v1.JPG|thumb|600px|right|Diagram of Nano connections for the Hexapod. Jumpers marked AP are routed to the Accessory Port for use with add-ons like sensors. Click for larger image.]]
* ''Digital IO Pins:''
** D0, D1 are reserved because they are used for uploading programs to the robot, so nothing will be connected there.
** D2, D3 No connection.
** D4 Buzzer Signal (white wire)
** D5 through D13 No connection. These pins are reserved for future expansion.

* ''Analog Pins:''
** A0 Potentiometer signal (white wire)
** A1 Potentiometer Power (red wire)
** A2 Potentiometer Ground (black wire)
** A3 No connection.
** A4 Servo Controller SDA
** A5 Servo Controller SCL
** A6, A7 No connection.

* ''Power Pins:''
** +5V pin on Nano connects to any of the +5V RED wires coming from the BEC on the power distribution harness.
** GND pin on Nano connects to any of the GND BLACK wires coming from the BEC on the power distribution harness.

===Servo Driver Power Pins===
* Port 0 RED pin on the Servo Driver connects to any of the +5V RED wires coming from the BEC on the power distribution harness.
* Port 0 BLACK GND pin on the Servo Driver connects to any of the GND BLACK wires coming from the BEC on the power distribution harness.

=== Bluetooth Module Power ===
* +5V on HC05 connects to any RED Dupont connector coming off the BEC.
* GND on HC05 connects to any BLACK Dupont connector coming off the BEC.

=== Buzzer Power ===
* Plug the buzzer into the unused port 15 on the servo driver, making sure the red and black wires on the buzzer power match the red and black rows of pins on the servo driver.

=== Servo Driver ===
[[File:Megapod-ServoDriverConnections.jpg|thumb|600px|right|Diagram of Servo Controller pins you will use in this project. Each servo motor has a 3 wire connector that should be plugged into the corresponding servo number extension connector in the power distribution harness. The white wires coming out of the harness in groups of four should be connected to the yellow line or ports, matching the number ranges to port numbers. Note that the black and red rows of pins are not used, power is provided to the servos through the power distribution harness. Click for larger image.]]
* Connect the 12 servos to power distribution harness connectors marked with port numbers corresponding to the servo marking (0 to 11). Make sure the signal wire (yellow) is oriented correctly and matches the yellow plastic header pin.
* Connect the groups of four white wires which are marked with servo port numbers to the Servo Driver yellow pins, matching the Servo Driver pin number to the port numbers written on the 4-pin Dupont connectors coming out of the power distribution harness.
* Connect one of the +5V RED regulated BEC outputs to the RED port 0 pin of the Servo Driver. Connect one of the GND black pins coming out of the BEC to the BLACK port 0 GND pin on the Servo Driver.
* On one short side of the Servo Controller you will find a VCC and V+ pin right next to each other. Use a shunt (small black connector that goes over two pins) to connect those together if one is not already installed. Without this shunt the Servo Driver will not work.
* SDA and SCL go to A4 and A5 on the Nano, respectively.



== Building the Gamepad ==
The gamepad for Gidget the Gigapod is identical to the Gamepad for Vorpal The Hexapod (and also Max the Megapod).

Please see instructions on [[Vorpal_The_Hexapod_Building_Instructions#Building_the_Gamepadd|the Vorpal Hexapod Gamepad Assembly instructions]].

{{Gigapod Quick Links}}

Gidget The Gigapod Assembly Instructions

2021-03-19T15:12:27Z

Vorpalwiki: /* STEP 4A: Assemble Boot and Wheel */

==LIMITED AVAILABILITY==

Our kits for this project are special order at this time. Allow two weeks for us to ship. Because the parts are relatively heavy, shipping to areas outside the USA is expensive. For makers outside the USA, you may want to try to acquire the parts locally. But beware of subsitutions! Walking robots have very precise requirements and any substitutions of parts may cause the project not to function as expected.

Warning: The 3D printed parts for this project consume a lot of plastic and the print (on our own printers) is over 200 hours for all the parts. (It's not 200 hours straight, it's multiple print jobs each running 6 to 16 hours.) You shouldn't attempt this unless you're prepared for long print times and your printer is well tuned to make failures rare.

NEW: our Megapod and Gigapod kits are now standard with the "Quickbuild" electrical system. This cuts over an hour off the build time.

==Gidget The Gigapod Construction==
[[File:Giga-Mega-Hexa-Stacked.jpg|right|thumb|Gigapod, Megapod, Hexapod relative sizes]]
Gidget The Gigapod is a very large, 3d printed, hexapod robot. This page gives complete instructions for building this project. If you are new to 3d printing, you probably don't want to start with this one, though. Please consider our smaller [[Vorpal The Hexapod]] project instead.
==BILL OF MATERIALS (BOM) FOR GIDGET THE GIGAPOD==
===Notes on Sourcing Parts Yourself===
* These instructions assume you have purchased a kit from us (kits are currently a special order item). If you are sourcing your own parts, please be aware of the following additional information:
**If you are sourcing your own parts, you need to build the power distribution connector assembly. This is identical to the power distribution system for [[Max The Megapod]]. For diagrams see [[Max The Megapod Battery/Switch Construction]] except that it uses an XT60 connector instead of Tamaya for the large battery, and it uses a 30 amp fuse instead of a 15 amp fuse. This will take about 2 hours of soldering and labelling work.
**Also see important information on that page if you are sourcing your own BEC.
**If you are sourcing your own Bluetooth modules, please be aware that you will need to configure them to auto-pair and to have a UART speed of 38400 BAUD. Every module brand's firmware is a bit different so it's not possible for us to give you universal instructions on how to program them. We assume that if you source your own parts you are familiar with how to configure Bluetooth modules using AT-commands. (You can find tutorials online or videos on youtube, but like we said, different modules may not exactly match instructions you will find so be prepared to fiddle around a bit). Please do not ask our customer support for help on this topic. We sell pre-configured modules that auto-pair on boot for a very reasonable price.
**If you are sourcing your own Arduino Nano modules, you will need to flash the robot and gamepad code on them. You can find the latest stable release of code at the [https://tinyurl.com/VORPALFILES Vorpal Hexapod Public Dropbox folder]. The source code tree is posted in our github repository, but the top of that tree may not be stable. Note: there is currently no difference in software between the large and small versions of the hexapod other than a single #define called HEXSIZE. For the gigapod, this should be set to 2.
* Please be very careful about substitutions. You might think you can substitute cheaper parts for the ones specified here. Don't bet on it. Walking robots are extremely difficult to design, and we've chosen each part for a good reason. For example, if you try to substitute cheaper servos you are very likely to find that they don't provide enough torque for the robot to stand up, or they burn out within minutes due to being over-stressed. If you substitute a different battery voltage, you'll either fry the servos or they won't have enough torque. It took 1,000 hours of work to design the smaller hexapod on which this one is based, then another 500 hours of redesign, testing, and tuning to get the big version working well. If you want to try substitutions, okay, but please don't expect it to work without many hours of adjustments and testing.
* Full kits of parts as well as individual parts will be available on [http://store.vorpalrobotics.com The Vorpal Robotics Store]. If you are new to Arduino and robotics we strongly recommend you purchase a kit instead of trying to self-source parts (and truthfully, if you're not experienced with this kind of project you really should build the smaller [[Vorpal The Hexapod]] kit first. NOTE: kits will not be available until approximately Fall 2020 due to delays in getting parts from China due to the virus pandemic.
* Our kits cut 4 to 5 hours off the build time, bringing it to typically 2 to 3 or so hours. The kits have all soldering done, programs are already loaded on the Nanos, Bluetooth modules are properly configured, and you know you have all the right parts to work together. About half the people who self-source parts end up buying parts that are incorrect or are so cheap that they will quickly fail (and they end up spending more money and far more time than if they had simply bought a kit to start with!)

=== ROBOT BOM ===
[[File:Choking-Hazard-Image.jpg|right|350px]]
[[File:PinchPoint-Warning.JPG|right|350px]]

* ''Electronics:''
** Passive Piezo Buzzer module and 3 wire cable (see image) [[File:Passive-Piezo-Buzzer-Module.jpg|right|thumb|Passive Piezo Buzzer Module]]
** Arduino Nano, 5V, 16 mHz, ATMEGA328 or similar (marked RM in our kit to indicate it is pre-loaded with Gigapod robot software)
** Rotary potentiometer, 10K Ohms, 6mm shaft diameter, with 3 wires pre-soldered. Also, matching dial cap and nut. If you are self-sourcing see our instructions: [[Max The Megapod Battery/Switch Construction]]
** 1 x HC05 BlueTooth Module with F-F jumper wires for making connections (our kit electronics are pre-wired for you)
** 1 x Servo Controller module (Adafruit 16-channel 12-bit I2C PWM/Servo driver or Adafruit clone) with F-F jumper wires for making connections, plus 1 two-pin shunt tying V+ to VCC
** 12 x DS5160 SSG 180 degree, 60 kg-cm torque servo motors with metal servo horns. Be sure you order the 180 degree version, these servos also come in a 270 degree version.
** 1 x Power distribution wiring harness with DPST on/off switch, Fuse, XT60 battery connector, 3A 5V BEC, and servo extension connectors. If you are self-sourcing see our wiring instructions: [[Max The Megapod Battery/Switch Construction|Circuit Diagrams]]. (The battery/switch circuit for the Gigapod is identical to that of the Megapod except it uses an XT60 connector for the large battery and it uses a 30 amp fuse instead of a 15 amp fuse.)
* ''3D Printed Parts:''
** 6 Robot Base Parts and bottom plate to hold the parts together.
** 4 Cap parts which screw together to form the cap of the robot.
** 6 x Legs
** 6 x Feet that will be assembled with wheels.
** 6 x TPU Boots to provide better traction. These should be printed in TPU or other flexible plastics so they absorb some impact during walking.
** 12 x Servo Stops. These parts hold the servos in their compartments both in the base and the legs.
** 12 x Servo Bearing Pegs. These insert into the servo compartments and provide a secure place for the bearings to sit.
** 12 x Leg Hinge halves with Leg Hinge Rings. The rings stop layer separation issues under stress.
** 1 x Electronics Caddy to hold Arduino Nano
** 1 x Electronics Caddy to hold the Servo Driver
** 2 x Eye/glasses Decoration
** 8 x 1 inch diameter hook-and-loop self stick circles to attach of eyes and other decorations
* ''Screws and Fasteners''
** 12 x Nylon bolts 1/4-20 x 2" long. These can be partially threaded. Note that it is important for these to be made of nylon for weight savings. These are used to secure servos in place using the servo stopper part.
** 12 x M3x20mm button head screws (with matching flat washers and external tooth washers) to secure servo arms to servo through the screw hole in the hinge.
** 6 x #6-32 x 1.75" long cap screws plus nuts to attach boots onto the end of the leg
** 6 x #6-32 x 1" long cap screws plus nuts to provide axles for the boot wheels.
** 6 x 1/4-20 x 1.25" long cap screw plus nylox locking nuts for holding the BASE parts together
** 6 x 1/4-20 x 3/4" long cap screw plus nylox locking nuts for holding the BOTTOM onto the BASE assembly
** 6 x #6-32 cap screws plus nylox locking nuts for holding the CAP and CAP TOPPER parts together
** 6 x #6-32 cap screws plus nylox locking nuts for holding the LEG HINGES together. Note that the smaller versions of the robot depend on a snap-together system to hold the hinges together, but the larger Gigapod requires a screw through the center hole to ensure the hinges remain together.
** If you are self-sourcing and building your own electrical system, you will also need 10 x #6-32 x 1/2" screws to hold the power distribution plastic covers together. If you buy our kit, these are already installed on the wiring harness.
* ''Miscellaneous Mechanical Parts:''
** 12 x 6202ZZ Double Metal Seal Bearings 15x35x11mm for leg hinges
** 12 x 608zz Skate Bearings with nylon coated wheel, dimensions: 27.5mm diameter wheel, 8mm inner diameter on bearing, 8mm wide.
* ''Tools Required (Not included in kit)''
** Hex drivers for the various sized bolts and screws.
** Needle nose pliers are useful for holding the nuts while assembling BASE and CAP parts.
** 3 x Pinch Point Stickers. Place these around the robot Base to warn onlookers not to touch the robot. Some kinds of plastic may not stick well to the adhesive, you may need to secure with hot glue or superglue or similar.
* ''Batteries and Chargers''
** The Gigapod uses a 4200 mAH (a little more is okay but don't go too high due to weight considerations) 7-cell NIMH battery (8.4 Volts) with male XT60 connector and compatible charger, such as: [https://www.batteryspace.com/nimhbatterypack84v4200mahhumpbatterypacksforrctraxxasandlosietc.aspx BatterySpace 42000 mAH 8.4 V NIMH] (We use that one for demos with the 14 gauge wire option, and we solder on an XT60 male connector in-house. You get about 30 minutes of run time with this battery.)
**The Gigapod also requires one 9v battery, we recommend NIMH or LI-ON rechargeable with compatible charger.
** The gamepad takes any kind of standard 9v rectangular batter, either rechargeable or disposable work fine. These are commonly available from many sources. We recommend rechargeable NIMH or LI-ON 9v batteries with compatible charger.
** Note that we do not provide batteries or chargers with our kits due to licenses required to ship batteries.
NOTE ON BATTERY SAFETY: Never leave batteries in the Gigapod or gamepad after use. If either one gets turned on accidentally, overdraining the battery may damage or destroy it. As soon as the Gigapod has trouble moving or sags under its own weight, immediately stop and replace with fresh batteries.

=== GAMEPAD BOM AND ASSEMBLY ===
The gamepad for Gidget the Gigapod is identical to the gamepad for Vorpal The Hexapod. See instructions for the gamepad here: [[Vorpal_The_Hexapod_Building_Instructions#Building_the_Gamepadd|Vorpal The Hexapod Gamepad Assembly instructions]]

==Printing the Plastic Parts==

This section assumes you have basic familiarity with 3D printing and 3D printing terminology. If not, you might want to reference online materials such as youtube videos or information from your 3D printer manufacturer before attempting this project.

Please note: it takes over 200 hours to print this project. This is not a project for the faint of heart, or for people who are not experienced in 3d printing and have not tuned and maintained their printers. If you are a beginner at 3d printing, we strongly recommend that you start with our smaller [[Vorpal the Hexapod]] project. It's a 16 hour print, requires a lot less bridging, and less than a tenth as much practice.

===OBTAINING THE STL FILES===
We have posted the STL files to [http://www.thingiverse.com Thingiverse]. Search for "Gidget the Gigapod" and they should pop right up.

Please help us by rating the Gidget the Gigapod project (or clicking on the LIKE button, COLLECT button, etc.)!

Please post your builds to places like Thingiverse, pictures to FaceBook, Instagram, etc., and videos of your robot to YouTube! This will help us grow and continue having the resources creating cool new projects for our community.

===MINIMUM PRINTER REQUIREMENTS===
*The bed size should be at least 275mm cube (about 11 inches cube). The largest parts are the six Base and the 3 Cap parts in the x and y directions, and in the Z direction the Leg is largest, so these are the limiting factor on bed size.
* For almost all parts, we recommend PLA PRO plastic (or similiar enhanced PLA plastics that may go under other names like PLA+). These are large parts and so PLA is preferred due it being resistant to warping.
* The boots part is best made of TPU plastic, or similar flexible plastics, to reduce the impact of walking on floors.
===AMOUNT OF PLASTIC FILAMENT===
* About 6 to 7 kg of PLA plastic are needed to print the entire robot and gamepad, assuming no print failures.
* About 200 grams of TPU (or similar flexible plastic) are needed to print the wheels. It is possible to print the wheels out of harder plastics but in that case they might scratch wooden floors, so we suggest TPU or some other flexible, soft plastic.
* The amount of plastic used does depend on plastic type and exact print settings though, so your mileage may vary.

===RECOMMENDED PLASTICS===
*ABS, PETG, and PLA all work well. However, because there are some very large parts, ABS may cause you some warping issues if you don't have a heated bed, enclosure, and a printer tuned well for large parts. PLA is generally easier and has fewer issues with corners peeling off the print bed.
*We use eSun PLA PRO for this project and for us it works very well. PLA PRO is a little more flexible and stronger than typical PLA. We have no problems with warping even on the largest parts.
*For the boots, we used Sainsmart TPU and it works very well. Other flexible plastics would probably also be fine.
*This project requires less flexibility than the smaller Vorpal The Hexapod project, so ABS is not at all required for this project.
===PRINTING TIPS===
This project has been finely tuned to make it easy to 3D print. No additional supports are required for any of the parts (there is a support built into the models for the CAP parts and there are tiny supports built into the hinge parts). In some cases you may want to use brims or rafts to help parts adhere to the print surface. These are large, long prints so using a brim for a little added safety is probably prudent.

There is some significant bridging with some spans up to 45mm (1.8"). It is important to tune your printer and make sure it can handle the bridging before attempting the large parts. A little sagging is ok and a drip or two can be easily removed, but you need decent ability to bridge. There are bridge testing and calibration models posted on sites like Thingiverse that may help you tune your printer before trying the big parts. There are numerous "3d printing tips" type postings on the internet that make suggestions for how to tune for features like bridging.

====PRINT SETTINGS====
We print using the following settings on a Lulzbot TAZ 6 with 0.5mm nozzle:
* 0.4 layer thickness (or whatever layer thickness is the largest that will work on your printer)
* 2mm walls (i.e. four perimeters for a 0.5mm nozzle)
* 1.6 mm top and bottom (i.e. four layers at 0.4mm layer height)
* 25% infill
* You can print with thinner layers if your printer does not support 0.4mm layers or if you want a more refined look, it will just take longer. If you have a large nozzle (0.8mm or more) you should be able to go with bigger layers and save a lot of print time. Please report your findings to us at support@vorpalrobotics.com so we can advise future Makers of this project.

====POST PRINT====
Other than removing brims/rafts, cap and hinge built in supports, and the occasional drip, there is not any special post-processing required after printing. Some of the big bridges might seem a little saggy but generally speaking there's enough tolerance that this won't cause an issue. The biggest bridges are mostly hidden inside the robot so they won't affect cosmetics.

====PRO TIPS====
*Do routine maintenance on your printer before printing the big parts: lubricate rods and lead screws, check bed leveling, replace nozzle if worn, do a calibration print, clean your print surface, etc. A few minutes of preparation will help you nail these prints and make a project you can be very proud of!
*Print the large parts (Base, Cap) at the ''start'' of new spools. The last thing you want is to run out of filament 95% of the way through a big part.
*Print the smallest parts (servo stops, hinge rings, Leg pegs, gamepad drawer) near the end of a spool.
*If you have a large format printer, it is tempting to kick off several large parts at once and let it run overnight. We would recommend against that--the chances of killing an entire spool of filament due to an overnight power hit or other failure is just not worth it. Take your time, do the big parts one by one. One or two during the day, one overnight. It will all get done soon enough. An extra few days won't matter in the long run.

== Building the Robot ==

You will need the following tools:
*Included in the kit:
** 2mm hex key. A 5/64 inch hex key will also work. This is in the Gigapod Parts bag.
** 7/64 hex key at least 6" long (150mm). It needs to be long enough to reach screws through access holes in the Base and Cap. This is in the Gigapod Parts Bag.
*Not included in the kit:
** Optional: A marker that can write on dark plastic and still be seen, such as Sharpie Metallic or Sharpie Oil markers (white and yellow work great on dark colored plastic, black or blue work well on light colored plastic). This can be used to make raised lettering on the robot and gamepad more visible.
** Optional: Needle nose pliers can be helpful for holding nuts in place while tightening screws.
** Optional: Slip-joint pliers can be helpful for forcing the skate bearings into their press-fit locations on the Leg Hinges

===IMPORTANT WARNING: POWERFUL SERVOS MAY INJURE YOU===
The motors on Gidget the Gigapod are very powerful compared to the smaller Vorpal the Hexapod (or even Max the Megapod) projects. It is possible for the leg motions to pinch fingers or even possibly break fingers or cause other injuries, possibly severe. When powering on the Gigapod you must keep fingers clear of places where the legs/hips can come together. You should mount the included "Pinch Point" stickers around the Base of the robot to warn others. During public demonstrations, keep adults and especially children away from the robot when it's operating. Little kids will definitely try to touch the robot and could be injured, keep them at a safe distance. In case of electrical issues the legs may move unexpectedly. Turning the power off will release the motors. Never carry the Gigapod when it's powered on. For safety, I disconnect the battery when transporting, just to prevent the possibility that the power switch will get hit accidentally.

If the robot is moving in an out of control manner, use a pencil, book, or rod to hit the power switch from a safe distance. The switch is large and easy to turn off.

You must at all times take standard precautions that are typical with large robotic projects.

If you are building your own electrical system please do not skimp by skipping adding the fuse to the circuit. This project may draw significant amperage and fuse protection is required.

===Step by Step Instructions===
PLEASE NOTE: These instructions are currently in draft state, and I've used diagrams from Max the Megapod here temporarily. The construction is very similar, although you will note some discrepancies such as the BASE for the Megapod comes in 3 parts while in the Gigapod it comes in 6 parts. Still, the construction is analogous. I'll be replacing diagrams for the parts that are not the same first.

====STEP 1: Build the BASE====
* STEP 1A: Take the six outer parts of the base (STL files: Base-1, Base-2, ... Base-6) and arrange them to form the "bowl" of the base. Make sure the servo numbers are in the right order as you move clockwise around the six parts! It's possible to assemble them in the wrong order if you don't check.
* STEP 1B: There are matching screw holes positioned on little rectangular outcroppings on the inside of the top ring, these require screws to bind the three parts together. Use six 1/4-20 by 1.25 inch socket head screws, toothed lock washers, and nuts to secure them. There is an access hole in the rim of the robot to allow the hex key to turn the screw. You may need to hold the nut in place using needle-nose pliers. Repeat for all six sections.
<gallery mode=packed heights=250>
File:Base-Exploded-View.JPG|Line up the six main pieces of the base, ensuring the servo numbers are in order.
File:Access-Hole-In-Base.jpg|Small access holes are strategically placed around the base so the hex key can turn the screws to secure the three base pieces.
File:Securing-Base-Sections.jpg|Use the access hole in the Base parts to secure screws that bind the three base parts together.
File:Megapod-Foam-Squares.jpg|Peel the backing off the foam squares that came with the kit and attach them to the bottom of the base. Stack them on top of each other.
</gallery>
* STEP 1C: Take the Base Bottom part and place it inside the base. There is a nub in one place that will only allow it to be inserted in one orientation. Use six 1/4-20 by 3/4 inch screws with nuts and lock washers in the outer ring of holes in the bottom to secure it to the base. The head of the screw should be on the outside of the robot and nuts should secure the screws on the inside.
* STEP 1D: Take the foam squares that came in your kit and stick them on the bottom of the robot, reasonably centered. These foam pads will reduce the shock and stress on the robot when it goes down to the floor on certain dance moves. Without these pads, the robot leg servos and body structure may undergo too much stress.

====STEP 2: Install the electrical system in the base====
* STEP 2A: Take the potentiometer and remove its dial cap, then unscrew the nut and set these items aside for now (don't lose them). Push the potentiometer shaft from the inside of the chassis into the hole that is surrounded by the markings "STOP", "TST", etc. The wires coming out of the potentiometer should be pointing down. The little metal nub sticking out of the potentiometer should match with a tiny rectangular hole that is near the marking "TST". Put the retaining nut on the potentiometer, hand tighten first and then give it just another half turn or so with pliers if desired. Turn the knob all the way counter-clockwise, then insert the knob so it points to the letter "O" in the word "STOP".
* STEP 2B: Take the large DPST on/off switch (which is attached to the battery holder and power distribution assembly) and thread the switch wires from the inside through the gap at the bottom of the switch hole (see picture). Carefully push the wires one by one through the slot below the switch hole. Once all the wires are through, push the switch into the switch hole. It should be oriented with the "1" to the right. Press carefully into the hole, it should snap firmly in place.
** If the fit is too tight to get the switch in place, lightly sanding or filing the hole to make it a tiny bit larger should work.
<gallery mode=packed heights=200>
File:Switch-Insert-1.jpg|Thread the switch and its wires through the Base, there is an opening under the switch hole.
File:Switch-Insert-2.jpg|Bring the wires up through the small gap below the switch hole. Be careful with the large wires, they require some pressure or some flexing of the plastic to get through.
File:Switch-Insert-3.jpg|All the wires are now coming through the switch hole.
File:Switch-Insert-4.jpg|Press the switch into the hole, it should snap into place. The "1" should be to the right.
</gallery>

====STEP 3: Insert servos in the chassis====
* Next, insert the servo into the chassis as shown in the diagrams. As you insert the servo into the chassis, slowly press it straight into place until it fully seats. Use a servo stopper and one 1/4-20 by 2 inch nylon hex bolts to secure the servos in place. The nylon bolts should retain in the holes even though there are no threads and no nut used. If you find them working themselves loose, you could wrap a bit of electrical tape around the end of the screw to make the fit tighter.
<gallery mode=packed heights=250>
File:Servo-in-Base-2.jpg|Insert each servo with the wire coming out away from the robot as shown here. Press in completely.
File:Servo-in-Base-3.jpg|Insert a servo stopper (shown in red) and secure with nylong bolt. Thread the wire into the body of the robot through the hole as shown.
</gallery>

====STEP 4: Build the Legs====
=====STEP 4A: Assemble Boot and Wheel=====

<gallery mode=packed heights=350>
File:Gigapod-Leg-Assembly-Wheel-Boot.PNG|Parts for Boot and Wheel. The boot goes over the main leg and is secured with two endcaps and a #6-32 1" screw, nut, and lock washer. The wheel has two bushings and is secured with a #6-32 x 1" screw, lock washer, and nut.
File:Gigapod-Leg-Assembly-Bearing-Peg.PNG|Insert Bearing Peg (red). The servo will lock it in place, there are no screws required.
</gallery>

=====STEP 4B: Insert Servos in Legs=====
The technique is very similar to inserting the servo into the chassis.
*Insert the servo straight into the leg socket so that the wire is coming out of the servo facing away from the plastic leg and the face of the servo with the shaft and servo horn goes into the open faced side of the leg, as shown in the diagram.
*Secure the servo in place with a servo stopper and one 2 inch nylong bolt as you did with the hip servos in the base.
*The servos in the legs are called the "knee" servos. Each leg has a higher number on it, this is the knee number, they run from 6 to 11. Again, write this number on the black connector at the end of the servo wire. PRO TIP: For 6 and 9, underline the number so you don't read them upside down!
*Cut a 12 inch length of braided wire covering. Seal the threads at the end using a lighter for a couple seconds to melt them. Be careful not to set on fire. Thread the knee servo wires through the braided wire covering. This will help protect the servo wires, and also makes the robot look better. You may need to use electrical tape to secure the end of the braided covering to one end of the servo wire.
<gallery mode=packed heights=200>
File:Servo-Insert-Leg-v2.png|Insert Servos in Legs
File:Servo-Leg-Inserted-v2.png|Push until fully seated
File:Servo-Stopper-In-Leg.jpg|Use the servo stopper and two screws to lock the servo in place
</gallery>

*Thread each leg servo wire (with braided covering) into the bottom wire guide slot on the chassis. Each leg servo should be matched with a hip servo plus 6. The legs are marked with the hip number near the top and the knee number below that. For example, the leg marked 6 should be threaded through the wire guide on hip servo 0, leg 7 goes with hip 1, leg 8 goes with hip 2, etc. Add 6 to the hip number to get the leg number.

====STEP 5: Plug in the Servos====
Thread the servo wires into the chassis using the routing holes, as you did with the hip servos. The power distribution harness has marked servo extension sockets for each servo. Each hip servo is marked on the BASE showing its number. the knee servo for each hip is numbered six higher than its corresponding hip. For example, hip servo number 3 will be attached to knee servo number 9, because 3+6=9.

When plugging the servos in, make sure you match the light yellow servo wire to the white servo extension wire, and the dark brown servo wire should match with the black servo extension wire.

====STEP 6: Make Robot Electrical Connections====

If you are self-sourcing, use the diagram below in the electrical section to make the rest of the robot's electrical connections. You'll be using the Robot Arduino Nano (marked "R"), the Servo Driver, Bluetooth Module marked "S", the buzzer, and a bunch of jumper wires. Make sure you use the longer jumper wires for the SDA and SCL connections between the Nano and the Servo Driver.
If you bought a kit from us, all connections are already made, other than plugging the servos into the marked servo extension connectors.

====STEP 7: Assemble the leg hinges====
[[File:Servo-Bracket-Alignment-v1.png|thumb|350px|right|Align the leg hinges as shown here. The bumps (see arrows) should both be near each other when properly aligned. Hold one in each hand with the ends of the U shape between thumb and forefinger.]]
Each leg hinge is composed of two identical U-shaped parts. Take one in each hand and align the two so that the bump (shown in the diagram at the right) are both near each other. Turn one 90 degrees with respect to the other.
*Gently squeeze each piece between thumb and forefinger, which causes the little jaws in the center to open up slightly. Work the two halves together. Keep squeezing harder until the ends slide into place.
*If you used PLA and are finding it hard to bend, briefly soaking the pieces in very hot tap water has been reported to make it easier. Take care not to scald yourself, the water does not have to be boiling, just hot from the tap. You only need to dip the ends that will lock over each other, not the parts you will squeeze. Use caution.
*At this stage, you may notice that the parts are loosely clamped on each other (this depends on plastic used and whether your printer over- or under-extrudes). Don't worry! When you place the leg hinges over a servo, the servo will spread it apart and they will lock together more tightly.
* Use a #6-32 1" screw and matching nut through the center hole of the two joined leg hinges to secure the hinges further. (This is necessary because the gigapod's hinges are under much more stress than in the megapod or hexapod.)
*Insert a 6202ZZ bearing into the socket on one side of the leg hinges. Pliers may be necessary to press them into place. Make sure you clean up any drips inside the recessed area for the skate bearing before attempting to insert the bearings. If you have a lot of trouble getting them in, you could heat up that part of the hinge in hot tap water to soften the plastic, or use a butane lighter (carefully! don't stop moving it) to soften the plastic before inserting the bearing.

====STEP 8: Attach Leg Hinges====
The leg hinges connect the hips to the knees. They only go on one way. If you made sure to align the bumps when assembling the leg hinges, this will result in correct orientation of all legs.
*First place the end that matches the servo horn on about halfway. Make sure the servo horn slides under the little pocket at the end of recessed area that accepts the horn.
*Very slightly bend the U shaped piece while pulling the skate bearing side over the hemispherical bump on the other side of the servo holding area. It's a little easier to do the knees (servos mounted to legs) first, followed by the hips (servos on base).
*NOTE: It will be a tight fit, but it should not be excessively difficult to push the hinge over the bearing.
*When completed, double check to make sure the servo horn went into the covered pocket at the end of its recessed area. This pocket keeps the horn from slipping out of the hinge during stressful operations.

====STEP 9: Enclose the electronics modules in their caddies====

Now things look pretty messy with all those wires hanging loose, let's clean it up by stowing the Arduino Nano, Bluetooth module and Servo Driver in their caddies. The caddies will keep them safe by making sure they can't short out against each other or touch screws, etc.
* '''STEP 9A: Insert Caddy Bars''' Insert the electronics caddy bars as shown in the diagrams below. Notice carefully how they are inserted. Don't insert them upside down, the little hump should be facing inward toward the caddy. You may need to slightly squeeze the forked section at the end to work it into the hole. Once inside, it may be difficult to remove because it will snap into place, so be sure you're putting it in the right way.
<gallery mode=packed heights=300>
File:Insert-Caddy-Bar-1.jpg|Insertion of the caddy bar into the Nano caddy. Notice the orientation, don't put the bar in upside down. The same technique is used for the Servo Driver Caddy.
</gallery>
* '''STEP 9B: Insert the Arduino Nano into its caddy''' Carefully insert the Nano as shown, making sure you don't pull out any of the wires. You may need to wiggle the caddy bar from side to side a bit so that components can slide past it during insertion. Notice that the end of the Nano that has the USB port must go in last.

<gallery mode=packed heights=250>
File:Insert-Nano-In-Caddy-1.jpg|Insert the Nano in the orientation shown.
File:Insert-Nano-In-Caddy-2.jpg|You may need to wiggle it a bit or press on the bar to work it into place.
File:Insert-Nano-In-Caddy-3.jpg|Note how the USB port is accessible through the top after full insertion.
</gallery>

* '''STEP 9C: Insert the Servo Driver into its caddy''' Carefully insert the Servo Driver as shown, making sure you don't pull out any of the wires. You may need to wiggle the caddy bar from side to side a bit so that components can slide past it during insertion. Notice that the end of the Servo controller with wires sticking out of it must go in last.

<gallery mode=packed heights=200>
File:Insert-ServoDriver-In-Caddy-1.jpg|Insert the Servo Driver in the orientation shown.
File:Insert-ServoDriver-In-Caddy-2.jpg|You may need to wiggle it a bit or press on the bar to work it into place.
File:Insert-ServoDriver-In-Caddy-3.jpg|Note that the end with the wires goes in last.
</gallery>

* '''STEP 9D: Insert the HC05 Bluetooth Module''' The diagrams here do not show the wires to make them easier to visualize. The HC05 Bluetooth module with a name beginning with "S" should be used for the robot. For example, the label will read something like "VORP S2944" (the number will differ). The one marked "M" will be used for the gamepad. Slide the HC05 into the side drawer as shown. When inserting, be careful not to pull out the wires, which will be a little tight. Work the wires into the little space provided so they stay clear of the robot's cap when it gets screwed on later.

<gallery mode=packed heights=250>
File:Insert-HC05-in-Caddy-1.jpg|Insert the HC05 into the side drawer of the Nano Caddy as shown.
File:Insert-HC05-in-Caddy-2.jpg|When fully inserted, the indicator light will still be visible through the small oval.
File:Insert-HC05-in-Caddy-3.jpg|The wires should be tucked into the little cavity near the pins of the HC05.
</gallery>

====STEP 10: Power up!====
Make sure the on/off switch is off, and the knob is turned to STOP. Attach the proper batteries (a 9v recharageable NIMH or LI-ON, and an 8.4 volt 4000 or more mAh NIMH with XT60 connector) and power on the robot using the on/off switch. You should hear a beep, a pause, then a second beep. The servos should all twitch into position. If the robot does not move at all, immediately turn the switch off and check your connections again. If some of the servos don't move then gently push them with power off to see if you can free them up. If they still won't move, try pushing them with power applied, but turn off the power within 30 seconds if they're locked up. If you can't get the servo to move it will need to be replaced.

[[File:Servo-Horn-Orientation.png|thumb|right|The servo horn should come straight out from the body at a 90 degree angle as shown here. Do not turn the servo shaft by hand until after it has moved under power!]]

====STEP 11: Insert Servo Horns====
The servo horns are all at random-ish angles right now. In this step we'll make them point in the right direction. The knee servos are not at 90 degrees when the knob is all the way counter clockwise, rather they are at a 30 degree standing angle.

We need to get them to 90 degrees so its easy to align the servo horn, and this is done by going into "Adjust Mode". Turn the knob very slightly clockwise until you hear a beep, then stop. After about one second you will see all the knee servos twitch. This is "adjust servo horn mode". All servos (knees and hips) are now at their halfway point, 90 degrees.

Now you need to take each single arm servo horn and carefully insert it on the shaft so that it is sticking straight out as shown in the figure. You will not always be able to make the horn come totally straight out. This is because there are only 22 little groves (splines) in each shaft, meaning you can in general only come within about 8 degrees of being at a perfect 90 degree angle. This amount of error is acceptable for now, just get it as close as you can. Later we'll use Trim Mode to make fine adjustments.

====STEP 12: Test Knee Positions====
Turn the knob fully counter clockwise (to STOP) and the robot will go into "stand still" mode. Place it on a level surface such as a table top. Do all of the legs touch the ground? If one or more legs don't touch the ground, you need to adjust the servo horn on the knee a little bit so it does touch. Gently pull off the servo bracket. Pull the servo horn off, and put it back on just a little bit moved so the leg would move closer to the ground. Put the servo bracket back on, and see how it looks. Do this until all legs are at least slightly touching the ground. Again, you can't necessarily be perfect due to the 8 degree increments the servo horns can be moved. But you should be able to be close enough that all legs at least slightly touch the ground.

====STEP 13: Insert Servo Screws====
Now that the legs are adjusted, you can insert the M3x12 screws (with M3 lock washers) into the servo horns to lock them in place. Note that you will NOT be using the screws that were in the little bag the servos came in, you'll be using the separate pack of screws, which are longer than the ones in the servo bag. Do not overtighten these screws, as you could possibly crack the servo brackets. Just turn the screws until you start to feel resistance, then turn a quarter turn more and stop.

====STEP 14: Test the Servos====
*'''STEP 14A: Using TST Mode'''
**To test whether every servo is working, put the robot on something that will lift its legs off the table top, but won't interfere with the legs (a small box or stack of books will work).
**Start with the knob on STOP, then slowly turn it clockwise. You'll hear one beep (Adjust mode), then a second beep (Test mode). Stop turning and the robot will go into "individual servo test mode". In this mode, every hip servo will move, one by one. When all the hips have moved, every leg will move, one by one. You should see every servo move, in order. If some don't move, check your connections. A common error is to plug a servo connector into the servo controller backwards (i.e. the brown wire is matched with the yellow pin instead of the black pin). If the servos do not move in a sensible order, that probably means you plugged a couple of servos into the wrong sockets in the electrical harness.

*'''STEP 14B: Test Using Demo Mode'''
**Ok, everything looks good, so time for a full test. Turn the knob to STOP, then put the robot on the floor, somewhere that has at least a few feet of room in each direction. (Caution: it's tempting to do this on a table top, but unless you have a huge table this is not advisable, Max will run pretty fast at some points during the demo.)
**Turn the knob to DEMO, and about one second later the robot will go through a series of movements to demonstrate some of the things it can do. The full demo only takes about 30 seconds, then repeats. Here, you are looking for the robot to, for example, be able to get back up off the floor after doing some of its dance moves.
**If the robot struggles to get off the floor, you may have a battery that is not fully charged, or there may be drips or other obstructions stopping some legs from moving fully. See the [[Vorpal Combat_Hexapod Troubleshooting Guide|Trouble Shooting Guide]] for more information about different kinds of issues that can occur. That guide was written for the small robot, but most of the things that can go wrong with the Gigapod are similar to the things that can go wrong with Vorpal The Hexapod.

====STEP 15: Store electronics and wires in the Base====
Carefully stow the caddies into the base, using any available convenient space. NOTE: Unlike the small hexapod and megapod, the Gigapod saves weight by not having any service access covers. This makes it look messier when the top is off, but the savings in weight was necessary to avoid servo stress.
<gallery mode=packed heights=250>
File:All-Electronics-Inserted-In-Base.jpg|Carefully stow the caddies into the base, being careful not to pull out any wires.
</gallery>

====STEP 16: Assemble the Cap====
*'''STEP 16A: Assemble the Four Cap Parts'''
**First assemble the three large pieces after removing the support coming out of the center. Be aware that there is a correct ordering to them, the two flaps that stick out near the bottom need to be opposite each other so the cap can slot into the Base and lock in place. Use #6-32 x 1 inch screws plus nylox locking nuts to secure the three parts together as shown. There are access holes around the rim that allow the hex key to reach the screws. Use nuts and locking washers to secure the screws.
**Secure the top of the cap onto the bottom three pieces using three 1 inch #6 socket screws and their associated nylox locking nuts.
<gallery mode=packed heights=250>
File:Cap-Exploded.JPG|Arrangement of the four Cap parts. Note that this diagram shows the support in place, this should actually be removed prior to assembly.
File:CAP-Assembly-order.JPG|Make sure the two flaps at the rim are opposite each other when ordering the three main parts.
</gallery>
* '''STEP 16B: Put Hook-and-loop on Cap''' Peel and stick on the "hook" side of a 1" piece of hook-and-loop on each flat circular decoration holder on the cap.
* '''STEP 16C: Decorate''' If desired, use a permanent marker to color the Vorpal "V" on top of the Cap. Oil markers work well. On light colors of plastic a black permanent marker will also work.
* '''STEP 16D: Put Cap on the Hexapod'''
**Screw the cap on the robot by lining up the tabs with the matching slots in the rim of the base. Turn the cap clockwise to lock it in place. IMPORTANT: Do not press down on the robot to insert the cap when the robot is under power standing on its legs! You can damage the leg motors by doing this. It is best to turn the robot off, and either support the bottom of the Base with one hand and press the Cap on with the other, or set the Base down on the table top or floor with legs out to the sides so they don't take pressure.
**If the cap is too loose and swivels while the robot moves, this can be fixed by putting a bit of tape on the cap's flaps to make them a little thicker. The tightness of the cap depends a lot on printer settings, over- or under-extrusion, etc.

====STEP 17: Warning Label====
There are self-stick choking hazard warning labels and also several pinch point warning labels in the hexapod parts bag. Peel the backing off one choking hazard lable and place it on the bottom of the robot, near the center. Retain the second label for the gamepad. The pinch point warnings should be placed around the body of the robot, above the legs, in visible positions. Depending on what kind of plastic you're using, they might or might not stick well. If they don't stick, use glue (such as cyanoacrilate "super glue" or even hot glue) to secure them. The warning labels are not optional! They are necessary for safety. The motors are powerful and can snap your fingers like a twig, or cause severe pinch injuries, sprains, or bruises.

==== Step 18: Trimming the Servos ====
When you assembled the servo horns onto the servos, you probably were not able to get them all to come out exactly at a 90 degree angle. That's not your fault: the servo horns only have 22 possible positions in which they can be installed, so at best you can come within plus or minus 8 degrees of perfection.

Now that you have the gamepad working, you can make fine adjustments to the servo positions using "Trim Mode". In this special gamepad mode, you can adjust all the servos to within a fraction of a degree. These adjustments are saved in the robot's EEPROM, which is memory on the Nano that retains data even when powered off. So, you only need to trim once.

Complete instructions on how to use trim mode are in the wiki page: [[Vorpal The Hexapod Trim Mode Guide]]. That guide was written for the smaller robot, but the instructions are identical for the Gigapod.

NOTE: although this step is optional, it is strongly recommended because your robot will walk straighter and all the servos will share equally in lifting the robot's weight, which will make them last longer.

====Step 19: Assembling Eye Decorations====
Peel and stick a piece of "loop" from the supplied hook and loop fasteners on the back of the two eye pieces. This allows you to stick the eyes on the Cap's matching "hook" areas.

NOTE: There are extra hook and loop circles included in your kit. You can create your own attachments, nameplates, etc. using these.

==Electrical Connections: Robot==

===NOTES ON JUMPER WIRES===

====Wire Lengths====
There are two different lengths of female-female Dupont jumper wires used to make most connections. The longer ones (20cm) are only used for the Hexapod's accessory port connections. The shorter ones are used for all the connections on the Gamepad and all the connections on the Hexapod between the Arduino Nano, Servo controller and Bluetooth module.

====Wire Color Conventions====

Please follow these conventions when selecting wire colors:
* For +5V, Vin, and similar positive voltage connections, use either RED or ORANGE.
* For GND and other negative electrical connections, use BLACK or BROWN.
* For the connectors that sit at the mouth of the accessory port (used for optional sensors) colors are suggested below in the instructions. By following these suggestions you will make your life easier when connecting sensors!
* For all other connections, you can use any color you want, it's arbitrary.

====If Jumper Wires Are Too Loose====
Sometimes you will find a wire whose connector does not grip the pin well enough. It might fall off very easily or just by gravity alone. If that happens, you have a few options:
* There are extra wires in your kit. If you find a wire that's too loose, just use a different wire.
* Using the hex key, you can put the jumper housing on a flat surface then press on the metal showing through the plastic connector, which will tighten up the jumper wire's grip. Don't go too overboard on pressing though or you might make it too hard to insert.
* Alternatively, you could use electrical tape after inserting all the wires on a module (such as the Nano) to effectively attach together all the little plastic female connector housings. In that way, the connectors that do grip will help hold in the ones that are too loose. Some people also like using hot glue for this purpose. (Personally, I don't like using hot glue, as it makes it harder to change connections if you hooked something up incorrectly.)

===NANO PIN CONNECTIONS===
[[File:Megapod-Nano-Connections-v1.JPG|thumb|600px|right|Diagram of Nano connections for the Hexapod. Jumpers marked AP are routed to the Accessory Port for use with add-ons like sensors. Click for larger image.]]
* ''Digital IO Pins:''
** D0, D1 are reserved because they are used for uploading programs to the robot, so nothing will be connected there.
** D2, D3 No connection.
** D4 Buzzer Signal (white wire)
** D5 through D13 No connection. These pins are reserved for future expansion.

* ''Analog Pins:''
** A0 Potentiometer signal (white wire)
** A1 Potentiometer Power (red wire)
** A2 Potentiometer Ground (black wire)
** A3 No connection.
** A4 Servo Controller SDA
** A5 Servo Controller SCL
** A6, A7 No connection.

* ''Power Pins:''
** +5V pin on Nano connects to any of the +5V RED wires coming from the BEC on the power distribution harness.
** GND pin on Nano connects to any of the GND BLACK wires coming from the BEC on the power distribution harness.

===Servo Driver Power Pins===
* Port 0 RED pin on the Servo Driver connects to any of the +5V RED wires coming from the BEC on the power distribution harness.
* Port 0 BLACK GND pin on the Servo Driver connects to any of the GND BLACK wires coming from the BEC on the power distribution harness.

=== Bluetooth Module Power ===
* +5V on HC05 connects to any RED Dupont connector coming off the BEC.
* GND on HC05 connects to any BLACK Dupont connector coming off the BEC.

=== Buzzer Power ===
* Plug the buzzer into the unused port 15 on the servo driver, making sure the red and black wires on the buzzer power match the red and black rows of pins on the servo driver.

=== Servo Driver ===
[[File:Megapod-ServoDriverConnections.jpg|thumb|600px|right|Diagram of Servo Controller pins you will use in this project. Each servo motor has a 3 wire connector that should be plugged into the corresponding servo number extension connector in the power distribution harness. The white wires coming out of the harness in groups of four should be connected to the yellow line or ports, matching the number ranges to port numbers. Note that the black and red rows of pins are not used, power is provided to the servos through the power distribution harness. Click for larger image.]]
* Connect the 12 servos to power distribution harness connectors marked with port numbers corresponding to the servo marking (0 to 11). Make sure the signal wire (yellow) is oriented correctly and matches the yellow plastic header pin.
* Connect the groups of four white wires which are marked with servo port numbers to the Servo Driver yellow pins, matching the Servo Driver pin number to the port numbers written on the 4-pin Dupont connectors coming out of the power distribution harness.
* Connect one of the +5V RED regulated BEC outputs to the RED port 0 pin of the Servo Driver. Connect one of the GND black pins coming out of the BEC to the BLACK port 0 GND pin on the Servo Driver.
* On one short side of the Servo Controller you will find a VCC and V+ pin right next to each other. Use a shunt (small black connector that goes over two pins) to connect those together if one is not already installed. Without this shunt the Servo Driver will not work.
* SDA and SCL go to A4 and A5 on the Nano, respectively.



== Building the Gamepad ==
The gamepad for Gidget the Gigapod is identical to the Gamepad for Vorpal The Hexapod (and also Max the Megapod).

Please see instructions on [[Vorpal_The_Hexapod_Building_Instructions#Building_the_Gamepadd|the Vorpal Hexapod Gamepad Assembly instructions]].

{{Gigapod Quick Links}}

Gidget The Gigapod Assembly Instructions

2021-03-19T15:10:20Z

Vorpalwiki: /* STEP 4A: Assemble Boot and Wheel */

==LIMITED AVAILABILITY==

Our kits for this project are special order at this time. Allow two weeks for us to ship. Because the parts are relatively heavy, shipping to areas outside the USA is expensive. For makers outside the USA, you may want to try to acquire the parts locally. But beware of subsitutions! Walking robots have very precise requirements and any substitutions of parts may cause the project not to function as expected.

Warning: The 3D printed parts for this project consume a lot of plastic and the print (on our own printers) is over 200 hours for all the parts. (It's not 200 hours straight, it's multiple print jobs each running 6 to 16 hours.) You shouldn't attempt this unless you're prepared for long print times and your printer is well tuned to make failures rare.

NEW: our Megapod and Gigapod kits are now standard with the "Quickbuild" electrical system. This cuts over an hour off the build time.

==Gidget The Gigapod Construction==
[[File:Giga-Mega-Hexa-Stacked.jpg|right|thumb|Gigapod, Megapod, Hexapod relative sizes]]
Gidget The Gigapod is a very large, 3d printed, hexapod robot. This page gives complete instructions for building this project. If you are new to 3d printing, you probably don't want to start with this one, though. Please consider our smaller [[Vorpal The Hexapod]] project instead.
==BILL OF MATERIALS (BOM) FOR GIDGET THE GIGAPOD==
===Notes on Sourcing Parts Yourself===
* These instructions assume you have purchased a kit from us (kits are currently a special order item). If you are sourcing your own parts, please be aware of the following additional information:
**If you are sourcing your own parts, you need to build the power distribution connector assembly. This is identical to the power distribution system for [[Max The Megapod]]. For diagrams see [[Max The Megapod Battery/Switch Construction]] except that it uses an XT60 connector instead of Tamaya for the large battery, and it uses a 30 amp fuse instead of a 15 amp fuse. This will take about 2 hours of soldering and labelling work.
**Also see important information on that page if you are sourcing your own BEC.
**If you are sourcing your own Bluetooth modules, please be aware that you will need to configure them to auto-pair and to have a UART speed of 38400 BAUD. Every module brand's firmware is a bit different so it's not possible for us to give you universal instructions on how to program them. We assume that if you source your own parts you are familiar with how to configure Bluetooth modules using AT-commands. (You can find tutorials online or videos on youtube, but like we said, different modules may not exactly match instructions you will find so be prepared to fiddle around a bit). Please do not ask our customer support for help on this topic. We sell pre-configured modules that auto-pair on boot for a very reasonable price.
**If you are sourcing your own Arduino Nano modules, you will need to flash the robot and gamepad code on them. You can find the latest stable release of code at the [https://tinyurl.com/VORPALFILES Vorpal Hexapod Public Dropbox folder]. The source code tree is posted in our github repository, but the top of that tree may not be stable. Note: there is currently no difference in software between the large and small versions of the hexapod other than a single #define called HEXSIZE. For the gigapod, this should be set to 2.
* Please be very careful about substitutions. You might think you can substitute cheaper parts for the ones specified here. Don't bet on it. Walking robots are extremely difficult to design, and we've chosen each part for a good reason. For example, if you try to substitute cheaper servos you are very likely to find that they don't provide enough torque for the robot to stand up, or they burn out within minutes due to being over-stressed. If you substitute a different battery voltage, you'll either fry the servos or they won't have enough torque. It took 1,000 hours of work to design the smaller hexapod on which this one is based, then another 500 hours of redesign, testing, and tuning to get the big version working well. If you want to try substitutions, okay, but please don't expect it to work without many hours of adjustments and testing.
* Full kits of parts as well as individual parts will be available on [http://store.vorpalrobotics.com The Vorpal Robotics Store]. If you are new to Arduino and robotics we strongly recommend you purchase a kit instead of trying to self-source parts (and truthfully, if you're not experienced with this kind of project you really should build the smaller [[Vorpal The Hexapod]] kit first. NOTE: kits will not be available until approximately Fall 2020 due to delays in getting parts from China due to the virus pandemic.
* Our kits cut 4 to 5 hours off the build time, bringing it to typically 2 to 3 or so hours. The kits have all soldering done, programs are already loaded on the Nanos, Bluetooth modules are properly configured, and you know you have all the right parts to work together. About half the people who self-source parts end up buying parts that are incorrect or are so cheap that they will quickly fail (and they end up spending more money and far more time than if they had simply bought a kit to start with!)

=== ROBOT BOM ===
[[File:Choking-Hazard-Image.jpg|right|350px]]
[[File:PinchPoint-Warning.JPG|right|350px]]

* ''Electronics:''
** Passive Piezo Buzzer module and 3 wire cable (see image) [[File:Passive-Piezo-Buzzer-Module.jpg|right|thumb|Passive Piezo Buzzer Module]]
** Arduino Nano, 5V, 16 mHz, ATMEGA328 or similar (marked RM in our kit to indicate it is pre-loaded with Gigapod robot software)
** Rotary potentiometer, 10K Ohms, 6mm shaft diameter, with 3 wires pre-soldered. Also, matching dial cap and nut. If you are self-sourcing see our instructions: [[Max The Megapod Battery/Switch Construction]]
** 1 x HC05 BlueTooth Module with F-F jumper wires for making connections (our kit electronics are pre-wired for you)
** 1 x Servo Controller module (Adafruit 16-channel 12-bit I2C PWM/Servo driver or Adafruit clone) with F-F jumper wires for making connections, plus 1 two-pin shunt tying V+ to VCC
** 12 x DS5160 SSG 180 degree, 60 kg-cm torque servo motors with metal servo horns. Be sure you order the 180 degree version, these servos also come in a 270 degree version.
** 1 x Power distribution wiring harness with DPST on/off switch, Fuse, XT60 battery connector, 3A 5V BEC, and servo extension connectors. If you are self-sourcing see our wiring instructions: [[Max The Megapod Battery/Switch Construction|Circuit Diagrams]]. (The battery/switch circuit for the Gigapod is identical to that of the Megapod except it uses an XT60 connector for the large battery and it uses a 30 amp fuse instead of a 15 amp fuse.)
* ''3D Printed Parts:''
** 6 Robot Base Parts and bottom plate to hold the parts together.
** 4 Cap parts which screw together to form the cap of the robot.
** 6 x Legs
** 6 x Feet that will be assembled with wheels.
** 6 x TPU Boots to provide better traction. These should be printed in TPU or other flexible plastics so they absorb some impact during walking.
** 12 x Servo Stops. These parts hold the servos in their compartments both in the base and the legs.
** 12 x Servo Bearing Pegs. These insert into the servo compartments and provide a secure place for the bearings to sit.
** 12 x Leg Hinge halves with Leg Hinge Rings. The rings stop layer separation issues under stress.
** 1 x Electronics Caddy to hold Arduino Nano
** 1 x Electronics Caddy to hold the Servo Driver
** 2 x Eye/glasses Decoration
** 8 x 1 inch diameter hook-and-loop self stick circles to attach of eyes and other decorations
* ''Screws and Fasteners''
** 12 x Nylon bolts 1/4-20 x 2" long. These can be partially threaded. Note that it is important for these to be made of nylon for weight savings. These are used to secure servos in place using the servo stopper part.
** 12 x M3x20mm button head screws (with matching flat washers and external tooth washers) to secure servo arms to servo through the screw hole in the hinge.
** 6 x #6-32 x 1.75" long cap screws plus nuts to attach boots onto the end of the leg
** 6 x #6-32 x 1" long cap screws plus nuts to provide axles for the boot wheels.
** 6 x 1/4-20 x 1.25" long cap screw plus nylox locking nuts for holding the BASE parts together
** 6 x 1/4-20 x 3/4" long cap screw plus nylox locking nuts for holding the BOTTOM onto the BASE assembly
** 6 x #6-32 cap screws plus nylox locking nuts for holding the CAP and CAP TOPPER parts together
** 6 x #6-32 cap screws plus nylox locking nuts for holding the LEG HINGES together. Note that the smaller versions of the robot depend on a snap-together system to hold the hinges together, but the larger Gigapod requires a screw through the center hole to ensure the hinges remain together.
** If you are self-sourcing and building your own electrical system, you will also need 10 x #6-32 x 1/2" screws to hold the power distribution plastic covers together. If you buy our kit, these are already installed on the wiring harness.
* ''Miscellaneous Mechanical Parts:''
** 12 x 6202ZZ Double Metal Seal Bearings 15x35x11mm for leg hinges
** 12 x 608zz Skate Bearings with nylon coated wheel, dimensions: 27.5mm diameter wheel, 8mm inner diameter on bearing, 8mm wide.
* ''Tools Required (Not included in kit)''
** Hex drivers for the various sized bolts and screws.
** Needle nose pliers are useful for holding the nuts while assembling BASE and CAP parts.
** 3 x Pinch Point Stickers. Place these around the robot Base to warn onlookers not to touch the robot. Some kinds of plastic may not stick well to the adhesive, you may need to secure with hot glue or superglue or similar.
* ''Batteries and Chargers''
** The Gigapod uses a 4200 mAH (a little more is okay but don't go too high due to weight considerations) 7-cell NIMH battery (8.4 Volts) with male XT60 connector and compatible charger, such as: [https://www.batteryspace.com/nimhbatterypack84v4200mahhumpbatterypacksforrctraxxasandlosietc.aspx BatterySpace 42000 mAH 8.4 V NIMH] (We use that one for demos with the 14 gauge wire option, and we solder on an XT60 male connector in-house. You get about 30 minutes of run time with this battery.)
**The Gigapod also requires one 9v battery, we recommend NIMH or LI-ON rechargeable with compatible charger.
** The gamepad takes any kind of standard 9v rectangular batter, either rechargeable or disposable work fine. These are commonly available from many sources. We recommend rechargeable NIMH or LI-ON 9v batteries with compatible charger.
** Note that we do not provide batteries or chargers with our kits due to licenses required to ship batteries.
NOTE ON BATTERY SAFETY: Never leave batteries in the Gigapod or gamepad after use. If either one gets turned on accidentally, overdraining the battery may damage or destroy it. As soon as the Gigapod has trouble moving or sags under its own weight, immediately stop and replace with fresh batteries.

=== GAMEPAD BOM AND ASSEMBLY ===
The gamepad for Gidget the Gigapod is identical to the gamepad for Vorpal The Hexapod. See instructions for the gamepad here: [[Vorpal_The_Hexapod_Building_Instructions#Building_the_Gamepadd|Vorpal The Hexapod Gamepad Assembly instructions]]

==Printing the Plastic Parts==

This section assumes you have basic familiarity with 3D printing and 3D printing terminology. If not, you might want to reference online materials such as youtube videos or information from your 3D printer manufacturer before attempting this project.

Please note: it takes over 200 hours to print this project. This is not a project for the faint of heart, or for people who are not experienced in 3d printing and have not tuned and maintained their printers. If you are a beginner at 3d printing, we strongly recommend that you start with our smaller [[Vorpal the Hexapod]] project. It's a 16 hour print, requires a lot less bridging, and less than a tenth as much practice.

===OBTAINING THE STL FILES===
We have posted the STL files to [http://www.thingiverse.com Thingiverse]. Search for "Gidget the Gigapod" and they should pop right up.

Please help us by rating the Gidget the Gigapod project (or clicking on the LIKE button, COLLECT button, etc.)!

Please post your builds to places like Thingiverse, pictures to FaceBook, Instagram, etc., and videos of your robot to YouTube! This will help us grow and continue having the resources creating cool new projects for our community.

===MINIMUM PRINTER REQUIREMENTS===
*The bed size should be at least 275mm cube (about 11 inches cube). The largest parts are the six Base and the 3 Cap parts in the x and y directions, and in the Z direction the Leg is largest, so these are the limiting factor on bed size.
* For almost all parts, we recommend PLA PRO plastic (or similiar enhanced PLA plastics that may go under other names like PLA+). These are large parts and so PLA is preferred due it being resistant to warping.
* The boots part is best made of TPU plastic, or similar flexible plastics, to reduce the impact of walking on floors.
===AMOUNT OF PLASTIC FILAMENT===
* About 6 to 7 kg of PLA plastic are needed to print the entire robot and gamepad, assuming no print failures.
* About 200 grams of TPU (or similar flexible plastic) are needed to print the wheels. It is possible to print the wheels out of harder plastics but in that case they might scratch wooden floors, so we suggest TPU or some other flexible, soft plastic.
* The amount of plastic used does depend on plastic type and exact print settings though, so your mileage may vary.

===RECOMMENDED PLASTICS===
*ABS, PETG, and PLA all work well. However, because there are some very large parts, ABS may cause you some warping issues if you don't have a heated bed, enclosure, and a printer tuned well for large parts. PLA is generally easier and has fewer issues with corners peeling off the print bed.
*We use eSun PLA PRO for this project and for us it works very well. PLA PRO is a little more flexible and stronger than typical PLA. We have no problems with warping even on the largest parts.
*For the boots, we used Sainsmart TPU and it works very well. Other flexible plastics would probably also be fine.
*This project requires less flexibility than the smaller Vorpal The Hexapod project, so ABS is not at all required for this project.
===PRINTING TIPS===
This project has been finely tuned to make it easy to 3D print. No additional supports are required for any of the parts (there is a support built into the models for the CAP parts and there are tiny supports built into the hinge parts). In some cases you may want to use brims or rafts to help parts adhere to the print surface. These are large, long prints so using a brim for a little added safety is probably prudent.

There is some significant bridging with some spans up to 45mm (1.8"). It is important to tune your printer and make sure it can handle the bridging before attempting the large parts. A little sagging is ok and a drip or two can be easily removed, but you need decent ability to bridge. There are bridge testing and calibration models posted on sites like Thingiverse that may help you tune your printer before trying the big parts. There are numerous "3d printing tips" type postings on the internet that make suggestions for how to tune for features like bridging.

====PRINT SETTINGS====
We print using the following settings on a Lulzbot TAZ 6 with 0.5mm nozzle:
* 0.4 layer thickness (or whatever layer thickness is the largest that will work on your printer)
* 2mm walls (i.e. four perimeters for a 0.5mm nozzle)
* 1.6 mm top and bottom (i.e. four layers at 0.4mm layer height)
* 25% infill
* You can print with thinner layers if your printer does not support 0.4mm layers or if you want a more refined look, it will just take longer. If you have a large nozzle (0.8mm or more) you should be able to go with bigger layers and save a lot of print time. Please report your findings to us at support@vorpalrobotics.com so we can advise future Makers of this project.

====POST PRINT====
Other than removing brims/rafts, cap and hinge built in supports, and the occasional drip, there is not any special post-processing required after printing. Some of the big bridges might seem a little saggy but generally speaking there's enough tolerance that this won't cause an issue. The biggest bridges are mostly hidden inside the robot so they won't affect cosmetics.

====PRO TIPS====
*Do routine maintenance on your printer before printing the big parts: lubricate rods and lead screws, check bed leveling, replace nozzle if worn, do a calibration print, clean your print surface, etc. A few minutes of preparation will help you nail these prints and make a project you can be very proud of!
*Print the large parts (Base, Cap) at the ''start'' of new spools. The last thing you want is to run out of filament 95% of the way through a big part.
*Print the smallest parts (servo stops, hinge rings, Leg pegs, gamepad drawer) near the end of a spool.
*If you have a large format printer, it is tempting to kick off several large parts at once and let it run overnight. We would recommend against that--the chances of killing an entire spool of filament due to an overnight power hit or other failure is just not worth it. Take your time, do the big parts one by one. One or two during the day, one overnight. It will all get done soon enough. An extra few days won't matter in the long run.

== Building the Robot ==

You will need the following tools:
*Included in the kit:
** 2mm hex key. A 5/64 inch hex key will also work. This is in the Gigapod Parts bag.
** 7/64 hex key at least 6" long (150mm). It needs to be long enough to reach screws through access holes in the Base and Cap. This is in the Gigapod Parts Bag.
*Not included in the kit:
** Optional: A marker that can write on dark plastic and still be seen, such as Sharpie Metallic or Sharpie Oil markers (white and yellow work great on dark colored plastic, black or blue work well on light colored plastic). This can be used to make raised lettering on the robot and gamepad more visible.
** Optional: Needle nose pliers can be helpful for holding nuts in place while tightening screws.
** Optional: Slip-joint pliers can be helpful for forcing the skate bearings into their press-fit locations on the Leg Hinges

===IMPORTANT WARNING: POWERFUL SERVOS MAY INJURE YOU===
The motors on Gidget the Gigapod are very powerful compared to the smaller Vorpal the Hexapod (or even Max the Megapod) projects. It is possible for the leg motions to pinch fingers or even possibly break fingers or cause other injuries, possibly severe. When powering on the Gigapod you must keep fingers clear of places where the legs/hips can come together. You should mount the included "Pinch Point" stickers around the Base of the robot to warn others. During public demonstrations, keep adults and especially children away from the robot when it's operating. Little kids will definitely try to touch the robot and could be injured, keep them at a safe distance. In case of electrical issues the legs may move unexpectedly. Turning the power off will release the motors. Never carry the Gigapod when it's powered on. For safety, I disconnect the battery when transporting, just to prevent the possibility that the power switch will get hit accidentally.

If the robot is moving in an out of control manner, use a pencil, book, or rod to hit the power switch from a safe distance. The switch is large and easy to turn off.

You must at all times take standard precautions that are typical with large robotic projects.

If you are building your own electrical system please do not skimp by skipping adding the fuse to the circuit. This project may draw significant amperage and fuse protection is required.

===Step by Step Instructions===
PLEASE NOTE: These instructions are currently in draft state, and I've used diagrams from Max the Megapod here temporarily. The construction is very similar, although you will note some discrepancies such as the BASE for the Megapod comes in 3 parts while in the Gigapod it comes in 6 parts. Still, the construction is analogous. I'll be replacing diagrams for the parts that are not the same first.

====STEP 1: Build the BASE====
* STEP 1A: Take the six outer parts of the base (STL files: Base-1, Base-2, ... Base-6) and arrange them to form the "bowl" of the base. Make sure the servo numbers are in the right order as you move clockwise around the six parts! It's possible to assemble them in the wrong order if you don't check.
* STEP 1B: There are matching screw holes positioned on little rectangular outcroppings on the inside of the top ring, these require screws to bind the three parts together. Use six 1/4-20 by 1.25 inch socket head screws, toothed lock washers, and nuts to secure them. There is an access hole in the rim of the robot to allow the hex key to turn the screw. You may need to hold the nut in place using needle-nose pliers. Repeat for all six sections.
<gallery mode=packed heights=250>
File:Base-Exploded-View.JPG|Line up the six main pieces of the base, ensuring the servo numbers are in order.
File:Access-Hole-In-Base.jpg|Small access holes are strategically placed around the base so the hex key can turn the screws to secure the three base pieces.
File:Securing-Base-Sections.jpg|Use the access hole in the Base parts to secure screws that bind the three base parts together.
File:Megapod-Foam-Squares.jpg|Peel the backing off the foam squares that came with the kit and attach them to the bottom of the base. Stack them on top of each other.
</gallery>
* STEP 1C: Take the Base Bottom part and place it inside the base. There is a nub in one place that will only allow it to be inserted in one orientation. Use six 1/4-20 by 3/4 inch screws with nuts and lock washers in the outer ring of holes in the bottom to secure it to the base. The head of the screw should be on the outside of the robot and nuts should secure the screws on the inside.
* STEP 1D: Take the foam squares that came in your kit and stick them on the bottom of the robot, reasonably centered. These foam pads will reduce the shock and stress on the robot when it goes down to the floor on certain dance moves. Without these pads, the robot leg servos and body structure may undergo too much stress.

====STEP 2: Install the electrical system in the base====
* STEP 2A: Take the potentiometer and remove its dial cap, then unscrew the nut and set these items aside for now (don't lose them). Push the potentiometer shaft from the inside of the chassis into the hole that is surrounded by the markings "STOP", "TST", etc. The wires coming out of the potentiometer should be pointing down. The little metal nub sticking out of the potentiometer should match with a tiny rectangular hole that is near the marking "TST". Put the retaining nut on the potentiometer, hand tighten first and then give it just another half turn or so with pliers if desired. Turn the knob all the way counter-clockwise, then insert the knob so it points to the letter "O" in the word "STOP".
* STEP 2B: Take the large DPST on/off switch (which is attached to the battery holder and power distribution assembly) and thread the switch wires from the inside through the gap at the bottom of the switch hole (see picture). Carefully push the wires one by one through the slot below the switch hole. Once all the wires are through, push the switch into the switch hole. It should be oriented with the "1" to the right. Press carefully into the hole, it should snap firmly in place.
** If the fit is too tight to get the switch in place, lightly sanding or filing the hole to make it a tiny bit larger should work.
<gallery mode=packed heights=200>
File:Switch-Insert-1.jpg|Thread the switch and its wires through the Base, there is an opening under the switch hole.
File:Switch-Insert-2.jpg|Bring the wires up through the small gap below the switch hole. Be careful with the large wires, they require some pressure or some flexing of the plastic to get through.
File:Switch-Insert-3.jpg|All the wires are now coming through the switch hole.
File:Switch-Insert-4.jpg|Press the switch into the hole, it should snap into place. The "1" should be to the right.
</gallery>

====STEP 3: Insert servos in the chassis====
* Next, insert the servo into the chassis as shown in the diagrams. As you insert the servo into the chassis, slowly press it straight into place until it fully seats. Use a servo stopper and one 1/4-20 by 2 inch nylon hex bolts to secure the servos in place. The nylon bolts should retain in the holes even though there are no threads and no nut used. If you find them working themselves loose, you could wrap a bit of electrical tape around the end of the screw to make the fit tighter.
<gallery mode=packed heights=250>
File:Servo-in-Base-2.jpg|Insert each servo with the wire coming out away from the robot as shown here. Press in completely.
File:Servo-in-Base-3.jpg|Insert a servo stopper (shown in red) and secure with nylong bolt. Thread the wire into the body of the robot through the hole as shown.
</gallery>

====STEP 4: Build the Legs====
=====STEP 4A: Assemble Boot and Wheel=====

<gallery mode=packed heights=350>
File:Gigapod-Leg-Assembly-Wheel-Boot.PNG|Parts for Boot and Wheel
File:Gigapod-Leg-Assembly-Bearing-Peg.PNG|Insert Bearing Peg (red)
</gallery>

=====STEP 4B: Insert Servos in Legs=====
The technique is very similar to inserting the servo into the chassis.
*Insert the servo straight into the leg socket so that the wire is coming out of the servo facing away from the plastic leg and the face of the servo with the shaft and servo horn goes into the open faced side of the leg, as shown in the diagram.
*Secure the servo in place with a servo stopper and one 2 inch nylong bolt as you did with the hip servos in the base.
*The servos in the legs are called the "knee" servos. Each leg has a higher number on it, this is the knee number, they run from 6 to 11. Again, write this number on the black connector at the end of the servo wire. PRO TIP: For 6 and 9, underline the number so you don't read them upside down!
*Cut a 12 inch length of braided wire covering. Seal the threads at the end using a lighter for a couple seconds to melt them. Be careful not to set on fire. Thread the knee servo wires through the braided wire covering. This will help protect the servo wires, and also makes the robot look better. You may need to use electrical tape to secure the end of the braided covering to one end of the servo wire.
<gallery mode=packed heights=200>
File:Servo-Insert-Leg-v2.png|Insert Servos in Legs
File:Servo-Leg-Inserted-v2.png|Push until fully seated
File:Servo-Stopper-In-Leg.jpg|Use the servo stopper and two screws to lock the servo in place
</gallery>

*Thread each leg servo wire (with braided covering) into the bottom wire guide slot on the chassis. Each leg servo should be matched with a hip servo plus 6. The legs are marked with the hip number near the top and the knee number below that. For example, the leg marked 6 should be threaded through the wire guide on hip servo 0, leg 7 goes with hip 1, leg 8 goes with hip 2, etc. Add 6 to the hip number to get the leg number.

====STEP 5: Plug in the Servos====
Thread the servo wires into the chassis using the routing holes, as you did with the hip servos. The power distribution harness has marked servo extension sockets for each servo. Each hip servo is marked on the BASE showing its number. the knee servo for each hip is numbered six higher than its corresponding hip. For example, hip servo number 3 will be attached to knee servo number 9, because 3+6=9.

When plugging the servos in, make sure you match the light yellow servo wire to the white servo extension wire, and the dark brown servo wire should match with the black servo extension wire.

====STEP 6: Make Robot Electrical Connections====

If you are self-sourcing, use the diagram below in the electrical section to make the rest of the robot's electrical connections. You'll be using the Robot Arduino Nano (marked "R"), the Servo Driver, Bluetooth Module marked "S", the buzzer, and a bunch of jumper wires. Make sure you use the longer jumper wires for the SDA and SCL connections between the Nano and the Servo Driver.
If you bought a kit from us, all connections are already made, other than plugging the servos into the marked servo extension connectors.

====STEP 7: Assemble the leg hinges====
[[File:Servo-Bracket-Alignment-v1.png|thumb|350px|right|Align the leg hinges as shown here. The bumps (see arrows) should both be near each other when properly aligned. Hold one in each hand with the ends of the U shape between thumb and forefinger.]]
Each leg hinge is composed of two identical U-shaped parts. Take one in each hand and align the two so that the bump (shown in the diagram at the right) are both near each other. Turn one 90 degrees with respect to the other.
*Gently squeeze each piece between thumb and forefinger, which causes the little jaws in the center to open up slightly. Work the two halves together. Keep squeezing harder until the ends slide into place.
*If you used PLA and are finding it hard to bend, briefly soaking the pieces in very hot tap water has been reported to make it easier. Take care not to scald yourself, the water does not have to be boiling, just hot from the tap. You only need to dip the ends that will lock over each other, not the parts you will squeeze. Use caution.
*At this stage, you may notice that the parts are loosely clamped on each other (this depends on plastic used and whether your printer over- or under-extrudes). Don't worry! When you place the leg hinges over a servo, the servo will spread it apart and they will lock together more tightly.
* Use a #6-32 1" screw and matching nut through the center hole of the two joined leg hinges to secure the hinges further. (This is necessary because the gigapod's hinges are under much more stress than in the megapod or hexapod.)
*Insert a 6202ZZ bearing into the socket on one side of the leg hinges. Pliers may be necessary to press them into place. Make sure you clean up any drips inside the recessed area for the skate bearing before attempting to insert the bearings. If you have a lot of trouble getting them in, you could heat up that part of the hinge in hot tap water to soften the plastic, or use a butane lighter (carefully! don't stop moving it) to soften the plastic before inserting the bearing.

====STEP 8: Attach Leg Hinges====
The leg hinges connect the hips to the knees. They only go on one way. If you made sure to align the bumps when assembling the leg hinges, this will result in correct orientation of all legs.
*First place the end that matches the servo horn on about halfway. Make sure the servo horn slides under the little pocket at the end of recessed area that accepts the horn.
*Very slightly bend the U shaped piece while pulling the skate bearing side over the hemispherical bump on the other side of the servo holding area. It's a little easier to do the knees (servos mounted to legs) first, followed by the hips (servos on base).
*NOTE: It will be a tight fit, but it should not be excessively difficult to push the hinge over the bearing.
*When completed, double check to make sure the servo horn went into the covered pocket at the end of its recessed area. This pocket keeps the horn from slipping out of the hinge during stressful operations.

====STEP 9: Enclose the electronics modules in their caddies====

Now things look pretty messy with all those wires hanging loose, let's clean it up by stowing the Arduino Nano, Bluetooth module and Servo Driver in their caddies. The caddies will keep them safe by making sure they can't short out against each other or touch screws, etc.
* '''STEP 9A: Insert Caddy Bars''' Insert the electronics caddy bars as shown in the diagrams below. Notice carefully how they are inserted. Don't insert them upside down, the little hump should be facing inward toward the caddy. You may need to slightly squeeze the forked section at the end to work it into the hole. Once inside, it may be difficult to remove because it will snap into place, so be sure you're putting it in the right way.
<gallery mode=packed heights=300>
File:Insert-Caddy-Bar-1.jpg|Insertion of the caddy bar into the Nano caddy. Notice the orientation, don't put the bar in upside down. The same technique is used for the Servo Driver Caddy.
</gallery>
* '''STEP 9B: Insert the Arduino Nano into its caddy''' Carefully insert the Nano as shown, making sure you don't pull out any of the wires. You may need to wiggle the caddy bar from side to side a bit so that components can slide past it during insertion. Notice that the end of the Nano that has the USB port must go in last.

<gallery mode=packed heights=250>
File:Insert-Nano-In-Caddy-1.jpg|Insert the Nano in the orientation shown.
File:Insert-Nano-In-Caddy-2.jpg|You may need to wiggle it a bit or press on the bar to work it into place.
File:Insert-Nano-In-Caddy-3.jpg|Note how the USB port is accessible through the top after full insertion.
</gallery>

* '''STEP 9C: Insert the Servo Driver into its caddy''' Carefully insert the Servo Driver as shown, making sure you don't pull out any of the wires. You may need to wiggle the caddy bar from side to side a bit so that components can slide past it during insertion. Notice that the end of the Servo controller with wires sticking out of it must go in last.

<gallery mode=packed heights=200>
File:Insert-ServoDriver-In-Caddy-1.jpg|Insert the Servo Driver in the orientation shown.
File:Insert-ServoDriver-In-Caddy-2.jpg|You may need to wiggle it a bit or press on the bar to work it into place.
File:Insert-ServoDriver-In-Caddy-3.jpg|Note that the end with the wires goes in last.
</gallery>

* '''STEP 9D: Insert the HC05 Bluetooth Module''' The diagrams here do not show the wires to make them easier to visualize. The HC05 Bluetooth module with a name beginning with "S" should be used for the robot. For example, the label will read something like "VORP S2944" (the number will differ). The one marked "M" will be used for the gamepad. Slide the HC05 into the side drawer as shown. When inserting, be careful not to pull out the wires, which will be a little tight. Work the wires into the little space provided so they stay clear of the robot's cap when it gets screwed on later.

<gallery mode=packed heights=250>
File:Insert-HC05-in-Caddy-1.jpg|Insert the HC05 into the side drawer of the Nano Caddy as shown.
File:Insert-HC05-in-Caddy-2.jpg|When fully inserted, the indicator light will still be visible through the small oval.
File:Insert-HC05-in-Caddy-3.jpg|The wires should be tucked into the little cavity near the pins of the HC05.
</gallery>

====STEP 10: Power up!====
Make sure the on/off switch is off, and the knob is turned to STOP. Attach the proper batteries (a 9v recharageable NIMH or LI-ON, and an 8.4 volt 4000 or more mAh NIMH with XT60 connector) and power on the robot using the on/off switch. You should hear a beep, a pause, then a second beep. The servos should all twitch into position. If the robot does not move at all, immediately turn the switch off and check your connections again. If some of the servos don't move then gently push them with power off to see if you can free them up. If they still won't move, try pushing them with power applied, but turn off the power within 30 seconds if they're locked up. If you can't get the servo to move it will need to be replaced.

[[File:Servo-Horn-Orientation.png|thumb|right|The servo horn should come straight out from the body at a 90 degree angle as shown here. Do not turn the servo shaft by hand until after it has moved under power!]]

====STEP 11: Insert Servo Horns====
The servo horns are all at random-ish angles right now. In this step we'll make them point in the right direction. The knee servos are not at 90 degrees when the knob is all the way counter clockwise, rather they are at a 30 degree standing angle.

We need to get them to 90 degrees so its easy to align the servo horn, and this is done by going into "Adjust Mode". Turn the knob very slightly clockwise until you hear a beep, then stop. After about one second you will see all the knee servos twitch. This is "adjust servo horn mode". All servos (knees and hips) are now at their halfway point, 90 degrees.

Now you need to take each single arm servo horn and carefully insert it on the shaft so that it is sticking straight out as shown in the figure. You will not always be able to make the horn come totally straight out. This is because there are only 22 little groves (splines) in each shaft, meaning you can in general only come within about 8 degrees of being at a perfect 90 degree angle. This amount of error is acceptable for now, just get it as close as you can. Later we'll use Trim Mode to make fine adjustments.

====STEP 12: Test Knee Positions====
Turn the knob fully counter clockwise (to STOP) and the robot will go into "stand still" mode. Place it on a level surface such as a table top. Do all of the legs touch the ground? If one or more legs don't touch the ground, you need to adjust the servo horn on the knee a little bit so it does touch. Gently pull off the servo bracket. Pull the servo horn off, and put it back on just a little bit moved so the leg would move closer to the ground. Put the servo bracket back on, and see how it looks. Do this until all legs are at least slightly touching the ground. Again, you can't necessarily be perfect due to the 8 degree increments the servo horns can be moved. But you should be able to be close enough that all legs at least slightly touch the ground.

====STEP 13: Insert Servo Screws====
Now that the legs are adjusted, you can insert the M3x12 screws (with M3 lock washers) into the servo horns to lock them in place. Note that you will NOT be using the screws that were in the little bag the servos came in, you'll be using the separate pack of screws, which are longer than the ones in the servo bag. Do not overtighten these screws, as you could possibly crack the servo brackets. Just turn the screws until you start to feel resistance, then turn a quarter turn more and stop.

====STEP 14: Test the Servos====
*'''STEP 14A: Using TST Mode'''
**To test whether every servo is working, put the robot on something that will lift its legs off the table top, but won't interfere with the legs (a small box or stack of books will work).
**Start with the knob on STOP, then slowly turn it clockwise. You'll hear one beep (Adjust mode), then a second beep (Test mode). Stop turning and the robot will go into "individual servo test mode". In this mode, every hip servo will move, one by one. When all the hips have moved, every leg will move, one by one. You should see every servo move, in order. If some don't move, check your connections. A common error is to plug a servo connector into the servo controller backwards (i.e. the brown wire is matched with the yellow pin instead of the black pin). If the servos do not move in a sensible order, that probably means you plugged a couple of servos into the wrong sockets in the electrical harness.

*'''STEP 14B: Test Using Demo Mode'''
**Ok, everything looks good, so time for a full test. Turn the knob to STOP, then put the robot on the floor, somewhere that has at least a few feet of room in each direction. (Caution: it's tempting to do this on a table top, but unless you have a huge table this is not advisable, Max will run pretty fast at some points during the demo.)
**Turn the knob to DEMO, and about one second later the robot will go through a series of movements to demonstrate some of the things it can do. The full demo only takes about 30 seconds, then repeats. Here, you are looking for the robot to, for example, be able to get back up off the floor after doing some of its dance moves.
**If the robot struggles to get off the floor, you may have a battery that is not fully charged, or there may be drips or other obstructions stopping some legs from moving fully. See the [[Vorpal Combat_Hexapod Troubleshooting Guide|Trouble Shooting Guide]] for more information about different kinds of issues that can occur. That guide was written for the small robot, but most of the things that can go wrong with the Gigapod are similar to the things that can go wrong with Vorpal The Hexapod.

====STEP 15: Store electronics and wires in the Base====
Carefully stow the caddies into the base, using any available convenient space. NOTE: Unlike the small hexapod and megapod, the Gigapod saves weight by not having any service access covers. This makes it look messier when the top is off, but the savings in weight was necessary to avoid servo stress.
<gallery mode=packed heights=250>
File:All-Electronics-Inserted-In-Base.jpg|Carefully stow the caddies into the base, being careful not to pull out any wires.
</gallery>

====STEP 16: Assemble the Cap====
*'''STEP 16A: Assemble the Four Cap Parts'''
**First assemble the three large pieces after removing the support coming out of the center. Be aware that there is a correct ordering to them, the two flaps that stick out near the bottom need to be opposite each other so the cap can slot into the Base and lock in place. Use #6-32 x 1 inch screws plus nylox locking nuts to secure the three parts together as shown. There are access holes around the rim that allow the hex key to reach the screws. Use nuts and locking washers to secure the screws.
**Secure the top of the cap onto the bottom three pieces using three 1 inch #6 socket screws and their associated nylox locking nuts.
<gallery mode=packed heights=250>
File:Cap-Exploded.JPG|Arrangement of the four Cap parts. Note that this diagram shows the support in place, this should actually be removed prior to assembly.
File:CAP-Assembly-order.JPG|Make sure the two flaps at the rim are opposite each other when ordering the three main parts.
</gallery>
* '''STEP 16B: Put Hook-and-loop on Cap''' Peel and stick on the "hook" side of a 1" piece of hook-and-loop on each flat circular decoration holder on the cap.
* '''STEP 16C: Decorate''' If desired, use a permanent marker to color the Vorpal "V" on top of the Cap. Oil markers work well. On light colors of plastic a black permanent marker will also work.
* '''STEP 16D: Put Cap on the Hexapod'''
**Screw the cap on the robot by lining up the tabs with the matching slots in the rim of the base. Turn the cap clockwise to lock it in place. IMPORTANT: Do not press down on the robot to insert the cap when the robot is under power standing on its legs! You can damage the leg motors by doing this. It is best to turn the robot off, and either support the bottom of the Base with one hand and press the Cap on with the other, or set the Base down on the table top or floor with legs out to the sides so they don't take pressure.
**If the cap is too loose and swivels while the robot moves, this can be fixed by putting a bit of tape on the cap's flaps to make them a little thicker. The tightness of the cap depends a lot on printer settings, over- or under-extrusion, etc.

====STEP 17: Warning Label====
There are self-stick choking hazard warning labels and also several pinch point warning labels in the hexapod parts bag. Peel the backing off one choking hazard lable and place it on the bottom of the robot, near the center. Retain the second label for the gamepad. The pinch point warnings should be placed around the body of the robot, above the legs, in visible positions. Depending on what kind of plastic you're using, they might or might not stick well. If they don't stick, use glue (such as cyanoacrilate "super glue" or even hot glue) to secure them. The warning labels are not optional! They are necessary for safety. The motors are powerful and can snap your fingers like a twig, or cause severe pinch injuries, sprains, or bruises.

==== Step 18: Trimming the Servos ====
When you assembled the servo horns onto the servos, you probably were not able to get them all to come out exactly at a 90 degree angle. That's not your fault: the servo horns only have 22 possible positions in which they can be installed, so at best you can come within plus or minus 8 degrees of perfection.

Now that you have the gamepad working, you can make fine adjustments to the servo positions using "Trim Mode". In this special gamepad mode, you can adjust all the servos to within a fraction of a degree. These adjustments are saved in the robot's EEPROM, which is memory on the Nano that retains data even when powered off. So, you only need to trim once.

Complete instructions on how to use trim mode are in the wiki page: [[Vorpal The Hexapod Trim Mode Guide]]. That guide was written for the smaller robot, but the instructions are identical for the Gigapod.

NOTE: although this step is optional, it is strongly recommended because your robot will walk straighter and all the servos will share equally in lifting the robot's weight, which will make them last longer.

====Step 19: Assembling Eye Decorations====
Peel and stick a piece of "loop" from the supplied hook and loop fasteners on the back of the two eye pieces. This allows you to stick the eyes on the Cap's matching "hook" areas.

NOTE: There are extra hook and loop circles included in your kit. You can create your own attachments, nameplates, etc. using these.

==Electrical Connections: Robot==

===NOTES ON JUMPER WIRES===

====Wire Lengths====
There are two different lengths of female-female Dupont jumper wires used to make most connections. The longer ones (20cm) are only used for the Hexapod's accessory port connections. The shorter ones are used for all the connections on the Gamepad and all the connections on the Hexapod between the Arduino Nano, Servo controller and Bluetooth module.

====Wire Color Conventions====

Please follow these conventions when selecting wire colors:
* For +5V, Vin, and similar positive voltage connections, use either RED or ORANGE.
* For GND and other negative electrical connections, use BLACK or BROWN.
* For the connectors that sit at the mouth of the accessory port (used for optional sensors) colors are suggested below in the instructions. By following these suggestions you will make your life easier when connecting sensors!
* For all other connections, you can use any color you want, it's arbitrary.

====If Jumper Wires Are Too Loose====
Sometimes you will find a wire whose connector does not grip the pin well enough. It might fall off very easily or just by gravity alone. If that happens, you have a few options:
* There are extra wires in your kit. If you find a wire that's too loose, just use a different wire.
* Using the hex key, you can put the jumper housing on a flat surface then press on the metal showing through the plastic connector, which will tighten up the jumper wire's grip. Don't go too overboard on pressing though or you might make it too hard to insert.
* Alternatively, you could use electrical tape after inserting all the wires on a module (such as the Nano) to effectively attach together all the little plastic female connector housings. In that way, the connectors that do grip will help hold in the ones that are too loose. Some people also like using hot glue for this purpose. (Personally, I don't like using hot glue, as it makes it harder to change connections if you hooked something up incorrectly.)

===NANO PIN CONNECTIONS===
[[File:Megapod-Nano-Connections-v1.JPG|thumb|600px|right|Diagram of Nano connections for the Hexapod. Jumpers marked AP are routed to the Accessory Port for use with add-ons like sensors. Click for larger image.]]
* ''Digital IO Pins:''
** D0, D1 are reserved because they are used for uploading programs to the robot, so nothing will be connected there.
** D2, D3 No connection.
** D4 Buzzer Signal (white wire)
** D5 through D13 No connection. These pins are reserved for future expansion.

* ''Analog Pins:''
** A0 Potentiometer signal (white wire)
** A1 Potentiometer Power (red wire)
** A2 Potentiometer Ground (black wire)
** A3 No connection.
** A4 Servo Controller SDA
** A5 Servo Controller SCL
** A6, A7 No connection.

* ''Power Pins:''
** +5V pin on Nano connects to any of the +5V RED wires coming from the BEC on the power distribution harness.
** GND pin on Nano connects to any of the GND BLACK wires coming from the BEC on the power distribution harness.

===Servo Driver Power Pins===
* Port 0 RED pin on the Servo Driver connects to any of the +5V RED wires coming from the BEC on the power distribution harness.
* Port 0 BLACK GND pin on the Servo Driver connects to any of the GND BLACK wires coming from the BEC on the power distribution harness.

=== Bluetooth Module Power ===
* +5V on HC05 connects to any RED Dupont connector coming off the BEC.
* GND on HC05 connects to any BLACK Dupont connector coming off the BEC.

=== Buzzer Power ===
* Plug the buzzer into the unused port 15 on the servo driver, making sure the red and black wires on the buzzer power match the red and black rows of pins on the servo driver.

=== Servo Driver ===
[[File:Megapod-ServoDriverConnections.jpg|thumb|600px|right|Diagram of Servo Controller pins you will use in this project. Each servo motor has a 3 wire connector that should be plugged into the corresponding servo number extension connector in the power distribution harness. The white wires coming out of the harness in groups of four should be connected to the yellow line or ports, matching the number ranges to port numbers. Note that the black and red rows of pins are not used, power is provided to the servos through the power distribution harness. Click for larger image.]]
* Connect the 12 servos to power distribution harness connectors marked with port numbers corresponding to the servo marking (0 to 11). Make sure the signal wire (yellow) is oriented correctly and matches the yellow plastic header pin.
* Connect the groups of four white wires which are marked with servo port numbers to the Servo Driver yellow pins, matching the Servo Driver pin number to the port numbers written on the 4-pin Dupont connectors coming out of the power distribution harness.
* Connect one of the +5V RED regulated BEC outputs to the RED port 0 pin of the Servo Driver. Connect one of the GND black pins coming out of the BEC to the BLACK port 0 GND pin on the Servo Driver.
* On one short side of the Servo Controller you will find a VCC and V+ pin right next to each other. Use a shunt (small black connector that goes over two pins) to connect those together if one is not already installed. Without this shunt the Servo Driver will not work.
* SDA and SCL go to A4 and A5 on the Nano, respectively.



== Building the Gamepad ==
The gamepad for Gidget the Gigapod is identical to the Gamepad for Vorpal The Hexapod (and also Max the Megapod).

Please see instructions on [[Vorpal_The_Hexapod_Building_Instructions#Building_the_Gamepadd|the Vorpal Hexapod Gamepad Assembly instructions]].

{{Gigapod Quick Links}}

Gidget The Gigapod Assembly Instructions

2021-03-19T15:09:40Z

Vorpalwiki: /* STEP 4A: Assemble Boot and Wheel */

==LIMITED AVAILABILITY==

Our kits for this project are special order at this time. Allow two weeks for us to ship. Because the parts are relatively heavy, shipping to areas outside the USA is expensive. For makers outside the USA, you may want to try to acquire the parts locally. But beware of subsitutions! Walking robots have very precise requirements and any substitutions of parts may cause the project not to function as expected.

Warning: The 3D printed parts for this project consume a lot of plastic and the print (on our own printers) is over 200 hours for all the parts. (It's not 200 hours straight, it's multiple print jobs each running 6 to 16 hours.) You shouldn't attempt this unless you're prepared for long print times and your printer is well tuned to make failures rare.

NEW: our Megapod and Gigapod kits are now standard with the "Quickbuild" electrical system. This cuts over an hour off the build time.

==Gidget The Gigapod Construction==
[[File:Giga-Mega-Hexa-Stacked.jpg|right|thumb|Gigapod, Megapod, Hexapod relative sizes]]
Gidget The Gigapod is a very large, 3d printed, hexapod robot. This page gives complete instructions for building this project. If you are new to 3d printing, you probably don't want to start with this one, though. Please consider our smaller [[Vorpal The Hexapod]] project instead.
==BILL OF MATERIALS (BOM) FOR GIDGET THE GIGAPOD==
===Notes on Sourcing Parts Yourself===
* These instructions assume you have purchased a kit from us (kits are currently a special order item). If you are sourcing your own parts, please be aware of the following additional information:
**If you are sourcing your own parts, you need to build the power distribution connector assembly. This is identical to the power distribution system for [[Max The Megapod]]. For diagrams see [[Max The Megapod Battery/Switch Construction]] except that it uses an XT60 connector instead of Tamaya for the large battery, and it uses a 30 amp fuse instead of a 15 amp fuse. This will take about 2 hours of soldering and labelling work.
**Also see important information on that page if you are sourcing your own BEC.
**If you are sourcing your own Bluetooth modules, please be aware that you will need to configure them to auto-pair and to have a UART speed of 38400 BAUD. Every module brand's firmware is a bit different so it's not possible for us to give you universal instructions on how to program them. We assume that if you source your own parts you are familiar with how to configure Bluetooth modules using AT-commands. (You can find tutorials online or videos on youtube, but like we said, different modules may not exactly match instructions you will find so be prepared to fiddle around a bit). Please do not ask our customer support for help on this topic. We sell pre-configured modules that auto-pair on boot for a very reasonable price.
**If you are sourcing your own Arduino Nano modules, you will need to flash the robot and gamepad code on them. You can find the latest stable release of code at the [https://tinyurl.com/VORPALFILES Vorpal Hexapod Public Dropbox folder]. The source code tree is posted in our github repository, but the top of that tree may not be stable. Note: there is currently no difference in software between the large and small versions of the hexapod other than a single #define called HEXSIZE. For the gigapod, this should be set to 2.
* Please be very careful about substitutions. You might think you can substitute cheaper parts for the ones specified here. Don't bet on it. Walking robots are extremely difficult to design, and we've chosen each part for a good reason. For example, if you try to substitute cheaper servos you are very likely to find that they don't provide enough torque for the robot to stand up, or they burn out within minutes due to being over-stressed. If you substitute a different battery voltage, you'll either fry the servos or they won't have enough torque. It took 1,000 hours of work to design the smaller hexapod on which this one is based, then another 500 hours of redesign, testing, and tuning to get the big version working well. If you want to try substitutions, okay, but please don't expect it to work without many hours of adjustments and testing.
* Full kits of parts as well as individual parts will be available on [http://store.vorpalrobotics.com The Vorpal Robotics Store]. If you are new to Arduino and robotics we strongly recommend you purchase a kit instead of trying to self-source parts (and truthfully, if you're not experienced with this kind of project you really should build the smaller [[Vorpal The Hexapod]] kit first. NOTE: kits will not be available until approximately Fall 2020 due to delays in getting parts from China due to the virus pandemic.
* Our kits cut 4 to 5 hours off the build time, bringing it to typically 2 to 3 or so hours. The kits have all soldering done, programs are already loaded on the Nanos, Bluetooth modules are properly configured, and you know you have all the right parts to work together. About half the people who self-source parts end up buying parts that are incorrect or are so cheap that they will quickly fail (and they end up spending more money and far more time than if they had simply bought a kit to start with!)

=== ROBOT BOM ===
[[File:Choking-Hazard-Image.jpg|right|350px]]
[[File:PinchPoint-Warning.JPG|right|350px]]

* ''Electronics:''
** Passive Piezo Buzzer module and 3 wire cable (see image) [[File:Passive-Piezo-Buzzer-Module.jpg|right|thumb|Passive Piezo Buzzer Module]]
** Arduino Nano, 5V, 16 mHz, ATMEGA328 or similar (marked RM in our kit to indicate it is pre-loaded with Gigapod robot software)
** Rotary potentiometer, 10K Ohms, 6mm shaft diameter, with 3 wires pre-soldered. Also, matching dial cap and nut. If you are self-sourcing see our instructions: [[Max The Megapod Battery/Switch Construction]]
** 1 x HC05 BlueTooth Module with F-F jumper wires for making connections (our kit electronics are pre-wired for you)
** 1 x Servo Controller module (Adafruit 16-channel 12-bit I2C PWM/Servo driver or Adafruit clone) with F-F jumper wires for making connections, plus 1 two-pin shunt tying V+ to VCC
** 12 x DS5160 SSG 180 degree, 60 kg-cm torque servo motors with metal servo horns. Be sure you order the 180 degree version, these servos also come in a 270 degree version.
** 1 x Power distribution wiring harness with DPST on/off switch, Fuse, XT60 battery connector, 3A 5V BEC, and servo extension connectors. If you are self-sourcing see our wiring instructions: [[Max The Megapod Battery/Switch Construction|Circuit Diagrams]]. (The battery/switch circuit for the Gigapod is identical to that of the Megapod except it uses an XT60 connector for the large battery and it uses a 30 amp fuse instead of a 15 amp fuse.)
* ''3D Printed Parts:''
** 6 Robot Base Parts and bottom plate to hold the parts together.
** 4 Cap parts which screw together to form the cap of the robot.
** 6 x Legs
** 6 x Feet that will be assembled with wheels.
** 6 x TPU Boots to provide better traction. These should be printed in TPU or other flexible plastics so they absorb some impact during walking.
** 12 x Servo Stops. These parts hold the servos in their compartments both in the base and the legs.
** 12 x Servo Bearing Pegs. These insert into the servo compartments and provide a secure place for the bearings to sit.
** 12 x Leg Hinge halves with Leg Hinge Rings. The rings stop layer separation issues under stress.
** 1 x Electronics Caddy to hold Arduino Nano
** 1 x Electronics Caddy to hold the Servo Driver
** 2 x Eye/glasses Decoration
** 8 x 1 inch diameter hook-and-loop self stick circles to attach of eyes and other decorations
* ''Screws and Fasteners''
** 12 x Nylon bolts 1/4-20 x 2" long. These can be partially threaded. Note that it is important for these to be made of nylon for weight savings. These are used to secure servos in place using the servo stopper part.
** 12 x M3x20mm button head screws (with matching flat washers and external tooth washers) to secure servo arms to servo through the screw hole in the hinge.
** 6 x #6-32 x 1.75" long cap screws plus nuts to attach boots onto the end of the leg
** 6 x #6-32 x 1" long cap screws plus nuts to provide axles for the boot wheels.
** 6 x 1/4-20 x 1.25" long cap screw plus nylox locking nuts for holding the BASE parts together
** 6 x 1/4-20 x 3/4" long cap screw plus nylox locking nuts for holding the BOTTOM onto the BASE assembly
** 6 x #6-32 cap screws plus nylox locking nuts for holding the CAP and CAP TOPPER parts together
** 6 x #6-32 cap screws plus nylox locking nuts for holding the LEG HINGES together. Note that the smaller versions of the robot depend on a snap-together system to hold the hinges together, but the larger Gigapod requires a screw through the center hole to ensure the hinges remain together.
** If you are self-sourcing and building your own electrical system, you will also need 10 x #6-32 x 1/2" screws to hold the power distribution plastic covers together. If you buy our kit, these are already installed on the wiring harness.
* ''Miscellaneous Mechanical Parts:''
** 12 x 6202ZZ Double Metal Seal Bearings 15x35x11mm for leg hinges
** 12 x 608zz Skate Bearings with nylon coated wheel, dimensions: 27.5mm diameter wheel, 8mm inner diameter on bearing, 8mm wide.
* ''Tools Required (Not included in kit)''
** Hex drivers for the various sized bolts and screws.
** Needle nose pliers are useful for holding the nuts while assembling BASE and CAP parts.
** 3 x Pinch Point Stickers. Place these around the robot Base to warn onlookers not to touch the robot. Some kinds of plastic may not stick well to the adhesive, you may need to secure with hot glue or superglue or similar.
* ''Batteries and Chargers''
** The Gigapod uses a 4200 mAH (a little more is okay but don't go too high due to weight considerations) 7-cell NIMH battery (8.4 Volts) with male XT60 connector and compatible charger, such as: [https://www.batteryspace.com/nimhbatterypack84v4200mahhumpbatterypacksforrctraxxasandlosietc.aspx BatterySpace 42000 mAH 8.4 V NIMH] (We use that one for demos with the 14 gauge wire option, and we solder on an XT60 male connector in-house. You get about 30 minutes of run time with this battery.)
**The Gigapod also requires one 9v battery, we recommend NIMH or LI-ON rechargeable with compatible charger.
** The gamepad takes any kind of standard 9v rectangular batter, either rechargeable or disposable work fine. These are commonly available from many sources. We recommend rechargeable NIMH or LI-ON 9v batteries with compatible charger.
** Note that we do not provide batteries or chargers with our kits due to licenses required to ship batteries.
NOTE ON BATTERY SAFETY: Never leave batteries in the Gigapod or gamepad after use. If either one gets turned on accidentally, overdraining the battery may damage or destroy it. As soon as the Gigapod has trouble moving or sags under its own weight, immediately stop and replace with fresh batteries.

=== GAMEPAD BOM AND ASSEMBLY ===
The gamepad for Gidget the Gigapod is identical to the gamepad for Vorpal The Hexapod. See instructions for the gamepad here: [[Vorpal_The_Hexapod_Building_Instructions#Building_the_Gamepadd|Vorpal The Hexapod Gamepad Assembly instructions]]

==Printing the Plastic Parts==

This section assumes you have basic familiarity with 3D printing and 3D printing terminology. If not, you might want to reference online materials such as youtube videos or information from your 3D printer manufacturer before attempting this project.

Please note: it takes over 200 hours to print this project. This is not a project for the faint of heart, or for people who are not experienced in 3d printing and have not tuned and maintained their printers. If you are a beginner at 3d printing, we strongly recommend that you start with our smaller [[Vorpal the Hexapod]] project. It's a 16 hour print, requires a lot less bridging, and less than a tenth as much practice.

===OBTAINING THE STL FILES===
We have posted the STL files to [http://www.thingiverse.com Thingiverse]. Search for "Gidget the Gigapod" and they should pop right up.

Please help us by rating the Gidget the Gigapod project (or clicking on the LIKE button, COLLECT button, etc.)!

Please post your builds to places like Thingiverse, pictures to FaceBook, Instagram, etc., and videos of your robot to YouTube! This will help us grow and continue having the resources creating cool new projects for our community.

===MINIMUM PRINTER REQUIREMENTS===
*The bed size should be at least 275mm cube (about 11 inches cube). The largest parts are the six Base and the 3 Cap parts in the x and y directions, and in the Z direction the Leg is largest, so these are the limiting factor on bed size.
* For almost all parts, we recommend PLA PRO plastic (or similiar enhanced PLA plastics that may go under other names like PLA+). These are large parts and so PLA is preferred due it being resistant to warping.
* The boots part is best made of TPU plastic, or similar flexible plastics, to reduce the impact of walking on floors.
===AMOUNT OF PLASTIC FILAMENT===
* About 6 to 7 kg of PLA plastic are needed to print the entire robot and gamepad, assuming no print failures.
* About 200 grams of TPU (or similar flexible plastic) are needed to print the wheels. It is possible to print the wheels out of harder plastics but in that case they might scratch wooden floors, so we suggest TPU or some other flexible, soft plastic.
* The amount of plastic used does depend on plastic type and exact print settings though, so your mileage may vary.

===RECOMMENDED PLASTICS===
*ABS, PETG, and PLA all work well. However, because there are some very large parts, ABS may cause you some warping issues if you don't have a heated bed, enclosure, and a printer tuned well for large parts. PLA is generally easier and has fewer issues with corners peeling off the print bed.
*We use eSun PLA PRO for this project and for us it works very well. PLA PRO is a little more flexible and stronger than typical PLA. We have no problems with warping even on the largest parts.
*For the boots, we used Sainsmart TPU and it works very well. Other flexible plastics would probably also be fine.
*This project requires less flexibility than the smaller Vorpal The Hexapod project, so ABS is not at all required for this project.
===PRINTING TIPS===
This project has been finely tuned to make it easy to 3D print. No additional supports are required for any of the parts (there is a support built into the models for the CAP parts and there are tiny supports built into the hinge parts). In some cases you may want to use brims or rafts to help parts adhere to the print surface. These are large, long prints so using a brim for a little added safety is probably prudent.

There is some significant bridging with some spans up to 45mm (1.8"). It is important to tune your printer and make sure it can handle the bridging before attempting the large parts. A little sagging is ok and a drip or two can be easily removed, but you need decent ability to bridge. There are bridge testing and calibration models posted on sites like Thingiverse that may help you tune your printer before trying the big parts. There are numerous "3d printing tips" type postings on the internet that make suggestions for how to tune for features like bridging.

====PRINT SETTINGS====
We print using the following settings on a Lulzbot TAZ 6 with 0.5mm nozzle:
* 0.4 layer thickness (or whatever layer thickness is the largest that will work on your printer)
* 2mm walls (i.e. four perimeters for a 0.5mm nozzle)
* 1.6 mm top and bottom (i.e. four layers at 0.4mm layer height)
* 25% infill
* You can print with thinner layers if your printer does not support 0.4mm layers or if you want a more refined look, it will just take longer. If you have a large nozzle (0.8mm or more) you should be able to go with bigger layers and save a lot of print time. Please report your findings to us at support@vorpalrobotics.com so we can advise future Makers of this project.

====POST PRINT====
Other than removing brims/rafts, cap and hinge built in supports, and the occasional drip, there is not any special post-processing required after printing. Some of the big bridges might seem a little saggy but generally speaking there's enough tolerance that this won't cause an issue. The biggest bridges are mostly hidden inside the robot so they won't affect cosmetics.

====PRO TIPS====
*Do routine maintenance on your printer before printing the big parts: lubricate rods and lead screws, check bed leveling, replace nozzle if worn, do a calibration print, clean your print surface, etc. A few minutes of preparation will help you nail these prints and make a project you can be very proud of!
*Print the large parts (Base, Cap) at the ''start'' of new spools. The last thing you want is to run out of filament 95% of the way through a big part.
*Print the smallest parts (servo stops, hinge rings, Leg pegs, gamepad drawer) near the end of a spool.
*If you have a large format printer, it is tempting to kick off several large parts at once and let it run overnight. We would recommend against that--the chances of killing an entire spool of filament due to an overnight power hit or other failure is just not worth it. Take your time, do the big parts one by one. One or two during the day, one overnight. It will all get done soon enough. An extra few days won't matter in the long run.

== Building the Robot ==

You will need the following tools:
*Included in the kit:
** 2mm hex key. A 5/64 inch hex key will also work. This is in the Gigapod Parts bag.
** 7/64 hex key at least 6" long (150mm). It needs to be long enough to reach screws through access holes in the Base and Cap. This is in the Gigapod Parts Bag.
*Not included in the kit:
** Optional: A marker that can write on dark plastic and still be seen, such as Sharpie Metallic or Sharpie Oil markers (white and yellow work great on dark colored plastic, black or blue work well on light colored plastic). This can be used to make raised lettering on the robot and gamepad more visible.
** Optional: Needle nose pliers can be helpful for holding nuts in place while tightening screws.
** Optional: Slip-joint pliers can be helpful for forcing the skate bearings into their press-fit locations on the Leg Hinges

===IMPORTANT WARNING: POWERFUL SERVOS MAY INJURE YOU===
The motors on Gidget the Gigapod are very powerful compared to the smaller Vorpal the Hexapod (or even Max the Megapod) projects. It is possible for the leg motions to pinch fingers or even possibly break fingers or cause other injuries, possibly severe. When powering on the Gigapod you must keep fingers clear of places where the legs/hips can come together. You should mount the included "Pinch Point" stickers around the Base of the robot to warn others. During public demonstrations, keep adults and especially children away from the robot when it's operating. Little kids will definitely try to touch the robot and could be injured, keep them at a safe distance. In case of electrical issues the legs may move unexpectedly. Turning the power off will release the motors. Never carry the Gigapod when it's powered on. For safety, I disconnect the battery when transporting, just to prevent the possibility that the power switch will get hit accidentally.

If the robot is moving in an out of control manner, use a pencil, book, or rod to hit the power switch from a safe distance. The switch is large and easy to turn off.

You must at all times take standard precautions that are typical with large robotic projects.

If you are building your own electrical system please do not skimp by skipping adding the fuse to the circuit. This project may draw significant amperage and fuse protection is required.

===Step by Step Instructions===
PLEASE NOTE: These instructions are currently in draft state, and I've used diagrams from Max the Megapod here temporarily. The construction is very similar, although you will note some discrepancies such as the BASE for the Megapod comes in 3 parts while in the Gigapod it comes in 6 parts. Still, the construction is analogous. I'll be replacing diagrams for the parts that are not the same first.

====STEP 1: Build the BASE====
* STEP 1A: Take the six outer parts of the base (STL files: Base-1, Base-2, ... Base-6) and arrange them to form the "bowl" of the base. Make sure the servo numbers are in the right order as you move clockwise around the six parts! It's possible to assemble them in the wrong order if you don't check.
* STEP 1B: There are matching screw holes positioned on little rectangular outcroppings on the inside of the top ring, these require screws to bind the three parts together. Use six 1/4-20 by 1.25 inch socket head screws, toothed lock washers, and nuts to secure them. There is an access hole in the rim of the robot to allow the hex key to turn the screw. You may need to hold the nut in place using needle-nose pliers. Repeat for all six sections.
<gallery mode=packed heights=250>
File:Base-Exploded-View.JPG|Line up the six main pieces of the base, ensuring the servo numbers are in order.
File:Access-Hole-In-Base.jpg|Small access holes are strategically placed around the base so the hex key can turn the screws to secure the three base pieces.
File:Securing-Base-Sections.jpg|Use the access hole in the Base parts to secure screws that bind the three base parts together.
File:Megapod-Foam-Squares.jpg|Peel the backing off the foam squares that came with the kit and attach them to the bottom of the base. Stack them on top of each other.
</gallery>
* STEP 1C: Take the Base Bottom part and place it inside the base. There is a nub in one place that will only allow it to be inserted in one orientation. Use six 1/4-20 by 3/4 inch screws with nuts and lock washers in the outer ring of holes in the bottom to secure it to the base. The head of the screw should be on the outside of the robot and nuts should secure the screws on the inside.
* STEP 1D: Take the foam squares that came in your kit and stick them on the bottom of the robot, reasonably centered. These foam pads will reduce the shock and stress on the robot when it goes down to the floor on certain dance moves. Without these pads, the robot leg servos and body structure may undergo too much stress.

====STEP 2: Install the electrical system in the base====
* STEP 2A: Take the potentiometer and remove its dial cap, then unscrew the nut and set these items aside for now (don't lose them). Push the potentiometer shaft from the inside of the chassis into the hole that is surrounded by the markings "STOP", "TST", etc. The wires coming out of the potentiometer should be pointing down. The little metal nub sticking out of the potentiometer should match with a tiny rectangular hole that is near the marking "TST". Put the retaining nut on the potentiometer, hand tighten first and then give it just another half turn or so with pliers if desired. Turn the knob all the way counter-clockwise, then insert the knob so it points to the letter "O" in the word "STOP".
* STEP 2B: Take the large DPST on/off switch (which is attached to the battery holder and power distribution assembly) and thread the switch wires from the inside through the gap at the bottom of the switch hole (see picture). Carefully push the wires one by one through the slot below the switch hole. Once all the wires are through, push the switch into the switch hole. It should be oriented with the "1" to the right. Press carefully into the hole, it should snap firmly in place.
** If the fit is too tight to get the switch in place, lightly sanding or filing the hole to make it a tiny bit larger should work.
<gallery mode=packed heights=200>
File:Switch-Insert-1.jpg|Thread the switch and its wires through the Base, there is an opening under the switch hole.
File:Switch-Insert-2.jpg|Bring the wires up through the small gap below the switch hole. Be careful with the large wires, they require some pressure or some flexing of the plastic to get through.
File:Switch-Insert-3.jpg|All the wires are now coming through the switch hole.
File:Switch-Insert-4.jpg|Press the switch into the hole, it should snap into place. The "1" should be to the right.
</gallery>

====STEP 3: Insert servos in the chassis====
* Next, insert the servo into the chassis as shown in the diagrams. As you insert the servo into the chassis, slowly press it straight into place until it fully seats. Use a servo stopper and one 1/4-20 by 2 inch nylon hex bolts to secure the servos in place. The nylon bolts should retain in the holes even though there are no threads and no nut used. If you find them working themselves loose, you could wrap a bit of electrical tape around the end of the screw to make the fit tighter.
<gallery mode=packed heights=250>
File:Servo-in-Base-2.jpg|Insert each servo with the wire coming out away from the robot as shown here. Press in completely.
File:Servo-in-Base-3.jpg|Insert a servo stopper (shown in red) and secure with nylong bolt. Thread the wire into the body of the robot through the hole as shown.
</gallery>

====STEP 4: Build the Legs====
=====STEP 4A: Assemble Boot and Wheel=====

<gallery mode=packed heights=250>
File:Gigapod-Leg-Assembly-Wheel-Boot.PNG|Parts for Boot and Wheel
File:Gigapod-Leg-Assembly-Bearing-Peg.PNG|Insert Bearing Peg (red)
</gallery>

=====STEP 4B: Insert Servos in Legs=====
The technique is very similar to inserting the servo into the chassis.
*Insert the servo straight into the leg socket so that the wire is coming out of the servo facing away from the plastic leg and the face of the servo with the shaft and servo horn goes into the open faced side of the leg, as shown in the diagram.
*Secure the servo in place with a servo stopper and one 2 inch nylong bolt as you did with the hip servos in the base.
*The servos in the legs are called the "knee" servos. Each leg has a higher number on it, this is the knee number, they run from 6 to 11. Again, write this number on the black connector at the end of the servo wire. PRO TIP: For 6 and 9, underline the number so you don't read them upside down!
*Cut a 12 inch length of braided wire covering. Seal the threads at the end using a lighter for a couple seconds to melt them. Be careful not to set on fire. Thread the knee servo wires through the braided wire covering. This will help protect the servo wires, and also makes the robot look better. You may need to use electrical tape to secure the end of the braided covering to one end of the servo wire.
<gallery mode=packed heights=200>
File:Servo-Insert-Leg-v2.png|Insert Servos in Legs
File:Servo-Leg-Inserted-v2.png|Push until fully seated
File:Servo-Stopper-In-Leg.jpg|Use the servo stopper and two screws to lock the servo in place
</gallery>

*Thread each leg servo wire (with braided covering) into the bottom wire guide slot on the chassis. Each leg servo should be matched with a hip servo plus 6. The legs are marked with the hip number near the top and the knee number below that. For example, the leg marked 6 should be threaded through the wire guide on hip servo 0, leg 7 goes with hip 1, leg 8 goes with hip 2, etc. Add 6 to the hip number to get the leg number.

====STEP 5: Plug in the Servos====
Thread the servo wires into the chassis using the routing holes, as you did with the hip servos. The power distribution harness has marked servo extension sockets for each servo. Each hip servo is marked on the BASE showing its number. the knee servo for each hip is numbered six higher than its corresponding hip. For example, hip servo number 3 will be attached to knee servo number 9, because 3+6=9.

When plugging the servos in, make sure you match the light yellow servo wire to the white servo extension wire, and the dark brown servo wire should match with the black servo extension wire.

====STEP 6: Make Robot Electrical Connections====

If you are self-sourcing, use the diagram below in the electrical section to make the rest of the robot's electrical connections. You'll be using the Robot Arduino Nano (marked "R"), the Servo Driver, Bluetooth Module marked "S", the buzzer, and a bunch of jumper wires. Make sure you use the longer jumper wires for the SDA and SCL connections between the Nano and the Servo Driver.
If you bought a kit from us, all connections are already made, other than plugging the servos into the marked servo extension connectors.

====STEP 7: Assemble the leg hinges====
[[File:Servo-Bracket-Alignment-v1.png|thumb|350px|right|Align the leg hinges as shown here. The bumps (see arrows) should both be near each other when properly aligned. Hold one in each hand with the ends of the U shape between thumb and forefinger.]]
Each leg hinge is composed of two identical U-shaped parts. Take one in each hand and align the two so that the bump (shown in the diagram at the right) are both near each other. Turn one 90 degrees with respect to the other.
*Gently squeeze each piece between thumb and forefinger, which causes the little jaws in the center to open up slightly. Work the two halves together. Keep squeezing harder until the ends slide into place.
*If you used PLA and are finding it hard to bend, briefly soaking the pieces in very hot tap water has been reported to make it easier. Take care not to scald yourself, the water does not have to be boiling, just hot from the tap. You only need to dip the ends that will lock over each other, not the parts you will squeeze. Use caution.
*At this stage, you may notice that the parts are loosely clamped on each other (this depends on plastic used and whether your printer over- or under-extrudes). Don't worry! When you place the leg hinges over a servo, the servo will spread it apart and they will lock together more tightly.
* Use a #6-32 1" screw and matching nut through the center hole of the two joined leg hinges to secure the hinges further. (This is necessary because the gigapod's hinges are under much more stress than in the megapod or hexapod.)
*Insert a 6202ZZ bearing into the socket on one side of the leg hinges. Pliers may be necessary to press them into place. Make sure you clean up any drips inside the recessed area for the skate bearing before attempting to insert the bearings. If you have a lot of trouble getting them in, you could heat up that part of the hinge in hot tap water to soften the plastic, or use a butane lighter (carefully! don't stop moving it) to soften the plastic before inserting the bearing.

====STEP 8: Attach Leg Hinges====
The leg hinges connect the hips to the knees. They only go on one way. If you made sure to align the bumps when assembling the leg hinges, this will result in correct orientation of all legs.
*First place the end that matches the servo horn on about halfway. Make sure the servo horn slides under the little pocket at the end of recessed area that accepts the horn.
*Very slightly bend the U shaped piece while pulling the skate bearing side over the hemispherical bump on the other side of the servo holding area. It's a little easier to do the knees (servos mounted to legs) first, followed by the hips (servos on base).
*NOTE: It will be a tight fit, but it should not be excessively difficult to push the hinge over the bearing.
*When completed, double check to make sure the servo horn went into the covered pocket at the end of its recessed area. This pocket keeps the horn from slipping out of the hinge during stressful operations.

====STEP 9: Enclose the electronics modules in their caddies====

Now things look pretty messy with all those wires hanging loose, let's clean it up by stowing the Arduino Nano, Bluetooth module and Servo Driver in their caddies. The caddies will keep them safe by making sure they can't short out against each other or touch screws, etc.
* '''STEP 9A: Insert Caddy Bars''' Insert the electronics caddy bars as shown in the diagrams below. Notice carefully how they are inserted. Don't insert them upside down, the little hump should be facing inward toward the caddy. You may need to slightly squeeze the forked section at the end to work it into the hole. Once inside, it may be difficult to remove because it will snap into place, so be sure you're putting it in the right way.
<gallery mode=packed heights=300>
File:Insert-Caddy-Bar-1.jpg|Insertion of the caddy bar into the Nano caddy. Notice the orientation, don't put the bar in upside down. The same technique is used for the Servo Driver Caddy.
</gallery>
* '''STEP 9B: Insert the Arduino Nano into its caddy''' Carefully insert the Nano as shown, making sure you don't pull out any of the wires. You may need to wiggle the caddy bar from side to side a bit so that components can slide past it during insertion. Notice that the end of the Nano that has the USB port must go in last.

<gallery mode=packed heights=250>
File:Insert-Nano-In-Caddy-1.jpg|Insert the Nano in the orientation shown.
File:Insert-Nano-In-Caddy-2.jpg|You may need to wiggle it a bit or press on the bar to work it into place.
File:Insert-Nano-In-Caddy-3.jpg|Note how the USB port is accessible through the top after full insertion.
</gallery>

* '''STEP 9C: Insert the Servo Driver into its caddy''' Carefully insert the Servo Driver as shown, making sure you don't pull out any of the wires. You may need to wiggle the caddy bar from side to side a bit so that components can slide past it during insertion. Notice that the end of the Servo controller with wires sticking out of it must go in last.

<gallery mode=packed heights=200>
File:Insert-ServoDriver-In-Caddy-1.jpg|Insert the Servo Driver in the orientation shown.
File:Insert-ServoDriver-In-Caddy-2.jpg|You may need to wiggle it a bit or press on the bar to work it into place.
File:Insert-ServoDriver-In-Caddy-3.jpg|Note that the end with the wires goes in last.
</gallery>

* '''STEP 9D: Insert the HC05 Bluetooth Module''' The diagrams here do not show the wires to make them easier to visualize. The HC05 Bluetooth module with a name beginning with "S" should be used for the robot. For example, the label will read something like "VORP S2944" (the number will differ). The one marked "M" will be used for the gamepad. Slide the HC05 into the side drawer as shown. When inserting, be careful not to pull out the wires, which will be a little tight. Work the wires into the little space provided so they stay clear of the robot's cap when it gets screwed on later.

<gallery mode=packed heights=250>
File:Insert-HC05-in-Caddy-1.jpg|Insert the HC05 into the side drawer of the Nano Caddy as shown.
File:Insert-HC05-in-Caddy-2.jpg|When fully inserted, the indicator light will still be visible through the small oval.
File:Insert-HC05-in-Caddy-3.jpg|The wires should be tucked into the little cavity near the pins of the HC05.
</gallery>

====STEP 10: Power up!====
Make sure the on/off switch is off, and the knob is turned to STOP. Attach the proper batteries (a 9v recharageable NIMH or LI-ON, and an 8.4 volt 4000 or more mAh NIMH with XT60 connector) and power on the robot using the on/off switch. You should hear a beep, a pause, then a second beep. The servos should all twitch into position. If the robot does not move at all, immediately turn the switch off and check your connections again. If some of the servos don't move then gently push them with power off to see if you can free them up. If they still won't move, try pushing them with power applied, but turn off the power within 30 seconds if they're locked up. If you can't get the servo to move it will need to be replaced.

[[File:Servo-Horn-Orientation.png|thumb|right|The servo horn should come straight out from the body at a 90 degree angle as shown here. Do not turn the servo shaft by hand until after it has moved under power!]]

====STEP 11: Insert Servo Horns====
The servo horns are all at random-ish angles right now. In this step we'll make them point in the right direction. The knee servos are not at 90 degrees when the knob is all the way counter clockwise, rather they are at a 30 degree standing angle.

We need to get them to 90 degrees so its easy to align the servo horn, and this is done by going into "Adjust Mode". Turn the knob very slightly clockwise until you hear a beep, then stop. After about one second you will see all the knee servos twitch. This is "adjust servo horn mode". All servos (knees and hips) are now at their halfway point, 90 degrees.

Now you need to take each single arm servo horn and carefully insert it on the shaft so that it is sticking straight out as shown in the figure. You will not always be able to make the horn come totally straight out. This is because there are only 22 little groves (splines) in each shaft, meaning you can in general only come within about 8 degrees of being at a perfect 90 degree angle. This amount of error is acceptable for now, just get it as close as you can. Later we'll use Trim Mode to make fine adjustments.

====STEP 12: Test Knee Positions====
Turn the knob fully counter clockwise (to STOP) and the robot will go into "stand still" mode. Place it on a level surface such as a table top. Do all of the legs touch the ground? If one or more legs don't touch the ground, you need to adjust the servo horn on the knee a little bit so it does touch. Gently pull off the servo bracket. Pull the servo horn off, and put it back on just a little bit moved so the leg would move closer to the ground. Put the servo bracket back on, and see how it looks. Do this until all legs are at least slightly touching the ground. Again, you can't necessarily be perfect due to the 8 degree increments the servo horns can be moved. But you should be able to be close enough that all legs at least slightly touch the ground.

====STEP 13: Insert Servo Screws====
Now that the legs are adjusted, you can insert the M3x12 screws (with M3 lock washers) into the servo horns to lock them in place. Note that you will NOT be using the screws that were in the little bag the servos came in, you'll be using the separate pack of screws, which are longer than the ones in the servo bag. Do not overtighten these screws, as you could possibly crack the servo brackets. Just turn the screws until you start to feel resistance, then turn a quarter turn more and stop.

====STEP 14: Test the Servos====
*'''STEP 14A: Using TST Mode'''
**To test whether every servo is working, put the robot on something that will lift its legs off the table top, but won't interfere with the legs (a small box or stack of books will work).
**Start with the knob on STOP, then slowly turn it clockwise. You'll hear one beep (Adjust mode), then a second beep (Test mode). Stop turning and the robot will go into "individual servo test mode". In this mode, every hip servo will move, one by one. When all the hips have moved, every leg will move, one by one. You should see every servo move, in order. If some don't move, check your connections. A common error is to plug a servo connector into the servo controller backwards (i.e. the brown wire is matched with the yellow pin instead of the black pin). If the servos do not move in a sensible order, that probably means you plugged a couple of servos into the wrong sockets in the electrical harness.

*'''STEP 14B: Test Using Demo Mode'''
**Ok, everything looks good, so time for a full test. Turn the knob to STOP, then put the robot on the floor, somewhere that has at least a few feet of room in each direction. (Caution: it's tempting to do this on a table top, but unless you have a huge table this is not advisable, Max will run pretty fast at some points during the demo.)
**Turn the knob to DEMO, and about one second later the robot will go through a series of movements to demonstrate some of the things it can do. The full demo only takes about 30 seconds, then repeats. Here, you are looking for the robot to, for example, be able to get back up off the floor after doing some of its dance moves.
**If the robot struggles to get off the floor, you may have a battery that is not fully charged, or there may be drips or other obstructions stopping some legs from moving fully. See the [[Vorpal Combat_Hexapod Troubleshooting Guide|Trouble Shooting Guide]] for more information about different kinds of issues that can occur. That guide was written for the small robot, but most of the things that can go wrong with the Gigapod are similar to the things that can go wrong with Vorpal The Hexapod.

====STEP 15: Store electronics and wires in the Base====
Carefully stow the caddies into the base, using any available convenient space. NOTE: Unlike the small hexapod and megapod, the Gigapod saves weight by not having any service access covers. This makes it look messier when the top is off, but the savings in weight was necessary to avoid servo stress.
<gallery mode=packed heights=250>
File:All-Electronics-Inserted-In-Base.jpg|Carefully stow the caddies into the base, being careful not to pull out any wires.
</gallery>

====STEP 16: Assemble the Cap====
*'''STEP 16A: Assemble the Four Cap Parts'''
**First assemble the three large pieces after removing the support coming out of the center. Be aware that there is a correct ordering to them, the two flaps that stick out near the bottom need to be opposite each other so the cap can slot into the Base and lock in place. Use #6-32 x 1 inch screws plus nylox locking nuts to secure the three parts together as shown. There are access holes around the rim that allow the hex key to reach the screws. Use nuts and locking washers to secure the screws.
**Secure the top of the cap onto the bottom three pieces using three 1 inch #6 socket screws and their associated nylox locking nuts.
<gallery mode=packed heights=250>
File:Cap-Exploded.JPG|Arrangement of the four Cap parts. Note that this diagram shows the support in place, this should actually be removed prior to assembly.
File:CAP-Assembly-order.JPG|Make sure the two flaps at the rim are opposite each other when ordering the three main parts.
</gallery>
* '''STEP 16B: Put Hook-and-loop on Cap''' Peel and stick on the "hook" side of a 1" piece of hook-and-loop on each flat circular decoration holder on the cap.
* '''STEP 16C: Decorate''' If desired, use a permanent marker to color the Vorpal "V" on top of the Cap. Oil markers work well. On light colors of plastic a black permanent marker will also work.
* '''STEP 16D: Put Cap on the Hexapod'''
**Screw the cap on the robot by lining up the tabs with the matching slots in the rim of the base. Turn the cap clockwise to lock it in place. IMPORTANT: Do not press down on the robot to insert the cap when the robot is under power standing on its legs! You can damage the leg motors by doing this. It is best to turn the robot off, and either support the bottom of the Base with one hand and press the Cap on with the other, or set the Base down on the table top or floor with legs out to the sides so they don't take pressure.
**If the cap is too loose and swivels while the robot moves, this can be fixed by putting a bit of tape on the cap's flaps to make them a little thicker. The tightness of the cap depends a lot on printer settings, over- or under-extrusion, etc.

====STEP 17: Warning Label====
There are self-stick choking hazard warning labels and also several pinch point warning labels in the hexapod parts bag. Peel the backing off one choking hazard lable and place it on the bottom of the robot, near the center. Retain the second label for the gamepad. The pinch point warnings should be placed around the body of the robot, above the legs, in visible positions. Depending on what kind of plastic you're using, they might or might not stick well. If they don't stick, use glue (such as cyanoacrilate "super glue" or even hot glue) to secure them. The warning labels are not optional! They are necessary for safety. The motors are powerful and can snap your fingers like a twig, or cause severe pinch injuries, sprains, or bruises.

==== Step 18: Trimming the Servos ====
When you assembled the servo horns onto the servos, you probably were not able to get them all to come out exactly at a 90 degree angle. That's not your fault: the servo horns only have 22 possible positions in which they can be installed, so at best you can come within plus or minus 8 degrees of perfection.

Now that you have the gamepad working, you can make fine adjustments to the servo positions using "Trim Mode". In this special gamepad mode, you can adjust all the servos to within a fraction of a degree. These adjustments are saved in the robot's EEPROM, which is memory on the Nano that retains data even when powered off. So, you only need to trim once.

Complete instructions on how to use trim mode are in the wiki page: [[Vorpal The Hexapod Trim Mode Guide]]. That guide was written for the smaller robot, but the instructions are identical for the Gigapod.

NOTE: although this step is optional, it is strongly recommended because your robot will walk straighter and all the servos will share equally in lifting the robot's weight, which will make them last longer.

====Step 19: Assembling Eye Decorations====
Peel and stick a piece of "loop" from the supplied hook and loop fasteners on the back of the two eye pieces. This allows you to stick the eyes on the Cap's matching "hook" areas.

NOTE: There are extra hook and loop circles included in your kit. You can create your own attachments, nameplates, etc. using these.

==Electrical Connections: Robot==

===NOTES ON JUMPER WIRES===

====Wire Lengths====
There are two different lengths of female-female Dupont jumper wires used to make most connections. The longer ones (20cm) are only used for the Hexapod's accessory port connections. The shorter ones are used for all the connections on the Gamepad and all the connections on the Hexapod between the Arduino Nano, Servo controller and Bluetooth module.

====Wire Color Conventions====

Please follow these conventions when selecting wire colors:
* For +5V, Vin, and similar positive voltage connections, use either RED or ORANGE.
* For GND and other negative electrical connections, use BLACK or BROWN.
* For the connectors that sit at the mouth of the accessory port (used for optional sensors) colors are suggested below in the instructions. By following these suggestions you will make your life easier when connecting sensors!
* For all other connections, you can use any color you want, it's arbitrary.

====If Jumper Wires Are Too Loose====
Sometimes you will find a wire whose connector does not grip the pin well enough. It might fall off very easily or just by gravity alone. If that happens, you have a few options:
* There are extra wires in your kit. If you find a wire that's too loose, just use a different wire.
* Using the hex key, you can put the jumper housing on a flat surface then press on the metal showing through the plastic connector, which will tighten up the jumper wire's grip. Don't go too overboard on pressing though or you might make it too hard to insert.
* Alternatively, you could use electrical tape after inserting all the wires on a module (such as the Nano) to effectively attach together all the little plastic female connector housings. In that way, the connectors that do grip will help hold in the ones that are too loose. Some people also like using hot glue for this purpose. (Personally, I don't like using hot glue, as it makes it harder to change connections if you hooked something up incorrectly.)

===NANO PIN CONNECTIONS===
[[File:Megapod-Nano-Connections-v1.JPG|thumb|600px|right|Diagram of Nano connections for the Hexapod. Jumpers marked AP are routed to the Accessory Port for use with add-ons like sensors. Click for larger image.]]
* ''Digital IO Pins:''
** D0, D1 are reserved because they are used for uploading programs to the robot, so nothing will be connected there.
** D2, D3 No connection.
** D4 Buzzer Signal (white wire)
** D5 through D13 No connection. These pins are reserved for future expansion.

* ''Analog Pins:''
** A0 Potentiometer signal (white wire)
** A1 Potentiometer Power (red wire)
** A2 Potentiometer Ground (black wire)
** A3 No connection.
** A4 Servo Controller SDA
** A5 Servo Controller SCL
** A6, A7 No connection.

* ''Power Pins:''
** +5V pin on Nano connects to any of the +5V RED wires coming from the BEC on the power distribution harness.
** GND pin on Nano connects to any of the GND BLACK wires coming from the BEC on the power distribution harness.

===Servo Driver Power Pins===
* Port 0 RED pin on the Servo Driver connects to any of the +5V RED wires coming from the BEC on the power distribution harness.
* Port 0 BLACK GND pin on the Servo Driver connects to any of the GND BLACK wires coming from the BEC on the power distribution harness.

=== Bluetooth Module Power ===
* +5V on HC05 connects to any RED Dupont connector coming off the BEC.
* GND on HC05 connects to any BLACK Dupont connector coming off the BEC.

=== Buzzer Power ===
* Plug the buzzer into the unused port 15 on the servo driver, making sure the red and black wires on the buzzer power match the red and black rows of pins on the servo driver.

=== Servo Driver ===
[[File:Megapod-ServoDriverConnections.jpg|thumb|600px|right|Diagram of Servo Controller pins you will use in this project. Each servo motor has a 3 wire connector that should be plugged into the corresponding servo number extension connector in the power distribution harness. The white wires coming out of the harness in groups of four should be connected to the yellow line or ports, matching the number ranges to port numbers. Note that the black and red rows of pins are not used, power is provided to the servos through the power distribution harness. Click for larger image.]]
* Connect the 12 servos to power distribution harness connectors marked with port numbers corresponding to the servo marking (0 to 11). Make sure the signal wire (yellow) is oriented correctly and matches the yellow plastic header pin.
* Connect the groups of four white wires which are marked with servo port numbers to the Servo Driver yellow pins, matching the Servo Driver pin number to the port numbers written on the 4-pin Dupont connectors coming out of the power distribution harness.
* Connect one of the +5V RED regulated BEC outputs to the RED port 0 pin of the Servo Driver. Connect one of the GND black pins coming out of the BEC to the BLACK port 0 GND pin on the Servo Driver.
* On one short side of the Servo Controller you will find a VCC and V+ pin right next to each other. Use a shunt (small black connector that goes over two pins) to connect those together if one is not already installed. Without this shunt the Servo Driver will not work.
* SDA and SCL go to A4 and A5 on the Nano, respectively.



== Building the Gamepad ==
The gamepad for Gidget the Gigapod is identical to the Gamepad for Vorpal The Hexapod (and also Max the Megapod).

Please see instructions on [[Vorpal_The_Hexapod_Building_Instructions#Building_the_Gamepadd|the Vorpal Hexapod Gamepad Assembly instructions]].

{{Gigapod Quick Links}}

File:Gigapod-Leg-Assembly-Bearing-Peg.PNG

2021-03-19T15:08:47Z

Vorpalwiki:

Gidget The Gigapod Assembly Instructions

2021-03-19T15:08:23Z

Vorpalwiki: /* STEP 4: Build the Legs */

==LIMITED AVAILABILITY==

Our kits for this project are special order at this time. Allow two weeks for us to ship. Because the parts are relatively heavy, shipping to areas outside the USA is expensive. For makers outside the USA, you may want to try to acquire the parts locally. But beware of subsitutions! Walking robots have very precise requirements and any substitutions of parts may cause the project not to function as expected.

Warning: The 3D printed parts for this project consume a lot of plastic and the print (on our own printers) is over 200 hours for all the parts. (It's not 200 hours straight, it's multiple print jobs each running 6 to 16 hours.) You shouldn't attempt this unless you're prepared for long print times and your printer is well tuned to make failures rare.

NEW: our Megapod and Gigapod kits are now standard with the "Quickbuild" electrical system. This cuts over an hour off the build time.

==Gidget The Gigapod Construction==
[[File:Giga-Mega-Hexa-Stacked.jpg|right|thumb|Gigapod, Megapod, Hexapod relative sizes]]
Gidget The Gigapod is a very large, 3d printed, hexapod robot. This page gives complete instructions for building this project. If you are new to 3d printing, you probably don't want to start with this one, though. Please consider our smaller [[Vorpal The Hexapod]] project instead.
==BILL OF MATERIALS (BOM) FOR GIDGET THE GIGAPOD==
===Notes on Sourcing Parts Yourself===
* These instructions assume you have purchased a kit from us (kits are currently a special order item). If you are sourcing your own parts, please be aware of the following additional information:
**If you are sourcing your own parts, you need to build the power distribution connector assembly. This is identical to the power distribution system for [[Max The Megapod]]. For diagrams see [[Max The Megapod Battery/Switch Construction]] except that it uses an XT60 connector instead of Tamaya for the large battery, and it uses a 30 amp fuse instead of a 15 amp fuse. This will take about 2 hours of soldering and labelling work.
**Also see important information on that page if you are sourcing your own BEC.
**If you are sourcing your own Bluetooth modules, please be aware that you will need to configure them to auto-pair and to have a UART speed of 38400 BAUD. Every module brand's firmware is a bit different so it's not possible for us to give you universal instructions on how to program them. We assume that if you source your own parts you are familiar with how to configure Bluetooth modules using AT-commands. (You can find tutorials online or videos on youtube, but like we said, different modules may not exactly match instructions you will find so be prepared to fiddle around a bit). Please do not ask our customer support for help on this topic. We sell pre-configured modules that auto-pair on boot for a very reasonable price.
**If you are sourcing your own Arduino Nano modules, you will need to flash the robot and gamepad code on them. You can find the latest stable release of code at the [https://tinyurl.com/VORPALFILES Vorpal Hexapod Public Dropbox folder]. The source code tree is posted in our github repository, but the top of that tree may not be stable. Note: there is currently no difference in software between the large and small versions of the hexapod other than a single #define called HEXSIZE. For the gigapod, this should be set to 2.
* Please be very careful about substitutions. You might think you can substitute cheaper parts for the ones specified here. Don't bet on it. Walking robots are extremely difficult to design, and we've chosen each part for a good reason. For example, if you try to substitute cheaper servos you are very likely to find that they don't provide enough torque for the robot to stand up, or they burn out within minutes due to being over-stressed. If you substitute a different battery voltage, you'll either fry the servos or they won't have enough torque. It took 1,000 hours of work to design the smaller hexapod on which this one is based, then another 500 hours of redesign, testing, and tuning to get the big version working well. If you want to try substitutions, okay, but please don't expect it to work without many hours of adjustments and testing.
* Full kits of parts as well as individual parts will be available on [http://store.vorpalrobotics.com The Vorpal Robotics Store]. If you are new to Arduino and robotics we strongly recommend you purchase a kit instead of trying to self-source parts (and truthfully, if you're not experienced with this kind of project you really should build the smaller [[Vorpal The Hexapod]] kit first. NOTE: kits will not be available until approximately Fall 2020 due to delays in getting parts from China due to the virus pandemic.
* Our kits cut 4 to 5 hours off the build time, bringing it to typically 2 to 3 or so hours. The kits have all soldering done, programs are already loaded on the Nanos, Bluetooth modules are properly configured, and you know you have all the right parts to work together. About half the people who self-source parts end up buying parts that are incorrect or are so cheap that they will quickly fail (and they end up spending more money and far more time than if they had simply bought a kit to start with!)

=== ROBOT BOM ===
[[File:Choking-Hazard-Image.jpg|right|350px]]
[[File:PinchPoint-Warning.JPG|right|350px]]

* ''Electronics:''
** Passive Piezo Buzzer module and 3 wire cable (see image) [[File:Passive-Piezo-Buzzer-Module.jpg|right|thumb|Passive Piezo Buzzer Module]]
** Arduino Nano, 5V, 16 mHz, ATMEGA328 or similar (marked RM in our kit to indicate it is pre-loaded with Gigapod robot software)
** Rotary potentiometer, 10K Ohms, 6mm shaft diameter, with 3 wires pre-soldered. Also, matching dial cap and nut. If you are self-sourcing see our instructions: [[Max The Megapod Battery/Switch Construction]]
** 1 x HC05 BlueTooth Module with F-F jumper wires for making connections (our kit electronics are pre-wired for you)
** 1 x Servo Controller module (Adafruit 16-channel 12-bit I2C PWM/Servo driver or Adafruit clone) with F-F jumper wires for making connections, plus 1 two-pin shunt tying V+ to VCC
** 12 x DS5160 SSG 180 degree, 60 kg-cm torque servo motors with metal servo horns. Be sure you order the 180 degree version, these servos also come in a 270 degree version.
** 1 x Power distribution wiring harness with DPST on/off switch, Fuse, XT60 battery connector, 3A 5V BEC, and servo extension connectors. If you are self-sourcing see our wiring instructions: [[Max The Megapod Battery/Switch Construction|Circuit Diagrams]]. (The battery/switch circuit for the Gigapod is identical to that of the Megapod except it uses an XT60 connector for the large battery and it uses a 30 amp fuse instead of a 15 amp fuse.)
* ''3D Printed Parts:''
** 6 Robot Base Parts and bottom plate to hold the parts together.
** 4 Cap parts which screw together to form the cap of the robot.
** 6 x Legs
** 6 x Feet that will be assembled with wheels.
** 6 x TPU Boots to provide better traction. These should be printed in TPU or other flexible plastics so they absorb some impact during walking.
** 12 x Servo Stops. These parts hold the servos in their compartments both in the base and the legs.
** 12 x Servo Bearing Pegs. These insert into the servo compartments and provide a secure place for the bearings to sit.
** 12 x Leg Hinge halves with Leg Hinge Rings. The rings stop layer separation issues under stress.
** 1 x Electronics Caddy to hold Arduino Nano
** 1 x Electronics Caddy to hold the Servo Driver
** 2 x Eye/glasses Decoration
** 8 x 1 inch diameter hook-and-loop self stick circles to attach of eyes and other decorations
* ''Screws and Fasteners''
** 12 x Nylon bolts 1/4-20 x 2" long. These can be partially threaded. Note that it is important for these to be made of nylon for weight savings. These are used to secure servos in place using the servo stopper part.
** 12 x M3x20mm button head screws (with matching flat washers and external tooth washers) to secure servo arms to servo through the screw hole in the hinge.
** 6 x #6-32 x 1.75" long cap screws plus nuts to attach boots onto the end of the leg
** 6 x #6-32 x 1" long cap screws plus nuts to provide axles for the boot wheels.
** 6 x 1/4-20 x 1.25" long cap screw plus nylox locking nuts for holding the BASE parts together
** 6 x 1/4-20 x 3/4" long cap screw plus nylox locking nuts for holding the BOTTOM onto the BASE assembly
** 6 x #6-32 cap screws plus nylox locking nuts for holding the CAP and CAP TOPPER parts together
** 6 x #6-32 cap screws plus nylox locking nuts for holding the LEG HINGES together. Note that the smaller versions of the robot depend on a snap-together system to hold the hinges together, but the larger Gigapod requires a screw through the center hole to ensure the hinges remain together.
** If you are self-sourcing and building your own electrical system, you will also need 10 x #6-32 x 1/2" screws to hold the power distribution plastic covers together. If you buy our kit, these are already installed on the wiring harness.
* ''Miscellaneous Mechanical Parts:''
** 12 x 6202ZZ Double Metal Seal Bearings 15x35x11mm for leg hinges
** 12 x 608zz Skate Bearings with nylon coated wheel, dimensions: 27.5mm diameter wheel, 8mm inner diameter on bearing, 8mm wide.
* ''Tools Required (Not included in kit)''
** Hex drivers for the various sized bolts and screws.
** Needle nose pliers are useful for holding the nuts while assembling BASE and CAP parts.
** 3 x Pinch Point Stickers. Place these around the robot Base to warn onlookers not to touch the robot. Some kinds of plastic may not stick well to the adhesive, you may need to secure with hot glue or superglue or similar.
* ''Batteries and Chargers''
** The Gigapod uses a 4200 mAH (a little more is okay but don't go too high due to weight considerations) 7-cell NIMH battery (8.4 Volts) with male XT60 connector and compatible charger, such as: [https://www.batteryspace.com/nimhbatterypack84v4200mahhumpbatterypacksforrctraxxasandlosietc.aspx BatterySpace 42000 mAH 8.4 V NIMH] (We use that one for demos with the 14 gauge wire option, and we solder on an XT60 male connector in-house. You get about 30 minutes of run time with this battery.)
**The Gigapod also requires one 9v battery, we recommend NIMH or LI-ON rechargeable with compatible charger.
** The gamepad takes any kind of standard 9v rectangular batter, either rechargeable or disposable work fine. These are commonly available from many sources. We recommend rechargeable NIMH or LI-ON 9v batteries with compatible charger.
** Note that we do not provide batteries or chargers with our kits due to licenses required to ship batteries.
NOTE ON BATTERY SAFETY: Never leave batteries in the Gigapod or gamepad after use. If either one gets turned on accidentally, overdraining the battery may damage or destroy it. As soon as the Gigapod has trouble moving or sags under its own weight, immediately stop and replace with fresh batteries.

=== GAMEPAD BOM AND ASSEMBLY ===
The gamepad for Gidget the Gigapod is identical to the gamepad for Vorpal The Hexapod. See instructions for the gamepad here: [[Vorpal_The_Hexapod_Building_Instructions#Building_the_Gamepadd|Vorpal The Hexapod Gamepad Assembly instructions]]

==Printing the Plastic Parts==

This section assumes you have basic familiarity with 3D printing and 3D printing terminology. If not, you might want to reference online materials such as youtube videos or information from your 3D printer manufacturer before attempting this project.

Please note: it takes over 200 hours to print this project. This is not a project for the faint of heart, or for people who are not experienced in 3d printing and have not tuned and maintained their printers. If you are a beginner at 3d printing, we strongly recommend that you start with our smaller [[Vorpal the Hexapod]] project. It's a 16 hour print, requires a lot less bridging, and less than a tenth as much practice.

===OBTAINING THE STL FILES===
We have posted the STL files to [http://www.thingiverse.com Thingiverse]. Search for "Gidget the Gigapod" and they should pop right up.

Please help us by rating the Gidget the Gigapod project (or clicking on the LIKE button, COLLECT button, etc.)!

Please post your builds to places like Thingiverse, pictures to FaceBook, Instagram, etc., and videos of your robot to YouTube! This will help us grow and continue having the resources creating cool new projects for our community.

===MINIMUM PRINTER REQUIREMENTS===
*The bed size should be at least 275mm cube (about 11 inches cube). The largest parts are the six Base and the 3 Cap parts in the x and y directions, and in the Z direction the Leg is largest, so these are the limiting factor on bed size.
* For almost all parts, we recommend PLA PRO plastic (or similiar enhanced PLA plastics that may go under other names like PLA+). These are large parts and so PLA is preferred due it being resistant to warping.
* The boots part is best made of TPU plastic, or similar flexible plastics, to reduce the impact of walking on floors.
===AMOUNT OF PLASTIC FILAMENT===
* About 6 to 7 kg of PLA plastic are needed to print the entire robot and gamepad, assuming no print failures.
* About 200 grams of TPU (or similar flexible plastic) are needed to print the wheels. It is possible to print the wheels out of harder plastics but in that case they might scratch wooden floors, so we suggest TPU or some other flexible, soft plastic.
* The amount of plastic used does depend on plastic type and exact print settings though, so your mileage may vary.

===RECOMMENDED PLASTICS===
*ABS, PETG, and PLA all work well. However, because there are some very large parts, ABS may cause you some warping issues if you don't have a heated bed, enclosure, and a printer tuned well for large parts. PLA is generally easier and has fewer issues with corners peeling off the print bed.
*We use eSun PLA PRO for this project and for us it works very well. PLA PRO is a little more flexible and stronger than typical PLA. We have no problems with warping even on the largest parts.
*For the boots, we used Sainsmart TPU and it works very well. Other flexible plastics would probably also be fine.
*This project requires less flexibility than the smaller Vorpal The Hexapod project, so ABS is not at all required for this project.
===PRINTING TIPS===
This project has been finely tuned to make it easy to 3D print. No additional supports are required for any of the parts (there is a support built into the models for the CAP parts and there are tiny supports built into the hinge parts). In some cases you may want to use brims or rafts to help parts adhere to the print surface. These are large, long prints so using a brim for a little added safety is probably prudent.

There is some significant bridging with some spans up to 45mm (1.8"). It is important to tune your printer and make sure it can handle the bridging before attempting the large parts. A little sagging is ok and a drip or two can be easily removed, but you need decent ability to bridge. There are bridge testing and calibration models posted on sites like Thingiverse that may help you tune your printer before trying the big parts. There are numerous "3d printing tips" type postings on the internet that make suggestions for how to tune for features like bridging.

====PRINT SETTINGS====
We print using the following settings on a Lulzbot TAZ 6 with 0.5mm nozzle:
* 0.4 layer thickness (or whatever layer thickness is the largest that will work on your printer)
* 2mm walls (i.e. four perimeters for a 0.5mm nozzle)
* 1.6 mm top and bottom (i.e. four layers at 0.4mm layer height)
* 25% infill
* You can print with thinner layers if your printer does not support 0.4mm layers or if you want a more refined look, it will just take longer. If you have a large nozzle (0.8mm or more) you should be able to go with bigger layers and save a lot of print time. Please report your findings to us at support@vorpalrobotics.com so we can advise future Makers of this project.

====POST PRINT====
Other than removing brims/rafts, cap and hinge built in supports, and the occasional drip, there is not any special post-processing required after printing. Some of the big bridges might seem a little saggy but generally speaking there's enough tolerance that this won't cause an issue. The biggest bridges are mostly hidden inside the robot so they won't affect cosmetics.

====PRO TIPS====
*Do routine maintenance on your printer before printing the big parts: lubricate rods and lead screws, check bed leveling, replace nozzle if worn, do a calibration print, clean your print surface, etc. A few minutes of preparation will help you nail these prints and make a project you can be very proud of!
*Print the large parts (Base, Cap) at the ''start'' of new spools. The last thing you want is to run out of filament 95% of the way through a big part.
*Print the smallest parts (servo stops, hinge rings, Leg pegs, gamepad drawer) near the end of a spool.
*If you have a large format printer, it is tempting to kick off several large parts at once and let it run overnight. We would recommend against that--the chances of killing an entire spool of filament due to an overnight power hit or other failure is just not worth it. Take your time, do the big parts one by one. One or two during the day, one overnight. It will all get done soon enough. An extra few days won't matter in the long run.

== Building the Robot ==

You will need the following tools:
*Included in the kit:
** 2mm hex key. A 5/64 inch hex key will also work. This is in the Gigapod Parts bag.
** 7/64 hex key at least 6" long (150mm). It needs to be long enough to reach screws through access holes in the Base and Cap. This is in the Gigapod Parts Bag.
*Not included in the kit:
** Optional: A marker that can write on dark plastic and still be seen, such as Sharpie Metallic or Sharpie Oil markers (white and yellow work great on dark colored plastic, black or blue work well on light colored plastic). This can be used to make raised lettering on the robot and gamepad more visible.
** Optional: Needle nose pliers can be helpful for holding nuts in place while tightening screws.
** Optional: Slip-joint pliers can be helpful for forcing the skate bearings into their press-fit locations on the Leg Hinges

===IMPORTANT WARNING: POWERFUL SERVOS MAY INJURE YOU===
The motors on Gidget the Gigapod are very powerful compared to the smaller Vorpal the Hexapod (or even Max the Megapod) projects. It is possible for the leg motions to pinch fingers or even possibly break fingers or cause other injuries, possibly severe. When powering on the Gigapod you must keep fingers clear of places where the legs/hips can come together. You should mount the included "Pinch Point" stickers around the Base of the robot to warn others. During public demonstrations, keep adults and especially children away from the robot when it's operating. Little kids will definitely try to touch the robot and could be injured, keep them at a safe distance. In case of electrical issues the legs may move unexpectedly. Turning the power off will release the motors. Never carry the Gigapod when it's powered on. For safety, I disconnect the battery when transporting, just to prevent the possibility that the power switch will get hit accidentally.

If the robot is moving in an out of control manner, use a pencil, book, or rod to hit the power switch from a safe distance. The switch is large and easy to turn off.

You must at all times take standard precautions that are typical with large robotic projects.

If you are building your own electrical system please do not skimp by skipping adding the fuse to the circuit. This project may draw significant amperage and fuse protection is required.

===Step by Step Instructions===
PLEASE NOTE: These instructions are currently in draft state, and I've used diagrams from Max the Megapod here temporarily. The construction is very similar, although you will note some discrepancies such as the BASE for the Megapod comes in 3 parts while in the Gigapod it comes in 6 parts. Still, the construction is analogous. I'll be replacing diagrams for the parts that are not the same first.

====STEP 1: Build the BASE====
* STEP 1A: Take the six outer parts of the base (STL files: Base-1, Base-2, ... Base-6) and arrange them to form the "bowl" of the base. Make sure the servo numbers are in the right order as you move clockwise around the six parts! It's possible to assemble them in the wrong order if you don't check.
* STEP 1B: There are matching screw holes positioned on little rectangular outcroppings on the inside of the top ring, these require screws to bind the three parts together. Use six 1/4-20 by 1.25 inch socket head screws, toothed lock washers, and nuts to secure them. There is an access hole in the rim of the robot to allow the hex key to turn the screw. You may need to hold the nut in place using needle-nose pliers. Repeat for all six sections.
<gallery mode=packed heights=250>
File:Base-Exploded-View.JPG|Line up the six main pieces of the base, ensuring the servo numbers are in order.
File:Access-Hole-In-Base.jpg|Small access holes are strategically placed around the base so the hex key can turn the screws to secure the three base pieces.
File:Securing-Base-Sections.jpg|Use the access hole in the Base parts to secure screws that bind the three base parts together.
File:Megapod-Foam-Squares.jpg|Peel the backing off the foam squares that came with the kit and attach them to the bottom of the base. Stack them on top of each other.
</gallery>
* STEP 1C: Take the Base Bottom part and place it inside the base. There is a nub in one place that will only allow it to be inserted in one orientation. Use six 1/4-20 by 3/4 inch screws with nuts and lock washers in the outer ring of holes in the bottom to secure it to the base. The head of the screw should be on the outside of the robot and nuts should secure the screws on the inside.
* STEP 1D: Take the foam squares that came in your kit and stick them on the bottom of the robot, reasonably centered. These foam pads will reduce the shock and stress on the robot when it goes down to the floor on certain dance moves. Without these pads, the robot leg servos and body structure may undergo too much stress.

====STEP 2: Install the electrical system in the base====
* STEP 2A: Take the potentiometer and remove its dial cap, then unscrew the nut and set these items aside for now (don't lose them). Push the potentiometer shaft from the inside of the chassis into the hole that is surrounded by the markings "STOP", "TST", etc. The wires coming out of the potentiometer should be pointing down. The little metal nub sticking out of the potentiometer should match with a tiny rectangular hole that is near the marking "TST". Put the retaining nut on the potentiometer, hand tighten first and then give it just another half turn or so with pliers if desired. Turn the knob all the way counter-clockwise, then insert the knob so it points to the letter "O" in the word "STOP".
* STEP 2B: Take the large DPST on/off switch (which is attached to the battery holder and power distribution assembly) and thread the switch wires from the inside through the gap at the bottom of the switch hole (see picture). Carefully push the wires one by one through the slot below the switch hole. Once all the wires are through, push the switch into the switch hole. It should be oriented with the "1" to the right. Press carefully into the hole, it should snap firmly in place.
** If the fit is too tight to get the switch in place, lightly sanding or filing the hole to make it a tiny bit larger should work.
<gallery mode=packed heights=200>
File:Switch-Insert-1.jpg|Thread the switch and its wires through the Base, there is an opening under the switch hole.
File:Switch-Insert-2.jpg|Bring the wires up through the small gap below the switch hole. Be careful with the large wires, they require some pressure or some flexing of the plastic to get through.
File:Switch-Insert-3.jpg|All the wires are now coming through the switch hole.
File:Switch-Insert-4.jpg|Press the switch into the hole, it should snap into place. The "1" should be to the right.
</gallery>

====STEP 3: Insert servos in the chassis====
* Next, insert the servo into the chassis as shown in the diagrams. As you insert the servo into the chassis, slowly press it straight into place until it fully seats. Use a servo stopper and one 1/4-20 by 2 inch nylon hex bolts to secure the servos in place. The nylon bolts should retain in the holes even though there are no threads and no nut used. If you find them working themselves loose, you could wrap a bit of electrical tape around the end of the screw to make the fit tighter.
<gallery mode=packed heights=250>
File:Servo-in-Base-2.jpg|Insert each servo with the wire coming out away from the robot as shown here. Press in completely.
File:Servo-in-Base-3.jpg|Insert a servo stopper (shown in red) and secure with nylong bolt. Thread the wire into the body of the robot through the hole as shown.
</gallery>

====STEP 4: Build the Legs====
=====STEP 4A: Assemble Boot and Wheel=====

<gallery mode=packed heights=200>
File:Gigapod-Leg-Assembly-Wheel-Boot.PNG|Parts for Boot and Wheel
File:Servo-Leg-Inserted-v2.png|Push until fully seated
</gallery>

=====STEP 4B: Insert Servos in Legs=====
The technique is very similar to inserting the servo into the chassis.
*Insert the servo straight into the leg socket so that the wire is coming out of the servo facing away from the plastic leg and the face of the servo with the shaft and servo horn goes into the open faced side of the leg, as shown in the diagram.
*Secure the servo in place with a servo stopper and one 2 inch nylong bolt as you did with the hip servos in the base.
*The servos in the legs are called the "knee" servos. Each leg has a higher number on it, this is the knee number, they run from 6 to 11. Again, write this number on the black connector at the end of the servo wire. PRO TIP: For 6 and 9, underline the number so you don't read them upside down!
*Cut a 12 inch length of braided wire covering. Seal the threads at the end using a lighter for a couple seconds to melt them. Be careful not to set on fire. Thread the knee servo wires through the braided wire covering. This will help protect the servo wires, and also makes the robot look better. You may need to use electrical tape to secure the end of the braided covering to one end of the servo wire.
<gallery mode=packed heights=200>
File:Servo-Insert-Leg-v2.png|Insert Servos in Legs
File:Servo-Leg-Inserted-v2.png|Push until fully seated
File:Servo-Stopper-In-Leg.jpg|Use the servo stopper and two screws to lock the servo in place
</gallery>

*Thread each leg servo wire (with braided covering) into the bottom wire guide slot on the chassis. Each leg servo should be matched with a hip servo plus 6. The legs are marked with the hip number near the top and the knee number below that. For example, the leg marked 6 should be threaded through the wire guide on hip servo 0, leg 7 goes with hip 1, leg 8 goes with hip 2, etc. Add 6 to the hip number to get the leg number.

====STEP 5: Plug in the Servos====
Thread the servo wires into the chassis using the routing holes, as you did with the hip servos. The power distribution harness has marked servo extension sockets for each servo. Each hip servo is marked on the BASE showing its number. the knee servo for each hip is numbered six higher than its corresponding hip. For example, hip servo number 3 will be attached to knee servo number 9, because 3+6=9.

When plugging the servos in, make sure you match the light yellow servo wire to the white servo extension wire, and the dark brown servo wire should match with the black servo extension wire.

====STEP 6: Make Robot Electrical Connections====

If you are self-sourcing, use the diagram below in the electrical section to make the rest of the robot's electrical connections. You'll be using the Robot Arduino Nano (marked "R"), the Servo Driver, Bluetooth Module marked "S", the buzzer, and a bunch of jumper wires. Make sure you use the longer jumper wires for the SDA and SCL connections between the Nano and the Servo Driver.
If you bought a kit from us, all connections are already made, other than plugging the servos into the marked servo extension connectors.

====STEP 7: Assemble the leg hinges====
[[File:Servo-Bracket-Alignment-v1.png|thumb|350px|right|Align the leg hinges as shown here. The bumps (see arrows) should both be near each other when properly aligned. Hold one in each hand with the ends of the U shape between thumb and forefinger.]]
Each leg hinge is composed of two identical U-shaped parts. Take one in each hand and align the two so that the bump (shown in the diagram at the right) are both near each other. Turn one 90 degrees with respect to the other.
*Gently squeeze each piece between thumb and forefinger, which causes the little jaws in the center to open up slightly. Work the two halves together. Keep squeezing harder until the ends slide into place.
*If you used PLA and are finding it hard to bend, briefly soaking the pieces in very hot tap water has been reported to make it easier. Take care not to scald yourself, the water does not have to be boiling, just hot from the tap. You only need to dip the ends that will lock over each other, not the parts you will squeeze. Use caution.
*At this stage, you may notice that the parts are loosely clamped on each other (this depends on plastic used and whether your printer over- or under-extrudes). Don't worry! When you place the leg hinges over a servo, the servo will spread it apart and they will lock together more tightly.
* Use a #6-32 1" screw and matching nut through the center hole of the two joined leg hinges to secure the hinges further. (This is necessary because the gigapod's hinges are under much more stress than in the megapod or hexapod.)
*Insert a 6202ZZ bearing into the socket on one side of the leg hinges. Pliers may be necessary to press them into place. Make sure you clean up any drips inside the recessed area for the skate bearing before attempting to insert the bearings. If you have a lot of trouble getting them in, you could heat up that part of the hinge in hot tap water to soften the plastic, or use a butane lighter (carefully! don't stop moving it) to soften the plastic before inserting the bearing.

====STEP 8: Attach Leg Hinges====
The leg hinges connect the hips to the knees. They only go on one way. If you made sure to align the bumps when assembling the leg hinges, this will result in correct orientation of all legs.
*First place the end that matches the servo horn on about halfway. Make sure the servo horn slides under the little pocket at the end of recessed area that accepts the horn.
*Very slightly bend the U shaped piece while pulling the skate bearing side over the hemispherical bump on the other side of the servo holding area. It's a little easier to do the knees (servos mounted to legs) first, followed by the hips (servos on base).
*NOTE: It will be a tight fit, but it should not be excessively difficult to push the hinge over the bearing.
*When completed, double check to make sure the servo horn went into the covered pocket at the end of its recessed area. This pocket keeps the horn from slipping out of the hinge during stressful operations.

====STEP 9: Enclose the electronics modules in their caddies====

Now things look pretty messy with all those wires hanging loose, let's clean it up by stowing the Arduino Nano, Bluetooth module and Servo Driver in their caddies. The caddies will keep them safe by making sure they can't short out against each other or touch screws, etc.
* '''STEP 9A: Insert Caddy Bars''' Insert the electronics caddy bars as shown in the diagrams below. Notice carefully how they are inserted. Don't insert them upside down, the little hump should be facing inward toward the caddy. You may need to slightly squeeze the forked section at the end to work it into the hole. Once inside, it may be difficult to remove because it will snap into place, so be sure you're putting it in the right way.
<gallery mode=packed heights=300>
File:Insert-Caddy-Bar-1.jpg|Insertion of the caddy bar into the Nano caddy. Notice the orientation, don't put the bar in upside down. The same technique is used for the Servo Driver Caddy.
</gallery>
* '''STEP 9B: Insert the Arduino Nano into its caddy''' Carefully insert the Nano as shown, making sure you don't pull out any of the wires. You may need to wiggle the caddy bar from side to side a bit so that components can slide past it during insertion. Notice that the end of the Nano that has the USB port must go in last.

<gallery mode=packed heights=250>
File:Insert-Nano-In-Caddy-1.jpg|Insert the Nano in the orientation shown.
File:Insert-Nano-In-Caddy-2.jpg|You may need to wiggle it a bit or press on the bar to work it into place.
File:Insert-Nano-In-Caddy-3.jpg|Note how the USB port is accessible through the top after full insertion.
</gallery>

* '''STEP 9C: Insert the Servo Driver into its caddy''' Carefully insert the Servo Driver as shown, making sure you don't pull out any of the wires. You may need to wiggle the caddy bar from side to side a bit so that components can slide past it during insertion. Notice that the end of the Servo controller with wires sticking out of it must go in last.

<gallery mode=packed heights=200>
File:Insert-ServoDriver-In-Caddy-1.jpg|Insert the Servo Driver in the orientation shown.
File:Insert-ServoDriver-In-Caddy-2.jpg|You may need to wiggle it a bit or press on the bar to work it into place.
File:Insert-ServoDriver-In-Caddy-3.jpg|Note that the end with the wires goes in last.
</gallery>

* '''STEP 9D: Insert the HC05 Bluetooth Module''' The diagrams here do not show the wires to make them easier to visualize. The HC05 Bluetooth module with a name beginning with "S" should be used for the robot. For example, the label will read something like "VORP S2944" (the number will differ). The one marked "M" will be used for the gamepad. Slide the HC05 into the side drawer as shown. When inserting, be careful not to pull out the wires, which will be a little tight. Work the wires into the little space provided so they stay clear of the robot's cap when it gets screwed on later.

<gallery mode=packed heights=250>
File:Insert-HC05-in-Caddy-1.jpg|Insert the HC05 into the side drawer of the Nano Caddy as shown.
File:Insert-HC05-in-Caddy-2.jpg|When fully inserted, the indicator light will still be visible through the small oval.
File:Insert-HC05-in-Caddy-3.jpg|The wires should be tucked into the little cavity near the pins of the HC05.
</gallery>

====STEP 10: Power up!====
Make sure the on/off switch is off, and the knob is turned to STOP. Attach the proper batteries (a 9v recharageable NIMH or LI-ON, and an 8.4 volt 4000 or more mAh NIMH with XT60 connector) and power on the robot using the on/off switch. You should hear a beep, a pause, then a second beep. The servos should all twitch into position. If the robot does not move at all, immediately turn the switch off and check your connections again. If some of the servos don't move then gently push them with power off to see if you can free them up. If they still won't move, try pushing them with power applied, but turn off the power within 30 seconds if they're locked up. If you can't get the servo to move it will need to be replaced.

[[File:Servo-Horn-Orientation.png|thumb|right|The servo horn should come straight out from the body at a 90 degree angle as shown here. Do not turn the servo shaft by hand until after it has moved under power!]]

====STEP 11: Insert Servo Horns====
The servo horns are all at random-ish angles right now. In this step we'll make them point in the right direction. The knee servos are not at 90 degrees when the knob is all the way counter clockwise, rather they are at a 30 degree standing angle.

We need to get them to 90 degrees so its easy to align the servo horn, and this is done by going into "Adjust Mode". Turn the knob very slightly clockwise until you hear a beep, then stop. After about one second you will see all the knee servos twitch. This is "adjust servo horn mode". All servos (knees and hips) are now at their halfway point, 90 degrees.

Now you need to take each single arm servo horn and carefully insert it on the shaft so that it is sticking straight out as shown in the figure. You will not always be able to make the horn come totally straight out. This is because there are only 22 little groves (splines) in each shaft, meaning you can in general only come within about 8 degrees of being at a perfect 90 degree angle. This amount of error is acceptable for now, just get it as close as you can. Later we'll use Trim Mode to make fine adjustments.

====STEP 12: Test Knee Positions====
Turn the knob fully counter clockwise (to STOP) and the robot will go into "stand still" mode. Place it on a level surface such as a table top. Do all of the legs touch the ground? If one or more legs don't touch the ground, you need to adjust the servo horn on the knee a little bit so it does touch. Gently pull off the servo bracket. Pull the servo horn off, and put it back on just a little bit moved so the leg would move closer to the ground. Put the servo bracket back on, and see how it looks. Do this until all legs are at least slightly touching the ground. Again, you can't necessarily be perfect due to the 8 degree increments the servo horns can be moved. But you should be able to be close enough that all legs at least slightly touch the ground.

====STEP 13: Insert Servo Screws====
Now that the legs are adjusted, you can insert the M3x12 screws (with M3 lock washers) into the servo horns to lock them in place. Note that you will NOT be using the screws that were in the little bag the servos came in, you'll be using the separate pack of screws, which are longer than the ones in the servo bag. Do not overtighten these screws, as you could possibly crack the servo brackets. Just turn the screws until you start to feel resistance, then turn a quarter turn more and stop.

====STEP 14: Test the Servos====
*'''STEP 14A: Using TST Mode'''
**To test whether every servo is working, put the robot on something that will lift its legs off the table top, but won't interfere with the legs (a small box or stack of books will work).
**Start with the knob on STOP, then slowly turn it clockwise. You'll hear one beep (Adjust mode), then a second beep (Test mode). Stop turning and the robot will go into "individual servo test mode". In this mode, every hip servo will move, one by one. When all the hips have moved, every leg will move, one by one. You should see every servo move, in order. If some don't move, check your connections. A common error is to plug a servo connector into the servo controller backwards (i.e. the brown wire is matched with the yellow pin instead of the black pin). If the servos do not move in a sensible order, that probably means you plugged a couple of servos into the wrong sockets in the electrical harness.

*'''STEP 14B: Test Using Demo Mode'''
**Ok, everything looks good, so time for a full test. Turn the knob to STOP, then put the robot on the floor, somewhere that has at least a few feet of room in each direction. (Caution: it's tempting to do this on a table top, but unless you have a huge table this is not advisable, Max will run pretty fast at some points during the demo.)
**Turn the knob to DEMO, and about one second later the robot will go through a series of movements to demonstrate some of the things it can do. The full demo only takes about 30 seconds, then repeats. Here, you are looking for the robot to, for example, be able to get back up off the floor after doing some of its dance moves.
**If the robot struggles to get off the floor, you may have a battery that is not fully charged, or there may be drips or other obstructions stopping some legs from moving fully. See the [[Vorpal Combat_Hexapod Troubleshooting Guide|Trouble Shooting Guide]] for more information about different kinds of issues that can occur. That guide was written for the small robot, but most of the things that can go wrong with the Gigapod are similar to the things that can go wrong with Vorpal The Hexapod.

====STEP 15: Store electronics and wires in the Base====
Carefully stow the caddies into the base, using any available convenient space. NOTE: Unlike the small hexapod and megapod, the Gigapod saves weight by not having any service access covers. This makes it look messier when the top is off, but the savings in weight was necessary to avoid servo stress.
<gallery mode=packed heights=250>
File:All-Electronics-Inserted-In-Base.jpg|Carefully stow the caddies into the base, being careful not to pull out any wires.
</gallery>

====STEP 16: Assemble the Cap====
*'''STEP 16A: Assemble the Four Cap Parts'''
**First assemble the three large pieces after removing the support coming out of the center. Be aware that there is a correct ordering to them, the two flaps that stick out near the bottom need to be opposite each other so the cap can slot into the Base and lock in place. Use #6-32 x 1 inch screws plus nylox locking nuts to secure the three parts together as shown. There are access holes around the rim that allow the hex key to reach the screws. Use nuts and locking washers to secure the screws.
**Secure the top of the cap onto the bottom three pieces using three 1 inch #6 socket screws and their associated nylox locking nuts.
<gallery mode=packed heights=250>
File:Cap-Exploded.JPG|Arrangement of the four Cap parts. Note that this diagram shows the support in place, this should actually be removed prior to assembly.
File:CAP-Assembly-order.JPG|Make sure the two flaps at the rim are opposite each other when ordering the three main parts.
</gallery>
* '''STEP 16B: Put Hook-and-loop on Cap''' Peel and stick on the "hook" side of a 1" piece of hook-and-loop on each flat circular decoration holder on the cap.
* '''STEP 16C: Decorate''' If desired, use a permanent marker to color the Vorpal "V" on top of the Cap. Oil markers work well. On light colors of plastic a black permanent marker will also work.
* '''STEP 16D: Put Cap on the Hexapod'''
**Screw the cap on the robot by lining up the tabs with the matching slots in the rim of the base. Turn the cap clockwise to lock it in place. IMPORTANT: Do not press down on the robot to insert the cap when the robot is under power standing on its legs! You can damage the leg motors by doing this. It is best to turn the robot off, and either support the bottom of the Base with one hand and press the Cap on with the other, or set the Base down on the table top or floor with legs out to the sides so they don't take pressure.
**If the cap is too loose and swivels while the robot moves, this can be fixed by putting a bit of tape on the cap's flaps to make them a little thicker. The tightness of the cap depends a lot on printer settings, over- or under-extrusion, etc.

====STEP 17: Warning Label====
There are self-stick choking hazard warning labels and also several pinch point warning labels in the hexapod parts bag. Peel the backing off one choking hazard lable and place it on the bottom of the robot, near the center. Retain the second label for the gamepad. The pinch point warnings should be placed around the body of the robot, above the legs, in visible positions. Depending on what kind of plastic you're using, they might or might not stick well. If they don't stick, use glue (such as cyanoacrilate "super glue" or even hot glue) to secure them. The warning labels are not optional! They are necessary for safety. The motors are powerful and can snap your fingers like a twig, or cause severe pinch injuries, sprains, or bruises.

==== Step 18: Trimming the Servos ====
When you assembled the servo horns onto the servos, you probably were not able to get them all to come out exactly at a 90 degree angle. That's not your fault: the servo horns only have 22 possible positions in which they can be installed, so at best you can come within plus or minus 8 degrees of perfection.

Now that you have the gamepad working, you can make fine adjustments to the servo positions using "Trim Mode". In this special gamepad mode, you can adjust all the servos to within a fraction of a degree. These adjustments are saved in the robot's EEPROM, which is memory on the Nano that retains data even when powered off. So, you only need to trim once.

Complete instructions on how to use trim mode are in the wiki page: [[Vorpal The Hexapod Trim Mode Guide]]. That guide was written for the smaller robot, but the instructions are identical for the Gigapod.

NOTE: although this step is optional, it is strongly recommended because your robot will walk straighter and all the servos will share equally in lifting the robot's weight, which will make them last longer.

====Step 19: Assembling Eye Decorations====
Peel and stick a piece of "loop" from the supplied hook and loop fasteners on the back of the two eye pieces. This allows you to stick the eyes on the Cap's matching "hook" areas.

NOTE: There are extra hook and loop circles included in your kit. You can create your own attachments, nameplates, etc. using these.

==Electrical Connections: Robot==

===NOTES ON JUMPER WIRES===

====Wire Lengths====
There are two different lengths of female-female Dupont jumper wires used to make most connections. The longer ones (20cm) are only used for the Hexapod's accessory port connections. The shorter ones are used for all the connections on the Gamepad and all the connections on the Hexapod between the Arduino Nano, Servo controller and Bluetooth module.

====Wire Color Conventions====

Please follow these conventions when selecting wire colors:
* For +5V, Vin, and similar positive voltage connections, use either RED or ORANGE.
* For GND and other negative electrical connections, use BLACK or BROWN.
* For the connectors that sit at the mouth of the accessory port (used for optional sensors) colors are suggested below in the instructions. By following these suggestions you will make your life easier when connecting sensors!
* For all other connections, you can use any color you want, it's arbitrary.

====If Jumper Wires Are Too Loose====
Sometimes you will find a wire whose connector does not grip the pin well enough. It might fall off very easily or just by gravity alone. If that happens, you have a few options:
* There are extra wires in your kit. If you find a wire that's too loose, just use a different wire.
* Using the hex key, you can put the jumper housing on a flat surface then press on the metal showing through the plastic connector, which will tighten up the jumper wire's grip. Don't go too overboard on pressing though or you might make it too hard to insert.
* Alternatively, you could use electrical tape after inserting all the wires on a module (such as the Nano) to effectively attach together all the little plastic female connector housings. In that way, the connectors that do grip will help hold in the ones that are too loose. Some people also like using hot glue for this purpose. (Personally, I don't like using hot glue, as it makes it harder to change connections if you hooked something up incorrectly.)

===NANO PIN CONNECTIONS===
[[File:Megapod-Nano-Connections-v1.JPG|thumb|600px|right|Diagram of Nano connections for the Hexapod. Jumpers marked AP are routed to the Accessory Port for use with add-ons like sensors. Click for larger image.]]
* ''Digital IO Pins:''
** D0, D1 are reserved because they are used for uploading programs to the robot, so nothing will be connected there.
** D2, D3 No connection.
** D4 Buzzer Signal (white wire)
** D5 through D13 No connection. These pins are reserved for future expansion.

* ''Analog Pins:''
** A0 Potentiometer signal (white wire)
** A1 Potentiometer Power (red wire)
** A2 Potentiometer Ground (black wire)
** A3 No connection.
** A4 Servo Controller SDA
** A5 Servo Controller SCL
** A6, A7 No connection.

* ''Power Pins:''
** +5V pin on Nano connects to any of the +5V RED wires coming from the BEC on the power distribution harness.
** GND pin on Nano connects to any of the GND BLACK wires coming from the BEC on the power distribution harness.

===Servo Driver Power Pins===
* Port 0 RED pin on the Servo Driver connects to any of the +5V RED wires coming from the BEC on the power distribution harness.
* Port 0 BLACK GND pin on the Servo Driver connects to any of the GND BLACK wires coming from the BEC on the power distribution harness.

=== Bluetooth Module Power ===
* +5V on HC05 connects to any RED Dupont connector coming off the BEC.
* GND on HC05 connects to any BLACK Dupont connector coming off the BEC.

=== Buzzer Power ===
* Plug the buzzer into the unused port 15 on the servo driver, making sure the red and black wires on the buzzer power match the red and black rows of pins on the servo driver.

=== Servo Driver ===
[[File:Megapod-ServoDriverConnections.jpg|thumb|600px|right|Diagram of Servo Controller pins you will use in this project. Each servo motor has a 3 wire connector that should be plugged into the corresponding servo number extension connector in the power distribution harness. The white wires coming out of the harness in groups of four should be connected to the yellow line or ports, matching the number ranges to port numbers. Note that the black and red rows of pins are not used, power is provided to the servos through the power distribution harness. Click for larger image.]]
* Connect the 12 servos to power distribution harness connectors marked with port numbers corresponding to the servo marking (0 to 11). Make sure the signal wire (yellow) is oriented correctly and matches the yellow plastic header pin.
* Connect the groups of four white wires which are marked with servo port numbers to the Servo Driver yellow pins, matching the Servo Driver pin number to the port numbers written on the 4-pin Dupont connectors coming out of the power distribution harness.
* Connect one of the +5V RED regulated BEC outputs to the RED port 0 pin of the Servo Driver. Connect one of the GND black pins coming out of the BEC to the BLACK port 0 GND pin on the Servo Driver.
* On one short side of the Servo Controller you will find a VCC and V+ pin right next to each other. Use a shunt (small black connector that goes over two pins) to connect those together if one is not already installed. Without this shunt the Servo Driver will not work.
* SDA and SCL go to A4 and A5 on the Nano, respectively.



== Building the Gamepad ==
The gamepad for Gidget the Gigapod is identical to the Gamepad for Vorpal The Hexapod (and also Max the Megapod).

Please see instructions on [[Vorpal_The_Hexapod_Building_Instructions#Building_the_Gamepadd|the Vorpal Hexapod Gamepad Assembly instructions]].

{{Gigapod Quick Links}}